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The University Library
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BIBLIOFORT1S binding

TRAOt MARK R°

OOOKEHV

1. What famous English college has
no undergraduates.

2. And of what college is the
mallard the sacred bird?

4. Did she really write “ First catch
your hare ”?

3. How do you visualise Mrs.
Beeton, of cookery fame — as
young, middle-aged, or elderly?

A T'l i A cVi a o 11 t r nrri+o “ TJlivof nn fnU

5. Who started the Boy’s Own
Paper?

sford.

Answers on Page 2.

3. She was only 28 when she died.

4 No. The author was Bracton in
1220—" And it is a common
saving that it is best first to
catch the stag, and afterwards,
when he has been caught, to
skin him.”

5. Samuel Orchart Beeton, Mrs.
Beeton’s husband.

“TIIE FREE) FAIR HOMES OF ENGLAND.

Mr*. Htmans

Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2015

https://archive.org/details/b21527799

THE BOOK

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT;

Comprising Information for tfje

MISTRESS,

HOUSEKEEPER,

COOK,

KITCHEN-MAID,

BUTLER,

EOOTMAN,

COACHMAN,

VALET,

UPPER AND UNDER
HOUSE-MAIDS,

lady’s-maid,

MAID-OE-ALL-WRK,

LAUNDRY-MAID,
NURSE AND NURSE-
MAID,

MONTHLY, WET, AND

< t-

SICK NURSES,

ETC. tTC.

ALSO, SANITARY, MEDICAL, & LEGAL MEMORANDA;

WITH A HISTORY OF THE ORIGIN, PROPERTIES, AND USES OF ALL THINGS
CONNECTED WITH HOME LIFE AND COMFORT.

BY MRS. ISABELLA BEETON.

Nothing lovelier can 15e found.

In Woman, than to study household good. — MiLTorr.

LONDON:

S. 0. BEETON, 24S, STRAND, W.C.
1861.

LONDON :

COX AND WYMAN, PRINTERS, GREAT QUEEN-STREET,

lincoln’s-inn fields.

UBMIf

U£M

PEEFACE.

I must frankly own, that if I had known, beforehand, that this
book would have cost me the labour which it has, I should never
have been courageous enough to commence it. "What moved
me, in the first instance, to attempt a work like this, was the
discomfort and suffering which I had seen brought upon men and
women by household mismanagement. I have always thought
that there is no more fruitful source of family discontent than
a housewife’s badly-cooked dinners and untidy ways. Men are
now so well served out of doors, — at then- clubs, well-ordered
taverns, and dining-houses, that in order to compete with the
attractions of these places, a mistress must he thoroughly
acquainted with the theory and practice of cookery, as well as
he perfectly conversant with all the other arts of making and
keeping a comfortable home.

In this book I have attempted to give, under the chapters
devoted to cookery, an intelligible arrangement to every recipe, a
list of the ingredients, a plain statement of the mode of preparing
each dish, and a careful estimate of its cost, the number of
people for whom it is sufficientj .and- the time when it is seasonable.
For the matter of the recipes', ~l^a!ih ’indebted, in some measure,
to many correspondents of the ‘“EngHshwoman’s Domestic Maga-
zine,” who have obligingly placed at., my disposal their formula;
for many original preparations. A "large private circle has also
rendered me considerable service. A diligent study of the works
of the best modem writers on cookery was also necessary to the
faithful fulfilment of my task. Friends in England, Scotland,
Ireland, France, and Germany, have also very materially aided
me. I have paid great attention to those recipes which come
under the head of “ Cold Meat Cookery.” But in the depart-
ment belonging to the Cook I have striven, too, to make my work
something more than a Cookery Book, and have, therefore, on the

PREFACE.

best authority that I could obtain, given an account of the natural
history of the animals and vegetables which we use as food. I
have followed the animal from his birth to his appearance on the
table ; have described the manner of feeding him, and of slaying
him, the position of his various joints, and, after giving the recipes,
have described the modes of carving Meat, Poultry, and Game.
Skilful artists have designed the numerous drawings which appear
in this work, and which illustrate, better than any description,
many important and interesting items. The coloured plates are a
novelty not without value.

Besides the great portion of the book which has especial
reference to the cook’s department, there are chapters devoted
to those of the other servants of the household, who have all, I
trust, their duties clearly assigned to them.

Towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters
on the “ Management of Children ” — “ The Doctor,” the latter
principally referring to accidents and emergencies, some of which
are certain to occur in the experience of every one of us ; and the
last chapter contains “ Legal Memoranda,” which will be service-
able in cases of doubt as to the proper course to be adopted in
the relations between Landlord and Tenant, Tax-gatherer and
Tax-payer, and Tradesman and Customer.

These chapters have been contributed by gentlemen fully en-
titled to confidence ; those on medical subjects by an experienced
surgeon, and the legal matter by a solicitor.

1 wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratulations
I have received during the progress of this work, and have only
further to add, that I trust the result of the four years’ incessant
labour which I have expended will not be altogether unacceptable
to some of my countrymen and countrywomen.

ISABELLA BEETOAL

GENERAL CONTENTS

crap

1. — THE MISTRESS •

2. — THE HOUSEKEEPER

3. — ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN

4. — INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY

5. — GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS

6. — RECIPES ••••••

7. — THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES

8. — RECIPES ....

9. — SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS. — GENERAL REMARKS

10. — RECIPES..

11. — VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT

12. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS

PAGE

105

115

177

179

257

269

13. — recipes. 277

14. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB 319

15. — RECIPES 331

16. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 361

17. — RECIPES 373

18. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF 401

19. — RECIPES '. 405

20. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS 437

21. — RECIPES 443

22. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME 507

23. — RECIPES 513

24. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES 543

25. — recipes «. 551

26. — OENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PASTRY 605

27. — RECIPES 612

28.— GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES, SOUFFLES, OMELETS,

AND SWEET DISHES 605

29 —RECIPES 697

vi GENERAL CONTENTS.

CUAP. ' PAGE

SO. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONFECTIONERY, ICES,

AND DESSERT DISHES 755

31. — RECIPES 762

32. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS ... 806

33. — RECIPES 811

34. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES 830

35. — RECIPES 838

36. — GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES 871

37. — RECIPES 875

38. — INVALID COOKERY 893

39. — recipes 894

40. — DINNERS AND DINING 905

41. — DOMESTIC SERVANTS 961

42. — THE REARING AND MANAGEMENT OF CHILDREN, AND DISEASES

OF INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD 1025

43. — THE DOCTOR 1061

44. — LEGAL MEMORANDA 1096

ERRATA.

Page 657, last line but one from bottom of page, for Sc?, read 8a

,, 121, first line, for “ one tablespoonful ” read “one small teaspoonful.”
,, 705, eleven lines from bottom, for 2s. read 3s. 6 d.

,, 707, twelfth line from bottom, for Is. 8 d. read 3s. 3d.

,, 715, eighth line from bottom, for Is. 6c?. read 2s.

,, 716, seven lines from top, for 2s. read 3s. 6c?.

,, 718, first lino from top, for 2s. read 4s. 6c/.-
„ 719, second lino from bottom, for 3s. read 4s. 6c/.

,, 720, eleventh line from bottom, for 2s. 3c/. read 8#. 6rf.

ANALYTICAL INDEX

— - *o

Note. — Where a “p” occurs before the number for reference, the page, and not
the paragraph, is to be sought.

Paragraph

Accidents, injuries, &c. remarks on 25/8

Apple, ginger . .

Paragraph
1424, 1516

Agreements

2/05-7

Jam.. . .

Alexanders

.. 1108

Jelly

1518-19

Alkalies . .

.. 2654

,, clear

Allium, the genus

.. 1129

„ or marmalade

.. 1395

Allspice

.. 438

Pudding, baked, rich . .

.. 1223

Almond, the . .

.. 1219

,, ,, more economical 1229

Bitter

.. 1220

„ „ very good

.. 1231

Cake

.. 1752

,, boiled ..

.. 1232

Cheesecakes

.. 1219

,, iced

.. 1290

Flowers

.. 1316

,, rich, sweet

.. 1230

Icing for cakes . .

.. 1/35

Sauce, brown

.. 364

Paste, for second-course

dishes 1220

,, for geese or pork

.. 363

Pudding, baked . .

.. 1221

Snow

Puddings, small . .

.. 1222

Snowballs . .

.. 1235

Puffs

.. 1223

Souffle

... 1402

Soup

. . 110

Soup

.. Ill

Tree

110, 1487

Tart, creamed

.. 1234

Uses of the Sweet

.. 1221

,, or pie

.. 1233

Almonds, and raisins

.. 1605

Tourte or cake . .

.. 1236

Husks of . .

.. 1222

Trifle

Anchovy, the ..

. . 226

Universally popular

.. 1236

Butter

Uses of the

1225-6

Butter or paste . .

.. 227

Apples, a la Portugaise

.. 1398

Paste

And rice

Sauce

„ ,, a pretty dish ..

Buttered . .

.. 1397

Toast

.. 228

.. 1390

Anchovies, fried

. . 226

Compote of

.. 1515

Potted

Dish of

.. 1603

Animals, period between birth and

Plane of

1391-2

maturity. .

.. 92

Ginger

Quality of the flesh of

.. 93-5

Iced

.. 1394

Saxon names of . .

. . 709

In red jelly

.. 1399

Tails of _ ,

.. 640*

Stewed, and custard

.. J 403

Tongues of

. . fi/5

To preserve

.. 1230

Apoplexy

2634-6

To preserve in quarters finiita-

Apple, the

.. Ill

tion of ginger) . .

.. 1520

Charlotte . .

Apprentices

Charlotte aux pommes

.. 1418

Apricot, cream..

.. 1405

»• M »»

method of making

an easy

Jam or marmalade

.. 1522

.. 1419

Pudding . .

.. 1238

Cheesecakes

.. 1226

Qualities of the . .

.. 1239
.. 1239
.. 1521

Constituents of the

.. 1229

Tart

Custard, baked ..

.. 1389

Apricots, compote of . .

Dumplings, baked

.. 1225

Plane of . .

„ boiled

.. 1227

Arrowroot, biscuits, or drops

.. 1738

fritters .. ..

.. 1393

Blancmange

.. 1407*

viii

TL1E BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Paragraph

Arrowroot., Manufacture of 38/, 1210
Pudding, baked or boiled .. 1240
Sauce for puddings .. .. 1356

To make 1855

What Miss Nightingale says of 1855

Arsenic 2656

Artichoke, composite or composite

flowers of 1080

Constituent properties of the . . 10S3

Jerusalem 1086

Uses of the 1084

Artichokes, a French mode of cooking 1 082

A l’ltalienne 1083

Fried 1081

Jerusalem, boiled .. .. 1084

,, mashed .. .. 1085

„ soup 112

,, with white sauce . . 1086

To boil 1080

Asparagus, ancient notion of .. 114

Boiled 1087

Island 1087

Medicinal uses of .. .. 10S8

Peas 1 088

Pudding 108g

Sauce 365

Soup 113-14

Aspic, or ornamental savoury jelly 366
Attestation to wills .. .. .. 2750

Bachelor’s omelet 1162

Pudding 1241

Bacon, boiled . . 804

Broiled rashers of . . . . 803

Curing of 822

„ and keeping it free from

rust .. .. 806-0

„ in the Devonshire way 821
„ in the Wiltshire way .. 803

Fried rashers of, and poached

eggs 802

Bain-Marie . . . . . . . . 430

Bakewell pudding, very rich . . 1242
Plainer .. .. .. .. 1243

Ball suppers pp. 957-8

Bandoline, to make 2255

Bantam, the 939

Barbel, the 22 9

To dress . . 229

Barberries, in bunches .. .. 1523

Barberry, description of the. . .. 1245

Tart 1245

Barley 116

Gruel 1856

Soup 116

Sugar 1524

Water, to make 1857

Baroness pudding 1244

Basil 173

Baths and fomentations, remarks on 2599

Cold 2603

Heat of 2600

W’arm and hot bath .. .. 260 1

Batter pudding, baked .. .. 1246

„ ,, with fruits 1247

,, boiled .. .. 1248

„ orange .. .. 1249

Paragraph

Bay or laurel, varieties of .. .. iso

Consecrated by priests . . .. 512

Bean, haricot, the 10

Beans, boiled, broad or Windsor . . 1 12
„ French .. ..1090

Broad, a la poulette . . . . 1093

French mode of cooking 1091

Haricots and minced onions . . 1121
„ blancs Ala malt re d’hdtel 1 1 20
„ blancs, or white haricots 1 1 19
„ and lentils .. .. 11 19

Nutritive properties of . . .. 1092

Origin and varieties of . . .. 1093

Bechamel, or French white sauce. . 267

Maigre, or without meat .. 368

Sauce 406

Beef, aitchbone of, boiled . . . . 607

,, to carve an p. 316

A la mode 601-2

Baked 598-9

Baron of 670

Bones, broiled 614

Brisket of, a la Flamande .. 649

„ to carve a .. p. 317
,, to stew.. .. .. 669

Broiled, and mushroom sauce. . 612

., oyster sauce .. 613

Cake 6io

Carving p. 316

Collared .. .. .. .. 617.

Collops 618

„ minced 619

Curried . . . . . . . . 620

Different seasons for .. .. 611

Dripping, to clarify .. 621-2

Fillet of roast, larded . , . . 623

French .. 649

Frenchman’s opinion of . . 626

Fricandeau of 624

Fried, salt 625

Fritters 627

Hashed 628-9

Hung, to prepare. . .. .. 6so

Hunter’s 631

Kidney, to dress . . .. 632-4

Marrow-bones boiled .. .. 635

Minced 636

Miriton of 637

Names of the several joints . . 597

Olives 630-1

Palates, to dress 653

Pickle for 654

Potted 642-3

Qualities of 599

Uagoflt of 656

Rib bones of 64 4

ltibs of, boned and rolled, roast

(joint for a small family) 658

„ roast 657

„ to carve .. p- 317

Rissoles 645

Roast 658

Rolled 646

Rolls 647

Round of, boiled 608

„ miniature .. .. 613

,, to carve a . . />. 318

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

Paragraph

Beef, round of, to pickle part of a . . 655

Rump of, stewed. . . . . . 670

4 ,, steak „ .. .. 656

Sausages 662

Seasons for 611

Shin of, stewed 671

Sirloin of, roast 659

„ „ to carve a p. 317

Sliced and broiled . . . . 664

Spiced (to serve cold) . . 665

Steak, a fried rump . . . . 626

„ and kidney pudding . . 605

„ ,, oyster sauce .. 603

„ broiled 61 1

„ pie . . . . . . 604

,, pudding, baked .. 600

,, rolled, roasted, and

stuffed. . . . . . 663

„ stewed, and celery sauce 667
,, ,, with oysters .. 66s

,, with fried potatoes .. 606

Tea, baked I860

„ savoury .. .. .. 1859

,, to make 1858

Tongue, boiled 673

„ pickle for .. .. 641

„ to carve a .. 71.31s

,, to cure a .. .. 674-5

,, to pickle and dress a,

to eat cold . . . . 676

To salt 660

,, Dutch way .. .. 661

Beef- tea, Dr. Christison on . . . . 1859

Miss Nightingale’s opinion of. . 1858

Beer, table 191

Beetroot.. .. 1094

Boiled .. .. .. .. 1094

Pickled 369

Benton sauce . . 370

Bequests, legacies, &c. . . 2741-9

Beverages, general observations
on.

. . 1789, 1806

for January

.. pp.

909-13

February

• a

914-17

March ..

• a

918-21

April . .

• a

922-25

May

• a

926-29

June ..

• »»

930-33

July . .

• a

934-36

August

• a

937-39

September

• a

940-42

October

• a

943-45

November

• a

946-18

December

• > f

949-52

ball supper for 60 per-

sons .. .. p. 957

ball supper, cold colla-
tion, for a summer
entertainment for 70
or 80 persons p. 958

breakfasts .. „ 959

game dinner for 30
persons . . p. 953

luncheons and slip-
pers .. .. 71. 959

menu, service it la
Kusse. .. pp. 954-5

Paragraph

Bills of fare, picnic for 40 persons 960
>> ,, suppers .. p. 956

Birds, general observations on 91 7-25

Biscuit powder. .

.. 1737

Biscuits, arrowroot . .

. .

.. 1738

Cocoa nut . .

.. 1/40

Crisp

.. 1711

Dessert

Lemon

.. 1743

Macaroons

.. 1744

Rata6as

.. 1745

Remarks on

1712-15

Rice..

.. 1746

Rock

.. 1747

Savoy

Seed. .

Simple, hard

.. 1750

Soda

Bites and stings, generalremarks on 2609

,, of insects

2610-11

,, of snakes

. .

.. 2612

Of dogs

.. 2613

Blackcock, heathcock, &c.

.. 1019

Roast

To carve a . .

Blancmange

Arrowroot . .

.. 1407

Cheap

.. 1409

Lemon

Rice. .

.. 1476

Bleeding, from the nose

.. 2607

Operation of

. .

2005-6

Blonde, to clean

.. 2265

Blood, spitting of

.. 2608

Boar’s head, importance of

the

.. 815

The Westphalian. .

.. 7 87

Bones, dislocation of . .

.. 2614

Fracture of

.. 2615

Bonnets . .

Books of account

.. 2731

Boots, polish for

2240-1

Bottled fresh fruit

1542-3

,, with sugar

.. 1544

Boudin, a la reine

. . 961

Brain, concussion of, stunning

.. 2623

Brandy, cherry

. .

.. 1526

I.emon

Orange

, ,

.. 1826

Varieties of

.. 1328

Bread, and bread-making

, ,

1668-1703

And-butter fritters

.. 1410

,, pudding

.. 1255

Crumbs, fried

.. 424

Fried for borders. .

. . 426

Indian-com-flour

.. 1721

Making in Spain . .

.. 1776

Origin of . .

Properties of

.. 1252

Pudding, baked . .

.. 1250

,, boiled . .

. .

.. 1252

„ brown . .

. .

.. 1253

„ miniature

.. 1254

„ very plain

.. l-'l

Rice

. .

.. 1/20

Sauce

.. 371-2

Sippets of, fried . .

.. 425

Soda

THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Paragraph

Bread, soup 117

To make a peck of good . . 1719
,, good home-made .. 1718
„ yeast for .. .. 1716

Breakfasts .. p. 959, par. 2144-6
Breath, shortness of, or difficult

breathing 2670

Bride-cake, rich 1753

Bridles 2218

Brill, the 230

To carve a.. .. .. pp. 175-6

Brilla soup 166

Brocoli, boiled 1095

Broth, calt’s-foot .. .. .. 1862

Chicken 1863

Eel.. 1866

Mutton to make 1872

,, quickly made .. ..1873

Brown roux for thickening gravies 525
Browning, for sauces and gravies . . 373

For stock 108

Bruises, lacerations, and cuts .. 2617
Treatment of .. .. . . 26 18

Brushes, to wash 2250

Brussels sprouts, boiled .. .. 1096

Bubble-and-squeak 616

Bollock’s heart, to dress a .. .. 615

Buns, light 1731

Plain 1729

To make good plain .. .. 1730

Victoria .. .. .. .. 1732

Burns and scalds .. .. .. 2619

Treatment of the first class of . . 2620
,, second class . . 2621

,, third class .. 2622

Butler, care of plate and house . . 2162
Duties of the. at breakfast,
luncheon, dinner, and des- -

sert 2157-9

„ in the drawing-room .. 2161
Lights, attention to .. .. 2160

Wine, bottling .. .. 2167-70

„ cellar .. .. 2163-5

,, fining .. .. .. 2166

Butter, anchovy .. .. 227, 1637

Antiquity of . . . . . . 1205

Beurre noir, or brown butter (a
French sauce) . . " . . . . 374

Clarified 375

Colouring of 1636

Curled 1635

Easily digested 1255

Fairy 1636

General observations on 1616-19

How to keep 1635

„ ,, fresh .. .. 1207

In haste .. .. 1206

Maitre d’hOtel .. .. .. 465

Melted 376-7

,, (the French sauce blanche) 378
,, made with milk . . 380

Mo-'ds for moulding fresh but-
ter .. 1634

Thickened 379

To keep and choose, fresh .. 1632
,, preserve and to choose, salt 1633

What to do with rancid. . .. 1208

Cabbage, the . .

Boiled

Colewort, or wild
Green kale, or borecole
Kohl-Rabi, or turnip
Qualities of the . .

Red, pickled
„ stewed

Savoy, and Brussels sprouts
„ description of the
Soup

Tribe and their origin . .
Turnip tops and greens. .
Cabinet, or chancellor’s pudding . .
Plain, or boiled bread-and-but-
ter pudding
Cafe au lait

Noir

Cake, almond . .

Breakfast, nice . .

Bride or Christening

Paragraph

118

1098
1099
10 97

1095
1169

498

1099

1096
140
118

1098

1169

1256

1257
1812
1813

1752
1739

1 753

Christmas . .

Cocoa-nut

Economical

Good holiday

Honey

Lemon

Luncheon . .

Nice useful

Pavini

Plain

„ for children
Plum, common . .

,, nice
Pound
Queen

Rice

Saucer, for tea . .

Savoy

Scrap

Seed, common . .
„ very good . .

1746,

1754

1740

1756

1763

1758

1764

1765

1757

1771

1766

1767

1768

1769

1770

1773

1772

1774
1782

1779

1775

1776

Snow 1777-8

Soda 178I

Sponge .. .. .. 1783-4

,, Small, to make. . .. 1785

Tea 1786

„ to toast 1787

Tipsy 1487

„ an easy way of making . . 1488

Yeast 1788

Cakes.hintsonmakingandbaking 1701-1 1

Calf, the 173

Birth of the .. .. .. 893

Breeding of the 858

Fattening the 903

Feeding a 862

General observations on the 845-53

In America 864

Names of the 899

Symbol of Divine power . . 890

The golden 873

When it should be killed . . 860

CalPs feet, baked or stewed. . . . 1861

,, boiled with parsley and

butter .. .. .. 860

,, broth 1862

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

Paragraph

Calfs feet, fricasseed 861

, , jelly ..1416

Head, k la Maitre d’hOtel . . 804

„ boiled .. .. 876-7

„ collared 862

„ club 8»7

„ fricasseed .. .. 863

,, hashed 878

„ soup 167

,, to carve a . . .. 9 1 3

Liver and bacon . . .. .. 881

„ aux fines herbes . . . . 880

,, larded and roasted . . 882

Udder, for French forcemeats. . 421

Calomel .. .. 2658

Camp- vinegar 381

Canary-pudding .. .. .. 1258

Candlesticks 2311

Cannelons, or fried puffs . . . . 1417

Caper-sauce, for boiled mutton . . 382

For fish . . 383

Substitute for .. ... .. 384

Capercalzie, the .. .. .. 1026

Capers 383

Capsicums, pickled .. .. .. 385

Carbonate of soda .. .. .. 1 765

Carp, the 242

Age of the 243

Baked . . 242

Stewed 243

Carpet sweeping 2312

Carriages . . . . . . 2225-9

Carrot, the 121

Constituents of the .. .. 1101

Jam, to imitate apricot preserve 1525
Nutritive properties of the . . 1102
Origin of the .. .. .. 1100

Pudding, boiled or baked .. 1259

Seed of the 1103

Soup 120-1

Varieties of the 1172

Carrots, boiled 1100

Sliced ..1103

Stewed 1102

To dress in the German way ,. 1101

Carving, beef p. 316

„ aitchbone of .. p. 316
„ brisket of .. p. 317

„ ribs of . . .> p. 317

„ round of .. p. 318

„ sirloin of .. p. 317

Blackcock., .. .. .. 1054

Brill pp. 175-6

Calf’s head 913

Codfish .. ... .. p. 174

Duck 999

„ wild 1056

Fowl 1000-1

Goose 1002

Grouse 1058

Ham 843

Hare 1056

Lamb 764-5

Landrail 1063

Mutton, haunch of . . . . 709

» leg of 760

„ loin of 761

Paragraph

Carving, mutton, saddle of . . . . 762

,, shoulder of .. .. 763

Partridge 1057

Pheasant 1059

Pigeon .. .. .. .. 1003

Plover 1066

Pork 842

,, leg of 844

Ptarmigan .. .. .. ..1064

Quail .. .. .. .. 1065

Rabbit 1004

Salmon .. .. .. p ■ 175

Snipe .. .. .. .. 1060

Soles p. 175

Sucking-pig 842

Teal 1067

Tongue p. 318

Turbot .. ... .. p. 175

Turkey 1005

Veal 854

,, breast of 912

„ fillet of 914

,, knuckle of 915

„ loin of 916

Venison, haunch of .. .. 1061

Widgeon .. .. .. .. 1068

Woodcock.. .. .. .. 1062

Cauliflower, description of the . . 1105
Properties of the . . .. .. 1151

Cauliflowers, & la sauce blanche .. 1105

Boiled 1104

With Parmesan cheese . . .. 1106

Cayenne, varieties of . . . . . . 362

Vinegar or essence of cayenne 386

Celery, indigenous to Britain .. 122

Origin of .. 1109

Sauce for boiled turkey, poultry,

&c 387

„ (a more simple recipe) 388

Soup 122

Stewed 1110

,, il la crfime .. .. 1108

„ with white sauce 1109-10

To dress 11 07

Various uses of .. .. 441,1107

Vinegar . . . . . . . . 389

Champagne .. .. ,. .. 1832

Cup 1832

Chanticleer and his companions . . 947

Chantilly soup 123

Char, the 243

Charlotte apple, very simple .. 1420

Aux pommes, an easy method
of making .. .. 1418-19

Russe .. .. .. 1421

Cheese 1638

Cayenne 1642

Cream 1641

Damson 1536

Decomposed 1638

Fondue 1643

,, Brillat Savarin’s .. 1614

General observations on 1 620-2

Macaroni, as usually served

with 1615-7

Mode of serving 1610

Porit .■ 799

h 2

THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

X.l

Paragraph

Cheese, pounded 1648

Raisin 1587

Ranmkins, to serve with 1649-50

Sandwiches 1641

Scotch rarebit 1 Os I

Smoking 1640

Stilton .. .. .. .. 1639

Toasted, or Scotch rarebit .. 1651

,, Welsh „ .. 1652

Cheesecakes, almond 1219

Apple . . .. .. .. 1226

Lemon . . 1 292

Cherokee or store sauce . . . . 528

Cherries, dried 1527

Morello, to preserve .. .. 1561

To preserve in syrup .. .. 1529

Cherry, brandy 1526 j

Jam .. .. 1528 j

Sauce for sweet puddings . . 1357

Tart 1261

Tree in Rome 1561

Varieties of the .. .. ..1261

Chervil, peculiarities of . . . . 1 29

Chestnut sauce, brown . . . . 391

,, for fowls or turkey 390

Spanish, soup .. .. .. 124

Uses of the 124

Chicken, boiled .. .. .. 938

Broth .. .. .. .. 1863

Curried . . . . . . . . 942

Cutlets . . . . . . . . 926

,, French 927

Fricasseed 945

Or fowl patties 928

„ pie 029

Potted . . . . . . . . 930

Pox, or glass-pox. . . . 2538-42

Salad 931

Chickens, age and flavour of . . 931

Chili vinegar . . 393

China chilo .. 712

Chocolate, box of 1602

Cream 1430

History of 180 7

Souffle 1427

To make .. .. .. .. 1807

Cholera, and autumnal complaints 2621

Christmas, cake .. .. .. 1754

Pium-pudding, very good .. 1328

Pudding, plain, for children . . 1327

Christopher North's sauce for game

or meat 304

Chub, the . . . . . . . 243

Churning . . 2365

Churns . . . . 2362

Cleaning the 2368

Cinnamon-tree, the 524

Citron, uses of the 1329

Varieties of the 1436

Claret cup 1S31

Varieties of 1831

Cleanings, periodical . . 2326-9

Cleanliness, advantages of . . .. 2689

Clothes, cleaning 2239

Clove, derivation of the name . . 436

Tree 367

Coach- house and stables .. .. 2204

• Paragraph

Coach-house and stables, furniture

of the 2209

Harness-room 2208

Heat of stables 2205

Horse, the 2203

Stalls 2207

Ventilation of stables . . . . 2205

Coachman, carriages.. .. 2225-9

Choosing horses 2231

Driving 2232

Duties of the 2210

Pace of driving 2230

Whip, the 2233

Cock-a-Leekie 134

Cocoa and chocolate, various uses of 1807

To make 1816

Cocoa-nut, the 125

Cakes or biscuits 1740

Soup 125

Cod, fecundity of the 241

Food of the . . . . . . 237

Habitat of the 239

Method of preserving . . . . 233

Season for fishing for the . . 240

Sounds ", 234

Tribe, the 231

Codfish, the 231

A la Bechamel 239

,, creme. . .. .. .. 238

A l’ltalienne .. .. .. 241

A la maitre d’hdtel . . . . 24-j

Curried 237

Head and shoulders of . . . . 232

,, ,, to carve p. 174

Pic 235-6

Preserving.. 233

Salt, (commonly called salt fish) 233

Sounds 233

„ en poule 234

To choose 232

Coffee, Cafe au lait .. .. .. 1812

Cafe noir 1813

Essence of 1808

Miss Nightingale’s opinion on 186s

Nutritious .. 1864

Plaut :. 1611

Simple method of making . . 1811

To make 1810

,, roast 1809

Cold-meat cookery : —

Beef, baked . . . . 598-9

,, bones, broiled .. .. 614

,, broiled, and mushroom

sauce 612

„ „ oyster sauce 613

,, bubble-and-squeak .. 6l(i

,, cake 610

,, curried 620

„ fried salt 62'

„ fritters .. 627

„ hashed . . . . 628-9

,, minced 636

,, miritonof.. .. •• 637

,, olives 651

,, potted 643

„ ragout 656

,, rissoles 645

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

xin

Paragraph

Cold-meat cookery : —

Beef) rolls 647

,, sliced and broiled .. 664

,, stewed, and celery sauce 66/

,, „ with oysters .. 668

Calf’s head, a la maitre d’hOtel 864

„ fricasseed .. .. 863

,, hashed .. .. 8/8

Chicken, cutlets 937

,, or fowl patties .. 928

„ „ potted .. 930

,, ,, salad.. .. 931

Duck, hashed 932

„ stewed and peas . . . . 935-6

„ „ turnips .. .. 937

,, wild, hashed .. .. 1010

,, „ ragout of .. .. 1021

Fish, and oyster pie . . . . 257

„ cake . . . . . . . . 258

„ cod, a la Bdchamel . . 23g

,, „ a la crftme .. .. 238

,, „ curried .. .. 237

„ „ pie .. .. 235-6

,, salmon, curried .. .. 305

,, scallop .. .. 350-1

,, turbot, a la erfeme .. 341

,, ,, augratin.. .. 342

,, „ fillets of, baked .. 339

„ „ ,, itl’Italienne 340

Fowl, a la Mayonnaise . . . . 962

„ boudin, h la Reine . . 961

,, croquettes of

953-4

, , fricasseed . .

. 946

,, fried

947-8

,, hashed

. 955

,, ,, Indian fashion .

- 957

„ Indian dish of

- 959

„ ir.inced

,. 956

„ „ a la Bechamel .

,. 950

,, or chicken, curried

. 942

„ ragout

.. 951

„ scollops

.. 658

„ saute, with peas . .

.. 960

Game, hashed

. 1023

Goose, hashed

.. 967

Hare, broiled

.. 1029

,, hashed

.. 1030

Lamb, hashed, and broiled

bladebone

.. 749

Mutton, baked minced . .

. . 703

,, broiled and tomato sauce 710

„ collops . .

.. 731

„ curried . .

.. 713

,, cutlets ..

.. 714

„ dormers

.. 715

„ haricot . .

. . 718

„ hashed . .

.. 719

,, hodge-podge ..

.. 720

„ pie

. . 73.3

„ ragout of neck

. . 736

„ toad-in-hole . .

. . 743

Pork, cheese

.. 796

,, cutlets

.. 796

,, hashed

.. 801

Turkey, croquettes of ..

.. 987

„ fricasseed

.. 988

„ hashed ..

.. 989

Paragraph

Cold-meat cookery

Veal, baked

856

,, cake

859

,, collops, Scotch

870-1

,, curried

805

,, fillet of, au Bechamel

883

,, loin of, au Bechamel

S87

„ minced

889-92

,, olive pie

895

„ patties, fried

895

„ ragout of . .

900

„ rissoles

Q01

,, rolls

902

„ tCte de veau en tortue

911

Venison, hashed . .

1050

Cold, to cure a

2625

On the chest

2625

College pudding

1263

Collops, cooking

8/1

Scotch

870

Scotch white

87 1

Combs, to clean

2251

Compote of, Apples . .

1515

Apricots . .

1521

Damsons . .

1537

Figs, green

15-11

Gooseberries

1546

Greengages

1551

Oranges

1505

Peaches

1572

Compotes, to make syrup for

1512

Confectionary, general observations
on

1508

Consomme, or white stock for many
sauces

395

Constructive notices . .

2699

Convulsions or fits

19-22

Cook, duties of the cook, kitchen,
and scullery-maids . .

Early rising

First duty of the . .

General directions to the

duties of the . .

82*4

Cookery, cleanliness of utensils
used in

Excellence in the art of

Explanation of French terms
used in

Introduction to . .

Measures used in

Copper

2659

Coriander plant, the . .

174

Corks, with wooden tops . .

446

Corrosive sublimate . .

2657

Cow, cheese

Ileel, fried

1652

639

,, stock for jellies

1412

Pox, or vaccination

2543-6

,, or variola . .

906

Cows, cost of keep for

2370

Cowslip wine . .

1 SI 7

Crab, hot

245

Sauce, for fish

396

To dress

244

Tribe, the . .

245

Crape, to make old look like new . .

2277

Crayfish, the . . ...

246

XIV

THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Paragraph

Crayfish, how preserved . . . . 193

Potted 247

Soup 193

Cream, i la Valois 1422

Apricot .. .. .. .. 1405

Chocolate . 1430

Devonshire 1630

Ginger 1432

Italian 1437

Lemon 1443

„ economical .. .. 1444

,, or custards .. .. 1446

„ very good 1445

Noyeau 1452

Orange, Sevil’e 1464

„ sweet 1463

Peculiarities of 1385

Raspberry 1475

Sauce for fish or white dishes. . 397

Stone, of tous les mois . . . . 1483

Swiss .. 1485

To make ice fruit. . .. .. 1555

Vanilla 1490

Whipped .. 1492

Creams, general observations on . . 1385

Croquettes of, fowl . . . . 953-4

Rice 1477

Croup 2568

Symptoms of 2569

Treatment of .. .. 2570-3

Crumpets 1728

Crust, butter, for boiled puddings. . 1213

Common, for raised pies .. 121 7

Dripping, for kitchen puddings

and pies .. 1214

For fruit tarts, very good . . 1210

Lard or flead .. .. ..1218

Pate brisee, or French, for raised

pies 1216

Short, common .. .. .. 1212

,, good 1211

Suet, for pies and pudddings .. 1215

Cucumber, antiquity of the.. 127, 402

Chate 1114

Geographical distribution of the 1111

Indigestible 1152

Properties and uses of the . . 1113

Sauce . . 398

,, white 400

Soup 127

Vinegar (a very nice addition to

salads) 401

Cucumbers, a la poulette .. .. 1112

Fried .. 1113

For winter use . . . . . . 4*2

Pickled .. 399

Preserving (an excellent way). .
Stewed

„ with onions

To dress

Curds and whey

Currant, dumplings

Fritters

Jam, black

» red

Jelly, blick

„ red

403

1114

1115
1111
1629
1264
1429

1530

1532

1531

1533

Paragraph

Currant, jelly, white 1534

Pudding, black or red .. .. 1266

„ boiled 1265

Red, and raspberry tart.. .. 1267

Currants, iced .. .. .. .. 1558

Uses of 1266

Zante, description of . . . . 1261

Curry powder 419

Custard, apple, baked .. ..1389

Boiled 1423

Creams, or lemon .. .. 1446

Pudding, baked .. .. .. 1268

„ boiled 1269

Sauceforsweetpuddingsortarts 404
Tartlets, or Fanchonncltes .. 1315

Cutlets, chicken 926

,, French .. .. g27

Invalid’s 1865

Lamb .. 747

Mutton 732

,, Italian 723

„ of cold 714

Pheasant 1040

Pork 796-8

Salmon 306

Sauce for 513

Veal 866

,, 1 la Maintenon . . . . 868

„ broiled 867

Cygnet, the 998

Dace, the .. .. .. ., 243

Dairy, the 2358

Butter, colouring of .. .. 2366

„ milk .. .. .. 2368

„ washing 2367

Churning 2365

Chums 2362

Cleaning the churn, &c. . . 2368

Cows, cost of keep for . . . . 2370

Devonshire system .. .. 2369

Hair sieve 2360

Maid, charge of dairy produce 2371
,, duties of the .. .. 2357

Milk, dishes 2361

„ general management of 2364

,, pails 2369

Situation of the 2363

Dampfnudeln, or German puddings 1280

Damson, the 1270

A very nice preserve .. .. 1539

Cheese 1536

Jam 1538

Pudding 1271

Tart 1270

Damsons, baked for winter use .. 1535
Compote of .. .. • ■ 1537

To preserve, or any other kind

of plums. . 1540

Darioles, il la vanille 1428

Date, the U>05

Debts -• •• 2/55

Estate chargeable with . . .. 2748

Decanters, to clean .. .. 2198, 2336

Deer, the i°49

Fallow 1650

Roebuck 1051

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

Paragraph

Deer, stag

.. .. 1051

Delhi pudding . .

.. 1272

Dentition

Dessert, biscuits

..1742

Dishes

.. 1598

, , general remarks on . . 1509

Devonshire, cream

.. ... 1630

Junket

Diarrhoea

2574-7

Dilapidations . .

Dinners, and dining . .

.. 1879-86

A la Busse

2 13/ -8

„ menu

p. 955

, , menu . . fj

Bills of fare for, from 6 to 18

persons, from January to
December . . . . pp. 909-52

Bills of fare for game, for 30

persons p. 953

Bills of fare for plain family pp. 913,
917, 921, 925, 929, 933, 936,
939, 912, 945, 948, 952

Diseases of infancy and childhood 2509-77
Dishes, a hundred different . . . . 434

Domestics, general remarks on 2153-6

Dormers.. .. 715

Downs, the 725

Draught, for summer. . .. .. 1837

Dress and dressing of infants 2491-6

Drink for warm weather, pleasant. . 1836

Dripping, to clarify .. .. 621-2

Driving 2232-3

Drowning, treatment after . . . . 2676

Duck, the 932

American mode of capturing the 936
Aylesbury . . . . . . . . 935

Bow-bill 936

Buenos Ayres 933

Eggs of the .. .. 934, 1658

Fattening 936

Hashed 932

Hatching . . . . . . , . 935

Man and dog, decoy . . . . 937

Boast . . g34

„ to carve a . . . . . . 999

Kouen g.34

Snares in Lincolnshire . . . . 937

Stewed, and peas. . . . 935-6

„ and turnips . . . . g.37

To ragout a whole .. .. g33

Varieties of the .. .. .. 933

Wild, the .. .. 931, 937, 1022

,, hashed 1020

„ ragout of .. •• ..1021

,, roast 1022

,, to carve a 1055

Ducklings, cooping and feeding . . 935

Dumplings, baked apple .. .. 1225

Boiled apple 1227

Currant 1264

Lemon .. .. ,, ,, 1294

Marrow 1306

Sussex, or hard 1 376

Yeast

Dnsting . . ## 2313

Dutch flummery 1426

Sauce, for fish 405

,, Green, orHollandaiseverte 406

Paragraph

Eel, broth 1866

Haunts of the 254

Pie 253

Productiveness of the . . . . 252

Soup 194

Tenacity of life of the . . . . 256

The common . . . . . . 250

Tribe, the 249

Voracity of the .. .. .. 255

Eels, a la Tartare 255

Boiled .. .. .. .. 249

Collared 254

En matelote 256

Fried . . . . . . . . 252

Stewed .. .. .. 250-1

Egg, balls for soups and made dishes 408
Sauce for salt fish .. .. 409

Soup . . . . . . . . 128

Wine 1867

Eggs, a la maitre d’hdtel .. .. 1660

A la tripe .. .. .. .. 1667

Boiled for breakfast, salads, &c. 1656
Buttered .. .. .. .. 1657

Ducks’ 1658

For hatching . . . . 927-28

Fried .. 1659

General remarks on .. 1623-6

Liaison of, for thickening sauces 461
GSufs au plat, or au miroir . . 1661
Plovers’ .. .. .. . 1062

Poached 1 663

,, with cream .. .. 1664

Primitive method of cooking . . 1658

Quality of 1654-5

Scotch .. .. .. .. 1666

Snow, or oeufs Ma neige .. 1482

To choose 1654

,, keep fresh for several weeks 1655

„ pickle 407

Veneration for .. .. .. 1659

White of 1387

Will crack if dropped in boiling

water 1 656

Elderberry wine 1818

Emetic, tartar 2660

Empress pudding 1273

Endive, a la Franeaise .. .. 1 1 1 8

Genus of . . .. . . ..1116

Plant .. .. .. .. 169

Stewed . . . . . . ..1117

To dress hj6

Entree, beef or rump steak, stewed 666
Beef, minced collops .. .. 619

Boudin it la reine .. .. g6l

Calf ’8 head, fricasseed . . . . 863

„ liver, larded and roasted 882
Chicken and rice croquettes 953-4

„ cutlets 926

„ or fowl, fricasseed . . 945

Fowl, hashed 955

„ saute with peas . . . . 960

Lamb, cutlets . . . . . . 747

,, sweetbreads and asparagus 757

„ >> another way

•> ,, to dress . . 758

Lark pie 971

Lobster-curry 274

XVI

THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Paragraph

Entree, lobster cutlets . . . . 275

,, patties .. .. 277

Oyster patties 283

Sweetbreads, baked . . . . 906

,, fried .. .. 907

,, stewed .. .. 908

Yeal cutlets 866

,, ,, a )a Maintenon .. 8S8

,, ,, broiled .. .. 8fi7

„ collops 879

„ fricandeau of . . . . 874-5

„ tendons de veau .. 909-10

,, tfite de veau .. .. 911

Vol au vent .. .. .. 1 379

Epaulettes of gold or silver . . . . 2287

Epicurean sauce .. .. .. 410

Espagnole, or brown Spanish sauce 4 1 1

Everton toffee 1597

Exeter pudding 1274

Eye, lime in the 2629

Sore 2628

Stye in the. . . . . . . . 2630

Substances in the .. .. 2627

Eyelids, inflammation of the .. 2631

or custard tartlets

Fairy butter
Fanchonnettes
Fasting ..

Feathers. .

Fennel . .

Sauce for mackerel

Fig pudding

Figs, green, compote of
Fish, addendum and anecdote of
And oyster pie
As an article of human food
Average prices
Cake

General directions for carving p. 174-6
,, ,, dressing 219-25

,, rule in choosing .. 226

In season January to December

pp. 33-7

Kettle 338

Fie with tench and eels . . 349

Sauce 413, 512

. 1636

1315
. 2632
. 2281
. 412

. 412

. 1275
. 1541
p. 173
. 257

211-18
. 226
258

Scallop 350-1

Soup 192

Stock 192

Supply of, for the London market 363
To smoke at home . . . . 820

Fishes, natural history of .. 199-210

Fits 2633

Apoplexy 2634-6

and drunkenness, dis-

tinctionsbelween 2638
,, epilepsy, distinc-
tions between . . 2637
„ hysterics, distinc-
tions between . . 2639
„ poisoning by
opium, distinc-
tions between . . 2610

Epilepsy 2611

Fainting 2612

Hysterics .. 2643

The consequence of dentition 2519-22

Fixtures

Paragraph
.. 2713

Fleece, the golden

.. 715

Floorcloth, to clean . .

.. 2335

Flounder, the

.. 259

Flounders, boiled

.. 259

Fried

.. 260

Flour, nutritious qualities of

.. 1218

Flowers, to preserve cut

.. 2289

„ ,, after packing. . 2290

Flummery', Dutch

.. 1426

Fomentations

2602-3

Fondue, Brillat Savarin’s . .

.. 1644

To make . .

.. 1643

Food for infants, and its preparation

2499, 2508

Footgear 2245

Footman, boot-cleaning .. .. 2174

Boot tops 2176

Breakfast, laying cloth, &c. 2181-3

Brushing clothes 2180

Decanters 2198

Dinner 2185-6

Dinners a la Russe .. .. 2188

Dress and livery 2172

During dinner .. .. .. 2191

Early rising 2173

Furniture-rubbing .. .. 2179

General duties 2171

Glass-washing .. .. 2197-8

Going out with the carriage . . 2199

Knives .. 2177

Lamp-trimming 2178

Letters and messages . . . . 2200

Luncheon, duties at .. .. 2184

Management of work . . . . 2196

Manners, modesty, &c. .. 21 90

Opening wine 2192

Pantry .. 2195

Patent leather boots .. .. 2175

Politeness.. .. .. .. 2201

Receptions and evening parties 2202

Removal of dishes . . . . 2193

Salt-cellars 2187

Tea 2194

Waiting at table 2189

Where a valet is not kept . . 2182

Forcemeat, balls for flsli soups .. 414

Boiled calf’s udder for French 421

For baked pike 418

„ cold savoury pies .. .. 415

„ various kinds of flsli .. 4 1 6

,, veal, turkeys, fowls, hare, &c. 417

French 419-20

Or quenelles, for turtle soup,
Soyer’s receipt for . . . . 423

Oyster 489

Fowl, a la Mayonnaise . . . . 962

And rice croquettes . . . . 953

Boiled .. .. •• 938

,, a la Bechamel . . . . 943

„ to carve 1000

„ with oysters .. .. 944

,, „ rice .. .. 940

Boudin il la rcine 96 1

Broiled and mushroom sauce . . 939

Croquettes. . 954

Curried 941-2

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

xvii

Paragraph

945-6

Fowl, fricasseed

Fried .. .. ..

Hashed

„ an Indian disli . .

House, the

„ stocking the ..

Indian dish of

Minced

,, il la BtSchamel ..

Pillau

Poulet aux cressons
„ it la Marengo

Ragout of

Roast

,, stuffed
„ to carve a . .

Sautd, witlt peas . .

Scallops

To bone for fricassees . .

Fowls, it la Marengo . .

As food

Bantam

„ feather-logged..

Best to fatten
„ way to fatten
Black Spanish
Characteristics of health

power

Chip in

Cochin China
Common, or domestic . .
Diseases of, and how to cure

Dorking

Eggs for hatching
Feeding and cooping . .

Game

Guinea

Hatching . .

Moulting season, the . .
Obstruction of the crop
Pencilled Hamburg

Poland

Scour, or Dysentery in . .

Serai Ta-ook, or fowls of the

Sultan

Sir John Sebright’s bantams
Sitting

Skin disease in . .

Space for

Speckled Hamburg
“Turn” in

Various modes of fattening

Young

Freezing apparatus, method
working the . .

French terms used in cookery

Fritters, apple

Beef

Bread-and-butter . .
Currant

Indian
Orange
Peach
Pineapple
Plain
Potato
Rice . .

9-17-8

955

957
944
94'

959
056

950
963

961
9-19

951

952
963

1001

960
95 B
995

949
926

939

958

951

950

962

9-lfi

953

942
926

952

940

927

930

938

970

928

956
955
965

941

957

963

961
927

953

943
9M)

954
948
929

1290

1393
627
1410
1429
1 135
1463
1469

1472

1473

1474
1478

Paragraph

Fruit, dish of mixed 1 60 1

„ summer . . . . 1 60 1

Fresh to bottle .. .. 1842-3

lee creams, to make .. .. 1555

In season, January to December

!>/>■ 33-7

Spots, to roraovo 2270

To bottle with sugar .. .. 1544

Turnovers 1278

Water ices, to make .. .. 155(i

Fuel . . . . . . . . • . 73

Fungi, analysis of 1128

Varieties of .. .. ..1124

Furniture cleaning .. .. 2307,2313

Gloss, German 2339

Polish 2308-9

Furs, feathers, and woollens . . 2284

Game, general observations on 1006-18

Hashed 1023

In season, January to December

pp. 33-7

Garlic 392

Geneva wafers 1431

Genevese sauce .. .. .. 427

German pudding 1279

„ or Dampfuudeln . . 1280
Gherkins, or young cucumbers .. 428

Pickled 428

Giblct pic 966

Soup .. 168

Gilt frames, to brighten . . . . 2337

Ginger, apples 1424

Beer 1833

Cream 1432

Preserved 1 432

Pudding 1281

Qualities of 407

Wine 1819

Gingerbread, nuts, rich sweetmeat 1769
„ Sunderland .. l“6l

Thick 1760

White 1762

Glaize, cold joints to 430

For covering cold hams,

tongues, &c 430

Kettle 430

Godfrey’s cordial 2663

Golden fleece, order of the . . 708, 7 1 5

Pudding 1282

Goose, Brent g(i(i

Description of the . . . . 968

Egyptian 969

Hashed . . . . . . . . 9U7

Roast g fig

,, to carve a 1002

Stulllng for (Soyer’s) .. .. 505

To dress a green 969

Wild 9O7

Gooseberries, compoto of .. .. 1546

Gooseberry, the 1285

Fool 1433

Indigenous to British isles . . 429

•Jam 1547-8

,, white or green .. ., 1519

Jelly 1850

Pudding, halted 1283

sviii

Tin: hook of hoosehotd management.

Paragraph

Gooseberry pudding, boiled.. .. 1281
Sauce for boiled mackerel . . 429

Tart 1285

Trifle 1434

Vinegar 1824

Wine, effervescing .. ..1821

Grapes, qualities of 1601

Grates 2298, 2299, 2338

Gravy, a quickly-made . . . . 434

Beef, for poultry or game (good) 435

Brown 436

„ without meat . . . . 437

Cheap, for minced veal . . . . 443

,, hashes .. .. 440

For roast meat 433

,, venison 444

General stock for . . . . 432

Jugged, excellent .. .. 441

Kettle 432

Made without meat, for fowls . . 439

Orange 488

Rich, for hashes and ragouts . . 438

Roux, for thickening brown . . 525

„ ,, white .. 526

Soup 169

Veal, for white sauces, fricas-
sees 442

Greengage jam 1552

Greengages, compote of .. .. 1551

To preserve dry 1553

„ in syrup .. .. 1554

Green sauce 431

Greens, boiled, turnip .. .. Il6g

Turnip. tops, and cabbage .. 1169

Groom, bridles 2218

Cleaning fawn or yellow leather 2223

Duties of the 2211

Exercising the horses .. .. 2213

Feeding the horses .. 2214-15

Harness .. .. .. .. 2219

,, cleaning old .. 2221-2

,, paste 2220

Shoeing 2217

Watering horses . . .. 2212, 2216

Wheel- grease 2224

Grouse, description of the .. 1025-26

Pie 102 4

Roast 1 025

Salad 1026

To carve a.. .. .. .. 1058

Gruel, barley .. .. .. .. 1856

To make 1868

Gudgeon, the 261

Habitat of the .. .. .. 26 1

Guinea-fowl, description of the . . 970

Roast 970

Guinea-pig, the 997

Gurnet, the 262

To dress . . . . . . . . 262

Haddock, habitat of the .. .. 263

Finnan 266

Weightofthe .. .. .. 264

Haddocks, baked 263

Boiled . . . . . . . . 264

Dried 265-6

Hair-dressing 2248-9

Paragraph

Hair, pomade for .. .. 2253-4

To promote growth of . . . . 2257

Wash for 2252

Ham, fried and eggs 813

Omelet 1457

Potted 814-5

To bake a 810

„ boil a 811

,, carve a 843

„ give it an excellent flavour 812

,, glaize - ..430

Hams, curing of 822

For curing 816

To cure in the Devonshire way 821

,, sweet, in the Westmore-
land way .. .. 818

„ pickle 819

„ salt two .. .. .. 817

„ smoke at home .. .. 820

Hare, broiled 1029

Extreme timidity of the . . 1 027

Hashed 1030

Jugged 1031-2

Potted .. .. .. .. 1028

Roast . . . . . . . . 1 027

Soup .. ., .. .. 170

To carve a .. 1056

The common 170

Haricot, beans, and minced onions 1 121

Blancs a la maitre d’hdtel . . 1120

Mutton 716-17-18

To boil blancs, or white haricot

beans 1119

Harness, cleaning old .. 2221-2

Paste 2220

Room, the 2208

Heart, palpitation of the .. .. 2646

Henbane, hemlock, nightshade, and

foxgltve 2664

Herbs, to dry for winter use . . 445

Powder of, for flavouring .. 446

Sweet 417

Herodotus pudding 1287

Herring, the 268

Red 267

Herrings, baked, white . . . . 268

Red, or Yarmouth bloaters .. 267

To choose 268

Hessian soup 171

Hidden mountain, the .. .. 1438

Hodge-podge 191, 720

Hog, antiquity of the .. 826, 834

Fossil remains of the . . . . 829

General observations on the
common .. .. 765-95

In England 837

Not bacon 807

Universality of the .. .. 833

Wild and domestic .. .. 823

Holly leaves, to frost .. .. 1545

Honey cake !758

Hooping cough .. •• 2408, 2564

Symptoms of 2565

Treatment of .. •• 2566-7

Horse, the 2203

Horses, choosing 2231

Exercising 2213

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

six

Paragraph

Horses, feeding .. .. 2224-15

Watering 2212, 2216

Horseradish, the 447

Medical properties of the .. 1122

Sauce .. .. ' •• •• 447

Vinegar 448

Hot spice .. •• •• •• 524

Housekeeper, daily duties of the 58-61
General duties of the . . . . 55

Knowledge of cookery . . . . 57

Necessary qualifications for a 56
Housemaid, bedroom, attention to 2306,

2323-4

Bright grates 2298

Candlestick and lamp cleaning 2311
Carpet-sweeping.. .. .. 2312

Chips broken off furniture . . 2330

Cleanings, periodical . . 2326-g

Dress of the 2319

Dustiug 2313

Duties after dinner .. .. 2321

,, evening 2322

,, general . . . . 2292 4

Fire-lighting . . . . 2296-7

Furniture-cleaning .. 230/, 2313

General directions to the 2300-5

Hartshorn, for plate-cleaning. . 2316
Laying dinner-table .. 2314-5

Marble, to clean . . . . 2333-4

Needlework . . .. .. 2325

Plate, to clean 2317

„ rags for daily use. . .. 2318

Upper and under 2291

Waiting at table .. .. .. 2320

Recipe, Brunswick black, to

make 2295

„ cement for joining

broken glass or china 2331-2
„ decanters, to clean . . 2336

„ lloorcloth, to clean .. 2335

,, furniture gloss, German 2339

,, ,, paste.. .. 2310

„ ,, polish 2308-9

,, gilt frames, to brighten 2337
„ grates and Are irons, to

preserve from rust 2338
„ polish for bright grates 2299

Hunter’s pudding 1288

Husband and wife .. .. 2725-9

Hysterics 2643

Ice, fruit creams, to make .. .. 1555

Lemon-water 1557

To ice, or glaze pastry . . . . 1334

Iced, apple pudding .. .. .. 1290

Apples, or apple hedgehog .. 1394

Currants . . 1 558

Oranges .. 1564

Pudding 1289

Ices, fruit- water, to make .. .. 1556

General observations on 1510-1 1
Icing, for cakes, almond .. .. 1735

„ sugar .. .. 1736

Indian, Chetney sauce .. .. 452

Corn-flour bread 1721

Curry powder 449

Fritters 1435

Paragraph

Indian, mustard

.. 450

Pickle

Trifle

. . 1436

Infant, the .. .. •• 2160 237/

Ink- snots, to remove

.. 22/1

Invalid cookery, rules to be ob-

served in

1811-54

Invalid’s cutlet, the . .

.. 1865

Jelly

Lemonade . .

.. 1870

Insurance

2708-10

I.O.U., the

.. 2723

Irish stew

721-2

Ironing .. .. .. 2282

23g3-6

Isinglass..

.. 1413

Italian, cream . .

.. 1437

Mutton cutlets ..

.. 723

llusks

.. 1733

Sauce, brown

. . 453

,, white

.. 454

Jam, apple

.. 1517

Apricot, or marmalade . .

.. 1522

Carrot

.. 1525

Cherry

.. 1528

Currant, black . .

.. 1530

,, red

.. 1532

Damson

.. 1533

Gooseberry

1547-8

,, white or green

.. 1549

Greengage

.. 1552

Omelet

Plum

.. 1580

Raspberry

.. 1588

Rhubarb

.. 1590

,, and orange . .

.. 1591

Roly pudding

.. 1291

Strawberry

.. 1594

Jaunemange . .

Jelly, apple

1518-19

„ clear

.. 1396

,, thick, or marmalade

.. 1395

Bag, how to make

.. 1411

Bottled, how to mould . .

.. 1414

Calf’s foot . .

.. 1416

Cow-heel, stock for

.. 1412

Currant, black . .

.. 1531

„ red

.. 1533

,, white . .

.. 1534

General observations on

.. 1386

Gooseberry

.. 1550

Imalld’s ..

Isinglass or gelatine

.. 1413

Lemon

.. 1 447

Liqueur

.. 1449

Moulded with fresh fruit

.. 1410

,, with slices of orange 1455

Of two colours ..

.. 1441

Open with whipped cream

.. 1453

Orange

.. 1454

Quince

.. 1585

Raspberry

.. 1589

Savoury, for meat pies . .

.. 521

Stock for, and to clarify it

.. 1111

Strawberry

.. 1184

To clarify syrup for

.. 1115

Jewels .. ..

.. 2286

Till-: BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Paragraph

John dory, the 218

To dress the 248

Joints, injuries to 26 1 6

Julienne, soup it la 131

Junket, Devonshire 1631

Kale brose .. .. . . .. 132

Kegeree . . . . 269

Ketchup, mushroom 472

Oyster 490 .

Walnut 535-6

Kettles for fish . . 338

Kidney and beefsteak pudding . . 605

Omelet 1458

Kidneys, broiled . . . . . . 724

Fried 725

Kitchen, distribution of a . . . . 62

Essential requirements of the 70

Fuel for the . . . . . . 73

Ranges .. 65-6

Maid, duties of the . . . . 85

Necessity for cleanliness . . 72

Scullery maid, duties of the .. 86

Utensils, ancient and modern 69

„ list of for the . . .. 71

Kitchens of the Middle Ages .. 62

Knives 2177

Kohl Rabi, or turnip- cabbage .. 1095

I.ace collars, to clean . . . . 2266

Lady’s maid, arranging the dressing

room .. .. .. 2246-7

Attention to bonnets . . . . 2244

Chausseric, or foot-gear . . 2245

Dressing, remarks 011 . . 2258 9

Duties of the .. 2243, 2260-2

,, when from home . . 2280

„ evening 2281

Epaulettes of gold or silver .. 2287

Fashions, repairs, &c 2263

Hairdressing . . . . . . 2248

,, lessons in .. 2249

Ironing 2282

Jewels . . 2286

Linen, attention to . . . . 2278

Packing 2279

Rules of conduct .. .. 2288

Recipe, bandoline, to make . . 2255

,, Blonde, to clean .. 2265

,, Brushes, to wash . . 2250

,, Combs, to clean .. 2251

,, Crape, to nuke old look

like new .. .. 2277

„ Essence of lemon, use of 2274
,, Flo»ers, to preserve cat 2289
,, ,, to revive after

packing .. .. 2290

„ Fruit-spots, to remove 2270
„ Furs, feathers, and

woollens .. .. 2281

Grease-spots from cotton
or woollen mate-
rials, to remove 2268
„ from silks or
moires, to remove . . 2269
Ilair, a good pomade

* for the .. 2253-4

Paragraph

Lady’s maid, recipe, hair, a good

wash for the . . 2252

„ ,, to promote the

growth of . . 2257
„ Lace collars, to clean . . 2266

,, Moths, preservatives

against the ravages of 2285
,, Paint, to remove from

silk cloth . . . . 2276

„ Pomatum, an excellent 2256
„ Ribbons or silk, to clean 2275

,, Scorched linen to restore 2283

,, Stains of syrup or pre-

served fruit, to remove 2273
,, To remove ink-spots .. 2271
„ Wax, to remove .. 2272

Lamb, as a sacrifice 744

Breast of, and green peas . . 744

„ stewed .. .. 745

Carving 764

Chops 746

Cutlets and spinach . . . . 747

Fore quarter, to carve a . . 764

,, to roast a. . . . 750

Fry 748

General observations on the 698-702

Hashed and broiled blade-bone of 719

Leg of, boiled 751

,, roast 752

Loin of, braised 753

Saddle of 754

Shoulder of 755

,, stuffed .. .. 756

Lamb’s sweetbreads, larded . . 757

„ another way

to dress 758

Lambs wool, or lamasool .. .. 1227

Lamp-cleaning .. .. 2178,2311

Lamprey, the . . 256

Landlord and tenant, relations of . . 2700
Landrail or corn-crake .. .. 1033

Roast 1033

To carve 1063

Lard, to melt 825

Larding . . . . 828

Lark-pic . . 971

Larks, roast 972

Laundry, situation of, and necessary'

apparatus . . . . 2373-4

Maid, cleaning and washing

utensils 23S6

General duties of the . . . . 2372

Ironing 2393-6

Mangling and ironing . . 2387-9

Rinsing 2379

Soaking linen 2376

Sorting linen 2375

Starch, to make .. .. 2391-2

Starching 2390

Washing 2377-S

,, coloured muslins, &c. 23S0
„ flannels .. .. 2381

„ greasy cloths . . . . 2382

,, satin and silk ribbons 23S4

,, silk handkerchiefs .. 2383

„ silks 2385

Laurel, or bay 180

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

X\1

Paragraph

Law, general remarks on . . . . 2691

Lead, and its preparations . . ..2661

Leamington sauce .. .. •• 159

Lease, breaks in the 2711

Leases, general remarks on. . 2/02-4

Leek, badge of the Welsh .. .. 134

Soup _ 133

Legacies.. .. .. •• 2/51-4

Bequests, &c 2744-9

Legacy duty 2743

Legal memoranda .. .. 2594-2751

Lemon, anti venomous .. .. 455

Biscuits 1743

Blancmange .. .. •• 1442

Brandy . . . . . . - . 450

Cake 1761

Cheesecakes 1292

Cream •• 1443

,, (economical) .. •• 1444

Creams 1445

,, or custards .. .. 1146

Dumplings 1294

Essence of . . . . . . • • 2274

Fruit of the 405

Jelly 1447

Juice of the 456

Mincemeat 1293

Pudding, baked .. .. 1295-7

„ boiled .. .. .. 1298

,, plain 1299

Rind or peel . . . . . . 460

Sauce for boiled fowls .. .. 457

„ for sweet puddings .. 1358

Sponge .. .. .. .. 1448

Syrup .. 1822

'lhyme .. 458

To pickle with the peel on . . 455

,, without the peel .. 456

Water ice .. .. .. .. 1557

Whitesaucefor fowls or fricassees 458

Uses of the 1296

Wine 1823

Lemonade 1834

For invalids I870

Most harmless of acids . . 1 834

Nourishing 1871

Lentil, the 126

Lettuce, corrective properties of the 136

Varieties of the 1 123

Lettuces, to dress . . . . . . 1123

Leveret, to dress a 1034

Liaison 46 1

Lightning, treatment after a person

has been struck by . . . . 2677

Linen, attention to 2278

Scorched, to restore . . . . 2283

Soaking 2376

Sorting .. .. .. 2375

Liqueur Jelly 1449

Liver, and lemon sauce for poultry 462
And parsley sauce for poultry. . 463

Complaints and spasms .. 2644

Lobster, the 270

A la mode Fi-anyaise . . . . 273

Ancient mode of cooking the . . 275

Celerity of the 273

Curry (an entree) 274

Paragraph

Lobster, cutlets (an entree)

.. 275

Hot

How it feeds

.. 278

Local attachment of the

.. 277

Patties (an entree)

. . 277

Potted

Salad

.. 272

Sauce

.. 454

Shell of the

. . 272

Soup

.. 195

To boil

.. 2/0

To dress . .

.. 276

Lumbago

.. 2645

Luncheon cake. .

.. 1765

Luncheons and suppers

2147-48

Lungs, respiration of . .-

2453-6

Macaroni, as usually served

with

cheese course . .

1645-7

Manufacture of ..

J 35, 130)

Pudding, sweet . .

.. 1301

Soup

.. 135

Sweet dish of

.. 1450

Macaroons

.. 1/44

Mace

.. 371

Macedoine de fruit3 . .

.. 1440

Mackerel, the

Baked

.. 279

Boiled

.. 280

Broiled

Fillets of

Garum

Pickled

.. 283

To choose . .

.. 2S1

Weight of the . .

.. 279

Voracity of the . .

. . 2S2

Maid-of-all-work, after breakfast . . 2344

„ ,, dinner

2350-1

Bedrooms, attention to

. . 2352

,, daily work in

.. 2345

Before reth'ing to bed . .

.. 2354

Breakfast, preparation for

.. 2343

Cleaning hall

.. 2342

Cooking dinner . .

.. 2346

Early morning duties . .

.. 2341

General duties . .

.. 2340

,, routine..

.. 2353

Knife-cleaning ..

.. 2351

Laying dinner-cloth

.. 2347

Needlework, time for . .

.. 2356

Waiting at table . .

2343-9

Washing ..

.. 2355

Maigre, soup

Maitre d’hGtel

.. 465

„ butter..

. . 465

,, sauce (hot) ..

.. 466

Maize

.. 1721

Cobbett a cultivator of . .

.. 1174

Or Indian wheat, boiled

.. 1174

Malt wine

.. 1824

Manchester pudding . .

.. 1300

Mangling and ironing

2387-9

Mango chetney, Bengal recipe for

making ..

.. 392

Manna kroup pudding

.. 1302

Qualities of

.. 1302

Mansfield pudding

.. 1303

XXII

THE BOOK OP HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT,

Paragraph

Marble, to clean . . . . 2333-4

Marjoram, species of . . .. 173,415

Marlborough pudding .. .. 1304

Marmalade, and vermicelli pudding 1305

Of Apricots 1522

Orange 1566-7

„ an easy way of making 1568

,, made with honey .. 1569

Quince 1586

Marrow, bones 635

Boiled . . 635

Dumplings 1306

Pudding, boiled or baked .. 1307

Mayonnaise 468

Measles 2547-59

Meat, action of salt on .. .. 607

Bad 605

Baking 663

Good 602

In season, January to December

pp. 33-7

Modes of cooking . . 540-84

Pies, savoury jelly for .. .. 521

To buy economically . . . . 726

Meats, preserved .. .. .. 643

Medical memoranda . . .. 2689-93

Melon, description of the .. .. 1559

Introduced into England .. 1115

Uses of the 1559

Melons 1559

Meringues 1451

Military puddings 1308

Milk, and cream, separation of .. 1627

„ to keep in hot

weather - .. 1628

And suckling .. .. 2472-90

Excellence of 1627

General observations on 1608-14

Or cream, substitute for .. 1815

Qualities of 1628

Soup 137

Millet, Italian 1718

Pannicled .. .. .. .. 1733

Mince pies .. .. .. .. 1311

Minced collops 619

Mincemeat, to make .. .. 1309

Excellent 1310

Lemon . . . . . . . . 1 293

Mint .. .. .. 469

Sauce 469

Vinegar 470

Mistress, after-dinner invitations . . 39

Charity and benevolence, duties of 1 4
Choice of acquaintances .. 6

Cleanliness indispensable to

health . . . . . . . . 4

Conversation, trifling occur-
rences 9

Daily duties 22-6

Departure of guests .. ..45-6

Dessert .. 37-8

Dinner announced .. .. 35

Domestics, engaging .. 17

„ giving characters to 20

„ obtaining .. . . Z 18

„ treatment of .. 19

yearly wages, table of 21

Paragraph

Mistress, dress and fashion . . . . 11

„ of the. .

Early rising

Etiquette of evening parties

. .

40-3

„ the ball-room

Evenings at home

, .

Family dinner at home . .
Fricndshipsshould not be hastily

formed . .

Good temper, cultivation of

Guests at dinner-table . .

Half-hour before diuner

Home virtues

Hospitality, excellence of

. .

Household duties

House-hunting, locality, aspect,

1-2

ventilation, rent

Housekeeping account-book

Introductions

Invitations for dinner . .

Letters of introduction . .

52 3

Marketing

Morning calls and visits

..27-32

Purchasing of wearing apparel

Retiring for the night

Mock-turtle soup

1/2-3

Morello cherries, to preserve

. .

1561

Moths, preservatives against

. .

2285

Muffins . .

1727

Mulberries, preserved
Mulberry, description of the

1560

Mullagatawny soup ..

. .

174

Mullet, grey . .

. .

284

Red

285

Muriatic acid . .

2651

Mushroom, the cultivated ..

473

Growth of the

. .

476

How to distinguish the. .

472

Ketchup

472

Localities of the . .

. .

1126

Nature of the

478

Powder

477

Sauce, brown

474

,, very rich and good

479

,, white

475-6

Varieties of the ..

1125

Mushrooms, baked . .

. .

1124

Broiled

1125

Pickled

47s

Stewed

• •

1127

„ in gravy ..

To dry

1128

473

,, preserve

• •

1126

„ procure

• •

1127

Mustard

450

How to mix

480

Indian

450

Tartar

481

Mutton, baked minced

703

Breast of, boiled . .

„ (excellent way

704

cook a)

709

Broiled, and tomato sauce

710

Broth, quickly marie

1873

,, to make ..

• •

1872

Carving

759-63

China chilo ..

• •

712

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

xxiii

Paragraph

Mutton, chops, broiled .. .. 711

Collops 731

Curried 7>3

Cutlets, of cold 711

,, Italian 723

,, with mashed potatoes 732

Dormers .. .. .. .. 7'5

Fillet of, braised . . . . . . 707

Haricot .. .. .. 716-18

Hashed 71 9

Haunch of, roast 726

„ ,, to carve a . . 739

Hodge-podge 720

Irish stew.. 721-2

Kidney, broiled .. .. .. 724

„• fried 725

Leg of, boiled .. .. .. 705

„ boned and stuffed . . 706

„ braised . . . . . . 708

,, roast . . . . . . 727

„ to carve a . . . . 760

Loin of, to carve a .. .. 761

„ roast 728

„ rolled .. .„ .. 729

Neck of, boiled 730

,, ragout of .. .. 736

„ roast 737

Fie 733-4

Pudding 735

Qualities of various . . . . 707

Saddle of, roast . . . . . . 738

„ to carve a . . . . 762

Shoulder of, roast . . . . 739

„ to carve a . . . . 763

Soup, good 175

Nasturtium, uses of the . . . . 482

Nasturtiums, pickled . . .. .. 482

Nature and art in nursing .. 2445-2452
Navet, description of the .. .. 1168

Nectar, Welsh 1830

Nectarines, preserved .. .. 1562

Needlework ... . . . . . . 2325

Negus, to make 1835

Nesselrode pudding 1313

Nitric acid 2650

Normandy pippins, stewed . . .. 15(13

Notice to quit . . . . . . ..2716

Noxious trades 2712

Noyeau cream 1452

Home-made 1825

Nurse, attention to children’s dis-
positions 2401

Carrying an infant . . . . 2398

Convulsion fits 2406

Croup 2407

Dentition 2405

General duties of the . . 2402-4

Habits of cleanliness in chil-
dren 2400

Hooping-cough 2408

Measles and scarlatina 2410-12

Miss Nightingale’s remarks on

children 2414-5

Worms 2409

Nursemaids, upper and under . . 2397

Nurse, Monthly, age of .. .. 2431

Paragraph

Nurse, Monthly, attention to clean-

liness in the patient’s room . . 2433

Choice of a 2429

Doctor’s instructions must be

observed 2430

General duties of the . . . . 2432

Infant must not be exposed to
light or cold too early . . 2434
Nurse, Sick, airing the bed .. .. 2425

Attention to food . . . . 2127

Bad smells must be removed 2422
Cleanliness, necessity of . . 2421
Diet suitable to the patient’s

taste . . 2428

Duties of the 2416

Necessity for pure air in the
sick-room .. .. .. 2417

Night air injurious, a fallacy 2426
Opening of windows and doors 2418-9
Patient must not be waked . . 2424
Quiet in the patient’s room . . 2423
Ventilation necessary in febrile
cases . . . . . . . . 4202

Nurse, Wet, abstinence from im-
proper food 2441

Age of the 2439

Diet of the 2442

General remarks on the 2435-8

Health and morality of the . . 2440

Spirits, wines, and narcotics to

be avoided . . . . . . 2443

Nutmeg, the 378

Nuts, dish of 1599

„ hazel and filbert .. .. 1599

Olive and olive oil 506

Omelet, au Thon 1494

Aux confitures, or jam omelet 1460

Bachelor’s.. .. .. 1462

Ham .. .. .. .. 1457

Kidney 1458

Plain, sweet 1459

Souffle 1461

The Cure’s . . . . p. 753

To make a plain 1456

Onion before the Christian era . . 139

History of the 485

Origin of the 1131

Properties of the 1130

Sauce, brown 485

„ or Soubise, French .. 483

„ white 484

.Soup .138-9

Onions, burnt, for gravies .. .. 1130

Pickled 486-7

Spanish, baked 1129

„ pickled 527

„ stewed H3i

Open jam tart . . . . . . . . 1365

Opium and its preparations. . .. 2662

Orange, and cloves 1565

Brandy 1826

Cream 1463-4

Fritters 1465

Gravy 488

In Portugal, the 1565

Je“y 1454

XXIV

THE BOOK Of HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT,

Paragraph

Grange, jelly, moulded with slices of

orange 1455

Marmalade .. .. 15G6-7

„ an easy way of

making 1568

,, made with honey . . 1 G69

Pudding, baked 1314

Salad 1571

Seville 1464

Tree, the first in France . . 1 564

Uses of the 1314

Wine 1 827

Oranges, a pretty dish of .. .. 1466

Compote of 1565

Iced 1564

To preserve 1570

Ox, the .. ... 176

Cheek, soup 176

„ stewed 638

Feet, or cowheel, fried . . . . 639

Tail, broiled . . . . . . 652

,, soup 177

Tails, stewed 640

Oxalic acid . . 2652

Oyster, and scallop 288

Excellence of the English .. 291

Fishery 289

Forcemeat 489

Ketchup .. .. .. .. 490

Patties 289

Sauce 492

Season 197

Soup 196-7

The edible 286

Oysters, fried 286

„ in batter .. .. 291

Pickled 491

Scalloped 287

Stewed 288

To keep . . 290

Paint, to remove from silk cloth . . 2276

Pan kail .. 140

Panada ,, .. 420

Pancakes, French 1425

Richer .. .. .. .. 1468

To make 1467

Parsley, and butter 493

Fried 494

How used by the ancients 123, 493
Juice (for colouring various

dishes) 495

To preserve through the winter 496
Parsnip, description of the .. 14), 1132

Soup 141

Parsnips, to boil 1132

Partridge, the 178, 1039

Broiled 1035

Hashed, or salmi de perdrix .. 1038

Pie 1036

Potted 1037

Roast 1 039

Soup .. .. .. .. 178

To carve a 1057

Paste, almond .. .. .. .. 1220

Common, for family pics .. 1207

French pud', or fcuilletage .. 1208

Paragraph

Paste, medium puff 1206

Soyer’s recipe for puff .. .. 1209

Very good puff 1205

Pastry, and puddings, general obser-
vations on .. .. 1175-9

Ramakins to serve with cheese

course 1650

Sandwiches 1318

To ice or glaze .. .. 1334-5

Patties, chicken or fowl .. .. 928

Fried 896

Lobster 227

Oyster 289

Pavini cake 1771

Pea, origin of the 1 133

Soup 144

,, green 142

,, winter, yellow .. .. 143

Sweet and heath or wood .. 1135

Varieties of the .. .. 143,1134

Peas, green 1133

,, alaFranfaise .. .. 1134

„ stewed 1135

Peach, and nectarine 1572

Description of the . . ..1469

Fritters H69

Peaches, compote of 1572

Preserved in brandy . . . . 1573

Pear 1574

Bon Chretien 1576

Pears, a l’Allemandc 1470

Baked .. .. .. .. 1574

Moulded .. .. .. 1471

Preserved .. 1575

Stewed 1576

Pepper, black 369

Long 399

Plant, growth of the .. .. 51 6

White 366

Perch, the 292

Boiled 292

Fried 293

Stewed with wine . . . . 294

Pestle and Mortar 421

Pelites bouches 1319

Pheasant, the 1041

Broiled .. 1043

Cutlets . . . . . . . . 1040

Height of excellence in the .. 1043

Roast 1041

„ BrillatSavarin’srecipe for 1042

Soup 179

To carve a 1059

Pickle, an excellent 497

Beetroot, to 369

Capsicums, to 385

Cucumbers, to 399

For tongues or beef . . . • 641

Gherkins, to 428

Indian (very superior) .. .. 451

Lemons, to 456

„ with the peel on . . 455

Mixed 471

Mushrooms, to 478

Nasturtiums, to 482

Onions, to . . . • 486-7

„ Spanish, to . . . . 527

ANALYTICAL INDEX,

XXV

Pickle, oysters, to
Red cabbage, to
Universal . .

Walnuts, to
Pickles of the Greeks
Keeping . .

Pie, apple, or tart
Beef-steak . .

Chicken or fowl
Eel ..

Fish and oyster
Giblet
Grouse
Lark
Mince
Mutton
Partridge ..

Pigeon
Pork, raised
„ „ little

Poultry or game, raised
Rabbit
Sole or cod
Tench and eel

Veal

,, and ham
,, „ raised

nd Romans

Paragraph
.. 491

.. 49S

.. 533

. . 534

452
451
, 1233
G04
. 9 29

253
. 257

, 966

1024
. 971

. 1311
”33-4
. 1036
. 975

. 835

. 836

. 1340
, 981

, 322

. 349

. 897

898
, 1341

,, olive .. .. .. . . 895

Pig, Guinea 997

How roast pig was discovered 841
„ to, silence a. . .. .. 812

Novel way of recovering a stolen 8 1 9
Sucking, to carve a . . . . 842

,, roast .. .. .. 811

,, to scald . . .. .. 840

The learned 840

Pig’s cheeks, to dry 830

Face, collared 823

Fry, to dress 824

Liver .. .. .. .. 831

Pettitoes . . . . . . . . 832

Pigs, Austrian mode of herding . . 796

English mode cf hunting and
Indian sticking . . . . 800

How pastured and fed formerly 805

Pigeon, the .. 974

Barb . . 976

Breeding . . . . . . . . 974

Carrier 974

Fantail . . . . . . . . 976

House or dovecot, aspect of .. 974

Jacobin .. .. .. .. 976

Necessity of cleanliness in the 974

Nun.. .. g75

Owl 976

Pie 975

Pouter 973

Rock 976

Runt 975

To carve a 1 003

Trumpeter 975

Tumbler .. .. .. 975

Turbit 976

Wood or wild 975

Pigeons, broiled 973

Roast 974

Stewed 976

Paragraph

Pike, the. . .. .. .. .. 295.

Baked .. .. .. .. 296

Boiled 295

Pineapple 1472, 1478

Chips 1577

Fritters 1472

In Heathendom 1578

Preserved 1578

„ for present use .. 1579
Pippins, stewed, Normandy .. 1563

Plaice, the . . . . . . . . 298

Fried 297

Stewed 298

Plate-cleaning.. .. .. 2317-18

Plover, description of the .. .. 1044

To carve a 1066

,, dress a.. .. .. ..1044

Plovers’ eggs 1662

Plum, an excellent pudding .. 1325

Cake, common 1768

„ nice 1769

Jam . . . . . . . . . . 15S0

Pudding, baked 1324

Pudding sauce . . . . . . 499

Tart 1331

Plums 1 330

French, box of 1600

„ stewed 1583

Cultivation of 1582

Origin of the names of . . . . 1580

Preserved .. .. .. .. 1581

To preserve dry 1 582

Poisonous food . . . . . . 2665

Mushrooms 2666

Poisons . . . . . . . . . . 2647

Calomel 265s

Copper 2659

Emetic tartar . . . . . . 2660

Lead, and its preparations .. 2661
Opium and its preparations . . 2662
Symptoms of having inhaled
strong fumes
of smelling
salts. . . . 2655

,, swallowed 2648

„ „ alkalis 2654

,, ,, arsenic 2656

,, ,, corrosive

sublimate 2657
,, „ muriatic

acid.. 2651
„ ,,nitricacid 2650

,, ,, oxalic acid 2652

,, ,, prussic

acid . . 2653
i, „ sulphuric

acid . . 2649

Syrup of poppies and Godfrey’s

cordial 2663

Treatment after taking henbane
hemlock, nightshade, or fox-

glove

.. 2664

Polish tartlets . .

Pomatum, an excellent

.. 2256

Pork, carving . .

.. 842

Cheese

.. 799

Cutlets

.. 796

XXVI

THE BUCK op household management.

Paragraph

Perk, cutlets or chops .. 797-8

Griskin of, roast 827

Hashed 801

Leg of, boiled 820

„ roast 800

„ to carve a .. .„ 814

Loin of, roast 829

Pickled, to boil 834

Pies 835

,, little, raised .. .. 836

Sausages, to make . . . . 837

To pickle 833

Portable suup 180

Potato, the 147

Analysis of the 1138

As an article of food .. — 1148

Bread 1141

Fritters 1474

Pasty 1332

Properties of the 1137

Pudding 1333

Qualities of the 1147

Rissoles 1147

Salad 1154

Snow 1148

Soup 145-6-7

Starch 1139

Sugar 1136

Uses of the 1140

Varieties of the 1146

Potatoes, it la maitre d’hGtel .. 1144

Baked 1136

Fried, French fashion .. .. 1142

German way of cooking .. 1143

How to use cold . . .. .. 1141

Mashed 1145

Preserving 1143

Purde de pommes de terre .. 1146

To boil 1137

,, in their jackets . . . . 1138

new 1139

,, steam 1140

Potted, heef 642-3

Chicken or fowl 930

Ham 815

Hare 1028

Partridge 1037

Shrimps 312

Veal 899

Poulet, a la Marengo 949

Aux cressons 964

Poultry, in season, January to

December .. .. pp. 33-7

Pound cake 1 770

Pounded cheese 1648

Prawn, the 198

Soup 198

Prawns or shrimps, buttered .. 313

To boil 299

„ dress 300

Prescriptions, general remarks on. . 2580
Blister, an ordinary . . . . 2598

Clyster 2582

Draught 2581

„ common black. . . . 2587

Drugs, list of, necessary to carry

cut all instructions . . . . 2579 ]

Paragraph

Prescriptions, liniment . . . . 2583

Lotion .. 2584

„ Goulard 2585

,, Opodeldoc 258G

Mixtures, aperient . . . . 2588

„ fever 2589

Pills 2592

„ compound iron .. .. 2591

„ myrrh and aloes .. .. 2590

Poultice 2604

,, Abcrnethy’s plan for

making a bread-and-

water 2595

„ linseed meal . . . . 2596

„ mustard 2597

Powders 2593

Preserved, and dried greengages .. 1553
Cherries in syrup . . . . 1529

Damsons 1539

,, or any other kind of

plums .. .. 1540

Ginger .. .. .. .. 1432

Greengages in syrup .. .. 1554

Morello cherries 1561

Mulberries .. 1560

Nectarines 1562

Oranges 1570

Peaches in brandy .. .. 1573

Pineapple 1 578

Plums 1581

Pumpkin 1584

Strawberries in wine . . . . 1 595

„ whole .. .. 1596

Preserves, general observations on 1495,

1507

Primitive ages, simplicity of the . . 63-4

Prince of Wales soup 148

Property law . . . . . . 2696-S

Prussic acid 2653

Ptarmigan, or white grouse . . 1045

To carve a 1064

,, dress a 1045

Pudding, Alma 1237

Almond, baked 1221

,, small 1222

Apple, baked, very good .. 1231

,, ,, economical .. 1229

,, ,, rich 1228

„ boiled 1232

,, iced 1290

,, rich sweet 1230

Apricot, baked 1238

Arrowroot, baked or boiled .. 1240
Asparagus.. .. .. .. 1089

Aunt Nelly’s 1224

Bachelor’s 1241

Bakewell .. .. 1242-3

Baroness .. 1244

Batter, baked 1246

„ „ with dried or fresh

fruit 1247

,, boiled 1248

Beefsteak and kidney . . . . 60s

,, baked 600

Bread, baked 1250

,, boiled 1252

„ brown 1253

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

XXVII

Pudding;, bread, miniature
,, very plain
Bread-and-butter, baked
Cabinet, or chancellor’s

agraph
1234
1251
1253
125(5

plain, or boiled bread-

>lain

and-butter
Canary

Carrot, baked or boiled
Christmas, lor children
„ plum . .

Cold

College

Currant, black or red
„ boiled . .

Custard, baked . .

,, boiled ..

Damson
Delhi

Empress ..

Exeter
Fig . .'

„ Staffordshire recipe
Folkestone pudding pies
German

,, or Dampfhudeln
Ginger
Golden

Gooseberry, baked
„ boiled
Half-pay ..

Herodotus..

Hunter’s
Iced..

Lemon, baked
„ boiled
,, plain
Macaroni, sweet . .

Manchester
Manna kroup
Mansfield . .

Marlborough

Marmalade and vermicelli
Marrow, boiled or baked
Military
Monday’s ..

Mutton
Nesselrode. .

Orange, baked . .

,, batter ..

Paradise . .

Pease .. ..

Plum, an excellent
„ baked
,, fresh fruit..

Potato
Pound, plum
„ ,, an unrivalled

Quickly made
Raisin, baked
„ boiled
Rhubarb, boiled
Rice, baked

„ „ more economical . .

,, boiled with dried and fresh

fruit .. '.. 1315-6

,, French, or gateau de riz 1352
» ground, boiled or baked 1363

1257

1258
. 1259
. 1327
. 1328
. 1262
. 1263
. 1266
. 1265
. 1268
. 1269
. 1271
. 1272
. 1273
. 1274
. 1275
. 1276
. 12 77
. 1279
. 1280
. 1281
. 1282
. 1263
. 1284
. 1286
. 1287
. 1288
. 1289
1295-7
. 1298
. 1299
. 1301

. 1300
. 1302 '
. 1303
. 1304
. 1305
. 1307
. 1308
. 1312
. 735

. 1313
. 1314
. 1249
. 1322
. 1323
. 1325
. 1324
. 1330
. 1333
. 1329
. 1326
. 1366
. 1336
. 1337
. 1338
. 1342

1343

Paragraph

Pudding, rice, iced 1354

,, miniature .. .. .. 1355

„ plain, boiled .. .. 1344

Roly-poly jam .. .. .. 1291

Royal Coburg 1260

Sago 1367

Semolina, baked 1369

Somersetshire .. .. .. 1374

Suet, to serve with roast meat 1375

Tapioca .. 1370

Treacle, rolled .. .. .. 1372

Toad-in-the-hole.. .. .. 672

„ „ of cold meat. . 743

Vermicelli.. 1377

Vicarage . . . . . . . . 1 378

West Indian .. .. .. 1382

Yorkshire .. .. .. .. 1384

Puddings and pastry, directions for

making 1180, 1204
,, general observa-
tions on 1175-1 179
Puits d ’amour, or puff-paste rings 1321

Pumpkin, preserved 1584

Punch 1839

To make hot 1839

Purchasing a house . . . . 2695-98

Quadrupeds, general observations on 585,

Quail, description of the

To carve a

To dress a

Queen-cakes ..

Quenelles a tortue

Veal

Quince, the

Jelly

Marmalade

Quin’s sauce . . . .

Rabbit, A la minute . .

Angora

Boiled . .

Common wild
Curried

Fecundity of the . .

Fried

Habitat of the
Hare

Himalaya . .

House

Hutch

Pie . .

Ragout of, or hare
Roast or baked . .

Soup

Stewed

,, in milk . .

,, larded
To carve a
Varieties of the . .

Rabbits, fancy . .

Radish, varieties of the
Raised pie, of poultry or game

Pork

Veal and ham

Raisin, the

c 2

597

.. 1046
.. 1065
.. 1045
.. 1773
.. 189

.. 422

.. 1233
.. 1585
.. 1586
.. 500

.. 980
.. 985

• • 977

.. 978

.. 981

• • 979

.. 977

. . 985

.. 985

.. 982
.. 983

.. 981
.. 982
.. 983

.. 181
.. 984

.. 1874
.. 985

.. 1004

• • 979

. . 984

.. 1152
.. 1340

835-6
.. 1341
.. 1327

XXV1L1

THE HOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT,

Paragraph

Raisin, cheese 1587

Grape 1321

Pudding, baked 1336

„ boiled 1337

Ramekins, pastry 1650

To serve with cheese course 1G49
Raspberry, and currant salad .. 1592

,, tart .. 1267

Cream . . . . . . . . 1 475

Jam.. 1588

Jelly 1589

Vinegar . . . . . . . . 1 828

Raspberries, red and white . . . . 1267

Ratafias 1745

Ravigotte, a French salad sauce . . 501

Reading sauce . . 502

Rearing by hand . . . . 2497-8

Rearing, management, and diseases

of infancy and childhood 2445-2577

Receipts 2730

Regency soup . . 1 8,2

Remoulade, or French salad dressing 503
Rent, recovery of .. .. 2719-22

Rhubarb, ami orange jam .. .. 1 59 1

Description of .. .. .. 1339

Jam.. .. .. .. .. 1590

Pudding, boiled 1338

Tart 1339

Wine 1829

Ribbons, or silk, to clean .. .. 2275

Rice, and apples .. .. .. 1100

Biscuits or cakes 1 7-16

Blancmange 1476

Boiled for curries 1347

Bread 1720

Buttered .. .. .. .. 1349

Cake 1772

Casserole of, savoury .. .. 1350

., sweet 1351

Croquettes.. .. .. .. .1477

Esteemed by the ancients .. 1349

Fritters .. .. . . .. 1478

Ground 1746

„ boiled 1353

Iced 1354

Indian, origin of 150

Milk 18/5

Paddy 1347

Pudding, baked . . . . . . 1 342

,, ,, more economical 1343

,, boiled 1345

,, „ plain .. .. 1344

,, „ with dried or

fresh fruit . . 1346
,, French, or gfiteau dc

riz 1352

Miniature 1355

Qualities of 1342

Snowballs 1479

Souffle .. .. .. .. 1480

Soup .. 150-1

To boil for curries .. .. 1348

Varieties of 1345

Ringworm, cure for 2667

Alterative powders for . . . . 2668

Rinsing 2379

Rissoles, beef . . 46s

Paragraph

Roach, the 243

Roasting, age of 65

Memoranda in 657

Rock biscuits . . 1747

Rolls, excellent 1723

Fluted 1317

Hot 1724

Meat, or sausage . . . . 1373

Roux, brown, for thickening sauces 525

White, ,, „ 526

Rusks, Italian 1733

To make 1734

Sage 427

And onion stuffing .. .. 50 4

Sago, alimentary properties of .. 1367

How procured 152

Pudding .. 1367

Sauce for sweet puddings .. 1368

Soup .. .. .. .. 152

Salad, a poetic recipe for . . . . 508

Boiled 1151

Chicken 931

Dressing 506-8

,, French 503

Grouse 1026

Lobster 272

Orange 1571

Potato 1154

Scarcity of, in England. . . . 505

Summer . . 1 T52

Winter 1153

Salads 1153

Salmi dc perdrix, or hashed par-
tridge .. .. .. .. 1038

Salmon, il la Genevese . . . . 307

Ami caper sauce 302

Aversion of the . . . . . . 309

Boiled 301

Collared 303

Crimped .. 304

Curried 305

Cutlets 305

Growth of the 305

Habitat of the 303

Migratory habits of the. . .. 302

Pickled 308

Potted 309

To carve .. .. .. p . 175

,, choose .. 301

,, cure 308

Tribe 304

Salsify, description of .. .. 11 19

To dress 1149

Salt, action of on meat . . . . 607

Common 403

Fish .. •• •• •• •• 233

Meat, Soyer’s recipe for pre-
serving the gravy in . . . . 609

Sandwiches, of cheese .. .. 1641

Pastry 1318

Toast .. •• •• •• 1877

Victoria *491

Sauce, il PAurorc •. .. •• 511

A la matelote 512

Allcmande, or German sauce . . 509

Anchovy, for Osh . . . . 362

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

XXIX

I'urugraph

Sauce, apple, brown 364

„ for geese or pork . . 363

Aristocratique .. .. .. 510

Arrowroot, for puddings . . 1356

Asparagus 365

Bechamel, or French white sauce 36/
,, maigre .. .. 368

Benton .. .. .. .. 370

Beurre noir, or browned butter,
a French sauce .. .. 374

Bread 371-2

Browning for . . . . . . 373

Butter, melted 376-7

,, ,, made with milk 380

,, ,, maitre d’hfitel . . 465

,, thickened . . . . 379

Camp vinegar 381

Caper, for boiled mutton . . 382

„ for fish . . . . . . 383

,, a substitute for .. .. 384

Celery, for boiled turkey,

poultry, &c. . . 387

,, a more simple recipe 338
Cherry, for sweet puddings .. 1357
Chestnut, brown. . . . ..391

„ for turkey or fowls . . 390

Chili vinegar 393

Christopher North’s, for game
or meat . . . . . . . ^ 394

Consomme, or white stock for 395

Crab, for fish 396

Cream, for fish or white dishes 397

Cucumber 398

,, white . . . . 400

Custard, for sweet puddings or
tart .. .. .. .. 404

Dutch, for fish . . . . . . 405

„ green, or Hollandaise

verte .. 406

Egg, for salt fish .. .. 409

Epicurean 410

Espagnole, or brown Spanish . . 411

Fennel, for mackerel .. .. 412

Fish 413

For boiled puddings . . . . 514

„ steaks 516

,, wildfowl 519

Genevese, for salmon, trout, &c. 427
Gooseberry, for boiled mackerel 429
Green, for green geese or duck-

lings 431

Horseradish 447

Hot spice 524

Indian chetney 452

Italian, brown 453

„ white 454

Leamington 459

Lemon, for boiled fowls . . 457

,, for fowls and fricassees,

white 458

„ for sweet puddings .. 1358
Liaison of eggs for thickening 461
Liver and lemon, for poultry . . 482

„ parsley .. .. 463

Lobster 464

Maigre maitre d’liOtel (hot) .. 467

Maitre d’hotel (hot) .. .. 466

Paragraph

Sauce, mango chetney (Bengal recipe) 392
Mayonnaise .. .. .. 46s

Melted butter .. .. ..376-3

Mint .. 469

M ushroom, a very rich and good 479
,, brown .. .. 474

,, ketchup .. .. 472

,, white.. .. 475-6

Onion , brown 485

,, French, or Soubise .. 483

„ white 484

Oyster 492

Parsley and butter .. .. 193

Piquante . . . . . . . . 513

Plum-pudding 499

Quin’s (an excellent fish sauce) 509

Uavigotte 501

Reading 502

515

1363

522

1359

523

1360
518

525-6

529-32

Robert

Sago, for sweet puddings
Shrimp

Soyer’s, for plum-puddings
Store, or Cherokee
Sweet, for puddings
„ ,, venison

Thickening for . .

Tomato

Tournee .. .. .. .. 517

Vanilla custard 1 36 1

Wine, excellent for puddings . . 1362
„ for puddings .. .. 1364

„ or brandy 1363

„ white . . . . 537-9

Sauces and gravies, in the Middle Ages433

Manufacture of 510

Pickles, gravies, and forcemeats
remarks on

Saucer-cakes, for tea . .

Sausage, meat calces . .

Meat stuffing
Or meat rolls

Sausages, beef

Pork, fried

,, to make . .

Veal

Savory

Savoury jelly for meat pies . .

Savoy, the

Biscuits or cakes

Cake

Scarlatina, or scarlet fever

Scotch, collops

,, white..

Eggs

Rarebit, or toasted cheese
Shortbread
Woodcock . . . . ,

Scrap cakes

Scratches
Sea-bream, the

,, baked

Kale, description of
To boil

Seed, biscuits . .

Cake, common . .
„ very good..

Mr. Yarrell’s recipe 3 1 0

4, 261

1774

839

520
1373

662

838

837

904

446

521
140

1748
1782
2560-3
870
871
1665
1651
1780
1 653
1779
2669

310
310

1150

1749

1775

1776

XXX

THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Paragraph

Semolina, pudding, baked . .

.. 1369

Qualities of

.. 153

Soup

Uses of

.. 1369

Shad, the

To dress . .

Shalot, or Eschalot . .

.. 410

Sheep, the

.. 175

General observations on the

fi/8, 697

Poets on the

.. 730

Sheep’s brains, en matelote

.. 740

Feet, or trotters . .

..*741

Head, to dress . .
,, singed

.V 742

.. 742

Shepherd, the Ettrick

. . 739

The Good

Shepherds and their flocks . .

.. 710

Sherry

.. 1416

Pale

.. 1426

Shortbread, Scotch . .

.. 1730

Shrimp, the

Sauce

Shrimps, or prawns, buttered

.. 313

„ to boil

.. 299

Potted

.. 312

Sick-rooms, caution in visiting

.. 2692

Sirloin, origin of the word . .

.. 659

Skate, the

.. 315

Boiled

.. 314

Crimped

.. 315

Small, fried

... 317

Species of

.. 317

To choose

With caper sauce (a la Francaiso) 316

Smelt, the

.. 319

Odour of the

.. 318

Smelts, to bake

.. 318

To fry

.. 31 p

Snipe, description of the

.. 104 7

Snipes, to carve

.. 1060

To dress

.. 1017

Snow cake

1777-8

Eggs, or oeufs a la ncige
Snowballs, apple

.. 1182

.. 1235

Rice

.. 1179

Soda, biscuits . .

.. 17 51

Bread

.. 1722

Cake

.. 1/81

Carbonate of

.. 1765

Sole, the

. . 320

Flavour of the . .

. . 324

Or cod pic

. . 322

Soles, a favourite dish of the ancient

Greeks . .

.. 323

Baked

.. 320

Boiled

.. 321

,, or fried, to carve
Filiated, it PItalienne ..

V- 1/5

.. 324

Fricasseed

.. 325

Fried

. . 32/

,, filleted

. . 326

How caught

.. 325

To choose . .

. . 320

With cream sauce

. . 323

,, mushrooms

. . 328

Sorrel

.. 131

Qualities of

.. 431

Soufiid, apple

Paragraph

Chocolate

Omelette

Rice

.. 1480

To make a

.. 1481

Souffles, general observations on . . 1388

Soup, it la cantatrice . .

.. 119

,, Crecy

. . 126

,, Flamande . .

129-30

,, Julienne ..

.. 131

„ Reine

.. 183-4

„ Solferi.no . .

. . 154

Almond

Apple

Artichoke, Jerusalem ..

.. 112

Asparagus

113-14

Baked

. . 115

Barley

.. no

Bread

.. 117

Brilla

Broth and bouillon, general

remarks on

.. 91-5

Cabbage

.. 118

Call ’s head

.. 167

Carrot

120-1

Celery

.. 122

Chantilly

.. 123

Chemistry and economy of mak-

96, 103

Chestnut, Spanish

.. 124

Cock-a Leekie

.. 134

Cocoa-nut

.. 125

Crayfish

.. 193

Cucumber

.. 127

Eel

.. 194

ESS

Family, a good . .

.. 190

Fish, stock

.. 192

General directions for making S3

Giblet

Gravy

.. 169

Hare

.. 170

Hessian

.. 171

Hodge-podge

.. 191

In season, January to December

Kale brose . .

pp. 5/, 104
. . 132

Leek

.. 133

Lobster

.. 195

Macaroni

.. 135

Maigre

.. 136

Making, the chemistry of

96-103

Milk

.. 137

Mock-turtle

.. 172-3

Mullaga tawny

.. 174

Mutton, good

.. 175

Onion

..138-9

Ox-cheek

.. 176

Ox-tail

.. 177

Oyster

..196 7

Pan kail

.. 140

Parsnip

.. 141

Partridge

.. 173

Pea, green

.. 144

„ inexpensive

.. 142

,, winter, yellow
Pheasant

.. 143

ANALYTICAL INDEX,

XXXI

Soup, portable

Paragraph
.. 180

Potage printanier

.. 149

Potato

145-7

Prawn

Prince of Wales . .

.. 148

Rabbit

.. 181

Regency

.. 182

Rice

..150-1

Sago

Seasonings for . .

.. 90

Semolina ..

... 153

Spanish chestnut. .

.. 124

Spinach

• • 155

Spring

Stew

„ of salt meat

.. 185

Tapioca

.. 156

Turkey

.. 188

Turnip

Turtle

Useful for benevolent purposes 165

Vegetable

159-1

,, marrow

... 158

Vermicelli..

.. 162-3

White

.. 164

Sow, Berkshire

.. 781

Chinese

Cumberland

.. 784

Essex

. . 782

Price of, in Africa

.. 816

Yorkshire

Soy

.. 497

Soyer’s recipe for goose stuffing . . 505

Spanish onions pickled

. . 527

Spiced beef

.. 665

Spinach, description of

.. 1156

Dressed with cream, a la Fran-

9aise

.. 1156

French mode of dressing

.. 1157

Green, for colouring dishes .. 523

Soup

.. 155

To boil, English mode

.. 1155

Varieties of

155, 1 155

Sponge cake

.. 1783

Small, to make . .

.. 1/85

Lemon

.. 1443

Sprains

Sprat, the

Sprats

• • 329

Dried

.. 331

Fried in batter

.. 330

Sprouts

.. 1096

Boiled, Brussels ...

.. 1096

To boil young greens, or

.. 1097

Stables and coach-house

.. 2204

Heat of

.. 2205

Stains of syrup, or preserved

fruits,

to remove . .

.. 2273

Stalls

Stammering

.. 2073

Cure for

.. 2672

Stamp duties ..

Starcii, to make

2391-2

Starching

.. 23<iO

Stew soup

185-7

Stilton cheese . .

Stock, browning for . .

.. 1 OS

Paragraph

Stock, cow-heel

1412

Economical

106

For gravies, general

432

For jelly

141!

Medium

105

Rich strong

104

To clarify ..

109

White

107

Stomach, digestion ..

2457-9

Stone cream

1483

Stole sauce, or Cherokee

528

Strawberry, jam

1594

Jelly..

1484

Name of, among the Greeks

1381

Origin of the name

1305

Strawberries, and cream

15fl3

Dish of

I6u6

To preserve whole

1590

,, in wine

1505

Stuffing, fer geese, ducks, pork,

&c.

504

Sausage meat for turkey

520

Soyer’s recipe for. .

505

Sturgeon, the

332

Baked

332

Estimate of, by the ancients

333

Roast

333

Stye in the eye

2630

Substitute for milk and cream

1815

Sucking’-pig, to carve

812

To roast

811

,, scald

840

Suffocation, apparent

Carbonic acid gas, choke-damp

2674

of mines

26/5

Sugar, and beetroot . .

J 2 1 1

Cane

1334

French

1211

Icing for cakes . .

1736

Introduction of ..

1336

Potato

1136

Qualities of

1212

To boil to caramel

1514

Sulphuric acid

2619

Sultana grape

1326

Suppers . .

2139-41

Sweetbreads, baked . .

906

Fried

907

Slewed

Sweet dishes, general observations

908

Oil. .

1385-8

Swine, (lesh of, in hot climates
Swineherds of antiquity

835

836

Saxon

833

Swiss cream

1485

Syllabub, to make

I486

Whipped ..

1493

Syrup, for compotes, to make

1512

Lemon

1822

Of poppies . .

2663

To clarify

••

1513

Tails, strange

052

Tapioca pudding

1370

Soup

150

Wholesomencss of

156,

1370

1234

Tart, apple creamed . .

Apricot

1239

XXXII

THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT,

Paragraph

Tart, barberry 1245

Cherry .. . ... .. 1261

Damson 1270

Gooseberry 12S5

Plum 1331

• Raspberry and currant . . .. 1267

Rhubarb .. 1339

Strawberry, or any other kind
of preserve, open .. .. 1365

Tartlets

1371

Polish

1320

Tarrogan

503

Taxes

. .

27H

Tea

1814

And coffee . .

1813

Miss Nightingale's opinion

the use of

1864

To make . .

1814

Teacakes

1786

To toast

1/87

Teal, to carve

1067

To roast a

1048

Teething

2510-18

Tenancy, by sufferance

. .

2701

General remarks on

2717

Tench, the

334

And eel-pie

349

Matelote of

334

Singular quality in the . .

335

Stewed with wine

. .

335

Terms used in cookery, French

. .

Thrush and its treatment . .

2523-37

Thvme . .

166

Tipsy-cake

. .

1487

,, an easy way of making

1488

Toad-in-the-hole

672

,, of cold meat

743

Toast, and water, to make . .

. .

1876

Sandwiches

1877

Tea-cakes, to

. .

1787

To make dry

1725

,, hot buttered . .

. .

1726

Toffee, Everton, to make

1-597

Tomato, analysis of the

1159

Extended cultivation of the

1160

1 mmense importance in cookery

1158

Sauce

529

,, for keeping

. .

530-2

Shewed

1159-00

Uses of the .. 529,

528,

2690

Tomatoes, baked, excellent..

. .

1158

Tongue, boiled

673

Pickle for . .

641

To cure

674-5

To pickle and dress to eat cold

676

Tongues of animals ..

. .

675

Toothache, cure for the

2678 9

Tourtc apple or cake . .

. .

1236

Treacle, or molasses, description of

1224

Pudding, rolled . .

. •

1372

Trifle, apple

. .

1404

Gooseberry

. .

1434

Indian

. .

1436

To make a..

, ,

1489

Tripe, to dress

. .

677

Trout, the

. .

336

Stewed

336

Paragraph

Truffle, the common 1161

Impossibility of regular culture

of the 1162

Uses of the Il6«

Truffles, a l’ltalienne 1164

Au naturel 1161

Italian mode of dressing . . 1163
To dress with champagne . . 1 162

Where found 1163

Turbot, the 338

Alacrfimc.. .; .. .. 341

Ancient Romans’ estimate of the 340

Au gratin 342

Boiled 337

Fillets of, baked 339

„ it l’ltalienne . . . . 340

Garnish for, or other large fish 338

To carve a.. .. .. p ■ 175

To choose 338

Turkey, boiled 986

Croquettes of 987

Difficult to rear the . . . . 188

Disposition of the . . . . 988

English 990

Feathers of the 99 1

Fricasseed 988

Habits of the 988

Hashed 989

Hunting 989

Native of America . . . . 986

Orfowl, to bone without opening992-4

Poults, roast 991

Roast 996

,, Stuffing for .. .. 520

Soup .. .* . . •• 188

To carve a roast 1005

Wild 987

Turnip greens boiled 1169

Or the French navet . . . . 1168

Qualities of the 1 167

Uses of the 1165

Whence introduced .. .. 157

Soup 157

Turnips, boiled .. .. .. 1165

German mode of cooking . . 1167

In white sauce 1168

Mashed - 1186

Turnovers, fruit 1278

Turtle, mock 172-3

Soup, cost of 189

The green 1S9

Valet, cleaning clothes .. .. 2239

Duties of the . . 2234-8, 2242

Polish for boots .. .. 2240-1

Vanilla cream . . 1490

Custard sauce .. .. .. 1361

Vanille or Vanilla H90

Veal, it la bourgeoisc . . . . 869

And ham pie 898

Bakeil . . . . • . • • 856

Breast of, roast 857

,, stewed and peas .. 858

,, to carve .. .. 912

Cake

Collops • • 8/9

,, Scotch 870

ANALYTICAL INDEX.

xxxiii

* Paragraph

Veal, collops, Scotch, white

.. 871

Colour of

.. 86!

Curried

. . 865

Cutlets

. . 866

,, a la Maintenon . .

.. 868

„ broiled

.. 867

Dinner, “ a very”

.. 897

Fillet of, au Bechamel . .

.. 883

,, roast

.. 872

„ stewed

. . 873

,, to carve a..

.. 914

Frenchman’s opinion of

.. 911

Fricandeau of

.. 8/4-5

Knuckle of, ragout

.. 884

,, stewed

.. 885

„ to carve a . .

.. 915

Loin of au Daube

.. 888

„ au Bechamel . .

.. 887

,, roast

.. 886

,, to carve..

.. 916

Manner of cutting up

. . 854

Minced

89-892

,, and macaroni ..

.. 891

Neck of, braised . .

.. 893

,, roast .. .i

.. 894

Olive pie

. . 895

Patties, fried

.. 896

Pie

Potted

.. 899

Quenelles

Ragout of, cold . .

.. 900

Rissoles

Rolls

.. 962

Sausages

.. 904

Season and choice of . .

.. 908

Shoulder of

.. 903

Stewed

.. 905

,, tendons dc veau

909-10

Tote de veau en tortne . .

.. 911

Vegetable, a variety of the gourd . . 158

Fried

Marrow, a tropical plant

.. 1171

„ boiled . .

.. 1170

,, in white sauce

.. 1173

Soup

158, 159-61

Vegetables, acetarious

.. 1151

And herbs, various

.. 89

Cut for soups

.. 1172

General observations on

1069, 1079

Reduced to puree

.. 1166

In season, January to December

pp. 33-7

Venison

Antiquity of, as food

. . 444

Hashed

Haunch of, roast. .

.. 1049

Sauce for

. . 518

Stewed

.. 1051

The new . .

.. 1051

To carve . .

.. 1061

Ventilation, necessity of, in

rooms

lighted with gas . . 2693

,, of stables

.. 2206

Vermicelli

162, 1377

Pudding

Soup

. . 162-3

Vicarage pudding

.. 1378

Paragraph

Victoria sandwiches . .

.. 1491

Vinegar, camp

.. 381

Cayenne

.. 386

Celery

.. 3S9

Chili

.. 393

Cucumber . .

.. 401

Gooseberry

.. 1820

Horseradish

.. 418

Mint

Raspberry

.. 1828

Use of, by the Romans . .

. . 451

Vol-au-vent, an entree

.. 1379

Of fresh strawberries

with

whipped cream. .

.. 1381

Sweet, with fresh fruit . .

.. 1330

Wafers, Geneva

.. 1431

Walnut, the

.. 536

Ketchup ..

535-6

Walnuts, pickled

. . 534

Properties of the . .

.. 1599

To have fresh throughout the

season . .

.. 1607

Warts

Washing

■ 2377-8

Coloured muslins, Sec. . .

.. 2380

Flannels . .

.. 2381

Greasy cloths

.. 2382

Satin and silk ribbons . .

.. 2384

Silks

.. 2385

Water, rate

Souchy

352-3

Supply of in Rome

.. 1216

Warm

.. 2691

What the ancients thought of 1214

Wax, to remove

.. 2272

Welsh, nectar . .

.. 1830

Rarebit, or toasted cheese

.. 1632

West-Indian pudding. .

.. 1392

Wheat, diseases of

Egyptian or mummy . .

.. 1779

.. 1783

Polish and Pomeranian . .

.. 1722

Red varieties of . .

•• 1719

Wheatear, the . .

Wheatears, to dress . .

. . 996

Whipped, cream

.. 1492

Syllabubs

.. 1493

Whisky cordial

.. 1840

Whitebait

To dress

. . 348

Whiting, the

Au gratin, or baked

. . 346

Aux fines herbes . .

.. 347

Buckhorn . .

Boiled

Broiled

Fried

. . 345

Pout and pollack . .

. . 3.17

To carve a

p. 176

,, choose . .
Whitlow, to cure a . .

.. 2681

Widgeon, to carve a . .

.. 1068

Roast

.. 1052

Will, attestation of a . .
Advice in making a

.. 2757

.. 2756

Witnesses to a . .

2746, 2758

Wills ..

2732 38

xxxiv

THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT,

Paragraph

Wills, form of .. .. 2740-1

Wine, cowslip 18 17

Elder 1818

Ginger I819

Gooseberry, effervescing .. 1821

Lemon 1823

Malt 1824

Orange 1827

Rhubarb 1829

To mull .. 1838

Wire-basket 494

Witnesses 2739-51

Woodcock, description of the .. 1053

Scotch 1653

To carve a 1062

Paragraph

Woodcock, to roast a .. .. 1053

Woollen manufactures . . . . 737

Woollens 2284

Worms 2409

Wounds 2(182

Incised, or cuts .. .. 2683, 2686

Lacerated or tom .. 2684, 2687

Punctured or penetrating 2685, 2688

Yeast 1383

Cake, nice 1788

Dumplings 1383

Kirkleatham .. .. 1717

To make, for bread .. .. 1716

Yorkshire pudding 1384

ENGRAVINGS.

Almond and blossom

Paragraph
.. 110

Paragraph

Beef, side of. showing- the several

Puddings . .

1222

joints

Almonds and raisins

1598

Sirloin of . .

Anchovy

226

„ to carve a

.. 677

Apple, and blossom . .

1226

Steak pie

. . 634

Compote of

1515

Tongue

Jelly stuck with almonds

1395

„ to carve a

• • 677

Apples, dish of . .

1598

Beetroot

.. 1094

Arrowroot

387

Birds

Artichoke, cardoon . .

1080

Blackcock

.. 1019

Jerusalem . .

1084

Roast

.. 1010

Artichokes

1080

„ to carve a . .
Blacking-brush box . .

.. 1054

Asparagus

114

.. 2312

On toast . . * . .

1087

Blancmange

.. 1409

Tongs

1037

Mould for

1108, 14 12

Bacon, boiled . .

801

Boar, Westphalian . .
Bread, &c

.. 787

.. 1658

For larding, and needles

828

Loaf of, cottage . .

.. 1718

Bain Marie

430

Tin

.. 1718

Bantams, black

93S

Brill, the

. . 230

Feather-legged . .

958

Brocoli . .

.. 1095

Barbel

229

Boiled

.. i 095

Barberry

1215

Broom, carpet

.. 2293

Barley

116

Long hair

.. 2301)

Basil

417

Brush, banister

.. 2302

Basin, pudding

1200

Cornice

.. 2327

Basket, wire . .

494

Crumb

.. 2321

Bay, the

512

Dusting

.. 2327

Bean, broad

1092

Furniture

French

1151

Plate

.. 231/

Haricot

1120

Scrubbing

.. 2306

Scarlet runner . .

1090

Staircase

.. 2302

Beef, aitchbone of

677

Stove

Brisket of, to carve a

677

Buns

.. 1731

Collared . .

617

Butler’s tray and stand

.. 2315

Ribs of, to carve a

077

Butter, dish

.. 1632

Round of, to carve a

077 I

Dish of, rolled

.. 1634

ANALYTICAL INDEX.— ENGRAVINGS,

XXXV

Cabbage, seeding

Paragraph
.. 1 is

Deer, roebuck . .

Paragraph

.. 1051

Cake-moulds ..

l/5t), 1 / 6 1 ,

1772

The stag and hind

.. 1051

Calf, side of, showing the several

Dessert . .

joints

854

Dishes

Calf s-head

877

Dish, baking

Half a

877

Pie ..

.. 1190

To carve a . .

913

Sussex pudding . .

.. 605

Calves . .

845

Dripping-pan, ancient

Sweetbreads of . .

9»6

Modem

Caper, the

383

And basting-ladle

.. 580

Capercalzie, the

1026

Duck, Aylesbury

.. 935

Capsicum, the . .

362

Bowbill

. . 936

Carp, the

242

Buenos Ayres

. . 933

Carpet brooms . .

2293

Call

.. 937

Carrots . .

1100

Roast

. . 93 4

Cauliflower, the

1104

,, to carve a . .

.. 939

Boiled

1104

Rouen

Celery

441

Wild

.. 1022

In glass

1107

„ roast

Char, the

243

„ „ to carve a

.. 1055

Charlotte aux pommes
Cheese glass . .

1418

1640

Eel, the . .

.. 249

Hot-water dish for

1 651

Egg poacher, tin

.. 1663

Stilton

l(i39

Stand for breakfast-table

.. 1656

Cherry

1261

Eggs, basket of

.. 1667

Chervil

1151

Comparative sizes of

.. 1665

Chestnut

124

Fried on bacon . .

.. 1659

Chocolate; box of

1598

Poached, on toast

.. 1663

Mill

1807

Elder-berries

.. 1818

Christinas pudding, & c.

11/5

Endive

Chub, the

243

Ewe, heath

.. 690

Cinnamon

524

Leicester . .

. . 682

Citron, the

1436

Romney-Marsli ..

.. 631

Claret-cup

1831

South- Down

.. 687

Clove, the
Coal, sections of
Cocoa-bean

367

Fennel . .

. . 412

1815

Figs, compote of

.. 1541

Nut and blossom

125

Fish

,, palm ..

125

Flounders

Cod, the

231

Flowers and fruit .. 61, 103, 584, 925

Cod’s head and shoulders,

to carve a 7

• 174

Fowl, black bantams . .

.. 939

Coffee . .

1811

Black Spanisli

.. 962

Colander, ancient

Boiled

. . 938

Modern

,, to carve a . .

.. 1000

Coriander

1/4

Cochin-China

.. 942

Cork, with wooden top

416

Dorking

.. 940

Cow and bull, Alderney

592

Feather-legged bantams

. 958

Galloway . .

593

Game

.. 938

Long-horn. .

591

Guinea

. . 970

Short-horn

590

Pencilled Hamburg's

.. 955

Crab, the

245

Roast

. . 952

Crayfish

193

„ to carve a . .
Sebright bantams

.. 1001

Cream-mould . .

1430

.. 36l

Crumpets

1/28

Spangled Polands

.. 941

Cucumber, the

402,

1111

Speckled Hamburgs

. . 959

Slice

1152

Sultans

.. 963

Sliced

Fritter mould, star . .

.. 14/3

Currants

1266

Scroll

.. 1474

Zante

1264

Fruit, dish of, mixed . .

.. 1698

Custards, in glasses . .

1423

Dish of, mixed summer. .

.. 1598

Cygnet

998

Dace, the
Damson, the ..

243

Game

Garlic

.. 100G
.. 3j)2

1270

Gherkius

. . 428

Deer, the

Eland, bull and cow

444

Ginger ..

1051

Gingerbread

. . 1760

Tallow, buck and doe ..

1050

Glass measure, graduated . .

•• 77.

XX XVI

THE EOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT,

Gor se, Emden

Paragraph
.. 968

Roast

.. 1002

„ to carve a . .

.. 1002

Toulouse

.. 909

Gooseberry

. . 429

Grape, raisin

.. 1324

Sultana

.. 1326

Gridiron, ancient

Modern

Revolving

.. 569

Grouse, red

.. 1025

Roast . . , . . .

.. 1025

,, to carve a

Gudgeon, the

,. 1058

.. 261

Gurnet, the

.. 262

Haddock, the .. ..

.. 263

Ham, boiled

.. 811

To carve

.. 843

Hare, the common

170, 1027

Roast

.. 1027

,, to carve a..

.. 1056

Herring, the

.. 268

Horseradish

.. 447

Hotplate

. . 568

Housemaid’s box

.. 2294

Ice-pail and spattlc . .

.. 1290

Ices, dish of

.. 1556

Jack-bottle

. . 580

Jam-pot .. .. .. ..

.. 1532

Jar-potting

.. 642

Jellies, &c

.. 1385

Jelly, bag

.. 1411

Mould

1411, 1416

,, oval

.. 1449

Moulded with cherries . .

.. 1440

Of two colours . .

.. 1441

Open with whipped cream

.. 1453

John Dory

.. 218

Kettle, glaze

.. 420

1* ish • • . . • •

. . 225

Gravy

.. 422

Kidneys . .

. . 724

K nil c- cl caning machine

.. 5123

Lamb, fore- quarter of

.. 750

>. ,, ,, to carve a .. 764

Leg of

.. 752

Loin of

.. 753

Ribs of

.. 754

Saddle of

.. 754

Side of

.. 701

Lamprey, the

.. 256

Landrail, the

.. 1033

Leaf in puff paste

.. 1245

Pastry

.. 1492

Leeks

.. 134

Lemon, the

405, 1296

Cream mould

.. 1443

Dumplings

.. 1294

Lentil, the , , . . . .

.. 126

Lettuce, the

.. 136

Lobster, the

. . 270

Paragraph

Macaroni 135

Macaroons 1714

Mace 371

Mackerel, the 281

Maize, ear of 1721

Plant 1721

Marjoram 415

Marrow-bones^ 635

Meringues 1451

Milking cow 1608

Millet, Italian 1718

Panicled 1733

Mince pies 1311

Mint 469

Mould, baked pudding or cake .. 1329
Blancmange .. .. 1408, 1442

Boiled pudding .. .. 1196-8

Cake .. .. 1756, 1/61, 1772

Cream 1430

For Christmas plum- pudding . . 1 328

For an open tart 1365

Iced pudding 1289

Jelly 1411, 1416

„ oval 1449

Lemon cream 1443

Open 1454, 1463

Raised pie, closed and open . . 1 190

Raspberry cream 1475

Vanilla cream 1190

Muffins 1727

Mulberry, the 1560

Mullet, grey 284

Striped red 285

Mushroom, the 473

Mushrooms 1 125

Broiled .. 1125

Mustard.. .. 450

Mutton, cutlets 732

Haunch of. . . . . . . . 726

,, to carve a .. .. 759

Leg of 727

,, to carve a .. .. 760

Loin of 728

,, to carve a .. .. 761

Neck of 737

Saddle' of 738

„ to carve a 762

Side of, showing the several joints 695

Shoulder of 739

„ to can e a . . . . 763

Nasturtiums .. 482

Nutmeg, the 378

Nuts, dish of 1598

Olive, the' . . . . . . . . 506

Omelet 1456

Pan 1458

Onion, the 139

Orange, the 1314

Oranges, compote of . . . . .. 156s

Oyster, edible . . . . . . ■ . 286

Pail, house 2327

Pancakes .. .. .. .. 1467

Parsley 4p3

Parsnip, the 1132

ANALYTICAL INDEX. — ENGRAVINGS,

XXXV11

Paragraph

Partridge, the

1039

Quadrupeds

585

Roast

1039

Quail, the

1046

,, to carve a

1057

Quern, or grinding-mill

117

Paste, board and rolling-pin

1186

Quince, the

1233

Cutter and corner-cutter

1189

Ornamental cutter

1189

Rabbit, Angora

. .

935

Pincers and jagger

1186

Boiled

. •

977

Patty-pans, plain and fluted

1190

,, to carve a

. .

1004

Fea, the

113

Hare, the . .

. .

985

Peach, the

1169

Himalaya . .

. .

985

Pear, bon Chretien

1576

Lop-eared . .

984

Pears, stewed . .

15/6

Roast

983

Peas, green

1135

,, to carve a

. .

1004

Pepper, black

369

Wild

. .

978

Long

399

Radish, long . .

1152

Perch, the

292

Turnip

1152

Pestle and Mortar

421

Raisin, grape . .

1324

Pheasant, the

ion

Ram, heath

689

Roast

1041

Leicester . .

683

„ to carve a

1059

Romriey-Marsh and ewe

691

Pickle, Indian

551

South- Down and ewe

687

Pie, raised

1340

Range, modern

. .

Pig, Guinea

997

Raspberry, the . .

1267

Roast, sucking

811

Cream mould

1475

,, ,, to carve a

842

Ratafias . .

1745

Pig’s face

823

Rhubarb. .

1339

Pigs

/65

Rice, casserole of

1350

Pigeon, barb

976

Ears of

150

Blue rock

976

Roach, the

243

Carrier

971

Rolls

1723

Fantail

976

Rusks

1734

Jacobin

976

Nun . .

975

Sage

427

Owl

976

Sago palm

152

Pouter

973

Salad, in bowl . .

1152

Roast

974

Salmon, the

304

Runt . .

975

To carve a . .

. ,

175

To carve a

1003

Salt-mine at Northwich

403

Trumpeter

975

Saucepan, ancient

Tumbler . .

975

Modern

Turbit

976

Sauce -tureen, boat, &c.

354

Wood

975

Sausages, fried. .

638

Pike, the

295

Saute-pan

571

Pimento . .

138

Ancient

68:

Plaice, the

298

Modern

Plover, the

1014

Scales, ancient and modern

Plum, the

1330

Screen, meat . .

582

Plums, box of French

1598

Sea-bream, the

310'

Pork, fore loin of

829

Sea-kale. .

1150

Griskinof

827

Boiled

1150

Hind loin of

829

Shad, the

31 1

Leg of, to carve a . .

844

Shalot, the

410

,, roast

800

Sheep

678

Side of, showing joints . .

795

Heath ram

689

Spare rib of

827

,, ewe

690

Pot, boiling

567

Leicester ram

688

Potato, the

147

,, ewe

689

Pasty pan

1333

Romney-Marsh ram and ewe . .

691

Rissoles

1147

South-Down ram and ewe

687

Sweet

1116

Shortbread

1/80

Potatoes, baked, served in napkin

1136

Shrimp, the

313

Pound cake

1770

Skate, thomback

315

Prawn, the

198

Smelt, the

31R

Ptarmigan, or white grouse

1045

Snipe, the

1047

Pudding, boiled fruit . .

1284

Roast

1047

Cabinet

1256

,, to carve a

1060

Punch-bowl and ladle

1839

Sole, the

• •

320

XXXviii THE BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Paragraph

Sorrel

Souffle- pan

.. 1481

Sow, and pigs . .

. . /65

Berkshire . .

.. 781

Chinese

.. 785

Cumberland

.. 784

Essex

.. 782

Yorkshire ..

.. 783

Spinach

.. 155

Garnished with croutons

.. 1155

Sponge cake

.. 1783

Sprat, the

.. 331

Sprouts, Brussels

.. 109s

Stewpan

.. 567

Stock-pot, ancient

.. 66

Bronze

.. 66

Modem

.. 66

Stove, gas

.. 575

Family kitchener

.. 65

Leamington

65, 5 40

Pompeiian

.. 65

Strawberries, dish of . .

.. 1598

Sturgeon, the . .

.. 332

Sugar-cane, the

.. 1335

Sultana grape, the

.. 1326

Swans . .

r. 54

Tarragon

... 503

Tart, open

.. 1365

Open mould for a

.. 1365

Plum

.. 1331

Tartlets, dish of

.. 13/1

Tazza and carrot leaves

.. 121

Tea

.. 1814

Teacakes

•• 1787

Tench, the

.. 334

Thyme, lemon . .

.. 458

Tipsy cake

.. 148/

Tomato, the

.. 529

Tomatoes, stewed

.. 1159

Trifle

.. 1489

Trout, the

. . 336

Truffles

.. 1161

Turbot, the

. . 338

Kettle

. . 338

To carve a

V • 1/6

Tureen, soup . .

Turkey, boiled . .

.. 986

Roast

.. 990

,, to carve a..

.. 1005

Paragraph

Turnip .. 157

Turnips 1163

Turret on old Abbey kiteben . . 62

. Turtle, the 189

Urns, I.oysell’s hydrostatic . . .. 1810

Utensils for cooking, ancient and
modem 66-8

Vanilla cream mould 1 490

Veal, breast of 837

„ to carve a .. .. 912

Cutlets 866

Fillet of 872

,, to carve a .. .. 914

Fricandeau of 874

Knuckle of 885

,, to carve a .. .. 915

Loin of 885

,, to carve a .. .. 916

Vegetable, cutter 1172

Strips of 131

Vegetable marrow 158

In white sauce 1173

On toast 1170

Vegetables 1069

Cellular development of .. 1075

Siliceous cuticles of .. .. 1075

Venison, haunch of 1061

,, roast .. .. 1049

„ to carve a .. 1061

Vermicelli .. 162

Vessels for beverages .. .. 1789

Vol-au-vent » .. 1379

Small 1379

Walnut, the . . . . . . . 536

Wheat 17 79

Egyptian, or mummy .. .. 1783

Polish 1/22

Red winter 1/19

Whitebait 348

Whiting, the 343

Window and flowers .. .. .. 75

Wirebasket 494

Woodcock, the 1053

Roast 1053

Scotch .. 1653

To carve a 1062

Yorkshire pudding 1384

ANALYTICAL INDEX. — COLOURED TLATES.

XXXIX

COLOURED PLATES.

Page

Apples in custard

.. 667

Mutton, saddle of roast

. .

331

Shoulder of roast. .

. .

277

Beef, round of, boiled

.. 373

•

Roast sirloin of . .

.. 277

Oysters, scalloped

115

Calf’s head, boiled

.. 331

Partridge

, ,

513

Charlotte aux pommes

.. 667

Pheasant

513-

Cod’s head and shoulders . .

.. 113

Pie, raised

. .

667

Crab, dressed

Pig, sucking, roast or baked

. .

373

Pigeon

. .

537

Buck, wild

.. 513

Plum-pudding, Christmas,

iii mould 667

Ducks, couple of, roast

.. 443

Rabbit, boiled . .

513

Eggs, poached, and spinach

. . 415

Or fowl, curried . .

415

Raspberry cream

755

Frontispiece. The Free, Fair Homes

Rissoles

415

of England . . . .

Fowl, boiled with cauliflower

.. 443

Salmon, boiled . .

113

Roast, with watercresses

.. 443

Snipe

537

Fruits, centre dish of various

.. 755

Soles, dish of filleted . .

113

Spinach and poached eggs

415

Goose, roast

.. 537

Strawberries, au naturel,

oma-

Grouse . t

mental flower-pot . .

755

Ham, cold glazed

.. 331

Tongue, cold boiled . .

277

Hare, roast

.. 513

Trifle

755»

Turbot, or brill, boiled
Turkey, roast . .

Jelly, two colours of . .

.. 755

4 43

Lobsters, dressed

.. 145

Veal, fricandeau of . .

415

Yol-au-vent

667

Mackerel, boiled

.. 141

Mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes 415

Whiting, dish of, fried

141

Haunch of roast . .

.. 373

Woodcock

537J,

THE BOOK

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

CHAPTER I.

THE MIS THE S S.

" StmigHj nub tjowmr arc Ijcr tlotbing; nub sjjc shall rejoice in time lo
tome. S>j)c ojjcrtctlj Ijcr montjj luitlj loisbom ; aub in jicr longue is % Iain
of hinbness. SIk lookeib Co ell lo Ike (nans of Ijct bouscjjolb ; anb tnlclb
not ibc breab of iblcitess. |)cr tbilbreu arise up, anb tall Jicr blesseb; ber
busbanb also, anb be praisctl; ber.” — Proverbs, xxxi. 25—28.

i. As with the Commander of an Army, or the leader of any enter-prise,
so is it with the mistress of a house. Her spirit will be seen through tho
whole establishment ; and just in proportion as she performs her duties intel-
ligently and thoroughly, so will her domestics follow in her path. Of all those
acquirements, which more particularly belong to the feminine character, there
are none which take a higher rank, in our estimation, than such as enter into
a knowledge of household duties ; for on these are perpetually dependent tho
happiness, comfort, and well-being of a family. In this opinion we are borne
out by the author of “The Vicar of Wakefield,” who says: “The modest
virgin, the prudent wife, and the careful matron, are much more serviceable
in life than petticoated philosophers, blustering heroines, or virago queens.
She who makes her husband and her children happy, who reclaims the ono
from vice and trains up the other to virtue, is a much greater character than
ladies described in romances, whose wholo occupation is to murder mankind
with shafts from their quivor, or thoir eyos.”

o. Pursuing this Picture, wo may add, that to bo a good housewife docs
not necessarily imply an abandonment of proper pleasures or amusing recre-
ation ; and wo think it tho more necessary to express this, as tho perform-
ance of the duties of a mistress may, to some minds, perhaps seem to be

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

incompatible with the enjoyment of life. Let us, however, now proceed to
describe some of those home qualities and virtues which are necessary to
the proper management of a Household, and then point out the plan
which may be the most profitably pursued for the daily regulation of its
affairs.

3. Early Rising is one op the most Essential Qualities which enter
into good Household Management, as it is not only the parent of health,
but of innumerable other advantages. Indeed, when a mistress is an early
riser, it is almost certain that her house will bo orderly and well-managed.
On the contrary, if she remain in bed till a late hour, then the domestics,
who, as we have before observed, invariably partake somewhat of their
mistress’s character, will surely become sluggards. To self-indulgence all
are more or less disposed, and it is not to be expected that servants are
freer from this fault than the heads of houses. The great Lord Chatham
thus gave his advice in reference to this subject : — “ I would have inscribed
on the curtains of your bed, and the walls of your chamber, ‘ If you do not
rise early, you can make progress in nothing.’ ”

4. Cleanliness is also indispensable to Health, and must bo studied
both in regard to the person and the house, and all that it contains. Cold
or tepid baths should be employed every morning, unless, on account of illness
or other circumstances, they should bo deemed objectionable. The bathing
of children will be treated of under the head of ‘‘Management op
Children.”

5. Frugality -and Economy are Home Virtues, without which no
household can prosper. Dr. Johnson says: “Frugality may bo termed
the daughter of Prudence, the sistor of Temperance, and tho parent of
Liberty. He that is extravagant will quickly become poor, and poverty
will enforce dependence and invite corruption.” The necessity of practising
economy should be evident to every one, whether in the possession of au
income no more than sufficient for a family’s requirements, or of a large
fortune, which puts financial adversity out of the question. We must always
remember that it is a great merit in housekeeping to manage a little well.
“ Ho is a good waggoner,” says Bishop Hall, “ that can turn in a little room.
To live woll in abundance is the praise of the estate, not of the person. I will
study more how to give a good account of my little, than how to make it
more.” In this there is true ■wisdom, and it may bo added, that those who
can manage a little well, are most likely to succeed in then* management of
larger matters. Economy and frugality must nover, however, be allowed to
degenerate into parsimony and meanness.

6. The Choice op Acquaintances is very important to the happiness
of a mistress and her family. A gossiping acquaintance, who indulges in tho

THE MISTRESS.

scandal and ridicule of her neighbours, should be avoided as a pestilence. It
is likewise all-necessary to beware, as Thomson sings,

“ The whisper’d tale.

That, like the fabling Nile, no fountain knows ; —

Fair-faced Deceit, whose wily, conscious eye
Ne’er looks direct ; the tongue that licks the dust
But, when it safely dares, as prompt to sting.”

If the duties of a family do not sufficiently occupy the time of a mistress,
society should be formed of such a kind as will tend to the mutual interchange
of general and interesting information.

7. Friendships should not be hastily formed, nor the heart given, at
once, to every new-comer. There are ladies who uhiformly smile at, and
approve everything and everybody, and who possess neither the courage to
reprehend vice, nor the generous warmth to defend virtue. The friendship
of such persons is without attachment, and their love without affection el-
even preference. They imagine that every one who has any penetration is
ill-natured, and look coldly on a discriminating judgment. It should be
remembered, however, that this discernment does not always proceed from
an uncharitable temper, but that those who possess a long experience anil
thorough knowledge of the world, scrutinise the conduct and dispositions of
people before they trust themselves to the first fair appearances. Addison,
who was not deficient in a knowledge of mankind, observes that “ a friend-
ship, which makes the least noise, is very often tho most useful ; for which
reason, I should prefer a prudent friend to a zealous one.” And Joanna
Baillie tells us that

“ Friendship is no plant of hasty growth,

Though planted in esteem’s deep-fixbd soil,

The gradual culture of kind intercourse
Must bring it to perfection.”

8. Hospitality is a most Excellent Virtue; but care must be taken
that the love of company, for its own sake, does not become a prevailing
passion ; for then the habit is no longer hospitality, but dissipation. Reality
and truthfulness in this, as in all other duties of life, are the points to be
studied ; for, as Washington Irving well says, “ There is an emanation from
tho heart in genuine hospitality, which cannot bo described, but is imme-
diately felt, and puts tho stranger at once at his oase.” With respect to
the continuance of friendships, however, it may be found necessary, in some
cases, for a mistress to relinquish, on assuming tho responsibility of a house-
hold, many of those commenced in the earlier part of her life. This will bo
tho more requisite, if the number still retained bo quite equal to hor means
and opportunities.

ftS, B 2

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

9. In Conversation, Trifling Occurrences, such as small disappoint-
ments, potty annoyances, and other every-day incidents, should never lie
mentioned to your friends. The extreme injudiciousness of repeating these
will be at once apparent, when wo reflect on tho unsatisfactory discussions
which they too frequently occasion, and on the load of advice which they are
the cause of being tendered, and which is, too often, of a kind neither to be
useful nor agreeable. Greater events, whether of joy or sorrow, should be
communicated to friends ; and, on such occasions, their sympathy gratifies
and comforts. If the mistress be a wife, never let an account of her
husband’s failings pass her lips ; and in cultivating the power of conversa-
tion, she should keep the versified advico of Cowper continually in her memory,
that it

“ Should flow like water after summer showers,

Not as if raised by mere mechanic powers."

In reference to its style, Dr. Johnson, who was himself greatly distinguished
for his colloquial abilities, says that “ no style is more extensively accept-
able than the narrative, because this does not carry an air of superiority over
the rest of the company ; and, therefore, is most likely to please them. For
this purpose we should store our memory with short anecdotes and enter-
taining pieces of history. Almost every one listens with eagerness to extem-
porary history. V anity often co-operates with curiosity ; for he that is a
hearer in one place wishes to qualify himself to be a principal speaker in
some inferior company ; and therefore more attention is given to narrations
than anything else in conversation. It is true, indeed, that sallies of wit
and quick replies are very ideasing in conversation ; but they frequently tend
to raise envy in some of the company : but the narrative way neither raises
this, nor any other evil passion, but keeps all the company nearly upon an
equality, and, if judiciously managed, will at once entertain and improve
them all.”

10. Good Temper should be cultivated by every mistress, as upon it
tho welfare of the household may be said to turn ; indeed, its influence can
hardly be over-estimated, as it has tho effect of moulding the characters of
those around her, and of acting most beneficially on the happiness of tho
domestic circle. Every head of a liousohold should strive to be cheerful, and
should never fail to show a deep interest in all that appertains to tho well-
being of those who claim the protection of her roof. Gentleness, not partial
and temporaiy, but universal and regular, should pervade her conduct ; for
where such a spirit is habitually manifested, it not only delights her children,
but makes her domestics attentive and respectful ; her visitors are also
pleased by it, and their happiness is increased.

n. On the Important Subject of Dress and Fashion wo cannot do
hotter than quote an opinion from tho eighth volume of the “ Englishwoman's

THE JUSTNESS.

Domestic Magazine.” The writer there says, “ Let people write, talk, lecture,
satirize, as they may, 'it cannot be denied that, whatever is the prevailing-
mode in attire, let it intrinsically be ever -so absurd, it will never looh as
ridiculous as another, or as any other, which, however convenient, comfort-
able, or even becoming, is totally opposite in style to that generally
worn.”

12. In Purchasing Articles of Wearing Apparel, whether it be a
silk dress, a bonnet, shawl, or riband, it is well for the buyer to consider
three things : I. That it be not too expensive for her purse. II. That its
colour harmonize with her complexion, and its size anti pattern with her
figure. III. That its tint allow of its being worn with the other garments
she possesses. The quaint Fuller observes, that the good wife is none of our
dainty dames, who love to appear in a variety of suits every day new, as if
a gown, like a stratagem in war, were to be used but once. But our good
wife sets up a sail according to the keel of her husband’s estate ; and, if of
high parentage, she doth not so remember what she was by birth, that she
forgets what she is by match.

To Brunettes, or those ladies having dark complexions, silts of a grave hue are
adapted. For Blondes, or those having fair complexions, lighter colours are preferable,
ns the richer, deeper hues are too overpowering for the latter. The colours which go
best together are green with violet; gold-colour with dark crimson or lilac; pale blue
with scarlet ; pink with black or white ; and gray with scarlet or pink. A cold colour
generally requires a warm tint to give life to it. Gray and pale blue, for instance, do
not combine well, both being cold colours.

13. The Dress of toe Mistress should always be adapted to her circum-
stances, and be varied with different occasions. Thus, at breakfast she
should be attired in a very neat and simple manner, wearing no ornaments.
If this dress should decidedly pertain only to the breakfast-hour, and be
specially suited for such domestic occupations as usually follow that meal,
then it would be well to exchange it before the time for receiving visitors,
if the mistress be in the habit of doing so. It is still to be remembered,
however, that, in changing the dress, jewellery and ornaments aro not
to be worn until the full dress for dinner is assumed. Further information
and hints on the subject of the toilet will appear under the department of
the “ Lady’s-Maid.”

The advice ofPolonius to his son Laertes, in Sliakspeare’s tragedy of “Hamlet,”
is most excellent; and although given to one of the male sex, will equally apply to a
“fayreladye:"—

“ Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,

Hut not express’d in fancy; rich, not gaudy;

For the apparel oft proclaims the man.”

14. Charity and Benevolence are duties which a mistress owes to
herself as well as to her fellow-creatures; and there is scarcoly any income so
small, but something may bo spared from it, oven if it be but “ the widow’s
mite. ’ It is to bo always remomborod, however, that it is the spirit of charity

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

which, imparts to the gift a valuo far beyond its actual amount, and is by far
its better part. #

True Ghai-ity, a plant divinely nursed,

Fed by tho love from which it rose at first,

Thrives against hope, and, in the rudest scene,

Storms but enliven its unfading green ;

Exub’raut is tho shadow it supplies.

Its fruit on earth, its growth above the skies.

Visiting the houses of the poor is tho only practical way really to understand the actual
state of each family ; and although there may be difficulties in following out this plan in
the metropolis and other large cities, yet in country towns and rural districts these
objections do not obtain. Great advantages may result from visits paid to the poor ; for
there being, unfortunately, much ignorance, generally, amongst them with respect to all
household knowledge, there will be opportunities for advising and instructing them,
in a pleasant and unobtrusive manner, in cleanliness, industry, cookery, and good
management.

15. In Marketing, that the Best Articles are the Cheapest, may
be laid down as a rule ; and it is desirable, unless an experienced and confi-
dential housekeeper be kept, that the mistress should herself purchase all
provisions and stores needed for the house. If the mistress be a young wife,
and not accustomed to order “ things for the house,” a little practice and
experience will soon teach her who are the best tradespeople to deal with,
and what are the best provisions to buy. Under each particular head of
Fish, Meat, Poultry, Game, &c., will be described the proper means of
ascertaining the quality of these comestibles.

16. A Housekeeping Account-book should invariably be kept, and kept
punctually and precisely. The plan for keeping household accounts, which we
should recommend, would be to make an entry, that is, write down into a
daily diary every amount paid on that particular day, be it ever so small ;
then, at the end of the month, let these various payments be ranged under
their specific heads of Butcher, Baker, kc. ; and thus will be seen the pro-
portions paid to each tradesman, and any one month’s expenses may bo con-
trasted with another. The housekeeping accounts should be balanced not less
than once a month ; so that you may see that the money you have in hand
tallies with your account of it in your diary. J udge Ilaliburton never wrote
truer words than when he said, “ No man is rich whose expenditure exceeds
Ins means, and no one is poor whose incomings exceed his outgoings.”

When, in a largo establishment, a housekeeper is kept, it will be advisable for the
mistress to examine her accounts regularly. Then any mcrense of expenditure which
may bo apparent, can easily be explained, and the housekeeper will have the satisfaction
of knowing whether her efforts to manage her department well and economically , have
beeu successful.

17. Engaging Domestics is one of those duties in which tho judgment
of tho mistress must bo kconly exorcised. Thoro aro some mspoctablo
registry-offices, whore good servants may sometimes be hired ; but the plan
rathep to bo recommended is, for tho mistress to make inquiry amongst her

THE MISTRESS.

circle of friends and acquaintances, and her tradespeople. The latter gene-
rally know those in their neighbourhood, who are wanting situations, and
will communicate with them, when a personal interview with some of them
will enable the mistress to form some idea of the characters of the applicants,
and to suit herself accordingly.

We would here point out an error— and a*grave one it is — into which some mistresses
fall. They do not, when engaging a servant, expressly tell her all the duties which she
will he expected to perform. This is an act of omission severely to be reprehended.
Every portion of work which the maid will have to do, should be plainly stated by the
mistress, and understood by the servant. If this plan is not carefully adhered to,
domestic contention is almost certain to ensue, and this may not be easily settled: so
that a change of servants, which is so much to be deprecated, is continually occurring.

18. In obtaining a Servant’s Character, it is not well to bo guided
by a written one from some unknown quarter ; but it is better to have an
interview, if at all possible, with the former mistress. By this means you
will be assisted in your decision of the suitableness of the servant for your
place, from the appearance of the lady and the state of her house. Negligence
and want of cleanliness in her and her household generally, will naturally
lead you to the conclusion, that her servant has suffered from the influence of
the bad example.

The proper course to pursue in order to obtain a personal interview with the lady
is this : — The servant in search of the situation must be desired to see her former mis-
tress, and ask her to he kind enough to appoint a time, convenient to herself, when you
may call on her ‘ this proper observance of courtesy being necessary to prevent any
unseasonable intrusion on the part of a stranger. Your first questions should be relative
to the honesty and general morality of her former servant ; and if no objection is stated
in that respect, her other qualifications are then to be ascertained. Inquiries should
be very minute, so that you may avoid disappointment and trouble, by knowing the
weak points of your domestic.

19. The Treatment of Servants is of the highest possible moment, as
well to the mistress as to the domestics themselves. On the bead of the
bouse the latter will naturally fix their attention ; and if they perceive that
the mistress’s conduct is regulated by high and correct principles, they will
not fail to respect her. If, also, a benevolent desire is shown to promote
their comfort, at the same time that a steady performance of their duty is
exacted, then their respect will not be unmingled with affection, and they
will be still more solicitous to continue to deserve her favour.

20. In giving a Character, it is scarcely necessary to say that the mistress
should be guided by a sense of strict justice. It is not fair for one lady to
recommend to another, a servant she would not keep herself. The benefit,
too, to the servant herself is of small advantage ; for the failings which she
possesses will increase if suffered to be indulged with impunity. It is hardly
necessary to remark, on the otlior hand, that no angry feelings on the part of a
mistress towards her late servant, should ever be allowod, in the slightest degree,
to infludnee her, so far as to induce her to disparage her maid’s character.

21. The following Table of the Average Yearly Wages paid to
domestics, with the various members of the household placed in the order

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

in which they aro usually ranked, will serve as a guide to regulate the
expenditure of an establishment : —

The House Steward...

The Valet

The Butler

The Cook

The Gardener

The Footman

The Under Butler ...

The Coachman

The Groom

The Under Footman
The Page or Footboy
The Stableboy

When not found in
Liverj’.

. From £40 to £80

,, 25 to 50

. „ 25 to 50

. „ 20 to 40

. „ 15 to 30

15 to 30

8 to 18
6 to 12

When found in
Livery.

From £20 to £30

The Housekeeper

The Lady’s-maid

The Head Nurse

The Cook

The Upper Housemaid ...
The Upper Laundry-maid

The Maid-of-all-work

The Under Housemaid ...

The Still-room Maid

The Nursemaid

The Under Laundry-maid

The Kitchen-maid

The Scullery-maid

When no extra When an extra

allowance is made for allowance is made for
Tea, Sugar, and Beer. Tea, Sugar, and Beer.

From

£20 to £15

From

£18

to £40

12 to

15 to

14 to

12 to

9 to

8 to

9 to

8 to

. 5

9 to

5 to

These quotations of wages arc those usually given in or near the metropolis; but, of
course, there are many circumstances connected with locality, and also having reference
to the long service on the one hand, or the inexperience on the other, of domestics, which
may render the wages still higher or lower than those named above. All the domestics
mentioned in the above table would enter into the establishment of a wealthy nobleman.
The number of servants, of course, would become smaller in proportion to the lesser
size of the establishment ; and we may here enumerate a scale of servants suited to
various incomes, commencing with —

About £1,000 a year — A cook, upper housemaid, nursemaid, under
housemaid, and a man servant.

About £750 a year — A cook, housemaid, nursemaid, and footboy.

About £500 a year — A cook, housemaid, and nursemaid.

About £300 a year — A maid-of-all-work and nursemaid.

About £200 or £150 a year — A maid-of-all-work (and girl occasionally).

■22. Having thus indicated some of tho more general duties of the mistress,
relative to the moral government of her household, wo will now give a few
specific instructions on matters having a more practical relation to tho position
which sho is supposed to occupy in tho eye of the world. To do this the more
clearly, wo will begin with her earliest dutios, and take her completely through
tho occupations of a day.

23. Having risen early, ns we have already advisod (see 3), and having
given due attention to tho bath, and made a careful toilet, it will be well
at onco to see that tho children have received their proper ablutions, and

THE MISTRESS.

<u'o in every way clcmi mid coni for table, The first in col of tlic day, breakfast,
will then be served, at which all the family should be punctually present,
uuless illness, or other circumstances, prevent.

24. After Breakfast is oyer, it will be well for the mistress to make a
round of the kitchen and other offices, to see that all are in order, and that
the morning’s work has been properly performed by the various domestics.
The orders for the day should then be given, and any questions which the
domestics desire to ask, respecting their several departments, should be
answered, and an£ special articles they may require, handed to them from
the store-closet.

In those establishments where there is a housekeeper, it will not he so necessary for
the mistress, personally, to perform the above-named duties.

25. After this General Superintendence of her servants, the mistress,
if a mother of a young family, may devote herself to the instruction of some
of its younger members, or to the examination of the state of their wardrobe,
leaving the later portion of the morning for reading, or for some amusing
recreation. “Kecreation,” says Bishop Hall, “is intended to the mind as
whetting is to the scythe, to sharpen the edge of it/ which would otherwise
grow dull and blunt. He, therefore, that spends his whole time in recreation
is ever whetting, never mowing ; his grass may grow and his steed starve ;
as, contrarily, he that always toils and never recreates, is ever mowing, never
whetting, labouring much to little purpose. As good no scythe as no edge.
Then only doth the work go forward, when the scythe is so seasonably and
moderately whetted that it may cut, and so cut, that it may have the help of
sharpening.”

Unless the means of the mistress be very circumscribed, and she be obliged to devote
a great deal of her time to the making of her children’s clothes, and other economical
pursuits, it is right that she should give some time to the pleasures of literature, the
innocent delights of the garden, and to the improvement of any special abilities for
music, painting, and other elegant arts, which she may, happily, possess.

26. These Duties and Pleasures being performed and enjoyed, the
hour of luncheon will have arrived. This is a very necessary meal between
an early breakfast and a lato dinner, as a healthy person, with good exerciso,
should have a fresh' supply of food once in four hours. It should be a light
meal ; but its solidity must, of course, be, in some degree, proportionate to
the time it is intended to enable you to wait for your dinner, and tho amount
of exercise you take in the mean time. At this time, also, the servants’
dinner will be served.

In those establishments where an early dinner is served, that will, of courso, take tho
place of the luncheon. In many houses, where a nursery dinner is provided for the
children at about one o’clock, the mistress and the elder portion of the family make their
luncheon at the same time from the same joint, or whatever may be provided. A
mistress will arrange, according to circumstances, the serving of tho meal ; but the more
usual plan is for the lady of tho house to have the joint brought to her table, and
afterwards carried to tho nursery.

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

•27. After Luncheon, Morning Calls and Visits may be made and
received. These may be divided under three heads: those of ceremony,
friendship, and congratulation or condolence. Visits of ceremony, or courtesy,
which occasionally merge into those of friendship, are to be paid under
various circumstances. Thus, they are uniformly required after dining at a
friend’s house, or after a ball, picnic, or any other party. These visits should
be short, a stay of from fifteen to twenty minutes being quite sufficient. A
lady paying a visit may remove her boa or neckerchief ; but neither her shawl
nor bonnet.

When other visitors are announced, it is well to retire as soon as possible, taking care
to let it appear that their arrival is not the cause. When they are quietly seated, and
the bustle of their entrance is over, rise from your chair, taking a kind leave of the
hostess, and bowing politely to the guests. Should you call at an inconvenient time, not
having ascertained the luncheon hour, or from any other inadvertence, retire as soon as
possible, without, however, showing that you feel yourself an intruder. It is not difficult
for any well-bred or even good-tempered person, to know what to say on such an occasion,
and, on politely withdrawing, a promise can be made to call agaiu, if the lady you have
called on, appear really disappointed.

28. In Paying Visits op Friendship, it will not be so necessary to be
guided by etiquette as in paying visits of ceremony ; and if a lady be pressed
by her friend to remove her shawl and bonnet, it can be done if it will
not interfere with her subsequent arrangements. It is, however, requisite
to call at suitable times, and to avoid staying too long, if your friend is
engaged. The courtesies of society should ever be maintained, even in the
domestic circle, and amongst the nearest friends. During these visits, tho
manners should be easy and cheerful, and the subjects of conversation such
as may be readily terminated. Serious discussions or arguments are to be
altogether avoided, and there is much danger and impropriety in expressing
opinions of those persons and characters with whom, perhaps, there is but a
slight acquaintance. (See 6, 7, and 9.)

It is not advisable, at any time, to take favonrite dogs into another lady’s drawing-
room, for many persons have an absolute dislike to such animals ; and besides this, there
is always a chance of a breakage of some article occurring, through their leaping and
bounding here and there, sometimes very much to the fear and annoyance of the hostess.
Her children, also, unless they are particularly well-trained and orderly, and she is on
exceedingly friendly terms with tho hostess, should not accompany a lady in making
moruing calls. Where a lady, however, pays her visits in n carriage, the children can
be taken in the vehicle, and remain in it until the visit is over.

29. For Morning Calls, it is well to bo neatly attired ; for a costume
very different to that you generally wear, or anything approaching an
evening dress, will be very much out of place. As a general rule, it may
be said, both in reference to this and all othor occasions, it is better to bo
under-dressed than ovor-dressod.

A strict account should bo kept of ceremonial visits, and notice how soon your visits
have been returned. An opinion may thus bo formed as to whether your frequent visits
arc, or are not, desirable. There are, naturally, instances when the circumstances of old
age or ill health will preclude any return of a call; but when this is the case, it must not
interrupt tho dischargo of the duty.

30. In Paying Visits op Condolence, it is to bo remembered that they

THE MISTRESS.

should be paid within a week after the event which occasions them. If the
acquaintance, however, is but slight, then immediately after the family has
appeared at public worship. A lady should send in her card, and if her
friends be able to receive her, the visitor’s manner and conversation should
be subdued and in harmony with tlie character of her visit. Courtesy would
dictate that a mourning card should be used, and that visitors, in paying
condoling visits, should be dressed in black, either silk or plain-coloured
apparel. Sympathy with the affliction of the family, is thus expressed, and
these attentions are, in such cases, ideasing and soothing.

In all these visits, if your acquaintance or friend be not at home, a card should be left.
If in a carriage, the servant will answer your inquiry and receive your card; if paying
your visits on foot, give your card to the servant in the hall, but leave to go in and rest
should on no account be asked. The form of words, “ Hot at home,” maybe understood
in different senses ; but the only courteous way is to receive them as being perfectly true.
You may imagine that the lady of the house is really at home, and that she would make
an exception in your favour, or you may think that your acquaintance is not desired ;
but, in either case, not the slightest word, is to escape you, which would suggest, on your
part, such an impression.

31. In Receiving Morning Calls, the foregoing description of the
etiquette to be observed in paying them, will be of considerable service. It
is to be added, however, that the occupations of drawing, music, or reading
should be suspended on the entrance of morning visitors. If a lady, however,
be engaged with light needlework, and none other is appropriate in the
drawing-room, it may not be, under some circumstances, inconsistent with
good breeding to quietly continue it during conversation, particularly if the
visit be protracted, or the visitors be gentlemen.

Formerly the custom was to accompany all visitors quitting the house to the door, and
there take leave of them ; but modern society, which has thrown off a great deni of this
land of ceremony, now merely requires that the lady of the house should rise from her
seat, shake hands, or courtesy, in accordance with the intimacy she has with her guests,
and ring the bell to summon the servant to attend them and open the door. In making
a first call, either upon a, newly-married couple, or persons newly arrived in the neigh-
bourhood, a lady should leave her husband’s card together with her own, at the same
tijne, stating that the profession or business in which he is engaged has prevented
him irom having the pleasure of paying the visit, with her. It is a custom with many
ladies, when on the eve of an absence from their neighbourhood, to leave or send their
own and husband’s cards, with the letters P. P. C. in the right-hand comer. These
letters are the initials of the French words, “ Pour prendre conge,” meaning, “ To take
leave.”

32. The Morning Calls being paid or received, and then- etiquette
properly attended to, tho next great event of the day in most establishments
is “ The Dinner and we only propose here to make a few general remarks
on this important topic, as, in future pages, the whole “Art of Dining”
will be thoroughly considered, with reference to its economy, comfort, and
enjoyment.

33. In giving or accepting an Invitation eor Dinner, the following is
the form of words generally made use of. They, however, can bo varied in
proportion to the intimacy or position of the hosts and guosts : —

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Mr. and Mrs. A present their compliments to Mr. and

Mrs. B , and request the honour, [or hope to have the pleasure] of

their company to dinner on Wednesday, tho 6th of December next.

A Street,

November 13 th, 1859. It. S. V. P.

The letters in the corner imply “ Repondez, s'il vous ylvut meaning,
“an answer will oblige.” The reply, accepting the invitation, is couched in
the following terms : —

Mr. and Mrs. B present their compliments to Mr. and

Mrs. A , and will do themselves the honour of, [or will have much

pleasure in] accepting their kind invitation to dinner on the Gth of Decem-
ber next.

B Square,

November IS th, 1859.

Cards, or invitations for a dinner-party, should be issued a fortnight or three weeks
(sometimes even a month) beforehand, and care should be taken by the hostess, in the
selection of the invited guests, that they should be suited to each other. Much also of
the pleasure of a dinner-party will depend on the arrangement of the guests at table, so
as to form a due admixture of talkers and listeners, the grave and the gay. If an invita-
tion to dinner is accepted, the guests should be punctual, and the mistress ready in her
drawing-room to receive them. At some periods it has beeu considered fashionable to
come lute to dinner, but lately nous avons change tout cela.

34. The Hale-hour before Dinner has always been considered as the
great ordeal through which the mistress, in giving a dinner-party, will either
pass with flying colours, or, lose many of her laurels. The anxiety to receive
her guests, — her hope that all will be present in due time, — her trust in tho
skill of her cook, and the attention of the other domestics, all tend to make
these few minutes a trying time. The mistress, however, must display no
kind of agitation, but show her tact in suggesting light and cheerful subjects
of conversation, which will bo much aided by the introduction of any par-
ticular new book, curiosity of art, or article of vertu, which may pleasantly
engage the attention of the company. “ Waiting for Dinner,” however, is a
trying time, and there are few who have not felt —

“How sad it is to sit and pine,

The long half-hour before we dine 1
Upon our watches oft to look,

Then wonder at tho clock and cook,
*****

And strive to laugh in spite of Fate !

But laughter forced soon quits the room,

And leaves it in its former gloom.

But lo ! tho dinner now appears.

The object of our hopes and fears,

Tho end of all our pain 1”

Tn giving an entertui nniont of tins kind, the mistress, should remember that it is her
duty to make her guests feel happy, comfortable, uud quite at their euse ; and the guests

TIIE MISTRESS.

should also consider that they have come to the house of their hostess to be happy. Thus
an opportunity is given to all for innocent enjoyment and intellectual improvement, w hen
also acquaintances may be formed that may prove invaluable through life, and lniorma-
tion gained that will enlarge the mind. Many celebrated men and women have been
great talkers ; and, amongst others, the genial Sir Walter Scott, who spoke freely to
every one, and a favourite remark of whom it was, that he never did so without learning
something he didn’t know before. ,

35. Dinner being announced, the host offers his arm to, and places
on his right hand at the dinnei’-table, the lady to whom he desires to pay
most respect, either on account of her age, position, or from her being the
greatest stranger in the party. If this lady be married and her husband
present, the latter takes the hostess to her place at table, and seats himself
at her right hand. The rest of the company follow in couples, as specified
by the master and mistress of the house, arranging the party according to
their rank and other circumstances which may be known to the host and
hostess.

It will be found of great assistance to the placing of a party at the dinner-table, to have
the names of the guests neatly (and correctly) written on small cards, and placed at that
part of the table where it is desired they should sit. With respect, to the number of
guests, it has often been said, that a private dinner-party should consist of not less than
the number of the Graces, or more than that of the Muses. A party of ten or twelve is,
perhaps, in a general way, sufficient to enjoy themselves and be enjoyed. White kid
gloves are worn by ladies at dinner-parties, but should be taken off before the business
of dining commences.

36. The Guests being Seated at the Dinner-table, the lady begins
to help the soup, which is handed round, commencing with the gentleman on
her right and on her left, and continuing in the same order till all are served.
It is generally established as a rule, not to ask for soup or fish twice, as, in so
doing, part of the company maybe kept waiting too long for the second course,
when, perhaps, a little revenge is taken by looking at the awkward consumer
of a second portion. This rule, however, may, under various circumstances, not
be considered as binding.

It 19 not usual, where taking wine is en regie, for a gentleman to ask a lady to take
wine until the fish or soup is finished, and then the gentleman honoured by sitting on the
right of the hostess, may politely inquire if she wfll do him the honour of taking wine
with him . This will act as a signal to the rest of the company, the gentleman of the
house most probably requesting the same pleasuro of the ladies at his right and left. At
many tables, however, the custom or fashion of drinking wine in this manner, is abolished,
and the servant fills the glasses of the guests with the various wines suited to the course
which is in progress.

37. When Dinner is finished, the Dessert is placed on the table,
accompanied with finger-glasses. It is the custom of some gentlemen to wet
a corner of the napkin ; but the hostess, whose behaviour will set the tone
to all the ladies present, will merely wet the tips of her fingers, which will
serve all the purposes required. The French and other continentals have a
habit of gargling the mouth ; but it is a custom which no English gentle-
woman should, in the slightest degree, imitate.

38. When Fruit has been taken, and a glass or two of wine passed
round, the timo will have arrived when the hostess will rise, and thus give

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

the signal for the ladies to leave the gentlemen, and retire to the drawing-
room. The gentlemen of the party will rise at the same time, and he who
is nearest the door, will open it for the ladies, all remaining courteously
standing until the last lady has withdrawn. I)r. Johnson has a curious
paragraph on the effects of a dinner on men. “ Before dinner,” he says,
“ men meet with great inequality of understanding ; and those who are con-
scious of their inferiority have the modesty not to talk. When they havo
drunk wine, every man feels himself happy, and loses that modesty, and grows
impudent and vociferous ; but he is not improved, he is only not sensible of
his defects.” This is rather severe, but there may bo truth in it.

In former times, when the bottle circulated freely amongst the guests, it was necessary
for the ladies to retire earlier than they do at present, for the gentlemen of the company
soon became unlit to conduct themselves with that decorum which is essential in the
presence of ladies. Thanks, however, to the improvements m modern society, and the
high example shown to the nation by its most illustrious personages, temperance is, in
these happy days, a striking feature in the character of a gentleman. Delicacy of con-
duct towards the female sex has increased with the esteem in which they are now
universally held, and thus, the very early withdrawing of the Indies from the dining-room
is to be deprecated. A lull in the conversation will seasonably indicate the moment for
the ladies’ departure.

39. After-dinner Invitations may be given ; by which wo wish to be
understood, invitations for the evening. The time of the arrival of these
visitors will vary according to their engagements, or sometimes will be varied
in obedience to the caprices of fashion. Guests invited for the evening
are, however, generally considered at liberty to arrive whenever it will best
suit themselves, — usually between nine and twelve, unless earlier hours are
specifically named. By this arrangement, many fashionable people and
others, who have numerous engagements to fulfil, often contrive to make
their appearance at two or three parties in the course of one evening.

40. The Etiquette op the Dinner-party Table being disposed of,
let us now enter slightly into that of an evening party or ball. The
invitations issued and accepted for either of these, will be written in the
same style as those already described for a dinner-party. They should be
sent out at least throe weeks before the day fixed for the event, and should
be replied to within a week of their receipt. By attending to these courtesies,
the guests will have time to consider their engagements and prepare their
dresses, and the hostess will, also, know what will be the number of her
party.

If the entertainment is to be simply an evening party, this must bo specified on the
card or note of invitation. Short or verbal invitations, except where persons are
exceedingly intimate, or are very near relations, are very far from proper, although,
of course, in this respect and in many other respects, very much always depends on
tho manner in which the invitation is given. True politeness, however, should be
studied even amongst the nearest friends and relations; for the mechanical forms of
good breeding are of great consequence, and too much familiarity may have, for its
effect, the destruction of friendship.

41. As the Ladies and Gentlemen arrive, each should be shown to
a room exclusively provided for their reception ; and in that set apart for tho

THE MISTRESS.

ladies, attendants should be in waiting to assist in uncloaking, and helping to
arrange the hair and toilet of those who require it. It will he found convenient,
in those cases where the number of guests is large, to provide numbered
tickets, so that they can be attached to the cloaks and shawls of each lady,
a duplicate of which should be handed to the guest. Coffee is sometimes
provided in this, or an ante-room, for those who would like to partake
of it.

42. As the Visitors are announced by the Servant, it is not necessary
for the lady of the house to advance each time towards the door, but merely
to rise from her seat to receive their courtesies and congratulations. If, indeed,
the hostess wishes to show particular favour to some peculiarly honoured
gueste, she may introduce them to others, whbse acquaintance she may
imagine will be especially suitable and agreeable. It is very often the
practice of the master of the house to introduce one gentleman to another,
but occasionally the lady performs this office ; when it will, of course, be
polite for the persons thus introduced to take then- seats together for the
time being.

The custom of non-introduction is very much in vogue in many houses, and guests are
thus left to discover for themselves the position and qualities of the people around them.
The servant, indeed, calls out the names of all the visitors as they arrive, but, in many
instances, mispronounces them ; so that it will not be well to follow this information, as
if it were an unerring guide. In our opinion, it is a cheerless and depressing custom,
although, in thus speaking, we do not allude to the large assemblies of the aristocracy,
hut to the smaller parties of the middle classes.

43. A Separate Eoom or Convenient Buffet should be appropriated
for refreshments, and to which the dancers may retire ; and cakes and biscuits,
with wine negus, lemonade, and ices, handed round. A supper is also mostly
provided at the private parties of the middle classes ; and this requires, on the
part of the hostess, a great deal of attention and supervision. It usually takes
place between' the first and second parts of the programme of the dances, of
which there should he several prettily written or printed copies distributed
about the ball-room.

In private parties, a lady is not to refuse the invitation of a gentleman to dance, unless
she be previously engaged. The hostess must be supposed to have asked to her house
only those persons: whom she knows to be perfectly respectable and of unblemished
character, as well as pretty equal in position; aud thus, to decline the oiler of
any gentleman present, would be a tacit reflection on the master and mistress of the
house. It may be mentioned here, more especially for the young who mil read this
hook, that introductions at balls or evening parties, cease with the occasion that calls
them forth no introduction, at theso times, giving a gentleman a right to address, after-
wards, a lady. She is, consequently, free, next morning, to pass her partner at a ball of
the previous evening without the slightest recognition.

44. The Ball is generally Opened, that is, the first place in the first
quadrille is occupied, by the lady of the house. Whon anything prevents this,
the host will usually lead off tho dance with the lady who is either the highest
in rank, or the greatest stranger. It will bo woll for the hostess, oven if she
be very partial to tho amusement, and a graceful dancer, not to participate in

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

it to any great extent, lost her lady guests should have occasion to complain of
her monopoly of the gentlemen, and other causes of neglect. A few dances
will suffice to show her interest in the entertainment, without unduly trenching
oil the attention due to her guests. In all its parts a ball should be perfect, —
“ The music, and the banquet, and the wine ;

Tho garlands, the rose-odours, and the flowers.”

The hostess or host, during the progress of a ball, will courteously accost and chat
with their friends, and take care that the ladies are furnished with seats, and that those
who wish to dance are provided with partners. A gentle hint from the hostess, conveyed
in a quiet ladylike manner, that certain ladies have remained unengaged during Beveral
dances, is sure not to be neglected by any gentleman. Thus will be studied the com-
fort and enjoyment of the guests, and no lady, in leaving the house, will be able to feel
the chagrin and disappointment of not having been invited to “stand up” in a dance
during the whole of the evening.

45. When ant op the Carriages op the Guests are announced, or tbo
time for their departure arrived, they should make a slight intimation to tbo
hostess, without, however, exciting any observation, that they are about to
depart. If this cannot be done, however, without creating too much bustle,
it will be better for the visitors to retire quietly without taking their leave.
During the course of the week, the hostess will expect to receive from every
guest a call, where it is possible, or cards expressing the gratification expe-
rienced from her entertainment. This attention is due to every lady for the
pains and trouble she has been at, and tends to promote social, kindly
feelings. .

46. Having thus discoursed of parties of pleasure, it will bo an interesting
change to return to the more domestic business of the house, although all the
details we have been giving of dinner-parties, balls, and the like, appertain to
the department of the mistress. Without a knowledge of the etiquette to be
observed on these occasions, a mistress would be unable to enjoy and appre-
ciate those friendly pleasant meetings which give, as it were, a fillip to life,
and make the quiet happy home of an English gentlewoman appear the more
delightful and enjoyable. In their proper places, all that is necessary to be
known respecting the dishes and appearance of the breakfast, dinner, tea,
and supper tables, will be set forth in this work.

47. A Family Dinner at Home, compared with either giving or going to
a dinner-party, is, of course, of much more frequent occurrence, and many
will say, of much greater importance. Both, however, have to bo con-
sidered with a view to their nicety and enjoyment ; and the latter more
particularly with reference to economy. Theso points will be especially
noted in the following pages on “ Household Cookery.” Here we will
only say, that for both mistress and servants, as well in largo as small
households, it will be found, by far, tho better plan, to cook and servo
tho dinner, and to lay the tablocloth and tho sideboard, with tho samo
cleanliness, neatness, and scrupulous exactness, whether it bo for tho mistress
herself alone, a small family, or for “company.” If this rule bo strictly

ME MISPRESS.

adhered to, all will find themselves increase in managing- skill ; whilst a
knowledge of their daily duties will become familiar, and enable them to
meet difficult occasions with ease, and overcome any amount of obstacles.

48. Of the Manner of Passing Evenings at Home, there is none
pleasanter than in such recreative enjoyments as those which relax the mind
from its severer duties, whilst they stimulate it with a gentle delight. Where
there are young people forming a part of the evening circle, interesting and
agreeable pastime should especially be promoted. It is of incalculable benefit
to them that their homes should possess all the attractions of healthfhl amuse-
ment, comfort, and happiness ; for if they do not find pleasure there, they will
seek it elsewhere. It ought, therefore, to enter into the domestic policy of
every parent, to make her children feel that home is the happiest place in the
world ; that to imbue them with this dolicious home-feeling is one of the
choicest gifts a parent can bestow.

Light or fancy needlework often forms a portion of the evening’s recreation for the
ladies of the household, and this may be varied by an occasional game at chess or back-
gammon. It has often been remarked, too, that nothing is more delightful to the
feminine members of a family, than the reading aloud of some good standard work or
amusing publication. A knowledge of polite literature may be thus obtained by the
whole family, especially if the reader is able and willing to explain the more difficult
passages of the book, and expatiate on the wisdom and beauties it may contain. This
plan, in a great measure, realizes the advice of Lord Bacon, who says, “Read not to
contradict and refute, nor to believe and take for granted, nor to find talk and discourse,
but to weigh and consider.”

49. In Retiring for the Night, it is well to remember that early rising
is almost impossible, if late going to bed be the order, or rather disorder,
of the house. The younger members of a family should go early and
at regular hours to their beds, and the domestics as soon as possible after
a reasonably appointed hour. Either the master or the mistress of a houso
should, after all have gone to their separate rooms, see that all is right
with respect to the lights and fires below ; and no servants should, on
any account, be allowed to remain up after the heads of the house have
retired.

50. Having thus gone from Early Rising to Early Retiring, there
remain only now to be considered a few special positions respecting which
the mistress of the house will be glad to receive some specific information.

51. When a Mistress Takes a House in a new locality, it will be
etiquette for her to wait until tho older inhabitants of the neighbourhood call
upon her ; thus evincing a desire, on their part, to becomo acquainted with tho
now comer. It may be, that the mistress will desire an intimate acquaintance
with but few of her neighbours ; but it is to bo specially borne in mind that all
visits, whether of coremony, friendship, or condolence, should bo punctiliously
returned.

HOUSEHOED MANAGEMENT.

52. You MAY PERHAPS have been favoured with letters of introduction
from some of your friends, to persons living in the neighbourhood to which
you have just come. In this case inclose the letter of introduction in an
envelope with your card. Then, if the person, to whom it is addressed, calls
in the course of a few clays, the visit should bo returned by you within the
week, if possible. Any breach of etiquette, in this respect, will not readily
be excused.

In the event of your being invited to dinner under the above circumstances, nothing
hut necessity should prevent you from accepting the invitation. If, however, there is
some distinct reason why you cannot accept, let it he stated frankly and plainly, for
politeness and truthfulness should be ever allied. An opportunity should, also, be taken
to cuLl in the course of a day or two, in order to politely express your regret and
disappointment at not having been ablo to avail yourself of their kindness.

53- In Giving a Letter of Introduction, it should always be handed to
your friend, unsealed. Courtesy dictates this, as the person whom you are
introducing would, perhaps, wish to know in what manner he or she was
spoken of. Should you receive a letter from a friend, introducing to you
any person known to and esteemed by the writer, the letter should be
immediately acknowledged, and your willingness expressed to do all in your
power to carry out his or her wishes.

54. Such are the onerous Duties which enter into the position of the
mistress of a house, and such are, happily, with a slight but continued atten-
tion, of by no means difficult performance. She ought always to remember
that she is the first and the last, the Alpha arid the Omega in the government
of her establishment ; and that it is by her conduct that its whole internal
policy is regulated. She is, therefore, a person of far more importance in a
community than she usually thinks she is. On her pattern her daughters
model themselves ; by her counsels they aro directed ; through her virtues all
aro honoured ; — “ her children rise up and call her blessed ; her husband,
also, and he praiseth her.” Therefore, let each mistress always remember
her responsible position, never approving a mean action, nor speaking an
unrefined word. Let her conduct be such that her inferiors may respect her,
and such as an honourable and right-minded man may look for in his wife
and the mother of his children. Let her think of tho many compliments and
the sincere homage that have been paid to hor sex by tho greatest philosophers
and writers, both in ancient and modern times. Let her not forget that she
has to show herself worthy of Campbell’s compliment when he said, —

“ The world was sad ! tho garden was a wild !

And man the hermit sigh’d, till woman smiled.”

Lot her provo herself, then, the happy companion of man, and able to take
unto herself tho praises of tho pious prclato, Jeremy Taylor, who says, —
“ A good wifo is Heaven’s last best gift to man,— his angel and minister
of graces innumerable, — his gem of many virtues, — his casket of jewels — her

THE MISTRESS.

voice is sweet music — her smiles Ms brightest day her kiss, the guardian of
his innocence ; — her arms, the pale of Ms safety, the balm of his health, the
balsam of his life ; — her industry, his surest wealth ; — her economy, his safest
steward ; — her lips, Ms faithful counsellors ; — her bosom, the softest pillow of
his cares ; and her prayers, the ablest advocates of Heaven’s blessings on his
head.”

Cherishing, then, in her breast the respected utterances of the good and
the great, let the mistress of ever}' house rise to the responsibility of its
management ; so that, in doing her duty to all around her, she may receive
the genuine reward of respect, lave, and affection !

Note. — Many mistresses have experienced the horrors of house-hunting, and
it is well known that “ three removes are as good (or bad, rather) as a fire.”
Nevertheless, it being quite evident that we must, in these days at least, live
in houses, and are sometimes obliged to change our residences, it is well to
consider some of the conditions which will add to, or diminish, the convenience
and comfort of our homes.

Although the choice of a house must be dependent on so many different
circumstances with different people, that to give any specific directions on
tMs head would be impossible and useless ; yet it will be advantageous,
perhaps, to many, if we point out some of those general features as to locality,
soil, aspect, &c., to which the attention of all house-takers should be carefully
directed.

Regarding the locality, we may say, speaking now more particularly
of a town house, that it is very important to the health and comfort of a
family, that the neighbourhood of all factories of any kind, producing un-
wholesome effluvia or smells, should be strictly avoided. Neither is it well
to take a house in the immediate vicinity of where a noisy trade is carried
on, as it is unpleasant to the feelings, and tends to increase any existing irritation
of the system.

Referring to soils ; it is held as a rule, that a gravel soil is superior to
any other, as the rain drains through it very quickly, and it is consequently
drier and less damp than clay, upon which water rests a far longer time.
A clay country, too, is not so pleasant for walking exercise as one in which
gravel predominates.

The aspect of the house should be well considered, and it should be borne
in mind that the more sunlight that comes into the house, the healthier is the
habitation. The close, fetid smell which assails one on entering a narrow
court, or street, in towns, is to be assigned to the want of light, and,
consequently, ah'. A house with a south or south-west aspect, is lighter,
wanner, drier, and consequently more healthy, than one facing the north or
north-east.

. Great advances. have been made, during the last few years, in the prin-
ciples of sanitary' knowledge, and one most essential point to be observed
m reference to a house, is its “drainage,” as it has been proved in an end-
less number of cases, that bad or defective drainage is as certain to destroy
health as the taking of poisons. This arises from its injuriously affecting the
atmosphere ; thus rendering the air we breathe unwholesome and deleterious.
Let it be borne in mind, then, that unless a house is effectually drained, the
health of its inhabitants is sure to suffer ; and they will be susceptible of ague
rheumatism, diarrhoea, fevers, and cholera.

Wo now come to an all-important point, — that of the water supply. The
value of this necessary articlo has also been latoly more and more recognized
in connection with the question of health and life ; and most houses are well
supplied with every convenience connected with water. Let it, however bo
well understood, that no house, liowevor suitablo in other respects, can be

C 2

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

desirable), if this grand means of health and comfort is, in tho slightest degree,
scarce or impure. No caution cau be too great to seo that it is pure and good,
as well as plentiful ; for, knowing, as we do, that not a single part of our daily
food is prepared without it, the importance of its influence on tho health of
the inmates of a houso cannot bo over-rated.

Ventilation is another feature which must not bo overlooked. In a general
way, enough of air is admitted by the cracks round the doors and windows ;
but if this be not the case, the chimney wall smoko ; and other plans, such as
tho placing of a plate of finely-perforated zinc in the upper part of the window,
must be used. Cold air should never bo admitted under the doors, or at the
bottom of a room, unless it be closo to the fire or stove ; for it will flow along
tho floor towards the fireplace, and thus leave tho foul air in the upper part of
the room, unpurified, cooling, at the same timo, unpleasantly and injurious!}',
tho feet and legs of the inmates.

The rent of a house, it has been said, should not exceed one-eighth of the
whole income of its occupier ; and, as a general rule, we are disposed to assent
to this estimato, although there may be many circumstances which would not
admit of its being considered irifalliblo.

CHAPTER II.

THE HOUSEKEEPER.

55. As second in Command in the House, except in largo establishments,
where there is a house steward, the housekeeper must consider herself as the
immediate representative of her mistress, and bring, to the management of
the household, all those qualities of honesty, industry, and vigilance, in the
same degree as if she were at the head of her own family. Constantly on the
watch to detect any wrong-doing on the part of any of the domestics, she will
overlook all that goes on in the house, and will see that every department is
thoroughly attended to, and that the servants are comfortable, at the same
time that their various duties are properly performed.

Cleanliness, punctuality, order, and method, are essentials in the character of a good
housekeeper. Without the first, no household can be said to be well managed. The
second is equally all-important ; l'or those who are under the housekeeper will take their
“cue” from her ; and in the same proportion as punctuality governs her movements,
so will it theirs. Order, again, is indispensable ; for by it we wish to be understood
that “ there should be a place for everything, and everything in its place.” Method,
too, is most necessary ; for when the work is properly contrived, and each part arranged
in regular succession, it will be done more quickly and more effectually.

56. A NECESSARY QUALIFICATION FOR A HOUSEKEEPER is, that she should
be thoroughly able to understand accounts. She will have to write in her
books an accurate registry of all sums paid for any and every purpose, all tbo
current expenses of the house, tradesmen’s bills, and other extraneous matter.
As we have mentioned under the head of the Mistress (see 16), a housekeeper’s
accounts should be periodically balanced, and examined by the head of the
house. Nothing tends more to the satisfaction of both employer and employed,
than this arrangement. “Short reckonings make long friends,” stands good
in this case, as in others.

It will be found an excellent plan to take au account of every article which comes
into the house connected with housekeeping, and is not paid for at the time. The book
containing these entries can then be compared with the bills sent in by the various
tradesmen, so that any discrepancy can be inquired into and. set right. An intelligent
housekeeper will, by this means, too, be better able to judge of the average consumption
of each article by the household ; and if that quantity be, at any time, exceeded, the
cause may be discovered and rectified, if it proceed from waste or carelessness.

57- Although in the department of the Cook, the housekeeper does
not generally much interfere, yet it is necessary that she should possess a
good knowledge of the culinary art, as, in many instances, it may be requisite
for hor to take the superintendence of the kitchen. As a rule, it may bo
stated, that tho housekeeper, in those establishments where thoro is no house
steward or man cook, undertakes the preparation of tho confectionary, attonds

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

to the preserving and pickling of fruits and vegetables ; and, in a general way,
to the more difficult branches of the art of cookerj'.

Much of these arrangements will depend, however, on the qualifications of the cook;
for instance, if she be an able artiste, there will be but little necessity for the housekeeper
to interfere, except in the already noticed articles of confectionary, &e. On the contrary,
if the cook bo not so clever an adept in her art, then it will be requisite for the housekeeper
to give more of her attention to the business of the kitchen, than in the former ease. It
will bo one of the duties of the housekeeper to attend to the marketing, in the absence
of either a house steward or man cook.

58. The Daily duties of a Housekeeper are regulated, in a great
measure, by tbe extent of the establishment she superintends. She should,
however, rise early, and see that all the domestics are duly performing their
work, and that everything is progressing satisfactorily for the preparation of
the breakfast for the household and family. After breakfast, which, in large
establishments, she will take in tho “ housekeeper’s room ” with the lady’s-
maid, butler, and valet, and where they will be waited on by the still-room
maid, she will, on various days set apart for each purpose, carefully examine
the household linen, with a view to its being repaired, or to a further quantity
being put in hand to be made ; she will also sec that the furniture throughout
the house is well rubbed and polished ; and will, besides, attend to all the
necessary details of marketing and ordering goods from the tradesmen.

The housekeeper’s room is generally made use of bythe lady’s-maid, butler, and valet,
who take there their breakfast, tea, and supper. The lady’s-maid will also use this
apartment as a sitting-room, when not engaged with her lady, or with some other
duties, which would call her elsewhere. In different establishments, according to their
size and the rank of the family, different rules of course prevail. For instance, in the
mansions of those of very high rank, and where there is a house steward, there are
two distinct tables kept, one in the steward’s room for the principal members of the
household, the other in the servants’ hall, for the other domestics. At the steward’s
dinner-table, the steward and housekeeper preside; and here, also, are present the
lady’s-maid, butler, valet, and head gardener. Should any visitors be staying with the
family, their servants, generally the valet and lady’s-maid, will be admitted to the
steward’s table.

59. After Dinner, the liousokeeper, having seen that all the members
of the establishment havo regularly returned to their various duties, and that
all the departments of the household are in proper working order, will have
many important matters claiming her attention. She will, possibly, havo to
give the finishing touch to some article of confectionary, or be occupied with
some of tiro moro elaborate processes of tho still-room. There may also be
the dessert to arrango, ice-creams to mako ; and all those employments call
for no ordinary degree of care, taste, and attention.

The still-room was formerly much moro in vogue than at present ; for in days of “ auld
lnng syne,” the still was in constant requisitiou for the supply of sweet-flavoured waters
for tho purposes of cookery, scents and aromatic substances used in the preparation of
tiie toilet, and cordials in cases of accidents and illness. There are some establishments,
however, in which distillation is still carried on, and in these, the still-room maul has her
old duties to perform. In a general way, however, this domestic is immediately con-
cerned with tho housekeeper. For the latter she lights the lire, duals her room,
prepares the breakfast-table, and waits at the different meals taken in the housekeeper s
room (tire 58). A still-room maid may learn a verv great deal of useful knowledge from
her intimate connection with the housekeeper, and it she be active and intelligent, may
soon lit herself lor a better position in the household.

THii HOUSEKEEPER.

6o. In the Evening, the housekeeper will often busy herself with tho
necessary preparations for the next day’s duties. Numberless small, but still
important arrangements, will have to be made, so that everything may move
smoothly. At times, perhaps, attention will have to be paid to the breaking
of lump-sugar, the stoning of raisins, the washing, cleansing, and drying of
currants, &c. The evening, too, is the best time for setting right her account
of the expenditure, and duly writing a statement of moneys received and paid,
and also for making memoranda of any articles she may require for her store-
room or other departments.

Periodically, at some convenient time, — for instance, quarterly or half-yearly, it is a
good plan for the housekeeper to make an inventory of everything she has under her
care, and compare tliis with the lists of a former period; she will then be able to furnish
a statement, if necessary, of the articles which, on account of time, breakage, loss, or
other causes, it has been necessary to replace or replenish.

61. In concluding these remarks on the duties of the housekeeper, wo
will briefly refer to the very great responsibility which attaches to her position.
Like “Caesar's wife,” she should be “above suspicion,” and her honesty and
sobriety unquestionable ; for there are many temptations to which she i.->
exposed. In a physical point of view, a housekeeper should be healthy and
strong, and be particularly clean in her person, and her hands, although they
may show a degree of roughness, from the nature of some of her employments,
yet should have a nice inviting appearance. In her dealings with the various
tradesmen, and in her behaviour to the domestics under her, the demeanour
and conduct of the housekeeper should be such as, in neither case, to diminish,
by an undue familiarity, her authority or influence.

Note. — It will be useful for the mistress and housekeeper to know the best
seasons for various occupations connected with Household Management ; and
we, accordingly, subjoin a few hints which we think will prove valuable.

As, in the winter months, servants have much more to do, in consequence
of the necessity there is to attend to the number of fires throughout tho
household, not much more than the ordinary every-day work can be
attempted.

In the summer, and when the absence of fires gives the domestics more
leisure, then any extra work that is required, can be more easily performed.

The spring is the usual period set apart for house-cleaning, and removing
all the dust and dirt, which will necessarily, with the best of housewives,
accumulate during the winter months, from the smoke of the coal, oil,
gas, &c. This season is also, well adapted for washing and bleaching linen’,
&c., as, tho weather, not being then too hot for the exertions necessary in
washing counterpanes, blankets, and heavy things in general, the work is
better and more easily done than in tho intense heats of July, which month
some recommend for these purposes. Winter curtains should be taken down,
and replaced by tho summer white ones ; and furs and woollen cloths also
carefully laid by. Tho former should be well shaken and brushed, and then
pinned upon paper or linen, with camphor to preserve them from the moths.
Furs, «c. , will be preserved in the same way. Included, under the general
description of house-cleaning, must bo understood, turning out all the nooks
and corners of drawers, cupboards, lumber-rooms, lofts, &c., with a view of
getting rid of all unnecessary articles, which onlv create dirt and attract
vermin ; sweeping of ehimnoys, taking up carpets, painting and whitewashing
tno Kitchen and oilicos, papering rooms, when uooded, and, generally spoaking

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

the house putting on, with the approaching summer, a bright appearance, and
a new face, in unison with nature. Oranges now should be preserved, and
orange wine made.

The summer will bo found, as wo have mentioned above, in consequence of
the diminution of labour for the domestics, the best period for examining and
repairing household linen, and for “putting to rights” all those articles
which have received a large share of wear and tear during the dark winter
days. In direct reference to this matter, we may here remark, that sheets
should be turned “ sides to middle ” before they are allowed to get very thin.
Otherwise, patching, which is uneconomical from the time it consumes, and
is unsightly in point of appearance, will have to be resorted to. In June and
July, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, and other summer
fruits, should bo preserved, and jams and jellies made. In July, too, the
making of walnut ketchup should be attended to, as the green walnuts will
be approaching perfection for this purpose. Mixed pickles may also be now
made, and it will be found a good plan to have ready a jar of pickle-juice
(for the making of which all information will be given in future pages), into
which to put occasionally some young French beans, cauliflowers, &c.

In the early autumn, plums of various kinds aro to be bottled and preserved,
and jams and jellies made. A little later, tomato sauce, a most useful article
to have by you, may be prepared ; a supply of apples laid in, if you have a
place to keep them, as also a few keeping pears and filberts. Endeavour to
keep also a large vegetable marrow, — it will be found delicious in the winter.

In October and November, it will be necessary to prepare for the cold
weather, and get ready the winter clothing for the various members of the
family. The white summer curtains will now bo carefully put away, the fire-
places, grates, and chimneys looked to, and the house put in a thorough stato
of repair, so that no “loose tile” may, at a future day, interfere with your
comfort, and extract something considerable from your pocket.

In December, the principal household duty lies in preparing for the creature
comforts of those near and dear to us, so as to meot old Christmas with a
happy face, a contented mind, and a full larder ; and in stoning the plums,
washing the currants, cutting the citron, boating the eggs, and Mixing the
Pudding, a housewife is notunworthily greeting the genial seasou of all good
things.

CHAPTER III.

ARRANGEMENT AND ECONOMY OP THE KITCHEN.

62. “ The Distribution op a Kitchen,” says Count Rumforcl, tlie
celebrated philosopher and physician, who wrote so learnedly on all subjects
connected with domestic economy and architecture, ‘ ‘ must always depend so
much on local circumstances, that general rules can hardly be given respecting
it ; the principles, however, on which this distribution ought, in all cases, to
ba made, are simple and easy to be understood,” and, in his estimation, these
resolve themselves into symmetry of proportion in the building- and convenience
to the cook. The requisites of a good kitchen, however, demand something
more special than is here pointed out. It must be remembered that it is tho
great laboratory of every household, and that much of the “ weal or woe,”
as far as regards bodily health, depends upon the nature of the preparations
concocted within its walls. A good kitchen, therefore, should be erected with
a view to the following particulars. 1; Convenience of distribution in its

parts, with largeness of dimension. 2. Excel-
lence of light, height of ceiling, and good
ventilation. 3. Easiness of access, Without
passing through the house. 4. Sufficiently
remote from the principal apartments of the
house, that the members, visitors, or guests of
the family, may not perceive the odour incident
to cooking, or hear the noise of culinary opera-
tions. 5. Plenty of fuel and water, which, with
tho scullery, pantry, and storeroom, should be so
near it, as to offer the smallest possible trouble
in reaching them.

The kitchens of the Middle Ages, in England, are
said to have been constructed after the iashion of
/~r \ those of the Romans. They were generally octagonal,

with several fireplaces, but no chimneys ; neither was
there any wood admitted into the building. The
accompanying cut, fig. 1, represents the turret which
was erected on the top of the conical roof of the
forated with hnl™ t, kitchen at Glastonbury Abbey, and which was per-

tHsc me hSnm» f ,UlC, ?.mok® of tbo as well as the steam from cooking,
which was sor^‘0hen8-1iad l,ume 9 ?r vcnt8 bel°w the eaves to let out the steam,
boiled state Tr™ 8®^°ns.'derable. as the Anglo-Saxons used their meat chiefly in a
eomnriiinir ii vim 1 V ^""'Stance, some ot their large kitchens had four ranges
boiler In .°|in^‘l^ace *or small boiled meats, and a boiling-house for the great
Du can~ J 7- , -h<! c,,li"“r.v arrangements were no doubt different? for

Du Cange mentions a little kitchen with a chamber, even in a solarium, or upper floor.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

63. The Simplicity op the Primitive Aoes lias frequently been an object
of poetical admiration, and it dolights the imagination to picture men living
upon such fruits as spring spontaneously from the earth, and desiring no
other bevorages to slake their thirst, but such as fountains and rivers
supply. Thus we are told, that the ancient inhabitants of Argos lived
principally on pears ; that the Arcadians revelled in acorns, and the Athenians
in figs. This, of course, was in the golden age, before ploughing began, and
when mankind enjoyed all kinds of plenty without having to earn their bread
“ by the sweat of their brow.” This delightful period, however, could not last
for ever, and the earth became barren, and continued unfruitful til! Ceres came
and taught the art of sowing, with several other useful inventions. The first
whom she taught to till the ground was Triptolemus, who communicated his
instructions to his countrymen the Athenians. Thence the art was carried
into Achaia, and thence into Arcadia. Barley was the first grain that was
used, and the invention of bread-making is ascribed to Pan.

The use of fire, as an instrument of cookery, must have been coeval with this inven-
tion of bread, which, being the most necessary of all kinds of food, was frequently
used in a sense so comprehensive as to include both meat and drink. It was, by the
Greeks, baked under the ashes.

64. In the Primary Ages it was deemed unlawful to eat flesh, and when
mankind began to depart from their primitive habits, the flesh of swine was
the first that was eaten. For several ages, it was pronounced unlawful to
slaughter oxen, from an estimate of their great value in assisting men to
cultivate the ground ; nor was it usual to kill young animals, from a sentiment
which considered it cruel to take away the life of those that had scarcely
tasted the joys of existence.

At this period no cooks were kept, and wo know from Homer that his ancient heroes
prepared and dressed their victuals with their own hands. Ulysses, for example, we
are told, like a modern charwoman, excelled at lighting a fire, whilst Achilles was an
adept at turning a spit. Subsequently, heralds, employed in civil and military affairs,
filled the ofiiee of cooks, and managed marriage feasts ; but this, no doubt, was after
mankind had advanced in the art of living, a step further than roasting, which, in all
placeB, was the ancient manner of dressing meat.

65. The Age of Roasting we may consider as that in which the use of the
metals would be introduced as adjuncts to tho culinary art; and amongst
these, iron, the most useful of them all, would necessarily take a prominent
place. This metal is easily oxidized, but to bring it to a state of fusibility, it
requires a most intense heat. Of all the metals, it is the widest diffused and
most abundant ; and few stones or mineral bodies are without an admixture
of it. It possesses the valuable property of being welded by hammering ; and
hence its adaptation to the numerous purposes of civilized life.

Metallic grains of iron have been found in strawberries, and a twolfth of (he weight
of the wood of dried oak is said to consist of this metal. Blood owes its colour of
redness to the quantity of iron it contains, and ruin and snow are seldom perfectly freo
from it. In the arts it is employed in three stales,— as cast iron, wrought iron, and
steel. In each of these it largely enters into the domestic economy, and stoves, prates,
and tho general implements of cookery, are usually composed ot it. In antiquity', its

ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN.

employment was, comparatively speaking, equally universal. The exca rations made . at
Pompeii have prbved this. The accompanying cuts present us with specimens of stoves,

Fig. 4.

Fig. 5 .

both ancient and modern. Fig. 2 is the remains of a kitchen stove found in the house of
Pausa, at Pompeii, and would seem, in its perfect state, not to have been materially differ-
ent from such as are in use at the present day. Fig. 3 is a self-acting, simple open range
in modern use, and may be had of two qualities, ranging, according to their dimensions,
from £3. 10s. and £3. 18s. respectively, up to £4. 10a. and £7. os. They are completely
iitted up with oven, boiler, sliding cheek, wrouglit-iron bars, revolving shelves, and
brass tap. Fig. 4 is called the Improved Leamington Kitchener, and is said to surpass
any other range in use, for easy cooking by one fire. It has -a hot plate, which is well
calculated for an ironing-stove, and on which as many vessels as will stand upon it, may
be kept boiling, without being either soiled or injured. Besides, it has a perfectly
ventilated and spacious wrought-iron roaster, with movable shelves, draw-out stand,
double dripping-pan, and meat-stand. The roaster can be converted into an oven by
closing the valves, when bread and pastry can be baked in it in a superior manner. It
also has a large iron boiler with brass tap and steam-pipe, round and square gridirons
for chops and steaks, ash-pan, open lire for roasting, and a set of ornamental covings
with plate-warmer attached. It took a first-class prize and medal in the Great Exhibi-
tion of 1851, and was also exhibited, with all the recent improvements, at the Dublin
Exhibition in 1853. Fig. 5 is another kitchener, adapted for large families. It has on
the one side, a large ventilated oven ; and on the other, the fire and roaster. The hot
plate is over all, and there is a back boiler, made of wrought iron, with brass tap and
steam-pipe. In other respects it resembles Fig. 4, with which it possesses similar
advantages of construction. Either may be had at varying prices, according to size,
from £5. 15*. up to £23. 10*. They are supplied by Messrs. Bichard & John Slack,
33(1, Strand, London.

66. Fkom Kitchen Ranges to the implements used in cookery is but a step.
With these, every kitchen should be well supplied, otherwise the cook must
not he expected to “perform her office” in a satisfactory manner. Of the
culinary utensils of the ancients, our knowledge is very limited ; but as the art
of living, in every civilized country, is pretty much the same, the instruments
for cooking must, in a groat degree, hear a striking resoniblance to oach othor.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

On referring to classical antiquities, we find mentioned, among household
utensils, leather bags, baskets 'constructed of twigs, reeds, and rushes; boxes,
basins, and bollows ; bread-moulds, brooms, and brushes ; caldrons, colan-
ders, cisterns, and chafing-dishes ; cheese-rasps, knives, and ovens of the
Dutch kind ; funnels and frying-pans ; handmills, soup-ladles, milk-pails, and
oil -jars; presses, scales, and sieves ; spits of different sizes, but some of them
large enough to roast an ox ; spoons, fire-tongs, trays, trenchers, and drinking-
vessels ; with others for carrying food, preserving milk, and holding cheese.
This enumeration, if it does nothing else, will, to some extent, indicate the
state of the simpler kinds of mechanical arts among the ancients.

In so far as regards the shape and construction of many of the kitchen utensils
enumerated above, they bore a great resemblance to our own. This will be seen by the
accompanying cuts. Fig. 16 is an ancient stock-pot in bronze, which seems to have been

Fir;. 6. Fig. 7. Fig. 8.

made to hang over the fire, and was found in the buried city of Pompeii. Fig. 7 is one of
modern make, and may be obtained either of copper or wrought iron, tinned inside.
Fig. 8 is another of antiquity, with a large ladle and colander, with holes attached. It
is taken from the column of Trajan. The modern ones can be obtained at all prices,
according to’size, from 16s. C cl. up to JB1. Is.

67. In the Manufacture op these Utensils, bronze metal seems to have
been much in favour with the ancients. It was chosen not only for their
domestic vessels, but it was also much used for their public sculptures and
medals. It is a compound, composed of from six to twelve parts of tin to
one hundred of copper. It gives its name to figures and all pieces of sculpture
made of it. Brass was another favourite metal, which is composed of copper
and zinc. It is more fusible than copper, and not so apt to tarnish. In a pure
state it is not malleable, unless when hot, and after it has been melted twice
it will not bear the hammer. To render it capable of being wrought, it re-
quires 7 lb. of lead to he put to 1 cwt. of its own material.

The Corinthian brass of antiquity was a ’mixture of silver, gold, and copper. A fine
kind of brass, supposed to be made by the cementation of copper plates with calamine,
is, in Germany, hammered out iuto leaves, and is culled Dutch metal in this country.
It is employed in the same way as gold leaf. Brass is much used for watchworks, as
well as lor wire.

68. The braziers, ladles, stewpans, saucepans, gridirons, and colanders of
antiquity might generally pass for those of tho English- manufacture of the
prosen t day, in so far ns sliapo is concerned. In proof of this wo have placed
together tho following similar articles of ancient and modern pattern, in order

ECONOMY OP THE KITCHEN.

that the reader may, at a single view, see wherein any difference that is
between them, consists.

Fig. 9. Modern.

Fig, 10. Ancient.

Fig. 11. Modern.

Fig. 13. Ancient.

Fig. 13. Modern.

Fig. 14. Ancient.

Fig. 15. Modem. Fig. 1G. Modern. Fig. 17. Ancient. Fig. IS. Ancient.

Ties. 9 and 10 are flat sauce or sautS pans, the ancient one being fluted in the handle,
and having at the end a ram’s head. Figs. 11 and 13 are colanders, the handle of the
ancient one being adorned, in the original, with carved representations of a cornucopia,
a satyr, a goat, pigs, and other animals. Any display of taste in the adornment of such
utensils, might seem to be useless; but when wo remember how much more natural it is
for us all to be careful of the beautiful and costly, than of the plain and cheap, it may
even become a question in the economy of a kitchen, whether it would not, in the long
run, be cheaper to have articles which displayed some tasteful ingenuity in their manu-
facture, than such as are so perfectly plain as to have no attractions whatever beyond
their mere suitableness to the purposes for which they are made. Figs. 13 and 14 are
saucepans, the ancient ono being of bronze, originally copied from the cabinet of
M. l’Abbd Charlet, and engraved in the Antiquities of Montfaucon. Figs. 15 and 17 are
gridirons, and 16 and 18 dripping-pans. In all these utensils the resemblance between
such as were in use 2,000 years ago, and those in uso at the present day, is strikingly
manifest.

69. Some of the Ancient Utensils represented in the above cuts, arc
copied from those found amid the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii. These
Pioman cities were, in the first century, buried beneath the lava of an eruption
of Vesuvius, and continued to be lost to tho world till the beginning of the
last century, when a peasant, in digging for a well, gradually discovered a
small temple with some statues. Little notice, however, was taken of this
circumstanco till 1736, when tho king of Naples, desiring to erect a palace at
Portiei, caused extensive excavations to bo made, when the city of Hercu-
laneum was slowly unfolded to view. Pompeii was discovered about 1750, and

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

being easier cleared from the lava in which it had so long been entombed,
disclosed itself as it existed immediately before the catastrophe which over-
whelmed it, nearly two thousand years ago. It presented, to tho modern
world, the perfect picture of the form and structure of an ancient Roman
city. The interior of its habitations, shops, baths, theatres, and temples,
were all disclosed, wifti many of tho implements used by the workmen in
their various trades, and the materials on which they were employed, when
the doomed city was covered with the lavian stream.

‘jo. Amongst the most essential Requirements of tho kitchen are scales
or weighing-machines for family use. These are found to have existed among
the ancients, and must, at a very early age, have been both publicly and
privately employed for the regulation of quantities. The modern English
weights were adjusted by the 27th chapter of Magna Oharta, or the great
charter forced, by the barons, from King John at Runnymede, in Surrey.
Therein it is declared that the weights, all over England, shall be the same,
although for different commodities there were two different kinds, Troy and
Avoirdupois. The origin of both is taken from a grain of wheat gathered
in the middle of an ear. The standard of measures was originally kept
at Winchester, and by a law of King Edgar was ordained to be observed
throughout the kingdom.

Fig. 19 is an ancient pair of common scales, with two basins and a movable weight ,
which is made in the form of a head, covered with the pilous, because Mercury had
the weights and measures under his superintendence, ft is engraved on a stone in
the gallery of Florence. Fig. 20 represents a modern weighing-machine, of great con-
venience, and generally in use in those establishments where a great deal of cooking is
carried on.

ji. Accompanying the Scales, or weighing-machines, there should be
spice-boxes, and sugar and biscuit-canisters of either white or japanned tin.
The covers of these should fit tightly, in order to exclude the air, and if
necessary, be lettered in front, to distinguish them. The white metal of
which they are usually composed, loses its colour when exposed to the air,
but undergoes no further change. It enters largely into the composition of
culinary utensils, many of them boing entirely composed of tinned sheet-iron ;
the inside of copper and iron vessels also, being usually what is called tinned.
This art consists of covering any metal with a thin coating of tin ; and it

Fig. 19.

Fig. 20.

ECONOMY OP THE KITCHEN.

requires the metal to be covered, to be perfectly clean and free from rust,
and also that the tin, itself, be purely metallic, and entirely cleared from all
ashes or refuse. Copper boilers, saucepans, and other kitchen utensils, are
tinned after they are manufactured, by being first made hot and the tin
rubbed on with resin. In this process, nothing ought to be used but pure
grain-tin. Lead, however, is sometimes mixed with that metal, not only to
make it lie more easily, but to adulterate it — a pernicious practice, which in
every article connected with the cooking and preparation of food, cannot
be too severely reprobated. — The following list, supplied by Messrs.
Richard & John Slack, 336, Strand, will show the articles required for
the kitchen of a family in the middle class of life, although it does not
contain all the things that may be deemed necessary for some families, and
may contain more than are required for others. As Messrs. Slack them-
selves, however, publish a useful illustrated catalogue, which may be had at
then- establishment gratis, and which it will be found advantageous to
consult by those about to furnish, it supersedes the necessity of our enlarging
that which we give : —

8. d.

1 Tea-kettle 6 6

1 Toasting-fork 1 0

1 Bread-grater 1 0

1 Pair of Brass Candlesticks 3 G

1 Teapot and Tray 6 6

1 Bottle-jack 9 6

6 Spoons 1 6

2 Candlesticks 2 6

1 Candle-box 1 4

(i Knives and Porks 6 3

2 Sets of Skewers 1 0

1 Meat-chopper 1 9

1 Cinder-sifter 1 3

1 Coffee-pot 2 3

1 Colander 1 6

3 Block-tin Saucepans 5 9

6 Iron Saucepans 12 0

1 Ditto and Steamer .'. g G

1 Large Boiling-pot 10 0

4 Iron Stewpans 8 9

s. d.

1 Dripping-pan and Stand 6 6

1 Dustpan 1 0

1 Fish and Egg-slice 1 9

2 Fish-kettles 10 0

1 Flour -box 1 0

3 Flat-irons 3 6

2 Frying-pans -4 0

1 Gridiron -g 0

1 Mustard-pot 1 0

1 Salt- cellar 0 8

1 Pepper-box 0 G

1 Pair of Bellows 2 0

3 Jelly -moulds 8 0

1 Plate-basket 5 6

1 Cheese-toaster 1 10

1 Coal-shovel 2 6

1 Wood Meat-screen 30 0

The Set £8 11 1

72. As NOT ONLY Health but Life may be said to depend on the
cleanliness of culinary utensils, great attention must be paid to their con-
dition generally, but more especially to that of the saucepans, stewpans,
and boilers. Inside they should be kept perfectly clean, and where an
open fire is used, the outside as clean as possible. With a Leamington
range, saucepans, stewpans, &c., can be kept entirely free from smoke
and soot on the outside, which is an immense saving of labour to the
cook or scullery-maid. Caro should bo taken that the lids fit tight and
close, so that soups or gravies may not be suffered to waste by evaporation.
They should bo made to keep the steam in and tho smoke out, and should
always be bright on tho upper rim, whoro they do not immediately come in
contact with tho firo. Soup-pots and kettles should bo washed immediately
alter being used, and dried boforo tho fire, and they should be kopt in a dry

JIODKltN HOUSEHOLD COOKKUY.

place, in order that they may escapo the deteriorating influence of rust, and,
thereby, be destroyed. Copper utensils should never be used in the kitchen
unless tinned, and the utmost care should bo taken, not to let the tin be
rubbed off. If by chance this should occur, have it replaced before the vessel
is again brought into use. Neither soup nor gravy should, at any time, be
suffered to remain in them longer than is absolutely necessary, as any fat or
acid that is in them, may affect the metal, so as to impregnate with poison
what is intended to be eaten. Stone and earthenware vessels should be pro-
vided for soups and gravies not intended for immediate use, and, also, plenty
of common dishes for the larder, that the table-set may not be used for
such purposes. It is the nature of vegetables soon to turn sour, when they
arc apt to corrode glazed red-ware, and even metals, and frequently, thereby,
to become impregnated with poisonous particles. The vinegar also in pickles,
by its acidity, does the same. Consideration, therefore, should be given to
these facts, and great care also taken that all sieves, jelly-lags, and tapes for
collared articles, be well scalded and kept dry, or they will impart an un-
pleasant flavour when next used. To all these directions the cook should pay
great attention, nor should they, by any means, be neglected by the mistress
of the household, who ought to remember that cleanliness in the kitchen give3
health and happiness to home, whilst economy will immeasurably assist in
jjreserving them.

73. Without Fuel, a Kitchen might bo pronounced to be of little use ;
therefore, to discover and invent materials for supplying us with the means
of domestic heat and comfort, has exercised the ingenuity of man. Those
now known have been divided into five classes ; the first comprehending tho
fluid inflammable bodies ; the second, peat or turf ; the third, charcoal of wood ;
tho fourth, pit-coal charred ; and the fifth, wood or pit-coal in a crude state,
with the capacity of yielding a copious and bright flame. Tho first may be
said seldom to be employed for the purposes of cookery ; but peat, especially
amongst rural populations, has. In all ages, been regarded as an excellent fuel.
It is one of the most important productions of an alluvial soil, and belongs
to the vegetable rather than the mineral kingdom. It may bo described as
composed of wet, spongy black earth, held together by decayed vegetables.
Formerly it covered extensivo tracts in England, but has greatly disappeared
before the genius of agricultural improvement. Charcoal is a kind of artificial
coal, used principally where a strong and clear fire is desired. It is a black,
brittle, insoluble, inodorous, tasteless substance, and, when newly-made,
possesses tho remarkable property of absorbing certain qnantities of the
different gases. Its dust, when used as a polishing powder, gives great
brilliancy to metals. It consists of wood half-burned, and is manufactured
by cutting pieces of timber into nearly tho samo size, then disposing them
in heaps, and covering them with earth, so as to prevent communication
with tho air, except when necessary to make them bum. When they
liavo been sufficiently charred, tho fire is extinguished by stopping tho
vents through which the air is admitted. Of coal there are various species ;

ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN.

as, pit, culm, slate, cannel, Kilkenny, sulphurous, bovey, jot, &c. These
have all their specific differences, and are employed for various purposes ;
but are all, more or less, used as fuel.

The use of coal for burning purposes was not known to the
Homans. In Britain it was discovered about fifty years before
the birth of Christ, in Lancashire, not far from where Manchester
now stands ; but for ages after its discovery, so long as forests
abounded, wood continued to be the fuel used for tiring. The
first public notice of coal is in the reign of Henry III., who, in
1272, granted a charter to the town of Newcastle, permitting the
inhabitants to dig for coal. It took some centuries more, how-
ever, to bring it into common use, as this did not take place
till about the first quarter of the seventeenth century, in the time
of Charles I. A few years after the Restoration, we find that
about 200,000 chaldrons were consumed in London. Although
several countries possess mines of coal, the quality of their mineral
is, in general, greatly inferior to that of Great Britain, where it is
found mostly in undulating districts abounding with valleys, and
interspersed with plains of considerable extent. It lies usually between the strata of
other substances, and rarely in an horizontal position, but with a dip or inclination to
one side. Our cut, Fig. 21, represents a section of coal as it is found in the stratum.

Fig. 21.

74. To be acquainted with the PERIODS when things are in season, is
one of the most essential pieces of knowledge which enter into the “ Art
of Cookery.” We have, therefore, compiled the following list, which will
serve to show for every month in the year the

TIMES WHEN THINGS ARE IN SEASON.

JANUARY,

Pish. — Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, had-
docks, herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice,
prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback,
turbot, whitings.

Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison.

Poultry. — Capons, fowls, tame pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys.

Game. — Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock.

Vegetables. — Beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses,
cucumbers (forced), endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, tur-
nips,— various herbs.

Fruit. — Apples, grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears, walnuts, crystallized
preserves (foreign), dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins ; French and
Spanish plums ; prunes, figs, dates.

FEBRUARY.

Fish. Barbel, brill, carp, cod may be bought, but is not so good as in
January, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks, her rings, lampreys,
lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns, shrimps, skate, smelts,
soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot, whiting.

3dt

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Meat. — Beof, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets
with eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season.

Game. — Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.

Vegetables.— Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cab-
bages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney-
beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips, — various herbs.

Fruit. — Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges,
pears (Bon Chrlstien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such as almonds and
raisins ; French and Spanish plums ; prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.

MARCH.

Fish.— Barbel, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dace, eels, flounders, haddocks,
herrings, lampreys, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, prawns,
shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, tench, thornback, turbot,

. whiting.

Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame and wild pigeons, pullets
with eggs, turkeys, wild-fowl, though now not in full season.

Game. — Grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcock.

Vegetables. — Beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), Brussels sprouts, cab-
bages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney-
beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, sea-kale, spinach, tin-nips, —
various herbs.

Fruit. — Apples (golden and Dutch pippins), grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges,
pears (Bon Clirdtien), walnuts, dried fruits (foreign), such as almonds and
raisins ; French and Spanish plums ; prunes, figs, dates, crystallized preserves.

APRIL.

Fish. — Brill, carp, cockles, crabs, dory, flounders, ling, lobsters, red and
gray mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, prawns, salmon (but rather scarce and
expensive), shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, tench, turbot, whitings.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.

Poultry. — Chickens, ducklings, fowls, leverets, pigeons, pullets, rabbits.

Game. — Hares.

Vegetables. — Broccoli, celery, lettuces, young onions, parsnips, radishes,
small salad, sea-kale, spinach, sprouts, — various herbs.

Fruit. — Apples, nuts, pears, forced cherries, &c. for tarts, rhubarb, dried
fruits, crystallized preserves.

MAY.

Fish. — Carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, red
and gray mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, smelts, solas, trout, turbot.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.

ECONOMY OP THE KITCHEN.

Poultry. — Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, pullets,
rabbits.

Vegetables. — Asparagus, beans, early cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers,
cresses, cucumbers, lettuces, pease, early potatoes, salads, sea-kale, various
herbs.

Fruit. — Apples, green apricots, cherries, currants for tarts, gooseberries,
melons, pears, rhubarb, strawberries.

JUNE.

Fish. — Carp, crayfish, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, pike, prawns,
salmon, soles, tench, trout, turbot.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

Poultry. — Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets,
rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears.

Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cucumbers,
lettuces, onions, parsnips, pease, potatoes, radishes, small salads, sea-kalo,
spinach, — various herbs.

Fruit. — Apricots, cherries, currants, gooseberries, melons, nectarines,
peaches, pears, pineapples, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries.

JULY.

Fish. — Carp, crayfish, dory, flounders, haddocks, herrings, lobsters,
mackerel, mullet, pike, plaice, prawns, salmon, shrimps, soles, sturgeon,
tench, thomback.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

Poultry. — Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets, plovers, pullets,
rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks (called flappers).

Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbages, carrots, cauli-
flowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, radishes,
small salading, sea-kale, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrow, — various
herbs.

Fruit. — Apricots, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, melons, nectarinos,
pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries, walnuts in high season,
and pickled.

AUGUST.

Fish. — Brill, carp, chub, crayfish, crabs, dory, eels, flounders, grigs,
herrings, lobsters, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, shrimps, skate, soles,
sturgeon, thomback, trout, turbot.

, Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

Poultry. — Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, pigeons, plovers, pullots,
rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks.

Game. — Leverets, grouse, blackcock.

V egetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, carrots, cabbages, cauliflowers,
celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, peaso, potatoos, radishes,

D 2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

sca-kale, small salading, sprouts, turnips, various kitchen herbs, vegetable
marrows.

Fruit.— Currants, figs, filberts, gooseberries, grapes, melons, mulberries,
nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, walnuts.

SEPTEMBER.

Fish. — Brill, carp, cod, eels, flounders, lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice,
prawns, skate, soles, turbot, whiting, whitebait.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

Poultry. — Chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits,
teal, turkeys.

Game. — Blackcock, buck venison, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants.

Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, cabbage sprouts, carrots,
celery, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, pease, potatoes, salading, sea-kale, sprouts,
tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, — various herbs.

Fruit. — Bullaces, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, melons, morella-cherries,
mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, plums, quinces, walnuts.

OCTOBER.

Fish. — Barbel, brill, cod, crabs, eels, flounders, gudgeons, haddocks,
lobsters, mullet, oysters, plaice, prawns, skate, soles, tench, turbot,
whiting.

Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal, venison.

Poultry'. — Chickens, fowls, geese, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal,
turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks.

Game. — Blackcock, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks,
doe venison.

' Vegetables. — Artichokes, beets, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, celery,
lettuces, mushrooms, onions, potatoes, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable
marrows,— various herbs.

Fruit. — Apples, black and white bullaces, damsons, figs, filborts, grapes,
pears, quinces, walnuts.

NOVEMBER.

Fish. — Brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, gudgeons, haddocks, oystors, piko, soles,
toneh, turbot, whiting.

Meat. — Beef, mutton, veal, doe venison.

Poultry. — Chickens, fowls, geeso, larks, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, toal,
turkeys, widgeons, wild duck.

Game. — Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.

Vegetables. — Bootroot, cabbages, carrots, celery, lettuces, Into cucumbers,
onions, potatoes, salading, spinach, sprouts, — various herbs.

Fruit. — Apples, bullaces, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, peal's, walnuts.

ECONOMY OF THE KITCHEN.

DECEMBER.

Fish. — Barbel, brill, carp, cod, crabs, eels, clace, gudgeons, haddocks,
herrings, lobsters, oysters, perch, pike, shrimps, skate, sprats, soles, tench,
thornbaek, turbot, whiting.

Meat.— Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, venison.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, teal,
turkeys, widgeons, wild ducks.

Game. — Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipes, woodcocks.

Vegetables. — Broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, leeks, onions, potatoes,
parsnips, Scotch kale, turnips, winter spinach.

Fruit. — Apples, chestnuts, filberts, grapes, medlars, oranges, pears, wal-
nuts, dried fruits, such as almonds and raisins, figs, dates, kc., — crystallized
preserves.

75. When Fuel and Food are procured, the next consideration is, how
the latter may be best preserved, with a view to its being suitably dressed.
More waste is often occasioned by the want of j udgment, or of necessary caro
in this particular, than by any other cause. In the absence of proper places
for keeping provisions, a hanging safe, suspended in an any situation, is
the best substitute. A well-ventilated larder, dry and shady, is better for
meat and poultry, which require to be kept for some time ; and the utmost
skill in the culinary art will not compensate for the want of proper attention
to this particular. Though it is advisable that animal food should be hung-
up in the open air till its fibres have lost some degree of their toughness, yet,
if it is kept till it loses its natural sweetness, its flavour has become- dete-
riorated, and, as a wholesome comestible, it has lost many of its qualities
conducive to health. As soon, therefore, as the slightest trace of putrescence
is detected, it has reached its highest degree of tenderness, and should be
dressed immediately. During the sultry summer months, it is difficult to
procure meat that is not either tough or tainted. It should, therefore, be well
examined when it comes in, and if flies have touched it, the part must be cut
off, and the remainder well washed. In very cold weather, meat and vegetables
touched by the frost, should be brought into the kitchen early in the morning,
and soaked in cold water. In loins of meat, the long pipe that runs by the
bone should be taken out, as it is apt to taint ; as also the kernels of beef.
Rumps and edgebones of beef, when braised, should not be purchased. All
these things ought to enter into tho consideration of every household
manager, and great care should be taken that nothing is thrown away, or
suffered to be wasted in tho kitchen, which might, by proper management,
be turned to a good account. The shank-bones of mutton, so little esteemed
in general, give richness to soups or gravies, if well soaked and brushed beforo
they are added to the boiling. They are also particularly nourishing for sick
persons. Roast-beef bones, or shank-bones of ham, make excellent stock for
pea-soup. — When the whites of eggs are usod for jelly, confectionary, or other

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

purposes, a pudding or a custard should bo made, that the yolks may be used.
All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness : sugars of different soils ;
currants washed, picked, and perfectly dry ; spices pounded, and kept in very
small bottles closely corked, or in canisters, as we have already directed (72).
Not more of these should be purchased at a time than are likely to be used
in the course of a month. Much waste is always prevented by keeping every
article in the place best suited to it. Vegetables keep best on a stone floor,
if the air be excluded ; meat, in a cold dry place ; as also salt, sugar, sweet-
meats, candles, dried meats, and hams. Rice, and all sorts of seed for
puddings, should be closely covered to preserve them from insects ; but even
this will not prevent them from being affected by these destroyers, if they
aro long and carelessly kept.

CHAPTER IV.

INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY.

76. As in the Fine Arts, the progress of mankind from barbarism to civiliza-
tion is marked by a gradual succession of triumphs over the rude materialities
of nature, so in the art of cookery is the progress gradual from the earliest
and simplest modes, to those of the most complicated and refined. Plain or
rudely-carved stones, tumuli, or mounds of earth, are the monuments by
which barbarous tribes denote the events of their history, to be succeeded,
only in the long course of a series of ages, by beautifully-proportioned
columns, gracefully-sculptured statues, triumphal arches, coins, medals, and
the higher efforts of the pencil and the pen, as man advances by culture
and observation to the perfection of his faculties. So is it with the art ol
cookery. Man, in his primitive state, lives upon roots and the fruits of the
earth, until, by degrees, he is driven to seek for new means, by which his
wants may be supplied and enlarged. He then becomes a hunter and a
fisher. As his species increases, greater necessities come upon him, when he
gradually abandons the roving life of the savage for the more stationary
pursuits of the herdsman. These beget still more settled habits, when ho
begins the practice of agriculture, forms ideas of the rights of property,
and has his own, both defined and secured. The forest, the stream, and
the sea are now no longer his only resources for food. He sows and he reaps,
pastures and breeds cattle, lives on the cultivated produce of his fields, and
revels in the luxuries of the dairy ; raises flocks for clothing, and assumes, to
all intents and purposes, the habits of permanent life and the comfortable
condition of a farmer. This is the fourth stage of social progress, up to which
the useful or mechanical arts have been incidentally developing themselves,
when trade and commerce begin. Through these various phases, only to live
has been the great object of mankind ; but, by-and-by, comforts are multiplied,
and accumulating riches create new wants. The object, then, is not only to
live, but to live economically, agreeably, tastefully, and well. Accordingly,
tho art of cookery commences ; and although the fruits of the earth, the fowls
of the air, the beasts of the field, and tho fish of tho sea, are still the only food
of mankind, yet those are so prepared, improved, and dressed by skill and
ingenuity, that they are the means of immeasurably extending the boundaries
of human enjoyments. Everything that is edible, and passes under tho hands
of the cook, is more or loss changed, and assumes now forms. Hence the
influence of that functionary is immense upon tho happiness of a household.

77- In order Tn.\T th e duties of tho Cook may bo properly performed,
and that ho may bo able to reproduce ostoomod dishes with certainty, all

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

terms of indecision should bo banished from bis art. Accordingly, wliat is
known only to him, will, in these pages, bo made known to others. In them
all those indecisive terms expressed by a bit of this, some of that, a small
piece of that, and a handful of the other, shall never be made use of, but
all quantities be precisely and explicitly stated. With a desire, also, that all
ignorance on this most essential part of tho culinary art should disappear, and
that a uniform system Of weights and measures should be adopted, we give
an account of the weights which answer to certain measures.

A Table-spoonful is frequently mentioned in a recipe, in the prescriptions
of medical men, and also in medical, chemical, and gastronomical works. By
it is generally meant and understood a measure or bulk equal to that which
would be produced by half an ounce of water.

A Dessert-spoonful is the half of a table-spoonful ; that is to say, by it is
meant a measure or bulk equal to a quarter of an ounce of water.

A Tea-spoonful is equal in quantity to a drachm of water.

A Drop. — This is the name of a vague kind of measure, and is so called on
account of the liquid being dropped from the mouth of a bottle. Its quantity,
however, will vary, either from the consistency of the liquid or the size and
shape of the mouth of the bottle. The College of Physicians determined
the quantity of a drop to be one grain, 60 drops making
one fluid drachm. Their drop, or sixtieth part of a fluid
drachm, is called a minim.

Graduated glass measures can be obtained at any chemist’s, and
they save much trouble. One of these, containing a wine pint, is
divided into 16 oz . , and the oz. into 8 drachms of water; by which
any certain weight mentioned in a recipe can lie accurately measured
out. Home-made measures of this kind can readily be formed by
weighing the water contained in any given measure, and marking
on any tall glass the space it occupies. This mark can easily be
Fig. 22. made with a file. It will be interesting to many readers to know

the basis on which the French found their system of weights and
measures, for it certainly possesses the grandeur of simplicity. The metre, which is the
basis of the whole system of French weights and measures, is the exact measurement of
one forty-millionth part of a meridian of the earth.

78. Excellence in the Art of Cookery, ns in all other things, is only attain-
able by practice and experience. In proportion, therefore, to the opportunities
which a cook has had of these, so will be his excellence in the art. It is in tho
large establishments of princes, noblemen, and veiy affluent families alone,
that the man cook is found in this country. He, also, superintends the
kitchens of large hotels, clubs, and public institutions, where ho, usually, makes
out the bills of fare, which are generally submitted to the principal for
approval. To bo able to do this, therefore, it is absolutely necessary that he
should be a judge of the season of every dish, as well as know perfectly tho
state of every article he undertakes to prepare. He must also be a judgo of
every articlo he buys ; for no skill, however great it may be, will enable him to
make that good which is really bad. On him rests tho responsibility of the
cooking generally, whilst a speciality of his department, is to prepare tho rich
soups, stews, ragouts, and such dishes as enter into the more refined and

INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY .

complicated portions of his art, and 3Uch as aro not usually understood by
ordinary professors. He, therefore, holds a high position in a household,
being inferior in rank, as already shown (21), only to the house steward, the
valet, and the butler.

In the luxurious ages of Grecian antiquity, Sicilian cooks were the most esteemed, and
received hi<di rewards for their services. Among them, one called Trimalcio was such
an adept inliis art, that he could impart to common fish both the form and flavour of
the most esteemed of the piscatory tribes. A chief cook in the palmy days of Roman
voluptuousness had about £800 a year, and Antony rewarded the one that cooked the
supper which pleased Cleopatra, with the present of a city . With the fall of the empire,
the culinary art sank into less consideration. In the middle ages, cooks laboured to
acquire a reputation for their sauces, which they composed of strange combinations, for
the sake of novelty, as well as singularity.

79. The Duties of the Cook, the Kitchen and the Scullert Maids,
are so intimately associated, that they can hardly be treated of separately.
The cook, however, is at the head of the kitchen ; and in proportion to her
possession of the qualities of cleanliness, neatness, order, regularity, and
celerity of action, so will her influence appear in the conduct of those who
are under her ; as it is upon her that the whole responsibility of the business
of the kitchen rests, whilst the others must lend her, both a ready and a
willing assistance, and be especially tidy in their appearance, and active
in their movements.

In the larger establishments of the middle ages, cooks, with the authcrity of feudal
chiefs, gave their orders from a high chair in which they ensconced themselves, and
commanded a view of all that was going on throughout their several domains. Each
held a long wooden spoon, with which he tasted, without leaving his seat, the various
comestibles that were cooking on the stoves, and which he frequently used as a rod of
punishment on the backs of those whose idleness and gluttony too largely predominated
over their diligence and temperance.

80. If, as we have said (3), the Quality of Early Rising be of the first
importance to the mistress, what must it be to the servant ! Let it, therefore,
be taken as a long-proved truism, that without it, in every domestic, the effect
of all things else, so far as work is concerned, may, in a great measure, he
neutralized. In a cook, this quality is most essential ; for an hour lost in the
morning, will keep her toiling, absolutely toiling, all day, to overtake that
which might otherwise have been achieved with case. In large establishments,
six is a good hour to rise in the summer, and seven in the winter.

81. Her First Duty, in large establishments and where it is requisite,
should bo to set her dough for the breakfast rolls, provided this has not been
done on the previous night, and then to engage herself with those numerous
little preliminary occupations which may not inappropriately be termed laying
out her duties for the day. This will bring in tho breakfast hour of eight,
after which, directions must be given, and preparations made, for tho different
dinners of tho household and family.

82. In those numerous households where a cook and housemaid aro
only kept, the general custom is, that the cook should havo the charge of the

MODERN ROWEHOI/d cookery.

dining-room. The hall, the lamps and the doorstep are also committed to
her care, and any other work there may he on the outside of the house. In
establishments of this kind, the cook will, after having lighted her kitchen
fire, carefully brushed the range, and cleaned tho hearth, proceed to prepare
for breakfast. She will thoroughly rinse the kettle, and, filling it with fresh
water, will put it on the fire to boil. She will then go to the breakfast-room,
or parlour, and there make all things ready for the breakfast of the family.
Her attention will next be directed to the hall, which she will sweep and
wipe ; the kitchen stairs, if there be any, will now be swept ; and the
hall mats, which have been removed and shaken, will be again put in their
places.

The cleamug of the kitchen, pantry, passages, and kitchen stairs must always be
over before breakfast, so that it may hot interfere with the other business of the day.
Everything should be ready, and the whole house should wear a comfortable aspect
when the heads of the house and members of the family make their appearance.
Nothing, it may be depended on, will so please the mistress of an establishment, as to
notice that, allhough she has not been present to see that the work was done, atten-
tion to smaller matters has been carefully paid, with a view to giving her satisfaction and
increasing her comfort.

83. By the time that the Cook lias performed the duties mentioned
above, and well swept, brushed, and dusted her kitchen, tho breakfast-bell
will most likely summon her to the parlour, to “ bring in ” the breakfast. It
is the cook’s department, generally, in the smaller establishments, to wait
at breakfast, as the housemaid, by this time, has gone up-stairs into the
bedrooms, and has there applied herself to her various duties. The cook
usually answers the bells and single knocks at the door in the early part of
the morning, as the tradesmen, with whom it is her more special business to
speak, call at these hours.

84. It is in her Preparation of the Dinner that the cook begins to feel
the weight and responsibility of her situation, as she must take upon herself
all the dressing and the serving of the principal dishes, which her skill and
ingenuity have mostly prepared. Whilst these, however, are cooking, she
must be busy with her pastry, soups, gravies, ragouts, &c. Stock, or what
the French call consomme, being the basis of most made dishes, must be
always at hand, in conjunction with her sweet herbs and spices for seasoning.
“A place for everything, and everything in its place,” must be her rule,
in order that time may not be wasted in looking for things when they are
wanted, and in order that the whole apparatus of cooking may move with
the regularity and precision of a well-adjusted machine ; — all must go on
simultaneously. Tho vegetables and sauces must be ready with the dishes
they are to accompany, and in order that they may bo suitablo, the smallest
oversight must not be made in their preparation. When the dinner-hour
has arrived, it is tho duty of the cook to dish-up such dishes as may, without
injury, stand, for some time, covered on the hot plato or in tho hot closet ;
but such as are of a more important or re.chcrchi kind, must be delayed
until tho order “ to serve ” is given from tho drawing-room, Then comes

INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY.

haste; but there must be no hurry, — all must work with order. The cook
takes charge of the fish, soups, and poultry ; and the kitchen-maid of the
vegetables, sauces, and gravies. These she puts into their appropriate dishes,
whilst the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook. Everything must be
timed so as to prevent its getting cold, whilst great care should be taken,
that, between the first and second courses, no more time is allowed to elapse
than is necessary, for fear that the company in the dining-room lose all
relish for what has yet to come of the dinner. When the dinner has been
served, the most important feature in the daily life of the cook is at an end.
She must, however, now begin to look to the contents of her larder, taking
care to keep everything sweet and clean, so that no disagreeable smells may
arise from the gravies, milk, or meat that may be there. These are the
principal duties of a cook in a first- rate establishment.

In smaller establishments, the housekeeper often conducts the higher
department of cooking ( see 58, 59, 60), and the cook, with the assistance
of a scullery-maid, performs some of the subordinate duties of the kitchen-
maid.

When circumstances render it necessary, the cook engages to perform the
whole of the work of the kitchen, and, in some places, a portion of the
house-work also.

85. Whilst the Cook is engaged with her Morning Duties, the
kitchen-maid is also occupied with hers. Her first duty, after the fire is
lighted, is to sweep and clean the kitchen, and the various offices belonging
to it. This she does every morning, besides cleaning the stone steps at the
entrance of the house, the halls, the passages, and the stabs which lead to the
kitchen. Her general duties, besides these, are to wash and scour all these
places twice a week, with the tables, shelves, and cupboards. She has also
to dress the nursery and servants’-hall dinners, to prepare all fish, poultry,
and vegetables, trim meat joints and cutlets, and do all such duties as
may be considered to enter into the cook’s department in a subordinate
degree.

86. The Duties of the Scullery-maid are to assist the cook ; to keep
the scullery clean, and all tho metallic as woll as earthenware kitchen
utensils.

The position of scullery-maid is not, of course, one of high rank, nor is the payment
lor her services large. But it she bo fortunate enough to have over her a good kitchen-
miiKl and clever cook, she may very soon learn to perform various little duties connected
with cooking operations, which may be of considerable servieo in fitting her for a more
rr?0.rr Now> 11 Wl11 be doubtless thought by the majority of our readers,

that the fascinations connected with the position of the scullery -maid, are not so great
as to induce many people to leave a comfortable homo in order to work in a scullery
Hilt we are acquainted with one instance in which the desire, on the part of a young
girl, was so strong to become connected with the kitchen and cookery, that she abso-
rr‘'y by , r Par«nts, a;»l engaged herself ns a scullery-maid in a gentleman’s house,
rank Of ,OWed kereelf,8° aot'v? and intelligent, that she very quickly rose to the

in a Short »naoo‘Tf,d 1 r°.T.U"^ B° Krcat was her gnstronomicul genius, she became,

n a shoi t space of timo, one ot the best women-eooks in England. Altor this we think
it must be allowed, that a cook, like a poet, naecitur, non fit. ’

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKER!'.

87. Modern Cookery stands so greatly indebted to the gastronomic pro-
pensities of our French neighbours, that many of their terms are adopted and
applied by English artists to the same as well as similar preparations of their
own. A vocabulary of these is, therefore, indispensable in a work of this
kind. Accordingly, the following will be found sufficiently complete for all
ordinary purposes : —

EXPLANATION OF FRENCH TERMS USED IN MODERN
HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Aspic. — A savoury jelly, used as an exterior moulding for cold game,
poultry, fish, &c. This, being of a transparent nature, allows tho bird which
it covers to be seen through it. This may also be iised for decorating or
garnishing.

Assiette (plate). — Assiettes are the small entrees and hors-d’oeuvres, the
quantity of which does not exceed what a plate will hold. At dessert, fruits,
cheese, chestnuts, biscuits, &c., if served upon a plate, are termed assiettes. —
Assiette volante is a dish which a servant hands round to the guests, but is
not placed upon the table. Small cheese souffles and different dishes, which
ought to be served very hot, are frequently made assiettes volantes.

Au-bleu. — Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a bluish appearance.

Bain-marie. — An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water, in which a
smaller vessel can be set for cooking and warming. This is very useful for
keeping article^ hot, without altering their quantity or quality. If you keep
sauce, broth, or soup by the fireside, the soup reduces and becomes too
strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces ; but this is prevented by
using the bain-marie, in which the water should be very hot, but not boiling.

BiSchamel. — French white sauce, now frequently used in English cookery.

Blanch. — To whiten poultry, vegetables, fruit, &c., by plunging them into
boiling water for a short time, and afterwards plunging them into cold water,
there to remain until they are cold.

Blanquette. — A sort of fricassee.

Bouilli.— Beef or othor meat boiled; but, generally speaking, boiled beef
is understood by the term.

Bouillie. — A French dish resembling hasty-pudding.

Bouillon. — A thin broth or soup.

Braise. — To stew moat with fat bacon until it is tender, it having previously
been blanched.

BuAisiiiRE. — A sauoopan having a lid with ledges, to put fire on the top.

Brider. — To pass a packthread through poultry, game, kc., to keep
together their members.

Caramel (burnt sugar). — This is made with a piece of sugar, of the size of a
nut, browned in the bottom of a saucepan ; upon which a cupful of stock is

INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY.

gradually poured, stirring all the time a glass of broth, little by little. It may
be used with the feather of a quill, to colour meats, such as the upper part
of fricandeaux ; and to impart colour to sauces. Caramel made with water
instead of stock may be used to colour compdtes and other entremets.

Casserole. — A crust of rice, which, after having been moulded into the
form of a pie, is baked, and then filled with a fricassee of white meat or a
purde of game.

Compote. — A stew, as of fruit or pigeons.

Consomme. — Rich stock, or gravy.

Croquette. — Ball of fried rice or potatoes.

Croutons. — Sippets of bread.

DaubiSre. — An oval stewpan, in which daubes are cooked ; daubes being
meat or fowl stewed in sauce.

Desosser. — To bone, or take out the bones from poultry, game, or fish.
This is an operation requiring considerable experience.

Entrees. — Small side or corner dishes, served with the first course.

Entremets. — Small side or corner dishes, served with the second course.

Escalopes. — Collops ; small, 'ound, thin pieces of tender meat, or of fish,
beaten with the handle of a strong knife to make them tender.

Feuilletage. — Puff-paste.

Flamber. — To singe fowl or game, after they have been picked.

Foncer. — To put in the bottom of a saucepan slices of ham, veal, or thin
broad slices of bacon.

G ALETTE. — A broad thin cake.

Gateau. — A cake, correctly speaking; but used sometimes to denote a
pudding and a kind of tart.

Glacer. — To glaze, or spread upon hot meats, or larded fowl, a thick aud
rich sauce or gravy, called glaze. This is laid on with a feather or brush, and
in confectionary the term means to ice fruits and pastry with sugar, which
glistens on hardening.

Hors-d’<euvres. — Small dishes, or assiettes volantes of sardines, anchovies,
and other relishes of this kind, served to the guests during the first course.
(See Assiettes volantes.)

Lit.— A bed or layer; articles in thin slices are placed in layers, other
articles, or seasoning, being laid between them.

Maigre. — Broth, soup, or gravy, made without meat.

Matelote.— A rich fish-stew, which is generally composed of carp, eels,
trout, or barbel. It is made with wine.

Mayonnaise. — Cold sauce, or salad dressing.

Menu.— The bill of fare.

Meringue.— A kind of icing, mado of whites of eggs and sugar, well beaten.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

MlROTON. — Larger slices of meat than collops ; such as slices of beef for a
vinaigrette, or ragout or stew of onions.

MouiLLER. — To add water, broth, or other liquid, during the cooking.

Paner. — To cover over with very fine crumbs of bread, meats, or any other
Articles to be cooked on the gridiron, in the oven, or frying-pan.

Piqtjer. — To lard with strips of fat bacon, poultry, game, meat, &c. This
should always be done according to tho vein of the meat, so that ir» carving
you slice the bacon across as well as the meat.

PoelIse. — Stock used instead of water for boiling turkeys, sweetbreads,
fowls, and vegetables, to render them less insipid. This is rather an
expensive preparation.

Puree. — Vegetables, or meat reduced to a very smooth pulp, which is
afterwards mixed with enough liquid to make it of the consistency of very
thick soup.

Ragout. — Stew or hash.

Remoulade. — Salad dressing.

Rissoles. — Pastry, made of light puff-paste, and cut into various forms, and
fried. They may be filled with fish, meat, or sweets.

Roux. — Brown and white ; French thickening.

Salmi. — Ragout of game previously roasted.

Sauce Piquante.— A sharp sauce, in which somewhat of a vinegar flavour
predominates.

Sauter. — To dress with sauce in a saucepan, repeatedly moving it about.

Tamis. — Tammy, a sort of open cloth or sieve through which to strain
broth and sauces, so as to rid them of small bones, froth, &c.

Tourte. — Tart. Fruit pie.

Trousser. — To trass a bird : to put together the body and tie the wings
and thighs, in order to round it for roasting or boiling, each being tied then
with packthread, to keep it in the required form.

Vol-au-VENT. — A rich crust of very fine puff-paste, which may be filled
with various delicate ragouts or fricassees, of fish, flesh, or fowl. Fruit may
also be inclosed in a vol-an-vent.

SOUPS.

CHAPTER Y.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING SOUPS.

88. Lean, juicy Beep, Mutton, and Veal, form the basis of all good
soups ; therefore it is advisable to procure those pieces which afford the

richest succulence, and such as are fresh-killed. Stale meat renders them

♦

bad, and fat is not so well adapted for making them. The principal art in
composing good rich soup, is so to proportion the several ingredients that the
flavour of one shall not predominate over another, and that' all the articles of
which it is composed, shall form an agreeable whole. To accomplish this, care
must be taken that the roots and herbs are perfectly well cleaned, and that
the water is proportioned to the quantity of meat and other ingredients.
Generally a quart of water may be allowed to a pound of meat for soups, and
half the quantity for gravies. In making soups or gravies, gentle stewing or
simmering is incomparably the best. It may be remarked, .however, that a
really good soup can never be made but in a well-closed vessel, although,
perhaps, greater wholesomeness is obtained by an occasional exposure to the
air. Soups will, in general, take from three to six hours doing, and are much
better prepared the day before they are wanted. When the soup is cold, the
fat may be much more easily and completely removed ; and when it is poured
off, care must bo taken not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the
vessel, which are so fine that they will escape through a sievo. A tamis is

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKEIIY.

the best strainer, and if the soup is strained while it is hot, let the tainis or
cloth be previously soaked in cold water. Clear soups must bo perfectly
transparent, and thickened soups about the consistence of cream. To thicken
and give body to soups and gravies, potato-mucilage, arrow-root, bread -rasp-
ings, isinglass, flour and butter, barley, rice, or oatmeal, in a little water
rubbed well together, are used. A piece of boiled beef pounded to a pulp,
with a bit of butter and flour, and rubbed through a sieve, and gradually
incorporated with the soup, will be found an excellent addition. When the
soup appears to be too thin or too weak, the cover of the boiler should be
taken off, and the contents allowed to boil till some of the watery parts have
evaporated ; or some of the thickening materials, above mentioned, should be
added. When soups and gravies are kept from day to day in hot weather,
they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh scalded pans or
tureens, and plaoed in a cool cellar. In temperate weather, every other day
may be sufficient.

89. Various Herbs and Vegetables are required for the purpose 01
making soups and gravies. Of these the principal are, — Scotch barley,
pearl barley, wheat flour, oatmeal, bread -raspings, pease, beans, rice,
vermicelli, macaroni, isinglass, potato-mucilage, mushroom or mushroom
ketchup, champignons, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, turnips, garlic, slialots,
and onions. Sliced onions, fried with butter and flour till they are
browned, and then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to heighten the
colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form the basis of many of
the fine relishes furnished by the cook. The older and drier the onion, the
stronger will be its flavour. Leeks, cucumber, or burnet vinegar ; celery or
celery-seed pounded. The latter, though equally strong, does not impart the
delicate sweetness of the fresh vegetable ; and when used as a substitute, its
flavour should be corrected by the addition of a bit of sugar. Cress-seed,
parsley, common thyme, lemon thyme, orange thyme, knotted marjoram,
sage, mint, winter savoury, and basil. As fresh green basil is seldom to be
procured, and its fine flavour is soon lost, the best way of preserving the
extract is by pouring wine on the fresh leaves.

90. For the Seasoning oe Soups, bay-loaves, tomato, tarragon, chervil,
bumet, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove, mace, black and white
pepper, essence of anchovy, lemon-peel, and juico, and Seville orange-juice,
are all taken. The latter imparts a finer flavour than the lemon, and the
acid is much milder. These materials, with wine, mushroom ketchup,
Harvey’s sauce, tomato sauce, combined in various proportions, are, with
other ingredients, manipulated into an almost endless variety of excellent
soups and gravies. Soups, which are intonded to constitute the principal
part of a meal, certainly ought not to be flavoured like sauces, which are
only designed to give a relish to some particular dish.

SOUP, BROTH, AND BOUILLON.

■91. It has been asserted, that English cookery is, nationally speaking,
far from being the best in the world. More than this, we have been frequently
told by brilliant foreign writers, half philosopheus, half chefs, that we are the
•worst cooks on the face of the earth, and that the proverb which alludes to the
divine origin of food, and the precisely opposite origin of its preparers, is
peculiarly applicable to us islanders. Not, however, to the inhabitants of the
whole island ; for, it is stated in a work which treats of culinary operations,
north of the Tweed, that the “broth” of Scotland claims, for excellence and
wholesomeness, a veiy close second place to the bouillon, or common soup of
France. “ Three hot meals of broth and meat, for about the price of ONE
roasting joint,” our Scottish brothers and sisters get, they say ; and we hasten
to assent to what we think is now a very well-ascertained fact. We are glad
to note, however, that soups of vegetables, fish, meat, and game, are now very
•frequently found in the homes of the English middle classes, as well as in the
mansions of the wealthier and more aristocratic ; and we take this to be one
•evidence, that we are on the right road to an improvement in our system of
•cookery. One great cause of many of the spoilt dishes and badly-cooked
imeats which are brought to our tables, arises, we think, and most will
agree with us, from a non-acquaintance with “common, every-day things.”
Entertaining this view, we intend to preface the chapters of this work with a
simple scientific resume of all those causes and circumstances which relate to
the food we have to prepare, and the theory and chemistry of the various
■culinary operations. Accordingly, this is the proper place to treat of the
■quality of the flesh of animals, and describe some of the circumstances
which influence it for good or bad. We will, therefore, commence with the
circumstance of age, and examine how far this affects the quality of meat.

92. During the period between the Birth and Maturity of Animals,
their flesh undergoes very considerable changes. For instance, when the
animal is young, the fluids which the tissues of the muscles contain, possess a
large proportion of what is called albumen. This albumen, which is also the
chief component of the white of eggs, possesses the peculiarity of coagulating
or hardening at a certain temperature, like the white of a boiled egg, into a
soft, white fluid, no longer soluble, or capable of being dissolved in water.
As animals grow older, this peculiar animal mattor gradually decreases, in
proportion to the other constituents of the juice of tho flesh. Thus, the
leason why veal, lamb, and young pork aro white, and without gravy when
cooked, is, that tho large quantity of albumen they contain hardons, or
bocomes coagulated. On the other hand, the reason why beef and mutton

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

are brown, and have gravy, is, that the proportion of albumen they contain,
is small, in comparison with thoir greater quantity of fluid which is soluble,
and not coagulable.

93. The Quality op the Flesh of an Animal is considerably influenced
by the nature of the food on which it has been fed; for the food supplies the
material which produces the flesh. If the food be not suitable and good, the
meat cannot be good either ; just as the paper on which these words are printed,
could not be good, if the rags from which it is made, were not of a fine quality.
To the experienced in this matter, it is well known that the flesh of animals fed
on farinaceous produce, such as com, pulse, &c., is firm, well-flavoured, and
also economical in the cooking ; that the flesh of those fed on succulent and
pulpy substances, such as roots, possesses these qualities in a somewhat less
degree ; whilst the flesh of those whose food contains fixed oil, as linseed, is
greasy, high coloured, and gross in the fat, and if the food has been used in
large quantities, possessed of a rank flavour.

94. It is indispensable to the Good Quality of Meat, that the animal
should be perfectly healthy at the time of its slaughter. However slight the
disease in an animal may be, inferiority in the quality of its flesh, as food, is
certain to be produced. In most cases, indeed, as the flesh of diseased
animals has a tendency to very rapid putrefaction, it becomes not only
unwholesome, but absolutely poisonous, on account of the absorption of the
■virus of the unsound meat into the systems of those who partake of it. The
external indications of good and bad meat will be described under its own
particular head, but we may here premise that the Iyer of all wholesome meat,
when freshly killed, adheres firmly to the bone.

95. Another Circumstance greatly Affecting the Quality of Meat,
is the animal’s treatment before it is slaughtered. This influences its value

. and wholesomeness in no inconsiderable degree. It will be eas3T to understand
this, when we reflect on those leading principles by which the life of an animal
is supported and maintained. These are, the digestion of its food, and the
assimilation of that food into its substance. Nature, in effecting this pro-
cess, first reduces the food in the stomach to a state of pulp, under tho name
of chyme, which passes into the intestines, and is there divided into two
principles, each distinct from the other. One, a milk-white fluid, — the
nutritive portion, — is absorbed by innumerable vessels which open upon the
mucous membrane, or inner coat of the intestines. These vessels, or absorbents,
discharge the fluid into a common duct, or road, along which it is convqycd to
tho large veins in the neighbourhood of the heart. Here it is mixed with the
venous blood (which is black and impure) returning from every part of the
body, and then it supplies the waste which is occasioned in the circulating
stream by tho arterial (or pure) blood having furnishod matter for tho substance
of tho animal. The blood of the animal having completed its course through
all parts, and having had its waste recruited by tho digested food, is now received

THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP-MAKING.

into the lieai’t, and by the action of that organ it is urged through the lungs,
there to receive its purification from the air which the animal inhales. Again
returning to the heart, it is forced through the arteries, and thence distributed,
by innumerable ramifications, called capillaries, 'bestowing to every part of the
animal, life and nutrimoht. The other principle — the innutritive portion —
passes from the intestines, and is thus got rid of. It will now be readily under-
stood how flesh is affected for bad, if an animal is slaughtered when the circu-
lation of its blood has been increased by over-driving, ill-usage, or other causes
of excitement, to such a degree of rapidity as to be too great for the capillaries
to perform their functions, and causing the blood to be congealed in its minuter
vessels. Where this has been the case, the meat will be dark-coloured, and
become rapidly putrid ; so that self-interest and humanity alike dictate kind
and gentle treatment of all animals destined to serve as food for man.

THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OP SOHp-MAKING.

96. Stock being the Basis of all meat soups, and, also, of all the principal
sauces, it is essential to the success of these culinary operations, to know the
most complete and economical method of extracting, from a certain quantity
of meat, the best possible stock or broth. The theory and philosophy of this
process we will, therefore, explain, and then proceed to show the practical
-course to be adopted.

97. As all Meat is principally composed of fibres, fat, gelatine, osmazome,
and albumen, it is requisite to know that the fibres are inseparable, constituting
•almost all that remains of the meat' after it has undergone a long boiling.

98. Fat is dissolved by boiling ; but as it is contained in cells covered
by a very fine membrane, which never dissolves, a portion of it always
adheres to the fibres. The other portion rises to the surface of the stock, and
is that which has escaped from the cells which were not whole, or which have
burst by boiling.

99. Gelatine is soluble : it is the basis and the nutritious portion of the
stock. When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when cold, to
become a jelly.

100. Osmazome is soluble even when cold, and is that part of the moat
which gives flavour and perfumo to the stock. The flesh of old animals
contains more osmazome than that of young ones. Brown meats contain moro
than white, and the former mako the stock moro fragrant. By roasting meat,
the osmazomo appears to acquire higher properties ; so, by putting the remains
of roast meats into your stock-pot, you obtain a better flavour.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKEUV.

101. Albumen is of tlie nature of the white of eggs ; it can be dissolved in
cold or tepid water, but coagulates when it is put into water not quite at the
boiling-point. From this property in albumen, it is evident that if the meat
is put into the stock -pot when the water boils, or after this is made to boil up
quickly, the albumen, in both cases, hardens. In the first it rises to the sur-
face, in the second it remains in the moat, but in both it prevents the gelatine
and osmazome from dissolving; and hence a thin and tasteless stock will be
obtained. It ought to be known, too, that the coagulation of the albumen in
the meat, always takes place, more or less, according to the size of the piece,
as the parts farthest from the surface always acquire that degree of heat which
congeals it before entirely dissolving it.

102. Bones ought always to form a component part of the stock-pot. They
are composed of an earthy substance, — to which the}' owe their solidity, — of
gelatine, and a fatty fluid, something like marrow. Two ounces of them con-
tain as much gelatine as one pound of meat ; but in them, this is so incased in
the earthy substance, that boiling water can dissolve only the surface of whole
bones. By breaking them, however, you can dissolve more, because you
multiply their surfaces ; and by reducing them to powder or paste, you can
dissolve them entirely ; but you must not grind them dry. We have said (99)
that gelatine forms the basis of stock ; but this, though very nourishing, is
entirely without taste ; and to make the stock savoury, it must contain
osmazome. Of this, bones do not contain a particle ; and that is the reason
why stock made entirely of them, is not liked ; but when you add meat to
the broken or pulverized bones, the osmazome contained in it makes the stock
sufficiently savoury.

103. In concluding this part of our subject, the following condensed hints
and directions should be attended to in the- economy of soup-making : —

I. Beef makes tee best Stock ; veal stock has less colour and taste ;
whilst mutton sometimes gives it a tallowy smell, far from agreeable, unless
the meat has been previously roasted or broiled. Fowls add very little
to the flavour of stock, unless they be old and fat. Pigeons, when they
are old, add the most flavour to it ; and a rabbit or partridge is also a great
improvement. From the freshest meat the best stock is obtained.

II. If the Meat be Boiled solely to mako stock, it must be cut up into
tho smallest possible pieces ; but, generally speaking, if it is desired to have
good stock and a piece of savoury moat as well, it is necessary to put a rather
large piece into the stock-pot, say sufficient for two or three days, during which
time tho stock will keep well in all weathers. Choose the freshest meat, and
have it cut as thick as possible ; for if it is a thin, flat piece, it will not look
well, and will be very soon spoiled by the boiling.

III. Never wash Meat, as it deprives its surface of all its juices ; separate

THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP-MAKING.

it from the bones, and tie it round with tape, so that its shape may be pre-
served, then put it into the stock-pot, and for each pound of meat, let there be
one pint of water ; press it down with the hand, to allow the air, which it
contains, to escape, and which often raises it to the top of the water.

IV. Put the Stock-pot on a gentle fire, so that it may heat gradually.
The albumen will first dissolve, afterwards coagulate ; and as it is in this state
lighter than the liquid, it will rise to the surface ; bringing with it all its
impurities. It is this which makes the scum. The rising of the hardened
albumen has the same effect in clarifying stock as the white of eggs ; and,
as a rule, it may be said that the more scum there is, the clearer will be the
stock. Always take care that the fire is very regular.

V. Remove the Scum when it rises thickly, and do not let the stock boil,
because then one portion of the scum wilf be dissolved, and the other go to
the bottom of the pot ; thus rendering it very difficult to obtain a clear broth.
If the fire is regular, it will not be necessary to add cold water in order
to make the scum rise ; but if the fire is too large at first, it will then be
necessary to do so.

VI. When the Stock is well skimmed, and begins to boil, put in salt
and vegetables, which may be two or three carrots, two turnips, one parsnip, a
bunch of leeks and celery tied together. You can add, according to taste, a
piece of cabbage, two or three cloves stuck in an onion, and a tomato. The
latter gives a very agreeable flavour to the stock. If fried onion be added, it
•ought, according to the advice of a famous French chef, to be tied in a little
bag : without this precaution, the colour of the stock is liable to be clouded.

VII. By this time we will now suppose that you have chopped the bones
which were separated from the meat, and those which were left from the roast
meat of the day before. Remember, as was before pointed out, that the more
these are broken, the more gelatine you will have. The best way to break them
up is to pound them roughly in an iron mortar, adding, from time to time, a
little water, to prevent them getting heated. It is a great saving thus to make
use of the bones of meat, which, in too many English families, we fear, are
■entirely wasted ; for it is certain, as previously stated (No. 102), that two ounces
•of bone contain as much gelatine (which is the nutritive portion of stock) as
one pound of meat. In their broken state tie them up in a bag, and put
them in the stock-pot ; adding the gristly parts of cold meat, and trim-
mings, which can be used for no other purpose. If, to make up the weight,
you have received from the butcher a piece of mutton or veal, broil it slightly
over a clear fire before putting it in the stock-pot, and be very careful that
it does not contract the least taste of being smoked or burnt.

\ HI. Add now the Vegetables, which, to a certain oxtont, will stop the
(fooiling of the stock. Wait, therefore, till it simmers well up again, then

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

draw it to the side of the lire, and keep it gently simmering till it is served,
preserving, as before said, your fire always the same. Cover the stock-pot well,
to prevent evaporation ; do not fill it up, even if you take out a little stock,
unless the meat is exposed ; in which case a little boiling water may be added,
but only enough to cover it. After six hours’ slow and gentle simmering, the
stock is done ; .find it should not be continued on the fire, longer than is
necessary, or it will tend to insipidity.

Note.— It is on a good stock, or first good broth and sauce, that excellence
in cookery depends. If the preparation of this basis of the culinary art is
intrusted to negligent or ignorant persons, and the stock is not well skimmed,
but indifferent results will be obtained. The stock will never be clear ; and.
when it is obliged to be clarified, it is deteriorated both in quality and flavour.
In the proper management of the stock-pot an immense deal of trouble is
saved, inasmuch as one stock, hi a small dinner, serves for all purposes.
Above all things, the greatest economy, consistent with excellence, should be
practised, and the price of everything which enters the kitchen correctly
ascertained. The theory of this part of Household Management may appear
trifling ; but its practice is extensive, and therefore it requires the best
attention.

RECIPES.

CHAPTER YI.

FRUIT ATED VEGETABLE SOUPS.

{It will be seen, by reference to the following Recipes, that an entirely original
and most intelligible system has been pursued in explaining the preparation of
each dish. We would recommend the young housekeeper, cook, or whoever may
he engaged in the important task of “ getting ready ” the dinner, or other meal,
to follow precisely the order in which the recipes are given. Tims, let them first
place on their table all the Ingredients necessary ; then the modus operandi,
or MODE of preparation, will be easily managed. By a careful reading, too, of
the recipes, there will not be the slightest difficulty in arranging a repast for any
number of persons, and an accurate notion will be gained of the Time the
cooking of each dish will occupy, of the periods at which it is Seasonable, as
also of its Average Cost.

The addition of the natural history, and the description of the various pro-
perties the edible articles in common use in every family, will be serviceable
both in a practical and an educational point of view.

Speaking specially of the Recipes for Soups, it may be added, that by the
employment of the Best, Medium, or Common Stock, the quality of the Soups
and their cost may be proportionately increased or lessened. \

STOCKS EOR ALL KINDS OE SOUPS.

RICH STRONG STOCK.

104. Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of shin of beef, 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal,
^lb. of good lean ham ; any poultry trimmings ; 3 small onions, 3 small
carrots, 3 turnips (the latter should be omitted in summer, lest they
ferment), 1 head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms, when obtain-
able ; 1 tomato, a bunch of savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley ;
if oz. of salt, 12 white peppercorns, 6 cloves, 3 small blades of mace,
4 quarts of water.

Mode.— Line a delicately clean stewpan with the ham cut in thin
broad slices, carefully trimming off all its rusty fat ; cut up the beef
and veal in pieces about 3 inches square, and lay them on the ham ;
set it on the stove, and draw it down, and stir frequently. When

MODEEN’ HOUSEHOLD COOKEItV.

the meat is equally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, the
poultry trimmings, and pour in the cold water. Skim well, and
occasionally add a little cold water, to stop its boiling, until it
becomes quite clear ; then put in all the other ingredients, and sim-
mer very slowly for o hours. Do not let it come to a brisk boil, that
the stock be not wasted, and that its colour may be preserved. Strain,
through a very fine hair sieve, or tammy, and it will be fit for use.

Time. — 5 hours. Average cost, Is. 3d. per quart.

MEDIUM STOCK.

105. Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of shin of beef, or 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal,
or 2 lbs. of each ; any bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meat, £ a lfci
of lean bacon or ham, 2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, each stuck with
3 cloves ; 1 turnip, 3 carrots, § a leek, 1 head of celery, 2 oz. of salt, 3 a
teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 large blade of mace, 1 small bunch of
savoury herbs, 4 quarts and 3 pint of cold water.

Mode. — Cut up the meat and bacon or ham into pieces about 3 inches
square ; rub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan ; put in 3 a pint
of water, the meat, and all the other ingredients. Cover the stewpan,
and place it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. When
the bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like substance,
add 4 quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently for 5 hours. As
we have said before, do not let it boil quickly. Skim off every particle
of grease whilst it is doing, and strain it through a fine hair sieve.

This is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and
will be found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes.

Time. — 03 hours. Average cost, 9 d. per quart.

ECONOMICAL STOCK.

106. Ingredients. — The liquor in which a joint of meat has been
boiled, say 4 quarts; trimmings of fresh meat or poultry, shank-
bones, &e., roast-beef bones, any pieces the larder may furnish ; vege-
tables, spices, and the same seasoning as in the foregoing recipe.

Mode. — Let all the ingredients simmer gently for 6 hours, taking
care to skim carefully at first. Strain it off, and put by for use.

Time. — 6 hours. Average cost, 3d. per quart.

'WHITE STOCK.

(To be Used in the Preparation of White Soups.)

107. Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, any poultry trim-
mings, 4 slices of lean ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of celery.

EKUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

12 white peppercorns, 1 oz. of salt, 1 blade of mace, 1 oz. butter,

4 quarts of water.

Mode. — Cut up the veal, and put it with the bones and trimmings
of poultry, and the ham, into the stewpan, which has been rubbed
with the butter. Moisten with \ a pint of water, and simmer till
the gravy begins to flow. Then add the 4 quarts of water and the
remainder of the ingredients ; simmer for 5 hours. After skimming
and straining it carefully through a very fine hair sieve, it will be
ready for use.

Time. — 5 4 hours. Average cost , 9d. per quart.

Note. — When stronger stock is desired, double, the quantity of veal,
or put in an old fowl. The liquor in which a young turkey has been
boiled, is an excellent addition to all white stock or soups.

BROWNING- FOR STOCK.

108. Ingredients.— 2 oz. of powdered sugar, and & a pint of water.

Mode. — Place the sugar in a stewpan over a slow fire until it begins
to melt, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon until it becomes blank,
when add the water, and let it dissolve. Cork closely, and use a few
drops when required.

Note. — In France, burnt onions are made use of for the purpose of
browning. As a general rule, the process of browning is to be dis-
couraged, as apt to impart a slightly unpleasant flavour to the stock,
and, consequently, all soups made from it.

TO CLARIFY STOCK.

.jog. Ingredients. — The whites of 2 eggs, £ pint of water, 2 quarts-
of stock.

Mode. — Supposing that by some accident the soup is not quite clear,
and that its quantity is 2 quarts, take the whites of 2 eggs, carefully
separated from their yolks, whisk them well together with the water,
and add gradually the 2 quarts of boiling stock, still whisking. Place
the soup on the fire, and when boiling and well skimmed, whisk the
eggs with it till nearly boiling again ; then draw it from the fire, and
let it settle, until the whites of the eggs become separated. Pass
through a fine cloth, and the soup should be clear.

Note. — The rule is, that all clear soups should be of a light straw-
colour, and should not savour too strongly of the meat ; and that all
whito or brown thick soups should have no more consistency than will
enable them to adhere slightly to the spoon when hot. All purees
should be somewhat thicker.

ALMOND SOUP.

no. Ingredients.— 4 lbs. of lean beef or veal, 4 a scrag of

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

mutton, 1 oz. of vermicelli, 4 blades of mace, 6 cloves, £ lb. of sweet
almonds, the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 gill of thick cream, rather more than.
2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Boil the beef, or veal, and the mutton, gently in water that
will cover them, till the gravy is very strong, and the meat very ten-
der ; then strain off the gravy, and set it on the fife with the specified
quantities of vermicelli, mace, and cloves, to 2 quarts. Let it boil till
it has the flavour of the spices. Have ready the almonds, blanched
and pounded very fine ; the yolks of the eggs boiled hard ; mixing the
almonds, whilst pounding, with a little of the soup, lest the latter
should grow oily. Pound them till they are a mere pulp, and keep
adding to them, by degrees, a little soup until they are thoroughly
mixed together. Let the soup be cool when mixing, and do it perfectly
smooth. Strain it through a sieve, set it on the fire, stir frequently,
and serve hot. Just before taking it up, add the cream.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost per quart, 2s. 3d.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

ALMOND & BLOSSOM.

is yielded by animals,
cosmetic.

The Almond-Tree. — TI113 tree is indigenous to tlie northern
parts of Asia and Africa, but it is now cultivated in Europe,
especially in the south of France, Italy, and Spain. It flowers
in spring, and produces its fruit in August. Although thero
are two kinds of almonds, the sweet and the litter, they are
considered as only varieties of the same species. The best
sweet almonds brought to England, are called the Syrian or
Jordan, and come from Malaga; the inferior qualities are
brought from Valentia and Italy. Bitter almonds come nrin-
cipally from Magadore. Anciently, the almond was much es-
teemed by the nations of the East. Jacob included it among
the presents which he designed for Joseph. The Greeks culled
it the Greek or Tkasian nut, and the Homans believed that by
eating half a dozen of them, they were secured against drunk-
enness, however deeply they might imbibe. Almonds, however,
are considered as very indigestible. The bitter contain, too,
principles which produce two violent poisons, — prussic acid and
a kind of volatile oil. It is consequently dangerous to eat them
in large quantities. Almonds pounded together with a little,
sugar and water, however, produce a milk similar to that which
Their oil is used for making lino soap, and their cake as a

APPLE SOUP.

in. Ingeedients. — 2 lbs. of good boiling apples, 4- teaspoonful of
white pepper, 0 cloves, cayenne or ginger to taste, 3 quarts of medium
stock.

Mode. — Peel and quarter the apples, taking out their cores ; put
them into the stock, stew them gently till tender. Rub the whole
through a strainer, add the seasoning, give it one boil up, and serve.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost per quart, Is.

Seasonable from September to December.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOURS.

Tue Apple. — This useful fruit is mentioned in Holy Writ; and Homer describes
it as valuable in his time. It was brought from the East by the Bomans, who
held it in the highest estimation. Indeed, some of the
citizens of the “Eternal city” distinguished certain fa-
vourite apples by their names. Thus the Manlians were
called after Manlius, the Claudians after Claudius, and
the Appians after Appius. Others were designated after
the country whence they were brought; as the Sidonians,
the Epirotes, and the Greeks. The best varieties are natives
of Asia, and have, by grafting them upon others, been
introduced into Europe. The crab, found in our hedges,
is the only variety indigenous to Britain ; therefore, for the
introduction of other kinds we are, no doubt, indebted to
the Bomans. In the time of the Saxon heptarchy, both
Devon and Somerset were distinguished as the apple country ;

•and there are still existing in Herefordshire some trees said
to have been planted in the time of William the Conqueror.

Erom that time to this, the varieties of this precious fruit
have gone on increasing, and are now said to number up-
wards of 1,500. It is peculiar to the temperate zone, being
found neither in Lapland, nor within the tropics. The best
baking apples for early use are the Colvilles; the best for
autumn are the rennets and pearmains ; and the best for
winter apd spring are russets. The best table, or eating
apples, are the Margarets lor early use ; the Kentish eodliu
and summer pearmain for summer ; and for autumn, winter,
or spring, the Dowton, golden and other pippins, as the
ribstone, with .small russets. As a food, the apple cannot
be considered to rank high, as more than the half of it consists of water, and the rest
of its properties are not the most nourishing. It is, however, a useful adjunct to
other lands of food, and, when cooked, is esteemed as slightly laxative.

ARTICHOKE (JERUSALEM) SOUP.

(-4 White Soup.)

ii2. Ingredients— 3 slices of lean bacon or bam, i a head of
celery, 1 turnip, 1 onion, 3 oz. of butter, 4 lbs. of artichokes, 1 pint of
boiling milk, or 4 pint of boiling cream, salt and cayenne to taste,
2 lumps of sugar, 2f quarts of white; stock.

Mode. Put the bacon and vegetables, which should be cut into
thin slices, into the stewpan with the butter. Braise these for of an
hour, keeping them well stirred. Wash and pare the artichokes, and
after cutting them into thin slices, add them, with a pint of stock, to
the other ingredients. When these have gently stewed down to a
smooth pulp, put in the remainder of the stock. Stir it well, adding
the seasoning, and when it has simmered for hve minutes, pass it
thiough a strainer. Now pour it back into the stewpan, let it again
simmer live minutes, taking care to skim it well,, and stir it to the
boiling milk or cream. Serve with small sippets of bread fried in
butter.

Time.— 1 hour. Average cost per quart, Is. ‘Id.

Seasonable from June to October.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ASPARAGUS SOUP.

113. Ingredients. — 0 lbs. of lean beef, 3 slices of bacon, £ pint
of pale ale, a few leaves of white beet, spinach, 1 cabbage lettuce,
a little mint, sorrel, and marjoram, a pint of asparagus-tops cut
small, , the crust of 1 French roll, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of
water.

Mode. — Put the beef, cut in pieces and rolled in flour, into a stew-
pan, with the bacon at the bottom ; cover it close, and set it on a slow
fire, stirring it now and then till the gravy is drawn. "Put in the
water and ale, and season to taste with pepper and salt, and let it stew
gently for 2 hours ; then strain the liquor, and take off the fat, and
add the white beet, spinach, cabbage lettuce, and mint, sorrel, and
sweet marjoram, pounded. Let these boil up in the liquor, then put
in the asparagus-tops cut small, and allow them to boil till all is
tender. Serve hot, with the French roll in the dish.

Time. — Altogether 3 hours. Average cost per quart, Is. 9 d.

Seasonable from May to August.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

11.

114. Ingredients. — l-.V pint of split peas, a teaeupful of gravy,
4 young onions, 1 lettuce cut small, i a hea'd of celery, i a pint of
asparagus cut small, i a pint of cream, 3 quarts of water : colour the
soup with spinach juice.

Mode. — Boil the peas, and rub them through a sieve ; add the
gravy, and then stew by themselves the celery, onions, lettuce, and
asparagus, with the water. After this, stew altogether, and add
the colouring and cream, and serve.

Time— Peas 2$ hours, vegetables 1 hour ; altoge-
ther 4 hours. Average cost per quart, Is.

Asparagus.— The ancients culled all the sprouts of young
vegetables asparagus, whence the name, which is now limited
to a particular species, embracing artichoke, alisander, aspa-
ragus, cardoon, rampion, and sea-kale. They are originally
mostly wild seacoaat plants; and, in this state, asparagus may
still bo found on the northern as well as southern shores of
Britain. It is often vulgarly called, in London, *piirrowqra*i ;
and, in its cultivated form,’ hardly bears any resemblance to
the original plant. Immense quantities of it are raised for the
London market, at Mortlake and Deptford ; but it belongs
rather to the classes of luxurious than necessary food. It is
light and easily digested, but is not very nutritious.

ASPARAGUS.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

BAKED SOUP.

115. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of any kind of meat, any trimmings or
odd pieces ; 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 oz. of rice, 1 pint ot split peas,
pepper and salt to taste, 4 quarts of water.

Mode. — Cut the meat and vegetables in slices, add to them the rice
and peas, season with pepper and salt. Put the whole in a jar, fill up
with the water, cover very closely, and bake for 4 hours.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, 2 id. per quart.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 10 or 12 persons.

Note.— This will be found a very cheap and wholesome soup, and
will be convenient in those cases where baking is more easily per-
formed than boiling.

BARLEY SOUP.

ii 6. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of shin of beef, j lb. of pearl barley, a
large bunch of parsley, 4 onions, 6 potatoes, salt and pepper, 4 quarts
of water.

Mode. — Put in all the ingredients, and simmer gently
for 3 hours.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, '2\d. per quart.

. Seasonable all the year, but more suitable for winter.

Barley. — This, in the ‘order of cereal grasses, is, in Britain, the next
plant to wheat in point of value, and exhibits several species and varieties.

Prom what country it comes originally, is not known, but it was cultivated
in the earliest ages of antiquity, as the Egyptians were afflicted with the
loss of it in the ear, in the time of Moses. It was a favourite grain with
the Athenians, but it was esteemed as an ignominious food by the Romans.
Notwithstanding this, however, it was much used by them, as it was in
former times by the English, and still is, in the Border counties, in Corn-
wall, and also in Wales. In other parts of England, it is used mostly for
malting purposes. It is less nutritive than wheat ; and in 100 parts, has
of starch 79, gluten 6, saccharine matter 7, husk 8. It is, however,
a lighter and less stimulating food than wheat, which renders a decoction
of it well adapted for invalids whose digestion is weak. barley.

BREAD SOUP.

( Economical .)

117. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of bread crusts, 2 oz. butter, 1 quart of
common stock.

Mode. — Boil the bread crusts in the stock with the butter ; beat the
whole with a spoon, and keep it boiling till the bread and stock are
well mixed. Season with a little salt.

Time. — Half an hour. Average cost per quart, Ad.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOK ERE.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

i\ote. This is a cheap recipe, and will be found useful where
extreme economy is an object.

BitP.AH.— The origin of bread is involved in the obscurity of distant ages. The Greeks
attributed its invention to Pan; but before they, themselves, had an existence, it was no
doubt, in use among the primitive nations of mankind. The Chaldeans and the Egyptians
were acquainted with it, and Sarah, the companion of Abraham, mixed Hour and water
together, kneaded it, and covered it with ashes on the hearth. The Scriptures inform
us that leavened bread was known to the Israelites, but it is not known when the art of
iermentmg it was discovered. It is said that the Homans learnt it during their wars
with 1 erseus, lung ot Mucedon, and that it was introduced to the “ imperial city'* about

200 years before the birth of Christ. With
them it no doubt found its way into Britain ;
but after their departure from the island, it
probably ceased to lie used. We know that
King Alfred allowed the unferraented cakes
to burn in the neatherd’s cottage; and that,
even in the sixteenth century, unfermented
cakes, kneaded by the women, were the
only kind ofbread known to the inhabitants
of. Norway and Sweden. The Italians of
this day consume the greater portion of
their flour in the firm of polenta, or soft
pudding, vermicelli, and macaroni ; and, in
the remoter districts of Scotland, much
unfermented bread is still used. We give
a cut of the quern grinding-mill, which,
towards the end of the last century, was in use in that country, and which is thus
described by Dr. Johnson in his “ Journey to the Hebrides “It consists of two
stoues about a foot and a half in diameter; the lower is a little convex, to which the
concavity of the upper must bo fitted. In the middle of the upper stone is a round hole,
and on one side is a long handle. The grinder sheds the corn gradually into the hole
with one hand, and works the handle round with the other. The corn slides down the
convexity of the lower stone, and, by the motion of the upper, is ground in its passage.’’
Such a primitive piece of machinery, it may safely he said, has entirely disappeared from
this country. — In other parts of this work, wo shall have opportunities of speaking of
bread and bread-making, which, from its great and general use iu the nourishment
of mankind, has emphatically been called the “ staff of life.” The necessity, therefore,
of having it both pure and good is of the first importance.

(WEES’, on GEINDIN G-5IILL.

CABBAGE SOUP.

1 1 8. Ingredients. — 1 targe cabbage, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 4 or 5 slices
of lean bacon, salt and pepper to taste, 2 quarts of medium stock
Ho. 105.

Mode— Scald the cabbage, cut it up and drain it. Line the stew-
pan with the bacon, put in the cabbage, carrots, and onions; moisten
with shimmings from the stock, and simmer very gently, till the bj
cabbage is tender ; add the stock, stew softly for half an hour, and
carefully skim ofF every particle of fat. Season and serve.

Time. — l i hour. Average cost, Is. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

The Cabbage. — II, is remarkable, that although Ihcre is no country in the world now
more plentifully supplied with fruits and vegetables than Great Britain, yet the greater
number of these hud no existence in it before the time of Iienry A III. Anderson,

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOURS.

writing under the date of 1518, says, “ The English cultivated scarcely auy vegetables be-
fore the last two centuries. At the commencement of the reign
of Henry VIII. neither salad, jior carrots, nor cabbages, nor
radishes, nor any other comestibles of a like nature, were
grown in any part of the kingdom ; they came from Holland
and Flanders.” The original of all the cabbage tribe is the
wild plant sca-colewort, which is to be found wasting whatever
sweetness it may have on the desert air, on many of the cliffs
of the south coast of England. In this state, it scarcely
weighs more than half an ounce, yet, in a cultivated state, to
what dimensions can it be made to grow! However greatly
the whole of the tribe is esteemed among the moderns, by the
ancients they were held in yet higher estimation. The Egyp-
tians adored and raised altars to them, and the Greeks and
Homans ascribed many of the most exalted virtues to them.

Cato affirmed, that the cabbage cured all diseases, and de-
clared, that it was to its use that the Romans were enabled to
live in health and without the assistance of physicians for 600
years. It was introduced by that people into Germany, Gaul,
and, no doubt, Britain; although, in this last, it may have
been suffered to pass into desuetude for some centuries.

The whole tribe is in general wholesome and nutritive, and forms a valuable adjunct to
animal food.

CABBAGE SEEDING.

SOUP A LA CAUTATRICE.

(An Excellent Soup, very Beneficial for the Voice.)

119. Ingredients.— 3 oz. of sago, | pint of cream, the yolts of
3 eggs, 1 lump of sugar, and seasoning to taste, 1 bay-leaf (if liked),
2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

Mode. — Having washed the sago in boiling water, let it be gra-
J dually added to the nearly boiling stock. Simmer for £ an hour,
I when it should be well dissolved. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add
l to them the boiling cream ; stir these quickly in the soup, and serve'
1 immediately. Do not let the soup boil, or the eggs will curdle.
Time— 40 minutes. Average cost, Is. G d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. This is a soup, the principal ingredients of which, sago and
I eggs, have always been deemed very beneficial to the chest and throat.
I In vaiious quantities, and in different preparations, these have been
partaken ol by the principal gingers of the day, including the cele-
brated Swedish Nightingale, Jenny Lind, and, as they have always
avowed, v ith. considerable advantage to the voice, in singing*.

C ABBOT SOUP.

120. Ingredients.— 4 quarts of liquor in which a leg of mutton or
ee^ ^ias ^een foiled, a lew beef-bones, 6 large carrots, 2 large onions,
turnip ; seasoning of salt and pepper to taste ; cayenne.

Mode, l’ut the liquor, bones, onions, turnip, pepper, and salt, into
stewpan, and simmer for 3 hours. Scrape and cut the carrots thin,

<i-l

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

strain the soup on them, and stew them till soft enough to pulp
through a hair sieve or coarse cloth ; then boil the pulp with the
soup, which should he of the consistency of pea-soup. Add cayenne.
Pulp only the red part of the carrot, and make this soup the day
before it is wanted.

Time.— hours. Average cost per quart, 1 \d.

Seasonable from October to March.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

ii.

121. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of carrots, 3 oz. of butter, seasoning to
taste of salt and cayenne, 2 quarts of stock or gravy soup.

Mode. — Scrape and cut out all specks from the carrots, wash, and
wipe them dry, and then reduce them into quarter-inch slices. Put
the butter into a large stewpan, and when it is melted, add 2 lbs. of the
sliced carrots, and let them stew gently for an hour without browning.
Add to them the soup, and allow them to simmer till tender, — say for
nearly an hour. Press them through a strainer with the soup, and
add salt and cayenne if required. Boil the whole gently for 5 minutes,
skim well, and serve as hot as possible.

Time. — lj hour. Average cost per quart, Is. 1 d.

The Caeeot. — There is a wild carrot which grows in England ; hut it is white and
small, and not much esteemed. The garden carrot in general use, was introduced in the

reign of Queen Elizabeth, and was, at first, so highly
esteemed, that the ladies wore leaves of it in their
head-dresses. It is of great value in the culinary art,
especially for soups and stews. It can be used also
for beer instead of malt, and, in distillation, it yields
a large quantity of spirit. The carrot is proportion-
ably valuable as it has more of the red than the
yellow part. There is a large red variety much used
by the farmers for colouring butter. As a garden
vegetable, it is what is called the orange-carrot that
is usually cultivated. As a fattening food for cattle,
it is excellent ; but for man it is indigestible, on
account of its fibrous matter. Of 1,000 parts, 95 consist
of sugar, and 3 of starch. — The accompanying cut represents a pretty winter ornament,
obtained by placing a cut from the top of the carrot-root in a shallow vessel of water,
when the young leaves spring forth with a charming freshness and fullness.

TAZZA AND CAE KOI LEAVES.

CELERY SOUP.

122. Ingredients. — 9 heads of celery, 1 teaspoonful of salt, nutmeg
to taste, 1 lump of sugar, i pint of strong stock, a pint of cream, and
2 quarts of boiling water.

Mode. — Cut the celery into small pieces : throw it into the water,
seasoned with the nutmeg, salt, and sugar. Boil it till sufficiently
tender ; pass it through a sieve, add the stock, and simmer it for half
an hour. Now put in the cream, bring it to the boiling point, and
serve immediately.

Time.— 1 hour. Average cost , Is. per quart.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

Seasonable from September to March.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

Note. — This soup can be made brown, instead of white, by omitting
the cream, and colouring it a little. When celery cannot be procured,
half a drachm of the seed, finely pounded, will give a flavour to the
soup, if put in a quarter of an hour before it is done. A little of the
essence of celery will answer the same purpose.

Celert. — This plant is indigenous to Britain, and, in its wild state, grows by the side
of ditches and along some parts of the seacoast. In this state it is called smallage, and,
to some extent, is a dangerous narcotic. By cultivation, however, it has been brought
to the fine flavour which the garden plant possesses. In the vicinity of Manchester it
is raised to an enormous size. When our natural observation is assisted by the
accurate results ascertained by the light of science, how infinitely does it enhance our
delight in contemplating the products of nature ! To know, for example, that the end-
less variety of colour which we see in plants is developed only by the rays of the sun, is
to know a truism sublime by its very comprehensiveness. The cause of the whiteness of
celery is nothing more than the want of light in its vegetation, and in order that this
effect may be produced, the plant is almost wholly covered with earth ; the tops of the
leaves alone being suffered to appear above the ground.

CHANTILLY SOUP.

123. Ingredients.— 1 quart of young green peas, a small bunch of
parsley, 2 young onions, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

Mode. — Boil the peas till quite tender, with the parsley and onions ;
then rub them through a sieve, and pour the stock to them. Do not
let it boil after the peas are added, or you will spoil the colour. Serve
very hot.

Time.— Half an hour. Average cost. Is. 6 cl. per quart.

Seasonable from June to the end of August.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note.— Cold peas pounded in a mortar, with a little stock added to
them, make a very good soup in haste.

Pahslft.— Among the Greeks, m the classic ages, a crown of parsley was awarded,
both in the Nemman and Isthmian games, and the voluptuous Anacreon pronounces
this beautiful herb the emblem of joy and festivity. It has an elegant leaf, and
is extensively used in the culinary art. When it was introduced to Britain is not known
There are several varieties, -the piain-leaved and the cuWed-leaved, eejery-parsley'
Hamburg parsley, and purslane. The curled is the best, and, from the form of its leaf
has a beautiful appearance on a dish as a garnish. Its flavour is, to many very
agreeable in soups ; and although to rabbits, hares, and sheep it is a luxury, to parrots
nlt fl Z' He celery-parsley is used as a celery, and the Hamburg is cultivated
£ . Jj-. ,ts ™?t3’,,wl;ich a.re U8ed, “9 parsnips or carrots, to eat with meat. The purslane
is a native of South America, and 13 not now much in use. ”

CHESTNUT (SPANISH) SOUP.

124. Ingredients.— | lb. of Spanish chestnuts, j pint of cream;
seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and mace ; 1 quart of stock No. 105
Mode. Take the outer rind from the chestnuts, and put them into
a arge pan of warm water. As soon as this becomes too hot for the
ingers to remain in it., take out the chestnuts, peel them quickly, and

Ci.;

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

immerse them in cold water, and wipe and weigh them. Now cover
them with good stock, and stew them gently for rather more than
| of an hour, or until they break when touched with a fork ; then
drain, pound, and rub them through a tine sieve reversed ; add suf-
ficient stock, mace, cayenne, and salt, and stir it often until it boils,
and put in the cream. The stock in which the chestnuts are boiled
can be used for the soup, when its sweetness is not objected to, or it
may, in part, be added to it; and the rule is, that fib. of chestnuts
should be given to each quart of soup.

Time. — Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost per quart, Is. 6 cl.

Seasonable from October to F ebruary.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

The Chestnut. — This fruit is said, by some, to have originally come from Sardis, in

Lydia ; and by others, from Castanea, a city of
Thessaly, from which it takes its name. By the
ancients it was much used as a food, and is still
common in Trance and Italy, to which countries
it is, by some, considered indigenous. In the
southern part of the European continent, it is
eaten both raw and roasted. The tree was intro-
duced into Britain by the Romans ; but it only
flourishes in the warmer parts of the island, the’
fruit rarely arriving at maturity in Scotland.
It attains a great age, as well as an immense
size. As a food, it is the least oily and most
farinaceous of all the nuts, and, therefore, the
easiest of digestion. The tree called the horse
chestnut is very different, although its fruit very much resembles that of the other.
Its “ nuts,” though eaten by horses and some otjier animals, are unsuitable for human
food.

CHESTNUT.

COCOA-NUT SOUP.

125. Ingredients. — 6 oz. of grated cocoa-nut, 6 oz. of rice flour,

1 a teaspoonful of mace ; seasoning to taste of cayenne and salt ; \ of
a pint of boiling cream, 3 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

Mode. — Take the dark rind from the cocoa-nut, and grate it down
small on a clean grater ; weigh it, and allow, for each quart of stock,

2 oz. of the cocoa-nut. Simmer it gently for 1 hour in the stock,
which should then be strained closely from it, and thickened for
table.

Time. — 2j hours. Average cost per quart, Is. 3d.

Seasonable in Autumn.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

The Cocoa-Nut.— This is the fruit of one of (ho palms, than which it is questionable
if there is any other species of troe marking, in itself, so abundantly, the goodness oi
Providence, iu. making provision for ike wants ot man. It grows wild in the Indian
seas, and in the eastern parts of Asia ; and thence it has been introduced into every
part of the tropical regions. To the natives of those climates, its bark supplies the
material for erecting their dwellings ; its leaves, the means of roofing them ; and the
leaf-stalks, a kind of gauze for covering their windows, or protecting the babv in
the cradle. It is also made into lanterns, masks to screen the face from the heat

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

of the sun. baskets, wicker-work, and even a kind of paper for writing on. Combs,

brooms, torches, ropes, matting,
and sailcloth' are made of its
fibres. With these, too, beds
are made and cushions stuffed.

Oars are supplied by the leaves ;
drinking-cups, spoons, and other
domestic utensils by the shells
of the nuts ; milk by its juice,
of which, also, a kind of honey
and sugar are prepared. When
fermented, it furnishes the means
of intoxication ; and when the
fibres are burned, their ashes
supply an alkali for making soap.

The buds of the tree bear a
striking resemblance to cabbage
when boiled ; but when they are
cropped, the tree dies. In a
fresh state, the kernel is eaten
raw, and its juice' is a most
agreeable and refreshing beve-
rage. When the nht is imported
to this country, its fruit is, in
general, comparatively dry, and

is considered indigestible. The HUT & BLOSSOM,
tree is one of the least pro-
ductive of the palm tribe.

SOUP A LA CPECT.

126. Ingredients. — 4 carrots, 2 sliced onions, 1 cut lettuce, and
chervil ; 2 oz. butter, 1 pint of lentils, the crumbs of 2 French rolls,
half a teacupful of rice, 2 quarts of medium stock No. 105.

Mode. — Put the vegetables with the butter in the stewpan, and let
them simmer 5 minutes ; then add the lentils and 1 pint of the stock,
and stew gently for half an hour. Now fill it up with the remainder
of the stock, let it boil another hour, and put in the crumb of the
rolls. When well soaked, rub all through a tammy,
rice boiled ; pour the soup over this, and serve.

Time. — hour. Average cost, Is. 2d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

The Lentil.— This belongs to the legumious or pulse kind of
vegetables, which rank next to the corn plants in their nutritive
properties. The lentil is a variety of the bean tribe, but in Eng-
land is not used as human food, although considered the best of
all kinds for pigeons. On the Continent it is cultivated for soups,
as well as for other preparations for the table ; and among the
presents which David received from Shobi, as recounted in the
Scriptures, were beans, lentils, and parched pulse. Among the
Egyptians it was extensively used, and among the Greeks, the
Stoics had a maxim, which declared, that “a wise man acts
always with reason, and prepares his own lentils.” Among the
Romans it was not much esteemed, and from them the English
may have inherited a prejudice against it, on account, it is said,
of its rendering men indolent, ft takes its name from leuf.ua,

‘ slow,’ and, according to Pliny, produces mildness and moderation
01 temper.

F 2

Have ready the

COCOA-NUT PALM.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

CUCUMBER SOUP (French. Recipe).

127. Ingredients.— 1 large cucumber, a piece of butter the size of
a walnut, a little chervil and sorrel cut in large pieces salt and
pepper to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 gill of cream, 1 quart of
medium stock No. 105.

Mode. — Pare the cucumber, quarter it, and take out the seeds; cut
it in thin slices, put these on a plate with a little salt, to draw the
water from them ; drain, and put them in your stewpan, with the
butter. When they are warmed through, without being browned,
pour the stock on them. Add the sorrel, chervil, and seasoning, and
boil for 40 minutes. Mix the well-beaten yolks of the eggs with the
cream, which add at the moment of serving.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, Is. 2d. per quart.

Seasonable from June to September.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

The Cucumber. — The antiquity of this fruit is very great. In the sacred writings we
find that the people of Israel regretted it, whilst sojourning in the desert; aud at the
present time, the cucumber, and other fruits of its class, form a large portion of the food
of the Egyptian people. By the Eastern nations generally, as well as by the Greeks and
Romans, it was greatly esteemed. Like the melon, it was originally brought from Asia
by the Romans, and in the 1 -1th century it was common in England, although, in the time
of the wars of “ the Roses,” it seems no longer to have been cultivated. It is a cold
food, and of difficult digestion when eaten raw. As a preserved sweetmeat, however,
it is esteemed one of the most agreeable.

EGG SOUP.

128. Ingredients. — A tablespoonful of Hour, 4 eggs, 2 small blade#
of finely-pounded mace, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

Mode. — Beat up the flour smoothly in a teaspoonful of cold stock,
and put in the eggs ; throw them into boiling stock, stirring all the
time. Simmer for \ of an hour. Season and serve with a French
roll in the tureen, or fried sippets of bread.

Time. — § an hour.' Average cost, 11 d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

SOUP A LA FLAMAUDE (Flemish).

129. Ingredients. — 1 turnip, 1 small carrot, § head of celery,
G green onions shred very fine, 1 lettuce cut small, chervil, 5 pint of
asparagus cut small, £ pint of peas, 2 oz. butter, the yolks of 4 eggs,
i pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

Mode. — Put the vegetables in the butter to stew gently for an hour
with a teacupful of stock ; then add the remainder of the stock, and

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

simmer for another hour. Now beat the yolks of the eggs well, mix
with the cream (previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve.
Take the soup oft’ the fire, put the eggs, &e. to it, and keep stirring it
well. Bring it to a boil, but do not leave off stirring, or the eggs will
curdle. Season with salt, and add the sugar.

Time. — 2| hours. Average cost, Is. 9 d. per quart.

Seasonable from May to August.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Chekvil. — Although the roots of this plant are poisonous, its leaves are tender, and
are used in salads. In antiquity it made a relishing dish, when prepared with oil, wine,
and gravy. It is a native of various parts of Europe ; and the species cultivated in the
gardens of Paris, has beautifully frizzled leaves.

II.

130. Ingredients. — 5 onions, 5 heads of celery, 10 moderate-sized
potatoes, 3 oz. butter, § pint of water, k pint of cream, 2 quarts
of stock No. 105.

Mode. — Slice the onions, celery, and potatoes, and put them with
the butter and water into a stewpan, and simmer for an hour. Then
fill up the stewpan with stock, and boil gently till the potatoes are
done, which will be in about an hour. Bub all through a tammy, and
add the cream (previously boiled). Do not let it boil after the cream
is put in.

Time. — 2V hours. Average cost, Is. id. per quart.

Seasonable from September to May.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — This soup can he made with water instead of stock.

SOUP A LA JULIENNE.

1 3 1 • Ingredients. — 4 pint of carrots, i pint of turnips, 5 pint of
onions, 2 or 3 leeks, h head of celery, 1 lettuce,
a little sorrel and chervil, if liked, 2oz. of butter,

2 quarts of stock No. 105.

Mode. — Cut the vegetables into strips of about
li inch long, and be particular they are all the
same size, or some will be hard whilst the others
will be done to a pulp. Cut the lettuce, sorrel,
and chervil into larger pieces ; fry the carrots
in the butter, and pour the stock boiling to
them. When this is done, add all the other
vegetables, and herbs, and stew gently for at
least an hour. Skim off all the fat, pour the
soup over thin slices of bread, cut round about the size of a
shilling, and serve.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — li hour. Average cost, Is. 3 cl. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note.— In summer, green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, &c.
can he added. When the vegetables are very strong, instead of frying
them in butter at first, they should be blanched, and afterwards sim-
mered in the stock.

Sorrel. — This is one of the sphiaceoim plants, which take their name from spinach,
which is the chief among them. It is little used in English cookery, but a great deal in
French, where it is employed for soups, sauces, and salads. In English meadows it is
usually left to grow wild; but in France, where it is cultivated, its flavour is greatly
improved.

KALE BROSE (a Scotch. Recipe).

i32. Ingredients.— Half an ox -head or cow-heel, a teacupful of
toasted oatmeal, salt to taste, 2 handfuls of greens, 3 quarts of water.

Mode. — Make a broth of the ox-head or cow-heel, and boil it till oil
floats on the top of the liquor, then boil the greens, shred, in it. Put
the oatmeal, with a little salt, into a basin, and mix with it quickly
a teacupful of the fat broth : it should not run into one doughy
mass, but form knots. Stir it into the whole, give one boil, and serve
very hot.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, Scl. per quart.

Seasonable all the year, but more suitable in winter.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

LEEK SOUP.

133. Ingredients. — A sheep’s head, 3 quarts of water, 12 leeks cut
small, pepper and salt to taste, oatmeal to thicken.

Mode. — Prepare the head, either by skinning or cleaning the skin
very nicely ; split it in two ; take out the brains, and put it into boiling
water ; add the leeks and seasoning, and simmer very gently for 4
hours. Mix smoothly, with cold water, as much oatmeal as will
make the soup tolerably thick ; pour it into the soup ; continue
stirring till the whole is blended and well done, and serve.

Time. — 4 2 hours. Average cost, 4 d. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

COMMONLY CALLED COCK-A-LEEKIE.

134. Ingredients. — A capon or large fowl (sometimes an old cock,
from which the recipe takes its name, is used), which should be

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUTS.

trussed aS for boiling; 2 or 3 bunches of fine leeks, 5 quarts of
stock No. 105, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — "Well wash the leeks (and, if old, scald them in boiling
water for a few minutes), taking off the roots and part of the heads,
and cut them into lengths of about an inch. Put the fowl into the
stock, with, at first, one half of the leeks, and allow it to simmer
gently. In half an hour add the remaining leeks, and then it may
simmer for 3 or 4 hours longer. It should be carefully skimmed, and
can be seasoned to taste. In serving, take out the fowl, and carve it
neatly, placing the pieces in a tureen, and pouring over them the soup,
which should be very thick of leeks (a puree of leeks the French
would call it).

Time— 4 hours. Average cost, Is. 6c?. per quart ; or, with stock
No. 106, Is.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

Note. — Without the fowl, the above, which would then be merely
called leek soup, is very good, and also economical. Cock-a-leekie
was largely consumed at the Burns Centenary Festival at the Crystal
Palace, Sydenham, in 1859.

The Leek. — As in the case of the cucumber, this vegetable was bewailed by the
Israelites in their journey through the desert. It is. one of the
alliaceous tribe, which consists ot the onion, garlic, chive, shallot,
and leek. These, as articles of food, are perhaps more widely
diffused over the face of the earth than any other genus of edible
plants. It is the national badge of the Welsh, and tradition
ascribes its introduction to that part of Britain, to St. David.

The origin of the wearing of the leek on St. David’s day, among
that people, is thus given in “ Beeton’s Dictiohaby op Uni-
yebsal Inpoeaiation — “ It probably originated from the cus-
tom of Cymhortha, or the friendly aid, practised among farmers. In
some districts of South Wales, all the neighbours of a small farmer
were wont to appoint a day when they attended to plough his land,
and the like ; and, at such time, it was the custom for each to bring
his portion of leeks with him for making the broth or soup.” (See
Si. David.) Others derive the origin of the custom from the battle
of Cressy. The plant, when grown m Wales and Scotland, is sharper
than it is in England, and its flavour is preferred by many to that of the onion in broth.
It is very wholesome, and, to prevent its tainting the breath, should be well boiled.

MACARONI SOUP.

135. Ingredients. — 3 oz. of macaroni, a piece of butter tbe size of
a walnut, salt to taste, 2 quarts of clear stock No. 105.

Mode. — Throw the macaroni and butter into boiling water, with a
pinch of salt, and simmer for £ an hour. When it is tender, drain and
cut it into thin rings or lengths, and drop it into the boiling stock.
Stew gently for 15 minutes, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with it.

Time. — f hour. Average cost, Is. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

72 MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Macaroni. This is the favourite iood of Italy, where, especially among the Nea-
politans, ib may be regarded as the staff of life. “ The crowd
<>( London,” says Mr. Forsyth, “ is a double line in quick motion;
it is the crowd of business. The crowd of Naples consists in a
general tide rolling up and down, and in the middle of this tide,
a hundred eddies of men. You are stopped by a carpenter’s
bench, you are lost among shoemakers’ stalls,’ and you dash
among the pots of a macaroni stall” This article of food is
nothing more than a thick paste, made of the best wheaten flour,
with a small quantity of water. When it has been well worked,
it is put into a hollow cylindrical vessel, pierced with holes of the
size of tobacco-pipes at the bottom. Through these holes the mass
is forced by a powerful screw bearing on a piece of wood made
exactly to lit the inside of the cylinder. Whilst issuing from the
holes, it is partially baked by a lire placed below the cylinder,
and is, at the same time, drawn away and hung over rods placed
about the room, in order to dry. In a few days it is lit for use.
macaroni. As it is both wholesome and nutritious, it ought to be much
more used by all classes in England than it is. It generally ac-
companies Parmesan cheese to the tables of the rich, but is also used for thickening
soups and making puddings.

SOUP MAIGEE (i. e. without Meat).

136. Ingredients. — 6 oz. butter, 6 onions sliced, 4 heads of celery,
2 lettuces, a small bunch of parsley, 2 handfuls of spinach, 3 pieces of
bread-crust, 2 blades of mace, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of
2 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, and put in the onions to stew
gently for 3 or 4 minutes ; then add the celery, spinach, lettuces, and
parsley, cut small. Stir the ingredients well for 10 minutes. How
put in the water, bread, seasoning, and mace. Boil gently for 1$ hour,
and, at the moment of serving, beat in the yolks of the eggs and the
vinegar, but do not let it boil, or the eggs will curdle.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 6d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

The Lettuce.— This is one of the acetarious vegetables,
which comprise a large class, chiefly used as pickles, salads,
and other condiments. The lettuce has in all antiquity been
distinguished as a kitchen-garden plant. It was, without
preparation, eaten by the Hebrews with the Paschal lamb;
the Greeks delighted in it, and the Homans, in the time of
Domitian, had it prepared with eggs, and served in the first
course at their tables, merely to excite their appetites. Its
botanical name is Lac/uca, so called from the milky juice it
exudes when its stalks are cut. It possesses a narcotic virtue,
noticed by ancient, physicians ; and even in our day a lettuce
supper is deemed conducive to repose. Its proper character,
however, is that of a cooling summer vegetable, not very
nutritive, but serving to correct, or as a diluent of animal food.

LETTUCE.

MILK SOUP (a Nice Dish for Children).

137. Ingredients. — 2 quarts of milk, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 tea-
spoonful of powdered cinnamon, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, or
more if liked, 4 thin slices of bread, the yolks of 6 eggs.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

Mode. — Boil the milk with the salt, cinnamon, and sugar ; lay the
bread in a deep dish, pour over it a little of the milk, and keep it hot
over a stove, without burning. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, add
them to the milk, and stir it over the fire till it thickens. Do not let
it curdle. Pour it upon the bread, and serve.

Time. — f of an hour. Average cost , 8 d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 10 children.

ONION SOUP.

138. Ingredients. — 6 large onions, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper
to taste, 1 pint of cream, 1 quart of stock JSTo. 105.

Mode. — Chop the onions, put them in the butter, stir them occa-
sionally, but do not let them brown. When tender, put the stock to
them, and season ; strain the soup, and add the boiling cream.

Time.— 1| hour. Average cost, Is. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

CHEAP ONION SOUP.

139. Ingredients. — 8 middling-sized onions, 3 oz. of butter, a table-
spoonful of rice-flour, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of pow-
dered sugar, thickening of butter and flour, 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Cut the onions small, put them in the stewpan with the
butter, and fry them well ; mix the rice-flour smoothly
with the water, add the onions, seasoning, and sugar, and
simmer till tender. Thicken with butter and flour, and
serve.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, id. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

The Onion. — Like the cabbage, this plant was erected into an object
of worship by the idolatrous Egyptians 2,000 years before the Christian
era, and it still forms a favourite food in the country of these people, as
weli as in other parts of Africa. When it was first introduced to England,
has not been ascertained ; but it has long been in use, and esteemed as a
favourite seasoning plant to various dishes. In warmer climates it is
much milder in its flavour ; and such as are grown in Spain and Portugal,
are, comparatively speaking, very large, and are often eaten both in a
boiled and roasted state. The Strasburg is the most esteemed ; and,
although all the species have highly nutritive properties, they impart such a disagreeable
odour to the breath, that they are often rejected even where they are liked. Chewing a
little raw parsley is said to remove this odour.

PAN KAIL.

140. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of cabbage, or Savoy greens ; \ lb. of

OXION.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

butter or dripping, salt and pepper to taste, oatmeal for thickening,
2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Chop the cabbage very fine, thicken the water with oatmeal,
put in the cabbage and butter, or dripping ; season and simmer for
la hour. It can be made sooner by .blanching and mashing the
greens, adding any good liquor that a joint has been boiled in, and
then further thicken with bread or pounded biscuit.

Time — 1| hour. Average cost , l\d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year, but more suitable in winter.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

This Savoy. — This is a close-hearted wrinkle-leaved cabbage, S'vect and tender,
especially the middle leaves, and in season from November to spring. The yellow species
bears hard weather without injury, whilst the dwarf kmd are improved and rendered
more tender by frost.

PARSNIP SOUP.

141. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of sliced parsnips, 2 oz. of butter, salt and
cayenne to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.

Mode. — Put the parsnips into the stewpan with the butter, which
has been previously melted, and simmer them till quite tender. Then
add nearly a pint of stock, and boil together for half an hour. Pass
all through a fine strainer, and put to it the remainder of the stock.
Season, boil, and serve immediately.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 6 d. per quart.

Seasonable from October to April.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

The Parsnip. — This is a biennial plant, with a root like a carrot, which, in nutritive
and saccharine matter, it nearly equals. It is a native of Britain, and, in its wild state,
nitiy be found, in many parts, growing by the road-sides. It is also to be found,

feudally distributed over Europe ; and, in Catholic countries, is mostly used with salt
sh, in Lent. In Scotland it forms an excellent dish, when beat up with butter and
potatoes ; it is, also, excellent when fried. In Ireland it is found to yield, in conjunction
with the hop, a pleasant beverage ; and it contains as much spirit as the carrot, and
makes an excellent wine. Its proportion of nutritive matter is 99 parts in 1,000;
9 being mucilage and 90 sugar.

PEA SOUP (GREEN).

142. Ingredients. — 3 pints of green peas, \ lb. of butter, 2 or three
thin slices of ham, 6 onions sliced, 4 shredded lettuces, the crumb of
2 French rolls, 2 handfuls of spinach, 1 lump of sugar, 2 quarts of
common stock.

Mode. — Put the butter, ham, 1 quart of the peas, onions, and let-
tuces, to a pint of stock, and simmer for an hour; then add the
remainder of the stock, with the crumb of the French rolls, and boil
for another hour. Now boil the spinach, and squeeze it very dry.
Hub the soup through a sieve, and the spinach with it, to colour it.

PRD IT AND VEGETABLE S0UP3.

Have ready a pint of young peas boiled ; add them to the soup, put
iu the sugar, give one boil, and serve. If necessary, add salt.

Time— 2% hours. Average cost. Is. 9 d. per quart.

Seasonable from June to the end of August.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

Note. — It will be well to add, if the peas are not quite young, a
little sugar. Where economy is essential, water may be used instead
of stock for this soup, boiling in it likewise the pea-shells ; but use a
double quantity of vegetables.

WINTER PEA SOUP (YELLOW).

143. Ingredients. — 1 quart of split peas, 2 lbs. of shin of beef,
trimmings of meat or poultry, a slice of bacon, 2 large carrots, 2 tur-
nips, 5 large onions, 1 head of celery, seasoning to taste, 2 quarts of
soft water, any bones left from roast meat, 2 quarts of common stock,
or liquor in which a joint of meat has been boiled.

Mode. — Put the peas to soak over-night in soft water, and float off
such as rise to the top. Boil them in the water till tender enough to
pulp ; then add the ingredients mentioned above, and simmer for
2 hours, stirring it occasionally. Pass the whole through a sieve,
skim well, season, and serve with toasted bread cut in dice.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, 6 cl. per quart.

Seasonable all the year round, but more suitable for cold weather.

Sufficient for 12 persons.

The Pea. — It is supposed that the common gray pea, found -wild in Greece, and other
parts of the Levant, is the original of the common
garden pea, and of all the domestic varieties belong-
ing to it. The gray, or field pea, called bisallie by
the French, is less subject to run into varieties than
the garden kinds, and is considered by some, per-
haps on that account, to he the wild plant, retaining
still a large proportion of its original habit. From
the tendency of all other varieties “to run away”
and become different to what they originally were, it
is very difficult to determine the races to which they
belong. The pea was well known to the Romans,
and, probably, was introduced to Britain at an early
period; for we find peas mentioned by Lydgate, a
poet of the 15th century, as being hawked in London.

They seem, however, for a considerable time, to
have fallen out of use ; for, in the reign of Queen
Elizabeth, Fuller tells us they were brought from
Holland, and were accounted “ fit dainties for ladies,
they came so far and cost so dear.” There are some
varieties of peas which have no lining in their pods,
which are eaten cooked in the same way as kidney-
beans. They are galled sugar pease, and the best
variety is the large crooked sugar, which is also very
good, used in the common way, as a culinary vege-
table. There is also a white sort, which readily
splits when subjected to the action of millstones set

wide apart, so as not to grind them. These are used largely for soups, and especially
lor sca-stores I< rom the quantity of farinaceous and saccharine matter contained in tho
pea, it is highly nutritious as an article of food.

7t>

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

PEA SOUP (inexpensive).

144- Ingredients.— £ lb. of onions, £ lb. of carrots, 2 oz. of celery,
’{ lb. of split peas, a little mint, shred, fine ; 1 tablespoonful of coarse
brown sugar, salt and pepper to taste, 4 quarts of water, or liquor in
which a joint of meat has been boiled.

Mode.— Fry the vegetables for 10 minutes in a little butter or
dripping, previously cutting them up in small pieces ; pour the water
on them, and when boiling add the peas. Let them simmer for nearly
3 hours, or until the peas are thoroughly done. Add the sugar,
seasoning, and mint ; boil for £ of an hour, and serve.

Time. — 3£ hours. Average cost, li d. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 12 persons.

POTATO SOUP.

145. Ingredients.— 4 lbs. of mealy potatoes, boiled or steamed very
•dry, pepper and salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

Mode. — When the potatoes are boiled, mash them smoothly, that no
lumps remain, and gradually put them to the boiling stock ; pass it
through a sieve, season, and simmer for 5 minutes. Skim well, and
serve with fried bread.

Time.—? hour. Average cost, 10 d. per quart.

Seasonable from September to March.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

II.

146. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of shin of beef, 1 lb. of potatoes, 1 onion,
| a pint of peas, 2 oz. of rice, 2 heads of celery, pepper and salt to
taste, 3 quarts of water.

Mode. — Cut the beef into thin slices, chop the potatoes and onion,
and put them in a stewpan with the water, peas, and rice. Stew
gently till the gravy is drawn from the meat ; strain it oil, take out
the beef, and pulp the other ingredients through a coarse sieve. Put
the pulp back in the soup, cut up the celery in it, and simmer till this
is tender. Season, and serve with fried bread cut into it.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, id. per quart.

Seasonable from September to March.

Sufficient for 12 persons.

in.

( I 'erg JEconpm ica l. )

»47. Ingredients. — 4 middle-sized potatoes well pared, a thick

FKl)lT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

slice of bread, 6 leeks peeled and cut into tliin. slices as far as the
white extends upwards from the roots, a teacup ful of rice, a teaspoon-
ful of salt, and half that of pepper, and 2 quarts of water.

3Iode. — The water must he completely boiling before anything is
put into it ; then add the whole of the ingredients at once, with the
exception of the rice, the salt, and the pepper. Cover, and let these
come to a brisk boil ; put in the others, and let the whole boil slowly
for an hour, or till all the ingredients are thoroug hly done, and their
several juices extracted and mixed.

Time. — hours. Average cost , 3 d. per quart.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Seasonable in winter.

The Potato. — Humboldt doubted whether this root was a
native of South America ; but it has been found growing wild
both in Chili and Buenos Ayres. It wfas first brought to Spain
from the neighbourhood of Quito, in the early part of the
sixteenth century, first to England from Virginia, in 1586, and
first planted by Sir Walter Kaleigh, on his estate of Youghal,
near Cork, in Ireland. Thence it was brought and planted in
Lancashire, in England, and was at first recommended to be
eaten as a delicate dish, and not as common food. This was
in 1587. Nutritious Properties.— Of a thousand parts of the potato, Sir H. Davy found
about a fourth nutritive ; say, 200 mucilage or starch, 20 sugar, and 30 gluten.

TOTATOES.

PRINCE OP WALES’S SOUP.

148. Ingredients. — 12 turnips, 1 lump of sugar, 2 spoonfuls of
strong veal stock, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of very
bright stock, No. 105.

Mode. — Peel the turnips, and with a cutter cut them in balls as round
as possible, but very small. Put them in the stock, which must be
very bright, and simmer till tender. Add the veal stock and season-
ing. Have little pieces of bread cut round, about the size of a
shilling ; moisten them with stock ; put them into a tureen and pour
the soup over without shaking, for fear of crumbling the bread, which
would spoil the appearance of the soup, and make it look thick.

Time. — 2 hours.

Seasonable in the winter.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

The Prince of Wales. — This soup was invented by a philanthropic friend of the
Editress, to be distributed among the poor of a considerable village, when the Prince of
Wales attained his majority, on the 9th November, 1859. Accompanying this fact, the
following notice, which appears in “ Beeton’s Dictionary of Universal Informa-
tion," may appropriately be -introduced, premising that British princes attain their
majority in their 18th year, whilst mortals of ordinary rank do not arrive at that period
till their 21st. — “ Alhebt Edwaiid, Prince of Wales, and heir to the British throne,
meritB a place in this work on account of the high responsibilities which ho is, ill all pro-
bability, destined to fulfil as sovereign of the British empire. On the 10th of November,
1858, lie was gazetted us having been invested with the rank of a eolonel in the army.
Speaking of this circumstance, the Times said, — ‘ The significance of this event is, that
it marks the period when the heir to the British throne is about to take rank among

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

men, and to enter formally upon a enreer, which every loyal subject of the queen will
pray may be a long and a happy one, for his own sa’ko and for the sake of tile vast
empire which, in the course of nature, he will one day be called to govern. The best
wish that we can offer for the young prince is, that in his own path he may ever keep
before him the bright example of ins royal mother, and show himself worthy of her
name.’ There are few in these realms who will not give a fervent response to these
sentiments, n. November 9th, 18-11.”

POTAGE PRINTANIEB, OR SPRING SOUP.

149- Ingredients.— I a pint of green peas, if in season, a little
chervil, 2 shredded lettuces, 2 onions, a very small bunch of parsley,
2 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 pint of water, seasoning to
taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

Mode. — Put in a very clean stewpan the chervil, lettuces, onions,
parsley, and butter, to 1 pint of water, and let them simmer till
tender. Season with salt and pepper ; when done, strain off the vege-
tables, and put two -thirds of the liquor they were boiled in to the
stock. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third, give it
a toss over the fire, and at the moment of serving, add this, with the
vegetables which you strained off, to the soup.

Time. — § of an hour. Average cost, Is. per quart.

Seasonable from May to October.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

RICE SOUP.

150.

Ingredients. — 4 oz. of Patna rice, salt, cayenne, and mace,
2 quarts of white stock.

Mode. — Throw the rice into boiling water, and
let it remain 0 minutes ; then pour it into a sieve,
and allow it to drain well. Now add it to the stock
boiling, and allow it to stew till it is quite tender ;
season to taste. Serve quickly.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, Is. 3 d. per quart.
Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Rice.— This is a plant of Indian origin, and has formed the
principal food of the Indian and Chinese people from the most
remote antiquity. Both Pliny and Diosoondcs class it with the
cereals, though Galen places it among the vegetables.^ Be this as
it may, however, it w'as imported to Greece, from India, about 236
years’ before Christ, and by the ancients it was esteemed both
nutritious and fattening. There are three kinds of rice,— the llill
rieo, the Patna, ami the Carolina, of the United States. Ot these,
only the two latter are imported to this country, and the Carolina is
considered the best, as it is the dearest. Pile nourishing pro-
ears of rice. perties of rice nre greatly inferior to those of wheat ; but it is
both a light and a wholesome food. In combination with other
foods, its nutritive qualities are grently increased: but tram its having little stimulating
power, it is apt, when taken in large quantities alone, to lie long on the stomach.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

II.

151. Ingredients. — 6 oz. of rice, the yolks of 4 eggs, \ a pint of
cream, rather more than 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

Mode. — Boil the rice in the stock, and rub half of it through a tammy ;
put the stock in the stew pan, add all the rice, and simmer gently for
5 minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs, mix them with the cream
(previously boiled), and strain through a hair sieve ; take the soup off
the fire, add the eggs and cream, stirring frequently. Heat it gra-
dually, stirring all the time ; hut do not let it boil, or the eggs will
curdle.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, Is. id. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

SAGO SOUP.

152. Ingredients.— 5 oz. of sago, 2 quarts of stock No. 105.

Mode. — Wash the sago in boiling water, and add it, by degrees, to
the boiling stock, and simmer till the sago is entirely dissolved, and
forms a sort of jelly.

Time. — Nearly an hour. Average cost, 10 cl. per quart.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Seasonable all the year .

Note. — The yolks of 2 eggs, beaten up with a little cream, previously

boiled, and added at the moment of

serving, much improves this soup.

Sago. — The farinaceous food of this name con-
stitutes the pith of the Sago tree (the Sagusfari-
nifera of Linnaeus), which grows spontaneously in
the East Indies and, in the archipelago of the Indian
Ocean. There it forms the principal farinaceous
diet of the inhabitants. In order to procure it,
the tree is felled and sawn in pieces. The pith is
'then taken out, and put in receptacles of cold
•water, where it is stirred until the flour separates
ifrom the filaments, and sinks to the bottom, where
fit is suffered to remain until the water is poured off,
when it is taken out and spread on wicker frames
(to dry. To give it the round granular form in
which we find it come to this country, it is passed
hrough a colander, then rubbed into little balls,
ind dried. The tree is not fit for felling until it has
ittained a growth of seven years, when a single

trunk will yield 600 lbs. weight; and, as an acre of sago palw

(ground will grow 430 of these trees, a large return

flour is the result. The best quality has a slightly reddish hue, and easily dissolve;
o a jelly, in hot water. As a restorative diet, it is much used.

SEMOLINA SOUP.

i53- Ingredients. — 5 oz. of semolina, 2 quarts of boilin'* stock
No. 105, or 106.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode.— Drop the semolina into the boiling stock, and keep stirring,
to prevent its burning. Simmer gently for half an hour, and serve.

Time. — a an hour. Average cost, 10 d. per quart, or 4 d.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Semolina.— This is the heart of the r/rano iluro wheat of Italy, which is imported for
the purpose of making the best vermicelli. It has a coarse appearance, and may be
purchased at the Italian warehouses. It is also called soojee ; and semolettn is another
name for a finer sort.

SOUP A LA SOLFERINO (Sardinian Recipe).

154. Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 2 oz. of fresh butter,
salt and pepper to taste, a little flour to thicken, 2 quarts of bouillon,
No. 105.

Mode. — Beat the eggs, put them into a stewpan, and add the cream,
butter, and seasoning ; stir in as much flour as will bring it to
the consistency of dough ; make it into balls, either round or egg-
shaped, and fry them in butter ; put them in the tureen, and pour
the boiling bouillon over them.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, Is. 3(7. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for S persons.

Note. — This recipe was communicated to the Editress by an English
gentleman, who was present at the battle of Solferino, on June 24, 1859,
and who was requested by some of Victor Emmanuel’s troops, on the
day before the battle, to partake of a portion of their potage. He
willingly enough consented, and found that these clever campaigners
had made a most palatable dish from very easily-procured materials.
In sending the recipe for insertion in this work, he has, however,
Anglicized, and somewhat, he thinks, improved it.

SPINACH SOUP (French Recipe).

155. Ingredients. — As much spinach as, when boiled, will half
fill a vegetable-dish, 2 quarts of very clear medium
stock, No. 105.

Mode. — Make the cooked spinach into balls the
size of an egg, and slip them into the soup-tureen.
This is a very elegant soup, the green of the spinach
forming a pretty contrast to the brown gravy.
Time.— 1 hour. Average cost. Is. per quart.
Seasonable from October to June.

Spinach. — This plant was unknown by (lie ancients, although
it was cultivated in the monastic gardens of the continent iu the
middle of the 11th century. Some say, that it was originally
brought from Spain; but there is a wild species growing in
England, and cultivated in Lincolnshire, in preference to the
other. There are three varieties iu use; the round-leaved, the triangular-leaved, and

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

Flanders spinach, known by its large leaves. They all form a useful ingredient in soup ;
but the leaves are sometimes boiled alone mashed, and eaten as greens.

' t

TAPIOCA SOUP.

156. Ingredients. — 5 oz. of tapioca, 2 quarts of stock Ho. 105 or 106.

Mode. — Put the tapioca into cold stock, and bring it gradually to a
boil. Simmer gently till tender, and serve.

Time. — llather more than 1 hour. Average cost, Is. or 6 d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for S persons.

Tapioca. — Thi3 excellent farinaceous food is the produce of tlie pith of the cassava -
tree, and is made in the East Indies, and also in Brazil. It is, by washing, procured as
a starch from the tree, then dried, either in the sun or on plates of hot iron, and afterwards
broken into grains, in which form it is imported into this country. Its nutritive pro-
perties are large, and as a food for persons of delicate digestion, or for children, it is in
great estimation. “No amylaceous substance,” says Dr. Christison, “is so much
relished by infants about the time of weaning ; and in them it is less apt to become sour
during digestion than any other farinaceous food, even arrowroot not excepted.”

TUMSTIP SOUP.

157* Ingredients. — 3 oz. of butter, 9 good-sized turnips, 4 onions,
2 quarts of stock Ho. 106, seasoning to taste.

Mode. — Melt the butter in the stewpan, but do not let it boil ; wash,
drain, and slice the turnips and onions very thin ; put them in the
butter, with a teacupful of stock, and stew very gently for an hour.
Then add the remainder of the stock, and simmer another hour. Hub
it through a tammy, put it back into the stew-
pan, but do not let it boil. Serve very hot.

Time. — 2§ hours. Average cost, 8 d. per quart.

Seasonable from October to March.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — By adding a little cream, this soup will
be much improved.

The Turnip. — Although turnips grow wild in England, they
are not the original of the cultivated vegetable made use of in
this country. In ancient times they were grown for cattle by the
Romans, and in'Germany and the Low Countries they have from
time immemorial been raised for the same purpose. In their
cultivated state, they are generally supposed to have been intro-
duced to England from Hanover, in the time of George I. ; but
this has been doubted, as George II. caused a description of the
Norfolk system to be sent to liis Hanoverian subjects, for their enlightenment in tho
art of turnip culture. As a culinary vegetable, it is excellent, whether eaten alone,
mashed, or mixed with soups and stews. Its nutritious matter, however, is small, being
only 42 parts m 1,000. * b

VEGETABLE-MARROW SOUP.

158. Ingredients. — 4 young vegetable marrows, or more, if very
small, 3 pint of cream, salt and white pepper to taste, 2 quarts of
white stock, Ho. 107.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Average cost , Is. 2d. per

Mode. — Pare and slice the marrows, and put them in the stock
boiling. When done almost to a mash, press them
through a sieve, and at the moment of serving,
add the boiling cream and seasoning.

Time. — 1 hour,
quart.

Seasonable in summer.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

The Vegetable Makkow. — This is a variety of the gourd
family, brought from Persia by an East-India ship, ana only
recently introduced to Britain. It is already cultivated to a
vegetable iiAititow. considerable extent, and, by many, is highly esteemed when
fried with butter. It is, however, dressed in different ways,
either by stewing or boiling, and, besides, made into pies.

VEGETABLE SOUP.

i59- Ingredients. — 7 oz. of carrot, 10 oz. of parsnip, 10 oz. of
potato, cut into thin slices ; lj oz. of butter, 5 teaspoonfuls of flour,
a teaspoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper to taste, the yolks of
2 eggs, rather more than 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Boil the vegetables in the water 2 1 hours ; stir them often,
and if the water boils away too quickly, add more, as there should be
2 quarts of soup when done. Mix up in a basin the butter and flour,
mustard, salt, and pepper, with a teacupful of cold water ; stir in the
soup, and boil 10 minutes. Have ready the yolks of the eggs in the
tureen ; pour on, stir well, and serve.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, id. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

II.

i60. Ingredients.— Equal quantities of onions, carrots, turnips;
j lb. of butter, a crust of toasted bread, 1 head of celery, a faggot of
herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar,
2 quarts of common stock or boiling water. Allow % lb. of vegetables
to 2 quarts of stock, No. 105.

Mode. — Cut up the onions, carrots, and turnips ; wash and drain
them well, and put them in the stew pan with the butter and pow-
dered sugar. Toss the whole over a sharp fire for 10 minutes, but do
not let them brown, or you will spoil the flavour of the soup. When
done, pour the stock or boiling water on them ; add the bread, celery,
herbs, and seasoning ; stew for 3 hours ; skim well and strain it off.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE SOUPS.

When ready to serve, add a little sliced carrot, celery, and turnip,
and flavour with a spoonful of Harvey’s sauce, or a little ketchup.

Time. — 3f'hours. Average cost, 6d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year. Sufficient for 8 persons.

III.

( Good and Cheap, made without Meat.)

161. Ingredients. — 6 potatoes, 4 turnips, or 2 if very large; 2 carrots,
2 onions ; if obtainable, 2 mushrooms ; 1 head of celery, 1 large slice of
bread, 1 small saltspoonful of salt, ^ saltspoonful of ground black
pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce, 6 quarts of water.

Mode. — Peel the vegetables, and cut them up into small pieces ;
toast the bread rather brown, and put all into a stewpan with the
water and seasoning. Simmer gently for 3 hours, or until all is
reduced to a pulp, and pass it through a sieve in the same way
as pea-soup, which it should resemble in consistence ; but it should
be a dark brown colour. Warm it up again when required ; put in
the Harvey’s sauce, and, if necessary, add to the flavouring.

Time. — 3 hours, or rather more. Average cost, Id. per quart.

Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 16 persons.

Note.— This recipe MTas forwarded to the Editress by a lady in the
county of Durham, by whom it was strongly recommended.

VERMICELLI SOUP.

162. Ingredients.— H lb. of bacon, stuck with cloves ; A oz. of
butter, worked up in flour ; 1 small fowl, trussed for boiling ; 2 oz. of
vermicelli, 2 quarts of white stock, Ho. 107.

Mode. Put the stock, bacon, butter, and fowl into the stewpan,
and stew for £ of an hour. Take the vermicelli,
add it to a little of the stock, and set it on the
fire, till it i3 quite tender. WEen the soup is
ready, take out the fowl and bacon, and put the
bacon on a dish. Skim the soup as clean as pos-
sible ; pour it, with the vermicelli, over the fowl.

Cut some bread thin, put in the soup, and serve.

Time.— 2 hours. Average cost, exclusive of the
fowl and bacon, 1 Od. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

TYin'(L.ltfnI<(i!LLI’ 11 PrePnration of Italian origin, anti is vehmicelli.

; "'J 9am? 7ily “H macaron'> only the yolks of eggs,
sugar, saffron, and cheese, are added to the pastel b“

G 2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

IT.

163. Ingredients.— lb. of vermicelli, 2 quarts of clear gravy
stock, No. 169.

Mode. — Put the vermicelli in the soup, boiling; simmer very gently
for i an hour, and stir frequently.

Time. — 4 an hour. Average cost, Is. 'id. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

WHITE SOUP.

164. Ingredients. — I lb. of sweet almonds, \ lb. of cold veal or
poultry, a thick slice of stale bread, a piece of fresh lemon-peel, 1 blade
of mace, pounded, f pint of cream, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs,
2 quarts of white stock, No. 107.

Mode. — Reduce the almonds in a mortar to a paste, with a spoonful
of water, and add to them the meat, which should be previously
pounded with the bread. Beat all together, and add the lemon-peel,
very finely chopped, and the mace. Pour the boiling stock on the
whole, and simmer for an hour. Rub the eggs in the cream, put in
the soup, bring it to a boil, and serve immediately.

Time.—\\ hour. Average cost, Is. 6d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — A more economical white soup may be made by using com-
mon veal stock, and thickening with rice, flour, and milk. Yermicelli
should be served with it.

Average cost, 5d. per quart.

USEFUL SOUP FOR BENEVOLENT PURPOSES.

165. Ingredients.— An ox-cheek, any pieces of trimmings of beef,
which may be bought very cheaply (say 4 lbs.), a few bones, any pot-
liquor the larder may furnish, l peck of onions, 6 leeks, a large bunch
of herbs, 4 lb. of celery (the outside pieces, or green tops, do very
very well) ; 4 lb. of carrots, 4 lb. of turnips, 4 lb. of coarse brown
sugar, 4 a pint of beer, 4 lbs. of common rice, or pearl barley ; 4 lb. of
salt, 1 oz. of black pepper, a few raspings, 10 gallons of water.

Mode. — Cut up the meat in small pieces, break the bones, put them
in a copper, with the 10 gallons of water, and stew for 4 an hour. Cut
up the Vegetables, put them in with the sugar and beer, and boil for
4 hours. Two hours before the soup is wanted, add the rice and
raspings, and keep stirring till it is well mixed in the soup, which
simmer gently. If the liquor reduces too much, fill up with water.

MEAT, POULTRY, A ED GAME SOUPS.

Time. — GA hours. Average cost, l\d. per quart.

Note. — The above recipe was used in the winter of 1858 by the
Editress, who made, each week, in her copper, 8 or 9 gallons of this
soup, for distribution amongst about a dozen families of the village
near which she lives. The cost, as will be seen, was not great ; but
she has reason to believe that it was very much liked, and gave to the
members of those families, a dish of warm, comforting food, in place
of the cold meat and piece of bread which form, with too many cot-
tagers, their usual meal, when, with a little more knowledge of the
“ cooking ” art, they might have, for less expense, a warm dish every
day.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.

BRILLA SOUP.

166. Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 carrots, 2 turnips, a
large sprig of thyme, 2 onions, 1 head of celery, salt and pepper to
taste, 4 quarts water.

Mode. — Take the beef, cut off all the meat from the bone, in nice
square pieces, and boil the bone for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, let it
cool, and take off the fat ; then put the pieces of meat in the cold
liquor ; cut small the carrots, turnips, and celery ; chop the onions,
add them with the thyme and seasoning, and simmer till the meat is
tender. If not brown enough, colour it with browning.

Time. 6 hours. Average cost, 5d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

Thims. This sweet herb was known to the Romans, who made use of it in culinary
preparaUons, as well as in aromatic liqueurs. There are two species of it growing wild
?n lb'1 tain, but the garden thyme is a native of the south of Europe, and is more delicate
m its perlume than the others. Its young leaves give an agreeable flavour to soups and
sauces ; they are also used in stulllngs. 1

CALF’S-HEAD SOUP.

1C7. Ingredients.— 4 a calf’s head, 1 onion stuck with cloves,
a very small bunch of sweet herbs, 2 blades of mace, salt and white
pepper to taste, 6 oz. of rice-flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 3 quarts
of white stock, No. 107, or pot-liquor, or water.

Mode. Eub the head with salt, soak it for 6 hours, and clean it
thoroughly ; put it in the stewpan, and cover it with the stock, or
pot-liquor, or water, adding the onion and sweet herbs. When well
skimmed and boiled for 1* hour, take out the head, and skim and

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

strain the soup. Mix the rice-flour with the ketchup, thicken the
soup with it, and simmer for 5 minutes. Now cut up the head into
pieces about two inches long1, and simmer them in the soup till the
meat and fat are quite tender. Season with white pepper and mace
finely pounded, and serve very hot. When the calf’s head is taken
out of the soup, cover it up, or it will discolour.

Time. — 2.V hours. Average cost, Is. 9 cl. per quart, with stock No. 107.

Seasonable from May to October.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

Note. — F orce-meat balls can be added, and the soup may be flavoured
with a little lemon -juice, or a glass of sherry or Madeira. The bones
from the head may be stewed down again, with a few fresh vegetables,
and it will make a very good common stock.

GIBLET SOUP.

168. Ingredients. — 3 sets of goose or duck giblets, 2 lbs. of shin of
beef, a few bones, 1 ox-tail, 2 mutton-shanks, 2 large onions, 2 carrots,
1 large faggot of herbs, salt and pepper to taste, \ pint of cream,
1 oz. of butter mixed with a dessert- spoonful of flour, 3 quarts of
water.

Mode. — Scald the giblets, cut the gizzards in 8 pieces, and put
them in a stewpan with the beef, bones, ox-tail, mutton-shanks,
onions, herbs, pepper, and salt ; add the 3 quarts of water, and simmer
till the giblets are tender, taking care to skim well. When the gib-
lets are done, take them out, put them in your tureen, strain the soup
through a sieve, add the cream and butter, mixed with a dessert-
spoonful of flour, boil it up a few minutes, and pour it over the gib-
lets. It can be flavoured with port wine and a little mushroom ketchup,
instead of cream. Add salt to taste.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, 9 d. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

GRAVY SOUP.

169. Ingredients. — 6 lbs. of shin of beef, a knuckle of veal weigh-
ing 5 lbs., a few pieces or trimmings, 2 slices of nicely-flavoured lean
ham ; i lb. of butter, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, nearly a head of
celery, 1 blade of mace, 6 cloves, a bunch of savoury herbs, with endive,
seasoning of salt and pepper to taste, 3 lumps of sugar, 5 quarts of
boiling soft water. It can be flavoured with ketchup, Leamington
sauce ( see Sauces), Harvey’s sauce, and a little soy.

Mode. — Slightly brown the meat and ham in the butter, but do not

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.

let them burn. When this is done, pour to it the water, and as the scum
rises, take it off; when no more appears, add all the other ingredients,
and let the soup simmer slowly by the fire for 6 hours without stir-
ring it any more from the bottom ; take it off, and let it settle ; skim
off all the fat you can, and pass it through a
tammy. When perfectly cold, you can remove
all the fat, and leave the sediment untouched,
which serves very nicely for thick gravies,
hashes, &c.

Time. — 7 hours. Average cost, Is. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 14 persons.

Endive. — This plant belongs to the acetarious tribe of vege-
tables, and is supposed to have originally come from China and
Japan. It was known to the ancients ; but was not introduced
to England till about the middle of the 16th century. It is
consumed in large quantities by the French, and in London, —
in the neighbourhood of which it is grown in abundance; — ENDIVE,

it is greatly used as a winter salad, as well as in soups and stews.

HARE SOUP.

170. Ingredients.— A hare fresh-killed, 1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, a
slice of ham, 1 carrot, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, £ oz. of
whole black pepper, a little browned flour, | pint of port wine, the
crumb of two French rolls, salt and cayenne to taste, 3 quarts of
water.

Mode. — Skin and paunch the hare, saving the liver and as much
blood as possible. Cut it in pieces, and put it in a stewpan with all
the ingredients, and simmer gently for 8 hours. This soup should be
made the day before it is wanted. Strain through a sieve, put the
best parts of the hare in the soup, and serve.

OR,

II.

Proceed as above ; but, instead of putting the joints of the hare in
the soup, pick the meat from the bones, pound it in a mortar, and
add it, with the crumb of two French rolls, to the soup. Pub all
through a sieve ; heat slowly, but do not let it boil. Send it to table
immediately.

Time. — 8 hours. Average cost, Is. 9 cl. per quart.

Seasonable from September to February.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

The common Hare.- This little animal is found throughout Europe, and, indeed, in
most of the northern parts of the world; and as it is de’sti-
tute of natural weapons of defence, Providence has endowed
it with an extraordinary amount of the passion of fear. As if
to awaken the vigilance of this passion, too, He has fur-
nished it with long and tubular ears, in order that it may
catcli the remotest sounds; and with full, prominent eyes,
which enable it to see, at 011c and the same time, both before
and behind it. The hare feeds in the evenings, and sleeps,
in its form, during the day; and, as it generally lies on the
ground, its feet, both below and above, are protected with
a thick covering of hair. Its flesh, though esteemed by tbe
Romans, was forbidden by the Druids and by the earlier
Britons. It is now, though very dark and dry, and devoid
of fat, much esteemed by Europeans, on account of the
hare. peculiarity of its flavour. In purchasing this animal, it ought

to be remembered that both hares and rabbits, when old,
have their claws rugged and blunt, their haunches thick, and their ears dry and tough.
The ears of a young hare easily tear, and it has a narrow cleft in the lip; whilst its claws
are both smooth and sharp.

HESSIAN SOUP.

171. Ingredients. — Half an ox’s head, 1 pint of split peas, 8
carrots, 6 turnips, 6 potatoes, 6 onions, 1 head of celery, 1 hunch of
savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of mace, a little all-
spice, 4 cloves, the crumb of a French roll, 6 quarts of water.

Mode. — Clean the head, rub it with salt and water, and soak it for
5 hours in warm water. Simmer it in the water till tender, put
it into a pan and let it cool ; skim off all the fat ; take out the
head, and add the vegetables cut up small, and the peas which
have been previously soaked ; simmer them without the meat, till
they are done enough to pulp through a sieve. Add the seasoning,
with pieces of the meat cut up ; give one boil, and serve.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, 6 cl. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 16 persons.

Note. — An excellent hash or ragout can he made by cutting up the
nicest parts of the head, thickening and seasoning more highly a
little ot the soup, and adding a glass of port wine and. 2 tablespooni'uls
of ketchup.

MOCK TURTLE.

172. Ingredients. — i a calf’s head, \ lb. of butter, i lb. of lean
ham, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, a little minced lemon thyme,
sweet marjoram, basil, 2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms (when
obtainable), 2 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, \ bottle of Madeira
or sherry, force-meat halls, cayenne, salt and mace to taste, the juice of
1 lemon and 1 Seville orange, 1 dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar,
3 quarts of best stock, No. 104.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.

Mode.— Scald the head with the skin on, remove the brain, tie the
head up in a cloth, and let it boil for 1 hour. Then take the meat
from the bones, cut it into small square pieces, and throw them into
cold water. Now take the meat, put it into a stewpan, and cover
with stock ; let it boil gently for an hour, or rather more, if not quite
tender, and set it on one side. Melt the butter in another stewpan,
and add the ham, cut small, with the herbs, parsley, .onions, shal-
lots, mushrooms, and nearly a pint of stock ; let these simmer slowly
for 2 hours, and then dredge in as much flour as will dry up the butter.
T ill up with the remainder of the stock, add the wine, let it stew
gently for 10 minutes, rub it through a tammy, and put it to the
calf’s head; season with cayenne, and, if required, a little salt ; add
the juice of the orange and lemon ; and when liked, | teaspoonful of
pounded mace, and the sugar. Put in the force-meat balls, simmer
5 minutes, and serve very hot.

Time. — 4i hours. Average cost, 3s. 6 cl. per quart, or 2s. 6 d. without
wine or force-meat balls.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

Note. — The bones of the head should be well stewed in the liquor it
was first boiled in, and will make good white stock, flavoured with
vegetables, &c.

II.

( More Economical.)

i/3- Ingredients. — A knuckle of veal weighing 5 or 6 lbs., 2 cow-
heels, 2 large onions stuck with cloves, 1 bunch of sweet herbs,
3 blades of mace, salt to taste, 12 peppercorns, 1 glass of sherry,

; 24 force-meat balls, a little lemon-juice, 4 quarts of water.

Mode— Put all the ingredients, except the force-meat balls and
lemon-juice, in an earthen jar, and stew for 6 hours. Do not open it
till cold. When wanted for use, skim off all the fat, and strain
carefully ; place it on the fire, cut up the meat into inch-aud-a-half'
squares, put it, with the force-meat balls and lemon-juice, into the
soup, and serve. It can be flavoured with a tablespoonful of anchovy,

| or Harvey’s sauce.

Tune. — 6 hours. Average cost, Is. id. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

_ } “? C-r.-Tbe (leal) of this animal is called voal, and when young, that is, under two ..
momim old, yields a large quantity of soluble extract, and is, therefore, much employed
tor soups and broths. The Essex farmers have obtained a celebrity for fattening calves
letter than any others in England, where they are plentifully supplied with milk
a thing impossible to be done in the immediate neighbourhood of London.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Marjoram. — There are several' species of this plant; but that which is preferred for
oookery is a native of Portugal, and is called meet or knotted marjoram. When its
leaves are dried, they have an agreeable aromatic flavour; and hence are used for soups,
stuffings, &c.

Basil. — This is a native of the Bast Indies, and is highly aromatic, having a perfume
greatly resembling that of cloves. It is not much employed in English cookery, but is
a favourite with French cooks, by whom its leaves are used in soups and salads.

MULLAGATAWNY SOUP.

i74- Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of curry powder, 6 onions,

1 clove of garlic, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, a little lemon -pickle, or
mango-juice, to taste ; 1 fowl or rabbit, 4 slices of lean bacon ; 2 quarts
of medium stock, or, if wanted very good, best stock.

Mode. — Slice and fry the onions of a nice colour ; line the stewpan
with the bacon ; cut up the rabbit or fowl into small joints, and
slightly brown them ; put in the fried onions, the garlic, and stock,
and simmer gently till the meat is tender ; skim very carefully, and
when the meat is done, rub the curry powder to a smooth batter ; add
it to the soup with the almonds, which must be first pounded with a
little of the stock. Put in seasoning and lemon-pickle or mango-juice
to taste, and serve boiled rice with it.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 d. per quart, with, stock Ho. 105.
Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — This soup can also be made with breast of
veal, or calf’s head. Yegetable Mullagatawny is
made with veal stock, by boiling and pulping
chopped vegetable marrow, cucumbers, onions, and
tomatoes, and seasoning with curry powder and
cayenne. Nice pieces of meat, good curry powder,
and strong stock, are necessary to make this soup
good.

fT Coriander.— This plant, which largely enters into the compor- ,

lO sition of curry powder with turmeric, originally comes from the

East ; but it has long been cultivated in England, especially in j
coriander. ESSeX, where it is reared for the use of confectioners and druggists. .1
In private gardens, it is cultivated for the sake of its tender leaves, which are highly
aromatic, and are employed in soups and salads. Its seeds are used in large quantities J
for the purposes of distillation.

A GOOD MUTTON" SOUP.

175. Ingredients. — A neck of mutton about 5 or 6 lbs., 3 carrots, j
3 turnips, 2 onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, including parslej ,
salt and pepper to taste ; a litte sherry, il liked ; 3 quarts of water.

Mode. — Lay the ingredients in a covered pan before the fire, and let
them remain there the whole day, stirring occasionally. The next day
put the whole into a stewpan, and place it on a brisk fire. W hen it j
commences to boil, take the pan oil the fire, and put it on one side to j

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.

simmer until the meat is done. When ready for use, take out the
meat, dish it up with carrots and turnips, and send it to table ; strain
the soup, let it cool, skim off all the fat, season and thicken it with a
tablespoonful, or rather more, of arrowroot ; flavourwith a little sherry,
simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.

Time. — 15 hours. Average cost, including the meat, Is. 3d. per
quart.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

The Sheep. — This animal formed tine principal riches of the patriarchs, in the days
of old, and, no doubt,, multiplied, until its species were spread over the greater part of
Western Asia ; but at what period it was introduced to Britain is not known. It is
now found in almost, every part of the globe, although, as a domestic animal, it
depends almost entirely upon man for its support. Its value, however, amp!}' repays
liim for whatever care and kindness he may be9tow upon it ; for, like the ox, there is
scarcely a part of it that he cannot convert to some useful purpose. The fleece, which
serves it for a covering, is appropriated by man, to serve the same end to himself,
whilst its skin is also applied to various purposes in civilized life. Its entrails are used
as strings for musical instruments, and its bones are calcined, and employed as tests in
the trade of the refiner. Its milk, being thicker than that of the cow, yields a greater
quantity of butter and cheese, and its flesh is among the most wholesome and nutritive
that can be eaten. Thomson has beautifully described the appearance of the sheep,
when bound to undergo the operation of being shorn of its wool.

“ Behold, where bound, and of its' robe bereft
By needy man, that all-depending lord,

How meek, how patient, the mild creature lies !

What softness in his melancholy thee,

What dumb complaining innocence appears !”

OX-CHEEK SOTJP.

176. Ingredients. — An ox-cbeek, 2 oz. of- butter, 3 or 4 slices of
ean bam or bacon, 1 parsnip, 3 carrots, 2 onions, 3 beads of celery,
3 blades of mace, 4 cloves, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 bay-leaf, a tea-
ispoonful of salt, half that of pepper, 1 bead of celery, browning,
ttbe crust of a French roll, 5 quarts of water.

Mode. — Lay the bam in the bottom of the stewpan, with the
butter ; break the bones of the cheek, wash it clean, and put it on the
bam. Cut the vegetables small, add them to the other ingredients,
and set the whole over a slow fire for 3 of an hour. Now put in the
water, and simmer gently till it is reduced to 4 quarts ; take out the
fleshy part of the cheek, and strain the soup into a clean stewpan ;
thicken with flour, put in a head of sliced celery, and simmer till
the celery is tender. If not a good colour, use a little browning.
l<Jut the meat into small square pieces, pour the soup over, and serve
with the crust of a French roll in the tureen. A glass of sherry
ianuch improves this soup. 1

Time. — 3 to 4 hours. Average cost , 8d. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 12 persons.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

The Ox. — 01' the quadrupedal animals, the flesh of those that feed upon herbs is the
most wholesome and nutritious for human food. In the early ages, the ox was u-ed as
a religious sacritiee, and, in the eyes of the Egyptians was deemed so sacred as to be
worthy of exaltation to represent Taurus, one of the twelve signs of the zodiac. To this
day, the Hindoos venerate the cow, whose flesh is forbidden to be eaten, and whose fat ,
supposed to have been employed to grease the oartridgesof the Indian army, wasone of the
proximate causes of the great Sepoy rebellion of 1857. There are no animals of greater
use to man than the tribe to which the ox belongs. There is hardly a part of them that
does not enter into some of the arts and purposes of civilized life. Of their horns are
made combs, knife-handles, boxes, spoons, and drinking-cups. They arc al-o made into
transparent plates for lanterns; an invention ascribed, in England, to King Alfred.
Glue is made from their gristles, cartilages, and portions of their hides. Their bones
often form a substitute for ivory ; their skins, when calves, arc manufactured into
vellum; their blood is the basis of Prussian blue ; their sinews furnish fine and strong
threads, used by saddlers ; their hair enters into various manufactures ; their tallow is
made into candles ; their flesh is eaten, and the utility of the milk and cream of the cow
is well known.

OX-TAIL SOUP.

i"7. Ingredients. — 2 ox-tails, 2 slices of ham, 1 oz. of butter,

2 carrots, 2 turnips, 3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of
savoury herbs, 1 hay-leaf, 12 whole peppercorns, 4 cloves, a table-
spoonful of salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 4 glass of port wine,

3 quarts of water.

Mode. — Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints ; wash them,
and put them in a stewpan, with the butter. Cut the vegetables
in slices, and add them, with the peppercorns and herbs. Put
in 4 pint of water, and stir it over a sharp fire till the juices are
drawn. Fill up the stewpan with the water, and, when boiling,
add the salt. Skim well, and simmer very gently for 4 hours, or until
the tails are tender. Take them out, skim and strain the soup,
thicken with flour, and flavour with the ketchup and port wine. Put
.hack the tails, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.

Time. — 4| hours. Average cost, Is. 3d. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

PARTRIDGE SOUP.

178. Ingredients. — 2 partridges, 3 slices of lean ham, 2 shred
-onions, 1 head of celery, 1 large carrot, and 1 turnip cut into any
fanciful shapes, 1 small lump of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, salt and
pepper to taste, 2 quarts of stock ]STo. 105, or common, No. 10G.

Mode. — Cut the partridges into pieces, and braise them jn the
butter and ham until quite tender ; then take out the legs, wings, and
breast, and set them by. Keep the hacks and other trimmings in the
braise, and add the onions and celery ; any remains of cold game
can be put in, and 3 pints of stock. Simmer slowly for 1 hour, strain
it, and skim the fat off as clean as possible ; put in the pieces that
were taken out, give it one boil, and skim again to have it quite clear.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.

and add the sugar and seasoning. Now simmer the cut carrot and
turnip in 1 pint of stock ; when quite tender, put them to the
partridges, and serve.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 2s. or Is. 6 cl. per quart.

Seasonable from September to February.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — The meat of the partridges maybe pounded with the crumb
of a French roll, and worked with the soup through a sieve. Serve
with stewed celery cut in slices, and put in the tureen.

The Paetkidge. — This is a timorous bird, being easily taken. It became known
to the Greeks and Romans, whose tables it helped to furnish with food. Formerly, the
Red was scarce in Italy, but its place was supplied by the White, which, at considerable
expense, was frequently procured from the Alps. The Athenians trained this bird for
lighting, and Severus used to lighten the cares of royalty by witnessing the spirit of
its combats. The Greeks esteemed its leg most highly, and rejected the other por-
tions as unfashionable to be eaten. The Romans, however, ventured a little further, and
ate the breast, whilst we consider the bird as wholly palatable. It is an inhabitant of all
the temperate countries of Europe, but, on account of the geniality of the climate, it
abounds most in the Ukraine.

PHEASANT SOUP.

i79- Ingredients. — 2 pheasants, | lb. of butter, 2 slices of ham,
2 large onions sliced, § head of celery, the crumb of two French
rolls, the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, salt and cayenne to taste, a
little pounded mace, if liked ; 3 quarts of stock No. 105. ,

Mode. — Cut up the pheasants, flour and braise them in the butter
and ham till they are of a nice brown, but not burnt. Put them in a
stewpan, with the onions, celery, and seasoning, and simmer for
2 hours. Strain the soup ; pound the breasts with the crumb of the
roll previously soaked, and the yolks of the eggs ; put it to the soup,
give one boil, and serve.

Time. — 2§ hours. Average cost, 2s. 10c?. per quart, or, if made with
fragments of gold game, Is.

Seasonable from October to February.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

N ote. — Fragments, pieces and bones of cold game, may be nsed to-
igreat advantage in this soup, and then 1 pheasant will suffice.

PORTABLE SOUP.

180. Ingredients— 2 knuckles of veal, 3 shins of beef, 1 large
faggot of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots,

blades of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to
:over all the ingredients.

Mode. Take the marrow from the bones; put all the ingredients
n a stock-pot, and simmer slowly for 12 hours, or more, if tho
meat be not done to rags ; strain it off, and put it in a very cool place;

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

take off all the fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow pan, by setting it
over a sharp lire, but be particular that it does not burn ; boil it fast
and uncovered for 8 hours, and keep it stirred. Put it into a deep
dish, and set it by for a day. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water,
place the dish in it, and keep it boiling ; stir occasionally, and when
the soup is thick and ropy, it is done. Form it into little cakes by
pouring a small quantity on to the bottom of cups or basins ; when
cold, turn thorn out on a flannel to dry. Keep them from the air in
tin canisters.

Average cost of this quantity, 16s.

Note.-- Soup can be made in 5 minutes with this, by dissolving a
small piece, about the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water, and
simmering for 2 minutes. Vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian
pastes, may be added.

The Laurel, or Bay. — The leaves of this tree frequently enter into the recipes of
cookery ; but they ought not to be used without the greatest caution, and not at all,
unless the cook is perfectly aware of their effects. It ought to be known, that there are
two kinds of bay-trees, — the Classic laurel, whose leaves are comparatively harmless,
and the Cherry-laurel, which is the one whose leaves are employed in cookery. They
have a kernel-like flavour, and are used in blanc-mange, puddings, custards, &c. ; but,
when acted upon by water, they develop prussic acid, and, therefore, but a small
number of the leaves should be used at*h time.

BABBIT SOUP.

181. Ingredients. — 2 large rabbits, or 3 small ones; a faggot of
savoury herbs, I head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace,
salt and white pepper to taste, a little pounded mace, 1 pint of cream,
the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, the crumb of a French roll, nearly
3 quarts of water.

Mode. — Make the soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit,
and keep the nice pieces for a dish or entree. Put them into warm
water, and draw the blood ; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan,
with a faggot of herbs, and a teacupful, or rather more, of veal stock
or water. Simmer slowly till done through, and add the 3 quarts
of water, and boil for an hour. Take out the rabbit, pick the meat
from the bones, covering it up to keep it white ; put the bones back
in the liquor, add the vegetables, and simmer for 2 hours ; skim and
strain, and let it cool. Now pound the meat in a mortar, with the
yolks of the eggs, and the crumb of the roll previously soaked ; rub it
through a tammy, and gradually add it to the strained liquor, and sim-
mer for 15 minutos. Mix arrowroot or rice-flour with the cream (say
2 dessert-spoonfuls), and stir in the soup ; bring it to a boil, and serve.
This soup must bo very white, and instead of thickening it with
arroM'root or rice-flour, vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled in
a little stock, and put in 5 minutes before serving.

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.

Time. — Nearly 4 hours. Average cost, Is. per quart.

Seasonable from September to March.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

EEGENCY SOUP.

i8-2. Ingredients. — -Any bones and remains of any cold game, such
as of pheasants, partridges, &c. ; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, 1 head of
celery, 1 turnip, \ lb. of pearl barley, the yolks of 3 eggs boiled hard,
j pint of cream, salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock Ho. 105, or com-
mon stock, No. 106.

Mode. — Place dhe hones or remains of game in the stowpan, with
the vegetables sliced ; pour over the stock, and simmer for 2 hours ;
skim off all the fat, and strain it. W ash the barley, and boil it in
2 or 3 waters before putting it to the soup ; finish simmering in the
soup, and when the barley is done, take out half, and poimd the other
half with the yolks of the eggs. When you have finished pounding,
rub it through a clean tammy, add the cream, and salt if necessary ;
^ive one boil, and serve very hot, putting in the barley that was taken
ut first.

Time— 2% hours. Average cost, Is. per quart, if made with medium
tock, or Qd. per quart, with common stock.

Seasonable from September to March.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

SOUP A LA HEINE.

I 183. Ingredients. — 1 large fowl, 1 oz. of sweet almonds, the crumb
I bf 1§ French roll, h pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 small lump of sugar,
|: quarts of good white veal stock, No. 107.

Mode— Bpil the fowl gently in the stock till quite tender, which
kill be in about an hour, or rather more ; take out the fowl, pull the
I neat from the bones, and put it into a mortar with the almonds, and
| ound very fine. When beaten enough, put the meat back in the
tock, with the crumb of the rolls, and let it simmer for an hour ; rub
; through a tammy, add the sugar, \ pint of cream that has boiled,
nd, if you prefer, cut the crust of the roll into small round pieces,
nd pour the soup over it, when you serve.
lime. 2 hours, or rather more. Average cost, 2s. 7 dt per quart.
Seasonable- all the year.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

.We.— All white soups should bo warmed in a vessel placed in
bother ot boiling water. {See Bain Marie, No. 87.)

MODERN HOrSEEIOI.D COOKERY.

IT.

( Economical .)

184. Ingredients. — Any remains of roast cliickens, 5 teacupful of
rice, salt and pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106.

Mode. — Take all the white meat and pound it with the rice, which
has been slightly cooked, but not much. When it is all well pounded,
dilute with the stock, and pass through a sieve. This soup should
neither be too clear nor too thick.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, id. per quart.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Note. — If stock is not at hand, put the chicken-bone's in water,
with an onion, carrot, a few sweet herbs, a blade of mace, pepper and
salt, and stew for 3 hours.

STEW SOUP OP SALT MEAT.

185. Ingredients.— Any pieces of salt beef or pork, say 2 lbs.;
4 carrots, 4 parsnips, 4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 ox. of oatmeal
or ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Cut up the meat small, add the water, and let it simmer for
2f hours. Now add the vegetables, cut in thin small slices ; season,
and boil for 1 hour. Thicken with the oatmeal, and serve.

Time. — Nearly 2 hours. Average cost, 2d. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

Note. — If rice is used instead of oatmeal, put it in with the
vegetables.

STEW SOUP.

a 86. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of beef, 5 onions, 5 turnips, f lb. of rice,
a large bunch of parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and salt, 2 quarts
of water.

Mode. — Cut the beef up in small pieces, add the other ingredients,
and boil gently for 2A hours. Oatmeal or potatoes would be a great
improvement.

Time. — 2h hours. Average cost, iffi. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

ir.

187. Ingredients. — 5 lb. of beef, mutton, or pork; I pint of split

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.

peas, 4 turnips, S potatoes, 2 onions, 2 oz. of oatmeal or 3 oz. of
rice, 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Cut the meat in small pieces, as also the vegetables, and
add them, with the peas, to the water. Boil gently for 3 hours ;
thicken with the oatmeal, boil for another \ hour, stirring all the
time, and season with pepper and salt.

Time. — 3.| hours. Average cost , 4 d. per quart.

Seasonable in winter.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — This soup may bo made of the liquor in which tripe has been boiled,
by adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, &c.

TURKEY' SOUP (a Seasonable Dish at Christmas).

! 188. Ingredients. — 2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, the remains

of a cold roast turkey, 2 oz. of rice-flour or arrowroot, salt and pepper
to taste, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey’s sauce or mushroom ketchup.

Mode. — Cut up the turkey in small pieces, and put it in the stock ;
let it simmer slowly until the bones are quite clean. Take the bones
out, and work the soup through a sieve ; when cool, skim well. Mix
tthe rice-flour or arrowroot to a batter with a little of the soup ; add it
nvith the seasoning and sauce, or ketchup. Give one boil, and serve.

Time.— 4 hours. Average cost, 10(7. per quart.

* Seasonable at Christmas,
i Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — Instead of thickening this soup, vermicelli or macaroni may be
served in it.

The Turkey. — The common turkey- is a native of North America, and was thence
introduced to England, in the reign of Henry VIII. According to Tusser’s “ Five
lundred Points of Good Husbandry,” about the year 1585 it began to form a dish at
»ur rural Christmas feasts.

“ Beef, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,

Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well dress’d.

Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear,

As then in the country is counted good cheer.”

•t is one of the most difficult birds to rear, of any that we have ; yet, in its wild state, is
bund in great abundance in the forests of Canada, where, it might have been imagined
bat the severity of the climate would be unfavourable to its ever becoming plentiful,
hey are very fond of the seeds of nettles, and the seeds of the foxglove poison
uem.

TURTLE SOUP (founded on M. Ude’s Recipe).

189. Ingredients. — A turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles of veal,
large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green onions, I
snion, 6 cloves, 4 blades of mace, £ lb. of fresh butter, 1 bottle of
llladeira, 1 lump of sugar. For the Quenelles d Tortue, 1 lb. of veal,

I lb. of bread crumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped
Iktrsley, the juice of 2 lemons,

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — To make this soup with less difficulty, cut off the head of the
turtle the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle by leaning
heavily with a knife on the shell of the animal’s back, whilst you cut
this off all round. Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c.
may run out, when the flesh should he cut off along the spine, with the
knife sloping towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, which
sometimes might escape the eye. When all the flesh about the
members is obtained, wash these clean, and let them drain. Have
ready, on the lire, a large vessel full of boiling water, into which put
the shells ; and when you perceive that they come easily off, take them
out of the water, and prick them all, with those of the back, belly,
fins, head, &c. Boil the back and belly till the bones can be taken off,
without, however, allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as
they will be boiled again in the soup. When these latter come off
easily, lay them on earthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick
together, and put them to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have
blanched the softer parts, and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as
this liquor must be used to moisten all the sauces.

All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be
drawn down in the following manner : — Lay the slices of ham on the
bottom of a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal,
according to the size of the turtle ; then the inside flesh of the turtle,
and over the whole the members. Now moisten with the water in
which you are boiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly. It
may now be ascertained if it be thoroughly done by thrusting a
knife into the fleshy part of the meat. If no blood appears, it is time
to moisten it again with the liquor in which the bones, &c. have been
boiling. Put in a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in
the cooking of a turtle, — sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme,
winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of
parsley and green onions, and a large onion stuck with 6 cloves.
Let the whole be thoroughly done. With respect to the members,
probe them, to see whether they are done, and if so, drain and send
them to the larder, as they are to make their appearance only when
the soup is absolutely completed. \Vhen the flesh is also completely
done, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a very thin white roux ;
for turtle soup must not be much thickened. When the flour is
sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a good colour, moisten it
with the liquor, keeping it over the fire till it boils. Ascertain that
the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin ; then draw the stewpan
on the side of the stove, to skim off the white scum, and all the fat
and oil that rise to the surface of the sauce. By this time all the
softer parts will be sufficiently cold j when they must be cut to about

MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME SOUPS.

the size of one or two inches square, and thrown into the soup, which
must now be left to simmer gently. When done, skim off all the fat
and froth. Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock,— sweet
basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 hay-
leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and
a large onion cut in four pieces, with a few blades of mace.
Put these in a stewpan, with, about \ lb. of fresh butter, and let
it simmer on a slow tire till quite melted, when pour in 1 bottle of
good Madeira, adding a small bit of sugar, and let it boil gently
for 1 hour. 'When done, rub it through a tammy, and add it to
the soup. Let this boil, till no white scum rises ; then take with a
skimmer all the bits of turtle out of the sauce, and put them in a
clean stewpan : when you have all out, pour the soup over the bits
of turtle, through a tammy, and proceed as follows : —

Quenelles a Toutue. — Make some quenelles a tortue, which being
substitutes for eggs, do not require to be very delicate. Take out
the fleshy part of a leg of veal, about 1 lb., scrape off all the meat,
without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same
quantity of crumbs of bread.. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze
it, and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small quantity of calf’s
udder, a little butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, boiled hard, a little cayenne
pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine ; then thicken
the mixture with 2 whole eggs, and the yolk of another. Next try
this farce or stuffing in boiling-hot water, to ascertain its consist-
ency : if it is too thin, add the yolk of an egg. When the farce is
perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley.
Let the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an
egg; poach it in salt and boiling water, and when very hard, drain
on a sieve, and put it into the turtle. Before you send up, squeeze
the juice of 2 or 3 lemons, with a little cayenne pepper, and pour tha
into the soup. The fins may be served as a plat cl’ entree with a little
turtle sauce ; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle
au lain marie, and serve the members entire, with a matelote sauce,
garnished with mushrooms, cocks’ combs, quenelles, &c. When either
lemon -juice or cayenne pepper has been introduced, no boiling must
take place.

Note. — It is necessary to observe, that tho turtle prepared a day before it is
used, is generally preferable, tho flavour being more uniform. Bo particular,
when you dress a very largo turtlo, to preserve tho green fat (bo cautious not
to study a very brown colour, — tho natural green of the fish is preferred by
every epicure and truo connoisseur) in a separate stewpan, and likewiso when
the turtle is entirely dono, to have as many tureens as you meau to serve each

n 2

100

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

time. You cannot put tho whole in a largo vessel, for many reasons : first, it
will be long in cooling ; secondly, when you take some out, it will break all
the rest into rags. If you warm in a lain marie, the turtle will always retain
the same taste ; but if you boil it often, it becomes strong, and loses the
delicacy of its flavour.

The Cost or Turtle Soup. — This is the most expensive soup brought to
table. It is sold by the quart, — one guinea being the standard price for that
quantity. The price of live turtle ranges from 8 d. to 2s. per lb., according to
supply and demand. When live turtle is deal-, many cooks use the tinned
turtle, which is killed when caught, and preserved by being put in hermetically-
sealed canisters, and so sent over to England. The cost of a tin, containing
2 quarts, or 4 lbs., is about £2, and for a small one, containing the green fat,
7s. 6e2. From these about 6 quarts of good soup may be made.

The Green Turtle. — This reptile is found in large numbers on the coasts of all the
islands aud continents within the tropics, in both the old and new worlds. Their length
is often five feet and upwards, and they range in weight from 50 to 500 or 600 lbs. As
turtles fiud a constant supply of food on the coasts which they
frequent, they are not of a quarrelsome disposition, as the
submarine meadows in which they pasture, yield plenty for
them all. Like other species of amphibia, too, they have the
power of living many months without food; so that they live
harmlessly and peaceably together, notwithstanding that they
seem to have no common bond of association, but merely
assemble in the same places as if entirely by accident. England
is mostly supplied with "them from the West Indies, whence
they are brought alive and in tolerable health. The green
turtle is highly prized on account of the delicious quality of its flesh, the fat of the upper
and lower shields of the animal being esteemed the richest and most delicate parts. The
soup, however, is apt to disagree with weak stomachs. As an article of luxury, the
turtle has only come into fashion within the last 100 years, and some hundreds of tureens
of turtle soup are served annually at the lord mayor’s dinner in Guildhall.

A GOOD FAMILY SOUP.

190. Ingredients. — Remains of a cold tongue, 2 lbs. of sbin of beef,
any cold pieces of meat or beef-bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 onions,
1 parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 quarts of water, teacupful of rice ; salt
and pepper to taste.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, and simmer gently
for 4 hours, or until all the goodness is drawn from the meat. Strain
off the soup, and let it stand to get cold. The kernels and soft parts
of the tongue must be saved. When the soup is wanted for use, skim
off all the fat, put in the kernels and soft parts of the tongue, slice in
a small quantity of fresh carrot, turnip,, and onion ; stew till the
vegetables are tender, and serve with toasted bread.

Time— 5 hours. Average cost, 3 d. per quart.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 12 persons.

FISH sours.

101

HODGE-PODGE.

lgi. Ingeedients.— 2 lbs. of shin of beef, 3 quarts of water, 1 pint
of table-beer, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery ; pepper
and salt to taste ; thickening of butter and flour.

Mode. — Put the meat, beer, and water in a stewpan ; simmer for a
few minutes, and skim carefully. Add the vegetables and seasoning ;
stew gently till the meat is tender. Thicken with the butter and
flour, and serve with turnips and carrots, or spinach and celery.

Time. — 3 hours, or rather more. Average cost, 3d. per quart.

Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 12 persons.

Table Beer.- — This is nothing more than a weak ale, and is not made so much with a
view to strength, as to transparency of colour and an agreeable bitterness of taste. It is,
or ought to be, manufactured by the London professional brewers, from the best pale
malt, or amber and malt. Six barrels are usually drawn from one quarter of malt, with
which are mixed 4 or 5 lbs. of hops. As a beverage, it is agreeable when fresh; but it
is not adapted to keep long.

FISH SOUPS,

PISH STOCK.

192. Ingeedients.— 2 lbs. of beef or veal (these can be omitted),
any kind of white fish trimmings, of fish which are to be dressed for
table, 2 onions, the rind of i a lemon, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 car-
rots, 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Cut up the fish, and put it, with the other ingredients, into
the water. Simmer for 2 hours ; skim the liquor carefully, and strain
it. When a richer stock is wanted, fry the vegetables and fish before
adding the water.

Time.— 2 hours. Average cost, with meat, lOd. per quart ; with-
out, 3d.

N ote.—Do not make fish stock long before it is wanted, as it soon turns sour.

CBAYEISH SOUP.

193. Ingeedients.— 50 crayfish, 1 lb. of butter, 6 anchovies, the
crumb of 1 French roll, a little lobster-spawn, seasoning to taste,
2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, or fish stock, No. 192.

Mode. — Shell the crayfish, and put the fish between two plates until
they arc wanted ; pound the shells in a mortar, with the butter and
anchovies ; when well beaten, add a pint of stock, and simmer for f of
an hour. Strain it through a hair sieve, put the remainder of the

102

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

stock to it, with the crumb of the rolls ; give it one boil, and rub it

through a tammy, with the lobster-spawn. Put
in the fish, but do not let the soup boil, after it
has been rubbed through the tammy. If neces-
sary, add seasoning.

Time. — U hour. Average cost , 2s. 3d. or Is. 9 d.
per quart.

Seasonable from January to July.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

The Ciuvrrsir.— This is one of those fishes that were
CEAYEisn. highly esteemed by the ancients. The Greeks preferred it

when brought from Alexandria, and the Romans ate it boiled
with cumin, and seasoned with pepper and other condiments. A recipe tells us, that
crayfish can be preserved several days in baskets with fresh grass, such as the nettle, or
in a bucket with about three-eighths of an inch of water. More water would kill them,
because the large quantity of air they require necessitates the water in which they are
kept, to be continually renewed.

EEL SOUP.

194. Ingredients.— 3 lbs. of eels, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, 3 blades
of mace, 1 bunch of sweet herbs, i oz. of peppercorns, salt to taste,

2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 pint of cream, 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Wash the eels, cut them into thin slices, and put them in
thestewpan with the butter ; let them simmer for a few minutes, then
pour the water to them, and add the onion, cut in thin slices, the herbs,
mace, and seasoning. Simmer till the eels are tender, but do not
break the fish. Take them out carefully, mix the flour smoothly to a
batter with the cream, bring it to a boil, pour over the eels, and
serve.

Time. — 1 hour, or rather more. Average cost, lOd. per quart.

Seasonable from June to March.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — This soup may be flavoured differently by omitting the cream, and ■
adding a little ketchup or Harvey’s sauce.

LOBSTER SOUP.

195. Ingredients.— 3 large lobsters, or 6 small ones; the crumb of
a Trench roll, 2 anchovies, 1 onion, 1 small bunch of sweet herbs,

1 strip of lemon-peel, 2 oz. of butter, a little nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, 1 pint of cream, 1 pint of milk ; forcemeat balls, mace, salt and
pepper to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg, 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Pick the meat from the lobsters, and beat the fins, chine,
and small claws in a mortar, previously taking away the brown fin
and the bag in the head. Put it in a stewpan, with the crumb of the

FISH sours.

103

roll, anchovies, onions, herbs, lemon-peel, and the ■water ; simmer
gently till all the goodness is extracted, and strain it off. Pound the
spawn in a mortar, with the butter, nutmeg, and flour, and mix with
it the cream and milk. Give one boil up, at the same time adding the
tails cut in pieces. Make the forcemeat balls with the remainder of
the lobster, seasoned with mace, pepper, and salt, adding a little
flour, and a few bread crumbs ; moisten them with the egg, heat them
in the soup, and serve.

Time. — 2 hours, or rather more. Average cost, 3s. 6 cl. per quart.

Seasonable from April to October.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

196. Ingredients. — 6 dozen of oysters, 2 quarts of white stock,
•i pint of cream, 2 oz. of butter, if oz. of flour ; salt, cayenne, and
mace to taste.

Mode— Scald the oysters in their own liquor ; take them out, beard
them, and put them in a tureen. Take a pint of the stock, put in
I the beards and the liquor, which must be carefully strained, and
j simmer for f an hour. Take it off the fire, strain it again, and add
\ the remainder of the stock with the seasoning and mace. Bring it to
k a boil, add the thickening of butter and flour, simmer for 5 minutes,
h stir in the boiling cream, pour it over the oysters, and serve.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, 2s. 8 d. per quart.

Seasonable from September to April.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — This soup can be made less rich by using. milk instead of cream, and
| thickening with arrowroot instead of butter and flour.

II*

197. Ingredients. — -2 quarts of good mutton broth, 6 dozen oysters,
It 2 oz. butter, 1 oz. of flour..

Mode— Beard the oysters, and scald them in their own liquor ; then
I add it, well strained, to the broth ; thicken with the butter and flour,
\ and simmer for f of an hour. Put in the oysters, stir well, but do not
■ let it boil, and serve very hot.

Time. — f hour. Average cost, 2s. per quart.

Seasonable from September to April.

Sufficient for 8 persons

Season op Oysters. —From April and May to the end of July, oysters are said to be
sick; but by the end of August they become healthy, haying recovered from the effects

OYSTER SOUP.

104

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

of spawning. When they are not in season, the males have a black, and the females
a milky substance in the gill. From some lines of Oppinn, it would appear that the
ancients were ignorant that the oycter is generally found adhering to rocks. The star-
fish is one of the most deadly enemies of these bivalves. The poet says : —

The prickly star creeps on with full deceit
To force the ovster I'rom his close retreat.

When gaping lids their widen’d void display,

The watchful star thrusts in a pointed ray.

Of all its treasures spoils the rilled case,

And empty shells the sandy hillock grace.

PBAWN SOUP.

198. Ingeedients.— 2 quarts of fish stock or water, 2 pints of
prawns, the crumbs of a French roll, anchovy sauce or mushroom
ketchup to taste, l blade of mace, £ pint of vinegar, a little lemon-
juice.

Mode. — Pick out the tails of the prawns, put the bodies in a stew-
pan with 1 blade of mace, l pint of vinegar, and the same quantity of
water ; stew them for \ hour, and strain off the liquor. Put the fish
stock or water into a stewpan ; add the strained liquor, pound the
prawns with the crumb of a roll moistened with a little of the soup,
rub them through a tammy, and mix them by degrees with the soup ;
add ketchup or anchovy sauce to taste, with a little lemon-juice.
When it is well cooked, put in a few picked prawns ; let them get
thoroughly hot, and serve. If not thick enough, put in a little butter
and flour.

Time. — hour. Average cost, Is. 1(7. per quart, if made with water.

Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 8 persons.

Note. — This can be thickened with tomatoes,
and vermicelli served in it, which makes it a
very tasteful soup.

The Prawna — This little fish bears a striking re-
semblance to the shrimp, but is neither so common
nor so small. It is to be found on most of the sandy
shores of Europe. The Isle of Wipht is famous
for shrimps, where they are potted ; but both the
prawns and the shrimps vended in London, are too
much salted for the excellence of their natural
flavour to be preserved. They are extremely lively little animals, as seen in their
native retreats.

105

FISH.

CHAPTER VII.

THE NATURAL HISTORY OP PISHES.

199. In Natural History, Fishes form tho fourth class in the system of
Linnaeus, and are described as having long under-jaws, eggs without white,
organs of sense, fins for supporters, bodies covered with concave scales, gills
to supply the place of lungs for respiration, and water for the natural element
of their existence. Had mankind no other knowledge of animals than of such
as inhabit the laud and breathe their own atmosphere, they would listen with
incredulous wonder, if told that there were other kinds of beings which existed
only in the waters, and which would die almost as soon as they were taken
from them. However strongly these facts might be attested, they would
hardly believe them, without the operation of then- own senses, as they would
recollect the effect produced on their own bodies when immersed in water, and
the impossibility of their sustaining life in it for any lengthened period oi
time. Experience, however, has taught them, that the “great deep” is
crowded with inhabitants of various sizes, and of vastly different constructions,
with modes of life entirely distiuct from those which belong to the animals of
the land, and with peculiarities of design, oqually wondei-ful with those of any
other works which have como from tho hand of the Creator. The history oi
these races, however, must remain for ever, more or less, in a state of darkness,
sinco the depths in which they live, are beyond the power of human exploration,
and since tho illimitable expansion of their domain places them almost entirely
out of tho roach of human accessibility.

10G

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

200. In Studying the Conformation of Fishes, wo naturally conclude
that tlioy are, in overy respect, well adapted to the element in which they
havo their existence. Their shape has a striking resemblance to the lower
part of a ship ; and there is no doubt that the form of the fish originally
suggested the form of the ship. The body is in general slender, gradually
diminishing towards each of its extremities, and flattened on each of its sides.
This is precisely the form of the lower part of the hull of a ship ; and it enables
both the animal and the vessel, with comparative ease, to penetrate and divide
the resisting medium for which they have been adapted. The velocity of a
ship, however, in sailing before the wind, is by no means to be compared
to that of a fish. It is well known that the largest fishes will, with the
greatest ease, overtake a ship in full sail, play round it without effort, and
shoot ahead of it at pleasure. This arises from their great flexibility, which,
to compete with mocks the labours of art, and enables them to migrate
thousands of miles in a season, without the slightest indications of languor or
fatigue.

201. The principal Instruments employed by Fishes to accelerate
their motion, are their air-bladder, fins, and tail. By means of the air-bladder
they enlarge or diminish the specific gravity of their bodies. When they wish to
sink, they compress the muscles of the abdomen, and eject the air contained in
it ; by which, their weight, compared with that of the water, is increased, and
they consequently descend. On the other hand, when the}' wish to rise, they
relax the compression of the abdominal muscles, when the air-bladder fills and
distends, and the body immediately ascends to the surface. How simply, yet
how wonderfully, has the Supreme Being adapted certain means to the attain-
ment of certain ends ! Those fishes which are destitute of the air-bladder are
heavy in the water, and have no great “ alacrity” in rising. The larger pro-
portion of them remain at tho bottom, unless they are so formed as to be able
to strike their native element downwards with sufficient force to enable them
to ascend. When the air-bladder of a fish is burst, its power of ascending to
the surface has for ever passed away. From a knowledge of this fact, the
fishermen of cod are enabled to preserve them alive for a considerable time in
their well-boats. The means they adopt to accomplish this, is to perforate the
sound, or air-bladder, with a needle, which disengages the air, when the fishes
immediately descend to the bottom of the well, into which they are thrown.
Without this operation, it would be impossible to keep the cod under water
whilst they had life. In swimming, tho fins enable fishes to preserve their
upright position, especially those of the belly, which act like two feet.
Without those, they would swim with their bellies upward, as it is in their
backs that tho centre of gravity lies. In asconding and descending, theso
are likowise of great assistance, as they contraot and expand accordingly. Tho
tail is an instrument of great muscular forco, and largely assists tho fish in all
its motions. In some instances it acts like tho rudder of a ship, and ouablos it
to turn sideways ; and when moved from side to sido with a quick vibratory
motion, fishes are made, in the samo manner as tho ‘'screw” propeller makes

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF FISHES.

107

a steamship, to dart forward with a celerity proportioned to the muscular force
with which it is employed.

202. The Bodies of Fishes are mostly covered with a kind of horny scales ;
but some are almost entirely without them, or have them so minute as to be
almost invisible ; as is the case with the eel. The object of these is to preserve
them from injury by the pressure of the water, or the sudden contact with
pebbles, rocks, or soa-weeds. Others, again, are enveloped in a fatty, olea-
ginous substance, also intended as a defence against the friction of the water ;
and those in which tho scales are small, are supplied with a larger quantity
of slimy matter.

203. The Respiration of Fishes is effected by means of those comb-like
organs which are placed on each side of the neck, and which are called gills.
It is curious to watch the process of breathing as it is performed by the finny
tribes. It seems to be so continuous, that it might almost pass for an illustra-
tion of the vexed problem which conceals the secret of perpetual motion. In
performing it, they fill their mouths with water, which they drive backwards
with a force so great as to open the largo (lap, to allow it to escape behind. In
this operation all, or a great portion, of the air contained in the water, is left
among the ieather-like processes of the gills, and is carried into the body,
there to perform its part in the animal economy. In proof of this, it has been
ascertained that, if the water in which fishes are put, is, by any means, denuded
of its air, they immediately seek the surface, and begin to gasp for it. Hence,
distilled water is to them what a vacuum made by an air-pump, is to most other
animals. For this reason, when a fishpond, or other aqueous reeeptaelo in
which fishes are kept, is entirely frozen over, it is necessary to make holes in
the ice, not so especially for the purpose of feeding them, as for that of giving
them air to breathe.

204. The Positions of the Teeth of Fishes are well calculated to
excite our amazement ; for, in some cases, these are situated in the jaws, some-
times on the tongue or palate, and sometimes even in the throat. They are
in general sharp-pointed and immovable ; but in the carp they are obtuse, and
in tho pike so easily moved as to seem to have no deeper hold than such as the
more skin can afford. In the herring, the tongue is set with teeth, to enable it
the better, it is supposed, to retain its food.

205. Although Naturalists have divided Fishes into two great tribes-,
the osseous and tho cartilaginous, yet tho distinction is not very preciso ; for the
first have a great deal of cartilage, and the second, at any rate, a portion of
calcareous matter in their bones. It may, therefore, be said that tho bones of
fishes form a kind of intermediate substance between true bones and cartilages.
Tho backbone extends through tho whole length of the body, and consists of
vertebra, strong and thick towards the head, but weaker and more slender as
it approaches the tail. Each species has a determinate number of vertebra.

108

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

which are increased in sizo in proportion with tho body. The ribs are attached
so the processes of the vertebra!, and incloso tho breast and abdomen. Some
kinds, ns tho rays, have no ribs ; whilst others, as the sturgeon and eel, have
rery short ones. Between tho pointed processes of the vertebra: are situated
tho bones which support the dorsal (back) and tho anal (below the tail) fins,
which are connected with the processes by a ligament. At tho breast are the
sternum or breastbone, clavicles or collar-bones, and tho scapula; or shoulder-
blades, on which the pectoral or breast fins are placed. The bones which
support the ventral or belly fins are called the ossa pelvis. Besides these prin-
cipal bones, there are often other smaller ones, placed between che muscies to
assist their motion.

-20C. Some op the Organs of Sense in Fishes are supposed to be
possessed by them in a high degree, and others much more imperfectly. Of
the latter kind are the senses of touch and taste, which are believed to be very
slightly developed. On the other hand, those of hearing, seeing, and smelling,
are ascertained to be acute, but the first in a lesser degree than both the
second and third. Their possession of an auditory organ was long doubted, and
even denied by some physiologists ; but it has been found placed on the sides
of the skull, or in the cavity which contains the brain. It occupies a position
entirely distinct and detached from the skull, and, in this respect, differs in tho
local disposition of the same sense in birds and quadrupeds. In some fishes,
as in those of the l'ay kind, the organ is wholly encompassed by those parts
which contain the cavity of the skull ; whilst in the cod and salmon kind it is
in the part within the skull. Its structure is, in every way, much more simple
than that of the same sense in those animals which live entirely in the air ;
but there is no doubt that they have the adaptation suitable to their condition.
In some genera, as in the rays, the external orifice or ear is very small, and is
placed in the upper surface of the head ; whilst in others there is no visible ex-
ternal orifice whatever. However perfect tho sight of fishes may be, experience
has shown that this sense is of much less use to them than that of smelling, in
searching for their food. The optic nerves in fishes have this peculiarity, — that
they are not confounded with ono another in their middle progress between
their origin and their orbit. The one passes over tho other without any com-
munication ; so that the nerve which comes from the left side of the brain goes
distinctly to the right eye, and that which comes from the right goes distinctly
to the left. In the greater part of them, the eye is covered with tho same
transparent skin that covers the rest of the lioad. The object of this arrange-
ment, perhaps, is to defend it from the action 'of the water, as there arc no
eyelids. Tho globe in front is somewhat depressed, and is furnished behind
with a muscle, which serves to lengthen or flatten it, according to tho necessi-
ties of the animal. The crystalline humour, which in quadrupeds is flattened,
is, in fishes, nearly globular. The organ of smelling in fishes is large, and is
endued, at its entry, with a dilating and contracting power, which is employed
as the wants of the animal may require. It is. mostly by the acuteness of their
smell that fishes aro onablod to discover their lood ; for tlicir tongue is not

THE NATURAL HISTORY OP FISHES.

100

designed for nice sensation, being of too firm a cartilaginous substance fbt
this purpose.

207. With respect to the Food of Fishes, this is almost universally
found in their own element. They are mostly carnivorous, though they seize
upon almost anything that comes in their way : they even devour their own
offspring, and manifest a particular predilection for all living creatures.
Those, to which Nature has meted out mouths of the greatest capacity, would
seem to pursue everything with life, and frequently engage in fierce conflicts
with their prey. The animal with the largest mouth is usually the victor ;
and he has no sooner conquered his foe than he devours him. Innumerable
shoals of one species pursue those of another, with a ferocity which draws them
from the pole to the equator, through all the varying temperatures and depths
of their boundless domain. In these pursuits a scene of universal violence is
the result ; and many species must have become extinct, had not Nature
accurately proportioned the means of escape, the production, and the numbers,
to the extent and variety of the danger to which they are exposed. Hence the
smaller species are not only more numerous, but more productive than the
larger ; whilst their instinct leads them in search of food and safety near the
shores, where, from the shallowness of the waters, many of their foes are
unable to follow them.

208. The Fecundity of Fishes has been the wonder of every natural
philosopher whose attention has been attracted to the subject. They are iu
general oviparous, or egg-producing ; but there are a few, such as the eel and
the blenny, which are viviparous, or produce their young alive. The males,
have the milt and the females the roe; but some individuals, as the sturgeon
and the cod tribes, are said to contain both. The greater number deposit
their spawn in the sand or gravel ; but some of those which dwell in the depths
of the ocean attach their eggs to sea-weeds. In every instance, however, their
fruitlulness far surpasses that of any other race of animals. According to
Lewenhoeck, the cod annually spawns upwards of nine millions of eggs, con-
tained in a single roe. The flounder produces one million ; the mackerel above
five hundred thousand ; a herring of a moderate size at least ten thousand ; a
carp fourteen inches in length, according to Petit, contained two hundred and
sixty-two thousand two hundred and twenty-four ; a perch deposited threa
hundred and eighty thousand six hundred and forty ; and a female sturgeon
seven millions six hundred and fifty-three thousand two hundred. The
viviparous species are by no means so prolific ; yet the blenny brings forth two
01 thiee hundred at a time, which commence sporting together round their
parent the moment they have come into existence.

209. In reference to the Longevity of Fishes, it is affirmed to surpass
that of all other created beings ; and it is supposed they are, to a great extent,
exempted from tho diseases to which the flesh of other animals is heir. In
placo of suffering from the rigidity of age, which is the causo of the natural

110

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

decay of those that “ live and move and have their being” on the land, their
bodies continue to grow with each succeeding supply of food, and the conduits
of life to perform their functions unimpaired. The ago of fishes has not been
properly ascertained, although it is believed that the most minute of the
species has a longer leaso of life than man. The mode in which they die has
been noted by the Rev. Mr. White, the eminent naturalist of Selbourno. As
soon as the fish sickens, the head sinks lower and lower, till the animal, as it
were, stands upon it. After this, as it becomes weaker, it loses its poise, till
the tail turns over, when it comes to the surface, and floats with its belly
upwards. The reason for its floating in this mannor is on account of the body
being no longer balanced by the fins of the belly, and the broad muscular back
preponderating, by its own gravity, over the belly, from this latter being a
cavity, and consequently lighter.

210. Fishes are either Solitary or Gregarious, and some of them
migrate to great distances, and into certain rivers, to deposit their spawn. Of
sea-fishes, the cod, herring, mackerel, and many others, assemble in immense
shoals, and migrate through different tracts of the ocean ; but, whether con-
sidered in their solitary or gregarious capacity, they are alike wonderful to
all who look through Nature up to Nature’s God, and consider, with due
humility, yet exalted admiration, the sublime variety, beauty, power, and
grandeur of Iiis productions, as manifested in the Creation.

FISH AS AN ARTICLE OF HITMAN FOOD.

21 r. As the Nutritive Properties of Fish are doemed inferior to those
of what is called butchers’ meat, it would appear, from all we can learn, that,
in all ages, it has held only a secondary place in the estimation of those who
have considered the science of gastronomy as a large element in the happiness
of mankind. Among the Jews of old it was very little used, although it seems
not to have been entirely interdicted, as Moses prohibited only the use of such
as had neither scales nor fins. The Egyptians, however, made fish an article
of diet, notwithstanding that it was rejected by their priests. Egypt, however,
is not a country favourable to the production of fish, although wo read of the
people, when hungry, eating it raw ; of epicures among them having dried it
in the sun ; and of its being salted and preserved, to serve as a repast on days
of great solemnity.

The modern Egyptians are, in genera], extremely temperate in regard to food.
Even tho richest among them take little jiride, and, perhaps, experience as little
delight, in the luxuries of the table. Their dishes mostly consist of pilaus, soups, and
stews, prepared principally of onions, encumbers, and other cold vegetables, mixed
with a little meat out into small pieces. On special occasions, however, a whole sheep
is placed on the festive board; but during several of tho hottest months of the year, tho
richest restrict themselves entirely to a vegetable diet. The poor nre contented with a
little oil or sour milk, in which they may dip their bread.

212. Passing from Africa to Europe, wo come amongst a people who

FISH AS AN ARTICLE OF HUMAN FOOD.

Ill

have, almost from time immemorial, occupied a high placo in the estimation of
every civilized country ; yet the Greeks, in their earlier ages, made very little
use of fish as an article of diet. In the eyes of the heroes of Homer it had
little favour ; for Menelaus complained that “hunger pressed their digestive
organs,” and tlioy had been obliged to live upon fish. Subsequently, however,
fish became one of the principal articles of diet amongst the Hellenes ; and
both Aristophanes and Athenaeus allude to it, and even satirize their
countrymen for their excessive partiality to the turbot and mullet.

So infatuated were many of the Greek gastronomes with the love of fish, that some of
them would have preferred death from indigestion to the relinquishment of the precious
dainties with which a few of the species supplied them. Philoxenes of Cythera was one
of these. On being informed by his physician that he was going to die of indigestion,
on account of the quantity he was consuming of a delicious fish, “ Be it so,” he calmly
observed j “ but before I die, let me finish the remainder.”

213. The Geographical Situation of Greece was highly favourable for
the development of a taste for the piscatory tribes ; and the skill of the Greek
cooks was so great, that they could impart every variety of relish to the dish
they were called upon to prepare. Athenseus has transmitted to posterity
some very important precepts upon their ingenuity in seasoning with salt, oil,
and aromatics.

At the present day the food of the Greeks, through the combined influence of poverty
and the long fusts which their religion imposes upon them, is, to a large extent, composed
of fish, accompanied with vegetables and fruit. Caviare, prepared from the roes of
sturgeons, is the national ragout, which, like all other fish dishes, they season with
aromatic herbs. Snails dressed in garlic are also a favourite dish.

214. As THE Romans, in a great measure, took their taste in the fine arts
from the Greeks, so did they, in some measure, their piscine appetites. The
eel-pout and the lotas’s liver were the favourite fish dishes of tho Roman
epicures ; whilst the red mullet was esteemed as one of the most delicate
fishes that could be brought to the table.

With all the elegance, taste, and refinement of Roman luxury, it was sometimes
promoted or accompanied by act9 of great barbarity. In proof of this, the mention of
the red mullet, suggests the mode in which it was sometimes treated for the, to us,
horrible entertainment of the fashionable in Roman circles. It may be premised, that
as England has, Rome, in her palmy days, had, her lops, who had, no doubt, through tho
medium of their cooks, discovered that when the scales of the red mullet were removed,
the flesh presented a line pink-colour. Having discovered this, it was further observed
that at the death of the animal, this colour passed through a succession of beautiful
shades, and, In order that these might be witnessed and enjoyed in their fullest
perfection, the poor mullet was served alive in a glass vessel.

215. The love of Fish among the ancient Romans rose to a real mania.
Apicius offered a prize to any one who could invent a new brine compounded
of the liver of red mullets ; and Lucullus bad a canal cut through a mountain,
in tho neighbourhood of N aples, that fish might be the more easily transported
to the gardens of his villa. Hortensius, the orator, wept over the death of a
turbot which ho had fed with his own hands ; and tho daughter of Druses
adorned one that she had, with rings of gold. These were, surely, instances of
misplaced affection ; but there is no accounting for tastes. It was but the

112

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKER?.

oilier day that we read in tlio “ Times" oi a wealthy living English hermit,
who delights in the companionship of rats !

The modern Romans are merged in the general name of Italians, who, with the
exception pf macaroni, have no specially characteristic article of food.

216. From Rome to Gaul is, considering the means of modern locomotion,
no great way ; but the ancient sumptuary laws of that kingdom give us little
information regarding the ichthyophagous propensities of its inhabitants.
Louis XII. engaged six fishmongers to furnish his board with fresh-water
animals, and Francis I. had twenty-two, whilst Henry the Great extended his
requirements a little further, and had twenty-four. In the time of Louis XIV.
the cooks had attained to such a degree of perfection in their art. that they
could convert the form and flesh of the trout, pike, or carp, into the very
shape and flavour of the most delicious game.

The French long enjoyed a European reputation for their skill and refinement in the
preparing of food. In place of plain joints, French cookery delights iu the marvels of
what are called made dishes, ragouts, stews, and fricassees, in which no trace of the
original materials of which they are compounded is to be found.

217. From Gaul we cross to Britain, where it has been asserted, by, at
least, one authority, that the ancient inhabitants ate no fish. However this
may be, we know that the British shores, particularly those of the North Sea,
lave always been well supplied with the best kinds of fish, which we may
treasonably infer was not unknown to the inhabitants, or likely to be lost upon
them for the lack of knowledge as to how they tasted. By the time of
Edward II., fish had, in England, become a dainty, especially the sturgeon,
which was permitted to appear on no table but that of the king. In the
fourteenth century, a decree of King John informs us that the people ate both
seals and porpoises ; whilst in the days of the Troubadours, whales were fished
for and caught in the Mediterranean Sea, for the purpose of being used as
human food.

Whatever checks the ancient British may have had upon their piscatory appetites,
there are happily none of any great consequence upon the modern, who delight in
wholesome food of every kind. Their taste is, perliups, too much inclined to that
which is accounted solid and substantial; but they really eat more moderately, even of
animal food, than either the French or the Germans. Roast beef, or other viands
cooked in the plainest manner, are, with them, a sufficient luxury; yet they delight in
living well, whilst it is easy to prove how largely their affections are developed by
oven the prospect of a substantial cheer. In proof of this we will just observe, that
if a great dinner is to be celebrated, it is not uncommon for the appointed stewards
and committee to meet and have a preliminary dinner among themselves, in order to
arrange the great one, and after that, to have another dinner to discharge the bill
which the great one cost. This enjoyable disposition we take to form a very large item
in the aggregate happiness of the nation.

2 18. The general Use op Fish, as an article of human food among civilized
nations, we have thus sufficiently shown, and will conclude this portion of our j
subject with tho following hints, which ought to be remembered by all those *
who are fond of occasionally varying their dietary with a piscine dish : —

I. Fish shortly before they spawn are, in general, best in condition. When
tho spawning is just over, they are out of season, and unfit for human food.

, —

• V

V' •

B. Boiled Salmon.

A. Dish of Billeted Soles.

0. Cod’s Head and Shoulders.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR DRESSING FISH.

113

* I

II. When fish is out of season, it has a transparent, bluish tinge, however
much it may be boiled ; when it is in season, its muscles are firm, and boil
white and curdy.

III. As food for invalids, white fish, such as the ling, cod, haddock,
coal-fish, and whiting, are the best ; flat fish, as soles, skate, turbot, and
flounders, are also good.

IY. Salmon, mackerel, herrings, and trout soon spoil or decompose after
they are killed ; therefore, to be in perfection, they should be prepared for the
table on the day they are caught. With flat fish, this is not of such con-
sequence, as they will keep longer. The turbot, for example, is improved by
being kept a day or two.

GEUEBAL DIRECTIONS FOB DRESSING EISH.

219. In Dressing Fish, of any .kind, the first point to be attended to, is to
see that it be perfectly clean. It is a common error to wash it too much ; as
by doing so the flavour is diminished. If the fish is to be boiled, a little salt
and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, alter it is cleaned.
Cod-fish, whiting, and haddock, are far better if a little salted, and kept a day ;
and if the weather be not very hot, they will be good for two days.

•220. When Fish is Cheap and Plentiful, and a larger quantity is pur
chased than is immediately wanted, the overplus of such as will bear it should
be potted, or pickled, or salted, and hung up ; or it may be fried, that it may
serve for stewing the next day. Fresh- water fish, having frequently a muddy
smell and taste, should be soaked in strong salt and water, after it has been
well cleaned. If of a sufficient size, it may be scalded in salt and water, and
afterwards dried and dressed.

221. Fish should be put into Cold Water, and set on the fire to do
very gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Unless
the fishes are small, they should never be put into warm water ; nor should
water, either hot or cold, be poured on to the fish, as it is liable to break the
kin : if it should be necessary to add a little water whilst the fish is cooking,
't ought to be poured in gently at the side of the vessel. The fish-plate* may <
e drawn up, to see if the fish be ready, which may be known by its easily
parating from the bone. It should then be immediately taken out of the
ater, or it will become woolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over
he kettle, to keep hot for serving, and a clean cloth over the fish, to prevent
ts losing its colour.

222. In Garnishing Fish, great attention is required, and plenty of parsley,

114

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

horseradish, and lemon should be used., If fried parsley be used, it must be
washed and picked, and thrown into fresh water. When the lard or dripping
boils, throw the parsley into it immediately from the water, and instantly it
will be green and crisp, and must be taken up with a slice. When well done,
and with very good sauce, fish is more appreciated than almost any other dish.
The liver and roe, in some instances, should be placed on the dish, in order
that they may be distributed in the course of serving ; but to each recipe will
be appended the proper mode of serving and garnishing.

223. If Fish is to be Fried or Broiled, it must be dried in a nice soft cloth,
after it is well cleaned and washed. If for frying, brash it over with egg, and
sprinkle it with some fine crumbs of bread. If done a second time with the
egg and bread, the fish will look so much the better. If required to be very
nice, a sheet of white blotting-paper must be placed to receive it, that it may
be free from all grease. It must also be of a beautiful colour, and all the
crumbs appear distinct. Butter'gives a bad colour ; lard and clarified dripping
are most frequently used ; but oil is the best, if the expense be no objection.
The fish should be put into the lard when boiling, and there should be a suffi-
ciency of this to cover it.

224. When Fish is Broiled, it must be seasoned, floured, and laid on a
very elean gridiron, which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit of suet,
to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled over a very clear fire,
that it may not taste smoky ; and not too near, that it may not be scorched.

225. In choosing Fish, it is well to remember that it is possible it may be
j Fresh, and yet not good. Under the head of each particular fish in this work,
are appended rules for its choice and the months when it is in season. Nothing
can be of greater consequence to a cook than to have the fish good ; as if this
important course in a dinner does not give satisfaction, it is rarely that the
repast goes off w e%

RECIPES

CHAPTER VIII.

PISH.

[Nothing is more difficult than to give the average 'prices of Fish, inasmuch as
a few hours of bad weather at sea will, in the space of one day, cause such a
difference in its supply, that the same fish — a turbot for instance — which may be
bought to-day for six or seven shillings, will, to-morrow, be, in the London
markets, worth, perhaps, almost as many pounds. The average costs, therefore,
which will be found appended to each recipe, must be understood as about the
average price for the different kinds of fish, when the market is supplied upon
an average, and when the various sorts are of an average size and quality.

General Rule in Choosing Fish. — A proof of freshness and goodness
in most fishes, is their being covered with scales ; for, if deficient in this respect,
it is a sign of their being stale, or having been ill-used.\

PRIED ANCHOVIE3.

226. Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of oil, i a glass of white wine,
sufficient flour to thicken ; 12 anchovies.

Mode. — Mix the oil and wine together, with sufficient flour to make
them into a thickish paste ; cleanse the anchovies, wipe them, dip
them in the paste, and fry of a nice bro'ivn colour. 9
Time. — 5 hour. Average cost for this quantity, 9c?.

Seasonable all the year.

Sufficient for 2 persons.

The Anchovy. — In his book of “ British Fishes,” Mr. Yarrell states that “the anchovj-
is a common fish in the Mediterranean, from
Greece to Gibraltar, and was well known to
the Greeks and Romans, by whom the liquor
prepared from it, called garum, was in great
estimation. Its extreme range is extended into
the Black Sea. The fishing tor them is carried
on during the night, and lights are used with the
nets. The anchovy iB common on the coasts of
Portugal, Spain, and France. It occurs, I have
no doubt, at the Channel Islands, and has been
taken on the Hampshire coast, and in the Bris-
tol Channel.” Otner fish, of inferior quality,
bnt resembling the real Gorgona anchovy, are frequently sold for it, and passed off as
genuine.

THE ANCHOVY.

1 2

116

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ANCHOVY BUTTER OR PASTE.

027. Ingredients.— 2 dozen anchovies, £lb. of fresh butter.

. Mode.— Wash the anchovies thoroughly; bone and dry them, and
pound them in a mortar to a paste. Mix the butter gradually with
them, and rub the whole through a sieve. Put it by in small pots for
use, and carefully exclude the air with a bladder, as it soon changes
the colour of anchovies, besides spoiling them.

Average cost for this quantity, 2s.

POTTED ANCHOVIES.

Potted Anchovies are made in the same way, by adding pounded
mace, cayenne, and nutmeg to taste.

ANCHOVY TOAST.

228. Ingredients. — Toast 2 or 3 slices of bread, or, if wanted very
savoury, fry them in clarified butter, and spread on them the paste,
Ho. 227. Made mustard, or a few grains of cayenne, may be added
to the paste before laying it on the toast.

Anchovt Paste. — “When some delicate zest,” says n work just issued on the adulte-
rations of trade, “is required to make the plain English breakfast more palatable,
many pteople are in the habit of indulging in what they imagine to be anchovies. These
fell are preserved in a kind of pickling-bottle, carefully corked down, and surrounded by
a red-looking liquor, resembling in appearance diluted clay. The price is moderate, one
shilling only being demanded for the luxury. When these anchovies are what is termed
potted, it implies that the fish have been pounded into the consistency of a paste, and
then placed in flat pots, somewhat similar in shape to those used for pomatum. This
paste is usually eaten spread upon toast, and is said to form an excellent bonne louche,
which enables gentlemen at wine-parties to enjoy their port with redoubled gusto.
Unfortunately, in six cases out of ten, the only portion of these preserved delicacies, that
contains anything indicative of anchovies, is the pnper label pasted on the bottle or pot,
on which the word itself is printed. . , . All the samples of anchovy paste, analyzed by
Afferent medical men, have been found to be highly and vividly coloured with very
^ge quantities of bole Armenian.” The anchovy itself, when imported, is of a dark dead
colour, and it is to make it a bright “ handsome-looking sauce" that this red earth is
used.

BARBEL.

229. Ingredients.— -J- pint of port wine, a saltspoonful of salt, 2 table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, 2 sliced onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, nutmeg
and mace to taste, the juice of a lemon, 2 anchovies ; 1 or 2 barbels,
according to size.

Mode. — Boil the barbels in salt and water till done ; pour oft’ some
of the water, and, to the remainder, put the ingredients mentioned
above. Simmer gently for hour, or rather more, and strain. Put
in the fish ; heat it gradually ; but do not let it boil, or it will be
broken.

FISH.

117

Time. — Altogether 1 hour. Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from September to No-
vember.

The Barbel.— This fish takes its name from the
barbs or wattels at its mouth ; and, in England,
is esteemed as one of the worst of the fresh-water
fish. It was, however, formerly, if not now, a
favourite with the Jews, excellent cookers of
fish. Others would bod with it a piece of
bacon, that it might have a relish. It is to
be met with from two to three or four feet
long, and is said to live to a great age. the barbel.

From Putney upwards, in the Thames, some

are found of large size ; but they are valued only as affording sport to the brethren of
the angle.

BUELL.

230. Ingeemenxs. — j lb. of salt to each gallon of water ; a little
vinegar.

Mode. — Clean tbe brill, cut off tbe fins, and rub it over with a little
lemon-juice, to preserve its whiteness. Set tbe fisb in sufficient cold
water to cover it ; throw in salt, in tbe above proportions, and a little
vinegar, and bring it gradually to boil ; simmer very gently till tbe
fisb is done, which will be in about 10 minutes ; but tbe time for
boiling, of course, depends entirely on tbe size of tbe fisb. Serve it
on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon, parsley, horseradish,
and a little lobster coral sprinkled over tbe fisb. Send lobster or
shrimp sauce and plain melted butter
to table with it.

Time. — After tbe water boils, a small
brill, 10 minutes ; a large brill, 15 to 20
minutes.

Average cost, from 4s. to Ss.

Seasonable from August to April.

The Beim. — This fish resembles the sole, but
is broader, iind when large, is esteemed by many
in a scarcely less degree than the turbot, whilst
it is much cheaper. It is a line fish, and is abundant in the London market.

To CHoose Brill.— Tbo flesh of this fish, like that of turbot, should be of
a yellowish tint, and should bo chosen on account of its thickness. If the flesh
has a bluish tint, it is not good.

THE BRILL.

CODFISH.

231. Cod may be boiled whole ; but a large bead and shoulders are
quite sufficient for a dish, and contain all that is usually helped,
because, when tbe thick part is done, the tail is insipid and overdone.
Tbe latter, cut in slices, makes a very good dish for frying ; or it may

118

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

be salted down and served with egg sauce and parsnips. Cod, when

boiled quite fresh, is watery; salting
a little, renders it firmer.

; Tint Cob Tbibe— Tho Jugular, characterized
by bony plls, and ventral Uns before the pectoral
ones, commences the second of the Linujean orders
of fishes, and is a numerous tribe, inhabiting only
the depths of the ocean, and seldom visiting the
fresh waters. They have a smooth head, and th'
gill membrane has seven rays. The body is oblong,
and covered with deciduous scales. The fins are
all inclosed in skin, whilst their rays are unarmed.
The ventral finB are slender, and terminate in &
point. Their habits are gregarious, and they feed on smaller fish and other marine
animals.

COD’S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.

232. Ingredients. — Sufficient water to cover the fish ; 5 oz. of
salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and rub a little salt over the
thick part and inside of the fish, 1 or 2 hours before dressing it, as this
very much improves the flavour. Lay it in the fish-kettle, with
sufficient cold water to cover it. Be very particular not to pour the
water on the fish, as it is liable to break it, and only keep it just
simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little by pouring
it in at the side of the kettle, and not on the fish. Add salt in the
above proportion, and bring it gradually to a boil. Skim very carefully,
draw it to the side of the fire, and let it gently simmer till done. Take
it out and drain it ; serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut
lemon, horseradish, the roe and liver. ( See Coloured Plate C.)

Time. — According to size, 5 an hom’, more or less. Average
cost , from 3s. to 6s.

Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from November to March.

Note. — Oyster sauce and plain melted butter should be served with this.

To Choose Cod. — The cod should be chosen for the table when it is plump
and round near the tail, when the hollow behind the head is deep, and when
the sides are undulated as if they were ribbed. The glutinous parts about
the head lose their delicate flavour, after the fish has been twenty-four- hours
■out of the water. The great point by which the cod should be judged is tho
firmness of its flesh ; and, although the cod is not firm when it is alive, its
quality may be arrived at by pressing tho finger into the flesh. If this rises
immediately, the fish is good ; if not, it is stale. Another sign of its goodness
is, if the fish, when it is cut, exhibits a bronze appearance, like the silver
side of a round of beef. When this is the case, tho flesh will bo firm when
cooked. Stiffness in a cod, or in any other fish, is a sure sign of freshness,
though not always of quality. Sometimes, codfish, though exhibiting signs

FISH.

119

of rough usage, will eat much better than those with red gills, so strongly
rocoramended by many cookery-books. This appearance is generally caused
by tho fish having been knocked about at sc^, in the well-boats, in which they
are conveyed from the fishing-grounds to market.

SALT COD, COMMONLY CALLS® “ SALT-DISH.”

233. Ingredients. — Sufficient water to coyer the fish.

Mode. — Wash the fish, and lay it all night in water, with a \ pint
of vinegar. When thoroughly soaked, take it out, see that it is
perfectly clean, and put it in the fish-kettle with sufficient cold water
to cover it. Heat it gradually, but do not let it boil much, or the
fish will be hard. Skim well, and when done, drain the fish and put
it on a napkin garnished with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings.

Time. — About 1 hour. Average cost, 6d. per lb.

Seasonable in the spring.

Sufficient for each person, jib.

Note. — Serve with egg sauce and parsnips. This is an especial dish on Ash-
Wednesday.

Pbesbbvtitg Con. — Immediately as the cod are caught, their heads are cut off.
They are then opened, cleaned, and salted, when they are stowed away in the
hold of the vessel, in beds of five or six yards square, head to tail, with a layer of salt
to each layer of fish. When they have lain in this state three or four days, in order
that the water may drain from them, they are shifted into a different part of the vessel,
and again salted. Here they remain till the vessel is loaded, when they are sometimes
cut into thick pieces and packed in barrels for the greater convenience of carriage.

COD SOUNDS

Should be well soaked in salt and water, and thoroughly washed
before dressing them. They are considered a great delicacy, and may
either be broiled, fried, or boiled : if they are boiled, mix a little milk
with the water.

COD SOUNDS, BN POULE.

234. Ingredients. — For foreem’eat, 12 chopped oysters, 3 chopped
anchovies, j lb. of bread crumbs, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs ; seasoning
of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and mace to taste ; 4 cod sounds.

Mode. — Make the forcemeat by mixing the ingredients well
together. Wash the sounds, and boil them in milk and water for
i an hour ; take them out and let them cool. Cover each with a layer
of forcemeat, roll them up in a nice form, and skewer them. Rub
over with lard, dredge with flour, and cook them gently before the
fire in a Dutch oven.

Time. — l hour. Average cost, G d. per lb.

120

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Seasonable from November to March. Sufficient for 4 persons.

The Sounds in Codfish. — These are the air or swimming bladders, by means of
■which the fishes are enabled to ascend or descend in the water. In the Newfoundland
fishery they are taken out previous to incipient putrefaction, washed from their slime
and salted for exportation. The tongues are also cured and packed up in barrels ;
whilst, from the livers, considerable quantities of oil are extracted, this oil having been
found possessed of the most nourishing properties, and particularly beneficial in cases
of pulmonary affections. •

COD PIE.

( Economical .)

235. Ingredients. — Any remains of cold cod, 12 oysters, sufficient
melted butter to moisten it ; mashed potatoes enough to fill up the dish.

Mode. — Flake the fish from the bone, and carefully take away all
the skin. Lay it in a pie-dish, pour over the melted butter and oysters
(or oyster sauce, if there is any left), and cover with mashed potatoes.
Bake for -l an hour, and send to table of a nice brown colour.

Time. — § hour.

Seasonable from November to March.

II.

236. Ingredients.— 2 slices of cod; pepper and salt to taste;
h a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 large blade of pounded mace,
2 oz. of butter, J j)int of stock No. 107, a paste crust (see Pastry).
For sauce, 1 tablespoonful of stock, £ pint of cream or milk,
thickening of flour or butter ; lemon-peel chopped very fine to taste ;
12 oysters.

Mode. — Lay the cod in salt for 4 hours, then wash it and place it in
a dish ; season, and add the butter and stock ; cover with the crust,
and bake for 1 hour, or rather more. Now make the sauce, by mixing
the ingredients named above ; give it one boil, and pour it into the
pie by a hole made at the top of the crust, which can easily be covered
by a small piece of pastry cut and baked in any fanciful shape— such
as a leaf, or otherwise.

Time. — 1| hour. Average cost, with fresh fish, 2s. 6 d.

Seasonable from November to March.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

Note. — Tlao remains of cold fish may be used for this pio.

CURRIED COD.

237. Ingredients. — 2 slices of large cod, or the remains of any cold
fish ; 3 oz. of butter, 1 onion sliced, a teacupful of white stock, thick-

fish.

121

ening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, \ pint of
cream, salt and cayenne to taste.

31ode. — Flake the fish, and fry it of a nice brown colour with the
butter and onions ; put this in a stewpan, add the stock and thick-
ening-, and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir the curry-powder into the
cream ; put it, with the seasoning, to the other ingredients ; give one
boil, and serve.

Time. — f hour. Average cost , with fresh fish, 3.s.

Seasonable from November to March.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

The Food oe the Cod. — This chiefly consists of the smaller species of the scaly
tribes, shell-fish, crabs, and worms. Their voracity is very great, and they will bite
at any small body they 'see moved by the water, even stones and pebbles, which are
frequently found in their stomachs. They sometimes attain a great size, but their
usual weight is from 14 to 40 lbs.

COD A LA CREME.

238. Ingredients. — 1 large slice of cod, 1 oz. of butter, 1 chopped
shalot, a little minced parsley, | teacupful of white stock, £ pint
of milk or cream, flour to thicken, cayenne and lemon-juice to taste,
5 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

Mode. — Boil the cod, and while hot, break it into flakes ; put the
butter, shalot, parsley, and stock into a stewpan, and let them
boil for 5 minutes. Stir in sufficient flour to thicken, and pour to it
the milk or cream. Simmer for 10 minutes, add the cayenne and
sugar, and, when liked, a little lemon-juice. Put the fish in the
sauce to warm gradually, but do not let it boil. Serve in a dish
garnished with croutons.

Time. — Rather more than § hour. Average cost, with cream, 2s.

Seasonable from November to March.

Sufficient for 3 persons.

.V ote. — The remains of fish from the preceding day answer very well for this
dish.

COD A LA BECHAMEL.

239. Ingredients.— Any remains of cold cod, 4 tablespoonfuls of
bechamel (see Sauces), 2 oz. butter; seasoning to taste of pepper and
salt ; fried bread, a few bread crumbs.

Mode. Plake the cod carefully, leaving out all skin and bone;
put the bechamel in a stewpan with the butter, and stir it over the
tire till the latter is melted ; add seasoning, put in the fish, and mix
it well with the sauce. Make a border of fried bread round the dish,
lay in the fish, sprinkle over with bread crumbs, and baste with

122

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

butter. Brown either before the fire or with a salamander, and garnish
with toasted bread cut in fanciful shapes.

Time. — b hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the fish, 0>d.

The Habitat op the Cod.— This fish is found only in the seas of the northern parts
of the world, between the latitudes of 45° and 06°. Its great rendezvous are the sand-
banks of Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, and New England. These places
are its favourite resorts ; for there it is able to obtain great quantities of worms, a
food peculiarly grateful to it. Another cause of its attachment to these places lia3
been said to be on account of the vicinity to the Polar seas, where it returns to spawn.
Eew are taken north of Iceland, and the shoals never reach so far south as the Straits
of Gibraltar. Many are taken on the coasts of Norway, in the Baltic, and off the
Orkneys, which, prior to the discovery of Newfoundland, formed one of the principal
fisheries. The London market is supplied by those taken between the Dogger Bank,
the Well Bank, and Cromer, on the cast coast of England.

COD A LA MAITKE D’HOTEL.

240. Ingredients.— 2 slices of cod, £ lb. of butter, a little chopped
sbalot and parsley ; pepper to taste, \ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,
or rather less, when the flavour is not liked ; the juice of \ lemon.

Mode. — Boil the cod, and either leave it whole, or, what is still better,
flake it from the bone, and take off the skin. Put it into a stewpan
with the butter, parsley, shalot, pepper, and nutmeg. Melt the
butter gradually, and be very careful that it does not become like
oil. When all is well mixed and thoroughly hot, add the lemon-juice,
and serve.

Time. — b hour. Average cost, 2s. 6 d. ; with remains of cold fish, 5d.

Seasonable from November to March.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Note. — Cod that has been left will do for this.

The Season bob Pishing Cod. — The best season for catching cod is from the
beginning of February to the end of April ; and although each fisherman engaged in.
taking them, catches no more than one at a time, an expert hand will sometimes take
four hundred in a day. The employment is excessively fatiguing, from the weight of
the fish as well as from the eoldness of the climate.

COD A L’lTALIEHOTE.

241. Ingredients. — 2 slices of crimped cod, 1 shalot, 1 slice of
ham minced very tine, pint of white stock, No. 107 ; when liked, b
teacupful of cream ; salt to taste ; a few drops of garlic vinegar, a
little lemon -juice, b teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

Mode. — Chop the shalots, mince the ham very fine, pour on the
stock, and simmer for 15 minutes. If the colour should not be good,
add cream in the above proportion, and strain it through a fine sieve ;
season it, and put in the vinegar, lemon-juice, and sugar. Now boil
the cod, take out the middle bone, and skin it; put it on the dish
without breaking, and pour the sauce over it.

FISH.

123

Time. — f hour. Average cost, 3s. 6d., with fresh fish.

Seasonable from November to March.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Tns Fecundity of thr Cod. — In our preceding remarks on the natural history of
fishes, vre have spoken of the amazin'' fruitfulness of this fish; but in this we Ace oue
more instance of the wise provision which Nature has made for supplying the^ants of
man. So extensive has been the consumption of this fish, that it is surprising that it
has not long ago become extinct ; which would certainly have been the case, had it not
been for its wonderful powers of reproduction. “So early as 1368,” says Dr. Cloquet,
“ the inhabitants of Amsterdam had dispatched fishermen to the coast of Sweden ; and
in the first quarter of 1792, from the ports of France only, 210 vessels went out to the
cod-fisheries. Every year, however, upwards of 10,000 vessels, of all nations, are em-
ployed in this trade, and bring into the commercial world more than 40,000,000 of salted
and dried cod. If we add to this immense number, the havoc made among the legions
of cod by the larger scaly tribes of the great deep, aud take into account the destruction
to which the young are exposed by sea-fowls and other inhabitants of the seas, besides
the myriads of their eggs destroyed by accident, it becomes a miracle to find that such
mighty multitudes of them are still in existence, and ready to continue the exhaustless
supply. Yet it ceases to excite our wonder when we remember that the female can
every year give birth to more than 9,000,000 at a time.”

BAKED CARP.

242. Ingredients. — 1 carp, forcemeat, bread crumbs, 1 oz. butter,
y pint of stock No. 105, i pint of port wine, 6 anchovies, 2 onions sliced,
1 bay-leaf, a faggot of sweet herbs, flour to thicken, the juice of 1
lemon ; cayenne and salt to taste ; | teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

Mode. — Stuff the carp with a delicate forcemeat, after thoroughly
cleansing it, and sew it up, to prevent the stuffing from falling out.
Nub it over with an egg, and sprinkle it with bread crumbs, lay it in
a deep earthen dish, and drop the butter, oiled, over the bread crumbs.
Add the stock, onions, bay-leaf, herbs, wine, and anchovies, and bake
for 1 hour. Put 1 oz. of butter into a stewpan, melt it, and dredge
in sufficient flour to dry it up ; put in the strained liquor from the
carp, stir frequently, and when it has boiled, add the lemon-juice
and seasoning. Serve the carp on a dish garnished with parsley
and cut lemon, and the sauce in a boat.

Time. — 1 j hour. Average cost. Seldom bought.

Seasonable from March to October.

Sufficient for 1 or 2 persons.

The Cabp. — This species of fish inhabit the
fresh waters, where they feed on worms, insects,
aquatic plants, small fish, clay, or mould. Some
of them are migratory. They have very small
mouths and no teeth, and the gill membrane has
three rays. The body is smooth, and generally
whitish. The carp both grows and increases very
last, and is accounted the most valuable of all
fish tor the stocking of ponds. It has been

Fm°^°iUnCCid.the, ,qUeen of nvci'-,l8,i. and was first TII„ r..,p

introduced to this country about three hundred carp.

years ago. Of its sound, or air-bladder, a kind of glue is made, and a green pniut of i

124

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

STEWED CAEP.

243. Ingredients.— 1 carp, salt, stock No. 105, 2 onions, 6 cloves,
12 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, $ pint of port wine, the juice of b
lemon, cayenne and salt to taste, a faggot of savoury herbs.

Mode. — Scale the fish, clean it nicely, and, if very large, divide it;
lay it in the stewpan, after having rubbed a little salt on it, and put in
sufficient stock to cover it ; add the herbs, onions, and spices, and
stew gently for 1 hour, or rather more, should it be very large. Dish
up the fish with great care, strain the liquor, and add to it the port
wine, lemon-juice, and cayenne ; give one boil, pour it over the fish,
and serve.

Time. — 1| hour. Average cost. Seldom bought.

Seasonable from March to October.

Sufficient for 1 or 2 persons.

Note. — This fish can be boiled plain, and served with parsley and butter.
Chub and Char may be cooked in the same manner as the above, as also Dace
and Eoach.

The Age of Caff. — This fish hag, been found to live 150 years. The pond in the
garden of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, contained one that had lived there 70 years,,
and Gesner mentions an instance of one 100 years old. They are, besides, capable ot
being tamed. Dr. Smith, in his “ Tour on the Continent,” says, in reference to the
prince of Condo's seat at Chantilly, “ The most pleasing things about it were the
immense shoals of very large carp, silvered over with age, like silver-fish, and perfectly
tame ; so that, when any passengers approached their watery habitation, they used to,
come to the shore in such numbers as to heave each other out of the water, begging for
bread, of which a quantity was always kept at hand, on purpose to feed them. They
would even allow themselves to be handled.”

inn CHUB. THE CHAR.

Tnn Chub. — This fish takes its name from its head, not only in England, but in otlici
countries. It is a river-fish, and resembles the carp, but is somewhat longer. Its Uesli
is not in much esteem,, being coarse, and, when out of season, full ol small hairy bones
The head and throat are the best parts. The roe is also good.

The Char. — This is one of the most delicious of fish, being esteemed by some superior
to the salmon. It is an inhabitant of the deep lakes ol mountainous countries. Its ' 1 '

is rich and red, and full of fat. The largest and best kind is found in the lakes of
Westmoreland, and, as it is considered a rarity, it is often potted and preserved.

The Dace, on Dare. — This fish is gregarious, and is seldom nbovo ten inches long :
although, according to Li mucus, it grows a foot and a hall in length. Its haunts aro in
deep water, near piles of bridges, where the stream is gentle, over gravelly, sandy, or
clayey bottoms ; deep holes that are shaded, water-lily leaves, and under the foam caused
by an eddy. In the warm months they are to be found in shoals on the shallows near
to streams. They are in season about the end of April, and gradually liuprovo till

FISH.

125

February, when they attain their highest condition. In that month, when just taken,
scotched (crimped), and broiled, they are said to be more palatable than a fresh herring.

THE DACE. THE EOACH.

The Eoach. — This fish is found throughout Europe, and the western parts of Asia,
in deep still rivers, of which it is an inhabitant. It is rarely more than a pound and a
half in weight, and is in season from September till March. It is plentiful in England,
and the finest are caught in the Thames. The proverb, ts as sound as a roach,” is derived
from the French name of this fish being roche , which also means rock.

TO DRESS CRAB.

244. Ingredients, — 1 crab, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 ditto of
oil ; salt, white pepper, and cayenne, to taste.

Mode. — Empty the shells, and thoroughly mis the meat with the
above ingredients, and put it in the large shell. Garnish with slices
of cut lemon and parsley. The quantity of oil may be increased when
it is much liked. (See Coloured Plate I.)

Average cost, from 10c?. to 2s.

Seasonable all the year ; but not so good in May, J une, and
July.

Sufficient for 3 persons.

To Choose Crab. — The middle-sized crab is the best ; and the crab, like
the lobster, should be judged by its weight ; for if light, it is watery.

HOT CRAB.

245, Ingredients. — 1 crab, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 3 oz.
of butter, \ lb. of bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

Mode. — After having boiled the crab, pick the meat out from the
shells, and mix with it the nutmeg and seasoning. Cut up the butter
in small pieces, and add the bread crumbs and vinegar. Mix altoge-
ther, put the whole in the large shell, and brown before the fire or
with a salamander.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, from 10 d. to 2s.

Seasonable all the year ; but not so good in May, Jun3, and July.

Sufficient for 3 persons.

The Cp.ab Tribe. — The whole of this tribe of animals have the body covered with a
hard and strong shell, and they live chiefly in the sea. Some, however, inhabit fresh

12G

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

waters, and a few live upon land. They feed variously, on aquatic or marine plants,
small fish, mollusc®, or dead bodieB. The bl-aclc-clavced species
is found on the rocky coasts of both Europe and India, and
is the same that is introduced to our tables, being much
more highly esteemed as a food than many others of the
tribe. The most remarkable feature in their history, is the
changing of their shells, and the reproduction of their broken
claws. The former occurs once a year, usually bet ween Christ-
mas and Easter, when the crabs retire to cavities in the
rocks, or conceal themselves under great stones. Fishermen
say that they will live confined in a pot or basket !br several
months together, without any other food than what is col-
lected from the sea-water ; and that, even in this situation,
they will not decrease in weight. The hermit crab is another
of the species, and has the peculiarity of taking possession of the deserted shell of some
other animal, as it has none of its own. This circumstance was known to the ancients,
and is alluded to in the following lines from Oppian

The hermit fish, unarm’d by Nature, left
Helpless and weak, grow strong by harmless theft.

Tearful they stroll, and look with panting wish
Eor the cast crust of some new-cover'd fish;

Or such as empty lie, and deck the shore,

WhoEe first and rightful owners are no more.

They make glad seizure of the vacant room,

And count the borrow’d shell their native home ;

Screw their soft limbs to fit the winding case.

And boldly herd with the crustaeeous race.

THE CHAD.

CRAYFISH.

246. Crayfish should he thrown into boiling; water, to which has
been added a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar. When done,
which will he in j hour, take them out and drain them. Let them
cool, arrange them on a napkin, and garnish with plenty of double
parsley.

Note. — This fish is frequently used for garnishing boiled turkey, boiled
fowl, calf’s head, turbot, and all kinds of boiled fish.

POTTED CRAYFISH.

247. Ingredients. — 100 crayfish ; pounded mace, pepper and salt
to taste, 2 oz. butter.

Mode. — Boil the fish in salt and water ; pick out all the meat and
pound it in a mortar to a paste. Whilst pounding, add the butter
gradually, and mix in the spice and seasoning. Put it in small pots,
and pour over it clarified butter, carefully excluding the air.

Time. — 15 minutes to boil the crayfish. Average cost, 2s. 9 d.

Seasonable all the year.

248. Ingredients. — £ lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — This fish, which is esteemed by most people a great deli-
cacy, is dressed in the same way as a turbot, which it resembles in

FISH.

127

firmness, but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly and cut off the
fins ; lay it in a fish-kettle, cover with cold water, and add salt in the
above proportion. Bring it gradually to a boil, and simmer gently
for £ hour, or rather longer, should the fish be very large. Serve
on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Lobster,
anchovy, or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to
table with it.

Time. — After the water boils, l to | hour, according to size.

Average cost, 3s. to 5s.

Seasonable all the year, but best
from September to January.

Note. — Small John Dorie are very good,
baked.

The Dobtt, or John Doey. — This fish is of
a yellowish golden colour, and ia, in general, rare,
although it is sometimes taken in abundance
on the Devon and Cornish coasts. It is highly inn JOHN doey.

esteemed for the table, and its flesh, when

dressed, is of a beautiful clear white. When fresh caught, it is tough, and, being a
ground fish, it is not .the worse for being kept two, or oven three days before it is
cooked.

BOILED EELS.

249. Ingredients.— 4 small eels, sufficient water to cover them ; a
large bunch of parsley.

Mode. — Choose small eels for boiling ; put them in a stewpan with
the parsley, and just sufficient water to cover them ; simmer till
tender. Take them out, pour a little parsley and butter over them,
and serve some in a tureen.

Time. — § hour. Average cost, 6 d. per lb.
Seasonable from June to March.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

The Eel Teibe.— The Apodal, or bony-gilled
and ventral-finned fish, of which the eel forms the
first Linnanui tribe, in their general aspect and .
manners, approach, in some instances, very nearly ?
to serpents. They have a smooth head and slip- n
pery skin, are in general naked, or covered with
such small, soft, and distant scales, as are scarcely
visible. Their bodies are long and slender, and
they are supposed to subsist entirely on animal

substances. There are about nine species of them,, THE yel.

mostly found in the seas. One of them frequents

our fresh waters, and three of the others occasionally pay a visit to our shores.

STEWED EELS.

250. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of eels, 1 pint of rich strong stock,

128

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

No. 104, 1 onion, 3 cloves, a piece of lemon-peel, 1 glass of port or
Madeira, 3 tablespoonl'uls of cream ; thickening of flour ; cayenne and
lemon-juice to taste.

Mode. — Wash and skin the eels, and cut them into pieces about 3
inches long ; pepper and salt them, and lay them in a stewpan ; pour-
over the stock, add the onion stuck with cloves, the lemon-peel,
and the wine. Stew gently for 4 hour, or rather more, and lift them
carefully on a dish, which keep hot. Strain the gravy, stir to the
cream sufficient flour to thicken ; mix altogether, boil for 2
minutes, and add the cayenne and lemon-juice; pour over the eels
and serve.

Time. — § hour. Average cost for this quantity, 2s. 3d.

Seasonable from June to March.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

The Common Eel.— This fish is known frequently to quit its native element, and to
set off on a wandering expedition in the night, or just about the close of day, over
the meadows, in search of snails and other prey. It also, sometimes, betakes itself to
isolated ponds, apparently for no other pleasure than that which may be supposed to be
fouud in a change of habitation. This, of course, accounts for eels being found in waters
which were never suspected to contain them. This rambling disposition in the eel has
been long known to naturalists, and, from the following lines, it seems to have been
known to the ancients : —

“ Thus the mail’d tortoise, and the wand’ring eel.

Oft to the neighbouring beach will silent steal."

251. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of middling-sized eels, 1 pint of medium
stock, No. 105, j pint of port wine ; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste ;
1 teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, the juice of 4 a lemon.

Mode. — Skin, wash, and clean the eels thoroughly ; cut them into
pieces 3 inches long, and put them into strong salt and water for 1
hour ; dry them well with a cloth, and fry them brown. Put the
stock on with the heads and tails of the eels, and simmer for § hour ;
strain it, and add all the other ingredients. Put in the eels, and stew
gently for 4 hour, when serve.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost , Is. 9 d. .

Seasonable from June to March.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

FRIED EELS.

25a. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of eels, 1 egg, a few bread crumbs, hot
lard.

Mode. — Wash the eels, cut them into pieces 3 inches long, trim and
wipe them very dry ; dredge with Hour, rub them over with egg, and
cover with bread crumbs ; fry of a nice brown in hot lard. If the

Fisn.

12D

eels are small, curl them round, instead of cutting them up. Garnish
with fried parsley.

Time. — 20 minutes, or rather less. Average cost, Gd. per lb.
Seasonable from June to March.

Note. — Garfish may be dressed like eels, aud either broiled or baked.

The Productiveness of the Eel. — “ Having occasion,” says Dr. Anderson, in the
Bee, “ to be once on a visit to a friend’s house on Dee-side, in Aberdeenshire, I frequently
delighted to walk by the banks of the river. I, one day, observed something like a black
string moving along the edge of the water, where it was quite shallow. Upon closer
inspection, I discovered that this was a shoal of young eels, so closely joined together a3
to appear, on a superficial view, one continued body, moving briskly up against the
stream. To avoid the retardment they experienced from the force of the current, they
kept close along the water’s edge the whole of the way, following all the bendings aud
sinuosities of the river. Where they were embayed, and in still water, the shoal dilated
in breadth, so as to be sometimes nearly a foot broad ; but when they turned a cape,
where the current was strong, they were forced to occupy less space aud press close to
the shore, struggling very hard till they passed it. This shoal continued to move on,
night and day without interruption for several weeks. Their progress might be at the
rate of about a mile an hour. It was easy to catch the animals, though they were very
active and nimble. They were eels perfectly well formed in every respect, but not
exceeding two inches in length. I conceive that the shoal did not contain, on an average,
less than from twelve to twenty in breadth ; so that the number that passed, on the whole,
must have been very great. Whence they came or whither they went, I know not ; but
the place where I saw this, was six miles from the sea.”

EEL PIE.

253. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of eels, a little chopped parsley, 1
shalot ; grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste; the juice of h a
lemon, small quantity of forcemeat, j pint of bechamel .(see Sauces) ;
puff paste.

Mode. — Skin and wash the eels, cut them into pieces 2 inches long,
and line the bottom of the pie-dish with forcemeat. Put in the eels,
and sprinkle them with the parsley, shalots, nutmeg, seasoning,
and lemon-juice, and cover with puff-paste. Bake for 1 hour, or
rather more ; make the bechamel hot, aud pour it into the pie.

Time. — Bather more than 1 hour.

Seasonable from August to March.

COLLARED EEL.

^54- Ingredients. — 1 large eel ; pepper and salt to taste ; 2 blades
•of mace, 2 cloves, a little allspice very finely pounded, 6 leaves of sage,
and a small bunch of herbs minced very small.

Mode. Bone the eel and skin it ; split it, and sprinkle it over with
-he ingredients, taking care that the spices are very finely pounded,
md the herbs chopped very small. Boll it up and bind with a
Droad piece of tape, and boil it in water, mixed with a little salt and
anegar, till tender. It may either be served whole or cut in slices ;

130

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and -when cold, the eel should he kept in the liquor it was boiled in,
but with a little more vinegar put to it.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, G d. per lb.

Seasonable from August to March.

Haunts or the Eel. — Theso are usually in mud, among woods, under roots or6tumps
of trees, or in holes in the banlcs or the bottoms of rivers. Here they often grow to an
enormous size, sometimes weighing as much as fifteen or sixteen pounds. They seldom
come forth from their hiding-places except in the night ; and, in winter, bury themselves
deep in the mud, on account of thoir great susceptibility of cold.

EELS A LA TAUT ARE.

255. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of eels, 1 carrot, 1 onion, a little flour, 1
glass of sherry ; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste ; bread crumbs,

1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

Mode. — Hub the butter on the bottom of the stewpan ; cut up tlie
carrot and onion, and stir them over the lire for 5 minutes ; dredge in
a little flour, add the wine and seasoning, and boil for § an hour.
Skin and wash the eels, cut them into pieces, put them to the other
ingredients, and simmer till tender. When they are done, take them
out, let them get cold, cover them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry
them of a nice brown. Put them on a dish, pour sauce piquante over,
and serve them hot.

Time. — 1§ hour. Average cost, Is. 8c?., exclusive of the sauce
piquante.

Seasonable from August to March. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

"Voracity of the Eel. — We find in a note upon Isaac Walton, by Sir John Hawkins,
that he knew of eels, when kept in ponds, frequently destroying ducks. From a canal
near his house at Twickenham he himself missed many young ducks; and on draining,
in order to clean it, great numbers of large eels were caught in the mud. When some of
these were opened, there were found iu their stomachs the undigested heads of the
quacking tribe which had become their victims.

,EELS EN MATELOTE.

256. Ingeedients. — 5 or 6 young onions, a few mushrooms, when
obtainable ; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste ; 1 laurel-leaf, $ pint of
port wine, 5 pint of medium stock, No. 105 ; butter and flour to thicken ;

2 lbs. of eels.

Mode. — Hub the stewpan with butter, dredge in a little flour, add
the onions cut very small, slightly brown them, and put in all the
other ingredients. Wash, and cutup the eels into pieces 3 inches
long ; put them in the stewpan, aiid simmer for & hour. Make round
the dish, a border of croutons, or pieces of toasted bread ; arrange
the eels in a pyramid in the centre, and pour over the sauce. Serve
very hot.

Time.— | hour. Average cost, Is. 9c?. for this quantity.

Seasonable from August to March. Sufficient lor 6 or 6 persons.

FISH.

101

Tenacity or Lieu in the Eel. — There is no fish so tenacious of life as this. After it
is skinned and cut in pieces, the parts will con-
tinue to move for a considerable time, and no
fish will live so long out of water.

The Lamthey. — With the Romans, this fish
occupied a respectable rank among the piscine
tribes, and in Britain it has at various periods
stood high in public favour. It was the cause
of the death of Henry I. of England, who ate so
much of them, that it brought on an attack of
indigestion, which carried him off. It is an in-
habitant of the sea, ascending rivers, principally
about the end of winter, and, after passing a
few months in fresh water, returning again to the eaiepbey.

its oceanic residence. It is most in season in

March, April, and May, but is, by some, regarded as an unwholesome food, although
looked on by others as a great delicacy. They are dressed as eels.

FISH AMT) OYSTER PIE.

257. Ingredients. — Any remains of cold fish, such as cod or had-
dock ; 2 dozen oysters, pepper and salt to taste, bread crumbs sufficient
for the quantity of fish ; i teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful
of finely-chopped parsley.

Mode. — Clear the fish from the hones, and put a layer of it in a pie-
dish, which sprinkle with pepper and salt; then a layer of bread
crumbs, oysters, nutmeg, and chopped parsley. Repeat this till the
dish is quite full. You may form a covering either of bread crumbs,
which should be browned, or puff-paste, which should be out into long
strips, and laid in cross-bars over the fish, with a line of the paste first
laid round the edge. Before putting on the top, pour in some made
melted butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the oyster-liquor, and
bake.

Time. — If made of cooked fish, \ hour ; if made of fresh fish and
puff-paste, f hour.

Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Seasonable from September to April.

Note. — A nice little dish may be made by flaking any cold fish, adding a
few oysters, seasoning with pepper and salt, and covering with mashed pota-
toes ; 1 hour will bake it.

FISH CAKE.

1258. Ingredients. — The remains of any cold fish, 1 onion, 1 faggot of
sweet herbs ; salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, equal quantities
of bread crumbs and cold potatoes, £ teaspoonful of parsley, 1 egg,
bread crumbs.

Mode. — Pick the meat from the bones of the fish, which latter put,
with the head and fins, into a stewpan with the water ; add pepper
j and salt, the onion and herbs, and stew slowly for gravy about 2
' hours ; chop the fish fine, and mix it well with bread crumbs and cold

k 2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

t on

lu-l

potatoes, adding the parsley and seasoning ; make the whole into a
cake with the white of an egg, brush it over with egg, cover with
bread crumbs, and fry of a light brown; strain the gravy, pour it
over, and stew gently for \ hour, stirring it carefully once or twice.
Serve hot, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley.

Time. — & hour, after the gravy is made.

BOILED FLOUNDERS.

259. Ingredients.— Sufficient water to cover the flounders, salt in
the proportion of 6 oz. to each gallon, a little vinegar.

Mode. — Put on a kettle with enough water to cover the flounders,
lay in the fish, add salt and vinegar iu the above proportions, and
when it boils, simmer very gently for 5 minutes. They must not boil
fast, or they will break. Serve with plain melted butter, or parsley
and butter.

Time. — After the water boils, 5
minutes. Average cost, 3 d. each.

Seasonable from August to Novem-
ber.

The Floiwdee.— This comes under Hie tribe
usually denominated Flat-fish, and is generally
held in the smallest estimation of any among
them. It is an inhabitant of both the seas and
the rivers, while it thrives in ponds. On the
JXOtraDEBS. English coasts it is very abundant, and the

London market consumes it in large quantities.
It is considered easy of digestion, and the Thames flounder is esteemed a delicate
flsh.

PRIED FLOUNDERS.

260. Ingredients. — Flounders, egg, and bread crumbs; boiling
lard.

Mode.— Cleanse the fish, and, two hours before they are wanted, rub
them inside and out with salt, to render them firm ; wash and wipe
them very dry, dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with bread
crumbs ; fry them in boiling lard, dish on a hot napkin, and garnish
with crisped parsley.

Time. — From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size.

Average cost, 3d. each.

Seasonable from August to November.

Sufficient, 1 for each person.

GUDGEONS.

26 1 . Ingredients. — Egg and bread crumbs sufficient for the
quantity of fish ; hot lard.

Mode. — Do not scrape off the scales, but take out the gills and

fish.

133

insidt, and cleanse thoroughly; wipe them dry, flour and dip them
into egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs. Fry of a nice brown.
Time— 3 or 4 minutes. Average cost. Seldom bought.

Seasonable from March to J uly .
Sufficient, 3 for each person.

The Gudgeon.— This is a fresh-water fish,
belonging to the carp genus, and is found in
placid streams and lakes. It was highly es-
teemed by the Greeks, and was, at the beginning
of supper, served fried at Rome. It abounds
both in France , and Germany; and is both
excellent and numerous in some of the rivers
flavoured, and easily digested.

THE GUDGEON.

of England. Its flesh is firm, wefl-

GURNET, or GURNARD.

06 2. Ingredients. — 1 gurnet, 6 oz. of salt to each, gallon of water.

Mode.— Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and cut off the fins; have
ready some boiling water, with salt in the above proportion ; put the
fish in, and simmer very gently for \ hour. Parsley and butter, or
anchovy sauce, should be served with it.

Time.— I hour. Average cost. Seldom bought.

Seasonable from October to March,
but in perfection in October.

Sufficient, a middling sized one for
2 persons.

Note. — This fish is frequently stuffed
with forcemeat and baked.

TnE Gurnet. — “If I be not ashamed of my
soldiers, lam a souced gurnet,” says Falstall' ; the guenet.

which shows that this fish has been long known

in England. It is very common on the British coasts, and is an excellent fish as food.

BAKED HADDOCKS.

263. Ingredients. — A nice forcemeat (see Forcemeats), butter to
taste, egg and bread crumbs.

Mode. — Scale and clean the fish, without cutting it open much ; put
in a nice delicate forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Brush it over with
egg, sprinkle over bread crumb3, and baste frequently with butter.
Garnish with parsley and cut lemon, and serve with a nice bruwn
gravy, plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce. The egg aud bread
l crumbs can be omitted, and pieces of butter placed over the fish.

Time. — Large haddock, 3; hour ; moderate size, \ hour.

Seasonable from August to February.

Average cost, from 'id. upwards.

131

MODERN nODSEHOED COOKERY.

Xok. — Haddocks rnay bo filleted, rubbed over with egg and bread crumbs,

and fried a nice brown; garnish with
crisped parsley.

The Haddock. — This fish migrates in immense
shouls, and arrives on the Yorkshire coast about
the middle of winter. It i« an inhabitant of the
northern seas of Europe, but does not enter the
Baltic, and is not known in the Mediterranean.
On each side of the body, just beyond the gills,
it has a dark spot, which superstition asserts to
be the impressions of the Unger and thumb of
St. Peter, when taking the tribute money out of a lish of this species.

BOILED HADDOCK.

264. Ingredients. — Sufficient water to cover the fish ; \ lb. of salt
to each gallon of water.

Mode. — Scrape the fish, take out the inside, wash it thoroughly,
and lay it in a kettle, with enough water to cover it, and salt in the
above proportion. Simmer gently from 15 to 20 minutes, or rather
more, should the fish he very large. For small haddocks, fasten the
tails in their mouths, and put them into boiling water. 10 to 15
minutes will cook them. Serve with plain melted butter, or anchovy
sauce.

Time. — Large haddock, § hour ; small, { hour, or rather less.

Average cost, from 9 d. upwards.

Seasonable from August to February.

Weight or the Haddock. — Tlie haddock seldom grows to any great size. In
general, they do not weigh moro than two or three pounds, or exceed ten or twelve
inches in size. Such arc esteemed very delicate eating; but they have been caught
three feet long, when their flesh is coarse.

DBIED HADDOCK.

265. Dried haddock should be gradually warmed through, either
before or over a nice clear fire. Eub a little piece of butter over, just
before sending it to table.

266. Ingredients. — 1 large thick haddock, 2 hay-leaves, 1 small
hunch of savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley, a little butter and
pepper ; boiling water.

Mode. — Cut up the haddock into square pieces, make a basin hot by
means of hot water, which pour out. Lay in the fish, with the bay-
leaves and herbs ; cover with boiling water ; put a plate over to keep
in tho steam, and let it remain for 10 minutes. Take out the slices,
put them in a hot dish, rub over with butter and pepper, and serve.

Time. — 10 minutes. Seasonable at any time, but best in winter.

FISH.

135

The Finnan Haddock. — This is the common haddock cured and dried, and takes
its name from the fishing-village of Findhorn, near Aberdeen, in Scotland, where the
art has long attained to perfection. The haddocks- are thero hung up for a day or two
in the smoke of peat, when they are ready for cooking, and are esteemed, by the Scotch,
a gucat delicacy. In London, an imitation of them is made by washing the llsli over
with pyroligneous acid, and hanging it up in a dry place for a few days.

BED HERRINGS, or YARMOUTH BLOATERS,

267. The best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin across
the fish, because they do not then require to be so long on the fire, and
will be far better, than when cut open. The hard roe makes a nice
relish by pounding it in a mortar, with a little anchovy, and spreading
it on toast. If very dry, soak in warm water 1 hour before dressing.

The Red Heering. — Tied herrings lie twenty-four hours in the brine, when they are
taken out and hung up in a smoking-house formed to receive them. A brushwood fire
is then kindled beneath them, and when they are sufficiently smoked and dried, they are
put into barrels for carriage.

BAKED WHITE HERRINGS.

268. Ingredients. — 12 herrings, 4 bay -leaves, 12 cloves, 12 allspice,
2 small blades of mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste, sufficient
vinegar to fill up the dish.

Mode. — Take the herrings', cut off the heads, and gut them.
Put them in a pie-dish, heads and tails alternately, and, between each
layer, sprinkle over the above ingredients. Cover the fish with the
vinegar, and bake for § hour, but do not use it till quite cold. The
herrings may be cut down the front, the backbone taken out, and
closed again. Sprats done in this way are very delicious.

Time. — \ an hour. Average cost, 1 cl. each.

To Choose the Hekring. — The more scales this fish has, the surer the sign
of its freshness. It should also have a bright and silvery look ; but if red
about the head, it is a sign that it has been dead for some time.

The Herring.— The herring tribe are found in the greatest abundance in the highest-
northern latitudes, where they find a quiet retreat, and security from their numerous
enemies. Here they multiply beyond expression,
and, in shoals, come forth from their icy region
to visit other portions of the great deep. In
June they are found about Shetland, whence
they proceed down to the Orkneys, where they
divide, and surround the islands of Groat Britain
and Ireland. The principal British herring-fish-
eries are off the Scotch and Norfolk coasts ; and
the fishing is always carried on by means of nets,
which are usually laid at night ; for, if stretched
by day, they are supposed to frighten the fish Herrin G.

away. Tho moment the herring is taken out of the water it dies. Hence the origin oi
the common saying, “ dead as a herring.” ® 01

eegeree.

2G9. Ingredients— Any cold fish, 1 tcacupful of boiled rice, 1 oz.
of butter, l teaspoonful of mustard, 2 soft-boiled eggs, salt and
cayenne to taste.

136

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode— Pick the fish carefully from the bones, mix with the other
ingredients, and serve very hot. The quantities may be varied
according to the amount of fish used.

Time. — J hour after the rice is boiled.

Average cost, 5 d., exclusive of the fish.

TO BOIL LOBSTERS.

270. Ingredients.— x lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — Buy the lobsters alive, and choose those that are heavy and
full of motion, which is an indication of their freshness. When the
shell is incrusted, it is a sign they are old : medium-sized lobsters are
the best. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the above
proportion ; put in the lobster, and keep it boiling quickly from 20
minutes to § hour, according to its size, and do not forget to skim
well. If it boils too long, the meat becomes thready, and if not done
enough, the spawn is not red : this must be obviated by great attention.
Rub the shell over with a little butter or sweet oil, which wipe off
again.

Time. — Small lobster, 20 minutes to h hour ; large ditto, £ to f hour.

Average cost, medium size, Is. 6d. to 2s. Gd.

Seasonable all the year, but best from March to October.

To Choose Bolsters. — This shell-fish, if it has been cooked alive, as it
ought to have been, will have a stiffness in the tail, which, if gently raised, will
return with a spring. Care, however, must be taken in thus proving it ; for if
the tail is pulled straight out, it will not return ; when the fish might be pro-
nounced inferior, which, in reality, may not be the case. In order to be good,
lobsters should be weighty for their bulk ; if light, they will be watery ; and
those of the medium size, are always the best. Small-sized lobsters are cheap-
est, and answer very well for sauco. In boiling lobsters, the appearance of tho
shell will be much improved by rubbing over it a little butter or salad-oil on
being immediately taken from the pot.

The Lobster. — This is one of the crab tribe, and is found on most of the roelcv coasts
of Great Britain. Some are caught with the hand, but the
larger number iu pots, which serve all the purposes of a trap,
beiugmadeof osiers, and baited with garbage. Theyareshaped
like a wire mousetrap ; so that when the lobsters once enter
them, they cannot get out again. They are fastened to a cord
and sunk in the sea, and their place marked by a buoy. The
fish is very prolific, and deposits its eggs in the sand, where
they are soon hatched. On the coast of Norway, they are very-
abundant, and it is from there that the English metropolis
is mostly supplied. They ure rather indigestible, and, us a
the lobster. food, not so nutritive us they arc generally supposed to be.

HOT LOBSTER,

271. Ingredients. — 1 lobster, 2 oz. of butter, grated nutmeg; salt,
pepper, and pounded macc, to taste ; bread crumbs, 2 eggs.

fish.

137

Mode. — Pound the meat of the lobster to a smooth paste with the
butter and seasoning, and add a few bread crumbs. Beat the eggs,
and make the whole mixture into the form of a lobster ; pound the
spawn, and sprinkle over it. Bake J hour, and just before serving,
lay over it the tail and body shell, with the small claws underneath,
to resemble a lobster.

Time. — ^ hour. Average cost, 2s. 6d.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

LOBSTER SALAD.

/ 272. Ingredients. — 1 hen lobster, lettuces, endive, small salad
(whatever is in season), a little chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs,
a few slices of cucumber. For dressing, equal quantities of oil and
vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, the yolks of 2 eggs ; cayenne
and salt to taste ; £ teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. These ingredients
should be mixed perfectly smooth, and form a creamy-looking sauce.

Mode. — Wash the salad, and thoroughly dry it by shaking it in a
cloth. Cut up the lettuces and endive, pour the dressing on them, and
lightly throw in the small salad. Mix all well together with the pick-
ings from the body of the lobster ; pick the meat from the shell, cut it
up into nice square pieces, put half in the salad, the other half reserve
for garnishing. Separate the yolks from the whites of 2 hard-boiled
eggs ; chop the whites very fine, and rub the yolks through a sieve,
and afterwards the coral from the inside. Arrange the salad lightly
on a glass dish, and garnish, first with a row of sliced cucumber, then
with the pieces of lobster, the yolks and whites of the eggs, coral, and
beetroot placed alternately, and arranged in small separate bunches,
so that the colours contrast nicely.

Average cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from April to October; may be had all the year, but
salad is scarce and expensive in winter.

Note. — A few crayfish make a pretty garnishing to lobster salad.

The Shell o r the Lobster. — Like the others of its tribe, the lobster annually
oasts its shell. Previously to its throwing off the old one, it appears sick, languid, anil
restless, but in the course of a few days it is entirely invested in its new coat of
armour. Whilst it is in a defenceless state, however, it seeks some lonely place,
where it may lie undisturbed,’ and escape the horrid fate of being devoured by some
of its own species who have the advantage of still being encased pi their mail.

LOBSTER (a la Mode Prancaise).

273. Ingredients. — 1 lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2
tablespoonfuls of cream, pounded mace, and cayenne to taste ; bread
crumbs.

138

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode.— Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it up into small
square pieces ; put the stock, cream, and seasoning into a stewpan, add
the lobster, and let it simmer gently for 6 minutes. Serve it in the
shell, which must be nicely cleaned, and have a border of puff-pasfe ;
cover it with bread crumbs, place small pieces of butter over, and
brown before the fire, or with a salamander.

Time. — j hour. Average cost, 2s. 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

Celebity or the Loestee. — In its element, the lobster is able to run with great speed
upon its legs, or small claws, and, if alarmed, to spring, tail foremost, to a considerable
distance, “ even,” it is said, “ with the swiftness of a bird flying.” Fishermen have seen
some of them pass about thirty feet with a wonderful degree of swiftness. When
frightened, they will take their spring, and, like a chamois of the Alps, plant themselves
upon the very spot upon which they designed to hold themselves.

LOBSTER CtlRRY (an Entree).

274. Ingredients. — 1 lobster, 2 onions, 1 oz. butter, 1 tablespoonful
of curry-powder, b pint of medium'stock, No. 105, the juice of --V lemon.

Mode. — Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it into nice square
pieces ; fry the onions of a pale brown in the butter, stir in the curry-
powder and stock, and simmer till it thickens, when put in the
lobster ; stew the whole slowly for A hour, and stir occasionally ; and
just before sending to table, put in the lemon-juice. Serve boiled rice
with it, the same as for other curries.

Time. — Altogether, f hour. Average cost, 3s.

Seasonable at any time.

LOBSTER CUTLETS (an Entree).

275. Ingredients. — 1 large hen lobster, 1 oz. fresh butter, i salt-
spoonful of salt, pounded mace, grated nutmeg, cayenne and white
pepper to taste, egg, and bread crumbs.

Mode. — Pick the meat from the shell, and pound it in a mortar
with the butter, and gradually add the mace and seasoning, well
mixing the ingredients ; beat all to a smooth paste, and add a little of
the spawn ; divide the mixture into pieces of an equal size, and shape
them like cutlets. They should not be very thick. Brush them over
with egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and stick a short piece of
the small claw in the top of each ; fry them of a nice brown in boiling
lard, and drain thefn before the lire, on a sieve reversed ; arrange them
nicely on a dish, and pour bechamel in the middle, but not -over the
cutlets.

Time. — About 8 minutes after the cutlets are made.

Average cost for this dish, 2s. 9 d.

Seasonable all the year. Sufficient for 5 or G persons.

FISH.

139

Ancient mode op Cooking the Lobster. — When this fish was to be served for the
table, among the ancients, it was opened lengthwise, and filled with a gravy composed of
coriander and pepper. It was thon put on the gridiron and slowly cooked, whilst it was
being basted with the same kind of gravy with which the flesh had become impregnated.

TO DRESS LOBSTERS.

276. When the lobster is boiled, rub it over with a little salad-oil,
which wipe off again ; separate the body from the tail, break off the
great claws, and crack them at the joints, without injuring the meat ;
split the tail in halves, and arrange all neatly in a dish, with the
body upright in the middle, and garnish with parsley. ( See Coloured
Plate, TL)

LOBSTER PATTIES (an Entree).

277. Ingbedients. — Minced lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of bechamel,
6 drops of anchovy sauce, lemon-juice, cayenne to taste.

Mode. — Line the patty-pans with puff-paste, and put into each a
small piece of bread ; cover with paste, brush over with egg, and bake
of a light colour. Take as much lobster as is required, mince the
meat very fine, and add the above ingredients ; stir it over the fire for
5 minutes ; remove the lids of the patty-cases, take out the bread, fill
with the mixture, and replace the covers.

Seasonable at any time.

Local Attachment op the Lobster, — It .is said that the attachment of this animal
is strong to some particular parts of the sea, a circumstance celebrated in the following
lines : —

“ Nought like their home the constant lobsters prize.

And foreign shores and seas unknown despise.

Though cruel hands the banish’d wretch expel,

And force the captive from his native cell,

He will, if freed, return with anxious care,

Find the known rook, and to his home repair $

No novel customs learns in different seas,

But wonted food and home-taught manners please.”

POTTED LOBSTER.

278. Ingeedients.— 2 lobsters ; seasoning to taste, of nutmeg,
pounded mace, white pepper, and salt ; £ lb. of butter, 3 or 4 bay -leaves.

Mode. Take out the meat carefully from the shell, but do not cut
it up. Put some butter at the bottom of a dish, lay in the lobster as
evenly as possible, with the bay-leaves and seasoning between. Cover
with butter, and bake for $ hour in a gentle oven. When done,
drain the whole on a sieve, and lay the pieces in potting-jars, with the
seasoning about them. When cold, pour over it clarified butter, and,
ii very highly seasoned, it will keep some time.

Time. -$ hour. Average cost for this quantity, 4s. 4 d.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. Potted lobster may bo usod cold, or as n fricassee with cream sauce.

110

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

How the Lobster Feeds. — The pincers of the lobster’s large claws are furnished
with nobs, and those of tho other, aro always serrated. With the former, it keeps
firm hold of the stalks of submarine plants, and with the latter, it cuts and minces
its food with great dexterity. The knobbed, or numb claw, as it is called by fishermen
is sometimes on the right and sometimes on the left, indifferently.

BAKED MACKEREL.

2"9- Ingredients. — 4 middling-sized mackerel, a nice delicate
forcemeat ( see Forcemeats), 3 oz. of butter ; pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Clean the fish, take out the roes, and fill up with forcemeat,
and sew up the slit. Flour, and put them in a dish, heads and tails
alternately, with the roes ; and, between each layer, put some little
pieces of butter, and pepper and salt. Bake for 4 an hoar, and either
serve with plain melted butter or a maitre d'Jiutel sauce.

Time. — l hour. Average cost for this quantity, Is. lOd.

Seasonable from April to July.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

Note. — Baked mackerel may be dressed in the same way as baked herrings
( see No. 268), and may also be stewed in wine.

Weight or the Mackerel.' — The greatest weight of this fish seldom exceeds 2 lbs.,
whilst their ordinary length runs between H and El) inches. They die almost immediately
after they are taken from their element, and, for a short time, exhibit a phosphoric light.

BOILED MACKEREL.

280. Ingredients. — £ lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in the
kettle with sufficient water to cover it with salt as above ; bring it
gradually to boil, skim well, and simmer gently till done ; dish them
on a hot napkin, heads and tails alternately, and garnish with fennel.
Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments
to boiled mackerel ; but caper or anchovy sauce is sometimes served
with it. ( See Coloured Plate, F.)

Time. — After the water boils, 10 minutes ; for large mackerel, allow
more time. Average cost, from id.

Seasonable from April to July.

Note. — When variety is desired, fillet the mackerel, boil it, and pour over
parsley and butter ; send some of this, besides, in a tureen.

BROILED MACKEREL.

281. Ingredients. — Pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity
of oil.

Mode. — Mackerel should never be washed when intended to be
broiled, but merely wiped very clean and dry, after taking out the -
gills and insides. Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, and

FISH.

141

oil ; broil it over a clear lire, turn it over on both sides, and also on the
back. When sufficiently cooked, the flesh can be detached Lorn the
bone, which will be in about 15 minutes for a small mackerel. Chop
a little parsle . work it up in the butter, with pepper and salt to taste,
and a squeeze of lemon-juice, and put it in the back. Serve before the
butter is quite melted, with a maitre cV hotel sauce in a tureen.

Time. — Small . mackerel 15 minutes.

Average cost, from id.

Seasonable from April to July.

The Mackerel. — This is not only one of the
most elegantly-formed, hut one of the most
beautifully-coloured fishes, when taken out of
the sea, that we hare. Death, iu some degree,
impairs the vivid splendour of its colours ; but
it does not entirely obliterate them. It visits
the shores of Great Britain in couutles3 shoals,
appearing about March, off the Land’s End ; in
the bays of Devonshire, about April ; off Brighton in the beginning of May ; and ou the
coast of Suffolk about the beginning of June. In the Orkneys they are seen till August;
but the greatest fishery is on the west coasts of England.

To Choose Mackerel. — In choosing this fish, purchasers should, to a great
extent, be regulated by the brightness of its appearance. If it have a trans-
parent, silvery hue, the flesh is good ; but if it be red about the head, it is
stale.

FILLETS OP MACKEREL.

282. Ingredients. — 2 large mackerel, 1 oz. butter, 1 small bunch
of chopped herbs, 3 tablespoonfols of medium stock, No. 105, 3 table-
spoonfuls of bechamel (see Sauces) ; salt, cayenne, and lemon-juice to
taste.

Mode. — Clean the fish, and fillet it ; scald the herbs, chop them
fine, and put them with the butter and stock into a stewpan. Lay in
i the mackerel, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes ; take them out,
and put them on a hot dish. Dredge in a little flour, add the other
i ingredients, give one boil, and pour it over the mackerel.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, Is. 6d.

Seasonable from Api'il to July.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Note. — Fillets of mackerel may be covered with egg and bread crumbs, and
- fried of a nice brown. Serve with maitre d' hotel sauce and plain melted
i butter.

The Voracity op the Mackbrei,. — The voracity of this fish is very great, and, from
: their immense numbers, they are bold in attacking objects of which they might, other-
1 wise, be expected to have a wholesome dread. Pontoppidan relates an anecdote of a
; sailor belonging to a ship lying in one of the harbours»on the coast of Norway, who,
having gone into the sea to bathe, was suddenly missed by his companions ; in the course
of a lew minutes, however, he was seen on the surface, with great numbers of mackerel
clinging to him by their mouths. His comrades hastened in a boat to his assistance ; but
r when they had struck the fishes from him and got him up, they found he was so severely
. bitten, that he shortly afterwards expired.

142

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

PICKLED MACKEREL.

283. INGEEDEENTS.—12 peppercorns, 2 bay-leaves, £ pint of vinegar,
4 mackerel.

Mode. — Boil the mackerel as in the recipe No. 282, and lay them
in a dish ; take half the liquor they were boiled in ; add as much
vinegar, peppercorns, and bay -leaves ; boil for 10 minutes, and when
cold, pour over the fish.

Time. — i hour. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Mackerel Garum. — This brine, so greatly esteemed by the ancients, was manufactured
from various kinds of fishes. When mackerel was employed, a few of them were placed
in a small vase, with a large quantity of salt, which was well stirred, and then left to
settle for some hours. On the following day, this was put into an earthen pot, which was
uncovered, and placed in a situation to get the rays of the sun. At the end of two or
three months, it was hermetically sealed, after having had added to it r. quantity of old
wine, equal to one third of the mixture.

GREY MULLET.

284. Ingeedients.— j lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — If the fish be very large, it should be laid in cold water,
and gradually brought to a boil ; if small, put it in boiling water,

salted in the above proportion. Serve
with anchovy sauce and plain melted
butter.

fish from the red mullet, iB abundant on the
the grey mullet. sandy coasts of Great Britain, and ascends

rivers for miles. On the south coast it is very
plentiful, and is considered a fine fish. It improves more than any other salt-water fish
when kept in ponds.

Time. — According to size, £ to f hour.
Average cost, 8 d. per lb.

Seasonable from July to October.
Tnu Grey Mullet. — This is quite a different

RED MULLET.

285. Ingeedients. — Oiled paper, thickening of butter and flour,
4- teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 glass of sherry*; cayenne and salt to
taste.

Mode.— Cleat the fish, take out the gills, but leave the inside, fold
in oiled paper, and bake them gently. When done, take the liquor
that flows from the fish, add a thickening of butter kneaded with
flour ; put in the other ingredients, and let it boil for 2 minutes. Serve
the sauce in a tureen, and the fish, either with or without the paper
cases. .

Time— About 25 minutes. Average cost, Is. each. ,

Seasonable at any time, but more plentiful in summer.

Note. — Rod mullet may bo broilod, and should bo folded iu oiled paper, tko

. FISH.

143

same as iu the preceding recipe, and seasoned with pepper and salt. They
may be served without sauce ; but if any is required, use melted butter,
Italian or anchovy sauce. They should never be plain boiled.

The Striped Red Mullet — This fish was
very highly esteemed by the ancients, especially
by the Homans, who gave the most extravagant
prices for it. Those of 2 lbs. weight were valued
at about £15 each ; those of 4i lbs. at £60, and, in
the reigu of Tiberius, three of them were sold
for £209. To witness the changing loveliness
of their colour during their dying agonies, was
one of the principal reasons that such a high
price was paid for one of these fishes. It fre-
quents our Cornish and Sussex coasts, and is
in high request, the flesh being firm, white, and well flavoured.

PRIED OYSTERS.

286. Ingredients. — 3 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 1 tablespoonful
of ketchup, a little chopped lemon-peel, i teaspoonful of chopped
parsley.

Mode. — Boil the oysters for 1 minute in their own liquor, and drain
them ; fry them with the butter, ketchup, lemon-peel, and parsley ;
lay them on a dish, and garnish with fried potatoes, toasted sippets,
and parsley. This is a delicious delicacy, and is a favourite Italian
dish.

Time. — 5 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, Is. 9 cl
Seasonable from September to April.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

The Edible Oysteb. — This shell-fish is almost universally distributed near the
shores of seas in all latitudes, and they especially abound on tho coasts of France and
Britain. The coasts most celebrated, in England,
for them, are those of Essex and Suffolk. Here
they are dredged up by means of a net with an
iron scraper at the mouth, that is dragged by a
rope from a boat over the beds. As soou as takeu
from their native beds, they are stored in pits,
formed for the purpose, furnished with sluices,
through which, at the spring tides, the water is
suffered to flow. This water, beiug stagnant, soon
becomes .green in warm weather ; and, in a few
days afterwards, the oysters acquire the same
tinge, which increases their value in the market.

The} do not, however, attain their perfection and the edible oystee.

become fit for sale till the end of six or eight weeks.

Oysters are not considered prop* for the table till they aro about a. year and a half old •
so tliat the brood of one spring are not to be taken for sale, till, at least, the September
twelvemonth afterwards. f

SCALLOPED OYSTERS.

287. Ingredients. — Oysters, say 1 pint, 1 oz. butter, flour, 2 table-
spoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream; pepper and salt
to taste ; bread crumbs, oiled butter.

Mode. Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, heard

114

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

them, and strain the liquor free from grit. Put 1 oz. of butter into a
stewpan ; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up ; add the
stock, cream, and strained liquor, and give one boil. Put in the
oysters and seasoning ; let them gradually heat through, but not boil.
Have ready the scallop-shells buttered ; lay in the oysters, and as
much of the liquid as they will hold ; cover them over with bread
crumbs, over which drop a little oiled butter. Brown them iu the
oven, or before the fire, and serve quickly, and very hot.

Time. — Altogether, j hour.

Average cost for this quantity, 3s. Gel.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

ir.

Prepare the oysters as in the preceding recipe, and put them in a
scallop-shell or saucer, and between each layer sprinkle over a few
bread crumbs, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg ; place small pieces of
butter over, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven. Put sufficient
bread crumbs on the top to make a smooth surface, as the oysters
should not be seen.

Time. — About \ hour. Average cost, 3s. 2d.

Seasonable from September to April.

STEWED OTSTEKS.

288. Ingredients. — 1 pint of oysters, 1 oz. of butter, flour, f pint
•of cream ; cayenne and salt to taste ; 1 blade of pounded mace.

Mode. — Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard
them, and strain the liquor ; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge
in sufficient flour to dry it up, add the oyster-liquor and mace,
and stir it over a sharp fire with a wooden spoon ; when it comes ;
to a boil, add the cream, oysters, and seasoning. Let all simmer for
1 or 2 minutes, but not longer, or the oysters would harden. Serve
■on a hot dish, and garnish with croutons, or toasted sippets of bread. •
A small piece of lemon-peel boiled with the oyster-liquor, and taken
out before the cream is added, will be found an improvement.

Time. — Altogether 1 5 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, 3s. 6 d.

Seasonable from September to April.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

The Oyster attd the Scallop. — The oyster is described as a bivalve sbell-fisli, having
the valves generally unequal. The hinge is without teeth, but furnished with a some-
what oval cavity, and mostly with lateral transverse grooves. From a similarity iu the
structure of the hinge, oysters and scallops have been classified as one tribe ; but they
differ very essentially both in their external appenranco and their habits. Oysters
adhere to rocks, or, as in two or three specipa, to roots of trees on the shore; whuo tho
scallops arc always detached, and usually lurk in tho sand.

MODERN MODE OE SERVING DISHES.

fish.

145

OYSTER PATTIES (an Entree).

289. Ingredients. — 2 dozen oysters, 2 oz. butter, 3 tablespoonfuls
of cream, a little lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace; cayenne to
taste.

Mode. — Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and cut
each one into 3 pieces. Put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in
sufficient flour to dry it up ; add the strained oyster-liquor with the
other ingredients ; put in the oysters, and let them heat gradually,
but not boil fast. Make the patty-cases as directed for lobster patties,
So. 277 : fill with the oyster mixture, and replace the covers.

Time. — 2 minutes for the oysters to simmer in the mixture.

Average cost, exclusive of the patty-cases, Is. 4 d.

Seasonable from September to April.

The Oystee Fishery. — The oyster fishery in Britain is esteemed of so much import-
ance, that it is regulated by a Court of Admiralty. In the month of May, the fishermen
are allowed to take the oysters, in order to separate the spawn from the cultch, the
latter of which is thrown in again, to preserve the bed for the future. After this month,
it is felony to carry away the culteh, and otherwise punishable to take any oyster,
between the shells of which, when closed, a shilling will rattle.

TO KEEP OYSTERS.

290. Put them in a tub, and cover them with salt and water. Let
them remain for 12 hours, when they are to be taken out, and allowed
to stand for another 12 hours without water. If left without water
every alternate 12 hours, they will be much better than if constantly
kept in it. Never put the same water twice to them.

OYSTERS PRIED IN BATTER.

291. Ingredients.— | pint of oysters, 2 eggs, \ pint of milk, suffi-
cient Hour to make the batter ; pepper and salt to taste ; when liked,

little nutmeg ; hot lard.

Mode— Sqald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and lay
diem on a cloth, to drain thoroughly. Break the eggs into a basin,
»iix the flour with them, add the milk gradually, with nutmeg and
Reasoning, and put the oysters in the batter. Make some lard hot in a
leep frying-pan, put in the oysters, one at a time ; when done, take
hem up with a sharp-pointed skewer, and dish them on a napkin.

| hied oysters are frequently used for garnishing boiled fish, and then

few bread crumbs should be added to the flour.

Time.— 0 or 6 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, Is. 10<A

Seasonable from September to April.

Sufficient for 3 persons.

146

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Excellence or tel English Oybteb. — The French n8scrt that (he Engli.-li oyslers,
which are esteemed the best in Europe, wore originally procured from Cancalle Bay,
near St. Malo ; but they assign no proof for this. It is a fact, however, that the oyster-
eaten in ancient Rome were nourished in the channel which then parted the Isle ol
Thanet lrom England, and which has since been tilled up, and converted into meadows.

BOILED PERCH.

292. Ingredients. — \ lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — Seale the fish, take out the gills and clean it thoroughly ;
lay it in boiling water, salted as above, and simmer gently for 10
minutes. If the fish is very large, longer time must he allowed.
Garnish with parsley, and serve with plain melted butter, or Dutch
sauce. Perch do not preserve so good a flavour when stewed as when
dressed in any other way.

Time. — Middling-sized perch, f hour.

Seasonable from September to November.

Note. — Tench may bo boiled the same
way, and served with the same sauces.

The Pebch.— This is one of the best, as it is
one of the most common, of our fresh-water
fishes, and is found in nearly all the lakes and
rivers in Britain and Ireland, as well as through
the whole of Europe within the temperate zone.
It is extremely voracious, and it has the pecu-
liarity of being gregarious, which is contrary to
the nature of all fresh-water fishes of prey. The
best season to angle for it is from the beginning
of May to the middle-of J uly. Large numbers of
this fish are bred in the Hampton Court and
Bushy Park ponds, all of which are well supplied with running water and with plenty of
food; yet they rarely attain a large size. In the Regent's Park they are also very
numerous; but arc seldom heavier than three quarters of a pound.

XHE PE1SCH.

PRIED PERCH.

293. Ingredients. — Egg and bread crumbs, hot lard.

1/ot/e.-— Scale and clean the fish, brush it over with egg, and cover
with bread crumbs. Have ready some boiling lard ; put the fish in,
and fry a nice brown. Serve with plain melted butter or anchovy
sauce.

Time. — 10 minutes.

Seasonable from September to November.

Note. — Fry tench in the same way.

PERCH STEWED WITH WINE.

294. Ingredients. — Equal quantities of stock No. 105 and sherry,
1 bay-leaf, 1 clove of garlic, a small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, salt
to taste; thickening of butter and flour, pepper, grated nutmeg,
s teaspoonful of anchovy sauce. ,

Mode. — Scale the fish and take out the gills, and clean them

FISH.

147

thoroughly ; lay them in a stewpan with sufficient stock and sherry
just to cover them. Put in the bay-leaf, garlic, parsley, cloves, and
salt, and simmer till tender. When done, take out the fish, strain
the liquor, add a thickening of butter and flour, the pepper, nutmeg,
and the anchovy sauce, and stir it over the fire until somewhat
reduced, when pour over the fish, and serve.

Time. — About 20 minutes.

Seasonable from September to November.

BOILED BIKE.

295. Ingredients. — \ lb. of salt to each gallon of water ; a little
vinegar.

Modq — Scale and clean the pike, and fasten the tail in its mouth by
means of a skewer. Lay it in cold water, and when it boils, throw in
the salt and vinegar. The time for boiling depends, of course, on the
size of the fish ; but a middling-sized pike will take about § an hour.
Serve with Dutch or anchovy sauce, and plain melted butter.

Time- — According to size, i to 1 hour. — Average cast. Seldom bought.

Seasonable from September to March.

The Pike. — This fish is, ou account of its voracity, termed the fresh- water shark,
and is abundant in most of the European lakes, especially those of the northern parts.
It grows to an immense size, some attaining to
the measure of eight feet, in Lapland and Russia.

The smaller lakes, of this country and Ireland,
vary in the kinds of iish they produce ; some
affording trout, others pike ; and so on. Where
these happen to be together, however, the trout
soon becomes extinct. “ W ithin a short distance
of Castlebar,” says a writer on sports, “ there
is a small bog-lake called Derreens. Ten years
ago it was celebrated for its numerous well-sized
trouts. Accidentally pike effected a passage into
the lake from the Minola river, and now the
trouts are extinct, or, at least, none of them the pike.

are caught or seen. Previous to the intrusion

of the pikes, half a dozen trouts would be killed in an evening in Derreens, whose
collective weight often amounted to twenty pounds.” As an eating fish, the pike is in
general dry.

♦

BAKED BIKE.

296. Ingredients. — 1 or 2 pike, a nice delicate stuffing (see Force-
meats), 1 egg, bread crumbs, £ lb. butter.

Mode. — Scale the fish, take out the gills, wash, and wipe it thoroughly
dry ; stuff it with forcemeat, sew it up, and fasten the tail in the
mouth by means of a skewer ; brush it over with egg, sprinkle
with bread ermnbs, and baste with butter, before putting it in the
oven, which must be well heated. When the pike is of a nice brown
colour, cover it with buttered paper, as the outside would become too
dry. If 2 are dressed, a little variety may be made by making one of

h 2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

them green with a little chopped parsley mixed with the bread crumbs.
Serve anchovy or Dutch sauce, and plain melted butter with it.

Time. — According to size, 1 hour, more or less.

Average cost. — Seldom bought.

Seasonable from September to March.

Note. — Pike & la genevese may bo stewed in the same manner as salmon
cl la gentvese.

PRIED PLAICE.

297. — Ingredients. — Hot lard, or clarified dripping ; egg and bread
crumbs.

Mode. — This fish is filed in the same manner as soles. Wash and
wipe them thoroughly dry, and let them remain in a cloth until it is
time to dress them. Brush them over with egg, and cover with bread
crumbs mixed with a little flour. Dry of a nice brown in hot dripping
or lard, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. Send them to
table with shrimp-sauce and plain melted butter.

Time. — About 5 minutes. Average cost, 3d. each.

Seasonable from May to November.

Sufficient, 4 plafce for 4 persons.

iVoie.— Plaice may be boiled plain, and served with melted butter. Garnish
with parsley and cut lemon.

STEWED PLAICE.

298. Ingredients.— 4 or 5 plaice, 2 onions, f oz. ground ginger,
1 pint of lemon-juice, 3 pint water, 6 eggs ; cayenne to taste.

Mode. — Cut the fish into pieces about 2 inches wide, salt them, and
let them remain £ hour. Slice and fry the onions a light brown ;
put them in a stewpan, on the top of which put the fish without
washing, and add the ginger, lemon-juice, and water. Cook slowly
for i hour, and do not let the fish boil, or it will break. Take it
out, and when the liquor is cool, add 6 well-beaten eggs ; simmer till
it thickens, when pour over the fish, and serve.

Time.— | hour. Average cost for

this quantity, Is. 9 d.

Seasonable from May to November.
Sufficient for .4 persons ; according
to size.

The Plaice. — This fish is found both in the

Baltic and the Mediterranean, and is also abundant
on the coast of England. It keeps well, and, like
all ground-fish, is very tenacious of life. Its
flesh is inferior to that of the sole, and, as it is
the PLAICF. a low-priced fish, it is generally bought by the

poor. The best brought to the London market
are called Dower .1 plaice, from their being caught iu tho Dowers, or flats, between
Ratlings and Eolkstono.

FISH.

140

TO BOIL PEAWNS OB SHRIMPS.

299. Ingredients. — 5 lb. salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — Prawns should be very red, and have no spawn under the
tail ; much depends on their freshness and the way in which they
are cooked. Throw them into boiling water, salted as above, and keep
them boiling for about 7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done in the
same way 5 but less time must be allowed. It may easily be known
when they are done by their changing colour. Care should be taken
that they are not over-boiled, as they then become tasteless and
indigestible.

Time. — Prawns, about S minutes ; shrimps, about 5 minutes.

Average cost, prawns, 2s. per lb. ; shrimps, 6 d. per pint.

Seasonable all the year.

TO I) BESS PRAWNS.

300. Cover a dish witli a large cup reversed, and over that lay a
small white napkin. Arrange the prawns on it in the form of a
pyramid, and garnish with plenty of parsley.

BOILED SALMON.

301. Ingredients.— 6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water, — sufficient
water to cover the fish.

Mode. — Scale and clean the fish, and, he particular that no blood
is left inside ; lay it in the fish-kettle .with sufficient cold water to
cover it, adding salt in the above proportion. Bring it quickly to a
boil, take off all the scum, and let it simmer gently till the fish is
done, which will be when the meat separates easily from the bone.
Experience alone can teach the cook to fix the time for boiling fish ;
hut it is especially to be remembered, that it should never be under-
dressed, as then nothing is more unwholesome. Neither let it remain
i in the kettle after it is sufficiently cooked, as that would render it
1 insipid, watery, and colourless. Drain it, and if not wanted for a few
; minutes, keep it warm by moans of warm cloths laid over it. Serve
1 on a hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and send lobster
or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter to table with it. A dish of
dressed cucumber usually accompanies this fish.

Time.— 8 minutes to each lb. for large thick salmon ; 6 minutes
for thin fish. Average cost, in full season, Is. 3 d. per lb.

Seasonable from April to August.

Sufficient, \ lb., or rather less, for each person.

*50 MODERN nO'J3EnOLD COOKERY.

Note.-Cnt lemon should bo put on the tablo with this fish ; and a little of
thojuico squeezed over it is considered by many persons a most agreeable
addition. Boiled peas are also, by some connoisseurs, considered especially-
adapted to bo served with salmon.

To Choose Salmon. — To bo good, the belly should be firm and thick, which
may readily be ascertained by feeling it with the thumb and finger. The cir-
cumstance of this fish having red gills, though given as a standing rule in
most cookery-books, as a sign of its goodness, is not at all to be relied on, as
this quality can bo easily given them by art.

SAX. MOW AED CAPER SAUCE.

302. Ingredients. — 2 slices of salmon, ^lb. butter, 5 tcaspoonful of
chopped parsley, 1 shalot ; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.

Mode— Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place pieces of butter /
over it, and add the other ingredients, rubbing a little of the seasoning
into the fish ; baste it frequently ; when done, take it out and drain
for a minute or two ; lay it in a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and
serve. Salmon dressed in this way, with tomato sauce, is very
delicious.

Time. — About f hour. Average cost, Is. 3d. per lb.

Seasonable from April to August.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Tee Migbatoby TTaeits or tee Salmon. — The in9tinct with which the srdmon
revisits its native river, is one of the most enrious circumstances in its natural
history. As the swallow returns annually to its nest, so it returns to the same spot to
deposit its ova. This fact would seem to have been repeatedly proved. M. De Lando
fastened a copper ring round a salmon's tail, and found that, for three successive seasons,
it returned to the same place. Dr. Bloch states that gold and silver rings' have been
attached liy- eastern princes to salmon, to prove that a communication existed between
the Persian Gulf and the Caspian and Northern Seas, and that tho experiment
succeeded.

•

COLLARED SALMON.

303. Ingredients. — A piece of salmon, say 3 lbs., a high seasoning
of salt, pounded mace, and pepper ; water and vinegar, 3 bay-leaves.

Mode.— Split the fish ; scale, hone, and wash it thoroughly clean ;
wipe it, and rub in the seasoning inside and out ; roll it up, and hind
firmly ; lay it in a kettle, cover it with vinegar and water (j vinegar,
in proportion to the water) ; add the hay-leaves and a good seasoning
of salt and whole pepper, and simmer till done, Do not remove the
lid. Serve with melted hutter or anchovy sauce. For preserving
the collared fish, boil up the liquor in which it was cooked, and
add a little more vinegar. Pour over when cold.

Time. — % hour, or rather more.

Habitat of thh Salmon. — The salmon is styled by Walton flic “king of fresh-water
flab,*’ and i3 found distributed over tho north of Europe and Asia, from Britain to

FISH.

151

■Kainschatfca, but is never found in warm latitudes, nor has it ever been oanght even so
far south as the Mediterranean. It lives in fresh as well as m salt waters, depositing its
spawn ill the former, hundreds of miles from the mouths of some of those riv ers to which
it1 has been known to resort. In 1859, great efforts were made to introduce tins fish mto
tlio Australian colonies ; and it is believed that the attempt, alter many difficulties, which
were very skilfully overcome, has been successful.

CRIMPED SALMON.

304. Salmon is frequently dressed in tliis way at many fashionable
tables, but must be very fresh, and cut into slices 2 or 3 inches thick.
Lay these in cold salt and water for 1 hour ; have ready some boiling
water, salted, as in recipe No. 301, and well skimmed ; put in
the fish, and simmer gently for j hour, or rather more ; should it he
very thick, garnish the same as boiled salmon, and serve with the
same sauces.

Time. — ^ hour, more or less, accord-
ing to size.

Note.— Never use vinegar with salmon, as
it spoils the taste and colour of the fish.

The Salmon Teibe.— This is the Abdominal
iish, forming the fourth of the orders of Linmeus.

They are distinguished from other fishes by having
two dorsal fins, of which the hindmost is fleshy
and without rays. They have teeth both on
the tongue and in the jaws, whilst the body is covered with round and minutely striated
scales.

CURRIED SALMON.

305. Ingredients. — Any remains of boiled salmon, % pint of strong
or medium stock (No. 105), 1 onion, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder,
1 teaspoonful of Harvey’s sauce, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 02.
of butter, the juice of § lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.

Mode. — Cut up the onion? into small pieces, and fry them of a pale
brown in the butter ; add all the ingredients but the salmon, and
simmer gently till the onion is tender, occasionally stirring the
contents ; ' cut the salmon into small square pieces, carefully take
away all skin and bone, lay it in the stewpan, and let it gradually
heat through ; but do not allow it to boil long.

Time.— I hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold fish, 9 ci.

Gbowtk of the Salmon. — At the latter cud of the year — some as soon as November —
salmon begin to press up the rivers as far as they can reach, in order to deposit their spawn,
which they do in the sand or gravel, about eighteen inches deep. Here it lies buried till
the spring, when, about the latter end of March, it begins to exclude tho young, which
gradually increase to four or live inches in length, and aro then termed smelts or sraouts.
About the beginning of May, tho river seems lobe alive with them, and there is no forming
au idea of their numbers without having seen them. A seasonable flood, however, oomes,
and hurries them to the “great deep;” whence, about the middle of June, they com-
mence their return to tho river again. 13y this time they are twelvo orsixteen inches long,
and progressively increase, both in number and size, till about the end of July, when

152

MODERN nOUSEHOI.D COOKER V.

they have become large enough to be denominated ffrilxe. Karly in August they become
lower in numbers, but of greater size, having advanced to a weight of from six to nine
pounds. This rapidity of growth appears surprising, and realizes the remark of Walton,
that “ tho salmlet becomes a salmon in us short a time as a gosling becomes a goose ’*
.Recent writers have, however, thrown considerable doubts on this quick growth of tlio
salmor.

SALMON CUTLETS.

306. Cut the slices 1 inch thick, and season them with pepper and
salt ; butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece,
with their ends twisted ; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve
with anchovy or caper sauce. When higher seasoning is required,
add a few chopped herbs and a little spice.

Time— 5 to 10 minutes.

SALMON A LA GENEVESE.

307. Ingredients. — 2 slices of salmon, 2 chopped shalots, a little
parsley, a small hunch of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 carrots, pounded mace,
pepper and salt to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of Madeira, § pint of white
stock (No. 107), thickening of butter and flour, 1 teaspoonful of
essence of anchovies, the juice of 1 lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.

Mode. — Hub the bottom of a stewpan over with butter, and put in
the shalots, herbs, bay-leaves, carrots, mace, and seasoning ; stir
them for 10 minutes over a clear fire, and add the Madeira or sherry ;
simmer gently for i hour, and strain through a sieve over the fish,
which stew in this gravy. As soon as the fish is sufficiently cooked,
take away all the liquor, except a little to keep the salmon moist, and
put it into another stewpan ; add the stock, thicken with butter and
flour, and put in the anchovies, lemon-juice, cayenne, and salt ; lay
the salmon on a hot dish, pour over it part of the sauce, and serve
the remainder in a tureen.

t vt

Time. — 1 j hour. Average cost for this quantity, 3s. C d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

PICKLED SALMON.

308. Ingredients. — Salmon, 3 oz. of whole pepper, £ oz. of whole
allspice, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal quantities of vinegar
and the liquor in which the fish was boiled.

Mode. — After the fish comes from table, lay it in a nice dish with a
cover to it, as it should he excluded from the air, and take away the
bone; boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients for
10 minutes, and let it stand to get cold ; pour it over the salmon, and
in 12 hours this will be lit for the table.

Time, 10 minutes.

FISH.

153

To Cuke Salmon. — This process consists in splitting the fish, rubbing it with salt,
and then putting it into pickle in tubs provided for the purpose. Here it is kept
for about six weeks, when it is taken out, pressed and packed in casks, with layers of
salt.

POTTED SALMON'.

309. Ingredients. — Salmon ; pounded mace, cloves, and pepper to
taste ; 3 bay-leaves, £ lb. butter.

Mode. — Skin the salmon, and clean it thoroughly by wiping with a
cloth (water would spoil it) ; cut it into square pieces, which rub with
salt ; let them remain till thoroughly drained, then lay them in a
dish with the other ingredients, and bake. When quite done, drain
them from the gravy, press into pots for use, and, when cold, pour
over it clarified butter.

Time. — § hom’.

As Aversion in the Salmon. — The salmon is said to have an aversion to anything
red ; hence, fishermen engaged in catching it do not wear jackets or caps of that colour.
Pontoppidan also says, that it has an abhorrence of carrion, and if any happens to be
thrown into the places it haunts, it immediately forsakes them. The remedy adopted
for this in Norway, is to throw into the polluted water a lighted torch. As food, salmon,
when in perfection, is one of the most delicious and nutritive of our fish.

BAKED SEA-BREAM.

310. Ingredients. — 1 bream. Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper,
and cayenne ; 4 lb. of butter.

Mode. — Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and
wipe away all moisture with a nice dry cloth. Season it inside
and out with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish.
Place the butter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather
more than ? an hour. To stuff this fish before baking, will be found a
great improvement.

Time. — Rather more than § an hour.

Seasonable in summer.

Note. — Tfiis fish may be broiled over a
nice clear fire, and served with a good
brown gravy or white sauce, or it may bo
stewed in wine.

The Sea-B ream.— This is an abundant fish in
Cornwall, and it is frequently found in the fish-

marketof Hustings during the summer months, the sea-dream.

but it is not m much esteem.

MR. YARRKLL’s RECIPE.

154

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

TO DRE3S SHAD.

311. Ingredients— 1 shad, oil, pepper, and salt.

Mode. — Scale, empty and wash the lish carefully, and make two or
three incisions across the hack. Season it with pepper and salt, and
let it remain in oil for 3 hour. Broil it on both sides over a clear fire,

and serve with caper sauce. This fish
is much esteemed by the French, and
by them is considered excellent.

Time. — Nearly 1 hour.

Average cost. — Seldom bought.
Seasonable from April to J une.

the SHAD. The Shad. — This is a salt-water fish, but is

held in little esteem. It enters our rivers to
spawn in May, and great numbers of them are taken opposite the Isle of Dogs, in the
Thames.

POTTED SHRIMPS.

312. Ingredients. — 1 pint of shelled shrimps, \ lb. of fresh butter,
1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne to taste; when liked, a little
nutmeg-.

Mode. — Have ready a pint of picked shrimps, and put them, with
the other ingredients, into a stewpan ; let them heat gradually in the
butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small pots, and when cold,
cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air.

Time. — 5 hour to soak in the butter.

Average cost for this quantity, Is. 3d.

' BUTTERED PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS.

313. Ingredients. — 1 pint of picked prawns or shrimps, f pint of
stock No. 104, thickening of butter and flour ; salt, cayenne, and
nutmeg to taste.

Mode. — Pick the prawdsor shrimps, and put them in a stewpan with
the stock ; add a thickening of butter and flour ; season, and simmer

gently for 3 minutes. Serve on a dish
garnished with fried bread or toasted
sippets. Cream sauce may be substi-
tuted for the gravy.

Time. — 3 minutes.

Average cost for this quantity, Is. Ad.

The Siihimp. — This shell-fish is smaller than
tlio prawn, and is greatly relished in London as
a delicacy. Jt inhabits most of the sandy shores of Europe, and the Isleol Wight is
especially famous for them.

Fisa.

155

BOILED SKATE.

314. Ingredients.— \ lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

3Iode. — Cleanse and skin the skate, lay it in a fish-kettle, with
sufficient water to cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it
simmer very gently till done ; then dish it on a hot napkin, and serve
with shrimp, lobster, or caper sauce.

Time. — According to size, from -1 to 1 hour. Average cost, id. per lb.

Seasonable from August to April.

C BIMPED SKATE.

315. Ingredients. — § lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — Clean, skin, and cut the fish into slices, which roll and
tie round with string. Have ready some water highly salted,
put in the fish, and boil till it is done. Drain well, remove the
string, dish on a hot napkin, and serve with the same sauces as
above. Skate should never be eaten out of season, as it is liable to
produce diarrhoea and other diseases. It may be dished without a
napkin, and the sauce poured over.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average cost , id. per lb.

Seasonable from August to April.

To choose Skate.— This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth,
and thickness, and should havPa creamy appearance. When crimped, it
should not be kept longer than a day or two,
as all kinds of crimped fish soon become sour.

The Skate. — This is one of the ray tribe, and
is extremely abundant and cheap in the fishing
towns of England. The flesh is white, thick, and
nourishing; but, we suppose, from its being so
plentiful, it is esteemed less than it ought to be
on account of its nutritive properties, and the
ease with which it is digested.. It is much im-
proved by crimping ; in which state it is usually
sold in London. The Thornback differs from the
true skate by.having large spines in its back, of
which the other is destitute. It is taken in great THomtHACK skate

abundance during the spring and summer months,

but its flesh is not so good as it is in November. It is, in regard to quality, inferior
to that of the true skate.

SKATE WITH CAPEH, SAUCE (a la Erancaiso)

3'6. Ingredients. — 2 or 3 slices of skate, § pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of
lisalt, 4 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley,
2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, sufficient water to cover the fish.

Mode. Put in a fish-kettle all the above ingredients, and simmer
ttke skate in them till tender. IV hen it is done, skin it neatly, antf

150

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

pour over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling. Drain it,
put it on a hot dish, pour over it caper sauce, and send some of the
latter to table in a tureen.

Time. — h hour. Average cost, id. per lb.

Seasonable from August to April.

Note. — Skate may also be served with onion sauce, or parsley and butter.

SMALL SKATE EKIED.

317* Ingredients. — Skate, sufficient vinegar to cover them, salt
and pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, the juice
of h lemon, hot dripping.

Mode. — Cleanse the skate, lay them in a dish, with sufficient vinegar
to cover them; add the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, and lemon-juice,
and let the fish remain in this pickle for Is hour. Then drain them
well, flour them, and fry of a nice brown, in hot dripping. They may
be served either with or without sauce. Skate is not good if dressed
too fresh, unless it is crimped ; it should, therefore, be kept for a day,
but not long enough to produce a disagreeable smell.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, id. per lb.

Seasonable from August to April.

Othee species or Skate. — Besides the true skate, there are several other species
found in our seas. These are known as the white skate, the long-nosed skate, and the
Homelyn ray, which are of inferior quality, though often crimped, and sold for true
skate.

TO BAKE SMELTS.

318. Ingredients. — 12 smelts, bread crumbs, 5 lb. of fresh butter,
2 blades of pounded mace ; salt and cayenne to taste.

Mode. — Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange
them nicely in a flat baking-dish. Cover them with fine bread crumbs,
and place little pieces of butter all over them. Season and bake foi-
ls minutes. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and
garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon.

Time. — £ hour. Average cost, 2s. per dozen.

Seasonable from October to May.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

To Choose Smelts. — When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance,
and when alive, their backs are of a dark brown shade, which, after death,
fades to a light fawn. . They ought to have a refreshing fragrance, resembling
that of a cucumber.

The Odoue or the Smelt. — This peculiarity in the smelt lias been compared, by
come, to the fragrance of a cucumber, and by others, to that of a violet. It is a very
elegant fish, and formerly abounded in the Thames. The Aiharine, or sand smelt, is
sometimes sold for the true one ; but it is an inferior fish, being drier in the quality of its
flesh. On the south coast of England, where the true smelt is rare, it is plentiful.

FI3H.

157

TO FRY SMELTS.

319. Ingredients.— Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour; boiling
lard.

Mode. — Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than
is necessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip
them in egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread crumbs, and put
them into boiling lard. Fry of a nice pale brown, and be careful not
to take off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be
spoiled. Dry them before the fire on a drainer, and serve with plain
melted butter. This fish is often used
as a garnishing.

Time. — 5 minutes.

Average cost, 2s. per dozen.

Seasonable from October to May.

The Sheet. — TI119 is a delicate little fish, and
is in high esteem. IVIr. Yarrell asserts that the tee ghelt.

true smelt is entirely confined to the western and

eastern coasts of Britain. It very rarely ventures far from the shore, and is plentiful
in November, December, and January.

BAKED SOLES.

320. Ingredients.— 2 soles, \ lb. of butter, egg, and bread crumbs,
minced parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon -juice; cayenne and salt to taste.

Mode. — Clean, skin, and well wash the fish, and dry them
thoroughly in a cloth. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with
bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley, lay them in a
large flat baking-dish, white side uppermost ; or if it will not hold
the two soles, they may each be laid on a dish by itself ; but they
4 must not be put one on the top of the other. Melt the butter, and
pour it over the whole, and bake for 20 minutes. Take a portion of the
gravy that flows from the fish, add the wine, lemon-juice, and season-
ing, give it one boil, skim, pour it under the fish, and serve.

Time— 20 minutes. Average cost, Is. to 2s. per pair.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

To choose Soles. — -This fish should be
both thick and firm. If tho skin is
difficult to be taken off, and the flesh looks
grey, it is good.

The Sole. — This ranks next to the turbot in

point of excellence, among our flat fish. It is — f

abundant on the British coa9ts, but those of the the Sole.

western shores are much superior in sizo to

those taken on the northern. The finest are caught in Torbay, arid frequently weigh 9 or
10 lbs. per pair. Its flesh being firm, white, and delicate, is greatly esteemed. °

158

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOEERT.

BOILED SOLES.

321. Ingredients.— j lb. salt to each gallon of water.

Mode.— Cleanse and wash the lish carefully, cut off the fins, but do
not skin it. Lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to
cover it, salted in the above proportion. Let it gradually come to a
boil, and keep it simmering for a few minutes, according to the size
of the fish. Dish it on a hot napkin after well draining it, and garnish
with parsley and cut lemon. Shrimp, or lobster sauce, and plain
melted butter, are usually sent to table with this dish.

Time. — After the water boils, 7 minutes for a middling-sized sole.

Average cost, Is. to 2s. per pair.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient, — 1 middling-sized sole for 2 persons.

SOLE OB, COD PIE.

322. Ingredients. — The remains of cold boiled sole or cod, seasoning
to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded maee, 1 dozen oysters to each lb.
of fish, 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock, I teacupful of cream thickened
with flour, puff paste.

Mode. — Clear the fish from the bones, lay it in a pie-dish, and be-
tween each layer put a few oysters and a little seasoning ; add the
stock, and, when liked, a small quantity of butter ; cover with puff
paste, and bake for \ hour. Boil the cream with sufficient flour to
thicken it ; pour in the pie, and serve.

Time. — -1 hour. Average cost for this quantity, 10 A

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

SOLES WITH CEBA11 SAUCE.

323. Ingredients. — 2 soles; salt, cayepne, and pounded macc to
taste ; the juice of £ lemon, salt and water, 4 pint of cream.

Mode. — Skin, wash, and fillet the soles, and divide each fillet in
2 pieces ; lay them in cold salt and water, which bring gradually to a
boil. When the water boils, take out the lish, lay it in a delicately clean
stewpan, and cover with the cream. Add the seasoning, simmer very
gently for ten minutes, and, just before serving, put in the lemon-
juice. The fillets may be rolled, and secured by means of a skewer ;
but this is not so economical a way of dressing them, as double the
quantity of cream is required.

Time. — 10 minutes in the cream.

srsn.

159

Average cost, from Is. to 2s. per pair. , Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

This will be found a most delicate and delicious dish.

The- Sole a favourite with the Ahoieht Greeks.— This fish was much smigbt
after by the ancient Greeks on account of its light and nourishing qualities. The brill, the
flounder, the diamond and Dutch plaice, which, with the sole, were known under the
general name of pus-seres, were all equally esteemed, and had generally the same qualities
attributed to them.

FILLETED SOLES A L’lTALIENNE.

324. Ingredients. — 2 soles ; salt, pepper, and grated -nutmeg to
taste ; egg and bread crumbs, butter, the juice of 1 lemon.

Mode. — Skin, and carefully wash the soles, separate the meat from
the bone, and divide each fillet in two pieces. Brush them over with
white of egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and seasoning, and put
them in a baking-dish. Place small pieces of butter over the whole,
and bake for h hour. When they are nearly done, squeeze the juice
of a lemon over them, and serve on a dish, with Italian sauce ( see
Sauces) poured over.

Time.—i hour. Average cost, from Is. to 2s. per pair..

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Whiting may be dressed in the same manner, and will be found
very delicious.

The Flavour of the Sole. — This, as a matter of course, greatly depends on tho
nature of the ground and bait upon which the animal feeds. Its natural food are small
crabs and shell-fish. Its colour also depends on the colour of the ground where it feeds ;
for if this be white, then the sole is called the white, or lemon sole ; but if tho bottom be
muddy, then it is called the black sole. Small-sized soles, caught in shallow water on
the coasts, are the best in flavour.

ERICAS SEED SOLES.

325. Ingredients. — 2 middling-sized soles, 1 small one, & tea-
spoonful of chopped lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a
little grated bread ; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste ; I egg, 2 oz.
butter, I pint of good gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, cayenne
and lemon -juice to taste.

Mode. — Fry the soles of a nice brown, as directed in recipe No. 327,
and drain them well from fat. Take all the meat from the small
sole, chop it fine, and mix with it the lemon-peel, parsley, bread, and
seasoning ; work altogether, witli the yolk of an egg and the butter ;
make this into small balls, and fry them. Thicken the gravy with
a dessert-spoonful of flour, add the port wine, cayenne, and lemon-

ICO

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

juice; lay in the 2 soles and balls; let them simmer gently for
5 minutes ; serve hot, and garnish with cut lemon.

Time. — 10 minutes to fry the soles.

Average cost for this quantity, 3s.

Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 4 or o persons.

How Soles aee caught. — The instrument usually employed is a trawl net, which is
shaped like a pocket, of from sixty to eighty feet long, and open at the mouth from
thirty-two to forty feet, and three deep. This is dragged along the ground by the
vessel, and on the art of the fisherman in its employment, in a great measure depends the
quality of the fish ho catches. If, for example, he drugs the net too quickly, all that
aro caught are swept rapidly to the end of the net, where they arc smothered, and
sometimes destroyed. A medium has to be observed, in order that as few as possible
escape being caught in the net, and as many as possible preserved alive in it.

FRIED FILLETED SOLES.

326. Soles for filleting should be large, as the tlesh can be more easily
separated from the bones, and there is less waste. Skin and'wash
the fish, and raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide it
into nice handsome pieces. The more usual way is to roll the fillets,
after dividing each one in two pieces, and either hind them round
with twine, or run a small skewer through them. Brush over with
egg, and cover with bread crumbs ; fry them as directed in the fore-
going recipe, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon. When a
pretty dish is desired, this is by far the most elegaut mode of dressing
soles, as they look much better than when fried whole. (See Coloured
Plate A.) Instead of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square
pieces, and arranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish.

Time. — About 10 minutes. Average cost, from Is. to 2s. per pair.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient— 2 large soles for 6 persons.

FRIED SOLES.

327. Ingredients. — 2 middling-sized soles, hot lard or clarified
drippipg, egg, and bread crumbs.

Mode. — Skin and carefully wash the soles, and cut off the fins,
wipe them very dry, and let them remain in the cloth until it is time
to dress them. Have ready some fine bread crumbs and beaten egg ;
dredge the soles with a little flour, brush them over with egg, and
cover with bread crumbs. Put them in a deep pan, with plenty
of clarified dripping or lard (when the expense is not objected to, oil
is still better) heated, so that it may neither scorch the fish nor make
them sodden. When they are sufficiently cooked on one side, turn
them carefully, and brown them on the other : they may be considered
ready when a thick smoke rises. Lift them out carefully, and lay

FISH.

101

them before the fire on a reversed sieve and soft paper, to absorb the
fat. Particular attention should be paid to this, as nothing is more
disagreeable than greasy fish : this may be always avoided by dress-
ing them in good time, and allowing a few minutes for them to get
thoroughly crisp, and free from greasy moisture. Dish them on a
hot napkin, garnish with cut lemon and fried parsley, and send them
to table with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter.

Time— 10 minutes for large soles ; less time for small ones.

Average cost, from Is. to 2s. per pair.

Seasonable at any time. *

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

SOLES WITH MUSHROOMS.

328. Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of water, 1 oz. butter,
1 oz. salt, a little lemon-juice, 2 middling-sized soles.

Mode. — Cleanse the soles, but do not skin them, and lay them in a
fish-kettle, with the milk, water, butter, salt, and lemon-juice. Bring
them gradually to boil, and let them simmer very gently till done,
which will be in about 7 minutes. Take them up, drain them well on
a cloth, put them on a hot dish, and pour over them a good mushroom
1 sauce. (See Sauces.)

Time. — After the water boils, 7 minutes.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

SPRATS.

329. Sprats should be cooked very fresh, which can he ascertained by
their bright and sparkling eyes. Wipe them dry ; fasten them in rows
by a skewer run through the eyes ; dredge with flour, and broil them
on a gridiron over a nice clear fire. The gridiron should he rubbed
with suet. Serve very hot.

Time. — 3 or 4 minutes. Average cost, id. per lb.

Seasonable from November to March.

To Choose Sprats. — Choose these from their silvery appearance, as the
brighter they are, so are they the fresher.

SPRATS FRIED IN BATTER.

33°. Ingredients. — 2 eggs, flour, bread crumbs ; seasoning of salt
and pepper to taste.

Mode. — Wipe the sprats, and dip them in a hatter made of the above
ingredients. Fry of a nice brown, serve very hot, and garnish with
fried parsley.

Sprats may be baked like herrings. (See No. 2G8.)

162

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

DRIED SPRATS.

331. Dried sprats should he put into a basin, and boiling water
poured over them ; they may then he skinned and served, and this
will he found a much better way than boiling them.

The Sprat. — This migratory fish is rarely found longer than four or five inches, and

visits the shores of Britain after the herring and
other kinds of fish have taken their departure
from them. On the coasts of Suffolk, Essex, and
Kent, they are very abundant, and from 400 to
500 boats are employed in catching them during
the winter season. Besides plentifully supplying
THE SPRAT. the London market, they are frequently sold at

sixpence a bushel to farmere for manuring pur-
poses. They enter the Thames about the beginning of November, and leave it in March.
At Yarmouth and Gravesend they are cured like red herrings.

BAKED STURGEON.

332. Ingredients. — 1 small sturgeon, salt and pepper to taste,
1 small bunch of herbs, the juice of i lemon, 3 lb. of butter, 1 pint of
white wine.

Mode. — Cleanse the fish thoroughly, skin it, and split it along the
belly without separating it ; have ready a large baking-dish, in which
lay the fish, sprinkle over the seasoning and herbs very finely minced,
and moisten it with the lemon-juice and wine. Place the butter in
small pieces over the whole of the fish, put it in the oven, and baste
frequently ; brown it nicely, and serve with its own gravy.

Time. — Nearly 1 hour. Average cost, Is. to Is. 6 d. per lb.

Seasonable from August to March.

The Sturgeon. — This fish eommenees the sixth of the Linntcan order, and all the
species are large, seldom measuring, when lull-grown, less than three or four feet in
length. Its flesh is reckoned extremely delicious, and, in the time of the emperor

Severn? , was so highly valued by the ancients,
that it was brought to table by servants crowned
with coronets, and preceded by a band of music.
It is an inhabitant of the Baltic, the Mediter-
ranean, the Caspian, and the Black Sea, and of
the Danube, the Volga, the Don, and other large
rivers. It is abundant in the rivers of North
A merica, and is occasionally taken in the Thames,
as well as in the Eske and the Eden. It is one
of those fishes considered as royal property. It
is from its roe that caviare, a favourite food of
the Russians, is prepared. Its flesh is delicate,
firm, nnd white, but is rare in the London market, where it sells for 1«. or Is. 6</. per lb.

The Sterlet is a smaller species of sturgeon, found in the Caspian Sea and some
Russian rivers. It also is greatly prized on account of the delicacy of its flesh.

the sturgeon.

ROAST STURGEON.

333. Ingredients. — Veal stuffing, buttered paper, the tail-end of a
sturgeon.

Mode. — Cleanse the fish, bone and Bkin it; make a nice veal stuffing

1’ISH.

1G3

{sec Forcemeats), and till it with the part where the bones came from ;
roll it in buttered paper, bind it up firmly with tape, like a fillet
of veal, and roast it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Serve with
good brown gravy, or plain melted butter.

Time. — About 1 hour. Average cost, Is. to Is. 6 d. per lb.

Seasonable from August to March.

Note. — Sturgeon may be plain-boiled, and served with Dutch sauce. The
fish is very firm, and requires long boiling.

Estimate op the Stcbgeon by the Ancients. — By the ancients, the flesh of this
fish was compared to the ambrosia of the immortals. The poet Martial passes a high
eulogium upon it, and assigns it a place on the luxurious tables of the Palatine Mount.
If we may credit a modern traveller in China, the people of that country generally
entirely abstain from it, and the sovereign of the Celestial Empire coniines it to his own
kitchen, or dispenses it to only a few of his greatest favourites..

MATELOT OF TENCH.

334. Ingredients. — l pint of stock Ho. 105, § pint of port wine,
1 dozen button onions, a few mushrooms, a faggot of herbs, 2 blades
of mace, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, thyme,
a shalot, 2 anchovies, 1 teacupful of stock Ho. 105, Hour, 1 dozen
oysters, the juice of f lemon ; the number of tench, according to size.

- Mode. — Scale and clean the tench, cut them into pieces? and lay
them in a stewpau ; add the stock, wine, onions, mushrooms, herbs,
tnd maee, and simmer gently for l hour. Put into another stewpan all
he remaining ingredients but the oysters and lemon-juice, and boil
slowly for 10 minutes, when add the strained liquor from the tench,
md keep stirring it over the fire until somewhat reduced. Hub it
dirough a sieve, pour it over the tench with the oysters, which must
oe previously scalded in their own liquor, squeeze in the lemon-juice,
.nd serve. Garnish with croutons.

Time. — f hour.

Seasonable from October to June.

The Tench. — Tliis fish is generally found in
ml and weedy Waters, and in such places as are
ell supplied with rushes. They Ihrivo best in
anding waters, and are more numerous iu pools
nd ponds than in rivers. Those taken iu the
■tter, however, are preferable for the table.. It
oes not often exceed four or five pounds in
eight, and is in England esteemed as a delicious
na wholesome food. As, however, they are
b me times found in waters where the mud is
iccessively fetid, their flavour, if cooked im-
mediately on being caught, is often very unpleasant; hut if they aro transferred into-
oar water, they soon recover from the obnoxious taint.

TENCH STEWED WITH WINE.

335. Ingredients. — } pint of stock Ho. 105, l pint of Madeira or

u 2

THE TENCH.

161

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

sherry, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, thickening of butter and
flour.

Mode. — Clean and crimp the tench ; carefully lay it in a stewpan
with the stock, wine, salt and pepper, and bay-leaf ; let it stew gently
for i hour ; then take it out, put it on a dish, and keep hot. Strain
the liquor, and thicken it with butter and flour kneaded together, and
stew for 5 minutes. If not perfectly smooth, squeeze it through a
tammy, add a yery little cayenne, and pour oyer the fish. Garnish
with balls of veal forcemeat.

Time. — Rather more than i hour.

Seasonable from October to June.

A singular quality in THE Tknch. — It is said that the tench is possessed of such
healing properties among the finny tribes, that even the voracious pike spares it on this
account.

The pike, fell tyrant of the liquid plain,

With ravenous waste devours his fellow train ;

Yet howsoe'er with raging famine pined,

The tench he spares, a medicinal kind ;

For when by wounds distress’d, or sore disease.

He courts the salutary fish for ease ;

Close to his scales the land physician glides,

And sweats a healing balsam from his sides.

In our estjpnation, however, this self-denial in the pike may be attributed to a less
poetical cause; namely, from the mud-loving disposition of the tench, it is enabled
keep itself so completely concealed at the bottom of its aqueous haunts, that it remains
secure from the attacks of its predatory neighbour.

STEWED TROUT.

336. Ingredients. — 2 middling-sized trout, i onion cut in tbin
slices, u little parsley, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little
thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of medium stock No. 103,
1 glass of port wine, thickening of butter and flour.

Mode . — ~W ash the fish very clean, and wipe it quite dry. Lay it in
a stewpan, with all the ingredients but the butter and flour, and
simmer gently for \ hour, or rather more, should not the fish be quite
done. Take it out, strain the gravy, add the thickening, and stir it
ovei; a sharp fire for 5 minutes ; pour it over the trout, and serve.

Time. — According to size, A hour or more.

Average cost. — Seldom bought.

Seasonable from May to September, and fatter from the middle to
the end of August than at any other time.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Trout may be served with anchovy or caper sauce, baked in buttered
paper, or fried whole like smelts. Trout dressed a la Genevese is
extremely delicate ; for this proceed the same as with salmon, No. 307.

FISH.

1G5

The Trout.— This fish, though esteemed by the moderns for its delicacy, was little
regarded by the ancients. A1 though it abounded
I in the lakes of the Roman empire, it is generally-
mentioned by writers only on account of the
beauty of its colours. About the end of Sep-
tember, they quit the deep water to which they
had retired during the hot weather, for the
; purpose of spawning. This they always do on a
gravelly bottom, or where gravel and sand are
mixed among stones, towards the end or by the
sides of streams. At this period they become
black about the head and body, and become soft
and unwholesome. They are never good when
they are large with roe; but there are in all

trout rivers some barren female fish, which the trout.

continue good throughout the winter. In the

common trout, the stomach is uncommonly strong and muscular, shell-fish forming a
portion of the food of the animal ; and it takes into its stomach gravel or small stones in
order to assist in comminuting it.

BOILED TURBOT.

33". Ingredients. — 6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — Choose a middling-sized turbot ; for they are invariably the
most valuable : if very large, the meat will be tough and thready.
Three or four hours before dressing, soak the fish in salt and water to
take off the slime ; then thoroughly cleanse it, and with a knife make an
incision down the middle of the hack, to prevent the skin of the belly
from cracking. Rub it over with lemon, and he particular not to cut off
the fins. Lay the fish in a very clean turbot-kettle, with sufficient
cold water to cover it, and salt in the above proportion. Let it
gradually come to a boil, and skim very carefully ; keep it gently
simmering, and on no account let it boil fast, as the fish would have
a very unsightly appearance. When the meat separates easily from
the hone, it is done ; then take it out, let it drain well, and dish it on a
hot napkin. Rub a little lobster spawn through a sieve, sprinkle it
over the fish, and garnish with tufts of parsley and cut lemon.
Lobster or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to
table with it. ( See Coloured Plate E.)

Time. — After the water boils, about § hour for a large turbot ;
middling size, about 20 minutes.

Average cost, — large turbot, from 10s. to 12s. ; middling size, from
! 12s. to 15s.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient, 1 middling- sized turbot for 8 persons.

Note. — An amusing anecdote is relatod, by Miss Edgeworth, of a bishop,
i who, descending to his kitchen to superintend the dressing of a turbot, and
discovering that his cook had stupidly cut off the fins, immediately commenced
' sewing them on again with his own episcopal fingers. This dignitary knew
J the value of a turbot’s gelatinous appendages.

1GG

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

GARNISH FOR TURBOT OR OTHER LARGE FISH.

338. Take the crumb of a stale loaf, cut it into small pyramids with
flattops, and in the top of each pyramid, put rather more than a table-
spoonful of white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Over this, sprinkle
finely-chopped parsley and fine raspings of a dark colour. ’ Arrange
these on the napkin round the fish, one green and one brown alter-
nately.

1 o Choose Turbot. Soe that it is thick, and of a yellowish white ; for if
of a bluish tint, it is not good.

Tire Tur. eot.— This is the most esteemed of all om- flat fish. The northern ports of

<,’e ^nplish coast, and some places off the coast
oi Holland, produce turbot ni great abundance,
and m greater excellence than any other parts
01 the world. The London market is chiefly
supplied by Dutch fishermen, who bring to it
nearly 90,000 a year. The flesh is firm, white,
rich, and gelatinous, and is the better for being
kept a day or two previous to cooking it. In
many parts of t lie country, turbot ancl halibut
are indiscriminately sold for each other. They
are, however, perfectly distinct ; the upper parts
of the former being marked with large, unequal,
the turbot. ;md obtuse tubercles, while those of the other

ate quite smooth, and covered with oblong soft
scales, which firmly adhere to the body.

Fish-cuttles are made in an oblong form,
and have two handles, with a movable bottom,
pierced fuU of holes, on which the fish is laid,
and on which it may be lifted from the water,
by means of two long bandies attached ta each
side of the movable bottom. This is to pre-
vent the liability of breaking the fish, as it
would necessarily be if it were cooked in a com-
mon saucepan. In the list of Messrs. Richard
and John Slack (sec 71), the price of t wo of these is set down at 10s. The turbot-kettle,
as will lie seen by our cut, is made differently from ordinary fish-kettles, it being less
deep, whilst it_ is wider, and more pointed at the sides ; thus exactly answering to the
shape of the fish which it is intended should be boiled in it. It may be obtained from
t he same manufacturers, and its price is £1.

TURBOT-KETTLE.

BAKED FILLETS OF TURBOT.

339. Ingredients. — Tlie remains of cold turbot, lobster sauce left
from the preceding day, egg, and bread crumbs ; cayenne and salt to
taste ; minced parsley, nutmeg, lemon-juice.

Mode. — After having cleared the fish from all skin and bone, divide
it into square pieces of an equal size ; brush them over with egg,
sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley and
seasoning. Lay. the fillets in a baking-dish, with suiEcicnt butter to
haste with. Bake for \ hour, and do not forget to keep them well
moistened with the butter. Put a little lemon-juice and grated nut-
meg to the cold lobster sauce ; make it hot, and pour over the fish,

FISH.

167

which, must be well drained, from the butter. Garnish with parsley
and cut lemon.

Time. — Altogether, 4 hour.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Cold turbot thus warmed in the remains of lobster sauce will be
found much nicer than putting the fish again in water.

FILLETS OF TURBOT A L’lTALIENNE.

340. Ingredients. — The remains of cold turbot, Italian sauce. (See
Sauces.)

Mode. — Clear the fish carefully from the bone, and take away all
skin, which gives an unpleasant flavour to the sauce. Make the sauce
hot, lay in the fish to warm through, but do not let it boil. Garnish
with croutons.

Time. — 5 minutes.

Seasonable all the year.

The ancient Homans’ Estimate op Tuebot. — As this luxurious people compared
soles to partridges, and sturgeons to peacocks, so they found a resemblance to the turbot
in the pheasant. In the time of Domitian, it is said one was taken of such dimensions
as to require, in the imperial kitchen, a new stove to be erected, and a new dish to be
made for it, in order that it might be cooked and served whole : not even imperial
Home could furnish a stove or a dish large enough for the monstrous animal. Where it
was caught, we are not aware; but the turbot of the Adriatic Sea held a high rank in the
“ Eternal City.’’

TUBBOT A LA CREME.

341 .. Ingredients. — The remains of cold turbot. For sauce, 2 oz. of
butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream ; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace
to taste.

Mode. — Clear away all skin and bone from the flesh of the turbot,
which should be done when it comes from table, as it causes less waste
when trimmed hot. Cut the flesh into nice square pieces, as equally
as possible ; put into a stewpan the butter, let it melt, and add the
cream and seasoning; let it just simmer for one minute, but not boil.
Lay in the fish to warm, and serve it garnished with croiltons or a
paste border.

Time. — 10 minutes.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — The remains of cold salmon may be dressed in this way, and tkc
above mixture may be served in a vol-au-vent.

TURBOT AU GRATIN'.

342- Ingredients. — Remains of cold turbot, bechamel (see Sauces),
bread crumbs, butter.

103

HODEItN HOUSBHOLD COOKEKY.

Mode— Cut the flesh of the turbot iuto small dice, carefully freeing
it from all skin and bone. Put them into a stewpan, and moisten
with 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of bechamel. Let it get thoroughly hot,
hut do not allow it to boil. Spread the mixture on a dish, cover with
finely-grated bread crumbs, and place small pieces of butter over the
top. Brown it in the oven, or with a salamander.

Time. — Altogether, i hour. Seasonable at any time.

BOILED WHITING.

343. Ingredients. — \ lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

Mode. — Cleanse the fish, hut do not skin them ; lay them in a fish-
kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover them, and salt in the above
proportion. Bring them gradually to a boil, and simmer gently for
about 5 minutes, or rather more should the fish be very large. Dish
them on a hot napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Serve with
anchovy or caper sauce, and plain melted butter.

Time. — After the water boils, 5 minutes.

Average cost for small whitings, id. each.

Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.

Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.

To Choose Whiting. — Choose for the firmness of its flesh and the silvery
hue of its appearance.

The Whiting. — This fish forms a light, ten-
der, and delicate food, easy of digestion. It
appears in our seas in the spring, within three
miles of the shores, where it arrives iii large
shoals to deposit its spawn. It is caught by
line, and is usually between ten and twelve inches
long, and seldom exceeding a pound and a half
in weight. On the edge of the Dogger Bank,
however, it has been caught so heavy as to
weigh from three to seven or eight pounds.
When less than six inches long, it is not allowed to be caught.

BROILED WHITING.

344. Ingredients. — Salt and water, flour.

Mode. — Wash the whiting in salt and water, wipe them thoroughly,
and let them remain in the cloth to absorb all moisture. Flour
them well, and broil over a very clear fire. Serve with maitre d' hot cl
sauce, or plain melted butter ( see Sauces). Be careful to preserve the
liver, as by some it is considered very delicate.

Time. — 5 minutes for a small whiting. Average cost, id. each.

Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.

Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.

Buckhorn. — Whitings caught in Cornwall arc salted and dried, and in winter taken
to the markets, and sold under the singular name of “ Buckhorn.**

H3H.

169

PRIED WHITING.

345. Ingredients. — Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour, hot lard
or clarified dripping.

- Mode. — Take off the skin, clean, and thoroughly wipe the fish free
from all moisture, as this is most essential, in order that the egg and
bread crumbs may properly adhere. Fasten the tail in the mouth by
means of a small skewer, brush the fish over with egg, dredge with a
little flour, and cover with bread crumbs. Fry them in hot lard or
clarified dripping of a nice colour, and serve them on a napkin, gar-
nished with fried parsley. (See Coloured Plate D.) Send them to
table with shrimp sauce and plain melted butter.

Time. — About 6 minutes. Average cost , 4 d. each.

Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.

Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.

Note. — Large whitings may be filleted, rolled, and served as fried filleted
soles (see Coloured Plate A). Small fried whitings are frequently used for
garnishing large boiled fish, such as turbot, cod, &e.

WHITING AU GRATIN, or BAKED WHITING.

346. Ingredients. — 4 whiting, butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced
parsley, a few chopped mushrooms when obtainable ; pepper, salt, and
grated nutmeg to taste ; butter, 2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, bread
crumbs.

Mode. — Grease the bottom of a baking-dish with butter, and over
it, strew some minced parsley and mushrooms. Scale, empty, and
wash the whitings, and wipe them thoroughly dry, carefully preserving
the livers. Lay them in the dish, sprinkle them with bread crumbs
and seasoning, adding a little grated nutmeg, and also a little more
minced parsley and mushrooms. Place small pieces of butter over the
whiting, moisten with the wine, and bake for 20 minutes in a hot
oven. If there should be too much sauce, reduce it by boiling over a
sharp fire for a few minutes, and pour under the fish. Serve with a
cut lemon, and no other sauce.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average cost, 4 d. each.

Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.

Sufficient, — This quantity for 4 or 5 persons.

WHITING AUX FINES HERBES.

347- Ingredients. — 1 bunch of sweet herbs chopped very fine;
butter.

Mode.— Clean and skin the fish, fasten the tails in the mouths, and

170

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

lay them in a baking-dish. Mince the herbs very fine, strew them
over the fish, and place small pieces of butter over ; cover with another
dish, and let them simmer in a Dutch oven for 5 hour or 20 minutes.
Tui n the fish once or twice, and serve with the sauce poured over.

Time. — £ hour or 20 minutes. Average cost, 4 d. each.

Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.

Sufficient, 1 small whiting for each person.

The Whiting Pout, and Pollack.— About the mouth of the Thames, and gene-
rally all round the English coasts, as well as in the northern seas, the pout is plentiful.

It bears a striking resemblance to the whiting, and is esteemed as an excellent tlsh.

The pollack is also taken all round our coasts, and likewise bears a striking resemblance
to the whiting ; indeed, it is sometimes mistaken by the inexperienced for that iish ; ita
flesh being considered by many equally delicate.

TO DRESS WHITEBAIT.

348. Ingredients. — A little flour, hot lard, seasoning of salt.

Mode. — This fish should he put into iced water as soon as bought,
unless they are cooked immediately. Drain them from the water in
a colander, and have ready a nice clean dry cloth, over which put
2 good handfuls of flour. Toss in the whitebait, shake them
lightly in the cloth, and put them in a wicker sieve to take away the
superfluous flour. Throw them into a pan of boiling lard, very few at
a time, and lot them fry till of a whitey-brown colour. Directly they
are done, they must be taken out, and laid before the fire for a
minute or two on a sieve reversed, covered with blotting-paper to
absorb the fat. Dish them on a hot napkin, arrange the fish very

high in the centre, and sprinkle a
little salt over the whole.

Time. — 3 minutes.

Seasonable from April to August.

Whitebait. — This highly- esteemed little
fish appears in innumerable multitudes in the
river Thames, uear Greenwich and Blackwall,
during the mouth of July, when it forms, served
with lemon and brown bread and butter, a
tempting dish to vast uuinbers of Londoners,
vho flock to the various taverns of these places,

The fish has

^ , or the bleak. Mr. Yarrell,

however, * maintains that it is a species in itself, distinct from every other iish. When

with flrt.ii. it i a oof o Artinrl o TTlIIlIRt.PrS flf tllP ( m ivn liflVP IlDll

WHITEBAIT. .

in order to gratify their appetites,
hcen supposed he tho fry of the shad, the sprat, the smelt, <

fried with flour, it is esteemed a great delicacy. The ministers of the Crown have had
a custom, for lnany years, of having a “ whitebait dinner’’ just before the close of the
session. It is invariably the precursor of the prorogation of Parliament, and tho repast
is provided by the proprietor of tho “ Trafalgar,” Greenwich.

FISH PIE, WITH TEHCH AND EELS.

349. Ingredients. — 2 tench, 2 eels, 2 onions, a faggot of herbs,
4 blades of mace, 3 anchovies, 1 pint of water, pepper and salt to taste,

FISH.

171

1 teaspoonful of chopped parsloy, the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs,

I puff paste.

Mode. — Clean and hone the tench, skin and bone the eels, and cut
them into pieees 2 inches long, and leave the sides of the tench whole.
Put the bones into a stewpan with the onions, herbs, mace, anchovies,
water, and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 1 hour. Strain
it off, put it to cool, and skim off all the fat. Lay the tench and eels
in a pie-dish, and between each layer put seasoning, chopped parsley,
and hard-boiled eggs ; pour in part of the strained liquor, cover in
with puff paste, and bake for § hour or rather more. The oven should
be rather quick, and when done, heat the remainder of the liquor,
which pour into the pie.

Time. — A hour to bake, or rather more if the oven is slow.

FISH SCALLOP.

350. Ik-geedients. — Kemains of cold fish of any sort, A pint of
j cream, i tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, i teaspoonful of made mus-
tard, ditto of walnut ketchup, pepper and salt to taste (the above*
; quantities are for h lb. of fish when picked) ; bread crumbs.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully picking
1 the fish from the bones ; set it on the fire, let it remain till nearly hot,

! occasionally stir the contents, but do not allow it to boil. When
i done, put the fish into a deep dish or scallop shell, with a good quantity
1 of bread crumbs ; place small pieees of butter on the top, set in a Dutch
1 oven before the fire to brown, or use a salamander.

Time. — \ hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold fish, 10c7.

ir.

351. Ingeedients.— Any cold fish, 1 egg, milk, 1 large blade of
: pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy
• sauce, pepper and salt to taste, bread crumbs, butter.

Mode.— Pick the fish carefully from the bones, and moisten with
j milk and the egg ; add the other ingredients, and place in a deep dish
; or scallop shells ; cover with bread crumbs, butter the top, and brown
before the fire ; when quite hot, serve.

Time— 20 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the cold fish, id.

ttr

WATER SOTJCHY.

352. Torch, tench, soles, eels, and flounders are considered the best
I fish for this dish. Tor the souchy, put some water into a stewpan with

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1.72

a bunch of chopped parsley, some roots, and sufficient salt to mal^s it
brackish. Let these simmer for 1 hour, and then stew the fish in
this water. When they are done, take them out to drain, have ready
some finely-chopped parsley, and a few roots cut into slices of about
one inch thick and an inch in length. Put the fish in a tureen or
deep dish, strain the liquor over them, and add the minced parsley
and roots. Serve with brown bread and butter.

353. Supply op Fish to the London Market.— From Mr. Maykew's
work on “London Labour and the London Poor,” and other sources, we are
enabled to give the following table of the total annual supply of fish to the
London market : —

Description of Fish.
WET FISH.

Number of
Fish.

Salmon and Salmon-Trout (29,000 boxes, 14 fish

per box) 406,000

Turbot, from 2 to 16 lbs. each 800,000

live Cod, averaging 10 lbs. each 400,000

Soles, averaging i lb. each 97,620,000

Brill and Mullet, averaging 3 lbs. each 1,220,000

Whiting, averaging 6 oz. each 17,920,000

Haddock, averaging 2 lbs. each 2,470,000

Plaice, averaging 1 lb. each 33,600,000

Mackerel, averaging 1 lb. each 23,620,000

Fresh herrings (250,000 barrels, 700 fish per barrel) 175,000,000

Ditto, in bulk 1,050,000,000

Sprats —

Eels (from Holland principally) England & Ireland 9,797,760

Flounders 259,200

Dabs 270,000

DRY FISH.

Barrelled Cod (15,000 barrels, 40 fish per barrel) ... 750,000 ...

Dried Salt Cod, 5 lbs. each 1,600,000 ...

Smoked Haddock (05,000 barrels, 300 fish per barrel) 19,500,000 ...
Bloaters, 265,000 baskets (150 fish per basket) ...147,000,000 ...
Red Herrings, 100,000 barrels (500 fish per barrel) 60,009,000 ...
Dried Sprats, 9, 600 large bundles (30 fish per bundle) 288,000 .*

SHELL FISH.

Oysters

Lobsters, averaging 1 lb. each
Crabs, averaging 1 lb. each

Shrimps, 324 to a pint

Whelks, 227,to a half-bushel ..
Mussels, 1,000 to ditto
Cockles, 2,000 to ditto
Periwinkles, 4,000 to ditto

... 495,896,000
... 1,200,000 ...
600,000 ...
... 498,428,648
... 4,943,200

... 50,400,000
... 67,392,000
... 304,000,000

The whole of the above may be, in round numbers, reckoned to
enormous number of 3,000,000,000 fish, with a weight of 300,000 tons.

Weight of
Fish in lbs.

3.480.000

5.600.000
4,000,000

26,880,000

3.366.000

6.720.000

4.940.000

33.600.000

23.520.000
42,000,000

252,000,000

4,000,000

1,632,960

43,200

49,750

4,200,000

8,000,000

10.920.000

10.600.000
14,000,000

9,600

1,200,000

600,000

amount to the

ADDENDUM. AND ANECDOTE.

It will be seen, from the number and variety of the recipes which we
have been enabled to give imder the head of Fish, that there exists in the
salt ocean, and fresh- water rivers, an abundance of aliment, which the
present state of gastronomic art enables the cook to introduce to the table
in the most agreeable forms, and oftentimes at a very moderate cost.

Less nutritious as a food than tho flesh of animals, more succulent than
vegetables, fish may be termed a middle dish, suited to all temperaments
and constitutions ; and one which those who are recovering from illness may
partake of with safety and advantage.

As to which is the best fish, there has been much discussion. The old
Latin proverb, however, de gustibus non disputandnm, and the more modern
Spanish one, solve los gustos no hai disputa, declare, with equal force, that
where taste is concerned, no decision can be arrived at. Each person’s palate
may be differently affected — pleased or displeased ; and there is no standard
by which to judge why a red mullet, a sole, or a turbot, should Vo better or
worse than a salmon, trout, pike, or a tiny tench.

Fish, as we have explained, is less nourishing than meat ; for it is lighter
in weight, size for size, and contains no ozmazome (see No. ioo). Shell-fish,
oysters particularly, furnish but little nutriment ; and this is the reason why
so many of the latter can be eaten without injury to the system.

In Brillat Savarin’s* clever and amusing volume, "The Physiology of Taste,”
he says, that towards the end of the eighteenth century it was a most common
thing for a well-arranged entertainment in Paris to commence with oysters,
and that many guests were not contented without swallowing twelve dozen .
Being anxious to know the weight of this advanced-guard, he ascertained that'
a dozen oysters, fluid inoluded, weighed 4 ounces, — thus, the twelve dozen
would weigh about 3 lbs. ; and there can be no doubt, that the same persons
who made no worse a dinner on account of having partaken of the oysters,
would have been completely satisfied if Choy had eaten the same weight of
chicken or mutton. An anecdoto, perfectly well authenticated, is narrated of
a French gentleman (M. Laperte), residing at Versailles, who was extra-
vagantly fond of oysters, declaring he nover had enough. Savarin resolved
to procuro him the satisfaction, and gave him an invitation to dinner, which
was duly accepted. The guest arrived, and his host lcopt company with him
in swallowing the delicious bivalves up to the tenth dozen, when, exhausted,

• i ’ •

* Brillat Savarin was a French lawyer and incite of considerable eminence ami great:
Talents, and wrote, under tho above title, a book on gastronomy, full of instructive
information, enlivened with a fund of pleasantly-told anecdote.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ho gave up, and let M. Laporto go on alone. This gentleman managed to
eat thirty-two dozen within an hour, and would doubtless have got through
more, but the person who opened them is described as not being very skilful.
In the interim Savarin was idle, and at length, tired with his painful state
of inaction, he saiti to ‘Laperte, whilst the latter was still in full career,
“Mon clier, you will not eat as many oysters to-day as you meant; let as
dine.” They dined, and the insatiable oyster-eater acted at the repast as
if he had fasted for a week.

FISH CARVING.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH.

In Carving Fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes, as, if
these are broken, the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver should be ac-
quainted, too, with the choicest parts and morsels ; and to give each guest
an equal share of these titbits should be his maxim. Steel knives and forks
should on no account be used in helping fish, as these are liable to impart
to it a very disagreeable flavour. Where silver fish-carvers are considered
too dear to be bought, good electro-plated ones answer very well, and arc-
inexpensive. The prices set down for them by Messrs. Slack, of the Strand,
are from a guinea upwards.

COD’S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.

(For recipe, see No. 232 ; and for mode of serving, Coloured Plate C.)

First run the knife along
the centre of the side of the
fish, namely, from d to b,
down to the bone ; then
carve it in unbroken slices
downwards from d to e, or
upwards from d to c, as
shown in the engraving.
. The carver should ask the
guests if they would like a portion of the roe and liver.

Note. — Of this fish, tho parts about tho backbono and shoulders are the
firmest, and most esteemod by connoisseurs. Tho sound, which lines tho fish
beneath the backbone, is considered a dolicacy, as are also tho gelatinous
parts about tho head and neck,

1'ISFI CARVING.

175

SALMON.

(For recipe, see No. 301 ; and for mode of dressing, Coloured Plate B.)

First run the knife quite
down to the hone, along the
side of the fish, from a to b, and
also from c to cl. Then help
the thick part lengthwise, that
is, in the direction of the lines
from a to b ; and the thin part
breadthwise, that is, in the
direction of the lines from e to f, as shown in the engrav iug. A
slice of the thick part should always he accompanied by a smaller
piece of the thin from the belly, where lies the fat of the fish.

XTjate. — Many persons, in carving salmon, make the mistake of slicing the
thick part of this fish in the opposite direction to that wo have stated ; and
thus, by the breaking of the flakes, the beauty of its appearance is destroyed.

BOILED OB FKIED SOLE.

I ,

(For recipes, see Nos. 321 and 327.)

The usual way of helping this fish is to cut it quite through, bone
and all, distributing it in nice and not too large pieces. A moderately-
ssized sole will be sufficient for three slices ; namely, the head, middle,
and tail. The guests should he asked which of these they prefer.
A small one will only give two slices. If the sole is very large, the
upper side may he raised from the hone, and then divided into pieces ;
Land the under side afterwards served in the same way.

In helping Filleted Soles, one fillet is given to each person. (F or
mode of serving, see Coloured Plate A.)

TUBBOT.

(For recipe, soo No. 337 ; and for modo of serving, Colourod Plato E.)

First run the fish-slice down the thiokest part of the fish, quite
through to the hone, from a to b, and then cut handsome and regular
felices in the direction of th^lines downwards, from c to e, and upwards
"rom c to d, as shown in the engraving. When the carver has removed
all the meat from the upper side of the fish, the backbone should be
raised, put on one side of the dish, and the under side helped as
the upper.

370

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

A Brill and Joiin Dory are carved in the same manner as
a Turhot.

Note. — The thick parts of the middle of the back are the best slices in
a turbot ; and the rich gelatinous skin covering the fish, as well as a little of
the thick part of the fins, are dainty morsels, and should be placed on
each plate.

WHITING, &c.

"Whiting-, pike, haddock, and other fish, when of a sufficiently large
size, maybe carved in the ■ same manner as salmon. When small,
they may be cut through, bone and all, and helped in nice pieces,
a middling-sized whiting serving for two slices.

Note. — The thick part of the Eel is reckoned the best ; and this holds good
of all flat fish.

The tail of the Lobster is the prime part, and nest to that the claws.

nen-CAKVEKS.

177

SAUCES, PICKLES, GRAVIES, AND FORCEMEATS.

CHAPTER IX.

GENERAL REMARKS.

354. An Anecdote is told of the prince de Soubise, who, intending- to

give an entertainment, asked for the bill of fare. His chef came, presenting
a list adorned with vignettes, and the first article of which, that met the
prince’s eye, was "fifty hams.” “Bertrand,” said the prince, “I think
you must be extravagant ; Fifty hams ! do you intend to feast my whole
regiment?” “No, Prince, there will be but one on the table, and the
surplus I need for my Espagnole, blondes, garnitures, &e.” “ Bertrand, you

are robbing me: this item will not do.” “Monseigneur,” said the artiste, •
“ you do not appreciate me. Give me the order, and I will put those fifty-
hams in a crystal flask no longer than my thumb.” The prince smiled, and
the hams were passed. This was all very well for the prince de Soubise ; but
as we do not write for princes and nobles alone, but that our British sisters ,
may make the best dishes out of tho least expensive ingredients, we will also
pass the hams, and give a few general directions concerning Sauces, kc.

355. The Preparation and Appearance op Sauces and Gravies are
of the highest consequence, and in nothing does the talent and taste of the
cook more display itself. Their special adaptability to the various viands they
are to accompany cannot be too much studied, in order that they may har-
monize and blend with them as perfectly, so to speak, as does a pianoforte
accompaniment with the voice of the singer.

356. The General Basis op host Gravies and some sauces is the same
stock as that used for soups (see Nos. 104, 105, 106, and 107) ; and, by the

378

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

employment of these, with, perhaps, an additional slice of ham, a little spice,
a few herbs, and a slight flavouring from some cold sauce or ketchup, very
nice gravies may be made for a very small expenditure. A milt (either of a
bullock or shedp), the shank-end of mutton that has already been dressed,
and the necks and feet of poultry, may all be advantageously used for gravy,
where much is not required. It maypthen,' be established as a rule, that there
exists no necessity for good gravies ’to be expensive, and that there is no
occasion, as many would have the world believe, to -buy -ever so many pounds
of fresh meat, in order to furnish an ever so little quantity of gravy.

357. Brown Sauces, generally -speaking, should scarcely be so thick as
white sauces ; and itiswfell to' bear in- mind, that all' those which arc intended
to mask the various dishes of poultry or meat, should be of a sufficient
consistency to slightly adhere to the fowls or joints over whifch they are
poured. For browning and thickening sauces, &c., browned flour may be
properly employed.

358. Sauces should possess a decided character ; and whether sharp
or sweet, savoury or plain, they should cany out their names in a distinct
manner, although, of course, not so much flavoured as to make them too
piquant on the one hand, or too mawkish on the other.

359. Gravies and Sauces should be sent to table very hot; and
there is all the more necessity for the cook to see to this point, as, from their
being usually served in small quantities, they are more liable to cool quickly
than if they were in a larger body. Those sauces, of which cream or eggs
form a component part, should be well stirred, as soon as these ingredients
are added to them, and must never be allowed to boil ; as, in that case, they
would instantly curdle.

360. Although Pickles may be purchased at shops at as low a rate as
they can usually be made for at home, or perhaps even for less, yet we would
advise all housewives, who have sufficient time and convenience, to prepare
their own. The only general rules, perhaps, worth stating here, — as in the
recipes all necessary details will be explained, aro, that the vegetables and
fruits used should be sound, and not over ripe, and that the very b?st vinegar
should bo employed.

361. For Forcemeats, special attention is necessary. The points
which cooks should, in this branch of cookery, more particularly observe, aro
the thorough chopping of the suet, the complete mincing of the herbs,
the careful grating of tho bread-crumbs, and tho perfect mixing of the whole.
These are the three principal ingredients of forcemoats, and they can scarcely
be cut too small, as nothing like a lump or fibre should bo anywhere per-
ceptible. To conclude, the flavour of no ono spice or herb should bo per-
mitted to predominate.

RECIPES.

<>♦-

CHAPTER X.

Sauce*, IpifKtes, <febi.es, artir Jmemeais.

ANCHOVY SAUCE FOE, FISH.

362. Ingredients. — 4'anchovies, 1 oz. of butter, -A- pint’ of ■ melted
(butter, cayenne to taste.

Mode. — Bone the anchovies, and pound them in a -mortar to a 'paste,
■with 1 oz. of butter. Make the melted butter hot* stir in the pounded
anchovies and cayenne ; simmer for 3 or 4 minutes ; and if liked,
add a squeeze of lemon-j uice. A more general and expeditious way
of making this sauce is to stir in Is tablespoonfuls of anchovy essence
ito 5 pint of melted butter, and to add seasoning to taste. Boil the
whole up for 1 minute, and serve hot.

Time.— 5 minutes. Average cost, 5 d. for -A pint.

Sufficient, this quantity, for a brill, small turbot, 3 or 4 soles, &c.

Anchovy Butter (see. No. 227).

Cayenne. — .This is the most acrid and stimulating spice with, which we are acquainted.
At is a powder prepared i'rom several varieties of the capsicum
annual East-India plants, of which there arc three so far.

(naturalized in this country as to be able to grow in the open
(air : these are the Guinea, the Cherry, and the Bell pepper.

■AH the pods of these are extremely pungent to the taste,

(and in the green state are used by us as a pickle. When
tripe, they are ground into cayenne pepper, and sold as a
•♦condiment. The best of this, however, is made in the West
Andies, from what is called the Bird pepper, on account ’of'

Ihcns and turkeys being extremely partial to it. It is im-
ported ready for use. Of the capsicum species of plants there
:are five ; but the principal are, — 1. Capsicum anmtum, the com-
:mon long-podded capsicum, which is cultivated in our gur-
<deB8, and of which there are two varieties, one with red, and ’

[another with yellow fruit. 2. Capsicum baccatum , or bird
jpepper, which rises with a shrubby stalk four or five feet
high, with its berries growing at the division of the branches :

'tins is small, oval-shaped, and of a bright-red colour, from
' which, as we have said, the best cayenne is mudo. 3. Cap-
natm grotmm, the bell-pepper: the fruit of this is red, and
w the only kind, fit for pickling.

THE CAPSICUM.

ISO MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKEUr.

APPLE SAUCE POE GEESE, FOEK, &c.

3G3. Ingredients. — 6 good-sized apples, sifted sugar to taste, a
piece of butter the size of a walnut, water.

Mode. — Pare, core, and quarter the apples, and throw them into
cold water to preserve their whiteness. Put them in a saucepan, with
sufficient water to moisten them, and boil till soft enough to pulp.
Heat them up, adding sugar to taste, and a small piece of butter.
This quantity is sufficient for a good-sized tureen.

Time. — According to the apples, about f hour. Average cost, id.

Sufficient, this quantity, for a goose or couple of ducks.

BROWN APPLE SAUCE.

364. Ingredients. — 6 good-sized apples, h pint of brown gravy,
•cayenne to taste.

Mode. Put the gravy in a stewpan, and add the apples, after having
pared, cored, and quartered them. Let them simmer gently till tender ;
beat them to a pulp, and season with cayenne. This sauce is pre-
ferred by many to the preceding.

Time.— According to the apples, about £ hour. Average cost, 6d.

ASPARAGUS SAUCE.

365. Ingredients. — 1 bunch of green asparagus, salt, 1 oz. of fresh
butter, 1 small bunch of parsley, 3 or 4 green onions, 1 large lump of
sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of sauce tournee.

Mode. — Break the asparagus in the tender part, wash well, and put
them into boiling salt and water to render them green. When they
are tender, take them out, and put them into cold water ; drain them
on a cloth till all moisture is absorbed from them. Put the butter in
a stewpan, with the parsley and onions ; lay in the asparagus, and
fry the whole over a sharp fire for 5 minutes. Add salt, the sugar
and sauce tournee, and simmer for another 5 minutes. Hub all
through a tammy, and if not a very good colour, use a little spinach
green. This sauce should be rather sweet.

Time. — Altogether 40 minutes. •

Average cost for this quantity, Is. id.

ASPIC, or ORNAMENTAL SAVOURY JELLY.

366. Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, 1 cow-heel, 3 or 4
slices of ham, any poultry trimmings, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 faggot of

SAUCES, ETC.

181

savoury herbs, 1 glass of sherry, 3 quarts of* 'water ; seasoning to taste
of salt and whole white pepper ; 3 eggs.

Mode. — Lay the ham on the bottom of a stewpan, cut up the veal
and cow-heel into small pieces, and lay them on the ham ; add the
poultry trimmings, vegetables, herbs, sherry, and water, and let the
whole simmer very gently for 4 hours, carefully taking away all
scum that may rise to the surface ; strain through a fine sieve, and
pour into an earthen pan to get cold. Have ready a clean stewpan,
put in the jelly, and be particular to leave the sediment behind, or it
| will not be clear. Add the whites of 3 eggs, with salt and pepper, to
clarify ; keep stirring over the fire, till the whole becomes very white
then draw it to the side, and let it stand till clear. When this is the
case, strain it through a cloth or jelly-bag, and use it for moulding-
poultry, &c. (See Explanation of French Terms, page 44.) Tarragon
vinegar may be added to give an additional flavour.

Time. — Altogether 4* hours. A verage cost for this quantity, 4s.

White Pepper. — This is the produce of the same plant as that which produces the
' black pepper, from which it is manufactured by steeping this in lime and water, and
i rubbing it between the hands till the coats come oiF. The best berries only will bear
this operation ; hence the superior qualities of white pepper fetch a higher price than
those of the other. It is less acrid than the black, and is much prized among the Chinese.
It is sometimes adulterated with rice-flour, as the black is with burnt bread. The berries
of the pepper-plant grow in spikes of from twenty to thirty, and are, when ripe, of a
bright-red colour. After being gathered, which is done when they are green, they are
spread out in the sun, where they dry and become black and shrivelled, when they are
i ready for being prepared for the market.

BECHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE.

367. Ingredients. — l small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, § bay-
leaf, 1 small faggot of savoury herbs, salt to taste ; 3 or 4 mush-
rooms, when obtainable ; 2 pints of white stock, 1 pint of cream,
1 tablespoonful of arrowroot.

Mode. — Put the stock into a stewpan, with the parsley, cloves,
bay-leaf, herbs, and mushrooms; add a seasoning of salt, but nn
[pepper, as that would give the sauce a dusty appearance, and should
be avoided. When it has boiled long enough to extract the flavour
'ofthe herbs, &c., strain it, and boil it up quickly again, until it is
nearly half-reduced. How mix tho arrowroot smoothly with the
cream, and let it simmer very gently for 0 minutes over a slow fire ;
.pour to it the reduced stock, and continue to simmer slowly for 10
minute^, if the sauce be thick. If, on the contrary, it be too thin, it
:must be stirred aver a sharp fire till it thickens. This is the
foundation of many kinds of sauces, especially -white sauces.
Always make it thick, as you can easily thin it with cream, milk,
[or white stock.

182

MODERN HOUSEHOLD C00KER7.

Time. — Altogether, 2 hours.

Average cost, Is. per pint.

THE CLOVE.

The Clove. — The clove-tree is n native of the Molucca
Islands, particularly Amboyna, and a i tains the height of
a laurel-tree, and no verdure is ever seen under it. From
1 lie extremities of the branches quantities of flowers grow,
first white ; then they become green, and next red and
hard, when they have arrived at their clove state. When
they become dry, they assume a yellowish hue, which sub-
sequently changes into a dark brown. As an aromatic, the
clove is highly stimulating, and yields an abun dance of oil.
There are several varieties Of the clove ; the best is called
the royal clove, which is scarce, and which is blacker and
smaller than the other kinds. It is a curious fact, that
liie flowers, when fully developed, are quite inodorous,
aud that the real fruit is not in the least aromatic. The
form is that of a nail, having a globular head, formed of
the four petals of the corolla, and four leaves of the calyx
not expanded, with a nearly cylindrical germen, scarcely an
inchin length, situate below.

BECHAMEL IAAIGRE, or WITHOUT MEAT.

368. Ingredients. — 2 onions, 1 blade of mace, mushroom trim-
mings, a small bunch of parsley, 1 oz. of butter, flour, £ pint of
water, 1 pint of milk, salt, the juice of h lemon, 2 eggs.

Mode. — Put in a stewpan the milk, and h pint of water, with the
onions, mace, mushrooms, parsley, and salt. Let these simmer gently
for 20 minutes. In the mean time, rub on a plate 1 oz. of flour and
butter ; put it to the liquor, and stir it well till it boils up ; then
place it by the side of the fire, and continue stirring until it is
perfectly smooth. Now strain it through a sieve into a basin, after
which put it back in the stewpan, and add the lemon-juice. Beat up
the yolks of the eggs with about 4 dessertspoonfuls of milk ; straiu
this to the sauce, keep stirring it over the fire, but do not let it boil,
lest it curdle.

Time. — Altogether, $ hour. Average cost, 5 d. per pint.

This is a good sauce to pour over boiled fowls when they are a bad
colour.

PICKLED BEETROOT.

369. Ingredients. — Sufficient vinegar to cover the beets, 2 oz.
of whole pepper, 2 oz. of allspice to each gallon of vinegar.

Mode. — Wash the beets free from dirt, and be very careful not to
prick the outside skin, or they would lose their beautiful c-lour.
Put them into boiling water, let them simmer gently, and when
about three parts done, which will be in li hour, take them out and
let them cool. Boil the vinegar with pepper and allspice, in the
above proportion, for ten minutes, and when cold, pour it on the
beets, which must be peeled and cut into slices about y inch thick.

SAUCES, ETC.

183

Cover with bladder to exclude the air, and in a week they will be
ht for use.

Average cost, 3s. per gallon.

Black PErpEE.— This well-known aromatic spice is the fruit of a species of climbing
tine, and is a native of the East Indies, and is extensively cultivated in Malabar and the
eastern islands of Borneo, Sumatra, and Java, and others in the same latitude. It was
formerly confined to these countries, but it has now been
introduced to Cayenne. It is generally employed as a
condiment; but it should never be forgotten, that, even
in small quantities, it produces detrimental effects on
inflammatory constitutions. Dr. Paris, in his work on
Diet, says, “ Foreign spices were notintended by Nature
for the inhabitants of temperate climes ; they are heat-
ing, and highly stimulant. I am, however, net anxious
to give more weight to this objection than it deserves.

Man is no longer the child of Nature, nor the passive
inhabitant of any particular region. He ranges over
every part of the globe, and elicits nourishment from the
productions of every climate. Nature is very kind in
avouring. the growth of those productions which are
most likely to answer our local wants. Those climates,
for instance, which engender endemic diseases, are, in
general, congenial to the growth of plants that operate as
antidotes to them. But if we goto the Eastfor tea, there
is no reason why we should uot go to the West for sugar.

The dyspeptic invalid, however, should be cautious in
their use ; they may afford temporary benefit, at the
expense of permanent mischief. It has been well said,
that the best quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite, and their worst to destroy,
by iusensible degrees, the tone of the stomach. The intrinsic goodness of meats should
always be suspected when they require spicy seasonings to compensate for their natural
want of sapidity.” The quality of pepper is known by rubbing it between the hands :
that which withstands tins operation is good, that which is reduced to powder by it is
bad. The quantity of pepper imported into Europe is very great.

BENTON SAUCE (to serve with Hot or Cold Boast Beef).

370- Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of scraped horseradish, 1 tea-
spoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 4 table-
I spoonfuls of vinegar.

Mode. — Grate or scrape the horseradish very fine, and mix it with
the other ingredients, which must b'e all well blended together;
serve in a tureen. "With cold meat, this sauce is a very good substitute
for pickles.

Average cost for this quantity, 2d.

BEE AD SAUCE (to serve with Boast Turkey, Eowl, Game, &c.).

371. Ingredients.— 1 pint of milk, -J ib. of the crumb of a stale
loaf, l onion; pounded mace, cayenne, and salt to taste; 1 oz. of
butter.

Mode. — Peel and quarter the onion, and simmer it in the milk till
perfectly tender. Break tho bread, which should be stale, into small
pieces, carefully picking out any hard outside pieces ; put it in a Vtry

164

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

dean saucepan, strain the milk over it, cover it up, and let it remain
for an hour to soak. Now beat it up with a fork ver3r smoothly,
add a seasoning of pounded mace, cayenne, and salt, with 1 oz. of
butter ; give the whole one boil, and serve. To enrich
this sauce, a small quantity of cream maybe added
j ust before sending it to table.

Time. — Altogether, if hour.

Average cost for this quantity, 4 d.

Sufficient to serve with a turkey, pair of fowls,
or brace of partridges.

?>Iace. — This is the membrane which surrounds the shell of the
nutmeg. Its general qualities are the same as those of the nutmeg,
producing an -agreeable aromatic odour, with a hot and acrid taste,
i t is of an oleaginous nature, is yellowish in its hue, and is used
largely as a coudiment. In “Beeton’s Dictionary” we find that
the four largest of the Banda Islands produce 150,000 lbs. of it
annually, which, with nutmegs, are then' principal articles of export.

II.

372- Ingredients. — Giblets of poultry, f lb. of the crumb of a
stale loaf, 1 onion, 12 whole peppers, 1 blade of mace, salt to taste,
2 tablespoonfuls of cream or melted butter, 1 pint of water.

Mode. — Put the giblets, with the head, neck, legs, &e., into a
stewpan ; add the onion, pepper, mace, salt, and rather more than
1 pint of water. Let this simmer for an hour, when strain the liquor
over the bread, which should be previously grated or broken into
small pieces. Cover up the saucepan, and leave it for an hour by
the side of the lire ; then beat the sauce up with a fork until no lumps
remain, and the whole is nice and smooth. Let it boil for 3 or 4
minutes ; keep stirring it until it is rather thick ; when add 3 table-
spoonfuls of good melted butter or cream, and serve very hot.

Time. — hours. Average cost, (id.

BROKING FOB GBAVIES AND SAUCES.

373- The browning for soups (see No. 108) answers equally well for
sauces and gravies, when it is absolutely necessary to colour them in this
manner ; but where they can be made to look brown by using ketchup,
wine, browned flour, tomatoes, or any colour sauce, it is far preferable.
As, however, in cooking, so much depends on appearance, perhaps it
would be as well for the inexperienced cook to use the artificial means
(No. 108). When no browning is at hand, and you wish to heighten
the colour of your gravy, dissolve a lump of sugar in an Iron spoon
over a sharp fire ; when it is in a liquid state, drop it into the sauce
or gravy quite hot. Care, however, must be taken not to put in too
much, as it would impart a very disagreeable flavour.

iixe::.

SAUCES^ ETC.

185

3EUEEE NOIH, or BROWNED BUTTER (a French Sauce).

374. Ingredients.— jib. of butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced pars-
ley, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste.

Jlode. — Put tbe butter into a fryingpan over a nice clear fire, and
when it smokes, throw in the parsley, and add the vinegar and
seasoning. Let the whole simmer for a minute or two, when it is
ready to serve. This is a very good sauce for skate.

Time. — \ hour.

CLARIFIED BUTTER.

375. Put the butter in a basin before the fire, and wheh it melts,
stir it round once or twice, and let it settle. Do not strain it unless
absolutely necessary, as it causes so much waste. Pour it gently oft'
into a clean dry jar, carefully leaving all sediment behind. Let it
cool, and carefully exclude the air by means of a bladder, or piece of
wash-leather, tied over. If the butter is salt, it may be washed before
melting, when it is to be used for sweet dishes.

MELTED BUTTER.

376. Ingredients. — j lb. of butter, a dessertspoonful of flour,
1 wineglassful of water, salt to taste.

Mode. — Cut the butter up into small pieces, put it in a saucepan,
dredge over the flour, and add the water and a seasoning of salt ; stir
it one icay constantly till the whole of the ingredients are melted and
thoroughly blended. Let it just boil, when it is ready to serve. If
the butter is to be melted with cream, use the same quantity as of
water, but omit the flour ; keep stirring it, but do not allow it
to boil.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer.

Average cost for this quantity, id.

II.

(More Economical.)

377- Ingredients. 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonfid of flour, salt
to taste, 5 pint of water.

Mode. Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, which put
into a saucepan. Add the butter and a seasoning of salt, keep stirring
one way till all the ingredients are melted and perfectly smooth ; let
the whole boil for a minute or two, and serve.

Time.— 2 minutes to simmer.

Average cost for this quantity; 2 d.

1S6

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

MELTED BUTTED (th.e Drench Sauce Blanche).

378. Ingredients. — \ lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of Hour,
salt to taste, i- gill of water, \ spoonful of white vinegar, a very little
grated nutmeg.

Mode.— Mix the flour and water to a smooth batter, carefully rub-
bing down with the back of a spoon any lumps that may appear.
Put it in a saucepan with all the other ingredients, and let it thicken
on the fire, but do not allow it to boil, lest it
should taste of the flour.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer.

Average cost, 5cl. for this quantity.

K ctmeg. — This is a native of the Moluccas, and was: long
kept from being spread in other places by the monopolizing
spirit of the Dutch, who endflavourcd.to keep it wholly to
themselves by eradicating it from every other island. We
find it stated in “ Beeton’s Dictionary of Universal Inform-
ation,” under the article “ Banda Islands,” that the four
largest are appropriated to the cultivation of nutmegs, of
which about 500,000 lbs. are annually produced. The plant,
through the enterprise of the British, has now found its way
into Penang and Bencooleu, where it flourishes and pro-
duces well. Ithas also been tried to be naturalized in the
West Indies, audit bears fruit all the year round. There are
two kinds of nutmeg, — one wild, and long and oval-shaped,
the other cultivated, and neirly round. The best is firm and
hard, and has a strong aromatic odour, with a hot and acrid taste. It ought to banned
with caution by those who arc of paralytic or apoplectio habits.

TUB NUTMEG.

THICKENED BUTTEB.

379. Ingredients. — £ pint of melted butter, No. 376, the yolks of
2 eggs, a little lemon-juice.

Mode. — Make the butter quite hot, and be careful not to colour it.
Well whisk the yolks of the eggs, pour them to the butter, beating them
all the while. Make the sauce hot over the fire, but do not let it
boil ; add a squeeze of lemon-juice.

MELTED BUTTED MADE WITH MILK.

380. Ingredients. — 1 teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. butter, l pint of
milk, a few grains of salt.

Mode. — Mix the butter and flour smoothly together on a plate, put
it into a lined saucepan, and pour in the milk. Keep stirring it one
way over a sharp fire ; let it boil quickly for a minute or two, and it is
ready to serve. This is a very good foundation for onion, lobster, or
oyster sauce : using milk instead of water makes it look so much
whiter and more delicate.

Time. — Altogether, 10 minutes. Average cost for this quantity, 3d.

SAUCES, ETC.

137

CAMP VINE GAB.

381. Ingeedienis.— 1 head of garlic, w oz. cayenne, 2 teaspoonfuls
of soy, 2 ditto walnut ketchup, 1 pint of viuegar, cochineal to colour.

Mode. — Slice the garlic, and put it, with all the above ingredients,
into a clean bottle. Let it stand to infuse for a month, when strain
it off quite clear, and it will be fit for use. Keep it in small bottles
well sealed, to exclude the air.

Average cost for thi3 quantity, 8 d.

CAPER SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON.

382. Ingeediehts. — ^ pint of melted butter (No. 376), 3 tablespoon-
fuls of capers or nasturtiums, 1 tablespoonful of their liquor.

Mode. — Chop the capers twice or thrice, and add them, with their
liquor, to | pint of melted butter, made very smoothly ; keep
stirring well ; let the sauce just simmer, and serve in a tureen.
Pickled nasturtium-pods are fine-flavoured, and by many are eaten
in preference to capers. They make an excellent sauce.

Time. — 2 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 8 d.

Sufficient to serve with a leg of mutton.

CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH,

383. Iegeedieets. — i pint of melted butter No. 376, 3 dessertspoon-
fuls of capers, 1 dessertspoonful of their liquor, a small piece of glaze,
if at hand (this may be dispensed with), 5 teaspoonful of salt, ditto
of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of anchovy essencq.

Mode. Cut the capers across once cr twice, but do not chop them
fine ; put them in a saucepan with ^ pint of good melted butter, and
add all the other ingredients. Keep stirring the whole until it just
simmers, when it is ready to serve.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer.
Average cost for this quantity, 5cl.

Sufficient to serve with a skate, or 2 or 3
slices of salmon.

Ca-pi-rs.— These nre the unopened buds of a low trail
inaahrub, which grows wild among the crevices of th
rocks of Greece, as well as in northern Afrieu ; the plunl
however, has <jomo to be cultivutcd in the south c
Europe. Alter being pickled in vinegnr and salt, the
are imported from Sicily, Italy, and tho south of France
The boat ore from Toulon.

THE OAPBE.

188

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

A SUBSTITUTE FOR CAPER SAUCE.

384. Ingredients.— & pint of melted butter, No. 376, 2 tablespoon -
fuls of cut parsley, 3 teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.

Mode— Boil the parsley slowly to let it become a bad colour ; cut,
but do not chop it fine. Add it to 3 pint of smoothly-made melted
butter, with salt and vinegar in the above proportions. Boil up and
serve.

Time. — 2 minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 3d.

PICKLED CAPSICUMS.

385. Ingredients. — Vinegar, \ oz. of pounded mace, and \ oz. of
grated nutmeg, to each quart ; brine.

Mode. — Gather the pods with the stalks on, before they turn red ;
slit them down the side with a small-pointed knife, and remove the
seeds only ; put them in a strong brine for 3 days, changing it every
morning ; then take them out, lay them on a cloth, with another one
over them, until they are perfectly free from moisture. Boil sufficient
vinegar to cover them, with mace and nutmeg in the above propor-
tions ; put the pods in a jar, pour over the vinegar when cold, and
exclude them from the air by means of a wet bladder tied over.

CAYENNE VINEGAR, or ESSENCE OP CAYENNE.

386. Ingredients.— | oz. of cayenne pepper, b pint of strong spirit,
or 1 pint of vinegar.

Mode. — Put the vinegar, or spirit, into a bottle, with the above
proportion of cayenne, and let it steep for a month, when strain off
and bottle for use. This is excellent seasoning for soups or sauces,
but must be used very sparingly.

CELERY SAUCE, FOR BOILED TURKEY, POULTRY, &c.

387. Ingredients.— 6 heads of celery, I pint of white stock, No. 107,
2 blades of mace, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs ; thickening of butter
and flour, or arrowroot, | pint of cream, lemon-juice.

Mode. — Boil the celery in salt and water, until tender, and cut it
into pieces 2 inches long. Put the stock into a stewpan with the
mace and herbs, and let it simmer for 3 hour to extract their flavour.
Then strain the liquor, add the celery and a thickening of butter
kneaded with flour, or, what is still better, with arrowroot ; just before
serving, put in the cream, boil it up and squeeze in a little lemon-
juice. If necessary, add a seasoning of salt and white pepper.

SAUCES, ETC.

189

Time.— 25 minutes to boil the celery. Average cost, Is. 3d.

Sufficient, this quantity, for a boiled
turkey.

This sauce may be made brown by using
jravy instead of white stock, and flavouring
it with mushroom ketchup or Harvey’s sauce.

Abeowkoot.— This nutritions feeula is obtained from
1 lie roots of a plant which is cultivated in both the East
and West Indies. When the roots are about a year old,
they are dug up, and, after being well washed, arebeaten
to a pulp, which is afterwards, by means of water, sepa-
rated from the fibrous part. After being passed through
vt sieve, once more washed, and then suffered to settle,
the sediment is dried in the sun, when it has become
arrowroot. The best is obtained from the West Indies,
but a large quantity of what is sold in London is adul-
terated with potato-starch. As a means of knowing
arrowroot when it is good, it may be as well to state,
that the genuine article, when formed into a jelly, will

remain firm for three or four days, whilst the adulterated will become as thiu as milk i
the course of twelve hours.

CELERY SAUCE (a More Simple Recipe).

388. Ingredients. — 4 beads of celery, 1 pint of melted butter, made
with milk (No. 380), 1 blade of pounded mace ; salt and white pepper
to taste.

Mode. — Wash the celery, boil it in salt and water till tender,
and cut it into pieces 2 inches long ; make i pint melted butter by
recipe No. 380 ; put in the celery, pounded mace, and seasoning ;
simmer for three minutes, when the sauce will be ready to serve.

Time.— 25 minutes to boil the celery. Average cost, 6 d.

Sufficient, this quantity, for a boiled fowl.

CELERY VINEGAR.

389. Ingredients. — 5 oz. of celery-seed, 1 pint of vinegar.

Mode. — Crush the seed by pounding it in a mortar ; boil the vinegar,

and when cold, pour it to the seed ; let it infuse for a fortnight, when
strain and bottle off for use. This is frequently used in salads.

CHESTNUT SAUCE EOR FOWLS OR TURKEY.

39°. Ingredients.— i lb. of chestnuts, | pint of white stock, 2 strips
of lemon-peel, cayenne to taste, pint of cream or milk.

Mode. — Peel off the outside skin of the chestnuts, and put them
into boiling water for a few minutes ; take off the thin inside peel,
and put them into a saucepan, with the white stock and lemou-peel,
and let them simmer for I3 hour, or until tho chestnuts are quite
tender. Rub the whole through a hair-sieve with a wooden spoon ;
add seasoning and the cream; let it just simmer, but not boil, and

190

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

keep stirring all the time. Servo very hot, and quickly. If milk is
used instead of cream, a very small quantity of thickening may be
required : that, of course, the cook will determine.

Time. — Altogether nearly two hours. Average cost, Sd.

Sufficient, this quantity, for a turkey.

BROWN CHESTNUT SAUCE.

39). Ingredients. — £ lb. of chestnuts, $ pink of stock No. 103,

2 lumps of sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of Spanish sauce ( see Sauces).

Mode. — Prepare the chestnuts as in the foregoing recipe, by scalding

and peeling them ; put them in a stewpan with the stock and sugar,
and simmer them.till tender. When done, add Spanish sauce in, the
above proportion, and rub the whole through a tammy. Keep this
sauce rather liquid, as it is liable to thicken.

Time.— 1§ hour to simmer the chestnuts. Average cost, 8 d.

BENGAL RECIPE FOR MAKING MANGO CHETNEY.

392. Ingredients. — 1§ lbs. of moist sugar, % lb. of salt, \ lb. of
garlic, £ lb. of onions, 3 lb. of powdered ginger, £ lb. of dried ckilies,

3 lb. of mustard-seed, f lb. of stoned raisins, 2 bottles . of best vinegar,
30 large unripe sour apples.

Mode. — The sugar' must be made into syrup ; the garlic, onions,
and ginger be finely pounded in a mortar ; the mustard-seed be
washed in cold vinegar, and dried in the sun ; the apples be peeled,
cored, and sliced, and boiled in a bottle and a half of the vinegar.
When all this is done, and the apples are quite cold, put them into a
large pan, and gradually mix the whole of the rest of the ingredients,
including the remaining half-bottle of vinegar. It must be well
stirred until the whole is thoroughly blended, and then put into
bottles for use. Tie a piece of wet bladder over the mouths of the
bottles, after they are well corked. This chetney
is very superior to any which can be. bought, and
one trial will prove it to be delioious.

Note.— This recipe was given by a native to an English
lady, who had. long been a resident in India, and who,
since her return to her native country, has become quite
celebrated amongst her friends for the excellence of
this Eastern relish.

Gahlic— The smell of this plant is generally considered
offensive, and it is the most acrimonious in its (nsls- of the
whole of the alliaceous tribe. In 15-18 it was introduced to

GALLIC.

is- still used as, a t ....

sod the Trench consider it an cssontiul in many made dishes.

England from the shores of the Mediterranean, where it is
abundant, und in Sicily it grows naturally. It was in greater
repute with our ancestors than it is with ourselves, although it
rr ilvrb. On tho continent, especially in Italy, it is much used,

SAUCES, ETC.

191

CHILI VINEGAR.

393. Ingredients. — 50 fresh red English chilies, 1 pint of vinegar.

Mode. — Pound or cut the chilies in half, and infuse them in the

vinegar for a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. This will be found
an agreeable relish to fish, as many people cannot eat it without the
addition of an acid and cayenne pepper.

CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S SAHCE FOR MEAT OR GAME.

394. Ingredients. — 1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of Har-
vey’s sauce, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, ditto of pounded
white sugar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, A teaspoonful of cayenne
pepper, ditto of salt.

Mode. — Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together, and heat the
: sauce gradually, by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan
I of boiling water. Do not allow it to boil, and serve directly it is ready.
This sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep good for a fortnight, and
will be found excellent.

CONSOMME, or WHITE STOCK FOR MANY SAUCES.

395. Consomme is made precisely in the same manner as stock
No. 107, and, for ordinary purposes, will be found quite good enough.
When, however, a stronger stock is desired, either put in half the
quantity of water, or double that of the meat. This is a very good
foundation for all white sauces.

CRAB SAUCE FOR FISH (equal to Lobster Sauce).

396. Ingredients. — 1 crab ; salt, pounded mace, and cayenne to
taste ; \ pint of melted butter made with milk (see No. 3S0).

Mode. — Choose a nice fresh crab, pick all the meat'away from the
shell, and cut it into small square pieces. Make i pint of melted butter
by recipe No. 380, put in the fish and seasoning.; let it gradually
warm through, and simmer for 2 minutes. It should.not boil.

Average cost, Is. 2 cl.

CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH OR WHITE DISHES.

397- Ingredients. — jpintof cream, 2oz. ofbutter, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, salt and cayenne to taste ; when liked, a small quantity of
pounded mace or lemon-juice.

Mode. Put the butter in a very clean saucepan, dredge in the
flour, and keep shaking round till tho butter is melted. Add the
seasoning and cream, and stir the whole till it boils ; let it, just simmer

192

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

for o minutes, when add either pounded mace or lemon-juice to taste,
to give it a flavour.

Time.— a minutes to simmer. Average cost for this quantity, 7 cl.

This sauce may be flavoured with very finely-shredded shalot.

CUCUMBER SAUCE.

398. Ingredients.— 3 or 4 cucumbers, 2 oz. of butter, G tablespcon-
fuls of brown gravy.

Mode. — Peel the cucumbers, quarter them, and take out the seeds ;
cut them into small pieces ; put them in a cloth, and rub them well,
to take out the water which hangs about them. Put the butter in a
saucepan, add the cucumbers, and shake them over a sharp lire
until they are of a good colour. Then pour over it the gravy, mix
this with the cucumbers, and simmer gently for 10 minutes, when it
will be ready to serve.

Time. — Altogether, § hour.

PICKLED CUCUMBERS.

399. Ingredients. — 1 oz. of whole pepper, 1 oz. of bruised ginger ;
sufficient vinegar to cover the cucumbers.

Mode. — Cut the cucumbers in thick slices, sprinkle salt over them,
and let them remain for 24 hours. The next day, drain them well
for 6 hours, put them into a jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, and

keep them in a warm place. In a short
time, boil up the vinegar again, add pep-
per and ginger in the above proportion!
and instantly cover them up. Tie them
down with bladder, and in a few days they
will be fit for use.

Long Pepper.— This is the produce of a different
plant from that which .produces the black, if consisting
of the half-ripe flower-heads of what naturalists call
Piper longum and chain. It is the growth, however,
of the same countries j indeed, all the spices are the
produce of tropical climates only. Originally, the
most valuable of these were found m the Spieo Islands,
or Moluccas, of the Indian Ocean, and were highly
prized by the nations of antiquity. The Romans in-
1,01,0 pepper. bulged in them to a most extravagant degree. The

long pepper is less aromatic than the black, but its oil is more pungent.

CUCUMBER SAUCE, WHITE.

400. Ingredients.— 3 or four cucumbers, $ pint of white stock,
No. 107, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 3 eggs.

Mode. — Cut the cucumbers into small pieces, after peeling them

SAUCES, ETC.

193

and taking out the seeds. Put them in a stewpan with the white
stock and seasoning ; simmer gently till the cucumbers are tender,
which will be in about j hour. Then add the yolks of the eggs well
beaten ; stir them to the sauce, but do not allow it to boil, and serve
Very hot.

Time. — Altogether, i hour.

CUCUMBER VINEGAR (a very nice Addition to Salads).

401. Ingredients. — 10 large cucumbers, or 12 smaller ones, 1
quart of vinegar, 2 onions, 2 shalots, 1 tablespoonful of salt, 2 table-
spoonfuls of pepper, \ teaspoonful of cayenne.

Mode. — Pare and slice the cucumbers, put them in a stone jar or
wide-mouthed bottle, with the vinegar ; slice the' onions and shalots,
and add them, with all the other ingredients, to the cucumbers. Let
it stand 4 or 5 days, boil it all up, and when cold, strain the liquor
i through a piece of muslin, and store it away in small bottles well sealed.

) This vinegar is a very nice addition to gravies, hashes, &c., as well
as a great improvement to salads, or to eat with cold meat.

GERMAN METHOD OF KEEPING CUCUMBERS FOR
WINTER USE.

402. Ingredients. — Cucumbers, salt.

Mode. — Pare and slice the cucumbers (as for the table), sprinkle
well with salt, and let them remain for 24 hours ; strain off the liquor,
pack in jars, a thick layer of cucumbers and
salt alternately ; tie down closely, and, when
wanted for use, take out the quantity re-
quired. Now wash them well in fresh water,
and dress as usual with pepper, vinegar,

■and oil.

The Cucumber. — Though the melon is far superior
jin point of flavour to this fruit, yet it is allied to the
cucumber, which is known to naturalists as Cucumis
matimis. The modern Egyptians, as did their fore-
fathers, still eat it, and others of its class. Cucumbers
'••vere observed, too by Bishop Heber, beyond the Ganges, in India j and Burckhardt
■noticed them m Palestine. ( See No. 127.)

AN EXCELLENT WAY OE PRESERVING CUCUMBERS.

4°3. Ingredients. — Salt and water; 1 lb. of lump sugar, the rind
»f 1 lemon, 1 oz. of ginger, cucumbers.

Mode. Choose the greenest cucumbers, and those that are most
Ifree from seeds ; put them iu strong salt and water, with a cabbage-

1P4

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

leaf to keep them down ; tie a paper over them, and put them in a
warm place till they are yellow ; then wash them and set them over
the fire in fresh water, with a very little salt, and another cabbage-
leaf over them ; cover very closely, but take care they do not boil. If
they are not a fine green, change the water again, cover them as
before, and make them hot. When they are a good colour, take them
off the fire and let them cool ; exit them in quarters, take out the seeds
and pulp, and put them into cold water. Let them remain for 2 days, ■
changing the water twice each day, to draw out the salt. Put the
sugar, with | pint of water, in a saucepan over the fire ; remove the
scum as it rises, and add the lemon-peel and ginger with the outside
scraped off ; when the syrup is tolerably thick, take it off the fire,
and when cold, wipe the cucumbers dry, and put them in. Boil
the syrup once in 2 or 3 days for 3 weeks ; strengthen it if required,
and let it be quite cold before the cucumbers are put in. Great
attention must be paid to the directions in the commencement of this
recipe, as, if these are not properly carried out, the result will be
far from satisfactory.

Seasonable. — This recipe should be used in June, July, or August.

Common Sait. — By this we mean
salt used for coolaiig purposes,
which is found in great abundance
both on land and in the waters of
the ocean. Sea or salt water, as it
is often called, contains, it has been
discovered, about three per cent, of
salt on an average. Solid rocks of 1
salt are also found in various part3
of the world, and the county of
Chester contains many of these
mines, and it is from there that !
much of our salt comes. Some
springs are so highly impregnated
with salt, as to have received the
name of “brine” springs, and are
supposed to have becomo so by-
passing through the salt rocks below
ground, and tbus.dissolvingaportion
of this mineral substance. We here . |
give an engraving of a salt-mine at
Northwieh, Cheshire, where both snlt-mine3 and brine-springs are exceedingly pro- \
ductive, and are believed to havo been wrought so far back us during the oenupation
of Britain by the Romans.

CUSTARD SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS OR TARTS.

404. Ingredients.— 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 oz. of pounded sugar,
1 tablespoonful of brandy.

Mode. — Put the milk in a very clean saucepan, and let it boil.
Beat the eggs, stir to them the milk and pounded sugar, and put the
mixture into a jug. riaco the jug in a saucepan of boiling water;
keep stirring well until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it

SAUCES, ETC.

195

•will curdle. 'Serve the sauce in a tureen, stir in the brandy, and grate
i little nutmeg over the top. This sauce maybe made very much
nicer by using cream instead of milk ; but the above recipe will be
! found quite good enough for ordinary purposes.

Average cost, 6 cl. per pint.

Sufficient , this quantity, for 2 fruit tarts, or 1 pudding.

DUTCH SAUCE FOB FISH.

405. Ingredients.— § teaspoonful of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 4 table-
Epoonfuls of vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of i lemon ; salt to
taste.

Mode, — Put all the ingredients, except the lemon-juice, into a stew-
pan ; set it over the fire, and keep continually stirring. TV hen it is
sufficiently thick, take it off, as it should not boil. If, however, it
happens to curdle, strain the sauce through a tammy, add the lemon-
juice, and serve. Tarragon vinegar may be used instead of plain,
and, by many, is considered far preferable.

1 Average cost, 6 d.

j Note, — This sauce may be poured hot over salad, and left to get
Ignite oold, when it should be thick, smooth, and somewhat stiff. Excel-
lent salads may be made of hard eggs, or the
remains of salt fish flaked nicely from the bone,
t>y pouring over a little of tho above mixture
when hot, and allowing it to cool.

The Lewoit. — This fruit is a native of Asia, and is
mentioned by ATirgil as an antidote to poison. It is
Miardier than the orange, and, as one of the citron tribe,
was brought into Europe by the Arabians. The lemon
was first cultivated in England in the beginning of the
117th century, and is now ol't'en to be found in our green-
sliouses. The kind commonly sold, however, is imported
ffrom Portugal, Spain, and the Azores. Some also come from
St. Helena; but those from Spain are esteemed the best,
flits juice is now an essential for culinary purposes ; but as
Jin antiscorbutic its value is still greater. This juice, which IHE I.EHOX.

£3 called citric acid, may be preserved in bottles for a con-
siderable time, by covering it With a tiiin stratum of oil. Shrill is made from it with
Kum and sugar.

GREEN DUTCH SAUCE, or HOLD AND AISE VEETE.

406. Ingredients. — 6 tablespoonfuls of Becliamel, No. 367, season-
ing to taste of salt and cayenne, a little parsley-green to colour, the
ij nice of 5 a lemon.

Mode. — Put the Bechamel into a saucepan with the seasoning, and
■bring it to a boil. Make a green colouring by pounding some parsley
an a mortar, and squeezing all the juice from it. Let this just simmer,

o 2

196

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

when add it to the sauce. - A moment before serving-, put in the lemon-
juice, but not before ; for otherwise the sauce would turn yellow, and
its appearance be thus spoiled.

Average cost, id.

Bechamel Sauce. — This sauce takes its name from a Monsieur Bechamel, a rich
French financier, who, according to some authorities, invented it; whilst others affirm I
he only patronized it. Be this as it may, it is one of the most pleasant sauces winch 1
come to table, and should be most carefully and intelligently prepared. It is frequently
used, as in the above recipe, as a principal ingredient and basis l'or other sauces. »

TO PICKLE EGGS.

407. Ingredients. — 16 eggs, 1 quart of vinegar, i oz. of Diaek
pepper, § oz. of Jamaica pepper, § oz. of ginger.

Mode. — Boil the eggs for 12 minutes, then dip them into cold water,
and take off the shells. Put the vinegar, with the pepper and ginger,
into a stewpan, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Now place the eggs |
in a jar, pour over them the vinegar, &c., boiling hot, and, when
cold, tie them down with bladder to exclude the air. This pickle will
be ready for use in a month.

Average cost, for this quantity, Is. 9 d.

Seasonable. — This should be made about Easter,
as at this time eggs are plentiful and cheap. A
store of pickled eggs will be found very useful and
ornamental in serving with many first and second
course dishes.

Gingeb. — The ginger-plant, known to naturalists as Zingiber
officinale, is a native of the East and West Indies. It grows
somewhat like the lily of the valley, but its height is about three
feet. In Jamaica it flowers about August or September, fading
about the end of the year. The flesny creeping roots, which
form the ginger of commerce, are in a proper state to be dug
when the stalks arc entirely withered. This oneration is usually
performed in January and February; and when the roots are
taken out of the earth, each one is picked, scraped, separately
washed, and afterwards very carefully dried. Ginger is gene- |
rally considered as less pungent and heating to the system than
might be expected from its effects on the organs of taste, and it is frequently used, with
considerable effect, as an anti-spasmodic and carminative.

EGG BALLS FOB SOUPS AND MADE DISHES.

408. Ingredients.— 8 eggs, a little flour; seasoning to taste of
salt.

Mode. — Boil 6 eggs for 20 minutes, strip off the shells, take the
yolks and pound them in a mortar. Beat the yolks of the other 2
eggs ; add them, with a little flour and salt, to those pounded ; mix
all well together, and roll into balls. Boil them before they are put
Into the soup or other dish they may be intended for.

SAUCES, ETC. 197

Time— 20 minutes to boil the eggs. Average cost, for this
quantity, 8c/.

Sufficient, 2 dozen halls for 1 tureen of soup.

EGG- SAUCE FOB SALT FISH.

409. Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 4 pint of melted butter, No. 376 ; when
liked, a very little lemon-juice.

Mode. — Boil the eggs until quite hard, which will be in about 20
minutes, and put them into cold water for \ hour. Strip off the shells,
chop the eggs into small pieces, not, however, too fine. Make the
melted butter very smoothly, by recipe No. 376, and, when boiling,
stir in the eggs, and serve very hot. Lemon-juice may be added at
pleasure.

Time. — 20 minutes to boil the eggs. Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient. — This quantity for 3 or 4 lbs. of fish.

Note. — When a thicker sauce is required, use one or two more eggs to the
same quantity of melted butter.

EPICUBEAN SAUCE FOB STEAKS, CHOPS, GBAVIES,

OB FISH.

410. Ingredients. — \ pint of walnut ketchup, \ pint of mushroom
ditto, 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian soy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine ;
5 oz. of white pepper, 2 oz. of shalots, j oz. of
cayenne, 5 oz. of cloves, f- pint of vinegar.

Mode. — Put the whole of the ingredients into a
bottle, and let it remain for a fortnight in a
warm place, occasionally shaking up the contents.

Strain, and bottle off for use. This sauce will be
found an agreeable addition to gravies, hashes,
stews, &c..

Average cost, for this quantity, Is. 6 d.

. Siialot, on Eschalot. — This plant is supposed to have been
introduced to England by the Crusaders, who found it growing
wild in the vicinity of Ascalou. It is a bulbous root, and when
full grown, its leaves wither in July. They ought to be taken
up in the autumn, and when dried in the house, will keep till sualot.

^ called by old authors tbo “ barren onion,” and is used in sauces and
pickles, soups and made dishes, and as an accompaniment to chops and steaks.

ESPAGNOLE, or BBOWI SPANISH SAUCE.

411. Ingredients. — 2 slices of lean ham, 1 lb. of veal, 1-J pint of
white stock, No. 107 ; 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, £ a bay-leaf, 2 or 3 sprigs
of savoury herbs, 6 green onions, 3 shalots, 2 cloves, 1 blade of mace,
2 glasses of sherry or Madeira, thickening of butter and flour.

108

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — Cat up the ham and veal into small square pieces, and put
them into a stewpan. Moisten these with 5 pint of the stock No. 107,
and simmer till the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a nicely-
coloured glaze, when put in a few more spoonfuls to detach it. Add
the remainder of the stock, with the spices, herbs, shalots, and onions,
and simmer very gently for 1 hour. Strain and skim off every particle
of fat, and when required for use, thicken with butter and flour, or
with a little roux. Add the wine, and, if necessary, a seasoning of
cayenne ; when it will be ready to serve.

Time. — 1A hour. Average cost, 2s. per pint.

Note. — The wine in this sauce may be omitted, and an onion sliced and fried
of a nice brown substituted for it. This sauce or gravy is used for many dishes,
and with most people is a general favourite.

FENNEL SAUCE FOB MACKEREL.

412. Ingredients. — A pint of melted butter, No. 376, rather more
than 1 tablespoonful of chopped fennel.

Mode. — Make the melted butter very
smoothly, by recipe No. 376 ; chop the
fennel rather small, carefully cleansing it
from any grit or dirt, and put it to the
butter when this is on the point of boiling.
Simmer for a minute or two, and serve in a
tureen.

Time. — 2 minutes. Average cost, id.
Sufficient to serve with 5 or 6 mackerel.

Funnel. — This elegantly-growing plant, of which
the Latin name is Anethnm faniculum, grows best in
chalky soils, where, indeed, it is often found wild. It
is very generally cultivated in gardens, and has much
improved on its original form. Various dishes are
frequently ornamented and garnished with its graceful
leaves, and these are sometimes boiled in soups,
although it is more usually confined, in English
cookery, to the mackerel sauce as here given.

FISH SAUCE.

413. Ingredients. — 1A oz. of cayenne, 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut
ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, a few shreds of garlic and shalot,
1 quart of vinegar.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, and shake well
every day for a fortnight. Keep it in small bottles well scaled, and in
a few days it will be fit for use.

Average cost, for this quantity, Is.

SAUCES, ETC.

189

FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR FISH SOUPS.

414. Ingredients. — 1 middling-sized lobster, i an anchovy, 1 head
>f boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg ; salt, cayenne, and
mace to taste ; 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 2 oz. of butter,
l eggs.

Mode. — Pick the meat from the shell of the lobster, and pound it,
,vith the soft parts, in a mortar ; add the celery, the yolk of the hard-
rniled egg, seasoning, and bread crumbs. Continue pounding till the
whole is nicely amalgamated. Warm the butter till it is in a liquid
state ; well whisk the eggs,- and work these up with the pounded
lobster-meat. Make into balls of about an inch in diameter, and fry
of nice pale brown.

Sufficient, from 18 to 20 balls for 1 tureen of soup.

FORCEMEAT FOR COLD SAVOURY PIES.

415. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of fat bacon; salt, cayenne,
pepper, and pounded mace to taste; a very little nutmeg, the same
*of chopped lemon-peel, | teaspoonful of chopped parsley, -1 teaspoonful
of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs.

Mode. — Chop the veal and bacon together, and put them in a mortar
with the other ingredients mentioned above,
bind with 1 or 2 eggs which have been pre-
viously beaten and strained. Work the whole
well together, and the forcemeat will be ready
for use. If the pie is not to be eaten imme-
diately, omit the herbs and parsley, as these
would prevent it from keeping. Mushrooms or
Itruffles may be added.

Sufficient for 2 small pies.

Maejoeam. — Although there are several species of mar-
joram, that which is known as the sweet or knotted marjoram,
lis the one usually preferred in cookery. It is a native of
Portugal, and when its leaves are used as a seasoning herb,
they have an agrecablo aromatic, flavour. The winter sweet
.marjoram used for tho same purposes, is a native of Greece
and the pot-marjoram is another variety brought from Sicily.’
jingredients in soups, stuffings, &c.

Pound well, and

MARTOBAAI.

All of tlie :n are favourite

forcemeat for pike, carp, haddock, and various

KINDS OF FISH.

, 4'6- Ingredients.— 1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 oz. of suet, 1 oz. of fat
aeon, 1 small tcaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, including parsley;

200

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

a little onion, when liked, shredded very tine; salt, nutmeg, and
cayenne to taste ; 4 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 egg.

Mode. — Mix all the ingredients well together, carefully mincing
them very finely ; heat up the egg, moisten with it, and work the
whole very smoothly together. Oysters or anchovies may be added
to this forcemeat, and will be found a great improvement.

Average cost, 6 d.

Sufficient for a moderate-sized haddock or pike.

FORCEMEAT FOE VEAL, TURKEYS, FOWLS, HARE, &c.

417. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of ham or lean bacon, j lb. of suet, the
rind of half a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful
of minced sweet herbs ; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste ;
6 oz. of bread crumbs, 2 eggs.

Mode. — Shred the ham or bacon, chop the suet, lemon-peel, and
herbs, taking particular care that all be very finely minced ; add a
seasoning to taste, of salt, cayenne, and mace, and blend all thoroughly
together with the bread crumbs, before wetting. Now beat and strain
the eggs, work these up with the other ingredients, and the force-
meat will be ready for use. When it is made into balls, fry of a nice
brown, in boiling lard, or put them on a tin and bake for h hour in
a moderate oven. As we have stated before, no one flavour should
predominate greatly, and the forcemeat should be of sufficient body to
cut with a knife, and yet not dry and heavy. For very delicate
forcemeat, it is advisable to pound the ingredients together before
binding with the egg ; but for ordinary cooking, mincing very finely
answers the purpose.

Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient for a turkey, a moderate-sized fillet of veal, or a hare.

furnish
for her

Note. — In forcemeat for Hare, the liver of the
animal is sometimes added. Boil for 5 minutes,
mince it very small, and mix it with the other ingre-
dients. If it should bo in an unsound state, it must
be on no account made uso of.

Sweet Hnnus. — Those moat usually employed for pur-
poses of cooking, such as tho flavouring ol soups, sauces,
forcemeats, '&c., are thyme, sage, mint, marjoram, savory,
and basil. Other sweet herbs are cultivated for purposes
of medicine and perfumery : they are most grateful both
to the organs of taste and smelling; and to the aroma
derived from them is duo, in a great measure, tho sweet
and exhilarating fragrance of our “ flowery meads. In
town, sweet herbs have to he procured at the greengrocers
or herbalists’, whilst, iu tho country, tho garden should
all that aro wantod, the cook taking great care to have some dried m the autumn
uso throughout the winter months.

SAUCES, ETC.

201

FORCEMEAT FOR BAKED PIKE.

418. Ingredient^. — 3 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 teaspoonful of minced
savoury herbs, 8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these may be dispensed with),

2 oz. of suet ; salt, pepper, and pounded mace to taste ; 6 tablespoonfuls
of cream or milk, the yolks of 2 eggs.

Mode. — Beard and mince the oysters, prepare and mix the other
ingredients by recipe No. 416, and blend the whole thoroughly together.
Moisten with the cream and eggs, put all into a stewpan, and stir it
over the fire till it thickens, when put it into the fish, which should
have previously been cut open, and sew it up.

Time. — 4 or 5 minutes to thicken. Average cost, 10 cl.

Sufficient for a moderate-sized pike.

FRENCH FORCEMEAT.

419. It will be well to state, in the beginning of this recipe, that French
forcemeat, or quenelles, consist of the blending of three separate pro-
cesses ; namely, panada, udder, and whatever meat you intend using.

Panada.

420. Ingredients. — The crumb of 2 penny rolls, 4 tablespoonfuls
of white stock, No. 107, 1 oz. of butter, 1 slice of ham, 1 bay-leaf, a
little minced parsley, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, a few
mushrooms (when obtainable), butter, the yolks of 2 eggs.

Mode. — Soak the crumb of the rolls in milk for about § hour,
then take it out, and squeeze so as to press the milk from it ; put the
soaked bread into a stewpan with the above quantity of white stock,’
and set it on one side ; then put into a separate stewpan 1 oz. of
butter, a slice of lean ham cut small, with a bay -leaf, herbs, mush-
rooms, spices, &c., in the above proportions, and fry them gently over
a slow fire. When done, moisten with 2 teacupfuls of white stock,
boil for 20 minutes, and strain the whole through a sieve over the
panada in the other stewpan. Place it over the fire, keep constantly
stirring, to prevent its burning, and when quite dry, put in a small
piece of butter. Let this again dry up by stirring over the fire ; then
add the yolks of 2 eggs, mix well, put the panada to cool on a clean
plate, and use it when required. Panada should always be well
flavoured, as the forcemeat receives no teste from any of the other
ingredients used in its preparation.

Boiled Calf’s Udder for French. Forcemeats.

421 . Put the udder into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it ;
let it stew gently till quito done, when take it out to cool. Trim all

202

JIODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

the upper parts, cut it into small pieces, and pound well in a mortar,
till it can be rubbed through a sieve. That portion which passes

through the strainer is one of the
three ingredients of which French
forcemeats are generally composed;
hut many cooks substitute butter for
this, being a less troublesome and
more expeditious mode of prepara-
tion.

Pestle and Mop.tab. — Yo cookery can
be perfectly performed without the aid of the
useful instruments shown in the engraving.
For pounding things sufficiently fine, they aro
invaluable, and the use of them will save a good
deal of time, besides increasing the excellence of the preparations. They are made of iron,
and, in that material, can be bought cheap ; but as these are not available for all purposes,
we should recommend, as more economical in the end, those made of AYcdgwood,
although these are considerably moro expensive than the former.

PESTLE AND MOETAE.

Veal Quenelles.

422. Ingredients.— Equal quantities of veal, panada (Ho. 420),
and calf’s udder (No. 421), 2 eggs ; seasoning to taste of pepper, salt,
and pounded mace, or grated nutmeg ; a little flour.

Mode. — Take the fleshy part of veal, scrape it with a knife, till all
the meat is separated from the sinews, and allow about b lb. for an
entree. Chop the meat, and pound it in a mortar till reduced to
a paste ; then roll it into a hall ; make another of panada (No. 420),
the same size, and another of udder (No. 421), -taking care that these
three balls be of the same size. It is to be remembered, that equality
of size, and not of weight, is here necessary. When the three ingredients
are properly prepared, pound them altogether in a mortar for some
time ; for the more quenelles are pounded, the more delicate they are.
Now moisten with the eggs, whites and yolks, and continue pounding,
adding a seasoning of pepper, spices, &c. When the whole is well
blended together, mould it into halls, or whatever shape is intended,
roll them in flour, and poach in boiling water, to which a little salt
should have been added. If the quenelles are not firnr enough,
add the yolk of another egg, hut omit the white, which only makes
them hollow and puffy inside. In the preparation of this recipe,
it would be well to bear in mind that the ingredients aro to be well
pounded and seasoned, and must he made hard or soft according
to the dishes they are iutended for. For brown or white ragouts
they should be firm, and when the quenelles are used very small,
extreme delicacy will he necessary in their preparation. Their
flavour may be varied by using the flesh of rabbit, fowl, hare,
pheasant, grouse, or an extra quantity of mushroom, parsley, &c.

SAUCES, ETC.

203

Time. — About * hour to poach in boiling water.

Sufficient, i lb. of veal or other meat, with other ingredients in pro-
ortion, for 1 entree.-

Note. — The French are noted for their skill in making forcemeats ; one of the-
rincipal causes of then- superiority in this respect being, that they pound all
he ingredients so diligently and thoroughly. Any one with the slightest
irotcnsions to refined cookery, must, in this particular, implicitly follow the
sample of our friends across the Channel.

FORCEMEAT, or QUEEELLES, FOR TURTLE SOUP.

{See ATo. 189.)

423. Soter’s Recipe for Forcemeats. — Take a pound and a half of lean
eal from the fillet, and cut it in long thin slices ; scrape with a knife till
otliing but the fibre remains ; put it in a mortar, pound it 10 minutes, or
til in a purde ; pass it through a wire sieve (use the remainder in stock) ;
hen take 1 pound of good fresh beef suet, which skin, shred, and chop very
ne ; put it in a mortar and pound it ; then add 6 oz. of panada (that is, bread
soaked in milk and boiled till nearly dry) with the suet ; pound them well
together, and add the veal ; season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of
pejiper, half that of nutmeg ; work all well together ; then add four eggs by
degrees, continually pounding the contents of the mortar. When well mixed,
take a small piece in a spoon, and poach it in some boiling water ; and if it is
delicate, firm, and of a good flavour, it is ready for use.

FRIED ERE AD CRUMBS.

424. Cut the bread into thin slices, place them in a cool oven over-
night, and when thoroughly dry and crisp, roll them down into fine
crumbs. Put some lard, or clarified dripping, into a frying-pan ;
bring it to the boiling-point, throw in the crumbs, and fry them very
quickly. Directly they are done, lift them out with a slice, and
drain them before the fire from all greasy moisture. When quite
crisp, they are ready for use. The fat they are fried in should be
clear, and the crumbs should not have the slightest appearance or
taste of having been, in tkg least degree, burnt.

FRIED SIPPETS OF BREAD (for Garnishing many Dishes).

425. Cut the bread into thin slices, and stamp them out in what-
ever shape you like, — rings, crosses, diamonds, &c. &c. Fry them
in the same manner as tho bread crumbs, in clear boiling lard, or
clarified dripping, and drain them until thoroughly crisp before the
fire. W hen variety is desired, fry some of a pale colour, and others,
of a darker hue.

204

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

FRIED BREAD FOR BORDERS.

426. Proceed as above, by frying some slices of bread cut in any
fanciful shape. When quite crisp, dip one side of the sippet into the
beaten white of an egg mixed with a little flour, and place it on the
edge of the dish. Continue in this manner till the border is completed,
arranging the sippets a pale and a dark one alternately.

GENEVESE SAUCE FOR SALMON, TROUT, &c.

427. Ingredients. — 1 small carrot, a small faggot of sweet herbs,
including parsley, 1 onion, 5 or 6 mushrooms (when obtainable), 1 bay-
leaf, 6 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz. of butler, 1 glass of sherry,

If pint of white stock, No. 107, thickening of butter and flour, the
juice of half a lemon.

Mode. — Cut up the onion and carrot into small rings, and put them
into a stewpan with the herbs, mushrooms, bay -leaf, cloves, and mace ;
add the butter, and simmer the whole very gently over a slow fire
until the onion is quite tender. Pour in the stock and sherry, and
stew slowly for 1 hour, when strain it off into a clean saucepan.

Now make a thickening of butter and flour,
put it to the sauce, stir it over the fire until
perfectly smooth and mellow, add the lemon-
juice, give one boil, when it will be ready for
table.

Time. — Altogether 2 hours.

Average cost, Is. 2>cl per pint.

Sufficient, half this quantity for two slices of
salmon.

Sage. — This was originally a native of the south of Europe,
but it has long been cultivated in the English garden. There
are several lands of it, known as the green, the red, the
sage. small-leaved, and the broad-leaved balsamic. In cookery, j

its principal use is for stuffings and sauces, for which
purpose the red is the most agreeable, and the green the next. The others are
used for medical purposes.

PICKLED GHERKINS.

42O. Ingredients. — Salt and water, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, i oz :
of whole black pepper, £ oz. of whole allspice, 4 cloves, 2 blades of
mace, a little horseradish. This proportion of pepper, spices, &c., foi j
1 quart of vinegar.

Mode. — Let the gherkins remain in salt and water for 3 or 4 days,
when take them out, wipe perfectly dry, and put them into a stone
jar. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, with spioes and pep-

—

SAUCES, ETC.

205

jer, &c., in tlie above proportion, for 10 minutes ; pour it, quite
oiling, over the gherkins, cover the jar
ivith vine-leaves, and put over them a plate,
etting them near the fire, where they must
emain all night. Nest day drain off the
inegar, boil it up again, and pour it hot over
hem. Cover up with fresh leaves, and let the
ivhole remain till quite cold. Now tie down
losely with bladder to exclude the air, and
n a month or two, they will be fit for use.

Time. — 4 days.

Seasonable from the middle of July to the
nd of August.

Gheukins. — Gherkins are young cucumbers; and the
nly way in which they are used for cooking purposes is ' gherkins.
ickling them, as by the recipe here given. Not having

.rrived at maturity, they have not, of course, so strongly a developed flavour as
ucumbers, and, as a pickle, they are very general favourites.

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR BOILED MACKEREL.

429. Ingredients. — 1 pint of green gooseberries, 3 tablespoonfuls
of Bechamel, No. 367 (veal gravy may be substituted for this), 2 oz. of
“resh butter ; seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Boil the gooseberries in water until quite tender ; strain
,hem, and rub them through a sieve. Put into a saucepan the
3 e charnel or gravy, with the butter and seasoning ; add the pulp from
:he gooseberries, mix all well together, and heat gradually through.
A little pounded sugar added to this sauce is by many persons con-
sidered an improvement, as the saccharine matter takes off the extreme
acidity of the unripe fruit.

Time. — Boil the gooseberries from 20 minutes to 5 hour.

Sufficient, this quantity, for a large dish of
mackerel.

Seasonable from May to July.

Tiie Gooseberry. — This useful and wholesome fruit
\J likes grontularia) is thought to be indigenous to the
British Isles, and may be occasionally found in a wild state
n some of the eastern counties, although, when unculti-
rated, it is but a very small and inferior berry. The high
state of perfection to which it has been here brought, is due
to the skill of the English gardeners ; for in no other country
does it attain the sumo size and flavour. The humidity of
the British climate, however, has doubtless something to do
with the result ; and it is said that gooseberries produced
in Scotland as far north as Inverness, are of a very superior
character. Malic and citric acid blended with sugar, pro-
duco the pleasant flavour of the gooseberry ; and upon tho

proper development of these properties depends the success of all cooking operations
with which they are connected. *

206

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKER?.

GLAZE FOR COVERING COLD HAMS, TONGUES, &c.

430. Ingredients. — Stock No. 104 or 107, doubling the quantity of
meat in cacli.

Mode. — We may remark at tlic outset, that unless glaze is wanted
in very large quantities, it is seldom made expressly. Either of the
stocks mentioned above, boiled down and reduced very considerably,
will be found to produce a very good glaze. Put the stock into a
stewpan, over a nice clear fire ; let it boil till it becomes somewhat
stiff, when keep stirring, to prevent its burning. The moment it is
sufficiently reduced, and comes to a glaze, turn it out into the glaze-
pot, of which we have here given an engraving. As, however, this is
not to be found in every establishment, a white earthenware jar
would answer the purpose ; and this may be placed in a vessel of boiling
water, to melt the glaze when required. It should never be warmed
in a saucepan, except on the principle of the bain marie, lest it slfbuld
reduce too much, and become black and bitter. If the glaze is wanted
of a pale colour, more veal than beef should be used in making the
stock ; and it is as well to omit turnips and celery, as these impart a
disagreeable bitter flavour.

To Gla7j: Cold Joints, &c. — Melt tho
glaze by placing the vessel which contains
it, into the bain marie or saucepan of boiling
water ; brush it over the meat with a paste-
brush, and if in places it is not quite covered,
repeat tho operation. The glaze should not
be too dark a colour. (See Coloured Cut oi
Glazed Ham, P.)

Glaze-Kettle. — This is a kettle used for keep-
hip the s trony stock boiled down to a jelly, which
Glaze-kettle. jg ]-nowu },y fj,e name of glaze. It is composed

of two tin vessels, as shown in the cut, one of which, the upper, — containing the glaze, is
inserted into one of larger diamoter and containing boiling water. A brush is put in tho
Email liolo at the top of tho lid, and is employed tor putting the glaze on anything that

may require it.

The Bain Maeie. — So long ago as tho time when emperors ruled in Rome, and tho

yellow Tiber passed through a populous and
wealthy city, this utensil was extensively em-
ployed’; and it is frequently mentioned by that
profound culinary chemist of the ancients, Api-
cius. It is an open kind of vessel (as shown in
the engraving and explained in our paragraph
No. 87, on tho French terms used in modern
cookery), filled with boiling or nearly boiling
water; and into this water should he put all the
stewpans containing those ingredients which it is
TUE BAIN MAEIE. desired to keep hot. The quantity and quality

of the contents of these vessels arc r.ot at all
affected; and if the hour of dinner is uncertain in nnyestablisbment, by reason ol the
nature ortho master’s business, nothing is so certain a iBeaus ol preserving the llavour
of all dishes us tho employment of tho bain marie.

SAUCES, ETC.

207

GREEN SAUCE FOR GREEN GEESE OR DUCKLINGS.

431. Ingredients. — j pint of sorrel -juice, 1 glass of sherry, ! pint
of green gooseberries, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of fresh
butter.

Mode. — Boil the gooseberries in water until they are quite tender ;
mash them and press them through a sieve ; put the pulp into a
saucepan with the above ingredients ; simmer
for 3 or 4 minutes, and serve very hot.

Time. — 3 or 4 minutes.

Note. — Wo have given this recipe as a sauce for
green geese, thinking that some of our readers might
sometimes require it ; but, at the generality of
fashionable tables, it is now seldom or never served.

Sorrel. — We gather from the pages of Pliny and Api-
cius, that sorrel was cultivated by the Romans in order to
give it more strength and flavour, and that they also partook
of it sometimes stewed with mustard, being seasoned with
a little oil and vinegar. At the present day, English
cookery is not much indebted to this plant ( Rumex Ace-
tosa ), although the French make use of it to a considerable
extent. It is found in most parts of Great Britain, and also
on the continent, growing wild in the grass meadows, and, in a few gardens, it is culti-
vated. Tlie acid of sorrel is very prononce, and is what chemists term a binoxalate of
potash ; that is, a combination of oxalic acid with potash.

GENERAL STOCK FOR GRAVIES.

432. Either of the stocks, Nos. 104, 105, or 107, will be found to
answer very well for the basis of many gravies, unless these are
wanted very rich indeed. By the addition of various store sauces,
thickening and flavouring, the stocks here referred to may be con-
verted into very good gravies. It should be borne in mind, however,
that the goodness and strength of spices, wines, flavourings, &c.,
evaporate, and that they lose a great deal of their fragrance, if added
to the gravy a long time before they are wanted. If this point is
attended to, a saving of one half the quantity of these ingredients
will be efFected, as, with long boiling, the flavour almost entirely
passes away. The shank-bones of mutton, previously well soaked,
will be found a great assistance in enriching gravies ; a kidney or
melt, beef skirt, trimmings of meat, &c. &c., answer very well when
only a small quantity is wanted, and, as we have before observed,
a good gravy need not necessarily be so very expensive ; for economi-
cally-prepared dishes are oftentimes found as savoury and wholesome
as dearer ones. The cook should also remember that the fragrance of
gravies should not be overpowered by too much spice, or any strong
essences, and that they should always bo warmed in a bain marie, after

203

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

they are flavoured, or else in a jar or jug placed in a saucepan full of
boiling water. The remains of roast-meat gravy should always be
saved ; as, when no meat is at hand, a very nice gravy in haste may

be made from it, and when added
to hashes, ragouts, &c., is a great
improvement.

Gravy-Kettle. — Tli is is a utensii
which will not be found in every kitchen ;
but it is a useful one where it is necessary
to keep gravies hot for the purpose of
pouring over various dishes as they are
cooking. It is made of copper, and should, consequently, be heated over the hot
plate, if there be one, or a charcoal stove. The price at which it can be purchased
is set down by Messrs. Slack at 14s.

GBAYY-KETTLE.

GRAVY FOR ROAST MEAT.

433. Ingredients. — Gravy, salt.

Mode. — Put a common dish with a small quantity of salt in it under
the meat, about a quarter of an hour before it is removed from the fire.
When the dish is full, take it away, baste the meat, and pour the
gravy into the dish on which the joint is to be served.

Sauces and Geavies in the Middle Ages. — Neither poultry, butcher’s meat, nor
roast game were eaten dry in the middle ages, any more than fried fish is now. Different
sauces, each having its own peculiar flavour, were served with all these dishes, and even
wit li the various parts of each animal. Strange and grotesque sauces, as, for example,
“eggs cooked on the spit,” “ butter fried and roasted," were invented by the cooks of
those days ; but these preparations had hardly any other merit than that of being
surprising and difficult to make.

A QUICKLY-MADE GRAVY.

434. Ingredients. — § lb. of shin of beef, l onion, \ carrot, 2 or 3
sprigs of parsley and savoury herbs, a piece of butter about the size
of a walnut ; cayenne and mace to taste, f pint of water.

Mode. — Cut up the meat into very small pieces, slice the onion and
carrot, and put them into a small saucepan with the butter. Keep
stirring over a sharp fire until they have taken a little colour,
when add the water and the remaining ingredients. Simmer for £
hour, skim well, strain, and flavour, when it will bo ready for use.

Time. — hour. Average cost, for this quantity, od.

A Hundeed different Disiies. — Modeni housewives know pretty well bow much
euro, and attention, and foresight are necessary in order to serve well a little dinner for
six or eight persons, — a dinner which will give credit to the minagt, and satisfaction and
pleasure to the g*esls. A quickly-made gravy, under some circumstances that wo have
known occur, will be useful to many housekeepers when they liavo not much time for
preparation. But, talking of speed, and time, and preparation, what a combination of
all these must have been necessary for the feast at the wedding of Charles VI. of Franco.
On that occasion, as Froissart the chronicler tells us, the art of cooking, with its in-
numerable paraphernalia of sauces, with gravy pepper, cinnamon, garlic, scallion,
brains, gravy Boups, milk potaae , and ragouts, had a signal triumph, lho skilful chtj-
de-cuisine of the royal household covered the great marble table of the ropal palace
with no less than a hundred different dishes, prepared in a hundred difiereut ways.

SAUCES, ETC.

201)

A GOOD BEEP GRAVY POE. POULTRY, GAME, &c.

435. Ingredients. — -2- lb. of lean beef, § pint of cold water, 1 slialot or
small onion, A a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, 1 tablespoonful of
Harvey’s sauce or mushroom ketchup, 5 a teaspoonful of arrowroot.

Mode. — Cut up the beef into small pieces, and put it, with the
water, into a stewpan. Add the shalot and seasoning-, and simmer
gently for 3 hours, taking care that it does not boil fast. A short time
before it is- required, take the arrowroot, and having mixed it with a
little cold water, pour it into the gravy, which keep stirring, adding
the Harvey’s sauce, and just letting it boil. Strain off the gravy in a
tureen, and serve very hot.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, 8 d. per pint.

BROWI GRAVY. -

436. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of butter, 2 large onions, 2 lbs. of shin of
beef, 2 small slices of lean bacon (if at hand), salt and whole pepper to
taste, 3 cloves, 2 quarts of water. For thickening, 2 oz. of butter, 3 oz.
of flour.

Mode.— Put the butter into a stewpan ; set this on the fire, throw
in the onions cut in rings, and fry them a light brown ; then add the
beef and bacon, which should be cut into small square pieces ; season,
and pour in a teacupful of water ; let it boil for about ten minutes,
or until it is of a nice brown colour, occasionally stirring the contents.
How fill up with water in the above proportion ; let it boil up, when
draw it to the side of the fire to simmer very gently for l| hour;
strain, and when cold, take off all the fat. In thickening this gravy,
melt 3 oz. of butter in a stewpan, add 2 oz. of flour, and stir till
of a light-brown colour ; when cold, add it to the strained gravy,
and boil it up quickly. This thickening may be made in larger
quantities, and kept in a stone jar for use when wanted.

Time. — Altogether, 2 hours. A verage cost, 4 cl. per pint.

Cloves. — This very agreeable- spice is the unexpended flower-buds of the Caryophyllits
nromaticus, a handsome branching tree, a native of the Malacca Islands. They take
their name from the Latin word davits, or the Trench clou, both meaning a nail, and to
which the clove has a considerable resemblance. Cloves were but little known to the
ancients, and Pliny appears to be the only writer who mentions them ; and lie says, vaguely
enough, that some were brought to Home, very similar to grains of pepper, but somewhat
longer ; that they were only to bo found in India, in awood consecrated to tho gods ; and
tjiat they Bervcd in the manufacture of perfumes. Tho Dutch, as in the case of the nutme"
(see 378), endeavoured, when they gained possession of the Spice Islands, to secure
a monopoly of cloves, and, so that tho cultivation of tho treo might bo confined to
Amboyna, their chief island, bribed the surrounding chiefs to cut down all trees found
elsewhere. The Amboyna, or royal clove, is said to bo tho best, and is rare ; bi t other
kinds, nearly oqnally good, are produced in other parts of tho world, and they come
to Europe from Mauritius, Bourbon, Cayenne, and Martinique, ns also from St. Kitts,

210

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

St. Vincent's, find Trinidad. The clove contains ahont 30 per cent, of volatile aromatic
oil, to vrhich it owes its peculiar pungent flavour, its other parts being composed of
woody fibre, water, gum, and resin.

BROWN GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT.

437. Ingredients. — 2 large onions, 1 large carrot, 2 oz. of butter,
3 pints of boiling water, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, a wineglassful of
good beer ; salt and pepper to taste.

Mode. — Slice, flour, and fry the onions and carrots in the butter
until of a nice light-brown colour ; then add the boiling water and the
remaining ingredients ; let the whole stew gently for about an hour ;
then strain, and when cold, skim off all the fat. Thicken it in the same
manner as recipe No. 436, and, if thought necessary, add a few drops
of colouring No. 108.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, 2 d. per pint.

Note. — The addition 06 a small quantity of mushroom ketchup or Harvey’s
sauce very much improves the flavour of this gravy.

RICH GRAVY FOR HASHES, RAGOUTS, &c.

438. Ingredients.— 2 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 large onion or a few
shalots, a little flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of mace, 2
or 3 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 5 teaspoonful of whole pepper, 1 slice of
lean ham or bacon, 4 a head of celery (when at hand), 2 pints of boiling
water ; salt and cayenne to taste.

Mode. — Cut the beef into thin slices, as also the onions, dredge them
with flour, and fry of a pale brown, but do not allow them to get
black ; pour in the boiling water, let it boil up ; and skim. Add the
remaining ingredients, and simmer the whole very gently for 2 hours,
or until all the juices are extracted from the
meat ; put it by to get cold, when take oft’ all
the fat. This gravy may be flavoured with
ketchup, store sauces, wine, or, in fact, any-
thing that may give additional and suitable
relislf to the dish it is'intended for.

Time. — Eat her more than 2 hours.

Average cost, 8 d. per pint.

AtXSPicjt. — This is the popular name given to pimento,
or J amities pepper, known to naturalists as Eugenia pimento,
and belonging to the order of Myrtacea*. It is the berry
of a flue tree in the West Indies and South America,
riMUNTO. which attains a height, of from fifteen to twenty feet : the

berries aro not allowed to ripen, but, being gathered
green, are then dried in the Him, and then become black. It is an inexpensive spjee,
and is considered more mild and innocent than most other spices; consequently, it is
much used for domestic purposes, combining a very agreeable variety of flavours.

SAUCES, ETC.

211

geavy made without meat foe fowls.

439. Ingredients.— The necks, feet, livers, and gizzards of the
fowls, 1 slice of toasted bread, b onion, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, salt
and pepper to taste, § pint of water, thickening of butter and flour,
1 dessertspoonful of ketchup.

Mode. — Wash the feet of the fowls thoroughly clean, and cut them
and the neck into small pieces. Put these into a stewpfm with the bread,
onion, herbs, seasoning, livers, and gizzards ; pour the water over them
and simmer gently for 1 hour. Now take out the liver, pound it, and
strain the liquor to it. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and a
flavouring of mushroom ketchup ; boil it up and serve.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, 4 cl. per pint.

A CHEAT GEAVY FOE HASHES, &e.

44°. Ingredients. — Bones and trimmings of the cooked joint
intended for hashing, j teaspoonful of salt, \ teaspoonful of whole
pepper, | teaspoonful of whole allspice, a small faggot of savoury
herbs, i head of celery, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening, suffleient
boiling water to cover the bones.

Mode. — Chop the bones in small pieces, and put them in a stewpan,
with the trimmings, salt, pepper, spice, herbs, and celery. Cover with
boiling water, and let the whole simmer gently for ly or 2 hours.
Slice and fry the onion in the butter till it is of a pale brown, and mix
it gradually with the gravy made from the bones ; boil-for | hour, and
strain into a basin ; now put it back into the stewpan ; flavour with
walnut pickle or ketchup, pickled-onion liquor, or any store sauce
that may be preferred. Thicken with a little butter and flour,
kneaded together on a plate, and the gravy will be ready for use.
After the thickening is added, the gravy should j ust boil, to take off
the rawness of the flour.

Time. — 2 hours, or rather more.

Average cost, id., exclusive of the bones and trimmings.

JUGGED GEAVY (Excellent).

44*. Ingredients.— 2 lbs. of shin of beef, £ lb. of lean ham,'l onion
or a few shalots, 2 pints of water, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1
blade of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, h a large carrot, i a head
of celery.

Mode. Cut up the beef and ham into small pieces, and slico the
vegetables ; take a jar, capable of lioldiug two pints of water, and
arrange therein, in layers, the ham, meat, vegetables, and seasoning

l> 2

212

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKE1U'.

alternately, filling up with the above quantity of water ; tie down
the jar, or put a plate over the top, so that the steam mav not escape ;
place it in the oven, and let it remain there from 6 to 8 hours ; should,
however, the oven be very hot, less time will be required. When
sufficiently cooked, strain the gravy, and when cold, remove the fat.

It may be flavoured with ketchup, wines, or any
other store sauce that may be preferred.

It is a good plan to put the jar in a cool oven
over-night, to draw the gravy ; and then it will not
require so long baking the following day.

Time. — From 6 to 8 hours, according to the
oven.

Average cost, 7 cl. per pint.

Celery. — As in the above recipe, the roots of celery are
principally used in England for flavouring soups, sauces, and
gravies, and for serving, with cheese at the termination of a
dinner, and as an ingredient for salad. In Italy, however, the
green leaves and stems are also employed for stews and soups,
and the seeds are al o more frequently made use of on the
continent than in our own islands. In Germany, celery is very
highly esteemed ; and it is there boiled and served up as a dish by
itself, as well as used in the composition of mixed dishes. We ourselves flunk that this
mild aromatic plant might oftener be cooked than it is ; for there are very few nicer
vegetable preparations brought to table than a well-dressed plate of stewed celery.

VEAL GEAVY FOB WHITE SAUCES, FRICASSEES, &c.

442- Ingeedients. — 2 slices of nicely flavoured lean ham, any
poultry trimmings, 3 lbs. of lean veal, a faggot of savoury herbs,
including parsley, a few green onions (or 1 large onion may be
substituted for these), a few mushrooms, when obtainable ; 1 blade of
mace, salt to taste, 3 pints of water.

Mode. — Cut up the ham and veal into small square pieces, put these
in a stewpan, moistening them with a small quantity of water ; place
them over the fire to draw down. When the bottom of the stewpan
becomes covered with a white glaze, fill up with water in the above
proportion ; add the remaining ingredients, stew very slowly for 3 or

4 hours, and do not forget to skim well the moment it boils. Put it
by, and, when cold, take off all the fat. This may be used for Be-
chamel, sauce tournee, and many other white sauces.

lime. — 3 or 4 hours. Average cost, 9d. per pint.

CHEAP GRAVY FOR MINCED VEAL.

4)3. Ingeedients. — Bones and trimmings of cold roast or boiled
veal, U pint of water, 1 onion, I teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel,

5 teaspoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, the juice of J lemon ;
thickening of butter and flour.

SAUCES, ETC.

213

jj lode . — P ut all the ingredients into a stewpan, except the thick-
ening and lemon-juice, and let them simmer very gently for rather
more than 1 hour, or until the liquor is reduced to a pint, when strain
through a hair-sieve. Add a thickening of butter and flour, and the
lemon -juice ; set it on the fire, and let it just boil up, when it will be
ready for use. It may he flavoured with a little tomato sauce, and,
where a rather dark-coloured gravy is not objected to, ketchup, or
Harvey’s sauce, may be added at pleasure.

Time. — Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost, 3 d.

GRAVY FOR VENISON.

444. Ingredients. — Trimmings of venison, 3 or 4 mutton shank-
hones, salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 teaspoonfuls of walnut

ketchup. #

Mode. — Brown the trimmings over a nice clear fire, and put them in a
stewpan with the shank-bones and water ; simmer gently for 2 hours,
strain and skim, and add the walnut ketchup
and a seasoning of salt. Let it just boil, when it
is ready to serve.

Time. — 2 hours.

Venisoh. — Far, far away in ages past, our fathers loved
the chase, and what it brought ; and it is usually imagined
that when Isaac ordered his son Esau to go out with his
weapons, his quiver and his bow, and to prepare for him
savoury meat, such as he loved, that it was venison he
desired. The wise Solomon, too, delighted in this kind of
fare ; for we learn that, at his table, every day were served
the wild ox, the roebuck, and the stag. Xenophon informs
us, in his History, that Cyrus, ldng of Persia, ordered that the deee.

venison should never bo wanting at his repasts ; and of the

effeminate Greeks it was the delight. The Romans, also, were devoted admirers of the
flesh of the deer ; and our own lungs and princes, from the Great Alfred down to the
Prince Consort, have hunted, although, it must be confessed, under vastly different
circumstances, the swift buck, and relished their “ haunch” all the more keenly, that
they had borne themselves bravely in the pursuit of the animal.

TO DRY HERBS FOR WINTER USE,

445- On a very dry day, gather the herbs, just before they begin to
flower. If this is done when the weather is damp, the herbs will
not be so good a colour. (It is very necessary to be particular in little
matters like this, for trifles constitute perfection, and herbs nicely cliie 1
will be found very acceptable when frost and snow are on the ground.
It is hardly necessary, however, to state that the flavour and fragrance
of fresh herbs are incomparably finer.) They should ho perfectly
freed from dirt and dust, and he divided into small hunches, with their
roots cut off. Dry them quickly in a very hot oven, or before the fire, as
by this means most of l heir flavour will he preserved, and be careful

21 4

MODERN HOUREHOtD COOKERY.

not to burn them ; tie them up in paper hags, and keep in a dry
place. This is a very general way of preserving dried herbs ; but we
would recommend the plan described in a former recipe.

Seasonable. — From the month of July to the end of (September is ^
the proper time for storing herbs for winter use.

HERB POWDER, EOR FLA VOURIHG, when Fresh Herbs
are not obtainable.

446. Ingredients. — 1 oz. of dried lemon-thyme, 1 oz. of dried
winter savory, 1 oz. of dried sweet marjoram and basil, 2 oz. of
dried parsley, 1 oz. of dried lemon-peel.

Mode. — Prepare and dry the herbs by recipe Ho. 445 ; pick the leaves
from the stalks, pound them, and sift them through a hair-sieve ;
mix in the above proportions, and keep in glass bottles, carefully
excluding the air. This, we think, a far better method of keeping
herbs, as the flavour and fragrance do not evaporate so much as when
they are merely put in paper bags. Preparing them in this way, you
have them ready for use at a moment’s notice.

WMint, sage, parsley, &c., dried, pounded, and each
put into separate bottles, will be found very useful in
winter.

cork with Corks with Wooden Tors. — These are the best corks to uso

wooden top. when it is indispensable that the air should not he admitted to the
ingredients contained in bottles which are in constant use. The top,
which, as will be seen by the accompanying little ent, is larger than the cork, is made
ol wood; and, besides effectually covering the whole top of the bottle, can be easily
removed and again used, as no corkscrew is necessary to pull it out.

Savory. — This we find described by Columella, a voluminous Roman writer on agri-
culture, as an odoriferous herb, which, “ in the brave days of old,” entered into the
seasoning of nearly every dish. Verily, there are but few new things under the sun,
and we don't find that we have made many discoveries in gastronomy, at least beyond
what was known to the ancient inhabitants of Italy. We possess two varieties of this
aromatic herb, known to naturalists as Satureja. They are called summer and winter
savory, according to the time of the year when they are fit for gathering. Both sorts
are in general cultivation throughout England.

HORSERADISH SAUCE, to serve with. Roast Beef.

447. Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, 1 tea-
spoonful of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, £ teaspoonful of
pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of made mustard ; vinegar.

Mode. — Grate the horseradish, and mix it well with the sugar,
salt, pepper, and mustard ; moisten it with sufficient vinegar to give
it the consistency of cream, and serve in a tureen : 3 or 4 table-
spoonfuls of cream added to the above, very much improve the
appearance and flavour of this sauco. To heat it to serve with hot

SAUCES, ETC.

215

roast beef, put it in a bain marie or a jar, which place in a saucepan
of boiling water ; make it hot, but do not allow
it to boil, or it will curdle.

Note.— This sauce is a great improvement on tho
old-fashioned way of serving cold-scraped horse-
radish with hot roast beef. The mixing of the cold
vinegar with the warm gravy cools and spoils every-
thing on the plate. Of course, with cold meat, the
sauce should be served cold.

The Horseradish. — This has been,_ for many years, a
favourite accompaniment of roast beef, and is a native of
England. It grows wild in wet ground, but has long been
cultivated in the garden, and is, occasionally , used in winter
salads and in sauces. On account of tho great volatility
of its oil, it should never be preserved by drying, hut
should be kept moist by being buried in sand. So rapidly does its volatile oil evaporate,
that even when scraped for the table, it almost immediately spoils by exposure to
the air,

horseradish: vinegar.

448. Ingredients. — \ lb. of scraped horseradish, 1 oz. of minced
shalot, 1 drachm of cayenne, 1 quart of vinegar.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients into a bottle, which shake well every
day for a fortnight. When it is thoroughly steeped, strain and bottle,
and it will he fit for use immediately. This will be found an agreeable
relish to cold beef, &o.

Seasonable. — This vinegar should he made either in October or
November, as horseradish is then in its highest perfection.

INDIAN GURRY-POWDER, founded on Dr. Kitchener’s

Recipe.

449. Ingredients. — j lb. of coriander-seed, \ lb. of turmeric, 2 oz.
of cinnamon -seed, i oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. of mustard, 1 oz. of ground
ginger, 5 ouqce of allspice, 2 oz. of fenugreek-seed.

Mode. — Put all*the ingredients in a cool oven, where they should
remain one night ; then pound them in a mortar, rub them through a
sieve, and mix thoroughly together ; keep the powder in a bottle, from
which the air should he completely excluded.

Note. — Wo have given this recipe for curry-powder, as somo persons prefo.
to make it at home ; but that purchased at auy respectable shop is, generally
speaking, farsuporior, and, taking all things into consideration, very frequently
more economical.

INDIAN MUSTARD, an excellent Relish to Bread and Butter,
or any cold Meat.

450. Ingredients. — 4 lb. of tho best mustard, }( lb. of flour, l oz.

THE HORSERADISH.

216

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

of salt, 4 shalots, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 4 tablespoonfuls of
ketchup, 5 bottle of anchovy sauce.

Mode. — Put the mustard, flour, and salt into a basin, and make
them into a stiff paste with boiling water. Boil the shalots with the
vinegar, ketchup, and anchovy sauce, for 1 0 minutes, and pour the
whole, loiling, over the mixture in the basin ; stir well, and reduce it
to a proper thickness ; put it into a bottle, with a
bruised shalot at the bottom, and store away for
use. This makes an excellent relish, and if properly
prepared will keep for years.

Mustard, — Before the year 1729, mustard was not known at
English tables. About that time au old woman, of the name of
Clements, residing in Durham, began to grind the seed in a mill,
and to pass the flour through several processes necessary to free
the seed from its husks. She kept her secret for many years to
herself, during which she sold large quantities of mustard through-
out the country, but especially in London. Here it was introduced
to the royal table, when it received the approval of George I.
From the circumstance of Mrs. Clements being a resident at
Durham, it obtained the name of Durham mustard. In the
county of that name it is still principally cultivated, and the
MUSTABD. plant is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth. It is the

best stimulant employed to impart strength to the digestive
organs, and even in its previously coarsely -pounded state, had a high reputation with
our ancestors.

INDIAN" PICKLE (very Superior).

451. Ingredients. — To each gallon of vinegar allow 6 cloves of
garlic, 12 shalots, 2 sticks of sliced horseradish, i lb. of bruised
ginger, 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of
allspice, 12 cloves, J oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, i lb. of
mustard, 1 oz. of turmeric ; a white cabbage, cauliflowers, radish-
pods, French beans, gherkins, small round pickling-onions, nastur-
tiums, capsicums,, chilies, &c.

Mode. — Cut the cabbage, which must be hard and white, into
slices, and the cauliflowers into small branches ; sprinkle salt over
them in a large dish, and let them remain two days ; then dry them,
and put them into a very large jar, with garlic, shalots, horseradish,
ginger, pepper, allspice, and cloves, in the above proportions. Boil
sufficient vinegar to cover them, which pour over, and, when cold,
cover up to keep thorn free from dust. As the other things for the
pickle ripen at different times, they may be added as they are ready :
these will be radish-pods, French beans, gherkins, small onions, nas-
turtiums, capsicums, chilies, &c. &c. As these are procured, they must,
first of all, be washed in a little cold vinegar, wiped, and then simply
added to the other ingredients in the large jar, only taking care that
they arc covered by the vinegar. If more vinegar should be wanted

SAUCES, ETC.

217

to add to the pickle, do not omit first to boil it before adding it to the
rest. When you have collected all the things you require, turn all
out in a large pan, and thoroughly mix them. Now put the mixed
vegetables into smaller jars, without any of the vinegar ; then boil the
vinegar again, adding as much more as will be required to fill the
different jars, and also cayenne, mustard-seed, turmeric, and mustard,
which must be well mixed with a little cold vinegar, allowing the
quantities named above to each gallon of vinegar. Pour the vinegar,
boiling hot, over the pickle, and when cold, tie down with a bladder.
If the pickle is wanted for immediate use, the vinegar should be boiled
twice more, but the better way is to make it during one season for use
during the next. It will keep for years, if care is taken that the
vegetables are quite covered by the vinegar. •

This recipe was taken from the directions of a lady whose pickle
was always pronounced excellent by all who tasted it, and who has,
for many years, exactly followed the recipe given above.

Note. — For small families, perhaps the above quantity of pickle will be
considered too large ; but this may be decreased at pleasure, taking care to
properly proportion the various ingredients.

Keeping Pickles. — Nothing shows more, perhaps, the difference between a tidy
thrifty housewife and a lady to whom these desirable epithets
may not honestly be applied, than the appearance of then*
respective store-closets. The former is able, the moment any-
thing is wanted, to put her hand on it at once ; no time is
lost, no vexation incurred, no dish spoilt for the want of “just
a little something,’’ — the latter, on the contrary, hunts all over
her cupboard for the ketchup the cook requires, or the pickle
the husband thinks he should like a little of with his cold
roast beef or mutton-chop, and vainly seeks for the Embden
groats, or arrowroot, to make one of her little boys some gruel.

One plan, then, we strenuously advise all who do not follow,
to begin at once, and that is, to label all their various pickles
and store sauces, in the same tvay as the cut here shows.

It will occupy a little lime at first, but there will be economy of it in the long run.

Yixegab. — This term is derived from the two French words via aigre, ‘ sour wine,’ and
should, therefore, be strictly applied to that which is made only from wine. As
the acid is the same, however it is procured, that made from ale also takes the same
name. Nearly all ancient nations were acquainted with the use of vinegar. We learn
in Rath, that the reapers in the East soaked their bread in it to freshen it. The Romans
kept large quantities of it in their cellars, using it, to a great extent, in their seasonings
and sauces. This people attributed very beneficial qualities to it, as it was supposed to
be digestive, antilnlious, and antiscorbutic, as well as refreshing. Spartianus,' a Latin
historian, tells us that, mixed with water, it was the drink of the soldiers, and that, thanks
to this beverage, the veterans of the Roman army braved, by its use, the inclemency and
variety of all the different seasons and climates of Europe, Asia, and Africa. It is said,
the Spanish peasantry, and other inhabitants of the southern parts of Europe, still follow
this practice, and add to a gallon of water about a gill of wine vinegar, with a little
salt ; and that this drink, with a littlo bread, enables them, under the heat of their
burning sun, to sustain the labours of tho field.

INDIAN CHETNEY SAUCE.

452- Ingredients. — 8 oz. of sharp, sour apples, pared and cored ;
8 oz. of tomatoes, 8 oz. of salt, 8 oz. of brown sugar, 8 oz. of stoned

218

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

raisins, 4 oz. of cayenne, 4 oz. of powdered ginger, 2 oz. of garlic,
2 oz. of slialots, 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 quart of lemon-juice.

Mode. — Chop tlie apples in small square pieces, and add to them
the other ingredients. Mix the whole well together, and put in a
well-covered jar. Keep this in a warm place, and stir every day for
a month, taking care to put on the lid after this operation ; strain,
but do not squeeze it dry ; store it away in clean jars or bottles for
use, and the liquor will serve as an excellent sauce for meat or
fish.

Seasonable. — Make this sauce when tomatoes are in full season, that
is, from the beginning of September to the end of October.

Pickles. — The ancient Greeks ancl Romans held their pieltles in high estimation.
They consisted of flowers, herbs, roots, and vegetables, preserved in vinegar, and
which were kept, for a long time, in cylindrical vases with wide mouths. Their cooks
prepared pickles with the greatest care, and the various ingredients were macerated
in oil, brine, and vinegar, with which they were often impregnated drop by drop.
Meat, also, after having been cut into very small phenes, was treated in’ the same
manner.

ITALIAN SAUCE (Brown).

453. Ingredients. — A few chopped mushrooms and shalots, \ pint
of stock, No. 105, i glass of Madeira, the juice of i lemon, ^ teaspoonful
of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

Mode. —Put the stock int6 a stewpan with the mushrooms, shalots,
and Madeira, and stew gently for £ hour, then add the remaining
ingredients, and let them just boil. When the sauce is done enough,
put it in another stewpan, and warm it in a bain marie. ( See No. 430.)
The mushrooms should not be chopped long before they are wanted,
as they will then become black.

Time.— I hour. Average cost, for this quantity, id.

Sufficient for a small dish.

ITALIAN SAUCE (White).

454. Ingredients. — | pint of white stock, No. 107; 2 tablespoonfuls
of chopped mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, 1 slice of
ham, minced very fine ; £ pint of Bechamel, No. 3G7 ; salt to taste, a
few drops of garlic vinegar, i teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a squeeze
of lemon-juice.

Mode. — Put tho shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the
stock and ham, and simmer very gently for 4 hour, when add tho
Bechamel. Let it just boil up, and then strain it through a tammy;
season with the above ingredients, and serve very hot. If this sauce
should not have retained a nice white colour, a little cream may bo
added.

SAUCES, ETC.

219

Time. — I hour. Average cost, for this quantity, 10c?.

Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish.

Note. — To preserve the colour of the mushrooms after pickling, throw them
into water to which a little lemon-juice has been added.

TO PICKLE LEMON'S WITH THE PEEL ON.

455. Isgeediekts. — 6 lemons, 2 quarts of boiling water; to each
quart of vinegar allow 4 oz. of cloves, 4 oz. of white pepper, 1 oz. of
bruised ginger, f oz. of mace and ehilies, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 4 stick
of sliced horseradish, a few cloves of garlic.

Mode. — Put the lemons into a brine that will bear an egg ; let them
remain in it 6 days, stirring them every day ; h-ave ready 2 quarts
of boiling water, put in the lemons, and allow them to boil for \ hour ;
take them out, and let them lie in a cloth until perfectly dry and
cold. Boil up sufficient vinegar to cover the lemons, with all the
above ingredients, allowing the same proportion as stated to each
quart of vinegar. Pack the lemons in a jar, pour over the vinegar,
&c. boiling hot, and tie down with a bladder. They will be fit for
use in about 12 months, or rather sooner.

Seasonable. — This should be made from November to April.

The Lemon-. — In the earlier ages of the world, the lemon does not appear to have
been at all known, and the Homans only became acquainted with it at a very late
period, and then only used it to keep moths from their garments. Its acidity would
seem to have been unpleasant to them ; and in Pliny’s time, at the commencement of
the Christian era, this fruit was hardly accepted, otherwise than as an excellent anti-
dote against the effects of poison. Many anecdotes have been related concerning the
anti-venomous properties of the lemon; Athenceus, a Latin writer, telling us, that on
one occasion, two men felt no effects from the bites of dangerous serpents, because they
had previously eaten of this fruit.

TO PICKLE LEMONS WITHOUT THE PEEL.

456. Is-geedients— 6 lemons, 1 lb. of .fine salt; to each quart of
vinegar, the same ingredients as No. 455.

Mode. — Peel the lemons, slit each one down 3 times, so as not to
divide them, and rub the salt well into the divisions ; place them in
a pan, where they must remain for a week, turning them every other
day ; then put them in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the salt
has become perfectly dry ; then arrange them in ajar. Pour over suffi-
cient boiling vinegar to cover them, to which have been added the
ingredients mentioned in the foregoing recipe ; tie down closely, and
in about 9 months they will be lit for use.

Seasonable. — The best time to make this is from November to
April.

Note. After this picklo lias boon made from 4 to 5 months, the liquor may
be -strained and bottled, and will bo found an excellent lemon ketchup.

220

MODERN UOUSEIIOLD COOKERY.

Lemon-juice.— Citric acid is tlie principal component part of lemon-juice, which, in
addition to tho agreeableness of its flavour, is also particularly cooling and grateful. It
is likewise an antiscorbutic; and this quality enhances its value. In order to combat
the fatal effects of scurvy amongst the crews of ships at sea, a regular allowance of
lemon-juice is served out to the men ; and by this practice, the disease has almost
entirely disappeared. By putting the juice into bottles, and pouring on the top
sufficient oil to cover it, it may be preserved for a considerable time. Italy and
Turkey export great quantities of it in this manner.

LEMON- SAUCE FOE BOILED FOWLS.

457- Ingredients.— 1 small lemon, f pint of melted butter, No.
380.

Mode. — Cut the lemon into very thin slices, and these again into
very small dice. Have ready % pint of melted butter, made by recipe
No. 380 ; put in the lemon ; let it just simmer, but not boil, and pour
it over the fowls.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer. Average cost, 6d.

Sufficient for a pair of large fowls. j

LEMON WHITE SAUCE, FOB FOWLS, FBICASSEES, &c.

458. Ingredients. — f pint of cream, the rind and juice of 1 lemon,
■J teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 sprig of lemon thyme, 3 oz. of
butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teaeupful of white stock ; salt to
taste.

Mode. — Pat the cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one' is
best), with the lemon-peel, pepper, and thyme, and let these infuse
for h hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes, or until there is a
nice flavour of lemon. Strain it, and add a thickening of butter and
flour in the above proportions ; stir this well in, and put in the lemon-
juice at the moment of serving; mix the stock with the cream, and
add a little salt. This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock
are mixed together.

Time. — Altogether, § hour. Average cost, Is. 6d.

MHOS THYME.

Sufficient, this quantity, for a pair of large
boiled fowls.

Note. — Where the expense of tho cream is objected
to, milk may be substituted for it. In this case, an
additional dessertspoonful, or rather more, of flour
must bo added.

Lemon Thyme. — Two or threo tufts of this species of
thyme, Thymus citriodoms, usually find a place in the
herb compartment of tho kitchen-garden. It is a trailing
evergreen, is of Bumller growth than the common kind
( sco No. 100) , and is remarkable for its smell, which closely
resembles that of the rind of a lemon. Hence its dis-
tinctive name. It is used for some particular dishes, in

which tho fragrance of the lemon is desired to slightly predominate.

SAUCES; ETC.

221

LEAMINGTON SAUCE (an Excellent Sauce for Flavouring
Gravies, Hashes, Soups, &e.).

- ( Author’s Recipe.')

459. Ingredients.— Walnuts. To each quart of walnut-juice allow
3 quarts of vinegar, 1 pint of Indian soy, 1 oz. of cayenne, 2 oz. of
shalots, oz. of garlic, i pint of port wine.

Mode. — Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they
appear in the market ; for they are more easily bruised before they
become hard and shelled. Pound them in a mortar to a pulp, strew
some salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days,
occasionally stirring and moving them about. Press out the juice, and
to each quart of walnut-liquor allow the above proportion of vinegar,
soy, cayenne, shalots, garlic, and port wine. Pound each ingredient
separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away
for use in small bottles. The corks should be well sealed.

Seasonable. — This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are
obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July.

LEffiOjJ B BANDY.

460. Ingredients. — 1 pint of brandy, the rind of two small lemons,
2 oz. of loaf-sugar, j pint of water.

Mode— Peel the lemons rather thin, taking care to have none of the
white pith. Put the rinds into a bottle with the brandy, and let them
infuse for 24 hours, when they should be strained. Eow boil the
sugar with the water for a few minutes, skim it, and, when cold, add
it to the brandy. A dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent
flavouring for boiled custards.

Lemon Rind . on Peel. — This contains an essential oil of a very high flavour and
fragrance, and is consequently esteemed both a wholesome and agreeable stomachic.
It is used, as will be seen by many reeipe3 in this book, as an ingredient for flavouring
a number of various dishes. Under the name of Candied Lemon-peel, it is cleared
of the pulp and preserved by sugar, when it becomes an excellent sweetmeat. By the
ancient medical philosopher Galen, and others, it may be added, that dried lemon-peel
was considered as one of the best digestives, and recommended to weak and delioato
persons.

LIAISON OP EGGS FOB THICKENING SAUCES.

461. Ingredients— The yolks of 3 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of milk
or cream.

Mode. — Beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add the milk, and
strain the whole through a hair-sieve. When the liaison is being
added to the sauce it is intended to thicken, care must be exercised to
keep stirring it during the whole time, or, otherwise, the eggs will
curdle. It should only just simmer, but not boil.

222

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

LIVER AHD LEMON SAUCE EOR POULTRY.

462. Ingredients.— The liver of a fowl, one lemon, salt to taste, h
pint of melted butter, No. 376.

Mode.— Wash, the liver, and let it boil for a few minutes ; peel the
lemon very thin, remove the white part and pips, and cut it into very
small dice ; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind
very line ; add these ingredients to i pint of smoothly-made melted
butter ; season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually,
but do not allow it to boil, lest the butter should oil.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer.

'Sufficient to serve with a pair of small fowls.

LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE EOR POULTRY.

463. Ingredients. — The liver of a fowl, one tablespoonful of minced
parsley, i pint of melted butter, No. 376.

Mode. — Wash and score the liver, boil it for a few minutes, and
mince it very fine ; blanch or scald a small bunch of parsley, of which
there should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon ; add this,
with the minced liver, to i pint of smoothly-made melted butter ; let
it just boil ; when serve.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer.

Sufficient for a pair of small fowls.

LOBSTER SAUCE, to servo with. Turbot, Salmon, Brill, &c.

{Very Good.)

464. Ingredients.— 1 middling-sized lien lobster, % pint of melted
butter, No. 376 ; 1 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, -5- oz. of butter,
salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace when liked, 2 or 3
tablespoonfuls of cream.

Mode. — Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable, in order to
render this sauce as good as it ought to be. Pick the meat from the
shells, and cut it into small square pieces ; put the spawn, which will
be found under the tail of the lobster, -into a mortar with i oz. of
butter, and pound it quite smooth ; rub it through a hair-sieve, and
cover up till wanted. Make % pint of melted butter by recipe No. 376;
put in all the ingredients except the lobster-meat, and well mix the
sauce before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square
form, and not come to table shredded and ragged. Put in the meat,
let it get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the colour
would immediately be spoiled ; for it should be remembered that this
sauce should always have a bright red appearance. If it is in-

SAUCES, ETC.

223

tended to be served with turbot or brill, a little of tlie spawn (dried
and rubbed through a sieve'without butter) should be saved to garnish
with ; but as the goodness, flavour, and appearance of the sauce so
much depend on having a proper quantity cf spawn, the less used for
garnishing the better.

Time— 1 minute to simmer. Average cost, for this quantity, 2s.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient to serve with a small turbot, a brill, or salmon for 6
persons.

Note. — Melted butter made with milk, No. 380, will be found to answer very
well for lobster sauce, as by employing it a nice white colour will be obtained.
Less quantity than the above may be made by using a very small lobster,
to which add only § pint of melted butter, and season as above. Where
economy is desired, the cream may be dispensed with, and the remains of a
cold lobster left from table, may, with a little care, be converted into a very
good sauce.

MAITRE D’HOTEL BUTTER, for putting into Broiled. Fish
just before it is sent to Table.

465. In OKED tents. — \ lb. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of minced
parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1 large lemon.

Mode. — Work the above ingredients well together, and let them be
thoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon. If this is used as a sauce,
it may be poured either under or over the meat or fish it is intended
to be served with.

Average cost, for this quantity, 5d.

Note. — 4 tablespoonfuls of Bechamel, No. 367, 2 do. of white stock, No. 107,
i with 2 oz. of the above maltre d’hOtel butter stirred into it, and just allowed
to simmer for 1 minute, will be found an excellent hot maltre d’hOtel sauce.

The MaItre p’TT utf.l. — The house-steward of England is synonomons with the
maitre d hotel of France; and, in ancient times, amongst the Latins, he was called
procurator, or major-domo. Jn Rome, the slaves, after they had procured the various
articles necessary lor the repasts of the day, would return to the spacious kitchen lnden
with meat, game, sea-fish, vegetables, fruit, &c. Each one would then lay his basket at
the feet of the major-domo, who would examine its contents and register them on his
tablets, placing in the pantry contiguous to the dining-room, thoso of the provisions which
znecd no preparation, and consigning the others to tho more immediate care of the
cooks.

MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE (IIOT), to serve with Calf’s Head,
Boiled Eels, and different Eish.

4^0. Ingredients. — 1 slice of minced ham, a few poultry-trim-
anings, 2 sbalots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 bay-leaf, £ pint of water, 2 oz. of
utter, l dessertspoonful of flour, 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped

224

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

parsley; salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste; the juice of \ large lemon,
z teaspoonful of pounded sugar.

Mode. — Put at the bottom of a stewpan the minced ham, and over it
the poultry-trimmings (if these are not at hand, veal should be substi-
tuted), with the shalots, garlic, and bay -leaf. Pour in the water, and
let the whole simmer gently for 1 hour, or until the liquor is reduced
to a full i pint. Then strain this gravy, put it in another saucepan,
make a thickening of butter and flour in the above proportions, and
stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire, until it is perfectly smooth
and rather thick, care being taken that the butter does not float on
the surface. Skim well, add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce
gradually heat, but do not allow it to boil. If this sauce is intended
for an entree, it is necessary to make it of a sufficient thickness, so
that it may adhere to what it is meant to cover.

Time. — 1§ hour. Average cost, Is. 2 d. per pint.

Sufficient for re-warming the remains of § calf s head, or a small
dish of cold flaked turbot, cod, &e.

MAIG-BE MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE (HOT).

(Made without Meat.)

467. Ingredients. — £ pint of melted butter, No. 376: 1 heaped
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice
of 5 large lemon ; when liked, 2 minced shalots.

Mode. — Make i pint of melted butter, by recipe No. 376 ; stir in
the above ingredients, and let them just boil ; when it is ready to
serve.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer. Average cost, 9 d. per pint. -

MAYONNAISE, a Sauce or Salad-Dressing for cold Chicken, Meat,
and other cold Dishes.

468. Ingredients. — The yolks of 2 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-
oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste, 1
tablespoonful of white stock, No. 107, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.

Mode. — Put the yolks of the eggs into a basin, with a seasoning of
pepper and salt ; have ready the above quantities ol oil and vinegar,
in separate vessels ; add them very gradually to the eggs ; continue
stirring and rubbing the mixture with a wooden spoon, as heroin
consists the secret of having a nice smooth sauce. It cannot be stirred
too frequently, and it should bo made in a very cool place, or, if icc is
at hand, it should be mixed over it. When the vinegar and oil are
well incorporated with the eggs, add the stock and cream, Stirling all
the time, and it will then be ready lor use.

SAUCES, ETC.

225

For a fish Mayonnaise, this sauce may be coloured with lobster-
spawn, pounded ; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a
little parsley-juice may he used to add to its appearance. Cucumber,
Tarragon, or any other flavoured vinegar, may be substituted for
plain, where they are liked.

Average cost, for this quantity, 7 cl.

Sufficient for a small salad.

Note. — In mixing- tlie oil and vinegar with the eggs, put in first a few drops
of oil, and then a few drops of vinegai-, never adding a large quantity-of either
at one time. By this means, you can be more certain of the sauce nob
curdling. Patience and practice, let us add, are two essentials for making
this sauce good.

MINT SAUCE, to serve with Roast Lamb.

469. Ingredients. — 4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2 dessert-
spoonfuls of pounded white sugar, J pint of vinegar.

Mode. — "Wash the mint, which should be young and fresh-gathered,
free from grit ; pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine,
and put them into a tureen; add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till
the former is dissolved. This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3
hours before wanted for table, as the vinegar then becomes impreg-
nated with the flavour of the mint. By many persons, the above pro-
portion of sugar would not be considered sufficient; but as tastes vary,
we have given the quantity which we have found to
suit the general palate.

Average cost, 3 d.

Sufficient to serve with a middling-sized joint of
lamb.

Note. — Where green mint is scarce and nob obtainable,
mint vinegar may bo substituted for it, and will bo found
very acceptable in early spring.

Mint. — The common mint cultivated in our gardens is known as
the Mentha tiridis, and is employed in different culinary processes,
being sometimes boiled with certain dishes, and afterwards with-
drawn. It has an agreeable aromatic flavour, and forms an in-
i gredient in soup3, and sometimes is used in spring salads. It is
valuable as a stomachic and antispasmodie ; on which account it
is generally served at table with pea-soup. Several of its species grow wild in low
j situations in the country.

MINT.

MINT VIHEGAR.

470. Ingredients— Vinegar, mint.

Mode.— Procure some nice fresh mint, pick the leaves from the
stalks, and fill a bottle or jar with them. Add vinegar to them until

226

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

the bottle is full ; cover closely to exclude the air, and let it infuse
for a fortnight. Then strain the liquor, and put it into small bottles
for use, of which the corks should be sealed.

Seasonable. — This should be made in June, July, or August.

MIXED PICKLE.

( Very Good.)

47 1 . Ingredients. — To each gallon of vinegar allow \ lb. of bruised
ginger, j lb. of mustard, J lb. of salt, 2 oz. of mustard-seed, l£ oz. of
turmeric, 1 oz. of ground black pepper, j oz. of cayenne, cauliflowers,
onions, celery, sliced cucumbers, gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums,
capsicums.

Mode. — Have a large jar, with a tightly-fitting lid, in which put
as much vinegar as required, reserving a little to mix the various
powders to a smooth paste. Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric,
pepper, and cayenne ; mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no
lumps remain ; add all the ingredients to the vinegar, and mix well.
Keep this liquor in a warm place, and thoroughly stir every morning
for a month with a wooden spoon, when it will be ready for the
different vegetables to be added to it. As these come into season,
have them gathered on a dry day, and, after merely wiping them with
a cloth, to free them from moisture, put them into the pickle. The
cauliflowers, it may be said, must be divided into small bunches.
Put all these into the pickle raw, and at the end of the season, when
there have been added as many of the vegetables as could be pro-
cured, store it away in jars, and tie over with bladder. As none
of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eat till
12 months have elapsed. Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a
wooden spoon tied to the jar ; and its contents, it may be repeated,
must be stirred every morning. *

Seasonable. — Make the pickle-liquor in May or June, as the season
arrives for the various vegetables to be picked.

MUSHROOM KETCHUP.

472. Ingredients. — To each peck of mushrooms 5 lb. of salt; to
each quart of mushroom-liquor j oz. of cayenne, oz. of allspice, £ oz.
of ginger, 2 blades of pounded mace.

Mode— Choose full-grown mushroom-flaps, and take care they aro
perfectly fresh- gathered when the weather is tolerably dry ; for,
if they arc picked during very heavy rain, the ketchup from which
they are made is liable to get musty, and will not keep long. Tut

SAUCES; ETC.

227

a layer of tliem in a deep pan, sprinkle salt oyer them, and
then another layer of mushrooms, and so on alternately. Let them
remain for a few hours, when break them up with the hand ; put them
in a nice cool place for 3 days, occasionally stirring and mashing them
well, to extract from them as much juice as possible. Now measure
the quantity of liquor without straining, and to each quart allow
the above proportion of spices, &c.. Put all into a stone jar, cover it
up very closely, put it in a saucepan of boiling water, set it over the
fire, and let it boil for 3 hours. Have ready a nice clean stewpan ;
turn into it the contents of the jar, and let the whole simmer very
gently for f hour ; pour it into a jug, where it should stand in a cool
place till the next day ; then pour it off into another jug, and strain
it into very dry clean bottles, and do not squeeze the mushrooms. To

I each pint of ketchup add a few drops of brandy. Be careful not to
shake the contents, but leave all the sediment behind in the jug ; cork
well, and either seal or rosin the cork, so as perfectly to exclude the
air. When a very clear bright ketchup is wanted, the liquor must be
strained through a very fine hair-sieve, or flannel bag, after it has
been very gently poured off ; if the operation is not successful, it
must be repeated until you have quite a clear liquor. It should be
examined occasionally, and if it is spoiling, should be reboiled with a
i few peppercorns.

Seasonable from the beginning of September to the middle of
October, when this ketchup should be made.

Note. — This flavouring ingredient, if genuine and well prepared, is one of the
most useful store sauces to the experienced cook, and no trouble should be
spared in its preparation. Double ketchup is made by reducing tho liquor to
half the quantity ; for example, 1 quart must be boiled down to 1 pint. This
goes farther than ordinary ketchup, as so little is required to flavour a good
quantity of gravy. Tho sediment may also be bottled for immediate use,
and will be found to answer for flavouring thick soups or gravies.

How TO Distinguish Mushrooms prom Toadstools.— The cultivated mushroom,
known as Agancui campestris may be distinguished from other poisonous kinds of fungi
by its havingfpmk or flesh-coloured gills, or under-side, and by its invariably having an
agreeable smell, winch the toadstool has not. When young, mushrooms aro like a small
round button, both the stalk and head being white. As they grow larger, they expand their
heads by degrees into a flat form, the gills underneath being at first of a pale flesh-colour,
but becoming, as they stand longer, dark brown or blackish. Nearly all the poisonous
kinds are brown, and have in general a rank and putrid smell. Edible mushrooms aro
sorts are tob f d pastures' but soldom Grow in woods, where most of the poisouous

TO DBY MUSHBOOMS.

4/3. Modc.—W ipe them clean, take away the brown part, and
peel oil tlie akin ; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool

<2 2

228

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

oven, when they will shrivel considerably. Keep them in paper
hags, which hang in a dry place. When wanted for use, put them
into cold gravy, bring them gradually to simmer, and it will bo

found that they will regain nearly
their usual size.

The Mushroom. — The cultivated or garden
mushroom is a species of fungus, which, in
England, is considered the best, and is there
usually eaten. The tribe, however, is nu-
merous, and a large proportion of them are
poisonous ; hence it is always dangerous to
make use of mushrooms gathered in their wild
state. In some parts of Europe, as in Ger-
many, Russia, and Poland, many species grow
wild, and are used as food; but in Britain,
two only are generally eaten. These are
mostly employed for the flavouring of dishes,
and are also dried and pickled. Catsup, or Ketchup, is made from them by miring
spices and salt with their juice. The young, called buttons, are the best for pickling
when in the globular form.

THE MUSHROOM.

BBOWIsf MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with. Roast Meat, &c.

474- Ingredients. — i pint of button mushrooms, \ pint of good
beef gravy, No. 435, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup (if at
hand), thickening of butter and flour.

Mode. — Put the gravy into a saucepan, thicken it, and stir over the
fire until it boils. Prepare the mushrooms by cutting off the stalks
and wiping them free from grit and dirt ; the large flap mushrooms
cut into small pieces will answer for a brown sauce, when the buttons
are not obtainable ; put them into the gravy, and let them simmer very
gently for about 10 minutes ; then add the ketchup, and serve.

Time. — llather more than 10 minutes.

Seasonable from August to October.

Note. — When fresh mushrooms are not obtainable, tbo powdor No. 477 may
be used as a substitute for brown sauce.

"WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE, to serve with Boiled Bowls,

Cutlets, &c.

475. Ingredients. — Rather more than 4 pint of button mushrooms,
lemon-juice and 'water, 1 oz. of butter, 5 pint of Bechamel, No. 367,
i teaspoonful of pounded sugar.

3Todc. — T urn the mushrooms white by putting them into lemon-juice
and water, having previously cut off the stalks and wiped them per-
fectly free from grit. Chop them, and put them in a stewpan with
the butter. When the mushrooms are softened, add the Bechamel,

SAUCES, ETC.

229

and simmer for about 5 minutes ; should they, however, not be done
enough, allow rather more time. They should not boil longer than
necessary, as they would then lose their colour and flavour. Eub the
whole through a tammy, and serve very hot. After this, it should
be warmed in a bain marie.

Time. — Altogether, j hour. Average cost, Is.

Seasonable from August to October.

ii.

A More Simple Method.

47 6. Ingredients. — i pint of melted butter, made with milk,
No. 380 ; £ pint of button mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of mushroom
ketchup, if at hand ; cayenne and salt to taste.

Mode. — Make the melted butter by recipe No. 380, and add to it
the mushrooms, which must be nicely cleaned, and free from grit, and
the stalks cut off. Let them simmer gently for about 10 minutes, or
until they are quite tender. Put in the seasoning and ketchup ; let it
just boil, when serve.

Time. — Eather more than 10 minutes. Average cost, 8 cl.

Seasonable from August to October.

Growth of the Mushroom and otheb Rung-i.— The quick growth of the mushroom
and other fungi is no less wonderful than the length of time they live, and the numerous
dancers they resist while they continue in the dormant state. To spring up “-like a
mushroom in a night” is a scriptural mode of expressing celerity ; and this completely
accords with all the observations which have been made concerning this curious class of
plants.. Mr. Sowerby remarks— “ I have often placed specimens of the Phallus eaninus
by a window over-night, whilo in the egg-form, and they have been fully grown by the
morning.”

MUSH'BOOM POWDER (a valuable addition to Sauces and
Gravies, wlien fresh Mushrooms are not obtainable).

477. Ingredients. — 3 peck of large mushrooms, 2 onions, 12 cloves,
i oz. of pounded mace, 2 teaspoonfuls of white pepper.

Mode. — Peel the mushrooms, wipe them perfectly free from grit and
dirt, remove the black fur, and reject all those that are at all worm-
eaten ; put them into a stewpan with the above ingredients, but without
water ; shako them over a clear lire, till all the liquor is dried up, and
be careful not to let them burn ; arrange them on tins, and dry them
in a slow oven ; pound them to a line powder, which put into small
dmj bottles ; cork well, seal the corks, and keep it in a dry place. In
using this powder, add it to the gravy just before serving, when it
will merely require one boil-up. The flavour imparted by this means
to the gravy, ought to be exceedingly good.

230

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Seasonable. — This should be made in September, or at the beginning
of October.

Note. — If the bottles in which it is. stored away are not perfectly dry, as, also
the mushroom powder, it will keep good but a very short time.

PICKLED MUSHROOMS.

478. Ingredients. — Sufficient vinegar to cover the mushrooms;
to each quart of mushrooms, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 oz. of
ground pepper, salt to taste.

Mode. — Choose some nice young button mushrooms for pickling,
and rub off the skin with a piece of flannel and salt, and cut off the
stalks ; if very large, take out the red inside, and reject the black ones,
as they are too old. Put them in a stewpan, sprinkle salt over them,
with pounded mace and pepper in the above proportion ; shake them
■well over a clear fire until the liquor flows, and keep them there until
it is all dried up again ; then add as much vinegar as will cover
them ; just let it simmer for 1 minute, and store it away in stone jars
for use. When cold, tie down with bladder and keep in a dry place :
they will remain good for a length of time, and are generally con-
sidered delicious.

Seasonable. — Make this the same time as ketchup, from the begin-
ning of September to the middle of October.

Nature op the Mushroom. — Locality has evidently a considerable influence on the
nature of the juices of the mushroom ; for it has been discovered, after fatal experience,
that some species, which are perfectly liarmless when raised in open meadows and pasture-
lands, become virulently poisonous when they happen to grow in contact with stagnant
water or putrescent animal and vegetable substances. What the precise nature of the
poison in fungi may be, has not been accurately ascertained.

A VERY RICH AID GOOD MUSHROOM SAUCE, to servo
with Fowls or Rabbits.

479. Ingredients. — 1 pint of mushroom-buttons, salt to taste, a
little grated nutmeg, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 pint of cream, 2 oz.
of butter, flour to thicken.

Mode. — Hub the buttons with apiece of flannel and salt, to take off
the skin; cut off the stalks, and put them in a stewpan with the above
ingredients, previously kneading together the butter and flour ; boil
the whole for about ten minutes, stirring all the time. Pour some of
the sauce over the fowls, and the remainder serve in a tureen.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient to serve with a pair of fowls.

Seasonable from August to October.

SAUCES, ETC.

231

HOW TO MIX MUSTARD.

480. Ingredients. — Mustard, salt, and water.

Mode. — Mustard should he mixed with water that has been boiled
and allowed to cool ; hot water destroys its essential properties, and
raw cold water might cause it to ferment. Put the mustard in a cup,
with a small 'pinch of salt, and mix with it very gradually sufficient
boiled water to make it drop from the spoon without being watery.
Stir and mix well, and rub the lumps well down with the back of a
spoon, as well-mixed mustard should he perfectly free from these.
The mustard-pot should not he more than half full, or rather less if it
will not be used in a day or two, as it is so much better when freshly
mixed.

TARTAR MUSTARD.

481. Ingredients. — Horseradish vinegar, cayenne, i a teaeupful of
mustard.

Mode.— Have ready sufficient horseradish vinegar to mix with the
above proportion of mustard ; put the mustard in a cup, with a slight
seasoning of cayenne ; mix it perfectly smooth with the vinegar,
adding this a little at a time ; rub down with the back of a spoon
any lumps that may appear, and do not let it be too thin. Mustard
may be flavoured in various ways, with Tarragon, shalot, celery, and
many other vinegars, herbs, spices, &e. ; but this is more customary
in France than in England, as there it is merely considered a “ vehicle
of flavours,” as it has been termed.

PICKLED NASTURTIUMS (a very good Substitute for Capers)

482. Ingredients. — To each pint of vinegar, 1 oz. of salt, 6 pepper-
corns, nasturtiums.

Mode. Gather the nasturtium-pods on a dry day, and wipe them
clean with a cloth ; put them in a dry glass
bottle, with vinegar, salt, and pepper in the
above proportion. If you cannot find enough
ripe to till a bottle, cork up what you have got
until you have some more fit : they may be
added from day to day. Bung up the bottles,
and seal or rosin the tops. They will be fit for
use in 10 or 12 months; and the best way is
to make them one season for the next.

Seasonable. Look for nasturtium-pods from
the end of J uly to the end of August.

Nastl H11UM8. Tho elegant nasturtium-plant, called by naturalists Tropatahtm, and

nastumiums.

232

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

which sometimes goo3 by the name of Indian cress, came originally from Peril, but
was easily made to grow in these islands. Its young leaves and flowers are of a slightly
hot nature, and many consider them a good adjunct to salads, to which they certainly
add a pretty appearance. When the beautiful blossoms, which maybe employed with
great effect in garnishing dishes, are off, then the fruit is used as described iu the above
recipe.

FRENCH ONION SATJCE, or SOUBISE.

483. Ingredients.— i pint of Bechamel, No. 367, 1 bay-leaf,
seasoning: to taste of pounded mace and cayenne, 6 onions, a small
piece of ham.

Mode. — Peel the onions and cut them in halves ; put them in a
stewpan, with just sufficient water to cover them, and add the bay-
leaf, ham, cayenne, and mace ; be careful to keep the lid closely shut,
and simmer them until tender. Take them out and drain tho-
, roughly ; rub them through a tammy or sieve (an old one does for the
purpose) with a wooden spoon, and put them to i pint of Bechamel ;
keep stirring over the fire until it boils, when serve. If it should
require any more seasoning, add it to taste.

Time. — f hour to boil the onions.

Average cost, 10 d. for this quantity.

Sufficie?it for a moderate-sized dish.

WHITE ONION SAUCE, for Boiled Babbits, Roast Shoulder

of Mutton, Sc.

484. Ingredients. — 9 large onions, or 12 middling-sized ones, 1
pint of melted butter made with milk (No. 380), i teaspoonful of salt,
or rather more.

Mode. — Peel the onions and put them into water to which a little
salt has been added, to preserve their whiteness, and let them remain
for hour. Then put them in a stewpan, cover them with water, and
let them boil until tender, and, if the onions should be very strong,
change the water after they have been boiling for £ hour. Drain
them thoroughly, chop them, and rub them through a tammy or
sieve. Make 1 pint of melted butter, by recipe No. 3S0, and when
that boils, put in the onions, with a seasoning of salt ; stir it till it
simmers, when it will be ready to serve. If these directions are
carefully attended to, this onion sauoe will be delicious.

Time. — From % to 1 hour, to boil the onions.

Average cost, 9 d. per pint.

Sufficient to serve with a roast shoulder of mutton, or boiled rabbit.

Seasonable from August to March.

Note.—' To make this sauco very mild and delicate, use Spanish onions,
which can bo procured from tho beginning of September to Christmas. 2.oi 3

6ATJCES, ETC.

2S3

tablespoonfuls of cream added just before serving, will be found to im-
prove its appearance very much. Small onions, when very young, may bo
cooked whole, and served in molted butter. A sieve or tammy should be
kept expressly" for onions : an old one answers the purpose, as it is liable
to retain the flavour and smell, which of course would be excessively dis-
agreeable in delicate preparations.

BBOWU ONION SAUCE.

485. Tngeedients. — 6 large onions, rather more than f pint of
good gravy, 2 oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste.

Mode. — Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown in a stewpan, with
the above quantity of butter, keeping them well stirred, that they do
not get black. When a nice colour, pour over the gravy, and let them
simmer gently until tender. Now skim off every particle of fat,
add the seasoning, and rub the whole through a tammy or sieve ; put
it back in the saucepan to warm, and when it boils, serve.

Time. — Altogether 1 hour.

Seasonable from August to March.

Note. — Where a very high flavouring is liked, add 1 tablespoonful of mush-
room ketchup, or a small quantity of port wine.

History of the Onion. — It is not supposed that any variety of the onion is indigenous
to Britain, as when the large and mild roots imported from warmer climates, have been
cultivated in these islands a few years, they deteriorate both in size and sweetness. It
is therefore most likely that this plant was first introduced into England from continental
Europe, and that it originally was produced in a southern climate, and has gradually
become acclimatized to a colder atmosphere. (See No. 139.)

PICKLED ONIONS (a very Simple Method, and exceedingly

Good).

486. Ingredients. — Pickling onions ; to each quart of vinegar,
2 teaspoonfuls of allspice, 2 teaspoonfuls of whole black pepper.

Mode. — Have the onions gathered when quite dry and ripe, and,
with the fingers, take off the thin outside skin ; then, with a silver
knife (steel should not be used, as it spoils the colour of the onions),
remove one more skin, when the onion will look quite clear. Have
ready some very dry bottles or jars, and as fast as they arc peeled, put
them in. Pour over sufficient cold vinegar to cover them, with pepper
and allspice in the above proportions, taking care that each jar has
its share of the latter ingredients. Tie down with bladder, and put
them in a dry place, and in a fortnight they will ho fit for use.
This is a most simple recipe and very delicious, the onions being nice
and crisp. They should ho eaten within 6 or 8 months after being
done, as the onions are liable to become soft.

Seasonable from the middle of July to the end of August.

234

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

PICKLED ONIOKS.

487. Ingredients.— 1 gallon of pickling onions, salt and water,
milk ; to each i gallon of vinegar, 1 oz. of bruised ginger, £ teaspoonful
of cayenne, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of whole black pepper, 5 oz. of whole
nutmeg bruised, 8 cloves, ^ oz. of mace.

Mode. — Gather the onions, which should not he too small, when
they are quite dry and ripe ; wipe off the dirt, but do not pare
them ; make a strong solution of salt and water, into which, put the
onions, and change this, morning and night, for 3 days, and save the
last brine they were put in. Then take the outside skin off, and put
them into a tin saucepan capable of holding them all, as they are
always better done together. Now take equal quantities of milk and
the last salt and water the onions were in, and pour this to them ;
to this add 2 large spoonfuls of salt, put them over the fire, and
watoh them very attentively. Keep constantly turning the onions
about with a wooden skimmer, those at the bottom to the top, and
vice versa ; and let the milk and water run through the holes of the
skimmer. Remember, the onions must never boil, or, if they do, they
will be good for nothing ; and they should be quite transparent. Keep
the onions stirred for a few minutes, and, in stirring them, be
particular not to break them. Then have ready a pan with a colander,
into which turn the onions to drain, covering them with a cloth to
keep in the steam. Place on a table an old cloth, 2 or 3 times
double ; put the onions on it when quite hot, and over them an
old piece of blanket; cover this closely over them, to keep in
the steam. Let them remain till the next day, when they
will be quite' cold, and look yellow and shrivelled ; take off the
shrivelled skins, when they should be as white as snow. Put them
in a pan, make a pickle of vinegar and the remaining ingredients,
boil all these up, and pour hot over the onions in the pan. Cover
very closely to keep in all ,tkc steam, and let them stand till the
following day, when they will be quite cold. Put them into jars or
bottles well bunged, and a tablespoonful of the best olive-oil on the
top of each jar or bottle. Tie them down with bladder, and let them
stand in a cool place for a month or six weeks, when they will be fit
for use. They should be beautifully white, and eat crisp, without
the least softness, and will keep good many mouths.

Seasonable from the middle of J uly to the end of August.

ORANGE GRAVY, for Wildfowl, Widgeon, Teal, &c.

488. Ingredients. — 1 pint of white stock, No. 107, 1 small onion,
3 or 4 strips of lemon or orange peel, a few leaves of basil, if at hand,

SAUCES, ETC.

235

the juice of a Seville orange or lemon, salt ancl pepper to taste, 1 glass
of port wine.

Mode. — Put the onion, cut in slices, into a stewpan with the stock
orange-peel, and basil, and let them simmer very gently for I hour 01
rather longer, should the gravy not taste sufficiently of the peel
Strain it off, and add to the gravy the remaining ingredients ; let the
whole heat through, and, when on the point of boiling, serve very hot
in a tureen which should have a cover to it.

Time. — Altogether i hour.

Sufficient for a small tureen.

OYSTER FORCEMEAT, for Roast or Boiled Turkey.

489. Ingredients.— i pint of bread crumbs, li oz. of chopped suet
or butter, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, I saltspoonful of grated nutmeg,
salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs, 18 oysters.

Mode. — Grate the bread very fine, and be careful that no large
lumps remain ; put it into a basin with the suet, which must be
very finely minced, or, when butter is used, that must be cut up into
small pieces. Add the herbs, also chopped as small as possible, and
seasoning; mix all these well together, until the ingredients are
thoroughly mingled. Open and beard the oysters, chop them, but not
too small, and add them to the other ingredients. Beat up the eggs,
and, with the hand, work altogether, until it is smoothly mixed. The
turkey should not be stuffed too full : if there should be too much
forcemeat, roll it into balls, fry them, and use them as a garnish.

Sufficient for 1 turkey.

OYSTER KETCHUP.

490. Ingredients. — Sufficient oysters to fill a pint measure, 1 pint
of sherry, 3 oz. of salt, 1 drachm of cayenne,’ 2 drachms of pounded
mace.

Mode. — Procure the oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to fill a
pint measure ; save the liquor, and scald the oysters i it with tho
sherry ; strain the oysters, and put them in a mortar with the salt,
cayenne, and mace ; pound the whole until reduced to a pulp, hen
add it to the liquor in which they were scalded ; boil it again five
minutes, and skim well ; rub the whole through a sieve, and, when
cold, bottle and cork closely. The corks should be sealed.

Seasonable from September to April.

Note. — Cidor maybe substituted for tbe sherry.

236

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

PICKLED OYSTERS.

49 1. Ingredients— 100 oysters ; to each h pint of vinegar, 1 Llade
of pounded mace, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 12 black peppercorns.

Mode. — Get the oysters in good condition, open them, place them in
a saucepan, and let them simmer in their own liquor for about 10
minutes, very gently ; then take them, out, one by one, and place
them in a jar, and cover them, when cold, with a pickle made as
follows Measure the oyster-liquor ; add to it the same quantity of
vinegar, with mace, lemon-peel, and pepper in the above proportion,
and boil it for 5 minutes ; when cold, pour over the oysters, and tie
them down very closely, as contact with the air spoils them.

Seasonable from September to April.

l\rDte.~Vat this pickle away in small jars ; because'directly one is opened, its
contents should immediately bo eaten, as they soon spoil. The pickle should
not be kept more than 2 or 3 months.

OYSTER SAUCE, to serve with. Eisk, Boiled Poultry, &c.

492. Ingredients.— 3 dozen oysters, i pint of melted butter, made
with milk, No. 380.

Mode. — Open the oysters carefully, and save their liquor ; strain it
into a clean saucepan (a lined one is best), put in the oysters, and let
them just come to the boiling-point, when they should look plump.
Take them off the fire immediately, and put the whole into a basin.
Strain the liquor from them, mix with it sufficient milk to make
i pint altogether, and follow the directions of No. 380. When the
melted butter is ready and very smooth, put in the oysters, which
should be previously bearded, if you wish the sauce to be really nice.
Set it by the side of the fire to get thoroughly hot, but do not alloio it
to boil, or the oysters will immediately harden. Using cream instead
of milk makes this sauce extremely delicious. When liked, add a
seasoning of cayenne, or anchovy sauce ; but, as we have before
stated, a plain sauce should be plain, and not be overpowered by
highly-flavoured essences ; therefore we recommend that the above
directions be implicitly followed, and no seasoning added.

Average cost for this quantity, 2s.

SvJjieicnt for G persons. Never allow fewer than 6 oysters to 1 person,
unless the party is very large.

Seasonable from September to April.

A rnoi o economical sauce may bo mado by using a Smaller quantity of oysters,
and not boarding them beforo thoy aro added to the sauco: this may answer

SAUCES, ETC.

237

he purpose, but we cannot undertake to recommend it as a mode of making
his delicious adjunct to fish, &c.

PARSLEY AJTD BUTTER, to serve -with Calf’s Head,
Boiled Fowls, &e.

1493. Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, § pint of
lelted butter, No. 376.

Mode. — Put into a saucepan a small quantity of water, slightly
alted, and when it boils, throw in a good bunch of parsley which
lus been previously washed and tied together in a bunch ; let it
coil for 5 minutes, drain it, mince the leaves very fine, and put the
ibove quantity in a tureen ; pour over it 5 pint of smoothly-made
jnelted butter ; stir once, that the ingredients may be thoroughly
mixed, and serve.

Time— 5 minutes to boil the parsley. Average cost, 4 cl.

Sufficient for 1 large fowl ; allow rather more for a pair.

Seasonable at any time.

, Note. — Sometimes, in the middle of wintev, parsley-leaves are not to be had,
Evhen the following will be found an excellent substitute: die up a little^

parsley-seed in a small piece of muslin, and boil it
for 10 minutes in a small quantity of water; use
this water to make the melted butter with, and
:hrow into it a little boiled spinach, minced rather
ine, which will have an appearance similar to that
Df parsley.

J Parsley.— If there be nothing new under the sun, there
ire, at any rate, different uses found for the same tiling ;
hr this pretty aromatic herb was used in ancient times,

13 we learn from mythological narrative, to adorn the head
of a hero, no less than Hercules; and now — was ever fall
jo great? — we moderns use it in connection with the head
if— a calf. According to Homer's “ Iliad,” warriors fed
;hcir chariot-steeds on parsley; and Pliny acquaints us I’Ajislky.

with the fact that, as a symbol of mourning, it was admitted

to furnish the funeral tables of the Romans. Egypt, some say, first produced (his herb ;
lienee it was introduced, by some unknown voyager, into Sardinia, where the Carthaginians
bund it, and made it known to the inhabitants of Marseilles. (See No. 123.)

FRIED PARSLEY, for Garnishing.

494. Ingredients. — Parsley, hot lard or clarified dripping,
ilfode.— Gather somo young parsley ; wash, pick, and dry it tho-
trougly in a cloth ; put it into the wire basket of which we have given
;an engraving, and hold it in boiling lard or dripping for a minute or
'two. Directly it is done, lift out the basket, and let it stand before the
dire, that the parsley may become thoroughly crisp ; and the quicker it

233

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

is fried, the better. Should the kitchen not be furnished with the

above article, throw the parsley into
the frying-pan, and when crisp, lift
it out with a slice, dry it before the
fire, and when thoroughly crisp, it
will be ready for use.

WIBE BASKET.

Wibb Basket. — For this recipe, a wire
basket, as shown in the annexed engraving, will be found very useful. It is very light
and handy, and may be used for other similar purposes besides that described above.

PARSLEY JUICE, for Colouring various Dishes.

495. Procure some nice young parsley; wash it and dry it thoroughly
in a cloth ; pound the leaves in a mortar till all the juice is extracted,
and put the juice in a teacup or small jar ; place this in a saucepan of
boiling water, and warm it on the bain marie principle just long
enough to take off its rawness ; let it drain, and it will be ready for
colouring.

TO PRESERVE PARSLEY THROUGH THE WINTER.

498. Use freshly -gathered parsley for keeping, and wash it perfectly
free from grit and dirt ; put it into boiling water which has been
slightly salted and well skimmed, and then let it boil for 2 or 3
minutes ; take it out, let it drain, and lay it on a sieve in front of the
fire, when it should be dried as expeditiously as possible. Store it
away in a very dry place in bottles, and when wanted for use, pour
over it a little warm water, and let it stand for about 5 minutes.

Seasonable. — This may be done at any time between June and
October.

AN EXCELLENT PICKLE.

497. Ingkedients.— Equal quantities of medium-sized onions,
cucumbers, and sauce-apples ; 1| teaspoonful of salt, 3 tcaspoonful of
cayenne, 1 wineglassful of soy, 1 wineglassful of sherry ; vinegar.

Mode. — Slice sufficient cucumbers, onions, and apples to fill a pint ( <
stone jar, taking care to cut the slices very thin; arrange them in
alternate layers, shaking in as you proceed salt and cayenne in the
above proportion ; pour in the soy and wine, and fill up with vinegar.

It will be fit for use the day it is made.

Seasonable in August and September.

[This recipe was forwarded to the editress of this work by a subscriber to the
“ Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine.” Mrs. Bocton, not having lestod it,
cannot vouch lor its excellenco ; but tho contributor spoke very highly in its
favour.]

SAUCES, ETC.

239

Sot. — This is a sauce frequently made use of for fish, and comes from Japan, where
it is prepared from the seeds of a plant called Doliclios Soja. The Chinese also manu-
facture it; but that made by the Japanese is said to be the best. All sorts of statements
have been made respecting the very general adulteration of this article in England, and
we fear that many of them are too true. When genuine, it is of an agreeable flavour,
thick, and of a clear brown colour.

PICKLED EED CABBAGE.

498. Ingredients. — Red cabbages, salt and water ; to each quart
of vinegar, f oz. of ginger well bruised, 1 oz. of whole black pepper,
and, when liked, a little cayenne.

Mode. — Take off the outside decayed leaves of a nice red cabbage,
cut it in quarters, remove the stalks, and cut it across in very thin
slices. Lay these on a dish, and strew them plentifully with salt,
covering them with another dish. Let them remain for 24 hours, turn
into a colander to drain, and, if necessary, wipe lightly with a clean
soft cloth. Put them in a jar; boil up the vinegar with spices in
the above proportion, and, when cold, pour it over the cabbage. It
will be fit for use in a week or two, and, if kept for a very long time,
the cabbage is liable get soft and to discolour. To be really nice and
crisp, and of a good red colour, it should be eaten almost immediately
after it is made. A little bruised cochineal boiled with the vinegar
adds much to the appearance of this pickle. Tie down with bladder,
and keep in a dry place.

Seasonable in July and August, hut the piokle will be much more
crisp if the frost has just touched the leaves.

Red Cabbage. — This plant, in its growth, is similar in form to that of the white, but
ia of a bluish-purple colour, which, however, turns red on the application of acid, as is
: the case with all vegetable blues. It is principally from the white vegetable that the
Germans make their sauerkraut ; a dish held in such high estimation with the inhabitants
of vaderland, but which requires, generally speaking, with strangers, a long acquaintance
in order to become sufficiently impressed with its numerous merits. The large red
1 Dutch is the kind generally recommended for pickling,

PLUM-PUD DIN Gr SAUCE.

499. Ingredients. — 1 wineglassful of brandy, 2 oz. of very fresh
butter, 1 glass of Madeira, pounded sugar to taste.

Mode. — Put the pounded sugar in a basin, with part of the brandy
and the butter ; let it stand by the side of the fire until it is wax*m
and the sugar and butter are dissolved ; then add the rest of the
brandy, with the Madeira. Either pour it over the pudding, or serve
in a tureen. This is a very rich and excellent sauce.

Average cost, Is. 3d. for this quantity.

Sufficient for a pudding made for 6 persons.

QUIN’S SAUCE, an excellent Fish Sauce.

5°°. Ingredients. — £ piut of walnut pickle, £ pint of port wine,

210

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOICEUY.

1 pint of mushroom ketchup, 1 dozen anchovies, 1 dozen shalots,
£ pint of soy, teaspoonful of cayenne.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, having previously
chopped the shalots and anchovies very small ; simmer for 15 minutes,
strain, and, when cold, bottle off for use : the corks should be well
sealed to exclude the air.

Time. — j hour.

Seasonable at any time.

RAVIGOTTE, a Erencli Salad Sauce.

Mans. Ude’s Recipe.

501. Ingredients. — 1 teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, l tea-
spoonful of cavice, 1 teaspoonful of Chili vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of
Reading sauce, a piece of butter the size of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls
of thick Bechamel, No. 367, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 3
tablespoonfuls of cream ; salt and pepper to taste.

Mode. — Scald the parsley, mince the leaves very fine, and add it to
all the other ingredients ; after mixing the whole together thoroughly,
the sauce will be ready for use.

Average cost, for this quantity, 10 d.

Seasonable at any time.

READING SAUCE.

502. Ingredients. — 2-£ pints of walnut pickle, 1| oz. of shalots,
1 quart of spring water, f pint of Indian soy, i oz. of bruised ginger,
-J oz. of long pepper, 1 oz. of mustard-seed, 1 anchovy, § oz. of
cayenne, £ oz. of dried sweet bay-leaves.

Mode. — Bruise the shalots in a mortar, and put them in a stone jar
with the walnut-liquor ; place it before the fire, and let it boil until
reduced to 2 pints. Then, into another jar, put all the ingredients
except the bay-leaves, taking care that they are well bruised, so that
tho flavour may be thoroughly extracted ; put this also before the fire,
and let it boil for 1 hour, or rather more. When the contents of both
jars are sufficiently cooked, mix them together, stirring them well
as you mix them, and submit them to a slow boiling for -J hour ; cover
closely, and let them stand 24 hours in a cool place ; then open tho
jar and add the bay-leaves ; let it stand a week longer closed down,
when strain through a flannel bag, and it will be ready for use. Tho
above quantities will make i gallon.

Time. — Altogether, 3 hours.

Seasonable. — This sauce may be made at any time.

SAUCES, ETC.

241

SEMOULADE, or FRENCH SALAD-DRESSING.

503. Ingredients. — 4 eggs, k tablespoonful of made mustard,

salt and cayenne to taste, 3 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, 1 tablespoonful
of tarragon or plain vinegar.

Mode. — Boil 3 eggs quite hard for about \ hour, put them into
cold water, and let them remain in it for a few minutes ; strip off
the shells, put the yolks in a mortar, and pound them very smoothly ;
add to them, very gradually, the mustard, seasoning, and vinegar,
keeping all well stirred and rubbed down with the back of a wooden
spoon. Put in the oil drop by drop, and when this is thoroughly mixed
with the other ingredients, add the yolk of a raw egg, and stir well,
when it will be ready for use. This sauce should not be curdled ; and
to prevent this, the only way is to mix a little of everything at a
time, and not to cease stirring. The quantities of oil and vinegar
may be increased or diminished according to taste,
as many persons would prefer a smaller proportion
of the former ingredient.

Green Bejtotjlade is made by using tarragon
vinegar instead of plain, and colouring with a
little parsley-juice, No. 495. Harvey’s sauce, or
Chili vinegar, may be added at pleasure.

Time. — | hour to boil the eggs.

Average cost, for this quantity, 7 d.

Sufficient for a salad made for 4 or 6 persons.

Tarragon. — The leaves of this plant, known to naturalists
as Artemisia dracunculus, are much used in France as a
flavouring ingredient for salads. From it also is made the
vinegar known as tarragon vinegar, which is employed by the French in mixing their
mustard. It originally comes fronUTartary, and does not seed in France.

SAGE-AND-ONION STUFFING, for Geese, Ducks, and Fork.

504. Ingredients.— 4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, £ lb. of bread
crumbs, 1§ oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.

! Mode.— Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them
simmer for 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they are taken
out, put in the sage-leaves for a minute or two to take off their raw-
ness. Chop both these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and
butter, and work the whole together with the yolk of an egg, when
the stuffing will be ready for use. It should be rather highly seasoned,
and the sage-leaves should be very finely chopped. Many cooks do
not parboil the onions in the manner just stated, but merely use them

242

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

raw. The stuffing then, however, is not nearly so mild, and, to many
tastes, its strong flavour would be very objectionable. When made for
goose, a portion of the liver of the bird, simmered for a few minutes
and very finely minced, is frequently added to this stuffing ; and
where economy is studied, the egg may be dispensed with.

Time. — Rather more than 5 minutes to simmer the onions.

Average cost, for this quantity, 4 cl.

Sufficient for 1 goose, or a pair of ducks.

505. Soyer’s Recipe for Goose Stuffing.— Take 4 apples, peeled and
cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, and 4 leaves of lemon thyme not broken, and
boil them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them ; when done, pulp
them through a sieve, removing the sage and thyme ; then add sufficient pulp
of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry without sticking to the
hand ; add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird.

SALAD DRESSING (Excellent).

506. Ingredients. — 1 teaspoonsful of mixed mustard, 1 teaspoonful
of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of
milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, cayenne and salt taste.

Mode. — Put the mixed mustard into a salad-bowl with the sugar,
and add the oil drop by drop, carefully stirring and mixing all these
ingredients well together. Proceed in this manner with the milk and
vinegar, which must be added very gradually, or the sauce will
curdle. Put in the seasoning, when the mixture will be ready for
use. If this dressing is properly made, it will have a soft creamy
appearance, and will be found very delicious with crab, or cold
fried fish (the latter cut into dice), as well as with salads. In mixing
salad dressings, the ingredients cannot be added too gradually, or
stirred too much.

Average cost, for this quantity, 3d.

Sufficient for a small salad.

This recipo can bo confidently recommended by the editress, to whom it was
given by an intimate friend noted for her salads.

ScAitcrry of Salads in England.— Throe centuries ago, very few vegetables wore
cultivated in England, and an author writing of the period of Henry VI II. 's reign, tells
us that neither salad, nor carrots, nor cabbages, nor radishes, nor any other comestibles
of a like nat ure, were grown in any part of t no kingdom : they came Irom Holland ana
Flanders. We further learn, that Queen Catharine herself, with all her royalty, could
not procure a salad of English growth for her dinner. The king was obliged to mend
this Hiul state of affairs. and send to Holland for a gardener in order to cultivate those
pot-herbs, in the growth of which England is now, perhaps, not behind any other coun-
try in Europe.

SAUCES, ETC.

243

The Olitb and Olive Oil. — This tree assumes a high“de^ree of interest from the
historical circumstances with which it is connected. A leaf ot it was brought into the
ark by the dove, when that vessel was still floating on the
waters of the great deep, and gave the first token that the
deluge was subsiding. Among the Greeks, the prize of
the victor in the Olympic games was a wreath of wild
olive; and the “ Mount of Olives” is rendered familiar
to our ears by its being mentioned in the Scriptures as
near to Jerusalem. The tree is indigenous in the north
of Africa, Syria, and Greece; and the Romans introduced
it to Italy. In Spain aud the south of Prance it is now
cultivated ; and although it grow3 in England, its fruit
does not ripen in the open air. Both in Greece and Por-
tugal the fruit is eaten in its ripe state ; but its taste is
not agreeable to many palates. To the Italian shepherd,
bread and olives, with a little wine, form a nourishing
diet ; but in England, olives are usually only introduced
by way of dessert, to destroy the taste of the viands which
have been previously eaten, that the flavour of the wine
may be the better enjoyed. There are three kinds of
olives imported to London, — the French, Spanish, and
Italian : the first are from Provence, aud are generally
accounted excellent ; the second are larger, but more bitter ; and the last are from
Lucca, and are esteemed the best. The oil extracted from olives, called olive oil, or
salad oil, is, with the continentals, in continual request, more dishes being prepared with
than without it, we should imagino. With us, it is principally used in mixing a salad,
and when thus employed, it tends to preveut fermentation, and is an antidote against
flatulency.

THE OLIVE.

507. Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, \ tea-
spoonful of white pepper, half that quantity of cayenne, salt to taste,
4 tablespoonfuls of cream, vinegar.

Mode. — Boil the eggs until hard, which will he in about i hour or
20 minutes ; put them into cold water, take off the shells, and pound
the yolks in a mortar to a smooth paste. Then add all the other
1 ingredients, except the vinegar, and stir them well until the whole
are thoroughly incorporated one with the other. Pour in sufficient
vinegar to make it of the consistency of cream, taking care to add
hut little at a time. Theunixture will then be ready for use.

Average cost, for this quantity, 7 d.

Sufficient for a moderate-sized salad.

Note. — The whites of the eggs, cut into rings, will servo very well as a
j garnishing to the salad.

III.

508. Ingredients.— 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of salad oil, 1 tcaspoonful
of mixed mustard, £ teaspoonful of salt, £ teaspoonful of pounded
sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream.

Mode. Prepare and mix the ingredients by the preceding recipe,
and be very particular that the whole is well stirred.

Note. In making salads, the vegetables, &c., should never bo addod to tho
sauce very long before they are wantod for tablo ; tho dressing, however, may

n 2

244

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

always be prepared some hours before required. Where salads are much iu
request, it is a good plan to bottle off sufficient dressing for a few days’ con-
sumption, as, thereby, much time and trouble are saved. If kept in a cool
place, it will remain good for 4 or 5 days.

Poetic Recipe foe Salad.— The Rev. Sydney Smith, the witty canon of St. Paul’s,
who thought that an enjoyment of the good things of this earth was compatible with
aspirations for tilings higher, wrote the following excellent recipe for salad, which we
should advise our readers not to pass by without a trial, when the hot weather invites to
a dish of cold lamb. May they find the flavour equal to the rhyme. —

“ Two large potatoes, pass’d through kitchen sieve.

Smoothness and softness to the salad give :

Of mordent mustard add a single spoou,

Distrust the condiment that bites too soon ;

But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault,

To add a double quantity of salt :

Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, •

And twice with vinegar procured from ‘ town;’

True flavour needs it, and your poet begs,

The pounded yellow of two well-boil’d eggs.

Let onion’s atoms lurk within the bowl,

And, scarce suspected, animate the whole ;

And, lastly, in the flavour’d compound toss
A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce.

Oh ! great and glorious, ana herbaceous treat,

’Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat.

Back to the wrorld he’d turn his weary soul,

And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl.”

SAUCE ALLEMAKDE, or GERMAN SAUCE.

509. Ingredients. — § pint of sauce tournee (No. 517), the yolks
of 2 eggs.

Mode. — Put the sauce into a stewpan, heat it, ■and stir to it the
beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which have been previously strained. Let it
just simmer, but not boil, or the eggs will curdle ; and after they are
added to the sauce, it must he stirred without ceasing. This sauce is a
general favourite, and is used for many made dishes.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer.

Average cost, 6 d.

SAUCE ARISTOCRATIQUE (a Store Sauce).

510. Ingredients.— Green walnuts. To every pint of juice, 1 lb. j
of anchovies, 1 drachm of cloves, 1 drachm of mace, 1 drachm of
Jamaica ginger bruised, 8 shalots. To every pint of the boiled .
liquor, 2 pint of vinegar,'! pint of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls ;
of soy.

Mode. — Pound the walnuts in a mortar, squeeze out the juice 1
through a strainer, and let it stand to settle. Pour oft the clear juice,
and to every pint of it, add anchovies, spices, and cloves in the above
proportion. Boil all these together till the anchovies are dissolved,
then strain the juice again, put in the shalots (8 to every pint), and

SAUCES, ETC.

245

boil again. To every pint of the boiled liquor add vinegar, wine, and
soy, in the above quantities, and bottle off for use. Cork well, and
seal the corks.

Seasonable.— Make this sauce from the beginning to 'the middle of
July, when walnuts are in perfection for sauces and pickling.

Average cost, 3s. 6d. for a quart.

Manufacture of Sauces. — In France, during tlie reign of Louis XII., at the latter
end of tlie 14th century, there was formed a company of sauce-manufacturers, who
obtained, in those days of monopolies, the exclusive privilege of malting sauces. The
statutes drawn up by this company inform us that the famous sauce a la eameline,

I sold by them, was to be composed of “ good cinnamon, good ginger, good cloves, good
grains of paradise, good bread, and good vinegar.” The sauce Tence, was to be
made of ‘‘good sound almonds, good ginger, good wine, and good verjuice.” May we
respectfully express a hope — not that we desire to doubt it in the least — that the English
sauce-manufacturers of the 19th century are equally considerate and careful in choosing
i their 'ingredients for their various well-known preparations.

♦

SAUCE A L’AUBORE, for Trout, Soles, &e.

511. Ingredients. — The spawn of 1 lobster, 1 oz. of butter, i pint
of Bechamel (No. 367), the juice of f lemon, a high seasoning of salt
and cayenne.

Mode. — Take the spawn and pound it in a mortar with the butter,
until quite smooth, and work it through a hair sieve. Put the
Bechamel into a stewpan, add the pounded spawn, the lemon-juice,
which must he strained, and a plentiful seasoning of cayenne and
; salt; let it just simmer, but do not allow it to boil, or the beautiful
red colour of the sp,uce will be spoiled. A small spoonful of anchovy
essence may be added at pleasure.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer. Average cost, for this quantity, Is.

Sufficient for a pair of large soles.

Seasonable at any time.

SAUCE A LA MATELOTE, for Eish.

512. Ingredients. — | pint of Espagnole (No. 411), 3 onions, 2 table-
spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, f glass of port wine, a hunch of sweet
herbs, | bay -leaf, salt and pepnm- to taste, 1 clove, 2 berries of allspice,
a little liquor in which the fish has been boiled, lemon -juice, and
anchovy sauce.

Mode. Slice and fry the onions of a nice brown colour, and put
them into a stewpan with the Espagnole, ketchup, wine, and a little
liquor in which the fish has been boiled. Add tho seasoning, herbs,
and spices, and simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring well the whole
time ; strain it through a fine hair sieve, put in the lemon-juice
and anchovy sauce, and pour it over the fish. This sauce may be
very much enriched by adding a few small quenelles, or forcemeat

246

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

balls made of iisb, and also glazed onions or mushrooms. These,
however, should not be added to the matelote till it is dished.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, Is. Gd.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — This sauce originally took its name as being similar to that which
the French sailor ( matelot ) employed as a relish to the fish he caught and
ate. In some cases, cider and perry were substi-
tuted for the wine. The Norman matelotes were
very celebrated.

The Bay. — We have already described (see No. 180) the
difference between the cherry -laurel (Frunus Laurus cerasus)
and the classic laurel (Zunrus volilit), the former only being
used for culinary purposes. The latter beautiful evergreen
was consecrated by the ancients to priests and heroes, and
used in their sacrifices. “A crown of bay” was the earnestly-
desired reward for great Enterprises, and for the display of
uncommon genius in oratory or writing. It was more par-
ticularly sacred to Apollo, because, according to the fable,
the nymph Daphne was changed into a laurel-tree. The
ancients believed, too, that the laurel had the power of com-
municating t he gift of prophecy, as well as poetic genius;
and, when they wished to procure pleasant dreams, would
place a sprig under the pillow of their bed. It was the
symbol, too, of victory', and it was thought that the laurel
could never be struck by lightning. From this word comes
that of “laureate;” Alfred Tennyson being the present poet laureate, crowned with
laurel as the first of living bards.

SAUCE FIQUANTE, for Cutlets, Eoast Meat, &e.

513- Ingredients. — 2 oz. of butter, 1 small carrot, 6 shalots, 1 small
bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, 5 a bay-leaf, 2 slices of
lean bam, 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, 1 blade of mace, 3 whole allspice, 4
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, § pint of stock (No. 104 or 105), 1 small
lump of sugar, I saltspoonful of cayenne, salt to taste.

Mode. — Put into a stewpan the butter, with the carrot and shalots,
both of which must be cut into small slices ; add the herbs, bay-leaf,
spices, and ham (which must be minced rather finely), and let these
ingredients simmer over a slow fire, until the bottom of the stewpan is
covered with a brown glaze. Keep spring with a wooden spoon, and
put in the remaining ingredients. Simmer very gently for I hour,
skim off every particle of fat, strain the sauce through a sieve, and
serve very hot. Care must be taken that this sauce be not made too
acid, although it should possess a sharpness indicated by its name.
Of course the above quantity of vinegar may be increased or diminished
at pleasure, according to taste.

Time. — Altogether § hour. Average cost, 10 o'.

Sufficient for a medium-sized dish of cutlets.

Seasonable at any time.

SAUCES, ETC.

247

A GOOD SATTCE POE VARIOUS BOILED PUDDINGS.

514. Ingredients.— $ lb. of butter, 3 lb. of pounded sugar, a wine-
glassful of brandy or rum.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream, until no lumps remain ; add the
pounded sugar, and brandy or rum ; stir once or twice until the whole
is thoroughly mixed, and serve. This sauce may either be poured
round the pudding or served in a tureen, according to the taste or
fancy of the cook or mistress.

Average cost, 8 d. for this quantity.

Sufficient for a pudding.

SAUCE ROBERT, for Steaks, &c.

515. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 teaspoonful of flour,
•4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, or stock No. 105, salt and pepper to taste,
1 teaspoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, the juice of
i lemon.

Mode. — Put the butter into a stewpan, set it on the fire, and, when
browning, throw in the onions, which must be cut into small slices.
Fry them brown, but do not burn them ; add the flour, shake the
onions in it, and give the whole another fry. Put in the gravy and
seasoning, and boil it gently for 10 minutes ; skim off the fat, add the
mustard, vinegar, and lemon-juice ; give it one boil, and pour round
the steaks, or whatever dish the sauce has been prepared for.

Time. — Altogether J hour. Average cost, for this quantity, Qd.

Seasonable at any time.

Sufficient for about 2 lbs. of steak.

Note. — This sauce will be found an excellent accompaniment to roast goose,
pork, mutton cutlets, and various other dishes.

A GOOjD SAUCE EOR STEAKS.

516. Ingredients. — 1 oz. of whole black pepper, i oz. of allspice,
1 oz. of salt, j oz. grated horseradish, h oz. of pickled shalots, 1 pint
of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle.

Mode. — Pound all the ingredients finely in a mortar, and put them
into the ketchup or walnut-liquor. Let them stand for a fortnight,
when strain off the liquor and bottle for use. Either pour a little of
the sauce over the steaks or mix it in the gravy.

Seasonable. — This can bo made at any time.

Note. In using a jar of picklod walnuts, there is frequently left a largo

248

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

quantity of liquor ; this should be converted into a sauce like the above, and
will be found a very useful relish.

The Ghowth of the Pepper-Plant.— Our readers will see at Nos. 369 aud 399, a
description, with engravings, of the qualities of black and long pepper, and an account
of where these spices are found. W e will here say something of the manner of the
growth of the pepper-plant. Like the vine, it requires support, and it is usual to plant
a thorny tree by its side, to which it may qling. In Malabar, the chief pepper district
of India, the jacea-tree (Artocarpus integrifolia) is made thus to yield its assistance,
the same soil being adapted to the growth of both plants. The stem of the pepper-
plant entwines round its support to a considerable height; the flexile branches then
droop downwards, bearing at their extremities, as well as at other parts, spikes of green
flowers, which are followed by the pungent berries. These hang in largo bunc-hes,
resembling in shape those of grapes ; but the fruit grows distinct, each on a little stalk,
like currants. Each berry contains a single seed, of a globular form and brownish colour,
but which changes to a nearly black when dried ; ana this is the pepper of commerce.
The leaves are not unlike those of the ivy, but are larger and of rather a lighter colour ;
they partake strongly of the peculiar smell and pungent taste of the berry.

SAUCE-TOUBNEE.

517. Ingredients. — 1 pint of white stock (No. 107), thickening of
flour and butter, or white roux (No. 52G), a faggot of savoury herbs,
including parsley, 6 chopped mushrooms, 6 green onions.

Mode. — Put the stock into a stewpan with the herbs, onions, and
mushrooms, and let it simmer very gently for about 3 hour ; stir in
sufficient thickening to make it of a proper consistency ; let it boil for
a few minutes, then skim off all the fat, strain and serve. This sauce,
with the addition of a little cream, is now frequently called veloute.

Time. — i hour. Average cost, for this quantity, 6d.

Note. — If poultry trimmings are at band, the stock should be made of these;
and the above sauce should not be made too thick, as it does not then admit
of the fat being nicely removed.

SWEET SAUCE, for Venison.

518. Ingredients. — A small jar of red-currant jelly, 1 glass of
port wine.

Mode. — Put the above ingredients into a stewpan, set them over
the fire, and, when melted, pour in a tureen and serve. It should not
be allowed to boil.

Time. — 5 minutes to melt the jelly.

Average cost, for this quantity, Is.

SAUCE FOR WILDFOWL.

519. Ingredients. — 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful of
Leamington sauce (No. 469), 1 tablcspoonful of mushroom ketchup,
1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 slice of lemon-peel, 1 large shalot
cut in slices, 1 blade of mace, cayenne to taste.

Mode— Put all the ingredients info a stewpan, set it over flic fire,

210

sauces, etc.

and let it simmer for about 5 minutes; then strain and serve the
sauce in a tureen. ^

Time. — 5 minutes. Average cost, for this quantity, 8 <7.

SATJSAGE-MEAT STUFFING, for Turkey.

520. Ingredients. — 6 oz. of lean pork, 6 oz. of fat pork, both
, weighed after being chopped (beef suet may be substituted for the

latter), 2 oz. of bread crumbs, 1 small tablespoonful of minced sage,
1 blade of pounded mace, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.

Mode. — Cho'p the meat and fat very finely, mix with them the other
ingredients, taking care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated.
Moisten with the egg, and the stuffing will be ready for use. Equal
quantities of this stuffing and forcemeat, No. 417, will be found to
answer very well, as the herbs, lemon-peel, &c. in the latter, impart a
very delicious flavour to the sausage-meat. As preparations, how-
ever, like stuffings and forcemeats, are matters to be decided by
individual tastes, they must be left, to a great extent, to the dis-
crimination of the cook, who should study her employer’s taste iu
this, as in every other respect.

A verage cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for a small turkey.

SAVOURY JELLY FOR MEAT PIES.

521. Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of shin of beef, 1 calf’s-foot, 3 lbs. of
knuckle of veal, poultry trimmings (if for game pies, any game trim-
mings), 2 onions stuck with cloves, 2 carrots, 4 shalots, a bunch of
savoury herbs, 2 bay-leaves ; when liked, 2 blades of mace and a little
spice ; 2 slices of lean ham, rather more than 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Cut up the meat and put it into a stewpan with all the
ingredients except the water ; set it over a slow fire to draw down,
and,- when the gravy ceases to flow from the meat, pour in the water.
Let it boil up, then carefully take away all scum from the top;
Cover the stewpan closely, and let the stock simmer very gently for
4 hours : if rapidly boiled, the jelly will not be clear. When done,
strain it through a fine sieve or flannel bag ; and when cold, the jelly
should be quite transparent. If this is not the case, clarify it with
the whites of eggs, as described in recipe No. 109.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, for this quantity, 5s.

SHRIMP SAUCE, for Various Kinds of Fish.

522. Ingredients.— J pint of melted butter (No. 376), £ pint of
picked shrimps, cayenne to taste.

250 MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — Make the melted butter very smoothly by recipe No. 376,
shell the shrimps (sufficient to make \ pint when picked), and put
them into the butter ; season with cayenne, and let the sauce just
simmer, hut do not allow it to boil. When liked, a teaspoonful of
anchovy sauce may be added.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer. Average cost , 6 cl.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

SPINACH GREEN FOR COLOURING VARIOUS DISHES.

523. Ingredients.— 2 handfuls of spinach.

Mode. — Pick and wash the spinach free from dirt, and pound the
leaves in a mortar to extract the juice; then press it through a hair
sieve, and put the juice into a small stewpan or jar. Place this in a bain
marie, or saucepan of boiling water, and let it set. Watch it closely,
as it should not boil ; and, as soon as it is done, lay it in a sieve, so that
all the water may drain from it, and the green will then be ready for
colouring. If made according to this recipe, the spinach-green will be
found far superior to that boiled in the ordinary way.

HOT SPICE, a Delicious Adjunct to Chops, Steaks, Gravies, &c.

524. Ingredients. — 3 drachms each of ginger, black pepper, and
cinnamon, 7 cloves, oz. mace, 5 oz. of cayenne, 1 oz. grated nutmeg,
oz. white pepper. .

Mode. — Pound the ingredients, and mix them thoroughly together,
taking care that everything is well blended. Put the spice in a very dry

glass bottle for use. The quantity of cayenne
may be increased, should the above not be
enough to suit the palate.

Cinnamon. —The cinnamon-tree ( Laurus Cinnavio-
mum) is a valuable amt beautiful species of the laurel
family, and grows to the height of 20 or 30 feet. The
trunk is short and straight, with wide-spreading branches,
and it has a smooth ash-like bark. The leaves are
upon short stalks, and ar%of an oval shape, and 3 to 5
inches long. The flowers are in panicles, with six small
petals, and the fruit is about the size of an olive, soft,
insipid, and of a deep blue. This incloses a nut, the
kernel of which germinates soon after it falls. The wood
of the tree is white and not. very solid, and its root is
thick and branching, exuding a great quantity of cam-
phor. The inner bark of the tree forms the cinnamon of
commerce. Ceylon was thought to be its native island;
but it has been found in Malabar, Cochin-China, Sumatra, and the Eastern Islands ; also
in the Brazils, the Mauritius, Jamaica, and other tropical localities.

CINNAMON.

BROWN. ROUX, a French Thickening for Gravies and Sauces.

525. Ingredients.— 6 oz. of butter, 9 oz. of Hour.

Mode.-liM the butter in a stewpan over a slow fire, and

SAUCES, ETC.

251

dredge in, very gradually, the flour ; stir it till of a light-brown
colour— to obtain this do it very slowly, otherwise the flour will burn
and impart a bitter taste to the sauce it is mixed with. Pour it in a
jar, and keep it for use : it will remain good some time.

Time. — About 5 hour. Average cost, 7 d.

WHITE EOUX, for thickening White Sauces.

526. Allow the same proportions of butter and flour as in the
preceding recipe, and proceed in the same manner as for brown roux,
but do not keep it on the fire too long, and take care not to let it colour.
This is used for thickening white sauce. Pour it into a jar to use
when wanted. *

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, id.

Sufficient. — A dessertspoonful will thicken a pint of gravy.

Note. — Besides the above, sauces may be thickened with potato flour, ground
• rice, baked flour-, arrowroot, &c. : the latter will be found far preferable to the
ordinary flour for white sauces. A slice of bread, toasted and added to gravies,,
answers the two purposes of thickening and colouring them.

SPANISH ONION S— PICKLED.

527. Ingredients. — Onions, vinegar ; salt and cayenne to taste.

Mode. — Cut the onions in thin slices ; put a layer of them in the
bottom of a jar ; sprinkle with salt and cayenne ; then add anothei*
layer of onions, and season as before. Proceeding in this manner till
the jar is full, pour in sufficient vinegar to cover the whole, and the
pickle will be fit for use in a month.

Seasonable. — May be had in England from September to February.

STORE SAHCE, or CHEROKEE.

528. Ingredients.— | oz. of cayenne pepper, 5 cloves of garlic,
tablespoonfuls of soy, 1 tablespoonful of walnut ketchup, l pint of
vinegar.

Mode. Boil all the ingredients gently for about ^ hour ; strain the
liquor, and bottle off for use. *

Time, — £ hour.

Seasonable. —This sauce can be made at any time.

TOMATO SAUCE-HOT, to serve with Cutlets, Roast Meats, &c.

529. Ingredients. — 6 tomatoes, 2 shalots, 1 clove, 1 blade of

252

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

mace, salt and cayenne to taste, \ pint of gravy, No. 436, or stock
No. 104.

Mode.— Cut the tomatoes in two, and squeeze the juice and seeds
out ; put them in a stewpan with all the ingredients, and let them
simmer gently until the tomatoes are tender enough to pulp ; rub the
whole through a sieve, boil it for a few minutes,
and serve. The shalots and spices may be omitted
when their flavour is objected to.

Time. — 1 hour, or rather more, to simmer the
tomatoes.

Average cost, for this quantity, Is.

In full season in September and October.

’ Tomato, or Love-Apple. — The plant which hears this fruit
is a native of South America, and tabes its name from a
Portuguese word. The tomato fruit is about the size of a
small potato, and is chiefly used in soups, sauces, and gravies.

THE TOMATO. It is sometimes served to table roasted or boiled, and when

green, makes a good ketchup or pickle. In its unripe state, it
is esteemed as excellent sauce for roast goose or pork, anti when cpiite ripe, a good store
canoe may be prepared from it. '

TOMATO SAUCE POE KEEPING (Excellent).

530. Ingredients. — To every quart of tomato-pulp allow 1 pint of
cayenne vinegar (No. 386), f oz. of shalots, $ oz. of garlic, peeled and
cut iu slices ; salt to taste. To every six quarts of liquor, 1 pint of
soy, 1 pint of anchovy sauce.

Mode. — Gather the tomatoes quite ripe ; hake them in a slow oven
till tender ; rub them through a sieve, and to every quart of pulp add
cayenne vinegar, shalots, garlic, and salt, in the above proportion ;
boil the whole together till the garlic and shalots are quite soft ; then
rub it through a sieve, put it again into a saucepan, and, to every
six quarts of the liquor, add 1 pint of soy and the same quantity of
anchovy sauce, and boil altogether for about 20 minutes ; bottle oft
for use, and carefully seal or rosin the corks. This will keep good ior
2 or 3 years, but will he fit for use in a week. A useful aud less
expensive sauce may be made by omitting the anchovy and soy.

Time. — Altogether 1 hour.

Seasonable. — Make this from the middle of September to the end of
October.

ii.

531. Ingredients. — 1 dozen tomatoes, 2 tcaspoonfuls of the best
powdered ginger, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 head of garlic chopped

S.YCCES, ETC.

253

fine, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful of Chili vinegar (a
small quantity of cayenne may be substituted for this) .

Mode. — Choose ripe tomatoes, put them into a stone jar, and stand
them in a cool oven until quite tender ; when cold, take the skins and
stalks from them, mix the pulp with the liquor which is in the jar,
but do not strain it ; add all the other ingredients, mix well together,
and put it into well-scaled bottles. Stored away in a cool dry place, it
will keep good for years. It is ready for use as soon as made, but the
flavour is better after a week or two. Should it not appear to keep,
turn it out, and boil it up with a little additional ginger and cayenne.
For immediate use, the skins should be put into a wide-mouthed bottle
with a little of the different ingredients, and they will be found very
nice for hashes or stews.

Time. — 4 or 5 hours in a cool oven.

Seasonable from the middle of September to the end of October.

in.

532. Ingredients. — 3 dozen tomatoes ; to every pound of tomato-
pulp allow 1 pint of Chili vinegar, 1 oz. of garlic, 1 oz. of shalot, 2 oz.
of salt, 1 large green capsicum, \ teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 pickled
gherkins, 6 pickled onions, 1 pint of common vinegar, and the juice of
6 lemons.

Mode. — Choose the tomatoes when quite ripe and red ; put them in a
jar with a cover to it, and bake them till tender. The better way is to
put them in the oven overnight, when it will not be too hot, and
examine them in the morning to see if they are tender. Do not allow
them to remain in the oven long enough to break them ; but thev
should be sufficiently soft to skin nicely and rub through the sieve".
Measure the pulp, and to each pound of pulp, add the above propor-
tion of vinegar and other ingredients, talcing care to chop very fine
the garlic, shalot, capsicum, onion, and gherkins. Boil the whole
together till everything is tender; then again rub it through a
sieve, and add the lemon-juice. Fow boil the whole again till
J it becomes as thick as cream, and keep continually stirring ;
j bottle it when quite cold, cork well, and seal the corks. If the
: flavour of garlic and shalot is very much disliked, diminish the
j quantities.

Time. — Bake the tomatoes in a cool oven all night.

Seasonable from the middle of September to the end of October.

Note.— A quantity of liquor will How from the tomatoes, which must bo put
i through the siovo with tho rest. Keep it well stirred while on the lire, and
: use a wooden spoon.

254

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

UNIVERSAL PICKLE.

533- Ingredients. — To 6 quarts of vinegar allow 1 lb. of salt, 1 lb.
of ginger, 1 oz. of mace, £ lb. of shalots, 1 tablespoonful of cayenne,

2 oz. of mustard-seed, l£ oz. of turmeric.

Mode. — Boil all the ingredients together for about 20 minutes;
when cold, put them into a jar with whatever vegetables you choose,
such as radish-pods, French beans, cauliflowers, gherkins, &c. &c., as
these come into season ; put them in fresh as you gather them, having
previously wiped them perfectly free from moisture and grit. This
pickle will be fit for use in about 8 or 9 months.

Time. — 20 minutes.

Seasonable. — Make the pickle in May or June, to be ready for the *
various vegetables.

Note. — As this pickle takes 2 or 3 months to make, — that is to say, nearly
that time will elapse before all the different vegetables are added, — care must bo
taken to keep the jar which contains the pickle well covered, either with a
closely-fitting lid, or a piece of bladder securely tied over, so as perfectly to
exclude the air.

PICKLED WALNUTS (Very Good).

534. Ingredients. — 100 walnuts, salt and water. To each quart of ,
vinegar allow 2 oz. of whole black pepper, 1 oz. of allspice, 1 oz. of
bruised ginger.

Mode. — Procure the walnuts while young ; be careful they are not ■
woody, and prick them well with a fork ; prepare a strong brine of ;
salt and water (4 lbs. of salt to each gallon of water), into which put
the walnuts, letting them remain 9 days, and changing the brine
every third day ; drain them off, put them on a dish, place it in
the sun until they become perfectly black, which will be in 2 or 3
days ; have ready dry jars, into which place the walnuts, and do not
quite fill the jars. Boil sufficient vinegar to cover them, for 10
minutes, with spices in the above proportion, and pour it hot over the
walnuts, which must be quite covered with the pickle ; tie down with
bladder, and keep in a dry place. They will be fit for use in a month,
and will keep good 2 or 3 years.

Time. — 10 minutes.

Seasonable. — Make this from the beginning to the middle of July,
before the walnuts harden.

Note. — When liked, a few slialots may bo added to tko vinegar, and boiled
with it.

SAUCES, ETC.

255

WALNUT KETCHUP.

535. Ingredients. — 100 walnuts, 1 handful of salt, 1 quart of
vinegar, £ oz. of'mace, \ oz. of nutmeg, £ oz. of cloves, \oz. of ginger,
i oz. of whole black pepper, a small piece of horseradish, 20 shalots,
j lb. of anchovies, 1 pint of port wine .

Mode. — Procure the walnuts at the time you can run a pin through
them, slightly bruise, and put them into a j ar with the salt and vinegar,
let them stand 8 days, stirring every day ; then drain the liquor from
them, and boil it, with the above ingredients, for about § hour. It may
be strained or not, as preferred, and, if required, a little more vinegar
or wine can be added, according to taste. When bottled well, seal the
corks.

Time. — § hour.

Seasonable. — Make this from the beginning to the middle of July,
i when walnuts are in perfection for pickling purposes.

II.

1536. Ingredients. — h sieve of walnut-shells, 2 quarts of water, salt,
i lb. of shalots, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 oz. of mace, 1 oz. of whole pepper, 1
oz. of garlic.

Mode. — Put the walnut-shells into a pah, with the water, and a
large quantity of salt ; let them stand for 10 days, then break the
> shells up in the water, and let it drain through a sieve, putting a
heavy weight on the top to express the juice ; place it on the fire, and
remove all scum that may arise. Now boil the liquor with the shalots,
cloves, mace, pepper, and garlic, and let all simmer till the shalots

I sink ; then put the liquor into a pan, and, when cold, bottle, and cork
closely. It should stand 6 months before using : should it ferment
during that time, it must be again boiled and
skimmed.

Time. — About f hour.

Seasonable in September, when the walnut- •
shells are obtainable.

The Walnut. — This nut is a native of Persia, and was
introduced into England from France. As a pickle, it
1 is much used in the green state ; and grated walnuts in
Spain are much employed, both in tarts and other
dishes. On the continent it is occasionally employed
1 as a substitute for olive oil in cooking ; but it is apt, under
such circumstances, to become rancid. The matter
which remains ‘after tho oil is extracted is considered
highly nutritious for poultry. It is called mare, and in
Switzerland is eaten under the name of pain anier by ^AIjNUT.

P°or- The oil is frequently manufactured into a

\ ha^wVotrnYwooT611 ^ ““ eStraCt' as “ ^e, is

250

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOK Elt Y.

WHITE SAUCE (Good). "

537- Ingredients.— 5 pint of white stock (No. 107), f pint of cream,
1 dessertspoonful of flour, salt to taste.

Mode. — Have ready a delicately-clean saucepan, into which put the
stock, which should he well flavoured with vegetables, and rather
savoury ; mix the flour smoothly with the cream, add it to the stock,
season with a little salt, and boil all these ingredients very gently for
about 10 minutes, keeping them well stirred the whole time, as this
sauce is very liable to burn.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for a pair of fowls.

Seasonable at any time.

WHITE SAUCE, made without Meat.

538. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of butter, 2 small onions, 1 carrot, 4 a
small teacupful of flour, 1 pint of new milk, salt and cayenne to
taste.

Mode. — Cut up the onions and carrot very small, and put them into
a stewpan with the butter ; simmer them till the butter is nearly dried
up ; then stir in the flour, and add the milk ; boil the whole gently
until it thickens, strain it, season with salt and cayenne, and it will
be ready to serve.

Time. — 4 hour. Average cost, 5 d.

Sufficient for a pair of fowls.

Seasonable at any time.

WHITE SAUCE (a very Simple and Inexpensive Method).

539. Ingredients. — if pint of milk, If oz. of rice, 1 strip of lemon-
peel, 1 small blade of pounded mace, salt and cayenne to taste.

Mode. — Boil the milk with the lemon -peel and rice until the latter
is perfectly tender, then take out the lemon-peel and pound the milk
and rice together ; put it back into the stewpan to warm, add the
mace and seasoning, give it one boil, and serve. This sauce should bo
of the consistency of thick cream.

Time. — About li hour to boil the rice. A verage cost, 4 d.

Sufficient for a pair of fowls.

Seasonable at any time.

THE MUJIINGTON STq.VE, OB KITCHEXEE.

VARIOUS MODES OE COOKING MEAT.

CHAPTER XT.

GENERAL REMARKS.

540. In Our “ Introduction to Cookery” ( see No. 76) we have described
the gradual progress of mankind in the art of cookery, the probability being,
that the human race, for a long period, lived wholly on fruits. Man’s means
of attacking animals, even if he had the desire of slaughtering them, were
very limited, until he acquired the use of arms. He, however, made weapons
. for himself, and, impelled by a carnivorous instinct, made prey of the animals
that surrounded him. It is natural that man should seek to feed on flesh ;
ho has too small a stomach to bo supported alono by fruit, which has not
sufficient nourishment to renovate him. It is possible he might subsist on
vegetables ; but their preparation needs the knowlodgo of art, only to be
obtained after tho lapse of many conturies. Man’s first weapons were tho
branches of trees, which were succeeded by bows and arrows ; and it is
worthy of remark, that these latter weapons havo been found with the natives
of all climates and latitudes. It is singular how this idea presented itself to
individuals so differently placed.

258

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

54 r. Brillat Sayarin says, that raw flesh has but one inconvenience,

from its viscousness it attaches itself to the teeth. He goes on to say, that
it is not, however, disagreeable ; but, when seasoned with salt, that it is easily j
digested. He tells a story of a Croat captain, whom he invited to dinner in
1815, during the occupation of Paris by the allied troops. This officer was
amazed at his host’s preparations, and said, “ When we are campaigning, and •
get hungry, we knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder it 1
with salt, which we always have in the sabretasche, put it under the saddle, i
gallop over it for half a mile, and then dine like princes.” Again, of the 1
huntsmen of Dauphiny it is said, that when they are out shooting in Sep- 1
tember, they take with them both pepper and salt. If they kill a very fat 1
bird, they pluck and season it, and, after carrying it some time in their caps,
eat it. This, they declare, is the best way of serving it up.

54-2. Subsequently to the Croat Mode, which, doubtless, was in fashion
in the earlier ages of the world, fire was discovered. This was an accident :
for fire is not, although we are accustomed to call it so, an element, or spon-
taneous. Many savage nations have been found utterly ignorant of it, and
many races had no other way of dressing their food than by exposing it to
the rays of the sun.

543. The Inhabitants op the Marian Islands, which were discovered
in 1521, had no idea of fire. Never was astonishment greater than theirs
when they first saw it, on the descent of Magellan, the navigator, on one of
their isles. At first they thought it a kind of animal, that fixed itself to and j
fed upon wood. Some of them, who approached too near, being burnt, the I
rest were terrified, and durst only look upon it at a distance. They were I
afraid, they said, of being bit, or lest that dreadful animal should wound with I
his violent respiration and dreadful breath ; for these were the first notions I
they formed of the heat and flame. Such, too, probably, were the notions I
the Greeks originally formed of them.

544. Fire haying been Discovered, mankind^ endeavoured to make use
of it for drying, and afterwards for cooking their meat ; but they wore a
considerable time before they hit upon proper and commodious methods of
employing it in the preparation of their food.

545. Meat, then, placed on Burning Fuel was found better than when
raw : it had more firmness, was oaten with less difficulty, and the ozmazome
being condensed by the carbonisation, gave it a pleasing perfume and flavour. .
Still, however, the meat cooked on the coal would become somowhat befouled,
certain portions of the fuel adhering to it. This disadvantage was remedied
by passing spits through it, and placing it at a suitable height above the burn-
ing fuel. Thus grilling was invented ; and it is well known that, simple as is
this modo of cookery, yet all moat cooked in this way is richly and pleasantly
flavoured. In Homer’s time, the art of cookery had not advanced much

VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT.

250

iPatroclus regaled the three Grecian leaders on bread, wine, and broiled meat,
[t is noticeable, too, jhat Homer does not speak of boiled meat anywhere in
lis poems. Later, however, the Jews, coming out of their captivity in Egypt,
iad made much greater progress. They undoubtedly possessed kettles ; and
n one of these, Esau’s mess of pottage, for which he sold his birthright, must
aave been prepared.

546. Having thus briefly traced a History of Gastronomical
Progresses, we will now proceed to describe the various methods of cooking
meat, and make a few observations on the chemical changes which occur in
Bach of the operations.

547. In this Country, plain boiling, roasting, and baking are the usual
methods of cooking animal food. To explain the philosophy of these simple
culinary operations, we must advert to the effects that are produced by heat
pn the principal constituents of flesh. When finely-chopped mutton or beef is
Steeped for some time in a small quantity of clean water, and then subjected
to slight pressure, the juice of the meat is extracted, and there is left a white
tasteless residue, consisting chiefly of muscular fibres. When this residue is
lieated to between 158° and 177° Fahrenheit, the fibres shrink together, and
(become hard and homy. The influence of an elevated temperature on the
oluble extract of flesh is not less remarkable. When the watery infusion,
which contains all the savoury constituents of the meat, is gradually heated,
t soon becomes turbid ; and, when the temperature reaches 133°, flakes of
fcvhitish matter separate. These flakes are albumen, a substance precisely
similar, in all its properties, to the white of egg (see No. 101). When the
temperature of the watery extract is raised to 158°, the colouring matter of
Ithe blood coagulates, and the liquid, which was originally tinged red by this
fcubstance, is left perfectly clear, and almost colourless. When evaporated,
teven at a gentlo heat, this residual liquid gradually becomes brown, „ and
Requires the flavour of roast meat.

548. Ihese Interesting Facts, discovered in the laboratory, throw a flood

|>f light upon the mysteries of the kitchen. Tho fibres of meat are surrounded
’y a liquid which contains albumen in its soluble state, just as it exists in the
(Unboiled egg. During the operation of boiling or roasting, this substance
(coagulates, and thereby prevents the contraction and hardening of tho fibres.
The tenderness of well-cooked meat is consequently proportioned to tho
amount of albumen deposited in its substance. Meat is underdone when it
Uaa been heated throughout only to tho temperature of coagulating albumen :
it is thoroughly dono when it has beon heated through its whole mass to the
lomperaturo at which the colouring mattor of tho blood coagulates : it is
»>verdonc when tho heat has beon continued long onougli to harden the fibres.

549- ,1ue Juice OF Flesh is Water, holding in solution many substances

8 2

200

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

besides albumen, which aro of the highest possible value as articles of food. In
preparing meat for the table, great care should bo taken to prevent the escape
of this precious juice, as the succulence and sapidity of the meat depend on its
retention. The meat to be cooked should be exposed at first to a quick heat,
which immediately coagulates the albumen on and near the surface. A kind
of shell is thus formed, which effectually retains the whole of the juice within
the meat.

550. During the Operations of Boiling, Roasting, and Baking, fresh
beef and mutton, when moderately fat, lose, according to Johnston, on an
average about — ,

In boiling. In baking. In roasting.

4 lbs. of beef lose 1 lb 1 lb. 3 oz 1 lb. 5 oz.

4 lbs. of mutton lose ... 14 oz 1 lb. 4 oz 1 lb. 6 oz.

BAKING.

551. The Difference between Roasting Meat and Baking it, may
be generally described as consisting in the fact, that, in baking it, the fumes

caused by the operation are not
carried off in the same way as
occurs in roasting. Much, however,
of this disadvantage is obviated by
the improved construction of modern
ovens, and of especially those in
connection with the Leamington
kitchener, of which we give an engraving here, and a full description of
which will be seen at paragraph No. 65, with the prices at which they can be
purchased of Messrs. R. and J. Slack, of the Strand. With meat baked in the
generality of ovens, however, which do not possess ventilators on the principle
of this kitchener, there is undoubtedly a peculiar taste, which does not at all
equal the flavour developed by roasting meat. The chemistry of baking may
be said to be the same as that described in roasting.

552. Should the Oven be very brisk, it will be found necessary to cover
the joint with a piece of white paper, to prevent the meat from being scorched
and blackened outside, before the heat can penetrate into the inside. This
paper should be removed half an hour before the time of serving dinner, so
that the joint may take a good colour.

553. By Means of a Jar, many dishes, which will be enumerated under
their special heads, may be economically prepared in the oven. The principal
of these aro soup, gravies, j ugged hare, beef tea ; and this mode of cooking
may be advantageously adopted with a ham, which has previously been covered
with a common crust of flour and water.

BAKING -DISH.

VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT.

261

554. All Dishes prepared for Baking should be more highly seasoned
than when intended to be roasted. There are some dishes which, it may be
said, are at least equally well cooked in the oven as by the roaster ; thus, a
shoulder of mutton and baked potatoes, a fillet or breast of veal, a sucking
pig, a hare, well basted, will be received by connoisseurs as well, when baked,
as if they had been roasted. Indeed, the baker’s oven, or the family oven,
may often, as has been said, be substituted for the cook and the spit with
greater economy and convenience.

555. A Baking-dish, of which we give an engraving, should not be
less than 6 or 7 inches deep ; so that the meat, which of course cannot be
basted, can stew in its own juices. In the recipe for each dish, full explana-
tions concerning any special points in relation to it will be given.

BOILING-.

556. Boiling, or the preparation of meat by hot water, though one of the
easiest processes in cookery, requires skilful management. Boiled meat should
be tender, savoury, and full of its own juice, or natural gravy ; but, through the
carelessness and ignoranee of cooks, it is too often sent to table hard, tasteless,
and innutritious. To insure a successful result in boiling flesh, the heat of the
fire must be judiciously regulated, the proper quantity of water must be kept
up in the pot, and the scum which rises to the surface must be carefully
removed.

557. Many W riters on Cookery assert that the meat to be boiled should be
put into cold water, and that the pot should be heated gradually ; but Liebig, the
highest .authority on all matters connected with the chemistry of food, has
shown that meat so treated loses some of its most nutritious constituents. “ If
the flesh,” says the great chemist, "be introduced into the boiler when the
water is in a state of brisk ebullition, and if the boiling be kept up for a few
minutes, and the pot then placed in a warm place, so that the temperature of
the water is kept at 158° to 165°, we have the united conditions for giving to
the flesh the qualities which best fit it for being eaten.” When a piece of
meat is plunged into boiling water, the albumen which is near the surface
immediately coagulates, forming an envelope, which prevents the escape of
the internal juice, and most effectually excludes the water, which, by mixing
with this juice, would render the meat insipid. Meat treated thus is juicy and
well-flavoured, when cooked, as it retains most of its savoury constituents.
On the other hand, if the piece of meat be set on the fire with cold water, and
this slowly heated to boiling, the flesh undergoes a loss of soluble and
nutritious substances, while, as a matter of courso, the soup becomos richer in
these matters. The albumen is gradually dissolved from* the surface to the
centre ; tho fibre loses, more or less, its quality of shortness or tenderness,
and becomes hard and tough : the thinner tho pieco of meat is, the greater is
its loss of savoury constituents. In order to obtain well-flavoured and eatable

262

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

meat, we must relinquish the idea of making good soup from it, as that mode
of boiling which yields the best soup gives the driest, toughest, and most
vapid meat. Slow boiling whitens the meat ; and, we suspect, that it is on
this account that it is in such favour with the cooks. The wholesomeness of
food is, however, a matter of much greater moment than the appearance it
presents on the table. It should bo borne in mind, that the whiteness of meat
that has been boiled slowly, is produced by the loss of some important
alimentary properties.

558. The Objections we have raised to the practice of putting meat on
the fire in cold water, apply with equal force to the practice of soaking meat
before cooking it, which is so strongly recommended by some cooks. Fresh meat
ought never to be soaked, as all its most nutritive constituents are soluble in
water. Soaking, however, is an operation that cannot be entirely dispensed
with in the preparation of animal food. Salted and dried meats require to be
soaked for some time in water before they are cooked.

559. For Boiling Meat, the softer the water is, the better. When spring
water is boiled, the chalk which gives to it the quality of hardness, is pre-
cipitated. This chalk stains the meat, and communicates to it an unpleasant
earthy taste. When nothing but hard water can be procured, it should be
softened by boiling it for an hour or two before it is used for culinary purposes.

560. The Fire must be watched with great attention during the opera-
tion of boiling, so that its heat may be properly regulated. As a rule, the
pot should be kept in a simmering state ; a result which cannot be attained
without vigilance.

561. The Temperature at which Water boils, under usual circum-
stances, is 212° Fahr. Water does not become hotter after it has begun to
boil, however long or with whatever violence the boiling is continued. This
fact is of great importance in cookery, and attention to it will save much fuel.
Water made to boil in a gentle way by the application of a moderate heat is
just as hot as when it is made to boil on a strong the with the greatest possible
violenco. When once water has been brought to the boiling point, the fire
may be considerably reduced, as a very gentle heat will suffice to keep the
water at its highest temperature.

562. The Scum which rises to the surface of the pot during the operation
of boiling must be carefully removed, otherwise it will attach itself to the
meat, and thereby spoil its appearance. The cook must not neglect to skim
during the whole process, though by far the greater part of tho scum rises at
first. The practiecof wrapping meat in a cloth may bo dispensed with if the
skimming bo skillfully managed. If tho scum bo removed as fast as it rises,
the meat will bo cooked clean and pure, and come out of the vessel in which
it was boiled, much moro delicate and firm than when cooked in a cloth.

VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT.

263

563. When taken from the Pot, the meat must be wiped with a clean
cloth, or, what will he found more convenient, a sponge previously dipped in
water and wrung dry. The' moat should not be allowed to stand a moment
longer than necessary, as boiled meat, as well as roasted, cannot he eaten
too hot. '

564. The Time allowed for the Operation of Boiling must be regu-
lated according to the size and quality of the meat. As a general rule, twenty
minutes, reckoning from the moment when the boiling commences, may be
allowed for every pound of meat. All the best authorities, however, agree in
this, that the longer the boiling the more perfect the operation.

565. A few Observations on the Nutritive Value of Salted Meat may
be properly introduced in this place. Every housewife knows that dry salt in
contact with fresh meat gradually becomes fluid brine. The application of salt
causes the fibres of the meat to contract, and the juice to flow out from its pores :
as much as one- third of the juice of the meat is often forced out in this manner.
Now, as this juice is pure extract of meat, containing albumen, osmazome, and
other valuable principles, it follows that meat which hits been preserved by the
action of salt can never have the nutritive properties of fresh meat.

56 6. The Vessels used for Boiling should be made of cast-iron, well
tinned within, and provided with closely-fitting lids. They must be kept scru-
pulously clean, otherwise they will render the meat cooked in them unsightly
and unwholesome. Copper pans, if used at all, should he reserved for operations
that are performed with rapidity ; as, by long contact with copper, food may
become dangerously contaminated. The kettle in which a joint is dressed
should be large enough to allow room for a good supply of water; if the meat
be cramped and bo surrounded with but little water, it will be stewed, not
boiled.

567. In Stewing, it is not requisite to have so great a heat as in boiling.
A gentle simmering in a small quantity of water, so that the meat is stewed
* almost in its own juices, is all that is necessary. It is a method much used
on the continent, and is wholesome and economical.

BOILING-rOT.

Stew pan.

Two useful culinary vessels are represented above. O110 is a boiling-pot, in which
large joints may be boiled ; the other is a stewpau, with a closely-fltting lid, to which is
attached a long handle; so that the cover can be removed without scalding the fingers.

204

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Ill,

5<jS. The Hot-plate is a modern improvement on the old kitchen ranges,
x being used for boiling and stewing. It is

a plate of cast iron, having a closed iire
burning beneath it, by which it is tho-
roughly well heated. On this plate are set
the various saucepans, stewpans, &c. ; and,
by this convenient and economical method,

^ ^ r a number of dishes may be prepared at

^J||pli ;?-r“ ono time. The culinary processes of

braising and stewing are, in this manner,
rendered more gradual, and consequently
the substance acted on becomes more tender, and the gravy is not so much
reduced.

BROILING.

569. Generally speaking, small dishes only are prepared by this mode of
cooking ; amongst these, the beef-steak and mutton chop of the solitary

English diner may be mentioned as
celebrated all the world over. Our
beef-steak, indeed, has long crossed
the Channel ; and, with a view of
pleasing the Bi'itons, there is in every
carte at every French restaurant, by
the side of d la Marengo, and d la
Mayonnaise, — bifteh d’Ang/eterre. In
order to succeed in a broil, the cook
must have a bright, clear fire ; so that the surface of the meat may be quickly
heated. The result of this is the same as that obtained in roasting ; namely,
that a crust, so to speak, is formed outside, and thus the juices of the meat
are retained. The appetite of an invalid, so difficult to minister to, is often
pleased with a broiled dish, as the flavour and sapidity of the meat ai-e so well
preserved.

570. The Utensils used for Broiling need but little description. The com-
mon gridiron, for which see engraving at. No. 68, is the same as it has been for
ages past, although some little variety has been introduced into its manufacture,
by the addition of grooves to the bars, by means of which the liquid fat is earned
into a small trough. One point it is well to bear in mind, viz., that the gi'id-
iron should be kept in a direction slanting towards the cook, so that as little
fat as possible may fall into the fire. It has been observed, that broiling is the
most difficult manual offico the general cook has to perform, and one that
requires the most unremitting attention ; for she may turn her back upon the
stewpan or the spit, but the gridiron can never be left with impunity. 1 he
revolving gridiron, shown in the engraving, possesses some advantages of
convenience, which will bo at once apparent.

VARIOUS MODES OP COOKING MEAT.

265

FRYING. w

e,-i. This very favourite Mode of Cooking may be accurately described
as boiling in fat or oil. Substances dressed in this way are generally well
received, for they introduce an agreeable variety, possessing, as they do, a
peculiar flavour. By means of frying, cooks
can soon satisfy many requisitions made on
them, it being a very expeditious mode of pre.
paring dishes for the table, and one which can
be employed when the fire is not sufficiently
large for the purposes of roasting and boiling.

The great point to be borne in mind in frying, is that the liquid must be hot
enough to act instantaneously, as all the merit of this culinary operation lies
in the invasion of the boiling liquid, which carbonizes or burns, at the very
instant of the immersion of the body placed in it. It may be ascertained if
the fat is headed to the proper degree, by cutting a piece of bread and dipping'
it in the frying-pan for five or six seconds ; and if it be firm and of a dark
brown when taken out, put in immediately what you wish to prepare ; if it be
not, let the fat be heated until of the right temperature. This having been
effected, moderate the fire, so that the action may not be too hurried, and that
by a continuous heat the juices of the substance may be preserved, and its
flavour enhanced.

572. The Philosophy of Frying consists in this, that liquids subjected to
the action of fire do not all receive the same quantity of heat. Being differ-
ently constituted in their nature, they possess different “ capacities for
caloidc.” Thus, you may, with impunity, clip your finger in boiling spirits of
wine ; you would take it very quickly from boiling brandy, yet more rapidly
from water whilst the effects of the most rapid immersion in boiling oil need
not be told. As a consequence of this, heated fluids act differently on the sapid
bodies presented to them. Those put in water, dissolve, and are reduced to a
soft mass ; the result being bouillon, stock, &c. (see No. 103). Those substances,
on the contrary/treated with oil, harden, assume a more or less deep colour,
and are finally carbonized. The reason of these different results is, that,
in the ' first instance, water dissolves and extracts the interior juices of the
alimentary substances placed in it ; whilst, in the second, the juices are
preserved ; for they are insoluble in oil.

573- IS T0 BE especially remembered, in connection with frying, that
all dishes fried in fat should bo placed before the fire on a piece of blotting-
paper, or sieve roversed, and there left for a few minutes, so that any superfluous
greasy moisture may be removed.

574. The Utensils used for the Purposes of Frying are confined to
frying-pans, although these are of various sizes ; and, for small and delicate
dishes, such as collops, fritters, pancakes, &c., the saute pan, of which we
give an engraving, is used.

SAUTE PAN.

266

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

COOKING by gas.

57a- Gas-Cooking cad scarcely now bo considered a novelty, — many estab-
lishments, both small and large, have been fitted
with apparatus for cooking by this mode, which
undoubtedly exhibits some advantages. Thus
the heat may be more regularly supplied to the
substance cooking, and the operation is essentially
a clean one, because there can be no cinders or
other dirt to be provided for. Some labour and
attention necessary, too, with a coal fire or close
stove, may be saved ; and, besides this, it may,
perhaps, bo said that culinary operations are
reduced, by this means, to something like a
certainty.

576. There are, however, we think,
many objections to this mode of cooking, more
especially when applied to small domestic es-
tablishments. For instance, the ingenious ma-
chinery necessary for carrying it out, requires
cooks perfectly conversant with its use ; and if
gas-stove. the gas, when the cooking operations are finished,

be not turned off, there will be a large increase
in the cost of cooking, instead of the economy which it has been supposed to
bring. For large establishments, such as some of the immense London ware-
houses, where a large number of young men have to be catered for daily, it
may be well adapted, as it is just possible that a slight increase in the supply
of gas necessary for a couple of joints, may serve equally to cook a dozen
■dishes.

ROASTING.

577. Of the Various Methods of Preparing Meat, Roasting is that
which most effectually preserves its nutritive qualities. Meat is roasted by being
exposed to the direct influence of the fire. This is done by placing the meat
before an open grate, and keeping it in motion to prevent the scorching on any
particular part. When meat is properly roasted, the outer layer of its albumen
is coagulated, and thus presents a barrier to the exit of the juice. In roasting
meat, tho heat must be strongest at first, and it should then be much reduced.
To have a good juicy roast, therefore, the fire must bo red and vigorous at the
very commencement of tho operation. In the most, careful roasting, soino of
the juice is squeezed out of the meat : this evaporates on tho surface of the
meat, and gives it a dark brown colour, a rich lustre, amd a strong aromatic
taste. Resides these effects on tho albumen and tho expelled juice, roasting
converts tho cellular tissue of tho meat into gelatine, and melts the fat out of
the fat-cells.

VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING MEAT.

267

--8. If a Suit is used to support tlie meat before tlie fire, it should be kept
quite bright. Sand and water ought to be used to scour it with, for brickdust
and oil may give a disagreeable taste to the meat. When well scoured, it
must be wiped quite dry with a clean cloth; and, in spitting the meat,
the prime parts should be left untouched, so as to avoid any great escape o
its juices.

579. Kitchens in Large Establishments are usually fitted with what are
termed “ smoke-jacks.” By means of these, several spits, if required, may
be turned at the same time. This not being, of course, necessary in smaller
establishments, a roasting apparatus, more economical in its consumption of
coal, is more frequently in use.

5S0. The Bottle- jack, of which we here give an illustration, with the
wheel and hook, and showing the precise manner of
using it, is now commonly used in many kitchens.

This consists of aspring inclosed in a brass cylinder,
and requires winding up before it is used, and some-
times, also, during the operation of roasting. The
joint is fixed to an iron hook, which is suspended
by a chain connected with a wheel, and which, in
its turn, is connected with the bottle-jack. Beneath
it stands the dripping-pan, which we have also
engraved, together with the basting-ladle, the use
of which latter should not be spared ; as there can
be no good roast without good basting, “ Spare the
rod, and spoil the child,” might easily be paraphrased
into “ Spare the basting, and spoil the meat.” If
the joint is small and light, and so turns unsteadily,
this may be remedied by fixing to the wheel one of
the kitchen weights. Sometimes this jack is fixed
. inside a screen ; but thero is this objection to this
apparatus, — that the meat cooked in it resembles
the flavour of baked meat. This is derived from its
being so completely surrounded with the tin, that
no sufficient current of air gets to it. It will bo
found preferable to make use of a common meat-
screen, such as is shown in the woodcut
This contains shelves for warming plates'
and dishes; and with this, the reflection
not being so powerful, and more air being
admitted to the joint, the roast may be very
excellently cooked.

581, In Stirring the Fire, or putting
fresh coals on it, the dripping-pan should dhhting-pan and basting-ladle.

BOTTLE-JACK, WITH
WHEEL AND HOOK.

203

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY

always be drawn back, so that there may be no danger of the coal, cinders,
or ashes falling down into it.

582. Under each particular Recipe there is stated the time required

MEAT-SCREEN.

for roasting each joint ; but, as a
general rule, it may be here given,
that for every pound of meat, in
ordinary-sized joints, a quarter of
an hour may be allotted.

583. White Meats, and the
Meat op Young Animals, require
to be very well roasted, both to be
pleasant to the palate and easy of
digestion. Thus veal, pork, and
lamb, should be thoroughly done to
the centre.

584. Mutton and Beep, on the other band, do not, generally speaking,
require to be so thoroughly done, and they should be dressed to the point,
that, in carving them, the gravy should just run, but not too freely. Of course
in this, as in most other dishes, the tastes of individuals vary ; and there are
many who cannot partake, with satisfaction, of any joint unless it is what
others would call overdressed.

£60

QUADRUPEDS.

CHAPTER XII.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPED S.

585. By the General Assent of Mankind, the Empire of Nature has
been divided into three kingdoms ; the first consisting of minerals, the second
of vegetables, and the third of animals. The Mineral Kingdom comprises all
substances which are without those organs necessary to locomotion, and
the due performance of the functions of life. They are composed of the
accidental aggregation of particles, which, under certain circumstances, take
a constant and regular figure, but which are more frequently found without
any definite conformation. They also occupy the interior parts of the earth,
as well as compose those huge masses by which we see the land in some
parts guarded against tho encroachments of the sea. The Vegetable Kingdom
covers and beautifies the earth with an endless variety of foftn and colour.
It consists of organized bodies, but destitute of the power of locomotion.
They are nourished by means of roots ; they breathe by means of leaves ;
and propagate by means of seed, dispersed within certain limits. The
Animal Kingdom consists of sentient beings, that enliven the external parts
of the earth. They possess the powers of voluntary motion, respire air, and
are forced into action by the cravings of hunger or tho parching of thirst,
by the instincts of animal passion, or by pain. Like the vegetable kingdom.

270

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

they are limited within the boundaries of certain countries by the conditions
of climate and soil ; and some of the species prey upon each other. Linnaeus
has divided them into six classes ; — Mammalia, Birds, Fishes, Amphibious
Animals, Insects, and Worms. The three latter do not come within the limits
of our domain ; of fishes we have already treated, of birds we shall treat,
and of mammalia we will now treat.

586. This Class of Animals embraces all those that nourish their young
by means of lacteal glands, or teats, and are so constituted as to have a warm
or red blood. In it the whale is placed, — an order which, from external
habits, has usually been classed with the fishes ; but, although this animal
exclusively inhabits the water, and is supplied with fins, it nevertheless
exhibits a striking alliance to quadrupeds. It has warm blood, and produces
its young alive ; it nourishes them with milk, and, for that purpose, Is
furnished with teats. It is also supplied with lungs, and two auricles and
two ventricles to the heart ; all of Whioh bring it still closer into an alliance
with the quadrupedal species of the animal kingdom.

587. The General Characteristics of the Mammalia have been fre-
quently noticed. Tho bodies of nearly the whole species are covered with
hair, a kind of clothing which is both soft and warm, little liable to injury, and
bestowed in proportion to the necessities of the animal and the nature of the
climate it inhabits. In all the higher orders of animals, tho head is the
principal seat of the organs of sense. It is there that the eyes, the ears, the
nose, and the mouth are placed. Through the last they receive their
nourishment. In it are the teeth, which, in most of the mammalia, are
used not only for the mastication of food, but as weapons of offence. They
are inserted into two movable bones called jaws, and the front teeth are so
placed that their sharp edges may easily be brought in contact with their
food, in order that its fibres may readily be separated. Next to these, on
each side, are situated the canine teeth, or tusks, which are longer than the
other teeth, and, being pointed, are used to tear the food. In tho back
jaws are placed another form of teeth, called grinders. These are for
masticating the food ; and in those animals that live on vegetables, they are
flattened at the top; but, in carnivora, their upper surfaces are furnished
with sharp-pointed protuberances. From tho numbers, form, and disposition
of the teeth, tho various genera of quadrupeds have been arranged. The
nose is a cartilaginous body, pierced with two holes, which are called nostrils.
Through these the animal is affectod by tho senso of smell ; and in some it
is prominent, whilst in others it is flat, compressed, turned upwards, or bent
downwards. In boasts of prey, it is frequently longor than the lips ; and in
some other animals it is elongated into a movable trunk or proboscis, whilst,
in the rhinoceros tribe, it is armed with a horn. The eyes of quadrupeds are
generally defended by movablo lids, on tho outer margins of which are fringes
of hair, called eyelashes. Tho opening of tho pupil is in goneral circular ; but
in some spocios, as in those of tho Cat and llare, it is contracted into a

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS.

271

perpendicular line, whilst in the Horse, the Os, and a few others, it forms a
transverse bar. The ears are openings, generally accompanied with a cartilage
which defends and covers them, called the external ears. In water-animals
the latter are wanting ; sound, in them, being transmitted merely through
orifices in the head, which have the name of auditory-holes. The most
defenceless animals are , extremely delicate in the sense of hearing, as are
likewise most beasts of prey. Most of the mammiferous animals walk on
four feet, which, at the extremities, are usually divided into toes or fingers.

In some, however, the feet end in a single corneous substance called a hoof.
The toes of a few end in broad, flat nails, and. of most others, in pointed
claws. Some, again, have the toes connected by a membrane, which is
adapted to those that are destined to pass a considerable portion of then-
lives in water. Others, again, as in the Bat, have the digitations of the
anterior feet greatly elongated, the intervening space being filled by a
membrane, which extends round the hinder legs and tail, and by means
of which they are enabled to rise into the air. In Man, the hand alone
comprises fingers, separate, free, and flexible ; but Apes, and some other
kinds of animals, have fingers both to the hands and feet. These, therefore,
aye the only animals that can hold movable objects in a single hand.
Others, such as Rats and Squirrels, have the fingers sufficiently small and
flexible to enable them to pick up objects ; but they are compelled to hold
them in both hands. Others, again, have the toes shorter, and must rest on
the fore-feet, as is the case- with dogs and cats when they wish to hold a
substance firmly on the ground with their paws. There are still others that
have their toes united and di-awn under the skin, or enveloped in corneous
hoofs, and are thereby enabled to exercise no prehensile power whatever.

588. According to the Design and End op Nature, mammiferous animals
are calculated, when arrived at maturity, to subsist on various kinds of food, —
spme to live wholly upon flesh, others upon grain, herbs, or fruits; but in their
infant state, milk is the appropriate food of the whole. That this food may never
fail them, it is universally ordained, that the young should no sooner come into
the world, than the milk should flow in abundance into the members with .
which the mother is supplied for the secretion of that nutritious fluid. By a
wonderful instinct of Nature, too, the young animal, almost as soon as it has
come into life, searches for the teat, and knows perfectly, at the first, how,
by the process of suction, it will be able to extract the fluid necessary to its
existence.

589. In the General Economy op Nature, this class of animals seems
destined to preserve a constant equilibrium in the number of animated beings
that hold their oxistonce on the surface of the earth. To man they are imme-
diately useful in various ways. Some of their bodies afford him food, their skin
shoes, and their fleece clothes. Somo of them unite with him in participating
the dangers of combat with an enemy, and others assist him in the chase, in
exterminating wilder sorts, or banishing them from the haunts of civilization

272

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Many, indeed, are injurious to him ; but most of them, in some shape or other,
lie turns to his service. Of these there is none he has made more subservient
to his purposes than the common ox, of which there is scarcely a part that he
has not been able to convert into some useful purpose. Of the horns he makes
drinking- vessels, knife-handles, combs, and boxes ; and when they are softened
by means of boiling watei-, he fashions them into transparent plates for lan-
terns. Tlfis invention is ascribed to King Alfrec^ who is said to have been
the first to use them to preserve his candle time-measures from the wind. Glue
is made of the cartilages, gristles, and the finer pieces of the parings and
cuttings of the hides. Their bone is a cheap substitute for ivory. The thin-
nest of the calf-skins are manufactured into vellum. Their blood is made the
basis of Prussian blue, and saddlers use a fine sort of thread prepared from
their sinews. The hair is used in various valuable manufactures ; the suet, fat,
and tallow, are moulded into candles ; and the milk and cream of the cow
yield butter and cheese. Thus is every part of this animal valuable to man,
who has spared no pains to bring it to the highest state of perfection.

590. Among the various Breeds of the Ox, upon which man has
bestowed his highest powers -of culture, there is now none takes a higher
place than that known by the name of Short-Horns. From the earliest
ages. Great Britain has been distinguished for the excellence of her native breeds
of cattle, and there are none in England that have obtained greater celebrity
than those which have this name, and which originated, about seventy
years ago, on the banks of the Tees. Thence they have spread into the
valleys of the Tweed ; thence to the Lothians, in Scotland ; and south-
ward, into the fine pastures of England. They are now esteemed the

SI! OBT-HOBN COW. SHOBT-nOKN BULL.

most profitable breed of cattle, as there is no animal which attains sooner
to maturity, and none that supplies moat of a superior quality. The value
of some of the improved breeds is something enormous. At the sale of
Mr. Charles Colling, a breeder in Yorkshire, in 1810, his bull “Comet”
sold for 1,000 guineas. At the sale of Earl Spencer's herd in 1816, 104 cows,
heifers, and calvos, with nineteen bulls, fetched £8,468. 5.*. ; being an average
of £68. 17s. apioco. The value of such animals is scarcely to be estimated by

TUE OX.

those who are unacquainted with the care with which they are tended, and
with the anxious attention which is paid to the purity of their breed. A
modern writer, well acquainted with this subject, says, “There are now, at
least, five hundred herds, large and small, in this kingdom, and from six to seven
thousand head registered every alternate year in the herd-book.” The necessity
for thus recording the breeds is greater than might, at first sight, be imagined,
as it tends directly to preserve the character of the cattle, while it Sometimes
adds to the value and reputation of the animal thus entered. Besides, many
of the Americans, and large purchasers for the foreign market, will not look at
an animal without the breeder has taken care to qualify hingfor such reference.

Of short-horned stock, there is annually sold from £40,000 to £50,000 worth
by public auction, independent of the vast numbers disposed of by private
contract. The breed is highly prized in Belgium, Prussia, France, Italy, and
Russia ; it is imported into most of the British colonies, and is greatly
esteemed both for its meat and its dairy produce, wherever it is known. The
quickness with which it takes on flesh, and the weight which it frequentlj'
makes, are well known ; but we may mention that it is not uncommon to see
steers of from four to five years old realize a weight of from 800 to 1,000 lbs.

Such animals command from the butcher from £30 to £40 per head, according
to the quality ; whilst others, of two or three years old, and, of course, of less
weight, bring as much as £20 apiece.

591. Long- Horns. — This is the prevailing breed in our midland counties
and in. Ireland ; but they are greatly inferior to the short-homs, and are fast „

LOXG-HOBN BULL. LOXG-nOIiJT COW.

being supplanted by them. Even where they have been cultivated with
the nicest care and brought to the greatest perfection, they are inferior to the
others, and must ultimately be driven from the farm.

592. The Alderney. — Among the dairy breeds of England, tho Aldorney
tahes a prominent placo, not on account of tho quantity of milk which it
yields, but on (account of the excellent quality of tho cream and butter which
arejproduced from it. Its docility is marvellous, and in appearance it greatly
resembles the Ayrshire breed of Scotland, the excellence of which is supposed

274

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

to be, in some degrco, derived from a mixture of the Alderney blood with that
breed. The distinction between them, however, lies both in the quantity and

ALDEEXBY COW.

ALDEBXEY BULL.

quality of the milk which they severally produce ; that of the Alderney being
rich in quality, and that of the Ayrshire abundant in quantity. The merit of
the former, howover, ends with its milk, for as a grazer it is worthless.

593. Scottish Breeds. — Of these the Kyloe, which belongs to the Highlands
of Scotland ; the Galloway, which has been called the Kyloe without horns ;
and the Ayrshire, are the breeds most celebx-ated. The first has kept his place,
and on account of the compactness of his form, and the excellent quality of his
flesh, he is a great favourite with butchers who have a select family trade. It

GALLOWAY BULL. GALLOWAY COW.

is alike unsuitable lor the daii'y and the arable farm ; but in its native High-
lands it attains to great perfection, thriving upon the scanty and coarse
herbage which it gathers on tho sides of tho mountains. The Galloway has a
larger frame, and when fattened makes excellent beef. But it has given
place to the short-horns in its native district, where turnip-husbandry is
pursued with advantage. Tho Ayrshire is peculiarly adapted for tho dairy,
and for tho abundanco of its milk cannot bo surpassed in its native district.
In this it stands unrivalled, and there is no other breed capable of converting

BEEF.

275

tho produce of a poor soil into such fine butter and cheese. It is difficult to
fatten, however, and its beef is of a coarse quality. We have chosen these as
amonsr the principal representative breeds of the ox species; but there aie
other breeds which, at all events, have a local if not a general celebrity.

594. The general Mode of Slaughtering Oxen in this country is by

595. The Manner in which a
Side of Beef is cut up in London,
is shown in the engraving on this
page. In the metropolis, on ac-
count of the large number of its
population possessing the means side of beef, showing the sevehae joints.
to indulge in the “best of every-
thing, the demand for the most delicate joints of meat is great, the price, at
the same time, being much higher for these than for tho other parts. Tho
consequence is, that in London the carcass is there divided so as to obtain the
greatest quantity of moat on tho most esteemed joints. In many places,

striking them a smart blow with a
hammer or poleaxe on the head,
a little above the eyes. By this
means, when the blow is skilfully
given, the beast is brought down
at one blow, and, to prevent
recovery, a cane is generally
inserted, by which the spinal
cord is perforated, which in-
stantly deprives the ox of all
sensation of pain. In Spain,
and some other countries on the
continent, it is also usual to
deprive oxen of life by the opera-
tion of pithing or dividing the
spinal cord in the neck, close to
the back part of the head. This
is, in effect, the same mode as is
practised in the celebrated Spanish
bull-fights by the matador, and it
is instantaneous in depriving the
animal of sensation, if the operator
be skilful. We hope and believe
that those men whose disagreeable
duty it is to slaughter the “beasts
of the field ” to provide meat for
mankind, inflict as little punish-
ment and cause as little suffering
as possible.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKER Y.

27 1>

however, where, from a greater equality in the social condition and habits of
the inhabitants, the demand and prices for the different parts of the carcasses
are more equalized, there is not the same reason for the butcher to cut the best
joints so large.

596. The Meat on those Parts of the Animal in which tho muscles are
least called into action, is most tender and succulent ; as, for instance, along
the back, from the rump to the hinder part of the shoulder ; whilst the limbs,
shoulder, and neck, are the toughest, driest, and least-esteemed.

597. The Names of the several Joints in the hind and fore quarters of
a side of beef, and the purposes for which they are used, are as follows : —

HIND QUARTER.

1. Sirloin. — The two sirloins, cut together in one joint, form a baron ; this,
when roasted, is the famous national dish of Englishmen, at entertainments,
on occasion of rejoicing.

2. Rump, — the finest part for steaks.

3. Aitch-bone, — boiling piece.

4. Buttock,— prime boiling piece.

5. Mouse-round, — boiling or stewing.

6. Hock, — stewing.

7. Thick flank, cut with the udder-fat. — primest boiling piece.

8. Thin flank, — boiling.

FORE QUARTER.

9. Five ribs, called the fore-rib. — This is considered the primest roasting
piece.

10. Four ribs, called the middle-rib, — greatly esteemed by housekeepers

as the most economical joint for roasting. ,

11. Two ribs, called, the chuck-rib,— used for second quality of steaks.

12. Leg-of-mutton piece, — the muscles of tho shoulder dissected from the
breast.

13. Brisket, or breast,— used for boiling, after being salted.

14. Neck, clod, and sticking-piece, — used for soups, gravies, stocks, pics,
and mincing for sausages.

1.5. Shin, — stewing.

The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according to the
several joints of beef, when cut up in the London manner.

First class — includes the sirloin, with tho kidney suet (1), the rump-steak
piece (2), tho fore-rib (9).

Second class.— The buttock (4), the thick flank (7), the middle-rib (10).

Third class.— The aitch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin flank (8), the
chuck (11), the log-of-muttou pioco (12), tho brisket (13).

Fourth class.— The neck, clod, and sticking-piece (14).

Fifth class. — The hock (C), tho shin (15).

MODEItX MODE OX’ SEJJVIXG DISHES.

RECIPES.

CHAPTER XIII.

BAKED BEEF (Cold’Meat Cookery).

598. Ingredients. — About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 2 small onions,
1 large carrot or two small ones, 1 turnip, a small bunch of savoury
herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 3 tablespoon-
fuls of ale, crust or mashed potatoes.

Mode.— Cut the beef in slices, allowing a small amount of fat to
each slice ; place a layer of this in the bottom of a pie-dish, with a
portion of the onions, carrots, and tixrnips, which must be sliced ;
mince the herbs, strew them over the meat, and season with pepper
and salt. Then put another layer of meat, vegetables, and seasoning ;
and proceed in this manner until all the ingredients are used. Pour
in the gravy and ale (water may be substituted for the former, but it
is not so nice), cover with a crust or mashed potatoes, and bake for
\ hour, or rather longer.

Time. — Rather more than \ hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — ft is as well to parboil the carrots and turnips before adding them to
the meat, and to use some of the liquor in which they were boiled as a substi-
tute for gravy ; that is to say, when there is no gravy at hand. Be particular
to cut the onions in very thin slices.

XI.

599. Ingredients. — Slices of cold roast beef, salt and pepper to
taste, 1 sliced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 5 or 6
tablespoonfuls of gravy or sauce of any kind, mashed potatoes.

Mode.— Butter the sides of a deep dish, and spread mashed pota-
toes over the bottom of it ; ou this place layers of beef in thin slices
(this may be minced if there is not sufficient beef to cut into slices),

278

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a very little onion and herbs,
which should he previously fried of a nice brown ; then put another
layer of mashed potatoes, and beef, and other ingredients, as before ;
pour in the gravy or sauce, cover the whole with another layer of
potatoes, and bake for ^ hour. This may be served in the dish, or
turned out.

Time. — h hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold beef, d.

Sufficient. — A large pie-dish full for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Beef. — The quality of beef depends on various circumstances ; such as the age, the
sex, the breed of the animal, and also on the food upon which it has been raised. Bull
beef is, in general, dry and tough, and by no means possessed of an agreeable flavour ;
whilst the flesh of the ox is not only highly nourishing and digest ible, but, if not too old,
extremely agreeable. The flesh of the cow is, also, nourishing, but it is not so agreeable
as that of the ox, although that of a heifer is held in high estimation. The flesh of the
smaller breeds is much sweeter than that of the larger, which is best when the animal is
about seven years old. That of the smaller breeds is best at about five years, and that
of the cow can hardly be eaten. too young.

BAKED BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.

600. Ingredients. — 6 oz. of flour, 2 eggs, not quite 1 pint of milk,
salt to taste, 1^ lb. of rump-steaks, 1 kidney, pepper and salt.

Mode. — Cut the steaks into nice square pieces, with a small quantity
of fat, and the kidney divide into small pieces. Make a batter of
flour, eggs, and milk in the above proportion ; lay a little of it at the
bottom of a pie-dish ; then put in the steaks and kidney, which should
be well seasoned with pepper and salt, and pour over the remainder
of the batter, and bake for If hour in a brisk but not fierce oven.

Time. — li hour. Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

BEEF A LA MODE.

{Economical.)

601. Ingredients. — About 3 lbs. of clod or sticking of beef, 2 oz. of

clarified dripping, 1 large onion, flour, 2 quarts of water, 12 berries of
allspice, 2 bay-leaves, £ teaspoonful of whole black pepper, salt to
taste. •

Mode. — Cut the beef into small pieces, and roll them in flour ; put
the dripping into a stewpan with the onion, which should be sliced
thin. Let it get quite hot ; lay in the pieces of beef, and stir them
well about. When nicely browned all over, add by degrees boiling
water in the above proportion, and, as the water is added, keep the
whole well stirred. Put in the spice, bay-leaves, and seasoning, cover
the stewpan closely, and set it by the side ot the lire to stew very

279

BEE?.

gently, till the meat becomes quite tender, which will be in about 3
hours, when it will be ready to serve. Remove the bay-leaves before
it is sent to table.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, Is. 3d.

Sufficient for 6 persons .

Seasonable at any time.

BESS’ A LA MODE.

602. Ingredients. — 6 or 7 lbs. of the thick flank of beef, a few slices
■of fat bacon, 1 teacupful of vinegar, black pepper, allspice, 2 cloves
well mixed and finely pounded, making altogether 1 heaped teaspoon-
ful ; salt to taste, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, all
finely minced and well mixed; 3 onions, 2 large carrots, 1 turnip,
1 head of celery, 1-i pint of water, 1 glass of port wine.

Mode. — Slice and fry the onions of a pale- brown, and cut up the
other vegetables in small pieces, and prepare the beef for stewing in
the following manner : — Choose a fine piece of beef, cut the bacon into
long slices, about an inch in thickness, dip them into vinegar, and
then into a little of the above seasoning of spice, &c., mixed with the
same quantity of minced herbs. With a sharp knife make holes deep
enough to let in the bacon ; then rub the beef over with the remainder
^ of the seasoning and herbs, and bind it up in a nice shape with tape.
Have ready a well-tinned stewpan (it should not be much larger than
the piece of meat you are cooking), into which put the beef, with the
vegetables, vinegar, and water. Let it simmer very gently for 5 hours,
or rather longer, should the meat not be extremely tender, and turn
it once or twice. When ready to serve, take out the beef, remove the
tape, and put it on a hot dish. Skim off every particle of fat from
the gravy, add the port wine, just let it boil, pour it over the beef,
and it is ready to serve. Great care must be taken that this does
not boil fast, or the meat will be tough and tasteless ; it should only
just bubble. When convenient, all kinds of stews, &c., should be
cooked on a hot-plate, as the process is so much more gradual than on
an open lire.

Time.— 5 hours, or rather more. Average cost, Id. per lb.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but more suitable for a winter dish.

Goon Meat.— The Iyer of moat when freshly killed, and the animal, when slaughtered,
being in a stute of perfect health, adheres firmly to the bones. Beef of the best quality
is of a deep-red colour ; and when the animal has approached maturity, and been well
led, the lean is intermixed with fat, giving it the mottled appearance which is so much
esteemed. It is also full of juice, which resembles in colour claret wine. The fat of
the best beef is of a firm and waxy consistency, of a colour resembling that of the
nnest grass butter; bright in appearance, neither greasy nor friable to the touch,
out moderately unctuous, in a medium degree between the last-mentioned properties.

230

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

BEEF-STEAKS AND OYSTER SAUCE.

603. Ingredients.— 3 dozen oysters, ingredients for oyster sauce
( see No. 492), 2 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of pepper and
salt.

Mode. — Make the oyster sauce by recipe No. 492, and when that is
ready, put it by the side of the lire, but do not let it keep boiling.
HaVe the steaks cut of an equal thickness, broil them over a very
clear lire, turning them often, that the gravy may not escape. In
about 8 minutes they will be done, when put them on a very hot
dish ; smother with the oyster sauce, and the remainder send to table
in a tureen. Serve quickly.

Time. — About 8 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the
steak.

Average cost, Is. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from September to April.

BEEF-STEAK PIE.

604. Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of salt,
cayenne, and black pepper, crust, water, the yolk of an egg.

Mode. — Have the steaks cut from a rump that has hung a few days,
that they may be tender, and be particular that every portion is per-
fectly sweet. Cut the steaks into pieces about 3 inches long and
2 wide, allowing a small piece of fat to each piece of lean, and arrange
the meat in layers in a pie-dish. Between each layer sprinkle a
seasoning of salt, pepper, and, when liked, a few grains of cayenne.
Fill the dish sufficiently with meat to support the crust, and to give
it a nice raised appearance when baked, and
not to look flat and hollow. Pour in sufficient
water to half fill the dish, and border it with
paste (see Pastry) ; brush it over with a little
water, and put on the cover ; slightly press
down the edges with the thumb, and trim off close to the dish. Orna-
ment the pie with leaves, or pieces of paste cut in any shape that
fancy may direct, brush it over with the beaten yolk of an egg ; make
a hole in the top of the crust, and bake in a hot oven for about
I f hour.

Time. — In a hot oven, If hour. Average cost, for this size, 3s. 6 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Beef-steak pies may be flavoured in various ways, with oysters and

BEEF-STEAK PIE.

BEEF.

281

their liquor, mushrooms, minced onions, &c. For family pies, suet may bo
used instoad of butter or lard for the crust, and clarified beef-dripping answers
very well where economy is an object. Pieces of underdone roast or boiled
meat may in pios be used very advantageously ; but always remove the bone
from pie-meat, unless it he chicken or game. We have directed that the meat
shall be cut smaller than is usually the case; for on trial we have found it much
more tender, more easily helped, and with more gravy, than when jmt into
the dish in one or two large steaks.

BEEF-STEAK AID KIDNEY PUDDING.

605. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of rump-steak, 2 kidneys, seasoning to
taste of salt and black pepper, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry),
in the proportion of 6 oz. of suet to each 1 lb. of flour.

Mode. — Procure some tender rump steak (that which has been hung
a little time), and divide it into pieces about an inch square, and
cut each kidney into 8 pieces. Line the dish (of which we have
given an engraving) with crust made with suet and flour in the above
proportion, leaving a small piece of crust to overlap the edge. Then
cover the bottom with a portion of the steak and a few pieces of kidney ;
season with salt and pepper (some add a little flora to thicken the
gravy, but it is not necessary), and then add another layer of steak,
kidney, and seasoning. Proceed in this manner till the dish is full,
when pour in sufficient water to come
within 2 inches of the top of the basin.

Moisten the edges of the crust, cover
the pudding over, press the two crusts
together, that the gravy may not escape,
and turn up the overhanging paste.

Wring out a cloth in hot water, flour it,
and tie up the pudding ; put it into boiling water, and let it boil
for at least 4 hours. If the water diminishes, always replenish with
some, hot in a jug, as the pudding should be kept covered all the
time, and not allowed to stop boiling. When the cloth is removed,
cut out a round piece in the top of the crust, to prevent the pudding
bursting, and send it to table in the basin, either in an ornamental
dish, or with a napkin pinned round it. Serve quickly.

Time. For a pudding with 2 lbs. of steak and 2 kidneys allow
4 hours.

Average cost, 2s. 8 d.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but more suitable in winter.

Note. Beef-steak pudding may be very much enriched by adding a few

2S2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

oysters or mushrooms. The above recipe was contributed to this work by a
Sussex lady, in which county tho inhabitants are noted for their savoury
puddings. It differs from the genoral way of making them, as the moat is cut
up into very small pieces and the basin is differently shaped : on trial, this
pudding will bo found far nicer, and more full of gravy, than when laid in
large pieces in the dish.

Bad Meat. — In the flesh of animals slaughtered whilst suffering acute inflammation
or fever, the hollow fibres, or capillaries, as they are culled, which lorrn the substance of
the Iyer, arc filled with congested and unassimilated animal fluid, which, from its imuurity,
gives the Iyer a dark colour, and produces a tendency to rapid putrefaction. In a more
advanced stage of such disease, serous, and sometunes purulent matter, is formed in
the cellular tissues between the muscles of the flesh ; and when such is the case, nothing
can be more poisonous than such abominable carrion. In the flesh of animals killed
whilst under the influence of any disease of an emaciating effect, the Iyer adheres but
slightly to the bones, with its fibres contracted and dry; and the little fat (Rat there
may be is friable, and shrunk within its integuments, The flesh of animals slaughtered
whilst under considerable depression of vital energy (as from previous bleeding) has a
a diminished tendency to, stiffen after death, the feebleness of this tendency being in
proportion to the degree of depression. It presents, also, an unnatural blue or pallid
appearance, has a faint and slightly sour smell, and soon becomes putrid. When an
animal has died otherwise than by slaughtering, its flesh is flaccid and clammy, emits a
peculiar faint and disagreeable smell, and, it need scarcely be added, spontaneous
decomposition proceeds very rapidly.

BEEF-STEAKS WITH FRIED POTATOES, or BIFTEK ATJX
POMMES-DE-TERRE (a la mode Franoaise).

606. Ingredients.— 2 lbs. of steak, 8 potatoes, ? lb. of butter, salt
and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced herbs.

Mode. — Put the butter into a frying or saute pan, set it over the
fire, and let it get very hot ; peel, and cut the potatoes into long thin
slices ; put them into the hot butter, and fry them till of a nice brown
colour. Now broil the steaks over a bright clear fire, turning them
frequently, that every part may be equally done : as they should not
be thick, 5 minutes will broil them. Put the herbs and seasoning in
the butter the potatoes were fried in, pour it under the steak, and
place the fried potatoes round, as a garnish. To have this dish in
perfection, a portion of the -fillet of the sirloin should be used, as the
meat is generally so much more tender than that of the rump, and
the steaks should be cut about i of an inch in thickness.

Time. — 5 minutes to broil the steaks, and about the same time to
fry the potatoes. Average cost, Is. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable all the year ; but not so good in warm weather, as the
meat cannot hang to get tender.

BOILED AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.

607. Ingredients. — Beef, water.

Mode. — After this joint has been in salt 5 or 6 days, it will be

BEEF.

283

ready for use, and will not take so long boiling as a round, foi it is
not so solid. Wash the meat, and, if too salt, soak it for a few
hours, changing the water once or twice, till the required freshness
is obtained. Put into a saucepan, or boiling-pot, sufficient water
to cover the meat ; set it over the fire,
and when it boils, plunge in the joint
see No. 557), and let it boil up quickly.

Now draw the pot to the side of the
fire, and let the process be very gradual,
as the water must only simmer, or the
meat will be hard and tough. Carefully
remove the scum from the surface of
the water, and continue doing this for
a few minutes after it first boils. Carrots and turnips are served
with this dish, and sometimes suet dumplings, which may be boiled
with the beef. Garnish with a few of the carrots and turnips, and
serve the remainder in a vegetable-dish.

Time. — An aitch-bone of 10 lbs., hours after the water boils;
one of 20 lbs., 4 hours. Average cost, Qd. per lb.

Sufficient. — 10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but best from September to March.

AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.

Note. — The liquor in which the meat has been boiled may be easily converted
into a very excellent pea-soup. It will require very few vegetables, as it will
be impregnated with the flavour of those boiled with the meat.

The Action of Salt on Meat. — The manner in which salt acts in preserving meat is
not difficult to understand. By its strong affinity, it, in the first place, extracts the
juices from the substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated solution
with the water contained in the juice, and the meat then absorbs the saturated brine in
place of the juice extracted by the salt. In this way, matter incapable of putrefaction
takes the places of that portion in the meat which is most perishable. Such, however,
is not the only office of salt as a means of preserving meat ; it act s also by its astringency
in contracting the fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on the interior
of the substance of the meat. The last-mentioned operation of salt as an antiseptic is
evinced by the diminution of the volume of meat to which it is applied. The astringent
action of saltpetre on meat is much greater than that of salt, and thereby renders meat
to which it is applied very hard ; but, in small quantities, it considerably assists the
antiseptic action of salt, and also prevents the destruction of the florid colour of meat,
which is caused by the application of salt. Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing
statement, that the application of salt and saltpetre diminisnes, in a considerable degree,
the nutritive, and, to some extent, the wholesome qualities of meat ; and, therefore, in
their use, the quantity applied should be as small as possible, consistent with the perfect
preservation of the meat.

BOILED BOUND OE BEEF.

6o8. Ingredients.— Beef, water.

Mode. — As a whole round of beef, generally speaking, is too large for
small families, and very seldom required, we here give the reoipe for
dressing a portion of the silver side of the round. Take from 12 to 16 lbs.,

£84

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

after it has been in salt about 10 days ; just wash off the salt, skewer it
up in a nice round-looking form, and bind it with tape to keep the
skewers in their places. Put it in a saucepan of boiling water, as in
the preceding recipe, set it upon a good fire, and when it begins to boil,
carefully remove all scum from the surface, as, if this is not attended
to, it sinks on to the meat, and when brought to table, presents a
very unsightly appearance. When it is well skimmed, draw the pot
to the corner of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until done.
Remove the tape and skewers, which should be replaced by a silver
one ; pour over a little of the pot-liquor, and garnish with carrots.
(See coloured plate 2.) Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and sometimes suet
dumplings, accompany this dish ; and these may all be boiled with
the beef. The pot-liquor should be saved, and converted into pea-
soup ; and the outside slices, which are generally hard, and of an
uninviting appearance, may be cut off before being sent to table, and
potted. These make an excellent relish for the breakfast or luncheon
table.

Time. — Part of a round of beef weighing 12 lbs., about 3 hours
after the water boils. Average cost, 8 cl. per lb.

Sufficient for 10 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but more suitable for winter.

609. Soyer’s Recipe for Preserving the Gravy in Salt Meat, when rr
IS TO BE served Cold. — Fill two tubs with cold water, into which throw a few
pounds of rough ice ; and when the meat is done, put it into one of the tubs
of ice- water; let it remain 1 minute, when take out, and put it into the other
tub. Fill the first tub again with water,’ and continue this process for about
20 minutes ; then set it upon a dish, and let it remain until quite cold. When
cut, the fat will be as white as possible, besides having saved the whole of the
gravy. If there is no ice, spring water will answer the same purpose, but
will require to be more frequently changed.

Note. — The Brisket and Rump may be boiled by the above recipe ; of course
allowing' more or less time, according to the size of the joint.

BEEF CAKE.

610. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast beef ; to each pound
of cold meat allow £ lb. of bacon or ham ; seasoning to taste of pepper
and salt, 1 small bunch of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs.

Mode. — Mince the beef very finely (if underdone it will be better),
add to it the bacon, which must also be chopped very small, and mix
well together. Season, stir in the herbs, and bind with an egg, or 2
should 1 not be sufficient. Make it into small square cakes, about

BEEF.

285

-i- inch thick, fry them in hot dripping, and serve in a dish with good
gravy poured round them.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.
Seasonable at any time.

BKOILED BEEF-STEAKS or KIJMP-STEAKS.

611. Ingkedients. — Steaks, a piece of butter the size of a walnut,
salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of good mushroom ketchup or Harvey’s
sauce.

Mode. — As the success of a good broil so much depends on the
state of the fire, see that it is bright and clear, and perfectly free from
smoke, and do not add any fresh fuel just before you require to use the
gridiron. Sprinkle a little salt over the fire, put on the gridiron for a few
minutes, to get thoroughly hot through ; rub it with a piece of fresh
suet', to prevent the meat from sticking, and lay on the steaks, which
should be cut of an equal thickness, about f of an inch, or rather
thinner, and level them by beating them as little as possible with a
rolling-pin. Turn them frequently with steak-tongs (if these are not
at hand, stick a fork in the edge of the fat, that no gravy escapes),
and in from 8 to 10 minutes they will be done. Have ready a very
hot dish, into which put the ketchup, and, when liked, a little minced
shalot ; dish up the steaks, rub them over with butter, and season
with pepper and salt. The exact time for broiling steaks must be
determined by taste, whether they are liked underdone or well done ;
more than from 8 to 10 minutes for a steak 3 inch in thickness, we
think, would spoil and dry up the juices of the meat. Great expe-
dition is necessary in sending broiled steaks to table ; and, to have them
in perfection, they should not be cooked till everything else prepared
for dinner has been dished up, as their excellence entirely depends
on their being served very hot. Garnish with scraped horseradish, ox-
slices of cucumber. Oyster, tomato, onion, and many other sauces,,
are frequent accompaniments to rump-steak, but true lovers of this.
English dish generally reject all additions but pepper and salt.

Time. — 8 to 10 minutes. Average cost, Is. per lb.

Sufficient.— k\low i lb. to each person ; if the party consist entirely
of gentlemen, £ lb. will not be too much.

Seasonable all the year, but not good in the height of summer, as
the meat cannot hang long enough to be tender.

DrFFEEENT Seasons f°b Beef.— We have already stated ( see No. 593) that the
u 1.1 0 ?xen> like the South-down in mutton, stands first in excellence. It

should be borne in mind, however, that each county has its particular season, and that
r!. “ lnd°,n • otl";1' larSe packets are always supplied by those counties whose meat,

liom local circumstances, is m the best condition at the time. Thus, the season in
JXorlolk, trom which the Scots come (these being the principal oxen bred by the Norfolk

286

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and Suffolk graziers), commences about Christmas and terminates about June, when
this brood begins to fall off, their place being taken by grass-fed oxen. A large quantity
of most excellent meat is sent to the “ dead markets’5 from Scotland, and some of the
best London butchers are supplied from this source.

BROILED BEEE AND MUSHROOM SAUCE
(Cold Meat Cookery).

612. Ingredients. — 2 or 3 dozen small button mushrooms, 1 oz. of
butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup, mashed potatoes, slices of cold roast beef.

Mode. — Wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel,
and salt; put them in a stewpan with the butter, seasoning, and
ketchup ; stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done, when
pour it in the middle of mashed potatoes, browned. Then place
round the potatoes slices of cold roast beef, nicely broiled, over a clear
fire. In making the mushroom sauce, the ketchup may be dispensed
with, if there is sufficient gravy.

Time. — 4 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 8(7.

Seasonable from August to October.

BROILED BEEF AND OYSTER SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).

613. Ingredients. — 2 dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace,
2 oz. of butter, 4 teaspoonful of flour, cayenne and salt to taste,
mashed potatoes, a few slices of cold roast beef.

Mode. — Put the oysters in a stewpan, with their liquor strained ;
add tin! cloves, mace, butter, flour, and seasoning, and let them
simmer gently for 5 minutes. Have ready in the centre of a dish
.round walls of mashed potatoes, browned ; into the middle pour the
oyster sauce, quite hot, and round the potatoes place, in layers, slices
of the beef, which should be previously broiled over a nice clear
fire.

Time. — 5 minutes. Average cost, Is. 6(7., exclusive of the cold meat.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from September to April.

BROILED BEEF-BONES.

614. Ingredients. — The bones of ribs or sirloin ; salt, pepper, and
cayenne.

Mode. — Separate the bones, taking care that the meat on them is
not too thick in any part ; sprinkle them well with the above season-
ing, and broil over a very clear fire. W hen nicely browned, they are
done ; but do not allow them to blacken.

BEEF.

2S7

TO DRESS A BULLOCK’S HEART.

615, Ingredients. — 1 heart, stuffing of veal forcemeat, No. 417.

Mode. — Put the heart into warm water to soak for 2 hours; then*
wipe it well with a cloth, and, after cutting off the lobes, stuff the
inside with a highly- seasoned forcemeat (No. 417). Fasten it in, by
means of a needle and coarse thread ; tie the heart up in paper, and set
it before a good fire, being very particular to keep it well basted, or it
will eat dry, there being very little of its own fat. Two or three
minutes before serving, remove the paper, baste well, and serve with
good gravy and red-currant jelly or melted butter. If the heart is
very large, it will require 2 hours, and, covered with a caul, may be
baked as well as roasted.

Time. — Large heart, 2 hours. Average cost, 2s. 6d.

Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.

Seasonable all the year.

■ Note. — This is an excellent family dish, is very savoury, and, though not seen
at many good tables, may be recommended for its cheapness and economy.

BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK (Cold Meat Cookery).

616. Ingredients.— A few thin slices of cold boiled beef; butter,
cabbage, 1 sliced onion, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. Fry the slices of beef gently in a little butter, taking care
not to dry them up. Lay them on a flat dish, and cover with fried
greens. The greens may be prepared from cabbage sprouts or green
savoys. They should be boiled till tender, well drained, minced, and
placed, till quite hot, in a frying-pan, with butter, a sliced onion,
and seasoning of pepper and salt. When the, onion is done, it is
ready to serve.

Time.— Altogether, £ hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold beef, 3d.

Seasonable at any time. •

COLLARED BEEE.

617. Ingredients.- 7 lbs. of the thin end of the flank of beef,

2 oz. of coarse sugar, 6 oz. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, 1 large handful
of parsley minced, 1 dessertspoonful of minced sage, a bunch of

savoury herbs, ■£ teaspoonful of pounded allspice ; salt and pepper to
taste.

Mode. - -Choose fine tender 'beef, but not too fat ; lay it in a dish ;

28S

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

nib in the sugar, salt, and saltpetre, and let it remain in the pickle

for a week or ten days, turning and
rubbing it every day. Then bone it,
remove all the gristle and the coarse
skin of the inside part, and sprinkle
it thickly with parsley, herbs, spice,
and seasoning in the above proportion,
taking care that the former are finely
minced, and the latter well pounded.
Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly
as possible, in the same shape as shown
in the engraving ; bind it firmly with broad tape, and boil it gently
for 6 hours. Immediately on taking it out of the pot, put it under
a good weight, without undoing it, and let it remain until cold.
This dish is a very nice addition to the breakfast-table.

Time.— 6 hours. Average cost, for this quantity, 4s.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool, and
regularly rubbed and turned every day.

COLLAEED BEEF.

BEEP-COLLOPS.

6 1 8 . Ingredients.'— 2 lbs. of rump-steak, ^lb. of butter, 1 pint of
gravy (water may be substituted for this), salt and pepper to taste,

1 shalot finely minced, i pickled walnut, 1 teaspoonful of capers.
Mode. — Have the steak cut thin, and divide it in pieces about 3

inches long ; beat these with the blade of a knife, and dredge with
flour. Put them in a frying-pan with the butter, and let them fry for
about 3 minutes ; then lay them in a small stewpan, and pour over
them the gravy. Add a piece of butter, kneaded with a little flour,
put in the seasoning and all the other ingredients, and let the
whole simmer, but not boil, for 10 minutes. Serve in a hot covered
dish.

• Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, Is. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

MINCED COLLOPS (an Entree).

619. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of rump-steak, salt and pepper to taste,

2 oz. of butter, 1 onion minced, | pint of water, 1 tablespoonful of
Harvey’s sauce, or lemon -juice, or mushroom ketchup ; 1 small bunch
of savoury herbs.

Mode. — Mince the beef and onion very small, and fry the latter in

BEEF.

289

butter until of a pale brown. Put all the ingredients together in a
stewpan, and boil gently for about 10 minutes ; garnish with sippets of
toasted bread, and serve very hot.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, Is. per lb.

Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

CURRIED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).

620. Ingredients. — A few slices of tolerably lean cold roast or
boiled beef, 3 oz. of butter, 2 onions, 1 wineglassful of beer, 1 dessert-
spoonful of curry powder.

Mode. — Cut up the beef into pieces about 1 inch square, put the
butter into a stewpan with the onions sliced, and fry them of a light-
brown colour. Add all the other ingredients, and stir gently over a
brisk fire for about 10 minutes. Should this be thought too dry, more
beer, or a spoonful or two of gravy or water, may be added ; but a good
curry should not be very thin. Place it in a deep dish, with an
edging of dry boiled rice, in the same manner as for other curries.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4c/.

Seasonable in winter.

TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPING.

621. Good and fresh dripping answers very well for basting every-
thing except game and poultry, and, when well clarified, serves for frying
nearly as well as lard ; it should be kept in a cool place, and will
remain good some time. To clarify it, put the dripping into a basin,
pour over it boiling water, and keep stirring the whole to wash
away the impurities. Let it stand to cool, when the water and dirty
sediment will settle at the bottom of the basin. Eemove the dripping,
and put it away in jars or basins for use.

ANOTHER WAY.

622. Put the dripping into a clean saucepan, and let it boil for a few
minutes over a slow fire, and be careful to skim it well. Let it stand
to cool a little, then strain it through a piece of muslin into jars for
use. Beef dripping is preferable to any other for cooking purposes, as,
with mutton dripping, there is liable to be a tallowy taste and smell.

ROAST FILLET OF BEEF (Larded).

C23. Ingredients. — About 4 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin,

290

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1 onion, a small bunch of parsley, salt and pepper to taste, sufficient
vinegar to cover the meat, glaze, Spanish sauce, No. 411.

Mode. — Lard the beef with bacon, and put it into a pan with suffi-
cient vinegar to cover it, with an onion sliced, parsley, and seasoning,
and let it remain in this pickle for 12 hours. Roast it before a nice
clear fire for about hour, and, when done, glaze it. Pour some
Spanish sauce round the beef, and the remainder serve in a tureen. It
may be garnished with Spanish onions boiled and glazed.

Time. — lj hour. Average cost, exclusive of the sauce, 4s.

Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

FRICANDEAB OF BEEF.

624. Ingredients. — About 3 lbs. of the inside fillet of the sirloin
(a piece of the rump may be substituted for this), pepper and salt to
taste, 3 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 whole allspice, 1 pint of stock
No. 105, or water, 1 glass of sherry, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 2
shalots, bacon.

Mode. — Cut some bacon into thin strips, and sprinkle over them a
seasoning of pepper and salt, mixed with cloves, mace, and allspice,
well pounded. Lard the beef with these, put it into a stewpan with
the stock or water, sherry, herbs, shalots, 2 cloves, and more pepper
and salt. Stew the meat gently until tender, when take it out, cover
it closely, skim off all the fat from the gravy, and strain it. Set it
on the fire, and boil, till it becomes a glaze. Glaze the larded side
of the beef with this, and serve on sorrel sauce, which is made as
follows : — Wash and pick some sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with
only the water that hangs about it. Keep stirring, to prevent its
burning, and when done, lay it in a sieve to drain. Chop it, and
stew it with a small piece of butter and 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of good
gravy, for an hour, and rub it through a tammy. If too acid, add a
little sugar ; and a little cabbage-lettuce boiled with the sorrel will
be found an improvement.

Time. — 2 hours to gently stew the meat.

Average cost, for this quantity, 4s.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

FRIED SALT BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery)-

625. Ingredients. — A few slices of cold salt beef, pepper to taste,
z lb. of butter, mashed potatoes.

Mode. — Cut any part of cold salt beef into thin slices, fry them

BEEF.

291

gently in butter, and season with a little pepper. Have ready some
very hot mashed potatoes, lay the slices of beef on them, and garnish
with 3 or 4 pickled gherkins. Cold salt beef, warmed in a little
liquor from mixed pickle, drained, and served as above, will be found
good.

Time. — About 5 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, id.

Seasonable at any time.

FRIED RUMP-STEAK.

626. Ingredients. — Steaks, butter or clarified dripping.

Mode. — Although broiling is a far superior method of cooking steaks
to frying them, yet, when the cook is not very expert, the latter mode
may be adopted ; and, when properly done, the dish may really look
very inviting, and the flavour be good. The steaks should be cut
rather thinner than for broiling, and with a small quantity of fat to
each. Put some butter or clarified dripping into a frying-pan ; let it
get quite hot, then lay in the steaks. Turn them frequently until
done, which will be in about 8 minutes, or rather more, should the
steaks be very thick. Serve on a very hot dish, in which put a small
piece of butter and a tablespoonful of ketchup, and season with pepper
and salt. They should be sent to table quickly, as, when cold, the
steaks are entirely spoiled.

Time. — 8 minutes for a medium-sized steak, rather longer for a
very thick one.

Average cost, Is. per lb.

Seasonable all the year, but not good in summer, as the meat cannot
hang to get tender.

N ote. — Where much gravy is liked, make it in the following manner : — As
soon as the steaks are done, dish them, pour a little boiling water into the
frying-pan, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, a small piece of butter, and a
tablespoonful of Harvey’s sauce or mushroom ketchup. Hold the pan over
the fire for a minute or two, just let the gravy simmer, then pour on the steak,
and serve.

A Frenchman's Opinion or Beke.— The following is translated from a celebrated
modern French work, the production of one who in Paris enjoys a great reputation as
cook and chemist The flesh of the ox, to be in the best condition, should be taken
from an animal of from four to six years old, and neither too fat nor too lean. This
mcaj> which possesses in the highest degree the most nutritive qualities, is generally
easily digested ; stock is made from it, and it is eaten boiled, broiled, roasted, stewed
braised, and in a hundred other different ways. Beef is the foundation of stock, gravies’
bruises, &c. ; its nutritious and succulent gravy gives body and flavour to numberless
ragouts. It is an cxhaustless mine in the hands of a skilful artist, and is truly the
kingot the kitchen. Without it, no soup, no gravy; and its absence would produce
almost a laimne in the civilized world !

BEEF FRITTERS (Cold Meat Cookery).

627. Ingredients.— The remains of cold roast beef, pepper and

292

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

salt to taste, 3 lb. of Hour, 3 pint of water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites
of 2 eggs.

Mode,— Mix very smoothly, and by degrees, the flour with the
above proportion of water; stir in 2 oz. of butter, which must be
melted, but not oiled, and, just before it is to be used, add the whites
of two well-whisked eggs. Should the batter be too thick, more
water must be added. Pare down the cold beef into thin shreds,
season with pepper and salt, and mix it with the batter. Drop a
small quantity at a time into a pan of boiling lard, and fry from 7 to 10
minutes, according to the size. When done on one side, turn and
brown them on the other. Let them dry for a minute or two before
the fire, and serve on a folded napkin. A small quantity of finely-
minced onions, mixed with the batter, is an improvement.

Time. — From 7 to 10 minutes.

Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

HASHED BEEF (Cold Meat Cookery).

628. Ingredients. — Gravy saved from the meat, 1 teaspoonful of
tomato sauce, 1 teaspoonful of Harvey’s sauce, 1 teaspoonful of good
mushroom ketchup, 3 glass of port wine or strong ale, pepper and salt
to taste, a little flour to thicken, 1 onion finely minced, a few slices of
cold roast beef.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients but the beef into a stewpan with
whatever gravy may have been saved from the meat the day it was
roasted ; let these simmer gently for 10 minutes, then take the stewpan
off the fire ; let the gravy cool, and skim off the fat. Cut the beef
into thin slices, dredge them with flour, and lay them in the gravy ;
let the whole simmer gently for 5 minutes, but not boil, or the meat
will be tough and hard. Serve very hot, and garnish with sippets
of toasted bread.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, id.

Seasonable at any time.

II.

629. Ingredients. — The remains of ribs or sirloin of beef, 2 onions,

1 carrot, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blade of
pounded mace, thickening of flour, rather more than 1 pint of water.

Mode. — Take off all the meat from the bones of ribs or sirloin of
beef ; remove the*outside brown and gristle ; place the meat on one
side, and well stew tho bones and pieces, with the above ingredients,
for about 2 hours, till it becomes a strong gravy, and is reduced to

BEEF.

293

rather more than 4 pint; strain this, thicken with a teaspoonful of
flour, and let the gravy cool ; skim off all the fat ; lay in the meat,
let it get hot through, but do not allow it to boil, and garnish with
sippets of toasted bread. The gravy may be flavoured as in the
preceding recipe.

rime.— Rather more than 2 hours.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 2 cl.

Seasonable at any time.

iV0<g.r_Either of the above recipes may be served in walls of mashed,
potatoes browned ; in which - case the sippets should be omitted. Be careful,
that hashed meat does not boil, or it will become tough.

TO PREPARE HUNG BEEP.

630. This is preserved by salting and drying, either with or with-
out smoke. Hang up the beef 3 or 4 days, till it becomes tender, but?
take care it does not begin to spoil ; then salt it in the usual way, eithei
by dry-salting or by brine, with bay-salt, brown sugar, saltpetre,
and a little pepper and allspice ; afterwards roll it tight in a cloth,
and hang it up in a warm, but not hot place, for a fortnight.or more,.,
till it is sufficiently hard. If required to have a little of the smoky
flavour, it may be hung for some time in a chimney-corner, or smoked
in any other way ; it will keep a long time.

HUNTER’S BEEP.

631. Ingredients. — For a round of beef weighing 25 lbs. allow
3 oz. of saltpetre, 3 oz. of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg,.
2 oz. of allspice, 1 lb. of salt, J lb. bay-salt.

Mode. — Let the beef hang for 2 or 3 days, and remove the bone.
Pound spices, salt, &c. in the above proportion, and let them be reduced,
to the finest powder. Put the beef into a pan, rub all the ingre-
dients well into it, and turn and rub it every day for rather more
than a fortnight. When it has been sufficiently long in pickle, wash
the meat, bind it up securely with tape, and put it into a pan with
5 pint of water at the bottom ; mince some suet, cover the top of the
meat with it, and over the pan put a common crust of flour and water ;
bake for 6 hours, and, when cold, remove the paste. Save the gravy
that flows from it, as it adds greatly to the flavour of hashes, stews,
&c. The beef may be glazed and garnished with meat jelly.

Time. — 6 hours.

Seasonable all the year.

Note. — In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it not being
generally required to be kept for a great length of time, a less quantity of

294

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

salt and a larger quantity of other matters more adapted to retain mellowness
in meat, may bo omployod, which could not be adopted by the curer of the
immense quantities of meat required to bo preserved for victualling the ship-
ping of this maritime country. Sugar, which is well known to possess the
preserving principle in a very groat degree, without the pungency and astrin-
gency of salt, may be, and is, very generally used in the preserving of meat
for family consumption. Although it acts without corrugating or contracting
the fibres of meat, as is the case in the action of salt, and, therefore, does not
impair its mellowness, yet its use in sufficient quantities for preservative
effect, without the addition of other antiseptics, would impart a flavour not
agreeable to the taste of many persons. It may be used, however, together
with salt, with the greatest advantage in imparting mildness and mellowness
to cured meat, in a proportion of about one part by weight to four of the
mixture ; and, perhaps, now that sugar is so much lower in price than it
was in former years, one of the obstructions to its more frequent use is
removed.

TO DRESS BEEP KIDNEY.

632. Ingredients. — 1 kidney, clarified butter, pepper and salt to
taste, a small quantity of highly-seasoned gravy, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, l teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

Mode. — Cut the kidneys into neat slices, put them into warm water
to soak for 2 hours, and change the water 2 or 3 times ; then put
them on a clean cloth to dry the water from them, and lay them in a
frying-pan with some clarified butter, and fry them of a nice brown ;
season each side with pepper and salt, put them round the dish, and
the gravy in the middle. Before pouring the gravy7 in the dish, add
the lemon-juice and sugar.

Time.— From 5 to 10 minutes. Average cost, 9 d. each.

Seasonable at any time.

633. Ingredients. — 1 kidney, 1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley,
1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, \ pint of
gravy, No. 438, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry.

Mode.- Take off a little of the kidney fat, mince it very fine, and
put it in a frying-pan ; slice the kidney, sprinkle over it parsley and
shalots in the above proportion, add a seasoning of pepper and salt,
and fry it of a nice brown. When it is done enough, dredge over a
little flour, and pour in the gravy and sherry. Let it just simmer, but
not boil any more, or the kidney would harden ; serve very hot, and
garnish with croutons. Where the flavour of the shalot is disliked, it
may be omitted, and a small quantity of savoury herbs substituted
for it.

BEEF.

295

Time.— From 5 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the slices.

Average cost, 9 cl. each. Sufficient for 3 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

hi.

A more Simple Method.

634. Cut the kidney into thin slices, flour them, and fry of a nice
brown. When done, make a gravy in the pan by pouring away the
fat, putting in a small piece of butter, 5 pint of boiling water, pepper
and salt, and a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Let the gravy
just boil up, pour oyer the kidney, and serve.

BOILED MARROW-BONES.

635. Ingredients.— Bones, a small piece of common paste, a floured
cloth.

Mode. — Have the bones neatly sawed into convenient sizes, and
cover the ends with a small piece of common crust, made with flour
and water. Over this tie a floured cloth, and place them upright in a
saucepan of boiling water, taking care there is sufficient to cover the
bones. Boil them for 2 hours, remove the cloth and paste, and serve .
them upright on a napkin with dry toast. Many persons clear the
marrow from the bones after they are cooked, spread it over a slice of
toast and add a seasoning of pepper ; when served in this manner, it
must be very expeditiously sent to table, as it so soon gets cold.

Time. — 2 hours.

Seasonable at any time.

JST ote. — Marrow-bones may be baked after preparing them as in the pre-
ceding recipe ; they should be laid in a deep dish, and baked for 2 hours.

Mabbow-Boxes. — BonCB are formed of a dense cellular tissue of membranous matter,
made stiff and rigid by insoluble earthy salts ; of which, phosphate of lime iS' the most
abundant. In a large bone, the insoluble matter is
generally deposited in such a maimer as to leave a
cavity, into which a fatty substance, distinguished by
the name of marrow, is thrown. Hollow cylindrical
bones possess the qualities of strength and lightness
in a remarkable degree. If bones were entirely solid,
they would be unnecessarily heavy ; and if their mate-
rials were brought into smaller compass, they would be
weaker, because the strength of a bone is in proportion maebow-bones.

to the distance at which its fibres are from the centre. Some animals, it must, how-
ever, be observed, have no cavities in the centre of their bones ; such as the whale tribe
skate, and turtles.

MINCED BEEP (Cold Meat Cookery).

636. Ingredients. — 1 oz. of butter, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoonfuls
of gravy left from the meat, 1 tablespoonful of strong ale, £ a tea -

296

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

spoonful of flour, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of lean roast
beef.

Mode. — Put into a stewpan the butter with an onion chopped fine ;
add the gravy, ale, and § a teaspoonful of flour to thicken ; season
with pepper and salt, and stir these ingredients over the fire until the
onion is a rich brown. Cut, but do not chop the meat very fine, add
it to the gravy, stir till quite hot, and serve. Garnish with sippets
of toasted bread. Be careful in not allowing the gravy to boil after
the meat is added, as it would render it hard and tough.

Time. — About \ hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 3d.

Seasonable at any time.

MIROTON" OF BEEF.

637. Ingredients. — A few slices of cold roast beef, 3 oz. of butter,
salt and pepper to taste, 3 onions, i pint of gravy.

Mode. — Slice the onions and put them into a frying-pan with the
cold beef and butter; place it over the fire, and keep turning and
stirring the ingredients to prevent them burning. When of a pale
brown, add the gravy and seasoning ; let it simmer for a few minutes,
and serve very hot. This dish is excellent and economical.

Time. — 5 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6(7.

Seasonable at any time.

STEWED OX-CHEEK.

638. Ingredients. — 1 cheek, salt and water, 4 or 5 onions, butter
and flour, 6 cloves, 3 turnips, 2 carrots, 1 bay-leaf, 1 head of celery,

1 bunch of savoury herbs, cayenne, black pepper and salt to taste, 1 oz.
of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar,

2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine,
2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce.

Mode. — Have the cheek boned, and prepare it the day before it is to
be eaten, by cleaning and putting it to soak all night in salt and
water. The next day, wipe it dry and clean, and put it into a stew-
pan. Just cover it with water, skim well when it boils, and let it
gently simmer till the meat is quite tender. Slice and fry 3 onions in
a little butter and flour, and put them into the gravy ; add 2 whole
onions, each stuck with 3 cloves, 3 turnips quartered, 2 carrots sliced,
a bay-leaf, 1 head of celery, a bunch of herbs, and seasoning to taste
of cayenne, black pepper, and salt. Let these stew till perfectly
tender ; then take out the cheek, divide into pieces fit to help at table,
skim and strain the gravy, and thicken I3 pint oi it with butter and

BEEF.

297

floixr in the above proportions. Add the vinegar, ketchup, and port
■wine ; put in the pieces of cheek ; let the whole boil up, and serve quite
hot. Send it to table in a ragout-dish. If the colour of the gravy
should not be very good, add a tablespoonfnl of the brownipg, No. 108.

Time.— 4 hours. Average cost, 3 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

FRIED OX-FEET, or COW-HEEL.

639. Ingredients.— Ox-feet, the yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs,
parsley, salt and cayenne to taste, boiling butter.

Mode— Wash, scald, and thoroughly clean the feet, and cut them
into pieces about 2 inches long ; have ready some line bread crumbs
mixed with a little minced parsley, cayenne, and salt ; dip the pieces
of heel into the yolk of egg, sprinkle them with the bread crumbs, and
fry them until of a nice brown in boiling butter.

Time. — i hour. Average cost, 6 cl. each.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Ox-feet may be dressed in various ways, stewed in gravy or plainly
boiled and served with melted butter. When plainly boiled, the liquor will
answer for making sweet or relishing jellies, and also to give richness to soups
1 or gravies.

STEWED OX-TAILS.

640. Ingredients. — 2 ox-tails, 1 onion, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace,
i teaspoonful of whole black pepper, \ teaspoonful of allspice, 1 a tea-
spoonful of salt, a small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of butter
and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon- juice, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom
ketchup.

Mode. — Divide the tails at the joints, wash, and put them into a
stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and set them on the fire;
when the water boils, remove the scum, and pdd the onion cut into
rings, the spice, seasoning, and herbs. Cover the stewpan closely, and
let the tails simmer very gently until tender, which will be in about
2§ hours. Take them out, make a thickening of butter and flour, add
it to the gravy, and let it boil for \ hour. Strain it through a sieve
into a saucepan, put back the tails, add the lemon-juice and ketchup ;
let the whole just boil up, and serve. Garnish with croutons or sippets
of toasted bread.

Time. — 24 hours to stew the tails.

Average cost, 9 d. to Is. 6 d., according to the season.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Seasonable all the year.

298

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

The Tails of Animals. — In the class Mammalia, the vertebral column or backbone
presents only slight modifications, and everywhere shows the same characteristics as in
man, who stands at the head of this division of the animal kingdom. The length of this
column, however, varies much, and the number of vertebra: of which it is composed is
far from being uniform. These numerical differences principally depend on the unequal
development of the caudal portion, or tail-end, of the column. Thus, the tail-forming
vertebra sometimes do not exist at all, — amongst certain bats for example ; in other
instances we reckon forty, fifty, and even upwards of sixty of these bones. Among the
greater number of mammals, the tail is of little use for locomotion, except that it acts in
many cases as does the rudder of a ship, steadying the animal in his rapid movements, and
enabling him to turn more easily and quickly. Among some animals, it becomes a very
powerful instrument of progression. Thus, in the kangaroos and jerboas, the tail forms,
with the hind feet, a kind of tripod from which the animal makes its spring. With most
of the American monkeys it is prehensile, and serves the animal as a fifth hand to sus-
pend itself from the branches of trees ; and, lastly, among the whales, it grows to an
enormous size, and becomes the principal instrument for swimming.

A PICKLE POR TOKG-TTES OR BEEP (K^wmarket Recipe).

641. Ingredients. — 1 gallon of soft water, 3 lbs. of coarse salt, 6 0 z.
of coarse brown sugar, § oz. of saltpetre.

Mode. — Put all tbe ingredients into a saucepan, and let them boil
for i hour, clear off the scum as it rises, and when done pour the
pickle into a pickling-pan. Let it get cold, then put in the meat, and
allow it to remain in the pickle from 8 to 14 days, according to the size.
It will keep good for 6 months if well boiled once a fortnight. Tongues
will take 1 month or 6 weeks to be properly cured ; and, in salting
meat, beef and tongues should always be put in separate vessels.

Time. — A moderate-sized tongue should remain in the pickle about
a month, and be turned every day.

POTTED BEEP.

642. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of lean beef, 1 tablespoonful of water,
i lb. of butter, a seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, pounded mace,
and black pepper.

Mode. — Procure a nice piece of lean beef, as free as possible from
gristle, skin, &c., and put it into a jar (if at
hand, one with a lid) with 1 tablespoonful of
water. Cover it closely, and put the jar into a
saucepan of boiling water, letting the water
come within 2 inches of the top of the jar.
Boil gently for 3i hours, then take the beef,
chop it very small with a chopping-knife, and
pound it thoroughly in a mortar. Mix with it by degrees all, or
a portion, of the gravy that will have run from it, and a little clarified
butter ; add the seasoning, put it in small pots for use, and cover
with a little butter just warmed and poured over. If much gravy is

BEEF.

299

added to it, it 'will keep but a short time ; on the contrary, if a large
proportion of butter is used, it may be preserved for some time.

Time. — 3s hours. Average cost, for this quantity, Is. 8c?.

Seasonable at any time.

POTTED BEEP (Cold Meat Cookery).

II.

643. Ingeedients. — The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, 1 lb.
of butter, cayenne to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace.

Mode. — As we have stated in recipe No. 608, the outside slices of
boiled beef may, with a little trouble, be converted into a very nice
addition to the breakfast-table. Cut up the meat into small pieces
and pound it well, with a little butter, in a mortar ; add a seasoning of
cayenne and mace, and be very particular that the latter ingredient is
reduced to the finest powder. When all the ingredients are thoroughly
mixed, put it into glass or earthen potting-pots, and pour on the top
a coating of clarified butter.

Seasonable at any time.

Note.— If cold roast beef is used, remove all pieces of gristle and dry outside
pieces, as these do not pound well.

Preserved Meats. — When an organic substance, like the flesh of animals, is heated
to the boiling-point, it loses the property of passing into a state of fermentation and
decay. Fresh animal milk, as is well known, coagulates, after having been kept for two
or three days, into a gelatinous mass ; but it may be preserved for an indefinite period,
as a perfectly sweet liquid, if it be heated daily to the boiling-point. The knowledge of
this effect of an elevated temperature has given rise to a most important branch of in-
dustry,— namely, the preparation of preserved meats for the use of the navy and merchant
service. At Leith, in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, at Aberdeen, at Bordeaux, at
Marseilles, and in many parts of Germany, establishments of enormous magnitude exist,
in which soup, vegetables, and viands of every description are prepared, in such a manner
that they retain their freshness for years. The prepared aliments are inclosed in canisters
of tinned iron plate, the covers are soldered air-tight, and the canisters exposed to the
temperature of boiling water for three or four tours. The aliments thus acquire a
stability, which one may almost say is eternal ; and when a canister is opened, after the
lapse of several years, its contents are found to be .unaltered in taste, colour, and
smell. We are indebted to the French philosopher Gay-Lussac for this beautiful
practical application of the discovery that boiling checks fermentation. An exclusive
salt-meat diet is extremely injurious to the health ; and, in former times, thousands of
ipariners lost their lives for the want of fresh aliments during long voyages. We are
rorry to say that the preserved meats are sometimes carelessly prepared, and, though
the statement seems incredible, sometimes adulterated. Dr. Lankester, who has done
so much to expose the frauds of trade, that he ought to be regarded as a public
benefactor, says that he has seen tilings which were utterly unfit tor food, shipped as
preserved meats. Surely, as ho observes, there ought to be some superintendent to
examine the so-called articles of food that are taken on board ship, so that the poor men
who have been fighting our battles abroad may run no risk of being starved or poisoned
on their way home.

BIB OF BEEF BONES.

(.1 Pretty Dish.)

644. Ingeedients. — Ilib of beef bones, 1 onion chopped fine, a few
slices of carrot and turnip, l pint of gravy.

300 MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode— The bones for this dish should have left on them a slight
covering of meat ; saw them into pieces 3 inches long ; season them
with pepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan with the remaining
ingredients. Stew gently, until the vegetables are tender, and serve
on a iiat dish within walls of mashed potatoes.

Time. — if hour. Average cost, exclusive of the bones, Id.
Seasonable at any time.

BEEF RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery).

645. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast beef ; to each pound
of meat allow £ lb. of bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a few
chopped savoury herbs, i a teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 1 or 2
eggs, according to the quantity of meat.

Mode. — Mince the beef very fine, which should be rather lean, and
mix with this bread crumbs, herbs, seasoning, and lemon-peel, in the
above proportion, to each pound of meat. Make all into a thick paste
with 1 or 2 eggs ; divide into balls or cones, and fry a rich brown.
Garnish the dish with fried parsley, and send with them to table some
good brown gravy in a tureen. Instead of garnishing with fried
parsley, gravy may be poured in the dish, round the rissoles : in this
case, it will not be necessary to send any in a tureen.

Time. — From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size.

Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 5 d.

Seasonable at any time.

ROLLED BEEF, to eat like Hare.

646. Ingredients. — About 5 lbs. of the inside of the sirloin, 2
glasses of port wine, 2 glasses of vinegar, a small quantity of force-
meat (No. 417), 1 teaspoonful of pounded allspice.

Mode. — Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in 1 glass of
port wine and 1 glass of vinegar, mixed, and let it remain for 2 days.
Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, lay it on the meat, and bind it up
securely. Roast it before a nice clear fire, and baste it with 1 glass
each of port wine and vinegar, with which mix a teaspoonful of
pounded allspice. Serve, with a good gravy in the dish, and send red-
currant jelly to table with it.

Time.— A. piece of 5 lbs. about l.j hour before a brisk lire.

Average cost, for this quantity, os. 4 d.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

BEEF.

301

BEEP ROLLS (Cold Meat Cookery).

647. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, sea-
soning to taste of salt, pepper, and minced herbs ; puff paste.

Mode. — Mince the beef tolerably fine with a small amount of its
own fat ; add a seasoning of pepper, salt, and chopped herbs ; put the
whole into a roll of puff paste, and hake for i hour, or rather longer,
should the roll he very large. Beef patties may he made of cold meat,
hy mincing and seasoning beef as directed above, and baking in a rich
puff paste in patty-tins.

Time. — 1 hour.

Seasonable at any time.

MINIATURE ROUND OP BEEP.

(An Excellent Dish for a Small Family.)

648. Ingredients. — From 5 to 10 lbs. of rib of beef, sufficient brine
to cover the meat.

Mode. — Choose a fine rib, have the bone removed, rub some salt
over the inside, and skewer the meat up into a nice round form, and
bind it with tape. Put it into sufficient brine to cover it (the brine
should be made by recipe No. 654), and let it remain for 6 days,
turning the meat every day. When required to be dressed, drain from
the pickle, and put the meat into very hot water ; let it boil rapidly
for a few minute^, when draw the pot to the side of the fire, and let
it simmer very gently until done. Remove the skewer, and replace it
by a plated or silver one. Carrots and turnips should be served with
this dish, and may be boiled with the meat.

Time. — A small round of 8 lbs., about 2 hours after the water
boils ; one of 12 lbs., about 3 hours.

Average cost, 2d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Should the joint be very small, 4 or 5 days will be sufficient time to
salt it.

BRISKET OP BEEP, a la Plamande.

649. Ingredients.— About 6 or 8 lbs. of the brisket of beef, 4 or 5
slices of bacon, 2 carrots, 1 onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and
pepper to taste, 4 cloves, 4 whole allspice, 2 blades of mace.

Mode. — Choose that portion of the brisket which contains the
gristle, trim it, and put it into a stewjan with the slices of bacon,
which should be put under and over the meat. Add the vegetables,

302

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

herbs, spices, and seasoning, and cover with a little weak stock or
water ; close the stewpan as hermetically as possible, and simmer
very gently for 4 hours. Strain the liquor, reserve a portion of it for
sauce, and the remainder boil quickly over a sharp lire until reduced
to a glaze, with which glaze the meat. Garnish the dish with scooped
carrots and turnips, and when liked, a little cabbage ; all of which
must be cooked separately. Thicken and flavour the liquor that was
saved for sauce, pour it round the meat, and serve. The beef may
also be garnished with glazed onions, artichoke-bottoms, &c.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, 7 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Feench Beef. — It has been all but universally admitted, that the beef of France is
greatly inferior in quality to that of England, owing to inferiority of pasturage.
M. Curmer, however, one of the latest writers on the culinary art, tells us that this is
a vulgar error, and that French beef is far superior to that of England. This is mere
vaunting on the part of our neighbours, who seem to want la gloire iu everything; and
we should not deign to notice it, if it had occurred in a work of small pretensions ; but
H. Curmer’s book professes to he a complete exposition of the scientific principles of
cookery, and holds a high rank in the didactic literature of France. We half suspect
that M. Curmer obtained his knowledge of English beef in the same way as did the
poor Frenchman, whom the late Mr. Mathews, the comedian, so humorously described.
Mr. Lewis, in his “Physiology of Common Life,” has thus revived the story of the
beef-eating sou of France : — “A Frenchman was one day blandly remonstrating against
the supercilious scorn expressed by Englishmen for the beef of France, which he, for
his part, did not find so inferior to that of England. ‘ I have been two times in England,’
he remarked, ‘ but I nevere find the bif so superieur to ours. I find it vary conveenient
that they bring it you on leetle pieces of stick, for one penny ; but I do not find the bif
superieur.' On hearing this, the Englishman, red with astonishment, exclaimed, ‘ Good
heavens, sir ! you have been eating cat’s meat.’ ” No, M. Curmer, we are ready to
acknowledge the superiority of your eookery, but we have long since made up our minds
as to the inferiority of your raw material.

BEEF OLIVES.

650. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of rump-steak, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful
of minced savoury kerbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of stock,
No. 105, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 2 tablespoonfuls of any store sauce,
a slight thickening of butter and flour.

Mode. — Have the steaks cut rather thin, slightly beat them to make
them level, cut them into 6 or 7 pieces, brush over with egg, and
sprinkle with herbs, which should be very finely minced ; season
with pepper and salt, and rollup the pieces tightly, and fasten with a
small skewer. Put the stock in a stewpan that will exactly hold them,
for by being pressed together, they will keep their shape better ; lay
in the rolls of meat, cover them with the bacon, cut in thin slices,
and over that put a piece of paper. Stew them very gently for full
2 hours ; for the slower they are done the better. Take them out,
remove the skewers, thicken the gravy with butler and flour, and

BEEF.

303

flavour with any store sauce that may he preferred. Give one boil,
pour over the meat, and serve.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, Is. per pound.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

rr.

( Economical .)

651. Ingredients. — The remains of underdone cold roast beef,
bread crumbs, 1 shalot finely minced, pepper and salt to taste, gravy
made from the beef bones, thickening of butter and flour, 1 table-
spoonful of mushroom ketchup.

Mode. — Cut some slices of underdone roast beef about half an inch
thick ; sprinkle over them some bread crumbs, minced shalot, and a
little of the fat and seasoning ; roll them, and fasten with a small
skewer. Have ready some gravy made from the beef hones ; put in
the pieces of meat, and stew them till tender, which will he in about
1? hour, or rather longer. Arrange the meat in a dish, thicken and
flavour the gravy, and pour it over the meat, when it is ready to
serve.

Time. — 1| hour. Average cost, exclusive of the beef, 2d.

Seasonable at any time.

BROILED OX-TAIL (an Entree).

652. Ingredients— 2 tails, 1§ pint of stock, No. 105, salt and
cayenne to taste, bread crumbs, 1 egg.

Mode. — Joint and cut up the tails into convenient-sized pieces, and
put them into a stewpan, with the stock, cayenne, and salt, and, if
liked very savoury, a bunch of sweet herbs. Let them simmer gently
for about 2| hours ; then take them out, drain them, and let them
cool. Beat an egg upon a plate ; dip in each piece of tail, and,
afterwards, throw them into a dish of bread crumbs ; broil them over
a clear fire, until of a brownish colour on both sides, and serve with a
good gravy, or any sauce that may be preferred.

Time. — About 2| hours. Average cost, from 9 cl. to Is. Gd., according
to the season.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

i\ote. these may bo more easily prepared by putting the tails in a brisk
oven, after they have been dipped in egg and bread-crumb ; and, when brown,
thej are done. They must be boiled the same time as for broiling.

304

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Strange Tails. — Naturalists cannot explain the uses of some of the strange tails
borne by animals. In tho Egyptian and Syrian sheep, for instance, the tail grows so
largo, that it is not unfrequently supported upon a sort of little cart, in order to prevent
inconvenience to the animal. This monstrous appendage sometimes attains a weight of
seventy, eighty, or even a hundred pounds.

TO DRESS BEEP PALATES (an Entree).

653. Ingredients. — 4 palates, sufficient gravy to cover them (No.
438), cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, i table-
spoonful of pickled-onion liquor, thickening of butter and flour.

Mode. — Wash the palates, and put them into a stewpan, with
sufficient water to cover them, and let them boil until perfectly
tender, or until the upper skin may be easily peeled off. Have ready
sufficient gravy (No. 438) to cover them; add a good seasoning of
cayenne, and thicken with roux, No. 525, or a little butter kneaded
with flour ; let it boil up, and skim. Cut the palates into square
pieces, put them in the gravy, and let them simmer gently for § hour ;
add ketchup and onion-liquor, give one boil, and serve.

Time. — From 3 to 5 hours to boil the palates.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Palates may be dressed in various ways with sauce tournee, good
onion sauce, tomato sauce, and also served in a vol-au-vent ; but the above
will be found a more simple method of dressing them.

BEEP PICKLE, which may also be used for any kind of Meat,

Tongues, or Hams.

654. Ingredients.— 6 lbs. of salt, 2 lbs. of fine sugar, 3 oz. of
powdered saltpetre, 3 gallons of spring water.

Mode. — Boil all the ingredients gently together, so long as any
scum or impurity arises, which carefully remove ; when quite cold,
pour it over the meat, every part of which must be covered with the
brine. This may be used for pickling any kind of meat, and may be
kept for some time, if boiled up occasionally with an addition of the
ingredients.

Time. — A ham should be kept in the pickle for a fortnight ; a piece
of beef weighing 14 lbs., 12 or 15 days ; a tongue, 10 days or a fort-
night.

Note. — For salting and pickling meat, it is a good plan to rub in ouly half
tho quantity of salt directed, and to let it remain for a day or two to disgorge
and effectually to got rid of the blood and slime ; then rub in tho renfaindci
of tho salt and other ingredient^, and proceed ns above. This rule may be
applied to all the recipes wo have given for salting and pickling meat.

BEEF.

305

TO PICKLE PART OE A ROUND OP BEEP POR HANGING.

655. Ingredients. — For 14 lbs. of a round of beef allow Is lb. of
salt, ^ oz. of powdered saltpetre ; or, 1 lb. of salt, i lb. of sugar, s oz.
of powdered saltpetre.

3Iocle. — Rub in, and sprinkle either of the above mixtures on
14 lbs. of meat. Keep it in an earthenware pan, or a deep wooden
tray, and turn twice a week during 3 weeks ; then bind up the beef
tightly with coarse linen tape, and hang it in a kitchen in which afhe
is constantly kept, for 3 weeks. Pork, hams, and bacon may be cured
in a similar way, but will require double the quantity of the salting
mixture ; and, if not smoke-dried, they should lie taken down from
hanging after 3 or 4 weeks, and afterwards kept in boxes or tubs,
amongst dry oat-husks.

Time. — 2 or 3 weeks to remain in the brine ; to be hung 3 weeks.

Seasonable at any time.

Note.- — The meat may be boiled fresh from this pickle, instead of smok-
ing it.

BEEP RAGOUT (Cold Meat Cookery).

6 56. Ingredients. — About 2 lbs. of cold roast beef, 6 onions,
pepper, salt, and mixed spices to taste ; i pint of boiling water, 3
tablespoonfuls of gravy.

Mode. — Cut the beef into rather large pieces, and put them into a
stewpan with the onions, which must be sliced. Season well with
pepper, salt, and mixed spices, and pour over about i pint of boiling
water, and gravy in the above proportion (gravy saved from the
meat answers the purpose) ; let the whole stew very gently for about
2 hours, and serve with pickled walnuts, gherkins, or capers, just
warmed in the gravy.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, id.

Seasonable at any time.

ROAST RIBS OP BEEP.

657. Ingredients.— Beef, a little salt.

Mode. — The fore-rib is considered the primest roasting piece, but
the middle-rib is considered the most economical. Let the meat be
well hung (should the weather permit), and cut off the thin ends
of the bones, which should be salted for a few days, and then boiled.
Put the meat down to a nice clear fire, put some clean dripping into
the pan, dredge the joint with a little Hour, and keep continually

306

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

basting the whole time. Sprinkle some fine salt over it (this must
never be done until the joint is dished, as it draws the juices from
the meat) ; pour the dripping from the pan, put in a little boiling
water slightly salted, and strain the gravy over the meat. Garnish
with tufts of scraped horseradish, and send horseradish sauce to table
with it (see No. 447). A Yorkshire pudding ( see Puddings) sometimes
accompanies this dish, and, if lightly made and well cooked, will be
found a very agreeable addition.

Time. — 10 lbs. of beef, 21 hours; 14 to 16 lbs., from 31 to 4 hours.

Average cost, 8 id. per lb.

Sufficient. — A joint of 10 lbs. sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.

Seaso?iable at any time.

Memobanda in Roasting. — The management of the fire is a point of primary
importance in roasting. A radiant fire throughout the operation is absolutely necessary
to msure a good result. When the article to be dressed is thin and delicate, the fire
may be small ; but when the joint is large, the fire must fill the grate. Meat must
never be put down before a hollow or exhausted fire, which may soon want recruiting :
on the other hand, if the heat of the fire becomes too fierce, the meat must be removed
to a considerable distance till it is somewhat abated. Some cooks always fail in their
roasts, though they succeed in nearly everything else. A French writer on the culinary
art says that anybody can learn how to cook, but oue must be born a roaster. According
to Liebig, beef or mutton cannot be said to be sufficiently roasted until it has acquired,
throughout the whole mass, a temperature of 15S°; but poultry may be well cooked
when the inner parts have attained a temperature of from 130° to 140°. This depends
on the greater amount of blood which beef and mutton contain, the colouring matter of
blood not being coagulable under 158°.

ROAST RIBS OP BEEP, Boned and Rolled (a very Convenient
Joint for a Small Pamily).

658. Ingredients.— 1 or 2 ribs of beef.

Mode. — Choose a fine rib of beef, and have it cut according to the
weight you require, either wide or narrow. Bone and roll the meat
round, secure it with wooden skewers, aDd, if necessary, bind it round
with a piece of tape. Spit the beef firmly, or, if a bottle-jack is used,
put the joint on the hook, and place it near a nice clear fire. Let it
remain so till the outside of the meat is set, when draw it to a distance,
and keep continually basting until the meat is done, which can be
ascertained by the steam from it drawing towards the fire. As this
joint is solid, rather more than j hour must be allowed for each lb.
Remove the skewers, put in a plated or silver one, and send the joint
to table with gravy in the dish, and garnish with tufts of horseradish.
Horseradish sauce, No. 447, is a great improvement to roast beef.

Time. — For 10 lbs. of the rolled ribs, 3 hours (as the joint is very
solid, we have allowed an extra ^ hour) ; for 6 lbs., 11 hour.

Average cost, 8 \d. per lb.

Sufficient. — A joint of 10 lbs. for G or 8 persons.

Seasonable all the year.

BEEF.

307

Note. — When the weight exceeds 10 lbs., we would not advise the above
method of boning and rolling ; only in the case of 1 or 2 ribs, when the joint
cannot stand upright in the dish, and would look awkward. The bones
should be put on with a few vegetables and herbs, and made into stock.

Roast Beef has long been a national dish in England. In most of our patriotic songs
it is contrasted with the fricasseed' frogs, popularly supposed to be the exclusive diet
of Frenchmen.

0 the roast beef of old England,

And 0 the old English roast beef.”

This national chorus is appealed to whenever a song-writer wishes to account for the
valour displayed by Englishmen at sea or on land.

RftAST SIRLOIN OP BEEP.

659. Ingredients. — Beef, a little salt.

Mode. — As a joint cannot be well roasted without a good fire, see
that it is well made up about £ hour before it is required, so that
when the joint is put down, it is clear and bright. Choose a nice sir-
loin, the weight of which should not exceed 16 lbs., as the outside
would be too much done, whilst the inside would not be done enough.
Spit it or hook it on to the jack firmly, dredge it slightly with flour,
and place it near the fire at first, as directed in the preceding recipe.
Then draw it to a distance, and keep continually basting until the
meat is done. Sprinkle a small quantity of salt over it, empty the
dripping-pan of all the dripping, pour in some boiling water slightly
salted, stir it about, and strain over the meat. Garnish with tufts
of horseradish, and send horseradish sauce and Yorkshire pudding to
table with it. For carving, see p. 317.

Time. — A sirloin of 10 lbs., 2i hours; 14 to 16 lbs., about 4 or
H hours.

Average cost, 8 \d. per lb.

Sufficient. — A joint of 10 lbs. for 8 or 9 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

The rump, round, and other pieces of beef are roasted in the same
manner, allowing for solid joints | hour to every lb.

Note. — The abovo is the usual method of roasting meat ; but to have it in
perfection and the juices kept in, the meat should at first be laid close to the
fire, and when the outside is set and firm, drawn away to a good distance, and
then left to roast very slowly ; where economy is studied, this plan would
not answer, as the meat requires to be at the fire double the time ol the
ordinary way of cooking ; consequently, double the quantity of fuel would be
consumed.

Oriots of the word " Sirloin.” — The loin of beef is said to have been knighted by
King Charles II., at Friday Hull, Chingford. The “Merry Monarch" returned to this
from %Ping forest literally “as hungry as a hunter,” and beheld,
witn ueugnt, a huge loin of beef steaming upon the table. “ A noble joint I ” exclaimed

X 2

SOS

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

the king. By St. George, it shall have a title !” Then drawing his sword, he raised it

above the meat, and cried, with mock dignity,
“Loin, we dub. thee knight; henceforward be
Sir Loin!” This anecdote is doubtless apocry-
phal, although the oak table upon which tbe
joint was supposed to have received its knight-
hood, might nave been seen by any one who
visited Friday-Hill House, a few years ago. It
is, perhaps, a pity to spoil so noble a story;
but the interests of truth demand that we
declare that sirloin is probably a corruptibn
of surloin, which signifies the upper part of a
loin, the prefix aur being equivalent to orer or
above. In French we find this joint called sur-
loiige, which so closely resembles our sirloin , that we may safely refer the two words to
a common origin.

SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

TO SALT BEEF.

660. Ingredients. — i- round of beef, 4 oz. of sugar, 1 oz. of powdered
saltpetre, 2 oz. of black pepper, 1 lb. of bay-salt, i lb. of common salt.

Mode. — Rub the meat well with salt, and let it remain for a day, to
disgorge and clear it from slime. The next day, rub it well with the
above ingredients on every side, and let it remain in the pickle for
about a fortnight, turning it every day. It may be boiled fresh from
the pickle, or smoked.

Time. — § round of beef to remain in pickle about a fortnight.

Average cost, 7 d. per lb.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — The aitcli-bonc, flank, or brisket may bo salted and pickled by any
of the recipes we have given tor salting beef, allowing less time for small
joints to remain in the pickle ; for instance, a joint of 8 or 9 lbs. will be
sufficiently salt in about a week.

THE DUTCH WAY TO SALT BEEF.

661. Ingredients. — 10 lbs. of lean beef, 1 lb. of treacle, 1 oz. of
saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt.

Mode. — Rub the beef well with the treacle, and let it remain for
3 days, turning and rubbing it often ; then wipe it, pound the salt
and saltpetre very line, rub these well in, and turn it every day for
10 days. Roll it up tightly in a coarse cloth, and press it under a
large weight ; have it smoked, and turn it upside down every day .
Boil it, and, on taking it out of the pot, put a heavy weight on it to
press it.

Time. — 17 days.

Seasonable at any time.

BEEF SAUSAGES.

6Ga. Ingredients. — To every lb. of suet allow 2 lbs. of lean beef ;
seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and mixed spices.

BEEF.

309

Mode. — Clear the suet from skin, and chop that and the heef as
finely as possible ; season with pepper, salt, and spices, and mix the
whole well together. Make it into flat cakes, and fry of a nice brown.
Many persons pound the meat in a mortar after it is chopped ; but
this is not necessary when the meat is minced finely.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, for this quantity, Is. Gd.

Seasonable at any time.

BEEF-STEAK, Rolled, Roasted, and Stuffed.

663. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of rump-steak, forcemeat No. 417, pepper
and salt to taste, clarified butter.

Mode. — Have the steaks cut rather thick from a well-hung rump
of heef, and sprinkle over them a seasoning of pepper and salt. Make
a forcemeat by recipe No. 417; spread it over half of the steak; roll
it up, bind and skewer it firmly, that the forcemeat may not escape,
and roast it before a nice clear fire for about l j hour, or rather
longer, should the roll be very large and thick. Keep it constantly
basted with butter, and serve with brown gravy, some of which must
be poured round the steak, and the remainder sent to table in a
tureen.

Time. — ll hour. Average cost, Is. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but best in winter.

SLICED AND BROILED BEEF — a Pretty Dish. (Cold Meat

Cookery).

664. Ingredients.— A few slices of cold roast beef, 4 or 5 potatoes,
a thin batter, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. Pare the potatoes as you would peel an apple ; fry the
parings in a thin batter seasoned with salt and pepper, until they
are of a light brown colour, and place them on a dish over some slices
of beef, which should he nicely seasoned and broiled.

Time.— 5 minutes to broil the meat.

Seasonable at any time.

SPICED BEEF (to Serve Cold).

665. Ingredients.— 14 lbs. of the thick flank or rump of beef, ilb.
of coarse sugar, 1 oz. of saltpetre, j lb. of pounded allspice, 1 lb. of
common salt.

Mode. Rub the sugar well into the beef, and let it lay for 12 hours ;
then rub the saltpetre and allspice, both of which should be pounded!

310

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

over the meat, and let it remain for another 12 hours; then rub in
the salt. Turn daily in the liquor for a fortnight, soak it for a feu-
hours in water, dry with a cloth, cover with a coarse paste, put a
little water at the bottom of the pan, and bake in a moderate oven
for 4 hours. If it is not covered with a paste, be careful to put the
beef into a deep vessel, and cover with a plate, or it will be too crisp.
During the time the meat is in the oven it should be turned once or
twice.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, id. per lb.

Seasonable at any time.

Baking Meat. — Baking exerts some unexplained influence on meat, rendering it le3S
savpury and less agreeable than meat which has been roasted. “Those who have
travelled in Germany and France,” writes Mr. Lewis, one of our most popular scientific
authors, “must have repeatedly marvelled at the singular uniformity in the flavour, or
want of flavour, of the various ‘ roasts’ served up at the tall'e-d’hote." The general
explanation is, that the German and French meat is greatly inferior in quality to that
of England and Holland, owing to the inferiority of paBturage ; aild doubtless this is one
cause, but it is not the chief cause. The meat is inferior, but the cooking is mainly at
fault. The meat is scarcely ever roasted, because there is no coal, and firewood is
expensive. The meat is therefore baked; and the consequence of this baking is, that no
meat is eatable or eaten, with its own gravy, but is always accompanied by some sauce
more or less piquant. The Germans generally believe that in England we' eat our beef
and mutton almost raw ; they shudder at our gravy, as if it were so much blood.

STEWED BEEF or BUMP STEAK (an Entree).

666. Ingredients. — About 2 lbs. of beef or rump steak, 3 onions,
2 turnips, 3 carrots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter, £ pint of water, 1 teaspoonful
of salt, | do. of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of
flour.

Mode. — Have the steaks cut tolerably thick and rather lean ; divide
them into convenient-sized pieces, and fry them in the butter a nice
brown on both sides. Cleanse and pare the vegetables, cut the onions
and carrots into thin slices, and the turnips into dice, and fry these in
the same fat that the steaks were done in. Put all into a saucepan,
add i pint of water, or rather more should it be necessary, and simmer
very gently for 2f or 3 hours ; when nearly done, skim well, add salt,
pepper, and ketchup in the above proportions, and thicken with a
tablespoonful of flour mixed with 2 of cold w-ater. Let it boil up for
a minute or two after the thickening is added, and serve. W hen a
vegetable-scoop is at hand, use it to cut the vegetables in fanciful
shapes, and tomato, Harvey’s sauce, or walnut-liquor may be-used to
flavour the gravy. It is less rich if stewed the previous day, so that
the fat may be taken off when cold ; when wanted for table, it will
merely require warming through.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, Is. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

BEEF.

311

STEWED BEEF AND CELERY SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).

667. Ingredients. — 3 roots of celery, 1 pint of gravy, No. 436,
2 onions sliced, 2 lbs. of cold roast or boiled beef.

Mode. — Cut the celery into 2-inch pieces, put them in a stew-
pan, with the gravy and onions, simmer gently until the celery is
tender, when add the beef cut into rather thick pieces ; stew gently
for 10 minutes, and serve with fried potatoes.

Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes to stew the celery.

Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6 d.

Seasonable from September to .1 anuary.

STEWED BEEF WITH OYSTERS (Cold Meat Cookery).

668. Ingredients. — A few thick steaks of cold ribs or sirloin of
beef, 2 oz. of butter, 1 onion sliced, pepper and salt to taste, i glass of
port wine, a little flour to thicken, 1 or 2 dozen oysters, rather more
than i pint of water.

Mode. — Cut the steaks rather thick, from cold sirloin or ribs of
beef; brown them lightly in a stewpan, with the butter and a little
water ; add | pint of water, the onion, pepper, and salt, and cover the
stewpan closely, and let it simmer very gently for ^ hour ; then mix
about a teaspoonful of flour Smoothly with a little of the liquor;
add the port wine and oysters, their liquor having been previously
strained and put into the stewpan ; stir till the oysters plump, and
serve. It should not boil after the oysters are added, or they will
harden.

Time. — 4 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, Is. 4 d.

Seasonable from September to April.

STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF.

669. Ingredients.— 7 lbs. of a brisket of beef, vinegar and salt,
6 carrots, 6 turnips, 6 small onions, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 whole
allspice pounded, thickening of butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of
ketchup ; stock, or water.

Mode.— About an hour before dressing it, rub the meat over with
vinegar and salt ; put it into a stewpan, with sufficient stock to cover
it (when this is not at hand, water may be substituted for it), and be
particular that the stewpan is not lhuch larger than the meat. Skim
well, and when it has simmered very gently for 1 hour, put in the
vegetables, and continue simmering till the moat is perfectly tender.
Draw out the bones, dish the meat, and garnish either with tufts of

312

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

cauliflower or braised cabbage cut in quarters. Thicken as much
gravy as required, with a little butter and flour ; add spices and
ketchup in the above proportion, give one boil, pour some of it over
the meat, and the remainder send in a tureen.

Time. — Rather more than 3 hours. Average cost, Id. per lb.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — The remainder of the liquor in which the beef was boiled may be
served as a soup, or it may be sent to table with the meat in a tureen.

STEWED RUMP OE BEEP.

670. Ingredients. — 1 rump of beef, sufficient stock to cover it (No.
105), 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of ketchup, 1 large
bunch of savoury herbs, 2 onions, 12 cloves, pepper and salt to taste,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine.

Mode. — Cut out the bone, sprinkle the meat with a little cayenne
(this must be sparingly used), and bind and tie it firmly up with
tape ; put it into a stewpan with sufficient stock to cover it, and add
vinegar, ketchup, herbs, onions, cloves, and seasoning in the above
proportion, and simmer very gently for 4 or 5 hours, or until the meat
is perfectly tender, which may be ascertained by piercing it with a
thin skewer. When done, remove the tape, lay it into a deep dish,
which keep hot ; strain and skim the gravy, thicken it with butter
and flour, add a glass of port wine and any flavouring to make the
gravy rich and palatable ; let it boil up, pour over the meat, and serve.
This dish may be very much enriched by garnishing with forcemeat
balls, or filling up the space whence the bone is taken with a good
forcemeat ; sliced carrots, turnips, and onions boiled with the meat,
are also a great improvement, and, where expense is not objected to,
it may be glazed. This, however, is not necessary where a good gravy
is poured round and over the meat.

Time. — i rump stewed gently from 4 to 5 hours.

Average cost, 10 d. per lb. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — A stock or gravy in which to boil the meat, may bo made of the bone
and trimmings, by boiling them with water, and adding carrots, onions,
turnips, and a bunch of sweet herbs. To make this dish richer and moro
savoury, half-roast the rump, and afterwards stew it in strong stock and a
little Madeira. This is an expensive method, and is not, after all, much better
than a plain er-dressod joint.

The I! a no x or Beef. — This noble joint, which consisted of two sirloins not cut asunder,
was a favourite dish of our ancestors. It is rarely seen nowadays; indeed, it seems out
of place on a modern table, us it requires the grim boar’s head and Christmas pie as

BEEF.

313

suDDorters Sir Walter Scott has described a feast at which the baron of beef would
have appeared to great advantage. We will quote a few lines to remind us of those
days when “ England was merry England,” and when hospitality was thought to be t

highest virtue. , ,

“ The fire, with well-dried logs supplied,

Went roaring up the chimney wide ;

The huge hail-table's oaken face,

Serubb'd till it shone, the day to grace,

Bore then, upon its massive board,

No mark to part the squire and lord.

Then was brought in the lusty brawn,

By old blue-coated serving-man ;

Then the grim boar’s head frown’d on high.

Crested with bays and rosemary.

Well can the green-garb’ d ranger tell
How, when, and where the monster fell ;

What dogs before his death he tore,

And all the baiting of the boar ;

While round the merry wassel bowl,

Garnish’d with ribbons, blithe did trowl.

There the huge sirloin reek’d ; hard by
Plum-porridge stood, and Christmas pie ;

Nor fail’d, old Scotland to produce,

At such high tide, her savoury goose.”’

When a lord’s son came of age, in the olden time, the baron of beef was too small a
joint, by many degrees, to satisfy the retainers who would flock to the hall ; a whole ox
Was therefore generally roasted over a fire built up of huge logs. We may here mention,
that an ox was roasted entire on the frozen Thames, in the early part of the present
century.

STEWED SHUNT OP BEEP.

671. Ingredients.— A shin of beef, 1 head of celery, 1 onion, a
faggot of savoury herbs, £ teaspoonful of allspice, § teaspoonful of
whole black pepper, 4 carrots, 12 button onions, 2 turnips, thickening
of butter and flour, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 table-
spoonfuls of port wine ; pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Have the bone sawn into 4 or 5 pieces, cover with hot
water, bring it to a boil, and remove any scum that may rise to the
surface. Put in the celery, onion, herbs, spice, and seasoning, and
simmer very gently until the meat is tender. Peel the vegetables,
cut them into any shape fancy may dictate, and boil them with the
onions until tender ; lift out the beef, put it on a dish, which keep
hot, and thicken with butter and flour as much of the liquor as will
be wanted for gravy ; keep stirring till it boils, then strain and skim.
Put the gravy back in the stewpan, add the seasoning, port wine, and
ketchup, give one boil, and pour it over the beef ; garnish with the
boiled carrots, turnips, and onions.

'Time. — The meat to be stewed about 4 hours. Average cost, 4(7. per
lb. with bone.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (a Homely but Savoury Dish).

672. Ingredients. — lj lb. of rump-steak, 1 sheep’s kidney, pepper

314

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and salt to taste. For the batter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 4 table-
spoonfuls of flour, •* saltspoonful of salt.

Mode. Cut up the steak and kidney into convenient-sized pieces,
and put them into a pie-dish, with a good seasoning of salt and pepper ;
mix the flour with a small quantity of milk at first, to prevent its
being lumpy ; add the remainder, and the 3 eggs, which should be
well beaten ; put in the salt, stir the batter for about 5 minutes, and
pour it over the steak. Place it in a tolerably brisk oven immediately,
and bake for ll hour.

Time. — 1^ hour. Average cost, Is. 9 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

N ote. — The remains of cold beef, rather underdone, may be substituted for
the steak, and, when liked, the smallest possible quantity of minced onion or
shalot may be added.

BOILED TONGUE.

673. Ingredients. — 1 tongue, a bunch of savoury herbs, water.

Mode. — In choosing a tongue, ascertain how long it has been dried

or pickled, and select one with a smooth skin, which denotes its being
young and tender. If a dried one, and rather hard, soak it at least
for 12 hours previous to cooking it ; if, however, it is fresh from the
' pickle, 2 or 3 hours will be sufficient for it to remain in soak. Put
the tongue into a stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch
of savoury herbs ; let it gradually come to a boil, skim well, and sim-
mer very gently until tender. Peel off the skin, garnish with tufts
of cauliflowers or Brussels sprouts, and serve. Boiled tongue is
frequently sent to table with boiled poultry, instead of ham, and
is, by many persons, preferred. If to serve cold, peel it, fasten it
down to a piece of board by sticking a fork through the root, and
another through the top, to straighten it. When cold, glaze it,
and put a paper ruche1 round the root, and garnish with tufts of
parsley.

Time. — A large smoked tongue, 4 to 4 4 hours; a small one, 2$ to
3 hours. A large unsmoked tongue, 3 to 3§ hours ; a small one, 2 to
2| hours.

Average cost, for a moderate-sized tongue, 3s. 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

TO CUBE TONGUES.

674. Ingredients. — For a tongue of 7 lbs., 1 oz. of saltpetre, £ oz.
of black pepper, 4 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of juniper berries, 6 oz. of salt.

BEEF.

315

Mode , — Rub the above ingredients well into the tongue, and let it
remain in the pickle for 10 days or a fortnight ; then drain it, tie it
up in brown paper, and have it smoked for about 20 days over a
wood fire ; or it may be boiled out of this pickle.

Time. — From 10 to 14 days to remain in the pickle ; to be smoked
24 days.

Average cost, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — If not wanted immediately, the tongue will keep 3 or 4 weeks
without being too salt ; then it must not be rubbed, but only turned in the
pickle.

II.

675. Ixgeeeients. — 9 lbs. of salt, 8 oz. of sugar, 9 oz. of powdered
saltpetre.

Mode. — Rub the above ingredients well into the tongues, and keep
them in this curing mixture for 2 months, turning them every day.
Drain them from the pickle, cover with brown paper, and have them
smoked for about 3 weeks.

Time— The tongues to remain in pickle 2 months ; to be smoked
3 weeks.

Sufficient. — The above quantity of brine sufficient for 12 tongues,
of 5 lbs. each.

Seasonable at any time.

The Tongues op Aximals. — The tongue, whether in the ox or in man, is the seat
of the sense of taste. This sense warns the
animal against swallowing deleterious sub-
stances. Dr. Carpenter says, that, among the
lower animals, the instinctive perceptions con-
nected with this sense, are much more remark-
able than our own ; thus, an omnivorous monkey
will seldom touch fruits of a poisonous character,
although £heir taste may be agreeable. How-
ever this may be, man’s instinct has decided beef tongue.

that ox-tobgue is better than horse-tongue ;

nevertheless, the latter is frequently substituted by dishonest dealers for the former.
The horse’s tongue may bo readily distinguished by a spoon-like expansion at its end.

TO PICKLE AND DBESS A TONGUE TO EAT COLD.

676. Ingeedients.— 6 oz. of salt, 2 oz. of bay-salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre,
3 oz. of coarse sugar ; cloves, mace, and allspice to taste ; butter,
common crust of flour and water.

Mode. — Lay the tongue for a fortnight in the above pickle, turn
it every day, and be particular that the spices are well pounded ; put
it into a small pan just large enough to hold it, place some pieces of
butter on it, and cover with a common crust. Bake in a slow oven

316

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

until so tender that a straw would penetrate it ; take off the skin,
fasten it down to a piece of board by running a fork through the root
and another through the tip, at the same time straightening it and
putting it into shape. When cold, glaze it, put a paper ruche round
the root, which is generally very unsightly, and garnish with tufts of
parsley.

Time. — From 3 or 4 hours in a slow oven, according to size.

Average cost, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 2s. 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

TO DRESS TRIPE.

677. Ingredients. — Tripe, onion sauce, No. 484, milk and water.

Mode. — Ascertain that the tripe is quite fresh, and have it cleaned
and dressed. Cut away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal propor-
tions of milk and water for £ hour. Should the tripe be entirely
undressed, more than double that time should be allowed for it. Have
ready some onion sauce made by recipe No. 484, dish the tripe, smother
it with the sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen.

Time. — f hour : for undressed tripe, from 2 A to 3 hours.

Average cost, Id. per lb.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Tripe may be dressed in a variety of ways : it may be cut in pieces
and fried in batter, stewed in gravy with mushrooms, or cut into collops,
sprinkled with minced onion and savoury herbs, aud fried a nice brown in
clarified butter.

BEEF CARVING.

AITCHBONE OF BEEF.

A boiled aitch-bone of beef is not a difficult joint to carve, as

will be seen on reference to the accom-
panying engraving. By following with
the knife the direction of the line 'from
1 to 2, nice slices will be easily cut.
It may be necessary, as in a round
of beef, to cut a thick slice off the out-
side before commencing to serve.

BEEF CARVING.

317

BRISKET OE BEEF.

There is but little description necessar
of a boiled brisket of beef, beyond the
engraving here inserted. The only
point to be observed is, that the joint
should be cut evenly and firmly quite
across the bones, so that, on its re-
appearance at table, it should not have a

y to add, to show the carving

jagged and untidy look.

BIBS OF BEEF.

This dish resembles the sirloin, except that it has no fillet or under-
cut. As explained in the recipes, the end piece is often cut off,
salted and boiled. The mode of carving
is similar to that of the sirloin, viz., in the
direction of the dotted line from 1 to 2.

This joint will be the more easily cut if
the plan be pursued which is suggested in
carving the sirloin ; namely, the inserting of the knife immediately
between the bone and the meat, before commencing to cut it into slices.
All joints of roast beef should be cut in even and thin slices. Horse-
radish, finely scraped, may be served as a garnish ; but horseradish
sauce is preferable for eating with the beef.

SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

This dish is served differently at various tables, some preferring it
to come to table with the fillet, or, as it is usually called, the undercut,
uppermost. The reverse way, as shown in the cut, is that most usually
adopted. Still the undercut is best eaten
when hot ; consequently, the carver him-
self may raise the joint, and cut some
slices from the under side, in the direction
of from 1 to 2, as the fillet is very much
preferred by some eaters. The upper part
of the sirloin should be cut in the direction
of the line from 5 to 6, and care should be
taken to carve it evenly and in thin slices,
assistance, in carving this joint well, if the knife be first inserted just
above the bone at the bottom, and run sharply along between the bone
and meat, and also to divide the meat from the bone in the same way
at the side of the joint. The slices will then come away more readily.

318

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Some carvers cut the tipper side of the sirloin across, as shown by the
line from 3 to 4 ; but this is a wasteful plan, and one not to be recom-
mended. With the sirloin, very finely-scraped horseradish is usually
served, and a little given, when liked, to each guest. Horseradish
sauce is preferable, however, for serving on the plate, although the
scraped horseradish may still be used as a garnish.

A ROUND OF BEEF.

A round of beef is not so easily carved as many other joints of beef,

and to manage it properly, a thin-bladed
and very sharp knife is necessary. Off
the outside of the joint, at its top, a thick
slice should first be cut, so as to leave the
surface smooth ; then thin and even slices
should be cleverly carved in the direction
of the line 1 to 2 ; and with each slice of the lean a delicate morsel
of the fat should be served.

BEEF TONGUE.

Passing the knife down in the direction of from 1 to 2, a not too thin

slice should be helped ; and the carving
of a tongue may be continued in this way
until the best portions of the upper side
are served. The fat which lies about the
root of the tongue can be served by
turning the tongue, and cutting in the direction of from 3 to 4.

CHAPTER XIV,

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE SHEEP AND LAMB.

678. Of all Wild ob. Domesticated Animals, the sheep is, without excep-
tion, the most useful to man as a food, and the most necessary to his health
and comfort ; for it not only supplies him with the lightest and most nutri-
tious ot meats, but, in the absence of the cow, its udder yields him milk,
cream, and a sound though inferior cheese ; while from its fat he obtains
light, and from its fleece broadcloth, kerseymere, blankets, gloves, and hose.
Its bones when burnt make an animal charcoal — ivory black — to polish his
boots, and when powdered, a manure for the cultivation of his wheat ; the
skin, either split or whole, is made into a mat for his carriage, a housing for
his horse, or a lining for his hat, and many other usoful purposes besides,
being extensively employed in the manufacture of parchment ; and finally,
when oppressed by care and sorrow, tho harmonious strains that carry such
soothing contentment to the heart, are elicited from tho musical strings, pre-
pared almost exclusively from the intestines of the sheep.

679. This Valuable Animal, of which England is estimated to maintain
an average stock of 32,000,000, belongs to tho class already indicated under
the ox, — tho Mammalia ; to the order of Rumenanlia, or cud-chewing animal ;
to the tribe of Caprida, or horned quadrupeds; and tho genus Ovis, or the

320

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

“ sheep.” The sheep may be either with or without horns ; when present,
however, they have always this peculiarity, that they spring from a triangular
base, are spiral in form, and lateral, at the side of the head, in situation. The
fleece of the sheep is of two sorts, either short and harsh, or soft and woolly ;
the wool always preponderating in an exact ratio to the care, attention, and
amount of domestication bestowed on the animal. The generic peculiarities
of the sheep are the triangular and spiral form of the horns, always larger in
the male when present, but absent in the most cultivated species ; having
sinuses at the base of all the toes of the four feet, with two rudimentary
hoofs on the fore legs, two inguinal teats to the udder, with a short tail in
the wild breed, but of varying length in the domesticated ; have no incisor
teeth in the upper jaw, but in their place a hard elastic cushion along the
margin of the gum, on which the animal nips and breaks the herbage on
which it feeds ; in the lower jaw there are eight incisor teeth and six molars on
each side of both jaws, making in all 32 teeth. The fleece consists of two
coats, one to keep the animal warm, the other to carry off the water without
wetting the skin. The first is of wool, the weight and fineness of which
depend on the quality of the pasture and the care bestowed on the flock ;
the other of hair, that pierces the wool and overlaps it, and is in excess in
exact proportion to the badness of the keep and inattention with which the
animal is treated.

680. The great Object of the Grazier is to procure an animal "that
will yield the greatest pecuniar}' return in the shortest time ; or, in other
words, soonest convert grass and turnips into good mutton and fine fleece.
All sheep will not do this alike ; some, like men, are so restless and irritable,
that no system of feeding, howevor good, will develop tlioir frames or make
them fat. The system adopted by the breeder to obtain a valuable animal
for the butcher, is to enlarge the capacity and functions of the digestive
organs, and reduce those of the head and chest, or the mental and respiratory
organs. In the first place, the mind should be tranquillized, ’and those spaces
that can never produce animal fibre curtailed, and greater room afforded, as
in the abdomen, for those that can. And as nothing militates against the
fattening process so much as restlessness, the chief wish of the grazier is to
find a dull, indolent sheep, one who, instead of frisking himself, leaping his
wattles, or even condescending to notice the butting gambols of his silly
companions, silently fills his paunch with pasture, and then seeking a shady
nook, indolently and luxuriously chews his cud with closed eyes and blissful
satisfaction, only rising when his delicious repast is ended, to proceed
silently and without emotion to repeat the pleasing process of laying in more
provender, and thon returning to his dreamy siesta to renew the delightful
task of rumination. Such animals are snid to have a lymphatic temperament,
and are of so kindly a naturo, that on good pasturage they may be said to
grow daily. The Leicestershire breed is the best example of this lymphatic
and contented animal, and the active Orkney, who is half goat in his habits,
of tlio restless and unprofitable. The rich pasture of our midland counties

THE SHEEP.

321

■would take years in making the wiry Orkney fat and profitable, while one
day’s fatigue in climbing rocks after a coarse and scanty herbage would pro-
bably cause the actual death of the pampered and short-winded Leicester.

6Si. The more removed from the Nature of the animal is the food on
which it lives, the more difficult is the process of assimilation, and the more
complex the chain of digestive organs ; for it must be evident to all, that the
same apparatus that converts flesh int o flesh, is hardly calculated to transmute
grass into flesh. As the process of digestion in carnivorous animals is ex-
tremely simple, these organs are found to be remarkably short, seldom ex-
ceeding the length of the animal’s body; while, where digestion is more
difficult, from the unassimilating nature of the aliment, as in the ruminant
order, the alimentary canal, as is the case with the sheep, is twenty-seven
times the length of the body. The digestive organ in all ruminant animals
consists of four stomachs, or, rather, a capacious pouch, divided by doorways
and valves into four compartments, called, in their order of position, the
Paunch, the Reticulum, the Omasum, and the Abomasum. When the sheep
nibbles the grass, and is ignorantly supposed to be eating, he is, in fact, only
preparing the raw material of his meal, in reality only mowing the pasture,
which, as he collects, is swallowed instantly, passing into the first receptacle,
the paunch, where it is surrounded by a quantity of warm saliva, in which
the herbage undergoes a process of maceration or softening, till the animal
having filled this compartment, the contents pass through a valve into the
second or smaller bag, — the reticulum, where, having again filled the paunch
with a reserve, the sheep lies down and commences that singular process of
chewing the cud, or, in other words, masticating the food he has collected.
By the operation of a certain set of muscles, a small quantity of this softened
food from the reticulum, or second bag, is passed into the mouth, which it now
becomes the pleasure of the sheep to grind under his molar teeth into a soft
smooth pulp, the operation being further assisted by a flow of saliva, answering
the double purpose of increasing the flavour of the aliment and promoting
the solvency of the mass. Having completely comminuted and blended this
mouthful, it is swallowed a second time ; but instead of returning to the
paunch or reticulum, it passes through another valve into a side cavity, — the
omasum, where, after a maceration in more saliva for some hours, it glides by
the same contrivance into the fourth pouch, — the abomasum, an apartment in
all respects analogous to the ordinary stomach of animals, and where the
process of digestion, begun and carried on in the previous three, is here con-
summated, and the nutrient principle, by means of the bile, eliminated from
the digestied aliment. Such is the process of digestion in sheep and oxen.

682. No other Animal, even of the same order, possesses in so remarkable
a degree the power of converting pasture into flesh as the Leicestershire
sheep ; the South Down and Cheviot, the two next breeds in quality, are, in
consequence of the greater vivacity of the animal’s nature, not equal to it in
that respect, though in both the brain and chest are kept subservient to the

322

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

greater capacity of tlio organs of digestion. Besides the advantage of increased
bulk and finer fleeces, the breeder seeks to obtain an augmented deposit of
tissue in those parts of the carcase most esteemed as food, or, what are called
in the trade “ prime joints and so far has this been effected, that the com-
parative weight of the hind quarters over the fore has become a test of quality
in the breed, the butchers in some markets charging twopence a pound more
for that portion of the sheep. Indeed, so superior are the hind quarters of
mutton now regarded, that very many of the West-end butchers never deal in
any other part of the sheep.

683. The Difference in the Quality of the Flesh in various breeds is a
well-established fact, not alone in flavour, but also in tenderness ; and that the
nature of the pasture on which the sheep is fed influences the flavour of the
meat, is equally certain, and shown in the estimation in which those flocks
are held which have grazed on the thymy heath of Bamstead in Sussex. It is
also a well-established truth, that the larger the frame of the animal, the
coarser is the meat, and that small hones are both guarantees for the fineness
of the breed and the delicacy of the flesh. The sex too has much to do in
determining the quality of the meat ; in the males, the lean is closer in fibre,
deeper in colour, harder in texture, less juicy, and freer from fat, than in the
female, and is consequently tougher and more difficult of digestion ; but
probably age, and the character of the pasturage on which they are reared,
has, more than any other cause, an influence on the quality and tenderness of
the meat.

684. The numerous Varieties of sheep inhabiting the different regions of
the earth have been reduced by Cuvier to three, or at most four, species : the
Ovis Ammon, or the Argali, the presumed parent stock of all the rest ; the
Ovis TragelaphuS, the bearded sheep of Africa ; the Ovis Musmon, the Mus-
mon of Southern Europe ; and the Ovis montana, the Moufion of America :
though it is believed by many naturalists that this last is so nearly identical
with the Indian Argali as to be undeserving a separate place. It is still a
controversy to which of these three we are indebted for the many breeds of
modern domestication ; the Argali, however, by general belief, has been con-
sidered as the most probable progenitor of the present varieties.

685. The Effects produced by Change of Climate, accident, and other
causes, must have been great to accomplish so complete a physical alteration
as the primitive Argali must have undergone before the Musmon, or Mouflon
of Corsica, the immediate progenitor of all our European breeds, assumed his
present appearance. The Argali is about a fifth larger in size than the ordi-
nary English sheep, and being a native of a tropical clime, his flooco is of hail
instead of wool, and of a warm reddish brown, approaching to yellow ; a
thick mane of darker hair, about seven inches long, commences from two long
tufts at the angle of tho jaws, and, running under the throat and neck,
descends down the chest, dividing, at tlio fore fork, into two parts, one running

THE SHEEP.

328

down the front of each leg, as low as the shank. The horns, unlike the
character of the order generally, have a quadrangular base, and, sweeping
inwards, terminate in a sharp point. The tail, about seven inches long, ends
in a tuft of stiff hairs. From this remarkable muffler-looking beard, the French
have given the species the name of Mouflon cl manchetles. From the primitive
stock eleven varieties have been reared in this country, of the domesticated
sheep, each supposed by their advocates to possess some one or more special
qualities. These eleven, embracing the Shetland or Orkney ; the Dun-woolled ;
Black-faced, or heath-bred ; the Moorland, of Devonshire ; the Cheviot ; the
Horned, of Norfolk ; the Byeland • South-Down ; the Merino ; the Old Leicester,
and the Teeswater, or New Leicester, have of late years been epitomized ; and,
or all useful and practical purposes, reduced to the following four orders : —

686. The South Down, the Leicester, the Black-faced, and the
Cheviot.

687. South Downs. — It appears, as far as our investigation can trace the
feet, that from the very earliest epoch of agricultural history in England,
the breezy range of light chalky hills running through the south-west and

SOUTH-DOWN BAM.

south of Sussex and Hampshire, and known as the South Downs, has been
famous for a superior race of sheep ; and we find the Romans early estab-
lished mills and a cloth-factory at Winchester, where they may be said to
terminate, which rose to such estimation, from the fineness of the wool and
texture of the cloth, that the produce was kept as only worthy to clothe'
emperors. From this, it may be inferred that sheep have always been indi-
genous to this hilly tract. Though boasting so remote a reputation, it is
comparatively within late years that the improvement and present state of
perfection of this breed has been effected, the South-Down now ranking, for
symmetry of shape, constitution, and early maturity, with any stock in' the
kingdom. Tho South-Down has no horns, is covered with a fine wool from

y 2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

224

two to three inches long, has a small head, and legs and face of a grey colour.
It is, however, considered deficient in depth and breadth of chest. A marked

SOUTH-DOWN EWE.

peculiarity of this breed is that its hind quarters stand higher than the fore,
the quarters weighing from fifteen to eighteen pounds.

6S8. The Leicester.— It was not till the year 1755 that Mr. Kobert
Bakewell directed his attention to the improvement of his stock of sheep, and

LEICESTER RAM.

ultimately effected that change in the character of his flock which has brought
the breed to hold so prominent a place. The Leicester is regarded as the
largest example of the improved breeds, very productive, and yielding a good
fleece. He has a small head, covered with short white hairs, a clean muzzle,
an open countenance, full eye, long thin ear, tapering neck, woll-arched ribs,
and straight back. The meat is indifferent, its flavour not being so good as
that of the South-Down, and there is a very large proportion of fat. Average
weight of carcase from 90 to 100 lbs.

THE SHEEP.

325

689. Black-faced, or Heath-bred Sheep.— This is the most hardy of
all our native breeds, and originally came from Ettrick Forest. The face and
legs are black, or sometimes mottled, the horns spiral, and on the top of the

forehead it has a small round tuft of lighter-coloured wool than on the face ;
has the muzzle and lips of the same light hue, and what shepherds call a

mealy mouth ; the eye is full of vivacity and fire, and well open ; the body
long, round, and firm, and the limbs robust. The wool is thin, coarse, and
light. Weight of the quarter, from 10 to 16 lbs.

690. The Cheviot.— From the earliest traditions, these hills in the North,
like the chalk-ridges in the South, have possessed a race of large-carcased
sheep, producing a valuable fleece. To these physical advantages, they added
a sound constitution, remarkable vigour, and capability to endure great priva-

326

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERS’.

tion. Both sexes are destitute of horns, face white, legs long and clean, carries
the head erect, has the throat and neck well covered, the ears long and open,
and the face animated. The Cheviot is a small-boned sheep, and well covered

HEATH EWE.

with wool to the hough ; the only defect in this breed, is in a want of depth in
the chest. W eight of the quarter, from 12 to 18 lbs.

691. Though the Romney Marshes, that wide tract of morass and low-
land moor extending from the Weald (or ancient forest) of Kent into Sussex,
has rather been regarded as a general feeding-ground for any kind of sheep
to he pastured on, it has yet, from the earliest date, been famous for a breed

BOMNEY-JIABSH BAM.

of animals almost peculiar to the locality, and especially for size, length,
thickness, and quantity of wool, and what is called thickness of stocking ; and
on this account for ages held pre-eminence over every other breed in the
kingdom. So satisfied woro tho Kontisk men with the superiority of their

THE SHEEP.

327

sheep, that they long resisted any crossing in the breed. At length, however,
this was effected, and from the Old Bomney and New Leicester a stock was
produced that proved, in an eminent degree, the advantage of the cross ; and
though the breed was actually smaller than the original, it was found that the

ROMNEY -MARSH EWE.

new stock did not consume so much food, the stocking was increased, they
were ready for the market a year sooner ; that the fat formed more on the
exterior of the carcase, where it was of most advantage to the grazier, rather
than as formerly in the interior, where it went to the butcher as offal ; and
though the wool was shorter and lighter, it was of a better colour, finer,
and possessed of superior felting properties.

692. The Bomney Marsh Breed is a large animal, deep, close, and com-
pact, with white face and legs, and yields a heavy fleece of a good staple
quality. The general structure is, however, considered defective, the chest
being narrow and the extremities coarse ; nevertheless its tendency to fatten,
and its early maturity, are universally admitted. The Bomney Marsh, there-
fore, though not ranking as a first class in respect of perfection and symmetry
of breed, is a highly useful, profitable, and generally advantageous variety of
the English domestic sheep.

693. Different Names have been given to sheep by their breeders,
according to their age and sex. The male is called a ram, or tup ; after
weaning, he is said to be a hog, or hogget, or a lamb-hog, tup-hog, or teg ;
later he is a wether, or wether-hog ; after the first shearing, a shearing, or
dinmont ; and after each succeeding shearing, a two, three, or four-shear
ram, tup, or wether, according to circumstances. The female is called a ewe,
or gimmer-lamb, till weaned, when she becomes, according to the shepherd’s
nomenclature, a gimmer-ewe, hog, or teg ; after shearing, a gimmer or shear-
mg-ewo, or theave ; and in future a two, three, or four-shear ewe, or theave.

328

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

694. The Mode op Slaughtering Sheep is perhaps as humane and expe-
ditious a process as could be adopted to attain tho objects sought : the animal
being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, while pressing
the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle of the jaw, passing
his knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck ; thus dividing the
jugulars, carotids, and large vessels, the death being very rapid from such a
hemorrhage.

695. Almost every Large City has a particular manner of cutting up, or,
as it is called, dressing the carcase. In London this process is very simple,
and as our butchers have found that much skewering back, doubling one part
over another, or scoring the inner cuticle or fell, tends to spoil the meat and
shorten the time it would otherwise keep, they avoid all such treatment
entirely. The carcase when flayed (which operation is performed while yet
warm), the sheep when hung up and the head removed, presents the profile
shown in our cut ; the small numerals indicating the parts or joints into

which one half of the animal is cut. After
separating the hind from the fore quarters, with
eleven ribs to the latter, the quarters are
usually subdivided in the manner shown in the
sketch, in which the several joins are defined by
the intervening lines and figures. Hind quarter :
No. 1, the leg; 2, the loin — the two, when cut
in one piece, being called the saddle, j Fore
quarter : No. 3, the shoulder ; 4 and 5 the neck ;
No. 5 being called, for distinction, the scrag,
which is generally afterwards separated from 4,
the lower and better joint ; No. 6, the breast.
The haunch of mutton, so often served at public
dinners and special entertainments, comprises
all the leg and so much of the loin, short of the
ribs or lap, as is indicated on the upper part of
the carcase by a dotted line.

696. The Gentle and Timid ■ Disposition
of the sheep, and its defenceless condition, must
very early have attached it to man for motives
less selfish than either its fleece or its flesh ; for
it has been proved beyond a doubt that, obtuse
as wo generally regard it, it is susceptible of a
high degree of domesticity, obedience, and affec-
tion. In many parts of Europe, where the flocks
are guided by the shephord’s voico alone, it is no unusual thing for a sheep to
quit the herd when called by its name, and follow the keeper like a dog. In
tho mountains of Scotland, when a flock is invaded by a savage dog, the rams
havo been known to form the herd into a circle, and placing themselves on tho

SIDE OP MUTTON, SHOWING
THE SEVERAL JOINTS.

THE LAMB.

329

outside line, keep the enemy at bay, or charging on him in a troop, have
despatched him with their horns.

697. The Value of the Sheep seems to have been early understood by Adam
in his fallen state ; his skin not only affording him protection for his body, but
a covering for his tent ; and accordingly, we find Abel intrusted with this por-
tion of his father’s stock ; for the Bible tells us that “Abel was a keeper of
sheep.” What other animals were domesticated at that time we can only
conjecture, or at what exact period the flesh of the sheep was first eaten for
food by man, is equally, if not uncertain, open to controversy. For though
some authorities maintain the contrary, it is but natural to suppose that when
Abel brought firstlings of his flock, “and the fat thereof,” as a sacrifice, the
less dainty portions, not being oblations, were hardly likely to have been
flung away as refuse. Indeed, without supposing Adam and his descendants
to have eaten animal food, we cannot reconcile the fact of Jubal Cain, Cain’s
son, and his family, living in tents, as they are reported to have done, know-
ing that both their own garments and the coverings of the tents, were made
from the hides and skins of the animals they bred ; for the number of sheep
and oxen slain for oblations only, would not have supplied sufficient material
for two such necessary purposes. The opposite opinion is, that animal food
was not eaten till after the Flood, when the Lord renewed his covenant with
Noah. From Scriptural authority we learn many interesting facts as regards
the sheep : the first, that mutton fat was considered the most delicious portion
of any meat, and the tail and adjacent part the most exquisite morsel in the
whole body ; consequently, such were regarded as especially fit for the offer of
sacrifice. From this fact we may reasonably infer that the animal still so
often met with in Palestine and Syria, and known as the Fat-tailed sheep, was
in use in the days of the patriarchs, though probably not then of the size and
weight it now attains to ; a supposition that gains greater strength, when it
is remembered that the ram Abraham found in the bush, when he went to
offer up Isaac, was a horned animal, being entangled in the brake by his curved
horns ; so far proving that it belonged to the tribe of the Capridse, the fat-
tailed sheep appertaining to the same family.

LAMBS.

698. Though the Lambing Season in this Country usually commences in
March, under the artificial system, so much pursued now to please the appe-
tite of luxury, lambs can be procured at all seasons. When, however, the
sheep lambs in mid-winter, or the inclemency of the weather would endangex-
the lives of mother and young, if exposed to its influence, it is customary to
rear the lambs within-doors, and under tho shelter of stables or bams, where,
foddered on soft hay, and part fed on cow’s milk, the little creatures thrive
rapidly : to such it is customary to give the name of House Lamb, to distin-
guish it from that reared in tho open air, or grass-fed. The ewe goes five

330

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

months with her young, about 152 days, or close on 22 weeks. The weaning
season commences on poor lands, about the end of the third month, but on
rich pasture not till the close of the fourth — sometimes longer.

699. From the large Proportion of Moisture or Fluids contained in
the tissues of all young animals, the flesh of lamb and veal is much more prone,
in close, damp weather, to become tainted and spoil than the flesh of the more
mature, drier, and closer-textured beef and mutton. Among epicures, the
most delicious sorts of lamb are those of the South-Down breed, known by
their black feet ; and of these, those which have been exclusively suckled on
the milk of the parent ewe, are considered the finest. Next to these in
estimation are those fed on the milk of several dams, and last of all,
though the fattest, the grass-fed lamb ; this, how-
ever, implies an age much greater than either of the
others.

700. Lamb, in the early part of the season, how-
ever reared, is in London, and indeed generally, sold
in quarters, divided with eleven ribs to the fore-
quarter ; but, as the season advances, these are sub-
divided into two, and the hind-quarter in the same
manner ; the first consisting of the shoulder, and
the neck and breast ; the latter, of the leg and the
loin, — as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton.
As lamb, from the juicy nature of its flesh, is esp e-
cially liable to spoil in unfavourable weather, it
should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any
moisture that may form on it.

701. In the Purchasing of Lamb for the
Table, there are certain signs by which the expe-
rienced judgment is able to form an accurate opinion
whether the animal has been lately slaughtered,
and whether the joints possess that condition of
fibre indicative of good and wholesome meat. The
first of these doubts may be solved satisfactorily

by the bright and dilated appoarance of the eye ; the quality of the fore-
quarter can always be guaranteed by the blue or healthy ruddiness of the
jugular, or vein of the neck ; while the rigidity of the knuckle, and the firm,
compact feel of the kidney, will answer in an equally positive manner for the
integrity of the hind-quarter.

702. Mode of cutting up a Side of Lamb in London.— 1, 1. Bibs;
2. Breast; 3. Shoulder; 4. Loin; 5. Leg; 1,2,3. Fore Quarter.

MODERN MODE OE SERVING DISHES.

RECIPES.

CHAPTER XT.

BAKED MINCED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

703. Ingredients.— The remains of any joint of cold roast mutton,
1 or 2 onions, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 2
blades of pounded mace or nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy, mashed
potatoes.

Mode. — Mince an onion rather fine, and fry it a light-brown colour ;
add the herbs and mutton, both of which should be also finely minced
and well mixed ; season with pepper and salt, and a little pounded mace
or nutmeg, and moisten with the above proportion of gravy. Put a
layer of mashed potatoes at the bottom of a dish, then the mutton,
and then another layer of potatoes, and bake for about \ hour.

Time. — hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 4 d.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — If there should be a large quantity of meat, use 2 onions instead
of 1.

BOILED BREAST OE MUTTON AND CAPER SAUCE.

704. Ingredients. — Breast of mutton, bread crumbs, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of minced savoury herbs (put a large proportion of parsley),
pepper and salt to taste.

Mode.— Cut off the superfluous fat ; bone it ; sprinkle over a layer
of bread crumbs, minced herbs, and seasoning ; roll, and bind it up
firmly. Boil gently for 2 hours, remove the tape, and serve with caper
sauce, No. 382, a little of which should be poured over the meat.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 6d. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable all the year.

BOILED LEG OP MUTTON.

705. Ingredients. — Mutton, water, salt.

Mode.— A. leg of mutton for boiling should not hang too long, as it
will not look a good colour when dressed. Cut off the shank-bone,

332

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

trim the knuckle, and wash and wipe it very clean ; plunge it into
sufficient boiling water to cover it; let it boil up, then draw the
saucepan to the side of the tire, where it should remain till the
finger can be borne in the water. Then place it sufficiently near the
fire, that the water may gently simmer, and be very careful that it
does not boil fast, or the meat will be hard. Skim well, add a little
salt, and in about 2j hours after the water begins to simmer, a
moderate-sized leg of mutton will be done. Serve with carrots and
mashed turnips, which may be boiled with the meat, and send caper
sauce (No. 382) to table with it in a tureen.

Time. — A moderate-sized leg of mutton of 9 lbs., 2j hours after the
water boils ; one of 12 lbs., 3 hours.

Average cost, 8 id. per lb.

Sufficient. — A moderate-sized leg of mutton for 6 or 8 persons.

Seasonable nearly all the year, but not so good in June, July, and
August.

Note. — When meat is liked very thoroughly cooked, allow more time than
stated above. The liquor this joint was boiled in should be converted into
soup.

The Good Shepheed. — The sheep’s complete dependence upon the shepherd for
protection from its numerous enemies is frequently referred to in the Bible ; thus the
Psalmist likens himself to a lost sheep, and prays the Almighty to seek his servant ; and
our Saviour, when despatching his twelve chosen disciples to preach the Gospel amongst
their unbelieving brethren, compares them to lambs going amongst wolves. The
shepherd of the East, by kind treatment, calls forth from his sheep unmistakable signs
of affection. The sheep obey his voice and recognize the names by which he calls them,
and they follow him in and out of the fold. The beautiful figure of the “ good shepherd,”
which so often occurs in the New Testament, expresses the tenderness of the Saviour
for mankind. “ The good shepherd giveth his life for the sheep.” — John, x. 11. “ I am
the good shepherd, and know my sheep, and am known by mine." — John, x. 14. “ And
other sheep I have which are not of this fold : them also I must bring, and they shall
hear my voice : and there shall be one fold and one shepherd.” — John, x. 16.

BOWED LEG OF MUTTON STUFFED.

706. Ingbedients. — A small leg of mutton, weighing 6 or 7 lbs.,
forcemeat, No. 417, 2 shalots finely minced.

Mode. — Make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, to which add 2 finely-
minced shalots. Bone the leg of mutton, without spoiling the
skin, and cut oft’ a great deal of the fat. Fill the hole up whence the
bone was taken, with the forcemeat, and sew it up underneath, to
prevent its falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly, and roast it
before a nice clear fire for about 2 5 hours or rather longer ; remove
the tape and send it to table with a good gravy. It may be glazed or
not, as preferred.

Time. — 2£ hours, or rather longer. Average cost, 4s. 8r/.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

MUTTON.

333

BRAISED FILLET OF MUTTON, with. French Beans.

707. Ingredients. — The chump end of a loin of mutton, buttered
paper, French beans, a little glaze, 1 pint of gravy.

Mode. — Roll up the mutton in a piece of buttered paper, roast
it for 2 hours, and do not allow it to acquire the least colour. Have
ready some French beans, boiled, and drained on a sieve ; remove the
paper from the mutton, glaze it ; just heat up the beans in the gravy,
and lay them on the dish with the meat over them. The remainder of
the gravy may be strained, and sent to table in a tureen.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 83 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Various Qualities of Mutton. — Mutton is, undoubtedly, the meat most generally
used in families ; and, both by connoisseurs and medical men, it stands first in favour,
■whether its fine flavour, digestible qualifications, or general wholesomeness, be considered.
Of all mutton, that furnished by the South-Down sheep is the most highly esteemed;
it is also the dearest, on account of its scarcity, and the great demand for it. Therefore,
if the housekeeper is told by the butcher that he has not any in his shop, it should not
occasion disappointment to the purchaser. The London and other markets are chiefly
supplied with sheep called half-breeds, which are a cross between the Down and Lincoln
or Leicester. These half-breeds make a greater weight of mutton than the true South-
Downs, and, for this very desirable qualification, they are preferred by the great sheep-
masters. The legs of this mutton range from 7 to 11 lbs. in weight ; the shoulders,
necks, or loins, about 6 to 9 lbs. ; and if care is taken not to purchase it too fat, it will
be found the most satisfactory and economical mutton that can be bought.

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON.

708. Ingredients. — 1 small leg of mutton, 4 carrots, 3 onions,
1 faggot of savoury herbs, a bunch of parsley, seasoning to taste of
pepper and salt, a few slices of bacon, a few veal trimmings, i pint of
gravy or water.

Mode. — Line the bottom of a braising-pan with a few slices of
bacon, put in the carrots, onions, herbs, parsley, and seasoning, and
over these place the mutton. Cover the whole with a few more slices
of bacon and the veal trimmings, pour in the gravy or water, and stew
very gently for 4 hours. Strain the gravy, reduce it to a glaze over
a sharp fire, glaze the mutton with it, and send it to table, placed on
a dish of white haricot beans boiled tender, or garnished with glazed
onions.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, 5s.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable at any time.

dJu„ .>0b£br ,of, Thr Golden Fleece. — This order of knighthood waa founded by
du*e Burgundy, in 1429, on the day of his marriage with the Princess
inr.1,1 1' ° f ortugal. The number of the members was originally filed at thirty-one,
inn.n ! gi * e-80vcrelgn* 08 the hea<1 anl1 chief of the institution. In 1516, Pope Leo X
consented to increase the number to fifty-two, including tho head. In 1700 the German

334

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERV.

emperor Charles VI. and King Philip of Spain both laid claim to the order. The
former, however, on leaving Spain, which he could not maintain bv force of arms, took
with him, to Vienna, the archives of the order, the inauguration of which he solemnized
there in 1713, with great magnificence ; but Philip V. of Spain declared himself Grand
Master, and formally protested, at the congress of Cambrai (1721), against the pretensions
of the emperor. The dispute, though subsequently settled by the intercession of France,
England, and Holland, was frequently renewed, until the order was tacitly introduced
into both countries, and it now passes by the respective names of the Spanish or Austrian
“ Order of the Golden Fleece,” according to the country where it is issued.

AN EXCELLENT WAY TO COOK A BREAST OE MTJTTON.

709. Ingredients. — Breast of mutton, 2 onions, salt and pepper to
taste, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, green peas.

Mode. — Cut the mutton into pieces about 2 inches square, and let
it he tolerably lean ; put it into a stewpan, with a little fat or butter,
and fry it of a nice brown ; then dredge in a little flour, slice the
onions, and put it with the herbs in the stewpan ; pour in sufficient
water just to cover the meat, and simmer the whole gently until the
mutton is tender. Take out the meat, strain, and skim off all the
fat from the gravy, and put both the meat and gravy back into the
stewpan ; add about a quart of young green peas, and let them boil
gently until done. 2 or 3 slices of bacon added and stewed with the
mutton give additional flavour ; and, to insure the peas being a beau-
tiful green colour, they may be boiled in water separately, and
added to the stew at the moment of serving.

Time. — 2| hours. Average cost, 6 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from June to August.

Names op Animals Saxon, and op thizik Flesh Noeman. — The names of all our
domestic animals are of Saxon origin ; but it is curious to observe that Norman names
have been given to the different sorts of flesh which these animals yield. How beauti-
fully this illustrates the relative position of Saxon and Norman after the Conquest. The
Saxon hind had the charge of tending and feeding the domestic animals, but only that
they might appear on tne table of his Norman lord. Thus ‘ox,’ ‘steer,’ ‘cow,’ are
Saxon, but ‘beef’ is Norman; ‘calf’ is Saxon, but ‘veal’ Normau ; ‘sheep is
Saxon, but ‘mutton’ Norman; so it is severally with ‘deer’ and ‘venison,
‘swine* and ‘pork,’ ‘fowl’ aud ‘pullet.’ ‘Bacon,’ the only flesh which, perhaps,
ever came within his reach, is the single exception.

BROILED MUTTON AND TOMATO SAUCE
(Cold Meat Cookery).

710. Ingredients. — A few slices of cold mutton, tomato sauce,
No. 529.

Mode. — Cut some nice slices from a cold le£ or shoulder of mutton ;
season them with pepper and salt, and broil over a clear fire. Make
some tomato sauce by recipe No. 529, pour it over the mutton, and
serve. This makes an excellent dish, and must be served very hot.

Time. — About 5 minutes to broil the mutton.

MUTTON.

335

Seasonable in September and October, when tomatoes are plentiful
and seasonable.

Shki'hekds and theib Flocks. — The shepherd’s crook is older than either the
husbandman’s plough or the warrior’s sword. We are told that Abel was a keeper of
sheep. Many passages in holy writ enable us to appreciate the pastoral riches of the
first eastern nations ; and we can form an idea of the number of their flocks, when we
read that Jacob gave the children of Hamor a hundred sheep for the price of a field,
and that the king of Israel received a hundred thousand every year from the king of
Moab, his tributary, and a like number of rams covered with their fleece. The tendency
which most sheep have to ramble, renders it necessary for them to be attended by a
shepherd. To keep a flock within bounds is no easy task ; but the watchful shepherd
manages to accomplish it without harassing the sheep. In the Highlands of Scotland,
where the herbage is scanty, the sheep-farm requires to be very large, and to be
watched over by many shepherds. The farms of some of the great Scottish landowners
are of enormous extent. “ How many sheep have you on your estate ?” asked Prince
Esterhazv of the duke of Argyll. “I have not the "most remote idea,” replied the
duke; “ but I know the shepherds number several thousands.”

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS.

711. Ingredients. — Loin of mutton, pepper and salt, a small piece
of butter.

Mode. — Cut the chops from a well-hung tender loin of mutton,
remove a portion of the fat, and trim them into a nice shape ; slightly
beat and level them ; place the gridiron over a bright clear fire, rub
the bars with a little fat, and lay on the chops. Whilst broiling,
frequently turn them, and in about 8 minutes they will be done.
Season with pepper and salt, dish them on a very hot dish, rub
a small piece of butter on each chop, and serve very hot and
expeditiously.

Time. — About 8 minutes. Average cost, 10 d. per lb.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 chop to each person.

Seasonable at any time.

CHINA CHILO.

712. Ingredients. — lb. of leg, loin, or neck of mutton, 2 onions,
2 lettuces, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of
pepper, \ pint of water, \ lb. of clarified butter ; when liked, a little
cayenne.

Mode. — Mince the above quantity of undressed leg, loin, or neck of
mutton, adding a little of the fat, also minced ; put it into a stewpan
with the remaining ingredients, previously shredding the lettuce and
onion rather fine ; closely cover the stewpan, after the ingredients have
been well stirred, and simmer gently for rather more than 2 hours.
Serve in a dish, with a border of rice round, the same as for
curry.

Time.— Rather more than 2 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from June to August.

336

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

CURRIED MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

713. Ingredients.— The remains of any joint of cold, mutton, 2
onions, | lb. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder, 1 dessert-
spoonful of flour, salt to taste, 4 pint of stock or water.

Mode— Slice the onions in thin rings, and put them into a stewpan
with the butter, and fry of a light brown ; stir in the curry powder,
flour, and salt, and mix all well together. Cut the meat into nice
thin slices (if there is not sufficient to do this, it maybe minced), and
add it to the other ingredients ; when well browned, add the stock or
gravy, and stew gently for about i hour. Serve in a dish with a
border of boiled rice, the same as for other curries.

Time. — § hour. Average cost , exclusive of the meat, 6 d.

Seasonable in winter.

CUTLETS OF COLD MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

714. Ingredients. — The remains of cold loin or neck of mutton,
1 egg, bread crumbs, brown gravy (No. 436), or tomato sauce (No. 529).

Mode. — Cut the remains of cold loin or neck of mutton into cutlets,
trim them, and take away a portion of the fat, should there be too
much ; dip them in beaten egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs, and
fry them a nice brown in hot dripping. Arrange them on a dish, and
pour round them either a good gravy or hot tomato sauce.

Time. — About 7 minutes.

Seasonable.— Tomatoes to be had most reasonably in September and
October.

DORMERS.

715. Ingredients. — h lb. of cold mutton, 2 oz. of beef suet, pepper
and salt to taste, 3 oz. of boiled rice, 1 egg,- bread crumbs, made
gravy.

Mode. — Chop the meat, suet, and rice finely ; mix well together, and
add a high seasoning of pepper and salt, and roll into sausages ; cover
them with egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot dripping of a nice
brown. Serve in a dish with made gravy poured round them, and a
little in a tureen.

Time. — j hour to fry the sausages.

Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

Tin: Golden Fleece. — Tlio ancient fable of the Golden Fleece may be thus briefly
told — Fhryxus, a sou of Athamus, king of Thebes, to escape the persecutions of Ins
stopmother Ino, paid a visit to liis friend Aictes, king of Colchis. A ram, whose fleece
was of pure gold, carried the youth through the air in a most obliging manner to the

MUTTON.

337

court of liis friend. When safe at Colchis, Phryxus offered the ram on the altars of
Mars, and pocketed the fleece. The long received him with great kindness, and gave
him his daughter Chalciope in marriage ; but, some time after, he murdered him in
order to obtain possession of the precious fleece. The murder of Phryxus was amply-
revenged by the Greeks. It gave rise to the famous Argonautic expedition, under-
taken by Jason and fifty of the most celebrated heroes of Greece. The Argonauts
recovered the fleece by the help of the celebrated sorceress Medea, daughter of iEetes,
who fell desperately in love with the gallant but faithless J ason. In the story of the
voyage of the Argo, a substratum of truth probably exists, though overlaid by a mass of
fiction. The ram which carried Phryxus to Colchis is by some supposed to have been
the name of the ship in which he embarked. The fleece of gold is thought to represent
the immense treasures he bore away from Thebes. The alchemists of the fifteenth V
century were firmly convinced that the Golden Fleece was a treatise on the transmuta-
tion of metals, written on sheepskin.

HARICOT MUTTON-.

716. Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of the middle or best end of the neck of
mutton, 3 carrots, 3 turnips, 3 onions, pepper and salt to taste, 1 table-
spoonful of ketchup or Harvey’s sauce.

Mode. — Trim off some of the fat, cut the mutton into rather thin
chops, and put them into a frying-pan with the fat trimmings. Fry
of a pale brown, but do not cook them enough for eating. Cut the
carrots and turnips into dice, and the onions into slices, and slightly
fry them in the same fat that the mutton was browned in, but do not
allow them to take any colour. Now lay the mutton at the bottom of a
stewpan, then the vegetables, and pour over them just sufficient boiling
water to cover the whole. Give one boil, skim well, and then set the
pan on the side of the fire to simmer gently until the meat is tender.
Skim off every particle of fat, add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and
a little ketchup, and serve. This dish is very much better if made the
day before it is wanted for table, as the fat can be so much more easily
removed when the gravy is cold. This should be particularly attended
to, as it is apt to be rather rich and greasy if eaten the same day it is
made. It should be served in rather a deep dish.

Time— 2^ hours to simmer gently. Average cost, for this quantity, 3s.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

\ ,

II.

717. Ingredients.— Breast or scrag of mutton, flour, pepper and
salt to taste, l large onion, 3 cloves, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 blade
of mace, carrots and turnips, sugar.

Mode.— Cut the mutton into square pieces, and fry them a nice
colour ; then dredge over them a little flour and a seasoning of pepper
and salt. ^ Put all into a stewpan, and moisten with boiling water
adding the onion, stuck with 3 cloves, the mace, and herbs. Simmer

338

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

gently till the meat is nearly done, skim oft’ all the fat, and then add
the carrots and turnips, which should previously be cut in dice and
fried in a little sugar to colour them. Let the whole simmer again for
10 minutes ; take out the onion and hunch of herbs, and serve.

Time. — About 3 hours to simmer. Average cost, 6 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

HARICOT MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

718. Ingredients. — The remains of cold neck or loin of mutton,
2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, i pint of good
gravy, pepper and salt to taste,. 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, 1 table-
spoonful of mushroom ketchup, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery.

Mode. — Cut the cold mutton into moderate-sized chops, and take off
the fat ; slice the onions, and fry them with the chops, in a little butter,
of a nice brown colour ; stir in the flour, add the gravy, and let it
stew gently nearly an hour. In the mean time boil the vegetables
until nearly tender, slice them, and add them to the mutton about
\ hour before it is to be served. Season with pepper and salt, add the
ketchup and port wine, give one boil, and serve.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 9d.

Seasonable at any time.

HASHED MUTTON.

719. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast shoulder or leg of
mutton, 6 whole peppers, 6 whole allspice, a faggot of savoury herbs,
i head of celery, 1 onion, 2 oz. of butter, flour.

Mode. — Cut the meat in nice even slices from the bones, trimming
off all superfluous fat and gristle chop the bones and fragments of
the joint, put them into a stewpan with the pepper, spice, herbs, and
■ celery ; cover with water, and simmer for 1 hour. Slice and fry the
onion of a nice pale-brown colour, dredge in a little flour to make it
thick, and add this to the bones, &c. Stew for 3 hour, strain the
gravy, and let it cool ; then skim off every particle of fat, and put
it, with the meat, into a stewpan. Flavour with ketchup, Harvey’s
sauce, tomato sauce, or any flavouring that may be preferred, and let
the meat gradually warm through, but not boil, or it will harden. rIo
hash meat properly, it should be laid in cold gravy> and only left on
the fire just long enough to warm through.

'Time. — 1£ hour to simmer the gravy.

Average cost, exclusive of the meat, id.

Seasonable at any time.

MUTTON.

339

Hashed Mutton. — Many persons express a decided aversion to hashed mutton; and,
doubtless, this dislike has arisen from the fact that they have unfortunately never been
properly served with this dish. If properly done, however, the meat tender (it ought to
be as tender as when first roasted), the gravy abundant and well flavoured, and the
sippets nicely toasted, and the whole served neatly; then, hashed mutton is by no means
to be despised, and is infinitely more wholesome and appetizing than the cold leg or
shoulder, of which fathers and husbands, and their bachelor friends, stand in such
natural awe.

HODGE-PODGE (Cold Meat Cookery).

720. Ingredients. — About 1 lb. of underdone cold mutton, 2 let-
tuces, 1 pint of green peas, 5 or 6 green onions, 2 oz. of butter, pepper
and salt to taste, i teaeupful of water.

Mode. — Mince the mutton, and cut up tbe lettuces and onions in
slices. Put these in a stewpan, with all the ingredients except the
peas, and let these simmer very gently for f hour, keeping them well
stirred. Boil the peas separately, mix these with the mutton, and
serve very hot.

Time. — f hour.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from the end of May to August.

IRISH STEW.

721. Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of the loin or neck of mutton, 5 lbs. of
potatoes, 5 large onions, pepper and salt to taste, rather more than
1 pint of water.

Mode. — Trim off some of the fat of the above quantity of loin or
neck of mutton, and cut it into chops of a moderate thickness. Pare
and halve the potatoes, and cut the onions into thick slices. Put a
layer of potatoes at the bottom of a stewpan, then a layer of mutton
and onions, and season with pepper and salt ; proceed in this manner
until the stewpan is full, taking care to have plenty of vegetables at
the top. Pour in the water, and let it stew very gently for 2j hours,
keeping the lid of the stewpan closely shut the whole time, and
occasionally shaking it to prevent its burning.

Time— hours. Average cost, for this quantity, 2s. 8cJ.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — More suitable for a winter dish.

11.

722. Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lbs. of the breast of mutton, 1 J pint of
water, salt and pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of potatoes, 4 large onions.

Mode. Put the mutton into a stewpan with the water and a little
salt, and let it stew gently for an hour ; cut the meat into small

z 2

340 • MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

pieces, skim the fat from the gravy, and pare and slice the potatoes
and onions. Put all the ingredients into the stewpan in layers, first
a layer of vegetables, then one of meat, and sprinkle seasoning of
pepper and salt between each layer ; cover closely, and let the whole
stew very gently for 1 hour or rather more, shaking it frequently to
prevent its burning.

Time. — Rather more than 2 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Suitable for a winter dish.

iV ote. — Irish stew may be prepared in the same manner as above, but baked
in a jar instead of boiled. About 2 hours or rather more in a moderate oven
will be sufficient time to bake it.

ITALIAN MUTTON" CUTLETS.

723. Ingredients. — About 3 lbs. of the neck of mutton, clarified
butter, the yolk of 1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 table-
spoonful of minced savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley,

1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 1 saltspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-
peel ; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste ; flour, 4 pint of hot
broth or water, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce, 1 teaspoonful of soy,

2 teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of port wine.

Mode. — Cut the mutton into nicely-shaped cutlets, flatten them,

and trim off some of the fat, dip them in clarified butter, and then
into the beaten yolk of an egg. Mix well together bread crumbs,
herbs, parsley, shalot, lemon-peel, and seasoning in the above propor-
tion, and cover the cutlets with these ingredients. Melt some butter in
a frying-pan, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a nice brown ; take them
out, and keep them hot before the fire. Dredge some flour into the
pan, and if there is not sufficient butter, add a little more ; stir till
it looks brown, then pour in the hot broth or water, and the remaining
ingredients ; give one boil, and pour round the cutlets. If the gravy
should not be thick enough, add a little more flour. Mushrooms,
when obtainable, are a great improvement to this dish, and when not
in season, mushroom-powder may be substituted for them.

Time— 10 minutes rather longer, should the cutlets be very thick.

Average cost, 2s. 9 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

The Downs. — The well-lcnown substance chalk, which the chemist regards as a nearly
puro carbonate of lime, and the microscopist us an aggregation of inconceivably minute
shells and corals, forms the sub-soil of the hilly districts of the south-east of England. The
chalk-bills known as the South Downs start from the bold promontory of Bcachv Head,
traverse the county of Sussex from east to west, and pass through Hampshire into Surrey.
The North Downs extend from Godaiming, by Godstoue, into Kent, and terminate in the
line of cliffs which stretches from Dover to Ramsgate. The Downs are clothed with short

MUTTON.

341

verdant turf; but the layer of soil which rests upon the chalk is too thin to support trees
and shrubs. The bills have rounded summits, and their smooth, undulated outlines are
unbroken save by the sepulchral monuments of the early inhabitants of the country. The
coombes and furrows, which ramify and extend into deep valleys, appear like dried-up
channels of streams and rivulets. Prom time immemorial, immense flocks of sheep have
been reared on these downs. The herbage of these hills is remarkably nutritious ; and
whilst the natural healthiness of the climate, consequent on the dryness of the air and
the moderate elevation of the land, is eminently favourable to rearing a superior race of
sheep, the arable land in the immediate neighbourhood of the Downs affords the means
of a supply of other food, when the natural produce of the hills fails. The mutton of the
South-Down breed of sheep is highly valued for its delicate flavour, and the wool for its
fineness ; but the best specimens of this breed, when imported from England into the
W est Indies, become miserably lean in the course of a year or two, and their woolly fleece
gives place to a covering of short, crisp, brownish hair.

BROILED KIDNEYS (a Breakfast or Supper Dish,).

724- Ingredients. — Sheep kidneys, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Ascertain that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them open

very evenly, lengthwise, down to the root, for should one half be
thicker than the other, one would be underdone whilst the other-
would be dried, but do not separate them ;
skin them, and pass a skewer under the
white part of each half to keep them flat,
and broil over a nice clear fire, placing
the inside downwards ; turn them when
done enough on one side, and cook them on the other. Remove
the skewers, place the kidneys on a very hot dish, season with
pepper and salt, and put a tiny piece of butter in the middle of each ;
serve very hot and quickly, and send very hot plates to table.

Time. — 6 to 8 minutes. Average cost , 1 \d. each.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 for each person.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. A prettier dish than the above may be made by serving the kidneys
each on a piece of buttered toast cut in any fanciful shape. In this case a
little lemon-juice will be found an improvement.

FRIED KIDNEYS.

725- Ingredients. — Kidneys, butter, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode— Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove

the skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan. When the
butter is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry
them for 7 or 8 minutes, turning them when they are half-done.
Serve on a piece of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a
small piece of butter in each kidney ; pour the gravy from the pan

over them, and serve very hot. «

Time.— 7 or 8 minutes. Average cost, 1 id. each.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 kidney to each person.

Seasonable at any time.

KIDNEYS.

342

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON.

HAUNCH OU MUTTON.

726. Ingredients.— Iiaunch of mutton, a little salt, flour.

Mode. — Let this joint hang as long as possible without becoming
tainted, and while hanging dust flour over it, which keeps off the flies,
and prevents the air from getting to it. If not well hung, the joint,

when it comes to table, will neither do
credit to the butcher or the cook, as it
will not be tender. Wash the outside
well, lest it should have a bad flavour
from keeping ; then flour it and put it
down to a nice brisk fire, at some
distance, so that it may gradually -warm through. Keep continually
basting, and about b hour before it is served, draw it nearer to the
fire to get nicely brown. Sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat,
pour off the dripping, add a little boiling water slightly salted, and
strain this over the joint. Place a paper ruche on the bone, and send
red-currant jelly and gravy in a tureen to table with it.

Time. — About 4 hours. Average cost, 10c?. per lb.

Sufficient for 8 to 10 persons.

Seasonable. — In best season from September to March.

How to Buy Meat Economically. — If I he housekeeper is not very particular as
to the precise joints to cook for dinner, there is oftentimes an opportunity for her to saTe
as much money in her purchases of meat as will pay for the bread to cat with it. It
often occurs, for instance, that the butcher may have a superfluity of certain joints, and
these he would be glad to get rid of at a reduction of sometimes as much as Id. or lid.
per lb., and thus, in a joint of 8 or 9 lbs., will be saved enough to buy 2 quartern loaves.
It frequently happens with many butchers, that, in consequence of a demand for legs and
loins of mutton, they have only shoulders loft, and these they will be glad to sell at a
reduction.

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.

727. Ingredients. — Leg of mutton, a little salt.

Mode. — As mutton, when freshly killed, is never tender, hang it

almost as long as it will keep ; flour
it, and put it in a cool airy place for
a few days, if the weather will permit.
Wash off the flour, wipe it very dry,
and cut oil' the shank-bone ; put it
down to a brisk clear lire, dredge with
flour, and keep continually basting the
whole ti mo it is cooking. About 20 minutes before scr\ing, draw it
near the lire to get nicely brown ; sprinkle over it a little salt, dish
the meat, pour off the dripping, add some boiling water sliglitly salted,
strain it over the joint, and serve.

MUTTON.

343

Time— A. leg of mutton -weighing 10 lbs., about or 21 hours ; one
of 7 lbs., about 2 hours, or rather less.

Average cost, 8 \d. per lb.

Sufficient. — A moderate-sized leg of mutton sufficient for 6 or S
persons.

Seasonable at any time, but not so good in June, July, and August.

ROAST LOIN OP MUTTON.

728. Ingredients. — Loin of mutton, a little salt.

Mode. — Cut and trim off the superfluous i'at, and see that the
butcher joints the meat properly, as
thereby much annoyance is saved to
the carver, -when it comes to table.

Have ready a nice clear fite (it need
not he a very wide large one), put
down the meat, dredge with flour,
and baste well until it is done.

Make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton, and serve very hot.

Time. — A loin of mutton weighing 6 lbs., H hour, or rather
longer.

Average cost, 8 id. per lb. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.'

LOIN 03? MUTTON.

ROLLED LOIN OP MUTTON (Very Excellent).

729. Ingredients. — About 6 lbs. of a loin of mutton, i teaspoonful
of pepper, | teaspoonful of pounded allspice, \ teaspoonful of mace,
l teaspoonful' of nutmeg, 6 cloves, forcemeat Ho. 417, 1 glass of port
wine, 2 tablespoon fuls of mushroom ketchup.

Mode. — Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and sprinkle over it
pepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the above proportion,
all of which must be pounded very fine. Let it remain for a day,
then make a forcemeat by recipe Ho. 417, cover the meat with it, and
roll and bind it up lirmly. Half bake it in a slow oven, let it grow
cold, take off the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan ; flour the
meat, put it in the gravy, and stew it till perfectly tender. How take
out the meat, unbind it, add to the gravy wine and ketchup as above,
give one boil, and pour over the meat. Servo with red-currant jelly ;
and, if obtainable, a few mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the
gravy, will be found a great improvement.

Time. — li hour to hake the meat, 1 k hour to stew gently.

344

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Average cost, 4s. 9d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — This joint will bo found very nice if rolled and stuffed, as here
directed, and plainly roasted. It should be well basted, and served with a
good gravy and currant jelly.

BOILED NECK OP MUTTON.

730. Ingredients. — 4 lbs. of the middle, or best end of the neck of
mutton ; a little salt.

Mode. — Trim off a portion of the fat, should there be too much, and
if it is to look particularly nice, the chine-bone should be sawn down,
the ribs stripped halfway down, and the ends of the bones chopped
off ; this is, however, not necessary. Put the meat into sufficient
boiling water to cover it ; when it boils, add a little salt and remove
all the scum. Draw the saucepan to the' side of the fire, and let the
water get so cool that the finger may be borne in it ; then simmer very
slowly and gently until the meat is done, which will be in about 1 1 hour,
or rather more, reckoning from the time that it begins to simmer.
Serve with turnips and caper sauce, No. 382, and pour a little of it
over the meat. The turnips should be boiled with the mutton ; and,
when at hand, a few carrots will also be found an improvement.
These, however, if very large and thick, must be cut into long
thinnish pieces, or they will not be sufficiently done by the time
the mutton is ready. Garnish the dish with carrots and turnips
placed alternately round the mutton.

Time.— 4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, about li hour.

Average cost, 8%d. per lb.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

The Poets on Sheep. — The keeping of flocks seems to have been the first employment
of mankind ; and the most ancient sort of poetry was probably pastoral. The poem
known as the Pastoral gives a picture of the life of the simple shepherds of the golden
age, who are supposed to have beguiled their time in singing. In all pastorals, repeated
allusions are made to the “ fleecy flocks,” the “milk-white lambs,” and “ the tender
ewes indeed, the sheep occupy a position in these poems inferior only to that of the
shepherds who tend them. The “nibbling sheep” lias ever been a favourite of the
poets, and has supplied them with figures and similes without end. Shaksperc frequently
compares men to sneep. When Gloster rudely drives the lieutenant from the side of
Henry VI., the poor king thus touchingly speaks of his helplessness : —

“ So flics the reckless shepherd from the wolf :

So first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece.

And next his throat, unto the butcher’s knife.”

In the “ Two Gentlemen of Verona,” wo meet with the following humorous com-

^ “ Proteus . The sheep for fodder follow the shopherd, the shepherd for food follows not
the sheep : thou for wages followest thy master, thy master for wages follows not thee ;
therefore, thou art a sheep.

“ Speed. Such another proof will make me cry baa. *

MUTTON.

345

The descriptive poets give us some charming pictures pf sheep. Every one is familiar
with the sheep-shearing scene in Thomson’s “ Seasons : ’

“ Heavy and dripping, to the breezy brow

Slow move the harmless race ; where, as they spread
Their swelling treasures to the sunny ray,

Inly disturb’d, and woud’ring what this wild
Outrageous tumult means, their loud complaints
The country fill ; and, toss’ d from rock to rock.

Incessant bleatings run around the hills.”

What an exquisite idea of stillness is conveyed in the oft-quoted line from Gray s
“Elegy:”—

“ And drowsy t inklings lull the distant fold.”

Prom Dyer’s quaint poem of “ The Fleece ” we could cull a hundred passages relating
to sheep - but we have already exceeded our space. We cannot, however, close tins
brief notice of the allusions that have been made to sheep by our poets, without
quoting a couple of verses from Robert Burns’s “ Elegy on Poor Mailie,” his only
“pet yowe —

“ Thro’ a’ the town she troll’d by him ;

A lang half-mile she could descry him ;

Wi’ kindly bleat, when she did spy him.

She ran wi’ speed;

A friend mail' faitkfu’ ne’er cam’ nigh him
Than Mailie dead.

“ I wat she was a sheep o’ sense,

An’ could behave hersef wi’ mense ;

I’ll say’t, she never brak a fence,

Thro’ thievish greed.

Our bardie, lanely, keeps the speuce.

Sin’ Mailie ’s dead.”

MUTTON COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

731. Ingredients. — A few slices of a cold leg or loin of mutton,
salt and pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 small bunch of
savoury herbs minced very fine, 2 or 3 shalots, 2 or 3 oz. of butter,
1 dessertspoonful of flour, § pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-
juice.

Mode. — Cut some very thin slices from a leg or the chump end of a
loin of mutton ; sprinkle them with pepper, salt, pounded mace, minced
savoury herbs, and minced shalot ; fry them in butter, stir in a dessert-
spoonful of flour, add the gravy and lemon-juice, simmer very gently
about 5 or 7 minutes, and serve immediately.

Time. — 5 to 7 minutes. Average cost', exclusive of the meat, 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

MUTTON CUTLETS WITH MASHED POTATOES.

732- Ingredients. — About 3 lbs. of the best end of tlie neck of
mutton, salt and pepper to taste, mashed potatoes.

Mode. — Procure a well-hung neck of mutton, saw off about 3 inches
of the top of the bones, and cut the cutlets of a moderate thickness.
Shape them by chopping off the thick part of the chine-hone ; beat

346

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

them flat with a cullet-choppcr, and scrape quite clean, a portion

of the top of the hone. Broil them over a
nice clear fire for about 7 cr 8 minutes, and
turn them frequently. Have ready some
smoothly-mashed white potatoes; place
these in the middl" of the dish ; when the
cutlets are done, season with pepper and
salt ; arrange them round the potatoes, with
the thick end of the cutlets downwards, and serve very hot and
quickly. (See Coloured Plate.)

Time— 7 or 8 minutes. Average cost, for this quantity, 2s. id.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Cutlets may be served in various ways ; with peas, tomatoes, onions,
sauce piquante, &c.

MUTTON" PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).

733- Ingredients. — The remains of a cold leg, loin, or neck of
mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 dessert-
spoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs ;
when liked, a little minced onion or shalot; 3 or 4 potatoes, 1 teacupful
of gravy ; crust.

Mode. — Cold mutton may be made into very good pies if well
seasoned and mixed with a few herbs ; if the leg is used, cut it into
very thin slices ; if the loin or neck, into thin cutlets. Place some at
the bottom of the dish ; season well with pepper, salt, mace, parsley,
and herbs ; then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more mutton, and
so on till the dish is full ; add the gravy, cover with a crust, and bake
for 1 hour.

Time.— 1 hour.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — The remains of an underdone leg of mutton may be converted into a
very good family pudding, by cutting tho meat into slices, and putting them
into a basin lined with a suet crust. It should be seasoned well with pepper,
salt, and minced shalot, covered with a crust, and boiled for about 3 hours.

MUTTON PIE.

734. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of the neck or loin of mutton, weighed
after being boned ; 2 kidneys, pepper and salt to taste, 2 teacupfuls of
gravy or water, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley ; when liked, a
little minced onion or shalot ; puff crust.

Mode.— Bone the mutton, and cut tho meat into steaks all of tho

MUTTON CUTLETS.

MUTTON.

347

same thickness, and. leave hut very little fat. Cut up the kidneys, and
arrange these with the meat neatly in a pie-dish ; sprinkle over them
the minced parsley and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour in the
gravy, and cover with a tolerably good puff crust. Bake for lg hour, or
rather longer, should the pie be very large, and let the oven be rather
brisk. A well-made suet crust may be used instead of puff’ crust, and
will be found exceedingly good.

Time. — H hour, or rather longer. Average eos£„ 2s.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

MUTTON PUDDING.

735. Ingredients. — About 2 lbs. of the chump end of the loin of
mutton, weighed after being boned ; pepper and salt to taste, suet
crust made with milk ( see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz. of suet
to each pound of flour ; a very small quantity of minced onion (this
may be omitted when the flavour is not liked).

Mode— Cut the meat into rather thin slices, and season them with
pepper and salt ; line the pudding-dish with crust ; lay in the meat,
and nearly, but do not quite, fill it up with water ; when the flavour
is liked, add a small quantity of minced onion ; cover with crust, and
proceed in the same manner as directed in recipe No. 605, using the
same kind of pudding- dish as there mentioned.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average cost, Is. 9 d.

Sufficient for 6 persqns.

Seasonable all the year, but more suitable in winter.

RAGOUT OP COLD NECK OP MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

736. Ingredients. — The remains of a cold neck or loin of mutton,
2 oz. of butter, a little flour, 2 onions sliced, 1 pint of water, 2 small
carrots, 2 turnips, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Cut the mutton into small chops, and trim off the greater
portion of the fat ; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in a little
flour, add the sliced onions, and keep stirring till brown ; then put in
the meat. When this is quite brown, add the water, and the carrots
and turnips, which should be cut into very thin slices ; season with
pepper and salt, and stew till quite tender, which will be in about
d hour. When in season, green peas may be substituted, for the
carrots and turnips: they should be piled in the centre of the dish, and
the chops laid round.

Time. — $ hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, id.

Seasonable, with peas, from June to August.

348

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ROAST NECK OP MUTTON.

737. Ingredients.— Neck of mutton ; a little salt.

Mode— For roasting, choose the middle, or the best end, of the neck
of mutton, and if there is a very large proportion of fat, trim off some
of it, and save it for making into suet puddings, which will be found

exceedingly good. Let the bones be cut
short, and see that it is properly jointed
before it is laid down to the lire, as they
will he more easily separated when they
come to table. Place the joint at a nice
brisk fire, dredge it with flour, and keep
continually basting until done. A few
minutes before serving, draw it nearer
the fire to acquire a nice colour, sprinkle over it a little salt, pour off
the dripping, add a little boiling water slightly salted ; strain this over
the meat and serve. Red-currant jelly may he sent to table with it.

Time. — 4 lbs. of the neck of mutton, rather more than 1 hour.

Average cost, Sid. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Woollen Manufactures. — The distinction between hair and wool is rather arbitrary
than natural, consisting in the greater or less degrees of fineness, softness, and pliability
of the fibres. When the fibres possess these properties so far as to admit of their being
spun and woven iuto a texture sufficiently pliable to be used as an article of dress, they
are called wool. The sheep, llama, Angora goat, and the goat of Thibet, are the animals
from which most of the wool used in manufactures is obtained. The finest of all wools
is that from the goat of Thibet, of which the Cashmere shawls are made. Of European
wools, the finest is that yielded by the Merino sheep, the Spanish and Saxon breeds
taking the precedence. The Merino sheep, as now naturalized iu Australia, furnishes an
excellent fleece ; but all varieties of sheep-wool, reared either in Europe or Australia,
are inferior in softness of feel to that grown in India, and to that of the llama of the
Andes. The best of our British wools are inferior in fineness to any of the above-
mentioned, being nearly twelve times the thickness of the finest Spanish merino; but,
for the ordinary purposes of the manufacturer, they are unrivalled.

NECK OF HUTTON,
i — 2. Best end. 2 — 3. Scrag.

ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON.

738. Ingredients. — Saddle of mutton; a little salt.

Mode. — To insure this joint being tender, let it hang for ten

days or a fortnight, if the weather per-
mits. Cut off the tail and flaps, and
trim away every part that has not
indisputable pretensions to be eaten,
and have the skin taken oil' and
skewered on again. Tut it down to a
bright, clear Are, and, when the joint

SADDLE OF MUTTON. , , , . ’ ,

lias been cooking lor an hour, remove
the skin and dredge it with flour. It should not be placed too near

MUTTON.

349

the fire, as the fat should not be in the slightest degree burnt. Keep
constantly hasting, both before and after the skin is removed ; sprinkle
some salt over the joint. Make a little gravy in the dripping-pan ;
pour it over the meat, which send to table with a tureen of made
gravy and red-currant jelly.

Time— A saddle of mutton weighing 10 lbs., 2i hours; 14 lbs.,
31 hours. When liked underdone, allow rather less time.

Average cost, 10c?. per lb.

Sufficient— A moderate-sized saddle of 10 lbs. for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable all the year ; not so good when lamb is in full season.

ROAST SHOULDER OP MUTTON.

739. Ingredients. — Shoulder of mutton ; a little salt.

Mode. — Put the joint down to a bright, clear fire ; flour it well, and
keep continually basting. About \ hour
before serving, draw it near the fire,
that the outside may acquire a nice
brown colour, but not sufficiently ne.-i r
to blacken the fat. Sprinkle a little
fine salt over the meat, empty the
dripping-pan of its contents, pour in . shoulder or mutton.
a little boiling water slightly salted,

and strain this over the joint. Onion sauce, or stewed Spanish
onions, are usually sent to table with this dish, and sometimes baked
potatoes.

Time. — A shoulder of mutton weighing 6 or 7 lbs., I t hour.

Average cost, 8 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Shoulder of mutton may be dressed in a variety of ways ; boiled,
and served with onion sauce ; boned, and stuffed with a good veal forcemeat ;
or baked, with sliced potatoes in the dripping-pan.

The Ettrick Shepherd. — James Hogg was perhaps the most remarkable man that
ever wore the maud, of a shepherd. Under the garb, aspect, and bearing of a rude
peasant (and rude enough he was in most of these things, even after no inconsiderable
experience of society), the world soon discovered a true poet. He taught himself to
write, by copying the letters of a printed book as he lay watching his flock on the hill-
side, and believed that ho had reached the utmost pitch of his ambition when he first
found that his artless rhymes could touch the heart of the ewe-milker who partook the
shelter of his mantle during the passing storm. If “ the shepherd ” of Professor Wilson's
“ Noetes Ambrosiante ” may be taken as a true portrait of James Hogg, we must admit
that, for quaintness of humour, the poet of Ettrick Forest had few rivals. Sir Walter
Scott said that Hogg's thousand little touches of absurdity afforded him more enter-
tainment than tho best comedy that ever set the pit in a roar. Among tho written
productions of the shepherd-poet, is an account of his own experiences in sheep-tending,
called “The Shepherd's Calender.” This work contains a vast amount of useful in-
formation upon sheep, their diseases, hubits, and management. The Ettrick Shepherd
died in 1835.

350

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

SHEEP’S BRAIN3, EN MATELOTE (an Entree).

740. Ingredients. — 6 sheep’s brains, -vinegar, salt, a few slices of
bacon, 1 small onion, 2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, sufficient
stock or weak broth to cover the brains, I tablespoonful of lemon-
juice, matelote sauce* No. 512.

Mode— Detach the brains from the heads without breaking them,
and put them into a pan of warm water ; remove the skin, and let
them remain for two hours. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water,
add a little vinegar and salt, and put in the brains. When they are
quite firm, take them out and put them into very cold water. Place
2 or 3 slices of bacon in a stewpan, put in the brains, the onion stuck
with 2 cloves, the parsley, and a good seasoning of pepper and salt ;
cover with stock, or weak broth, and boil them gently for about
25 minuteb. Have ready some croutons ; arrange these in the
dish alternately with the brains, and cover with a matelote
sauce, No. 512, to which has been added the above proportion of
lemon-juice.

Time. — 25 minutes. Average cost, Is. 6c/.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

SHEEP’S FEET or THOTTEItS (Soyer’s Recipe).

741. Ingredients.— 12 feet, \ lb. of beef or mutton suet, 2 onions,

1 carrot, 2 bay-leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 oz. of salt, 3 oz. of pepper,

2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2| quarts of water, 3 lb. of fresh butter,
1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 3 teaspoonful of pepper,
a little grated nutmeg, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 gill of milk, the yolks
of 2 eggs.

Mode. — Have the feet cleaned, and the long bone extracted from
them. Put the suet into a stewpan, with the onions and carrot sliced,
the bay-leaves, thyme, salt, and pepper, and let these simmer for
5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and the water, and keep
stirring till it boils ; then put in the feet. Let these simmer for

3 hours, or until perfectly tender, and take them and lay them on a
sieve. Mix together, on a plate, with the back of a spoon, butter, salt,
flour (l teaspoonful), popper, nutmeg, and lemon-juice as above, and
put the feet, with a gill of milk, into a stewpan. When very hot, add
the butter, &c., and stir continually till melted. Now mix the
yolks of 2 eggs with 5 tablespoonluls of milk ; stir this to the other
ingredients, keep moving the pan over the tiro continually for a
minute or two, but do not allow it to boil after the eggs are added.

MUTTON.

351

Serve in a very hot dish, and garnish with croutons, or sippets of
toasted bread.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 cl.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

TO DRESS A SHEEP’S HEAD.

742. Ingredients. — 1 sheep’s head, sufficient water to cover it,
3 carrots, 3 turnips, 2 or 3 parsnips, 3 onions, a small hunch of
parsley, 1 teaspoonfnl of pepper, 3 teaspoonfuls of salt, i lb. of Scotch
oatmeal.

Mode. — Clean the head well, and let it soak in warm water for
2 hours, to get rid of the blood ; put it into a saucepan, with sufficient
cold water to cover it, and when it boils, add the vegetables, peeled
and sliced, and the remaining ingredients ; before adding the oatmeal,
mix it to a smooth hatter with a little of the liquor. Keep stirring
till it boils up ; then shut the saucepan closely, and let it stew gently
for li or 2 hours. It may he thickened with rice or barley, but
oatmeal is preferable.

Time. — 1| or 2 hours. Average cost, 8 d. each.

Sufficient for 3 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Singed Sheep’s Head.— The village of Dudingston, which stands “ within a mile of
Edinburgh town,” was formerly celebrated for this ancient and homely Scottish dish.
In the summer months, many opulent citizens used to resort to this place to solace
themselves over singed sheep’s heads, boiled or baked. The sheep fed upon the neigh-
bouring hills were slaughtered at this village, and the carcases were sent to town ; but
the heads were left to be consumed in the place. We are not aware whether the
custom of eating sheep’B heads at Dudingston is still kept up by the good folks of
Edinburgh.

TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE (Cold Meat Cookery).

, 743. Ingredients. — 6 oz. of flour, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, butter,
a few slices of cold mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 kidneys.

Mode. — Make a smooth batter of flour, milk, and eggs in the above
proportion ; butter a baking-dish, and pour in the batter. Into this
place a few slices of cold mutton, previously well seasoned, and the
kidneys, which should be cut into rather small pieces ; bake about
1 hour, or rather longer, and send it to table in the dish it was baked
in. Oysters or mushrooms may he substituted for the kidneys, and
will be found exceedingly good.

Time. — Rather more than 1 hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 8t7.

Seasonable at any time.

352

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

BREAST OP LAMB AND GREEN PEAS.

744- Ingredients.— 1 breast of lamb, a few slices of bacon, £ pint of
stock, No. 105, 1 lemon, 1 onion, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, green peas.

Mode. — Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, put it into a sauce-
pan of boiling water, and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Take it out
and lay it in cold water. Line the bottom of a stewpan with a few
thin slices of bacon ; lay the lamb on these ; peel the lemon, cut it into
slices, and put these on the meat, to keep it white and make it tender ;
cover with 1 or 2 more slices of bacon; add the stock, onion, and
herbs, and set it on a slow fire to simmer very gently until tender.
Have ready some green peas, put these on a dish, and place the lamb
on the top of these. The appearance of this dish may be much
improved by glazing the lamb, and spinach may be substituted for the
peas when variety is desired.

Time. — it hour. Average cost, 10 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 3 persons.

Seasonable , grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.

The Lame as a Sacrifice. — The number of lambs consumed in sacrifices by the
Hebrews must have been very considerable. Two lambs “ of the first year ” were
appointed to be sacrificed daily for the morning and evening sacrifice; and a lamb
served as a substitute for the first-born of unclean animals, such as the ass, which could
not he accepted ns an offering to the Lord. Every year, also, on the anniversary of the
deliverance of the children of Israel from the bondage of Egypt, every family was
ordered to sacrifice a lamb or kid, and to sprinkle some of its blood upon the door-posts,
in commerporation of the judgment of God upon the Egyptians. It was to be eaten
roasted, with unleavened bread and bitter herbs, in haste, with the loins girded, the
shoes on the feet, and the staff in the hand ; and whatever remained until the morning
was to be burnt. The sheep was also used in the numerous special, individual, and
national sacrifices ordered by the Jewish law. On extraordinary occasions, vast
quantities of sheep were sacrificed at once ; thus Solomon, on the completion of the
temple, offered “ sheep and oxen that could not be told nor numbered for multitude.”

STEWED BREAST OF LAMB.

745. Ingredients. — 1 breast of lamb, pepper and salt to taste,
sufficient stock, No. 105, to cover it, 1 glass of sherry, thickening of
butter and flour.

Mode. — Skin the lamb, cut it into pieces, and season them with
pepper and salt ; lay these in a stewpan, pour in sufficient stock or
gravy to cover them, and stew very gently until tender, which will be
in about 1 i hour. J ust before serving, thicken the sauce with a little
butter and flour; add the sherry, give one boil, and pour it over the
meat. Green peas, or stewed mushrooms, may be strewed over the meat,
and will be found a very great improvement.

'Time. — If hour. Average cost, 10 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 3 persons.

Seasonable, grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.

LA31B.

353

LAMB CHOPS.

746. Ingredients. — Loin of lamb, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Trim oft’ the flap from a fine loin of lamb, and cut it
into chops about f inch in thickness. Have ready a bright clear lire ;
lay the chops on a gridiron, and broil them of a nice pale brown,
turning them when require^ Season them with pepper and salt ;
serve very hot and quickly, and garnish with crisped parsley, or
place them on mashed potatoes. Asparagus, spinach, or peas are
the favourite accompaniments to lamb chops.

Time. — About 8 or 10 minutes. Average cost, Is. per lb.

Sufficient— Allow 2 chops to each person.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB CUTLETS AND SPINACH (an Entree).

747. Ingredients. — 8 cutlets, egg and bread crumbs, salt and
pepper to taste, a little clarified butter.

Mode. — Cut the cutlets from a neck of lamb, and shape them by
cutting off the thick part of the chine-bone. Trim off most of the fat
and all the skin, and scrape the top part of the bones quite clean.
Brush the cutlets over with egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs,
and season with pepper and salt. Now dip them into clarified butter,
sprinkle over a few more bread crumbs, and fry them over a sharp
lire, turning them when required. Lay them before the fire to drain,
and arrange them on a dish with spinach in the centre, which should
be previously well boiled, drained, chopped, and seasoned.

Time. — About 7 or 8 minutes. Average cost, 10 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

Note.— rPeas, asparagus, or French beans, may bo substituted for tho
spinach ; or lamb cutlets may be served with stewed cucumbers, Soubise
sauce, &c. &c. «

LAMB’S FRY.

748. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of lamb’s fry, 3 pints of water, egg and
• bread crumbs, 1 tcaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to

taste.

Mode. — Boil the fry for hour in the above proportion of water,
take it out and dry it in a cloth ; grate some bread down finely, mix
with it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a high seasoning of
pepper and salt. Brush the fry lightly over with the yolk of an egg,
sprinkle oyer the bread crumbs, and fry for 5 minutes. Serve very

2 A

354

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

hot on a napkin in a dish, and garnish with plenty of crisped
parsley.

Time. — \ hour to simmer the fry, 5 minutes to fry it.

Average cost, 10 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

•

HASHED LAMB AND BROILED BLADE-BONE.

749- Ingredients. — The remains of a cold shoulder of lamb, pepper
and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, about i pint of stock or gravy, 1 table-
spoonful of sbalot vinegar, 3 or 4 pickled gherkins.

Mode. — Take the blade-bone from the shoulder, and cut the meat
into collops as neatly as possible. Season the bone with pepper and
salt, pour a little oiled butter over it, and place it in the oven to warm
through. Put the stock into a stewpan, add the ketchup and shalot
vinegar, and lay in the pieces of lamb. Let these heat gradually
through, but do not allow them to boil. Take the blade-bone out of
the oven, and place it on a gridiron over a sharp fire to brown. Slice
the gherkins, put them into the hash, and dish it with the blade-bone
in the centre. It may be garnished with crofitons or sippets of toasted
bread.

Time. — Altogether \ hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, id.

Seasotiable. — House lamb, from Christmas to March ; grass lamb,
from Easter to Michaelmas.

, ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.

750- Ingredients. — Lamb, a little salt.

Mode. — To obtain the flavour of lamb in perfection, it should not be
long kept ; time to cool is all that it requires ; and though the meat
may be somewhat thready, the juices and flavour will be infinitely
superior to that of lamb that has been killed 2 or 3 days. Make up

the fire in good time, that it may be
clear and brisk when the joint is put
down. Place it at a sufficient distance
to prevent the fat from burning, and
baste it constantly till the moment

of serving. Lamb should be very
rou-vurcn or limb. thoroughly done without being dried

up, and not the slightest appearance of red gravy should be visible, as
in roast mutton : this rule is applicable to all young white meats.
Serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-pan, the same as for
other roasts, and send to tabic with it a tureen ot mint sauce, Ko. 469,

LAMB.

355

and a fresh salad. A cut lemon, a small piece of fresh butter, and a
little cayenne, should also he placed on the table, so that when the
carver separates the shoulder from the ribs, they may be ready for his
use ; if, however, he should not be very expert, we would recommend
that the cook should divide these joints nicely before coming to table.

Time. — Fore-quartet of lamb weighing 10 lbs., if to 2 hours.

Average cost, 10c?. to Is. per lb. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable, grass lamb, from Easter to Michaelmas.

BOILED LEG OF LAMB A LA BECHAMEL.

751 . Ingredients. — Leg of lamb, Bechamel sauce, No. 367.

Mode. — Do not choose a very large joint, but one weighing about

5 lbs. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, into which plunge
the lamb, and when it boils up again, draw it to the side of the fire,
and let the water cool a little. Then stew very gently for about
If hour, reckoning from the time that the water begins to simmer.
Make some Bechamel by recipe No. 367, dish the lamb, pour the sauce
over it, and garnish with tufts of boiled cauliflower or carrots. When
liked, melted butter may be substituted for the Bechamel ; tins is a
more simple method, but not nearly so nice. Send to table with it
some of the sauce in a tureen, and boiled cauliflowers or spinach, with
whichever vegetable the dish is garnished.

Time.— if hour after the water simmers.

Average cost, 1 OeZ. to Is. per lb. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

ROAST LEG OF LAMB.

752. Ingredients.— Lamb, a little salt.

Mode.— Place the joint at a good distance from the fire at first, and
baste well the whole time it is cooking.

When nearly done, draw it nearer the fire
to acquire a nice brown colour. Sprinkle
a little fine salt over the meat, empty the
dripping-pan of its contents ; pour in a
little boiling water, and strain this over
the meat. Serve with mint sauce and a
fresh salad, and for vegetables send peas, spinach, or cauliflowers to
table with it.

Time.— A leg of lanlb weighing 5 lbs., If hour.

Average cost, KkZ. to is. per lb. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

2 a 2

LEG OV LAMB.

35G

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOK I. It Y.

BRAISED LOOT OP LAMB.

753. Ingredients. — 1 loin of lamb, a few slices of bacon, 1 bunch
of green onions, 5 or 6 young carrots, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades
of pounded mace, 1 pint of stock, salt to taste.

Mode. — Bone a loin of lamb, and line the bottom of a stewpan

just capable of holding it, with a few
thin slices of fat bacon ; add the remain-
ing ingredients, cover the meat with a
few more slices of bacon, pour in the
loin of lamb. stock, and simmer very g entity for 2 hours ;

take it up, dry it, strain and reduce the
gravy to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, and serve it either on
stewed peas, spinach, or stewed cucumbers.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 11 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from Easter t<J Michaelmas.

ROAST SADDLE OP LAMB.

754. Ingredients. — Lamb ; a little salt.

Mode. — This joint is now very much in vogue, and is generally
considered a nice one for a small party. Have ready a clear brisk

SADDLE OF LAMB. BIBS OF LAMB.

fire ; put down the joint at a little distance, to prevent the fat from
scorching, and keep it well basted all the time it is cooking. Serve
with mint sauce and a fresh salad, and send to table with it, either
peas, cauliflowers, or spinach.

Time. — A small saddle, If hour ; a largo one, 2 hours.

Average cost, 10 d. to Is. per lb.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

Note.— Loin and ribs of lamb aro roasted in the same manner, and served
with the same saucos as the above. A loin will tako about 1} hour; ribs, from
1 to II hour.

BOAST SHOULDER OP LAMB.

755- Ingredients.— Lamb ; a little salt.

Mode. — Have ready a clear brisk lire, and put down the joint at a

LAMB.

357

sufficient distance from it, that the fat may not burn. Keep constantly
basting until done, and serve with a little gravy made in the dripping-
pan, and send mint sauce to table with it. Peas, spinach, or cauli-
iiowers are the usual vegetables served with lamb, and also a fresh
salad.

Time. — A shoulder of lamb rather more than 1 hour.

Average cost, 10 cl. to Is. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

SHOULDER OE LAMB STUBBED.

756." Ingredients. — Shoulder of lamb, forcemeat No. 417, trimmings
of veal or beef, 2 onions, i head of celery, 1 faggot of savoury herbs,
a few slices of fat bacon, 1 quart of stock No. 105.

Mode, — Take the blade-bone out of a shoulder of lamb, fill up
its place with forcemeat, and sew it up with coarse thread. Put it
into a stewpan with a few slices of bacon under and over the lamb,
and add the remaining ingredients. Stew very gently for rather more
than 2 hours. Reduce the gravy, with which glaze the meat, and
serve with peas, stewed cucumbers, or sorrel sauce.

Time. — Rather more than 2 hours. Average cost, 10(7. to Is. per lb.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

LAMB’S SWEETBREADS, LARDED, AND ASPARAGUS

(an Entree).

757- Ingredients. — 2 or 3 sweetbreads, § pint of veal stock, white
pepper and salt to taste, a small bunch of green onions, 1 blade of
pounded mace, thickening of butter and Hour, 2 eggs, nearly 5 pint of
cream, 1 tcaspoonful of minced parsley, a very little grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water, and put them
into a saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover them, and let
them simmer for 10 minutes ; then take them out and put them into
cold water. Now lard them, lay them in a stewpan, add the stock,
seasoning, onions, macc, and a thickening of butter and flour, and
stew gently for \ hour or 20 minutes. Beat up the egg with the cream,
to which add the minced parsley and a very little grated nutmeg. Put
this to the other ingredients ; stir it well till quite hot, but do not let
it boil after the cream is added, or it will curdle. Have ready some
asparagus-tops, boiled ; add these to the sweetbreads, and serve.

Time. — Altogether k hour. Average cost, 2s. G d. to 3s. 6 d. each.

. Sufficient — 3 sweetbreads for 1 entree.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

358

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ANOTHER WAY TO DRESS SWEETBREADS (an Entree).

758. Ingredients. — Sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, 5 pint of
gravy, No. 442, 4 glass of sherry.

Mode. — Soak the sweetbreads in water for an hour, and throw them
into boiling water to render them firm. Let them stew gently for about
| hour, take them out and put them into a cloth to drain all the
water from them. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle them with
bread crumbs, and either brown them in the oven or before the fire.
Have ready the above quantity of gravy, to which add 4 glass of
sherry ; dish the sweetbreads, pour the gravy under them, and garnish
with water-cresses.

Time. — Rather more than 2 hour. Average cost, 2s. 6rf.to3s.6rf.each.

Sufficient—3 sweetbreads for 1 entree.

Seasonable from Easter to Michaelmas.

MUTTON AND LAMB CARVING.

HAUNCH OP MUTTON.

759. A deep cut should, in the first place, be made quite down

to the bone, across the knuckle-end
of the joint, along the line 1 to 2.
This will let the gravy escape; and
then it should be carved, in not too

haunch or mutton. thick slices, along the whole length

of the haunch, in the direction of the line from 4 to 3.

LEG OP MUTTON.

760. This homely, but capital English joint, is almost invariably
served at table as shown in the engraving. The carving of it is

not very difficult : the knife should be carried
sharply down in the direction of the line from
1 to 2, and slices taken from either side, as the
guests may desire, some liking the knuckle-
end, as well done, and others preferring the
more underdone part. The fat should be sought
near the line 3 to 4. Some connoisseurs are
fond of having this joint dished with the under-side uppermost, so as
to get at the finely-grained meat lying under that part of the meat,

HUG OF MUTTON.

MUTTON CARVING.

359

known as the Pope’s eye ; hut this is an extravagant fashion, and one
that will hardly find favour in the eyes of many economical British
housewives and housekeepers.

LOIN 03? MUTTON.

761. There is one point in connection with carving a loin of mutton
which includes every other ; that is, that the joint should be thoroughly
well jointed by the butcher before it is
cooked. This knack of jointing requires
practice and the proper tools; and no one
but the butcher is supposed to have these.

If the bones be not well jointed, the carving
of a loin of mutton is not a gracious busi-
ness ; whereas, if that has been attended to,
it is an easy and untroublesome task. The knife should be inserted
at fig. 1, and after feeling your way between the bones, it should be
carried sharply in the direction of the line 1 to 2. As there are some'
people who prefer the outside cut, while others do not like it, the
question as to their choice of this should be asked.

LOIN or MUTTON.

SADDLE OP MUTTON.

SADDLE OV MUTTON.

76a. Although we have heard, at various intervals, growlings ex-
pressed at the inevitable “ saddle of mutton” at the dinner-parties
of our middle classes, yet we doubt whether
any other joint is better liked, when it has
been well hung and artistically cooked. There
is a diversity of opinion respecting the mode
of sending this joint to table ; but it has
only reference to whether or no there shall
be any portion of the tail, or, if so, how many
joints of the tail. We ourselves prefer the mode as shown in our
coloured illustration “0;” but others may, upon equally good
grounds, like the way shown in the engraving on this page. Some
trim the tail with a paper frill. The carving is not difficult : it is
usually cut in the direction of the line from 2 to 1, quite down to the
bones, in evenly-sliced pieces. A fashion, however, patronized by
some, is to carve it obliquely, in the direction of the line from 4 to 3 ;
in which case the joint would be turned round the other way, having
the tail end on the right of the carver.

SHOULDER OP MUTTON.

763. This is a joint not difficult to carve. The knife should be

360

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

drawn from the outer edge of the shoulder in the direction of the line
from 1 to 2, until the hone of the shoulder is
reached. As many slices’ as can be carved in
this manner should be taken, and afterwards
the meat lying on either side of the blade-bone
should bo served, by carving in the direction of
3 to 4 and 3 to 4. The uppermost side of the
shoulder being now finished, the joint should
be turned, and slices taken off along its whole length. There are some
who prefer this under-side of the shoulder for its juicy flesh, although
the grain of the meat is not so fine as that on the other side.

SHOULDER OP MUTTON.

FORE - QUARTER OF LAMB.

. 764. We always think that a good and practised carver delights in
the manipulation of this joint, for there is a little field for his judg-
ment and dexterity which does not
always occur. The separation of the
shoulder from the breast is the first
point to be attended to ; this is done
by passing the knife lightly round the
dotted line, as shown by the figures
1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, so as to cut throirgh
the skin, and then, by raising with a
little force the shoulder, into which the fork should be firmly fixed,
it will come away with just a little more exercise of the knife. In
dividing the shoulder and breast, the carver should take care not to
cut away too much of the meat from the latter, as that would rather
spoil its appearance when the shoulder is removed. The breast and
shoulder being separated, it is usual to lay a small piece of butter,
and sprinkle a little cayenne, lemon-juice, and salt between them ;
and when this is melted and incorporated with the meat and gravy, the
shoulder may, as more convenient, be removed into another dish. The
next operation is to separate the ribs from the brisket, by cutting through
the meat on the line 5 to G. The joint is then ready fo be served to
the guests ; the ribs being carved in the direction of the lines from 9
to 10, and the brisket from 7 to S. The carver should ask those at the
table what parts they prefer— ribs, brisket, or a piece of the shoulder.

LEG OF LAMB, LOIN OF LAMB, SADDLE OF LAMB,
SHOULDER OF LAMB,

are carved in the same manner as the corresponding joints of Mutton.
(See Nos. 760, 761, 762, 763.)

CHAPTER XVr.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG.

765. The Hog belongs to the order Mammalia, the genus Sus scrofa, and
the species Pachyclermata, or thick-skinned ; and its generic characters are,
a small head, with long flexible snout truncated ; 42 teeth, divided into 4
upper incisors, converging, 6 lower incisors, projecting, 2 upper and 2 lower
canine, or tusks, — the former short, the latter projecting, formidable, and
sharp, and 14 molars in each jaw ; cloven feet furnished with 4 toes, and tail,
small, short, and twisted ; while, in some varieties, this appendage is altogether
wanting.

766. From the Number and Position op the Teeth, physiologists are
enabled to define the nature and functions of the animal ; and from those of
the Sus, or hog, it is evident that ho is as much a grinder as a biter, or can
live as well on vegetable as on animal food ; though a mixture of both is
plainly indicated as the character of food most conducive to the integrity and
health of its physical system.

7C7. Thus the Pig Tribe, though not a ruminating mammal, as might
be inferred from the number of its molar toeth, is yet a link between the
herbivorous and the carnivorous tribes, and is consequently what is known as
an omnivorous quadruped ; or, in other words, capable of converting any
kind of aliment into nutriment.

362

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

76S. Though the Hoof in the Hog is, as a general rule, cloven, there are
several remarkable exceptions, as in the species native to Norway, Illyria,
Sardinia, and formerly to the Berkshire variety of the British domesticated
pig, in which the hoof is entire and «»cleft.

769. Whatever Difference in its Physical Nature, climate and soil
may produce in this animal, his functional characteristics are the same in
whatever part of the world he may be found ; and whether in the trackless
forests of South America, the coral isles of Polynesia, the jungles of India, or
the spicy brakes of Sumatra, he is everywhere known for his gluttony,
laziness, and indifference to the character and quality of his food. And
though he occasionally shows an epicure’s relish for a succulent plant or a
luscious carrot, which he will discuss with all his salivary organs keenly
excited, he will, the next moment, turn with equal gusto to some carrion offal
that might excite the forbearance of the unscrupulous cormorant. It in this
coarse and repulsive mode of feeding that has, in every country and language,
obtained for him the opprobr ium of being “ an unclean animal.”

770. In the MosaICAl Law, the pig is condemned as an unclean beast,
and consequently interdicted to the Israelites, as unfit for human food. “ And
the swine, though he divideth the hoof and be cloven-footed, yet he cheweth
not the cud. He is unclean to you.”- — Lev. xi. 7. Strict, however, as the
law was respecting the cud-chewing and hoof-divided animals, the Jews, with
their usual perversity and violation of the divine commands, seem afterwards
to have ignored the prohibition ; for, unless they ate pork, it is difficult to con-
ceive for what purpose they kept droves of swine, as from the circumstance
recorded in Matthew xviii. 32, when Jesus was in Galilee, and the devils, cast
out of the two men, were permitted to enter the herd of swine that were
feeding on the hills in the neighbourhood of the Sea of Tiberias, it is very
evident they did. There is only one interpretation by which wo can account
for a prohibition that debarred the Jews from so many foods which we regard
as nutritious luxuries, that, being fat and the texture more hard of digestion
than other meats, they were likely, in a hot dry climate, where vigorous
exercise could seldom be taken, to produce disease, and especially cutaneous
affections ; indeed, in this light, as a code of sanitary ethics, the book of
Leviticus is the most admirable system of moral government over conceived
for man’s benefit.

771. Setting his coarse Feeding and slovenly Habits out of the
question, there is no domestic animal so profitable or so useful to man as the
much-maligned pig, or any that yields him a more varied or more luxurious
repast. The prolific powors of the pig are extraordinary, even under the
restraint of domestication ; but when loft to run wild in favourable situa-
tions, as in the islands of the South Pacific, the result, in a few years,
from two animals put on shore and left undisturbed, is truly surprising : for
thoy breed so fnst, and have such numerous litters, that unless killed ofl in

THE HOG.

363

vast numbers both for the use of the inhabitants and as fresh provisions
for ships’ crews, they would degenerate into vermin. In this country the
pig has usually two litters, or farrows, in a year, the breeding seasons being
April and October ; and the period the female goes with her young is about
four months, — 16 weeks or 122 days. The number produced at each litter
depends upon the character of the breed ; 12 being the average number in
the small variety, and 10 in the large ; in the mixed breeds, however, the
average is between 10 and 15, and in some instances has reached as many
as 20. But however few, or however many, young pigs there may be to
the farrow, there is always one who is the dwarf of the family circle, a
poor, little, shrivelled, half-starved anatomy, with a small melancholy voice,
a staggering gait, a woe-begone countenance, and a thread of a tail, whose
existence the complacent mother ignores, his plethoric brothers and sisters
repudiate, and for whose emaciated jaws there is never a spare or supple-
mental teat, till one of the favoured gormandizers, overtaken by momentary
oblivion, drops the lacteal fountain, and gives the little squeaking straggler
the chance of a momentary mouthful. This miserable little object, which
may be seen bringing up the rear of every litter, is called the Tony pig, or
the Anthony ; so named, it is presumed, from being the one always assigned
to the Church, when tithe was taken in kind ; and as St. Anthony was the
patron of husbandry, his name was given in a sort of bitter derision to the
starveling that constituted his dues ; for whether there are ten or fifteen
farrows to the litter, the Anthony is always the last of the family to come
into the world.

772. From the Grossness of his Feeding, the large amount of aliment
he consumes, his gluttonous way of eating it, from his slothful habits, laziness,
and indulgence in sleep, the pig is particularly liable to disease, and especially
indigestion, heartburn, and affections of the skin.

♦

773. To counteract the Consequence of a Yiolation of the
Physical Laws, a powerful monitor in the brain of the pig teaches him to
seek for relief and medicine. To open the pores of his skin, blocked up with
mud, and excite perspiration, he resorts to a tree, a stump, or his trough—
anything rough and angular, and using it as a curry-comb to his body, obtains
the luxury of a scratch and the benefit of cuticular evaporation ; he next
proceeds with his long supple snout to grub up antiscorbutic roots, cooling
salads of mallow and dandelion, and, greatest treat of all, he stumbles on a
pieco of^chalk or a mouthful of delicious cinder, which, he knows by instinct,
is tho most sovereign remedy in the world for that hot, unpleasant sonsation
he has had all the morning at his stomach.

774- It is a Remarkable Fact that, though evory one who keeps a pig-
knows how prone he is to disoase, how that disease injures tho quality of the
meat, and how eagerly ho pounces on a bit of coal or cinder, or any coarse
dry substance that will adulterate the rich food on which ho livos, and by

304

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKEKY.

a&’ording soda to Lis system, correct the vitiated fluids of his body, — yet very
few have the judgment to act on what they see, and by supplying the pig with
a few shovelfuls of cinders in his sty, save the necessity of his rooting for what
is so needful to his health. Instead of this, however, and without supplying
the animal with what its instinct craves for, his nostril is bored with a red-hot
iron, and a ring clinched in his nose to prevent rooting for what he feels to be
absolutely necessary for his health ; and ignoring the fact that, in a domestic
state at least, the pig lives on the richest of all food, — scraps of cooked animal
substances, boiled vegetables, bread, and other items, given in that concentrated
essence of aliment for a quadruped called wash, and that he eats to repletion,
takes no exercise, and finally sleeps all the twenty-four hours he is not eating,
and then, when the animal at last seeks for those medicinal aids which would
obviate the evil of such a forcing diet, his keeper, instead of meeting his animal
instinct by human reason, and giving him what he seeks, has the inhumanity
to torture him by a ring, that, keeping up a perpetual “raw” in the pig’s
snout, prevents his digging for those corrective drugs which would remove the
evils of his artificial existence.

775. Though subject to so many Diseases, no domestic animal is more
easily kept in health, cleanliness, and comfort, and this wdthout the necessity
of “ringing,” or any excessive desire of the hog to roam, break through his
sty, or plough up his pound. Whatever the kind of food may be on which
the pig is being fed or fattened, a teaspoonful or more of salt should always
be given in his mess of food, and a little heap of well-burnt cinders, with occa-
sional bits of chalk, should always be kept bj' the side of his trough, as well as
a vessel of clean water : his pound, or the front part of his sty, should be
totally free from straw, the brick flooring being every day swept out and
sprinkled with a layer of sand. Ilis lam, or sleeping apartment, should bo
well sheltered by roof and sides from cold, wet, and all changes of weather, and
the bed mado up of a good supply of clean straw, sufficiently deep to enable i
tho pig- to burrow his unprotected body beneath it. All the refuse of the
garden, in tho shapo of roots, leaves, and stalks, should be placed in a corner
of his pound or feeding-chamber, for the delectation of his leisure moments ;
and once a. week, on the family washing-day, a pail of warm soap-suds should
be taken into his sty, and, by means of a scrubbing-brush and soap, his back,
shoulders, and flanks should be well cleaned, a pail of clean warm water being
thrown over his body at the conclusion, before he is allowed to retreat to his
clean straw to dry himself. By this means, the excessive nutriti^i of his
aliment will be corrected, a more perfect digestion insured, and, by opening
the pores of the skin, a more vigorous state of health acquired than could have 1
been obtained under any other system.

776. We have already said that no other animal yields man so many
kinds and varieties of luxurious food as is supplied to him by the flesh of the
hog differently prepared ; for almost every part of the animal, cither fresh,

THE HOG.

335

♦

salted, or dried, is used for food ; and even those viscera not so employed are
of the utmost utility in a domestic point of view.

777. Though destitute op the Hide, Horns, and Hoops, constituting
the offal of most domestic animals, tho pig is not behind the other mammalia
in its usefulness to man. Its skin, especially that of the boar, from its extreme
closeness of texture, when tanned, is employed for the seats of saddles, to
cover powder, shot, and drinking-flasks ; and the hair, according to its colour,
flexibility, and stubbornness, is manufactured into tooth, nail, and hair-
brushes,— others into hat, clothes, and shoe-brushes ; while the longer and finer
qualities -are made into long and short brooms and painters’ brushes ; and a
still more rigid description, under the name of “bristles,” are used by the
shoemaker as needles for the passage of his wax-end. Besides so many bene-
fits and useful services conferred on man by this valuable animal, his fat, in a
commercial sense, is quite as important as his flesh, and brings a price equal
to the best joints in the carcase. This fat is rendered, or melted out of the caul,
or membrqne in which it is contained, by boiling water, and, while liquid, run
into prepared bladders, when, under the name of lard, it becomes an article
of extensive trade and value.

778. Of the numerous Varieties op the Domesticated Hog, the fol-
lowing list of breeds may be accepted as the best, presenting severally all those
qualities aimed at in the rearing of domestic stock, as affecting both tho
breeder and the consumer. Native — Berkshire, Essex, York, and Cumber-
land ; Foreign — the Chinese. Before, however, proceeding with the con-
sideration of the different orders, in the series wo have placed them, it will be
necessary to make a few remarks relative to tho pig generally. In the first
place, the Black Pig is regarded by breeders as the. best and most eligible
animal, not only from the fineness and delicacy- of the skin, but because it is
less affected by the heat in summer-, and far less subject to cuticular disease
than either the white or brindled hog, but more particularly from its kindlier
nature and greater aptitude to fatten.

779. The Great Quality first sought for in a Hog is a capacious
stomach, and next, a healthy power of digestion ; for the greater the quantity
he can eat, and tho more rapidly he can digest what he has eaten, the more
quickly will he fatten ; and the faster he can be made to increase in flesh, with-
out a material increase of bone, the better is the breed considered, and the
more rateable the animal. In the usual order of nature, the development of
flesh and enlargement of bone proceed together; but here the object is to
outstrip the growth of the bones by the quicker development of their fleshy
covering.

780. The CniEF Points sought for in the Choice of a Hog arc
breadth of chest, depth of carcase, width of loin, chine, and ribs, compactness
of form, docility, cheerfulness, and genoral beauty of appearance. Tho head

366

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

in a wifll-bred liog- must not bo too long, the forehead narrow and convex, cheeks
full, snout fine, mouth small, eyes small and quick, ears short, thin, and sharp,
pendulous, and pointing forwards ; neck full and broad, particularly on the top,
where it should join very broad shoulders; the ribs, loin, and haunch should be
in a uniform line, and the tail well set, neither too high nor too low ; at the
same time the back is to be straight or slightly curved, the chest deep, broad,
and prominent, the legs short and thick ; the belly, when well fattened, should
nearly touch the ground, the hair be long, thin, fine, and having few bristles,
and whatever the colour, uniform, either white, black, or blue ; but not spotted,
speckled, brindled, or sandy. Such are the features and requisites that, among
breeders and judges, constitute the beau ideal of a perfect pig.

781. The Berkshire Pig is the best known and most esteemed ot
all our English domestic breeds, and so highly is it regarded, that even the

mekshihe sow.

varieties of the stock are in as great estimation as the parent breed itself.
The characteristics of the Berkshire hog are that it has a tawny colour, spotted
with black, large ears hanging over the eyes, a thick, close, and well-made
body, legs short and small in the bone ; feeds up to- a great weight, fattens
quickly, and is good either for pork or bacon. The New or Improved Berk-
shire possesses all the above qualities, but is infinitely more prone |jf> fatten,
while the objectionable colour has been entirely done away with, being now
either all white or completely black.

782. Next to the former, the Essex takes place in public estimation,
always competing, and often successfully, with the Berkshire. 1 lie peculiar
characters of the Essex breed are that it is tip-eared, has a long sharp head, is
roach-backed, with a long fiat body, standing high on the legs ; is rather bare

THE HOG.

367

of hail-, is a quick feeder, has an enormous capacity of stomach and belly, and
an appetite to match its receiving capability. Its colour is white, or else black

ESSEX SOW.

and white, and it has a restless habit and an unquiet disposition. The present
valuable stock has sprung from a cross between the common native animal
and either the White Chinese or Black Neapolitan breeds.

783. The Yorkshire, called also the Old Lincolnshire, was at one time
the largest stock of the pig family in England, and perhaps, at that time, the

XORKSHIBE SOW.

worst. It was long-legged, weak in the loins, with coarse white curly hair, and
flabby flesh. Now, however, it has undergone as great a change as any breed

S6S

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

in the kingdom, and by judicious crossing bas becomo the most valuable we
possess, being a very well-formed pig throughout, with a good head, a pleasant
docile countenance, with moderate-sized drooping ears, a broad back, slightly
curved, large chine and loins, with deop sides, full chest, and well covered with
long thickly-set white hairs. Besides these qualities of form, he is a quick I
grower, feeds fast, and will easily make from 20 to 25 stone before completing
his first'year. Tho quality of the meat is also uncommonly good, the fat and
lean being'laid on in almost equal proportions. So capable is this species of
development, both in flesh and stature, that examples of the Yorkshire breed I
have been exhibited weighing as much as a Scotch ox.

784. Though almost every County in England can boa-:t some local
variety or other of this useful animal, obtained from the nai ire stock by crossing

CVUiBEiiLAND SOW.

with some of the foreign kinds, Cumberland and the north-west parts of tho
kingdom have been celebrated for a small breed of white pigs, with a thick,
compact, and well-made body, short in the legs, the head and back well formed, •
cars slouching and a little downwards, and on the whole, a hardy, profitable
animal, and one well disposed to fatten.

^85. There is no variety of this useful Animal that presents such
peculiar features as the species known to us as tho Chinese pig ; and as it is the
general belief that to this animal and the Neapolitan hog we are indebted for
that remarkable improvement which has taken place in the breeds of the English
pig it is necessary to be minute in the description of this, in all respects, singular
animal The Chinese, in the first place, consists of many varieties, and pre-
sents as many forms of body as differences of colour ; the best kind, how-
ever has a beautiful white skin of singular thinness and delicacy ; the hair
too is perfectly white, and thinly set over the body, with here and there a few

THE HOG.

369

bristles. He has a broad snout, short bead, eyes bright and fiery, very small
fine pink ears, wide cheeks, high chine, with a neck of such immense thick-

ness, that when the animal is fat it looks like an elongated carcase, — a mass of
fat, without shape or form, like a feather pillow. The belly is dependent,
and almost trailing on the ground, the legs very short, and the tail so small as
to be little more than a rudiment. It has a ravenous appetite, and will eat
anything that the wonderful assimilating powers of its stomach can digest ;
and to that capability, there seems no limit in the whole range of animal or
vegetable nature. The consequence of this perfect and singularly rapid di-
gestion is an unprecedented proneness to obesity, a process of fattening that,
once commenced, goes on with such rapid development, that, in a short time, it
loses all form, depositing such an amount of fat, that it in fact ceases to have
any refuse part or offal, and, beyond the hair on its back and the callous
extremity of the snout, the whole carcase is eatable.

786. When judiciously fed on Vegetable Diet, and this obese tendency
checked, the flesh of the Chinese pig is extremely delicate and delicious ; but
when left to gorge almost exclusively on animal food, it becomes oily, coarse,
and unpleasant. Perhaps there is 110 other instance in nature where the effect of
rapid and perfect digestion is so well shown as in this animal, which thrives on
everything, and turns to the benefit of its physical economy, food of the most
opposite nature, and of the most unwholesome and offensive character. When
fully fattened, the thin cuticle, that is one of its characteristics, cracks, from
the adipose distension beneath, exposing tho fatty mass, which discharges a
liquid oil from the adjacent tissues. The great fault in this breed is tho
remarkably small quantity of lean laid down, to tho immense proportion of fat.
Some idea of the growth of this species may bo inferred from the fact of their
attaining to 18 stone before two years, and whon further advanced, as much

2 B

370

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

as 40 stone. In its pure state, except for roasters, the Chinese pig is too
disproportionate for the English market ; but when crossed with some of our
lean stock, the breed becomes almost invaluable.

787. The Wild Boar is a much more cleanly and sagacious animal than
the domesticated hog ; he is longer in' the snout, has his ears shorter and his
tusks considerably longer, very frequently measuring as much as 10 inches.

WESTPHALIAN BOAIi.

They are extremely sharp, and are bent in an upward circle. Uulike his
domestic brother, who roots up hero and there, or wherever his fancy takes,
the wild boar ploughs the ground in continuous lines or furrows. The boar,
when selected as the parent of a stock, should have a small head, be deep and
broad in the chest ; the chine should be arched, the ribs and ban-el well
rouuded, with the haunches falling full down nearly to tho hock ; and he
should always be more compact and smaller than the female. The colour of
the wild boar is always of a uniform hue, and generally of an iron grey ;
shading off into a black. The hair of tho boar is of considerable length,
especially about the head and mane ; he stands, in general, from 20 to 30
inches in height at the shoulders, though instances have occurred where he
has reached 42 inches. The young are of a pale yellowish tint, irregularly
brindled with light brown. The boar of Germany is a largo and formidable
animal, and the hunting of him, with a small species of mastiff, is still a
national sport. From living almost exclusively on acorns and nuts, his flesh
is held in great esteem, and in Westphalia his legs are made into hams by a
process which, it is said, enhances tho flavour and quality of tho meat in a
remarkable degree.

788. There are two Points to be taken into consideration by all breeders
of pigs — to what ultimate use is the flesh to bo put ) for, if meant to be eaten

THE HOG.

371

fresh, or simply salted, the small breed of pigs is best suited for the purpose ;
if for hams or bacon, the large variety of the animal is necessary. Pigs are
usually weaned between six and eight weeks after birth, after which they are
fed on soft food, such as mashed potatoes in skimmed or butter-milk. The
general period at which the small hogs are killed for the market is from 12 to
16 weeks ; from 4 to 5 months, they are called store pigs, and are turned out
to graze till the animal has acquired its full stature. As soon as this point has
been reached, the pig should be forced to maturity as quickly as possible ; he
should therefore be taken from the fields and farm-yard, and shut up on
boiled potatoes, buttermilk, and peas-meal, after a time to be followed by
grains, oil-cake, wash, barley, and Indian meal ; supplying his sty at the same
time with plenty of water, cinders, and a quantity of salt in every mess of food
presented to him.

789. The Estimated Number of Pigs in Great Britain is supposed to
exceed 20 millions ; and, considering the third of the number as worth £2
apiece, and the remaining two-thirds as of the relative value of 10s. each,
would give a marketable estimate of over £20,000,000 for this animal alone.

790. The best and most humane Mode of Killing all large Hogs is to
strike them down like a bullock, with the pointed end of a poleaxe, on the
forehead, which has the effect of killing the animal at once ; all the butcher
has then to do, is to open the aorta and great arteries, and laying the animal’s
neck over a trough, let out the blood as quickly as possible. The carcase is
then to be scalded, either on a board or by immersion in a tub of very hot
water, and all the hair and dirt rapidly scraped off, till the skin is made per-
fectly white, when it is hung up, opened, and dressed, as it is called, in the
usual way. It is then allowed to cool, a sheet being thrown around the
carcase, to prevent the air from discolouring the newly-cleaned skin. "When
meant for bacon, the hair is singed instead of being scalded off.

791. In the Country, where for ordinary consumption tho pork killed for
sale is usually both larger and fatter than that supplied to the London con-
sumer, it is customary to remove the skin and fat down to the lean, and, salting
that, roast what remains of the joint. Pork goes further, and is consequently
a more economical food than other meats, simply because the texture is closer,
and there is less waste in the cooking, either in roasting or boiling.

792. In fresh Pork, tho leg is tho most economical family joint, and the
loin the richest.

793. Comparatively Speaking, very little difference exists between the
weight of the livo and dead pig, and this, simply becauso there is neither the
head nor tho hido to bo removed. It has been proved that pork loses in cooking
13;, per cent, of its weight. A salted hand weighing 4 lbs. 5oz. lost in tho
cooking 11 oz. ; after cooking, the meat weighing only 3 lbs. 1 oz., and tho

2 B 2

372

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

bone 9 oz. The original cost was 7 \d. a pound ; but by this deduction, the
cost rose to 9d. per pound with the bone, and lO.jd. without it.

794. Pork, to be Preserved, is cured in soveral ways, — either by covering
it with salt, or immersing it in ready-made brine, where it is kept till required ;
or it is only partially salted, and then hung up to dry, when the meat is called
white bacon ; or, after salting, it is hung in wood smoke till the flesh is impreg-
nated with the aroma from the wood. The Wiltshire bacon, which is regarded
as the finest in the kingdom, is prepared by laying the sides of a hog in largo
wooden troughs, and then rubbing into the flesh quantities of powdered bay-
salt, made hot in a frying-pan. This process is repeated for four days ; they
are then left for three weeks, merely turning the flitches every other day.
After that time they are hung up to dry. The hogs usually killed for purposes
of bacon in England average from 18 to 20 stone ; on the other hand, the hogs
killed in the country for farm-house purposes, seldom weigh less than 26 stone.
The legs of boars, hogs, and, in Germany, those of bears, are prepared dif-
ferently, and called hams.

795. The Practice in vogue Formerly in this country was to cut-out the
hams and cure them separately ; then to remove the ribs, which were roasted as
“spare-ribs,” and, curing the remainder of the side, call
it a “gammon of bacon.”

Small pork to cut for table in joints, is cut up, in most
places throughout the kingdom, as represented in the
engraving. The side is divided with nine ribs to the
fore quarter ; and the following is an enumeration of the
joints in the two respective quarters : —

1. The leg.

Hind Quarter

Fore Quarter

5‘
L 6.

The loin.

The spring, or belly.

The hand.

The fore-loin.

The cheek.

The weight of the several joints of a good pork pig of
four stone may be as follows ; viz. : —

The leg S lbs.

The loin and spring . . 7 „

The hand >>

The chine 7 >>

The cheek . . from 2 to 3 ,,

Of a bacon pig, the legs are reserved for curing, and
when cured are called hams : when the meat is sepa-
rated from the shoulder-blade and bones and cured, it is
called bacon. The bones, with part of the meat loft on them, are divided
into spare -rib.", griskins, and chines.

side op a no,

SHOWING THE
SEVERAL JOINTS.

MODERN MODE OF SERVING DISHES-

llECIPES

CHAPTER XVII. •

POKE CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery).

796. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast loin of pork, 1 oz. of
butter, 2 onions, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, i pint of gravy, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar and mustard.

Mode. — Cut the pork into nice-sized cutlets, trim off most of the fat,
and chop the onions. Put the butter into a stewpan, lay in the cut-
lets aud chopped onions, and fry a light brown ; then add the remaining
ingredients, simmer gently for 5 or 7 minutes, and serve.

Time.— 5 to 7 minutes. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, id.
Seasonable from October to March.

Austrian Method of Heeding Pigs— In the Austrian empire there are great
numbers of wild swine, while, among the wandering tribes peopling the interior of Hun-
gary, and spreading over the vast steppes of that country, droves of swine form a great
portion of the wealth of the people, who chiefly live on a coarse bread and wind-dried
bacon.

In German Switzerland, the Tyrol, and other mountainous districts of continental
Europe, though the inhabitants, almost everywhere, as in England, keep one or more
pigs, they are at little or no trouble in feeding them, one or more men being employed
by one or several villages as swine-herds ; who, at a certain hour, every morning, call for
the pig or pigs, and driving them to their feeding-grounds on the mountain-side and in
the wood, take custody of the herd till, on the approach of night, they are collected
into a compact body and driven home for a night’s repose in their several sties.

The amount of intelligence and docility displayed by the pigs in these mountain
regions, is much more cousiderable than “that usually allowed to this animal, and the
manner in which these immense herds of swine are collected, and again distributed,
without an accident or mistake, is a sight both curious and interesting; for it is all done
without the assistance of a dog, or the aid even of the human voice, and solely byr the
crack of the long-lashed and heavily-loaded whip, which the swine-herd carries, and
cracks much after the fashion of the French postilion ; and which, though he frequently
1 cracks, waking a hundred sharp echoes from the woods and rocks, he seldom has to
use correctioually ; the animal soon acquiring a thorough knowledge of the meaning
of each crack ; and once having felt its leaded thong, a lasting remembrance of its power.
At early dawn, the swine-herd takes his stand at the outskirts of the lirst village,
and begins nourishing through the misty air his immensely long lash, keeping a sort oi'
rude time with the crack, crack, crack, crack, crack, crack of his whip. The nearest pigs,
hearing the well-remembered sound, rouse from their straw, and rush from their sties
into the road, followed by all their litters. As soon as a sufficient number are collected,
the drove is set in motion, receiving, right and left, as they advance, fresh numbers ;
whole communities, or solitary individuals, streaming in from all quarters, and taking
their place, without distinction, in the geneail herd; and, as if conscious where their
breakfast lay, without wasting a moment on idle investigation, all eagerly push on to the
mountains. In this manner village after village is collected, (ill the drove not unfre-
quently consists of several thousands. The feeding-ground has, of course, often to
be changed, and the drove have sometimes to be driven many miles, and to a considerable
height up the mountain, before the whip gives the signal for the dispersion of the

374

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

body and the order to feed, when the herdsman proceeds to form himself a shelter, and
look after his own comfort for the rest of the day. As soon as twilight sets in, the whip
is again hoard echoing the signal for muster; and in the same order in which they were
collected, the swine are driven back, each group tailing off to its respective Bty, as the
herd approaches the villages, till the last gruuter, having found his home, the drover
seeks Ills cottage and repose.

PORK CUTLETS OR CHOPS.

797. Ingredients. — Loin of pork, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Cut the cutlets from a delicate loin of pork, bone and trim
them neatly, and cut away the greater portion of the fat. Season them
with pepper ; place the gridiron on the iire ; when quite hot, lay on the
chops and broil them for about £ hour, turning them 3 or 4 times ;
and be particular that they are thoroughly done, but not dry. Dish
them, sprinkle over a little fine salt, and serve plain, or with tomato
sauce, sauce piquante, or pickled gherkins, a few of which should
be laid round the dish as a garnish.

Time. — About £ hour. Average cost, 10<7. per lb. for chops.

Sufficient. — Allow 6 for 4 persons.

Seaso?iable from October to March.

11.

( A nother Way. )

798. Ingredients.— Loin, or fore-loin, of pork, egg and bread crumbs,
salt and pepper to taste ; to every tablespoonful of bread crumbs allow
\ teaspoonful of minced sage ; clarified butter.

Mode.— Cut the cutlets from a loin, or fore-loin, of pork ; trim them
the same as mutton cutlets, and 6crape the top part of the bone.
Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, with
which have been mixed minced sage and a seasoning of pepper and
salt ; drop a little clarified butter on them, and press the crumbs well
down. Put the frying-pan on the fire, put in some lard ; when this is
hot, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a light brown on both sides.
Take them out, put them before the fire to dry the greasy moisture
from them, aud dish them on mashed potatoes. Serve with them any
sauce that may be preferred ; such as tomato sauce, sauce piquante,
sauce llobert, or pickled gherkins.

Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 10 d. per lb. for chops.

Sufficient. — Allow 6 cutlets for 4 persons.

Seasonable from October to March.

ATotc. — Tho remains of roast loin of pork may bo dressed in the same

manner.

PORK.

375

PORK CHEESE (an Excellent Breakfast Disk).

799. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of cold roast pork, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 dessertspoonful of minced parsley, 4 leaves of sage, a very
small bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, a little
nutmeg, 5 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel ; good strong gravy,
sufficient to fill the mould.

Mode— Cut, hut do not chop, the pork into fine pieces, and allow
i lb. of fat to each pound of lean. Season with pepper and salt ; pound
well the spices, and chop finely the parsley, sage, herbs, and lemon-
peel, and mix the whole nicely together. Put it into a mould, fill up
with good strong well-flavoured gravy, and bake rather more than
one hour. When cold, turn it out of the mould. •

Time. — Rather more than 1 hour.

Seasonable from October to March.

ROAST LEG OE PORK.

800. Ingredients. — Leg of pork, a little oil for stuffing. {See
Recipe No. 504.)

Mode.— Choose a small leg of pork, and score the' skin across in
narrow strips, about | inch apart. Cut a slit
in the knuckle, loosen the skin, and fill it
with a sage-and-onion stuffing, made by
Recipe No. 504. Brush the joint over with a
little salad-oil (this makes the crackling
crisper, and a better colour), and put it
down to a bright, clear fire, not too near,
as that would cause the skin to blister. Baste it well, and serve with
a, little gravy made in the dripping-pan, and do not omit to send to
table with it a tureen of well-made apple-sauce. {See No. 363.)

Time. — A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs., about 3 horn’s.

Average cost, 9 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from September to March.

BOAST MG OF FOBK.

English Mode of IIvnting, and Indian Pig-sticking. — The hunting of the wild
boar has been in all times, and in all countries, a pustime of the highest interest and
excitement, and from the age of Nimrod, has only been considered second to the more
dangerous sport of lion-hunting. The buried treasures of Nineveh, restored to us by
Sir. Layard, show us, on their sculptured annals, the kings of Assyria in their royal
pastime of boar-hunting. That the Greeks were passionately attached to this sport, we
know both from history and the romantic fables of the poets. Marc Antony, at one of
his breakfasts with Cleopatra, had eight wild hoars roasted whole ; and though the
Romans do not appear to nave been addicted to hunting, wild-boar fights formed part of
their gladiatorial shows in the amphitheatre. In Prance, Germany, and Rrituin, from
the earliest timo, the boar-hunt formed one of tho most exciting of sports ; but it was
only in this country that the sport was conducted without dogs, — a roul hand-to-hand

37G

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERT.

contest of man and beast ; the hunter, armed only with a boar-spear, a weapon about
lour feet long, the ash staff, guarded by plates of steel, and terminating in a long,
narrow, and very sharp blade : this, with a hunting-knife, or hanger, completed his
offensive arms, 'f hus equipped, the hunter would either encounter his enemy face to face,
confront his desperate charge, as with erect tail, depressed head, and flaming eyes, he
rushed with his foamy tusks full against him, who either sought to pierce his vitals
through his counter, or driving his spear through his chine, transfix his heart ; or failing
those more difficult aims, plunge it into his flank, and, without withdrawing the weapon,
strike his ready hanger into his throat. Rut expert as the hunter might he, it was not
often the formidable brute was so quickly dispatched; for he would sometimes seize the
spear in his powerful teeth, and nip it off like a reed, or, coming full tilt on his enemy,
by his momentum and weight bear him to the earth, rippingup, with a horrid gash, his leg
or side, and before the writhing hunter could draw his knife, the infuriated beast would
plunge his snout in the wound, and rip, with savage teeth, the bowels of his victim.
At other times, he would suddenly swerve from his charge, and doubling on his opponent,
attack the hunter in the rear. From his speed, great weight, and savage disposition, the
wild boar is always a dangerous antagonist, and requires great courage, coolness, and
agility on the part of the hunter. The continental sportsman rides to the chase in a
cavalcade, with music and dogs, — a kind of small hound or mastiff, and leaving all the
honorary part of the contest to them, when the boar is becoming weary, and while beset
by th# dogs, rides up, and drives his lance home in the beast’s back or side. Boar-
hunting has been for some centuries obsolete in England, the animal no longer existing
in a .wild state among us ; but in our Indian empire, and especially in Bengal, the
pastime is pursued by our countrymen with all the daring of the national character ; and
as the animal which inhabits the cane-brakes and jungles is a formidable foe, the sport
is attended with great excitement. The hunters, mounted on small, active horses, and
armed only with long lances, ride, at early daylight, to the skirts of the jungle, and having
sent in their attendants to beat the cover, wait till the tusked monster comes crashing
from among the canes, when chase is immediately given, till he is come up with, and
transfixed by the first weapon. Instead of flight, however, he often turns to bay, and
by more than one dead horse and wounded hunter, shows how formidable he is, and
what those polished tusks, shnrp as pitch-forks, can effect, when the enraged animal
defends his life, '

TO GLAZE HAM.— (See Recipe Wo. 430.)

HASHED PORK.

8ot. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast pork, 2 onions, 1
teaspoonful of Hour, 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves, 1 tablespoon-
ful of vinegar, i pint of gravy, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Chop the onions and fry them of a nice brown, cut the pork
into thin slices, season them with pepper and salt, and add these to
the remaining ingredients. Stew gently for about $ hour, and stfrve
garnished w'it.h sippets of toasted bread.

Time. — i hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 3c?.

Seasonable from October to March.

FRIED RASHERS OF BACON AND POACHED EGGS.

802. Ingredients.— Bacon ; eggs.

Mode— Cut the bacon into thin slices, trim away the rusty parts,
and cut off the rind. Put it into n cold frying-pan, that is to say,
do not place the pan on the fire before the bacon is in it. Turn it 2 or
3 times, and dish it on a very hot dish. Poach the eggs and slip them
on to the bacon without breaking the yolks, and serve quickly.

PORK,

377

Time. — 3 or 4 minutes. Average cost, 10 d. to Is. per pound for the
primest parts.

Sufficient. — Allow 6 eggs for 3 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Fried rashers of bacon, curled, serve as a pretty garnish to many
dishes; and, for small families, answer very well as a substitute for boiled
bacon, to serve with a small dish of poultry, &c.

BROILED RASHERS OE BACON (a Breakfast Dish).

803. Before purchasing bacon, ascertain that it is perfectly free
from rust, which may easily be detected by its yellow colour ; and for
broiling, the streaked part of the thick flank, is generally the most
esteemed. Cut it into thin slices, take off the rind, and broil over a
nice clear fire ; turn it 2 or 3 times, and serve very hot. Should there
be any cold bacon left from the previous day, it answers very well for
breakfast, cut into slices, and broiled or fried.

Time— 3 or 4 minutes.

Average cost, 10 d. to Is. per pound for the primest parts.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — When the bacon is cut very thin, the slices may be curled round and
fastened by means of small skewers, and fried or toasted before the fire.

BOILED BACON.

804. Ingredients.— Bacon ; water.

Mode. — As bacon is frequently excessively salt, let it be soaked in
warm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it ; then pare off
the rusty parts, and scrape the under-side
and rind as clean as possible. Put it into
a saucepan of cold water, let it come gradu-
ally to a boil, and as fast as the scum rises
to the surface of the water, remove it.

Let it simmer very gently until it is thoroughly done; then take it up,
strip off the skin, and sprinkle over the bacon a few bread raspings,
and garnish with tufts of cauliliower or Brussels sprouts. When
served alone, young and tender broad beans or green peas are the
usual accompaniments.

Time— l lb. of bacon, $ hour; 2 lbs., hour.

Average cost, 10 d. to Is. per lb. for the primest parts.

Sufficient.— 2 lbs., when served with poultry or veal, sufficient for
10 persons.

Reasonable at any time.

BOTT/ED BACON.

378

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

TO CUKE BACON IN THE WILTSHIRE WAY.

805. Ingredients.— lj lb. of coarse sugar, H lb. of bay-salt, G oz.
of saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt.

Mode.— Sprinkle each flitch with salt, and let the blood drain off
for 24 hours ; then pound and mix the above ingredients well together
and rub it well into the meat, which should be turned every day for a
month ; then hang if to dry, and afterwards smoke it for 10 days.
Time. — To remain in the pickle 1 month, to be smoked 10 days.
Sufficient. — The above quantity of salt for 1 pig.

How Pigs were forjifruy Pastured and Fp.d. — Though unquestionably far
greater numbers of swine are now kept in England than formerly, every peasant having
one or more of that useful animal, in feudal times immense droves of pigs were kept bv
the franklings and barons; in those days the swine-herds being a regular part of the
domestic service of every feudal household, their duty consisted in daily driving the
herd of swine from the castle-yard, or outlying farm, to the nearest woods, chase, or
forest, where the frankling or vavasour had, either by right or grant, what was called
free warren, or the liberty to feed his hogs off the acorns, beech, and chestnuts that lay-
in such abundance on the earth, and far exceeded the power of the royal or privileged
game to consume. Indeed, it was the license granted the nobles of free warren, espe-
cially for their swine, that kept up the iniquitous forest laws to so late a date, and
covered so large a portion of (he land with such immense tracts of wood and brake, to
the injury of agriculture and the misery of the people. Some idea of the extent to
which swine were grazed in the feudal times, may be formed by observing the number
of pigs still fed in Epping Forest, the Forest of Dean, and the New Forest, in Hamp-
shire, where, for several months of the year, the beech-nuts and acorns yield them so
plentiful a diet. In Germany, where the chestnut is so largely cultivated, the amount of
food shed every autumn is enormous; and consequently the pig, both wild and domestic,
has, for a considerable portion of the year, an unfailing supply of admirable nourish-
ment. Impressed with the value of this fruit for the food of pigs, the Prince Consort
has, with great judgment , of late encouraged the collection of chestnuts in Windsor Park,
and by giving a small reward to old people and children for every bushel collected, has
not only found an occupation for many of the unemployed poor, but, by providing a
gratuitous food for their pig, encouraged a feeling of providence and economy.

FOR CURING BACON, AND KEEPING IT FREE
FROM RUST (Cobbett’s Recipe).

806. The two Sides that remain, and which are called flitches, are to he
cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or flesh
sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost, in a salting-
trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away tho brine ; for, to have
sweet and fine bacon, tho flitches must not be sopping in brine, which gives it
tho sort of vile taste that barrel and sea pork have. Every one knows how
different is the taste of fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state ;
therefore change tho salt often, — once in 4 or 5 days ; let it melt and sink in,
but not lie too long ; twice change the flitches, put that at bottom which was
first on the top : this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the
sopping mode, but without it your bacon will not bo so sweet and fine, nor
keep so well. As for the time required in making your flitches sufficiently salt,
it depends on circumstances. It takes a longer time for a thick than a thin
flitch, and longer in dry than in damp wenthor, or in a dry than in a damp
placo ; but fir tho flitches of n hog of five scoro, in weather not very dry or
damp, about G weeks may do ; nnd as yours is to be fat, which receives little

X'OHK.

379

injury from over-salting, give time enough, for you are to have bacon until
Christmas comes again.

S07. The Place foe Salting should, like a dairy, always be cool, but
well ventilated ; confined air, though cool, will taint meat sooner than the mid-
day sun accompanied by a breeze. With regard to smoking the bacon, two
precautions are necessary : first, to hang the flitches where no rain comes down
upon them ; and next, that the smoke must proceed from wood, not peat, turf,
or coal. As to the time required to smoke a flitch, it depends a good deal
upon whether there be a constant fire beneath ; and whether the fire be large
or small : a month will do, if the fire be pretty constant and rich, as a farm-
house fire usually is ; but over-smoking, or rather too long hanging in the air,
makes the bacon rust ; great attention should therefore be paid to this matter.
The flitch ought not to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it ought
to be perfectly dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor, scatter the
flesh side pretty thickly over with bran, or with some fine sawdust, not of deal
or fir ; rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it : this keeps the smoke
from getting into the little openings, and makes a sort of crust to be dried on,

808. To keep the Bacon sweet and good, and free from hoppers, sift
fine some clean and dry wood ashes. Put some at the bottom of a box or
chest long enough to hold a flitch of bacon ; lay in one flitch, and then put in
more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this with six or eight inches of the
ashes. The place where the box or chest is kept ought to be dry, and should
the ashes become damp, they should be put in the fireplace to dry, and whe*.
cold, put back again. With these precautions, the bacon will be as good at the
end of the year as on the first day.

809. Foe Simple General Rules, these may be safely taken as a guide ;
and those who implicitly follow the directions given, will possess at the expira-
tion of from 6 weeks to 2 months well- flavoured and well-cured bacon.

Hog not Bacon. Anecdote or Loud Bacon. — As Lord Bacon, 011 one occasion,
was about to pass sentence oi death upon a man of the name of Hogg, who had just
been tried for a long career of crime, the prisoner suddenly claimed to be heard in
arrest of judgment, saying, with an expression of arch confidence as he addressed the
bench, “ 1 claim indulgence, my lord, on the pica of relationship; for I am convinced
your lordship will never bo uunatural enough to hang one of your own family.”

“ Indeed,'' replied the judge, with some amazement, “ I was not aware that I had
the honour of your alliance ; perhaps you will be good enough to name the' degree of
our mutual affinity.”

“ 1 am sorry, my lord,” returned tho impudent thief, “ I cannot trace the links of
consanguinity ; but the moral evidence is suiilciently pertinent. My name, my lord, is
H°gg. your lordship’s is Bacon; and all tho world will allow that bacon and hog are
very closely allied.” 0

“ 1 sorry," replied bis lordship, “ I cannot admit the (ruth of your iustance : hog
cannot be bacon till it is hanged; and so, before I can admit your plea, or acknowledge
the lamily compact, Hogg must be hanged to-morrow morning.”

TO BAKE A IIAM.

810. Ingredients. — Ham ; a common crust.

Mode. As a ham for baking should be well soaked, let it remain

380

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

in water for at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim away any rusty
places underneath, and cover it with a common crust, taking care that
this is of sufficient thickness all over to keep the gravy in. Place it in
a moderately-heated oven, and hake for nearly 4 hours. Take off the
crust, and skin, and cover with raspings, the same as for boiled ham,
and garnish the knuckle with a paper frill. This method of cooking
a ham is, by many persons, considered far superior to boiling it, as
it cuts fuller of gravy and has a liner flavour, besides keeping a much
longer time* good.

Time. — A medium-sized ham, 4 hours.

Average cost, from 8 cl. to 10c/. per lb. by the whole ham.

Seasonable all the year.

TO BOIL A HAM.

8 i i . Ingredients.- — Ham, water, glaze or raspings.

Mode. — In choosing a ham, ascertain that it is perfectly sweet, by
running a sharp knife into it, close to the bone ; and if, when the

knife is withdrawn, it has an agreeable
smell, the ham is good ; if, on the con-
trary, the blade has a greasy appear-
ance and offensive smell, the ham is
bad. If it has been long hung, and is
very dry and salt, let it remain in soak
for 24 hours, changing the water fre-
quently. This length of time is only necessary in the case of its being
very hard ; from 8 to 12 hours would be sufficient for a Yorkshire or
Westmoreland ham. Wash it thoroughly clean, and trim away from
the under-side, all the rusty and smoked parts, which would spoil the
appearance. Put it into a boiling-pot, with sufficient cold water to
cover it ; bring it gradually to boil, and as the scum rises, carefully
remove it. Keep it simmering very gently until tender, and be care-
ful that it does not stop boiling, nor boil too quickly. When done,
take it out of the pot, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over it a few fine
bread-raspings, put a frill of cut paper round the knuckle, and serve.
If to be eaten cold, let the ham remain in the water until nearly cold :
by this method the juices are kept in, and it will be found infinitely
superior to one taken out of the water hot ; it should, however, be
borne in mind that the ham must not remain in the saucepan all night.
When the skin is removed, sprinkle over bread-raspings, or, if wanted
particularly nice, glaze it. Place a paper frill round the knuckle,
and garnish with parsley or cut vegetable flowers. (See Coloured
Plate P.)

PORK.

381

Time. — A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours to simmer gently ; 15 lbs.,
5 hours ; a very large one, about 6 hours.

Average cost, from Sd. to 10c?. per lb. by the whole ham.

Seasonable all the year.

HOW TO BOIL A HAM TO GIVE IT AN EXCELLENT

FLAVOUR.

812. Ingredients.— Vinegar and water, 2 heads of celery,- 2 turnips,
3 onions, a large bunch of savoury herbs.

Mode. — Prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe, and let it soak
for a few hours in vinegar and water. Put it on in cold water, and
when it boils, add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer very gently
until tender, take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread-raspings,
and put a paper ruche or frill round the knuckle.

Time. — A ham weighing 10 lbs., 4 hours.

Average cost, 8 d. to 10c?. per lb. by the whole ham.

Seasonable at any time.

How to Silence a Pig.- Anecdote op Chaeles V. — When the empevor Charles V.
was one day walking in the neighbourhood of Vienna, full of pious considerations,
engendered by the thoughts of the Dominican cloister he was about to visit, he was
much annoyed by the noise of a pig, which a country youth was carrying a little way
before him. At length, irritated by the unmitigated noise, “Have you not learned
how to quiet a pig ? " demanded the imperial traveller, tartly.

“ Noa,” replied the ingenuous peasant, ignorant of the quality of his interrogator ; —
“ noa ; and 1 should very much like to know how to do it,” changing the position
of his burthen, and giving his load a surreptitious punch of the ear, which immediately
altered the tone and volume of his complaining.

“ Why, take the pig by the tail,” said the’ emperor, “ and you will see how quiet ho
will become.”

Struck by the novelty of the suggestion, the countryman at once dangled his noisy
companion by the tail, and soon discovered that, under the partial congestion caused by
it j inverted position, the pig had indeed become silent ; when, looking with admiration
on his august adviser, he exclaimed, —

“ Ah, you must have learned the trade much longer than I, for you understaud.it a.
great deal better.”

FRIED HAM AND EGGS (a Breakfast Dish).

813. Ingredients.— Ham ; eggs.

Mode. — Cut the ham into slices, and take care that they are of the
same thickness in every part. Cut off the rind, and if the ham should
be particularly hard and salt, it will be found an improvement to
soak it for about 10 minutes in hot water, and then dry it in a cloth.
Put it into a cold frying-pan, set it over the fire, and turn the slices
3 or 4 times whilst they are cooking. When done, place them
on a dish, which should be kept hot in front of the fire during the
time the eggs are being poached. Poach the eggs, slip them on to the
slices of ham, and serve quickly.

Time.— 7 or 8 minutes to broil the ham.

382

MODERN ITOUKEHOLD COOKERY.

Avar age cost , 8 d. to 10<7. per lb. by tbe whole ham.

Sufficient. — Allow 2 eggs and. a slice of ham to each person.
Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Ham may also bo toasted or broiled ;‘but, with the latter method,
to insure its being well cooked, the firo must be beautifully clear, or it will
have a smoky flavour far from agreeable.

POTTED HAM, tliat will keep Good for some time.

814. Ingredients— To 4 lbs. of lean ham allow 1 lb. of fat, 2 tea-
spoonfuls of pounded mace, £ nutmeg grated, rather more than
£ teaspoon ful of cayenne, clarified lard.

Mode. — Mince the ham, fat and lean together in the above propor-
tion, and pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it with cayenne pepper,
pounded mace, and nutmeg ; put the mixture into a deep baking-dish,
and bake for £ hour ; then press it well into a stone jar, fill up the
jar with clarified lard, cover it closely, and paste over it a piece of
thick paper. If well seasoned, it will keep a long time in winter, and
will be found very convenient for sandwiches, &c.

Time. — £ hour.

Seasonable at any time.

II.

{A nice addition to the Breal-fast or Luncheon table.)

815. Ingredients. — To 2 lbs. of lean ham allow 3 lb. of fat, 1 tea- j
spoonful of pounded mace, £ teaspoonful of pounded allspice, £ nutmeg,
pepper to taste, clarified butter.

Mode. — Cut some slices from the remains of a cold ham, mince them |
small, and to every 2 lbs. of lean, allow the above proportion of fat. j
Pound the ham in a mortar to a fine paste, with the fat, gradually add
the seasoning and spices, and be very particular that all the ingredient;
are well mixed and the spices well pounded. Press the mixture int<
potting-pots, pour over clarified butter, and keep it in a cool place.

Average cost for this quantity, 2s. 6d.

Seasonable at any time.

Importance op Tirr. Boar’s Head, Scottish Feuds, &c. — The boar's head,
.indent times, formed the most important dish on the table, and was invariably the flr.‘ 3
placed on the board upon Christmns-dny, being preceded by a body of servitors,
flourish of trumpets, and other marks of distinction and reverence, and carried into the ha
by the individual of next rank to the lord of the feast. At some of our colleges and im |

regarded in former times, that it passed into a cognizance of some of the noblest fnmili'

dork.

383

in the realm : thus it was not only the crest of the Nevills and Warwicks, 'with their
collateral houses, but it was the cognizance of Richard III., that—

“ Wretched, bloody, and usurping boar.

That spoil’ d your summer fields and fruitful vines,

Swills your warm blood like wash, and makes liis trough
In your embowell'd bosoms,” — /

and whose nature it was supposed to typify; and was universally used as a sign to taverns.
The Boar’s Head in Eastcheap, which, till within the last twenty-five years still stood in
all its primitive quaintness, though removed to make way for the .London-bridge
approaches, will live vividly in the mind of every reader of Shakspeare, as the resort of
the prince of Wales, Poins, and his companions, and the residence of Falstafif and his
coney-catching knaves, Bardolph, Pistol, and Xym ; and whose sign was a boar’s head,
carved in stone over the door, and a smaller one in wood on each side of the doorway.

The traditions and deeds of savage vengeance recorded in connection with this grim
trophy of the chase are numerous in all parts of Europe. But the most remarkable
connected with the subject in this country, were two events that occurred in Scotland,
about the 11th and 15th centuries.

A border family having been dispossessed of their castle and lauds by a more powerful
chief, were reduced for many years to great indigence, the expelled owner only living in
the hope of wreaking a terrible vengeance, which, agreeably to the motto of his house, he
was content to “ bide his time” for. The usurper having invited a large number of his
kindred to a grand hunt in his new domains, and a feast after in the great hall, returned
from the chase, and discovering the feast not spread, vented his wrath in no measured
terms on the heads of the tardy servitors. At length a menial approached, followed by
a line of servants, and placing the boar’s head on the table, the guests rushed forward to
begin the meal; when, to their horror, they discovered, not a boar’s but a bull's head, — a
sign of death. The doors were immediately closed, and the false servants, who were the
adherents of the dispossessed chief, threw off their disguise, and falling on the usurper
and his friends, butchered them and every soul in the castle belonging to the rival faction.

A tribe of caterans, or mountain robbers, in the Western Highlands, having been
greatly persecuted by a powerful chief of the district, waylaid him and his retinue, put
them all to the sword, and cutting off the cliief’s head, repaired to Ids castle, where they
ordered the terrified wife to supply them with food and drink. To appease their savage
humour, the lady gave order lor their entertainment, and on returning to the hall to
see her orders were complied with, discovered, in place of the boar’s head that should
have graced the board, her husband’s bleeding head; the savage caterans, in rude
derision, as a substitute for the apple or lemon usually placed between the jaws, having
thrust a slice of bread in the dead man’s mouth.

FOE. CURIN' G HAMS (Mons. tide’s Kecipe).

816. Ingredients,, — For 2 hams weighing about 16 or 18 lbs. each,
allow 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of common salt, 2 oz. of saltpetre, 1 quart
of good vinegar.

Mode. — As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take the 2
hams and rub them well with common salt, and leave them in a large
pan for 3 days. When the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain the
hams, and throw the brine away. Mix sugar, salt, and saltpetre
together in the above proportion, rub the hams well with these, and
put them into a vessel large enough to hold them, always keeping the
salt over them. Let them remain for 3 days, then pour over them a
quart of good vinegar. Turn them in the brine every day for a month,
then drain them well, and rub them W’ith bran. Have them smoked
over a wood fire, and be particular that the hams are hung as high
up as possible from the fire ; otherwise the fat will melt, and they will
become dry and hard.

3S4

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — To be pickled 1 month ; to be smoked 1 month.

Sufficient for 2 hams of 1 8 lbs. each.

Seasonable from October to March.

The Price or A Sow in Africa.— In one of the native states of Africa, a pig one
day stole a piece of food from a child as it was in the act of conveying the morsel to its
mouth ; upon which the robbed child cried so loud that the mother rushed out of her
hovel to ascertain the cause ; and seeing the purloining pig make oil' munching his booty,
the woman in her -heat struck the grunter so smart a blow, that the surly rascal took it into
his head to go home very much indisposed, aud after a certain time resolved to die, — a
resolution that he accordingly put into practice ; upon which the owner instituted
judicial proceedings before the Star Chamber court, of his tribe, against the husband and
family of the woman whose rash act had led to such results ; and as the pig happened to
be a sow, in the very flower of her age, the prospective loss to the owner in unnumbered
teems of pigs, with the expenses attending so high a tribunal, swelled the damages and
costs to such a sum, that it was found impossible to pay them. And ai, in the barbarous
justice existing among these rude people, every member of a family is equally liable as
tho individual who committed the wrong, the father, mother, children, relatives, — an
entire community, to the number of thirty-two souls, were sold as slaves, aud a fearful
sum of human misery perpetrated, to pay the value of a thieving old sow.

TO SALT TWO HAMS, about 12 or 15 lbs. each.

817. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of treacle, b lb. of saltpetre, 1 lb. of
bay-salt, 2 pounds of common salt.

Mode. — Two days before tbey are put into pickle, rub the hams
well with salt, to draw away all slime and blood. Throw what comes
from them away, and then rub them with treacle, saltpetre, and salt.
Lay them in a deep pan, and let them remain one day; boil the above
proportion of treacle, saltpetre, bay-salt, and common salt for 5 hour,
and pour this pickle boiling hot over the hams : there should be
sufficient of it to cover them. For a day or two rub them well with
it ; afterwards they will only require turning. They ought to remain
in this pickle for 3 weeks or a month, and then be sent to be smoked,
which will take nearly or quite a month to do. An ox-tongue pickled
in this way is most excellent, to be eaten either green or smoked.

'Time. — To remain in the pickle 3 weeks or a month ; to be smoked
about a month.

Seasonable from October to March.

TO CURE SWEET HAMS IN THE WESTMORELAND WAY.

818. Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of common salt, 3 lbs. of coarse sugar,
1 lb. of bay-salt, 3 quarts of strong beer.

Mode. — Before the hams are put into pickle, rub them the preceding
day well witli salt, and drain the brine well from them. But the
above ingredients into a saucepan, and boil for j hour ; pour over the
bams, and let them remain a month in the pickle. Bub and turn
them every day, but do not take them out of the pickling-pan ; and
have them smoked for a month.

Time. — To be pickled 1 month ; to be smoked 1 month.

Seasonable from October to March.

PORK.

385

TO PICKLE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe).

819. Ingredients. — To a ham from 10 to 12 lbs., allow 1 lb. of
coarse sugar, § lb. of salt, 1 oz. of saltpetre, -2 a teacupful of vinegar.

Mode. — Rub the bams well with common salt, and leave them for a
day or two to drain ; then rub well in, the above proportion of sugar,
salt, saltpetre, and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep
them in the pickle 1 month, drain them, and send them to be smoked
over a wood tire for 3 weeks or a month.

Time. — To remain in the pickle 1 month. To be smoked 3 weeks or
1 month.

Sufficient. — The above proportion of pickle sufficient for 1 ham.

Seasonable. — Hams should be pickled from October to March.

Hovel wav of Recoveeing a Stolen Pig. — It ism well-known fact, tliat in Ireland
the pig is, in every respect, a domesticated animal, sharing often both the bed and the
board of the family, and making an outer ring to the domestic circle, as, seated
round the pot of potatoes, they partake of the midday meal called dinner. An Irishman
upon one occasion having lost an interesting member of his household, in the form of a
promising young porker, consulted his priest on the occasion, and having hinted at the
person he suspected of purloining the “ illegant slip of a pig,” he was advised to take no
further notice of the matter, but leave the issue to his spiritual adviser. Next Sunday
his reverence, after mass, came to the front of the altar-rails, and looking very hard at
the supposed culprit, exclaimed, “ Who stole Pat Doolau’s pig ?” To this iuquiry there
was of course no answer; — the priest did not expect there would be any. The following
Sunday the same query was propounded a little stronger — “ Who of you was it, I say,
who stole poor Pat Doolan’s pig?” It now became evident that the culprit was a
hardened sinner; so on the third Sunday, instead of repeating the unsatisfactory
iuquiry, the priest, after, as usual, eyeing the obdurate offender, said, in a tone of pious
' sorrow, “Mike Regan, Mike Regan, you treat me with contempt !” That night, when
the family was all asleep, the latch of the door was noiselessly lifted, and the “illegant
slip of a pig” cautiously slipped into the cabin.

TO SMOKE HAMS AITD FISH AT HOME.

8ao. Take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and fix a place
to put a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked
on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron
pan filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having
turned the tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick,
introduce the iron pan in the opening, and place a piece of red-hot
iron in the pan, cover it witli sawdust, and all will be complete. Let
a large ham remain 40 hours, and keep up a good smoke.

TO CURE BACOH OR HAMS IK THE DEVONSHIRE WAY.

821. Ingredients. — To every 14 lbs. of meat, allow 2 oz. of salt-
petre, 2 oz. of salt prunella, 1 lb. of common salt. For the pickle,
3 gallons of water, 5 lbs. of common salt, 7 lbs. of coarse sugar, 3 lbs.
of bay-salt.

Mode. Weigh the sides, hams, and checks, and to every 14 lbs.
allow the above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella, and common

2 0

386

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

salt. Pound and mix these together, and rub well into the meat;
lay it in a stone trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, and turning it
daily for 2 successive days. At the end of the second day, pour on it
a pickle made as follows Put the above ingredients into a saucepan,
set it on the fire, and stir frequently ; remove all the scum, allow it to boil,
for \ hour, and pour it hot over the meat. . Let' the hams, &c., be well
rubbed and turned daily ; if the meat is small, a fortnight will be
sufficient for the sides and shoulders to remain in the pickle, and the
hams 3 weeks ; if from 30 lbs. and upwards, 3 weeks will be required
for the sides, &c., and from 4 to 5 weeks for the hams. On taking the
pieces out, let them drain for an hour, cover with dry sawdust, and smoke
from a fortnight to 3 weeks. Boil and carefully skim the pickle after
using, and it will keep good, closely corked, for 2 years. When boil-
ing it for use, add about 2 lbs. of common salt, and the same of treacle,
to allow for waste. Tongues are excellent put into this pickle cold,
having been first rubbed well with saltpetre and salt, and allowed to
remain 24 hours, not forgetting to make a deep incision under the
thick part of the tongue, so as to allow the pickle to penetrate more
readily. A fortnight or 3 weeks, according to the size of the tongue,
will be sufficient.

Time. — Small meat to remain in the pickle a fortnight, hams
3 weeks ; to be smoked from a fortnight to 3 weeks.

The following is from Morton’s “ Cyclopaidia of Agriculture,” and will be
found fully worthy of the high character of that publication.

CURING OP HAMS AND BACON.

822. The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laid on a strong
bench or stool, and tho head is separated from the body at the neck, close behind
the ears ; the feet and also the internal fat are removed. The carcass is next
divided into two sides in the following manner : — The ribs are divided about
an inch from the spine on each side, and the spine, with the ends of the ribs
attached, together with the internal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also
tho flesh above it, throughout the whole length of the sidesj arc removed. 1 he
portion of the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge — the breadth of
the interior consisting of the breadth of the spine, and about an inch of the
libs on each side, being diminished to about half an inch at the exterior or
skin along tho back. Tho breast-bone, and also tho first anterior rib, are also
dissected from the sido. Sometimos tho whole of tho ribs arc removed ; but
this, for reasons afterwards to bo noticed, is a very bad practico. "W hen tho
hams are cured soparatoly from tho sides, which is generally tho case, they are
cut out so as to includo tho hock -bone, in a similar manner to the London mode
of cutting a haunch of mutton. Tho carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready
for being salted, which process, in large curing establishments, is generally as

FORK.

3S7

follows. The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of fifty parts
by weight of salt, and one part of saltpetre in powder, and the incised parts of
the ham or flitch, and the inside of the flitch covered with the same. The
salted bacon, in ' pairs of flitches with the insides to each other, is piled one
pair of flitches above another on benches slightly inclined, and furnished with
spouts or troughs to convey the brine to receivers in the floor of the salting-
house, to be afterwards used for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this
state the bacon remains a fortnight, which is sufficient for flitches cut from
hogs of a carcass weight less than 15 stone (14 lbs. to the stone). Flitches of a
larger size, at the expiration of that time, are wiped dry and reversed in then-
place in the pile, having, at the same time, about half the first quantity of fresh,
dry, common salt sprinkled over the inside and incised parts; after which they
remain on the benches for another week. Hams being thicker than flitches,
wall require, when less than 20 lbs. weight, 3 weeks ; and when above that
weight, 4 weeks to remain under the above-described process. The next and
last process in the preparation of bacon and hams, previous to being sent to
market, is drying. This is effected by hanging the flitches and hams for 2 or
3 weeks in a room heated by stoves, or in a smoke-house, in which they are
exposed for the same length of time to the smoke arising from the slow com-
bustion of the sawdust; of oak or other hard wood. The latter mode of com-
pleting the curing process has some advantages over the other, as by it the
meat is subject to the action of creosote, a volatile oil produced by the combus-
tion of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The process also furnishing
a thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes the air not only from the
muscle but also from the fat ; thus effectually preventing the meat from
becoming rusted ; and the principal reasons for condemning the practice of
removing the ribs from the flitches of pork are, that by so doing the meat
becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent in the process of salting, and by being
more opposed to the action of the air, becomes sooner and more extensively
rusted. Notwithstanding its superior efficacy in completing the process of
curing, the flavour which smoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many
persons, and it is therefore by no means the most general mode of drying-
adopted by mercantile curers. A very impure variety of 'pyroligneous acid, or
vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes used, on
account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which it contains, and
also to impart the smoke-flavour ; in which latter object, however, the coarse
flavour of tar is given, rather than that derived from the smoke from combus-
tion of wood. A considerable portion of the bacon and hams salted in Ireland
is exported from that country packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately from
the salting process, without having boen in any degree dried. In the process
of salting above described, pork loses from eight to ten per cont. of its weight,
according to the size and quality of the meat ; and a further diminution of
weight, to the extent of fivo to six por cent., takes placo in drying during the
first fortnight after being taken out of salt ; so that the total loss in weight
occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams in a proper state for markot,
1S not !ess on an av°rage than fifteen per cent, on the weight of the fresh pork!

2 o 2

2S8

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

COj-jEABED PIG’S FACE (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish).

823. Ingredients. 1 pigs face; salt. For brine, 1 gallon of spring
•water, 1 lb. of common salt, § handful of chopped juniper-berries,

6 bruised cloves, 2 bay-leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, basil, sage, \ oz.
of saltpetre. For forcemeat, £ lb. of ham, £ lb. bacon, 1 teaspoonful
of mixed spices, pepper to taste, \ lb. of lard, 1 tablespoonful of minced
parsley, 6 young onions.

Mode— Singe the head carefully, bone it without breaking the skin,
and rub it well with salt. Make the brine by boiling the above ingre-
dients for i hour, and letting it stand to
cool. When cold, pour it over the head,
and let it steep in this for 10 days, turning
and rubbing it often. Then wipe, drain,
and dry it. For the forcemeat, pound the
ham and bacon very finely, and mix with
these the remaining ingredients, taking
care that the whole is thoroughly incorporated. Spread this equally
over the head, roll it tightly in a cloth, and bind it securely with
broad tape. Put it into a saucepan with a few meat trimmings, and
cover it with stock ; let it simmer gently for 4 hours, and be particular
that it does not stop boiling the whole time. When quite tender, take
it up, put it between 2 dishes with a heavy weight on the top, and
when cold, remove the cloth and tape. It should be sent to table
on a napkin, or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with a
ruche at the top.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, from 2 s. to 2s. (id.

Seasonable from October to March.

The Wild and Domestic Hog. — The domestic hog is the descendant of a race long
since banished from this island ; and it is remarkable, that while the tamed animal has been
and is kept under surveillance, the wild type whence this race sprung, has maintained itself
in its ancient freedom, the tierce denizen of the forest, and one of the renowned beasts
of the chase. Whatever doubt may exist as to the true origin of the dog, the horse, the
ox, and others, or as to whether their original race is yet extant or not, these doubts do
not apply to the domestic hog. Its wild source still exists, and is universally recognized :
like the wolf, however, it has been expelled from our island ; but, like that animal, it
still roams through the vast wooded tracts of Europe and Asia.

TO DRESS PIG’S FRY (a Savoury Dish).

824. Ingredients.— I3 lb. of pig’s fry, 2 onions, a few sage-leaves,

lbs. of potatoes, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Put the lean fry at the bottom of a pie-dish, sprinkle over ;
it some minced sage and onion, and a seasoning of pepper and salt ;
slice the potatoes ; put a layer of these on the seasoning, then the fat I
fry, then more seasoning, and a layer of potatoes at the top. hill the 1
dish with boiling water, and bake for 2 hours, or rather longer.

PORK.

339

Time. — Rather more than 2 hours. Average cost, 6d. per lb.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from October to March.

TO MELT LARD.

825. Melt the inner fat of the pig1, by putting it in a stone jar, and
placing this in a saucepan of boiling water, previously stripping oft
the skin. Let it simmer gently over a bright fire, and as it melts, pour
it carefully from the sediment. Put it into small jars or bladders for
use, and keep it in a cool place. The dead or inside fat of the pig,
before it is melted, makes exceedingly light crust, and is particularly
wholesome. It may be preserved a length of time by salting it well,
and occasionally changing the brine. When wanted for use, wash
and wipe it, and it will answer for making into paste as well as
fresh lard.

Average cost, 10 d. per lb.

BOILED LEG OE PORK.

826. Ingredients.— Leg of pork ; salt.

Mode. — For boiling, choose a small, compact, well-filled leg, and rub
it well with salt ; let it remain in pickle for a week or ten days, turning
and rubbing it every day. An hour before dressing it, put it into
cold water for an hour, which improves the colour. If the pork is
purchased ready salted, ascertain how long the meat has been in
pickle, and soak it accordingly. Put it into a boiling-pot, with suffi-
cient cold water to cover it; let it gradually come to a boil, and remove
the scum as it rises. Simmer it very gently until tender, and do
not allow it to boil fast, or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the
middle- of the leg is done. Carrots, turnips, or parsnips may be boiled
with the pork, some of which should be laid round the dish as a garnish,
and a well-made pease-pudding is an indispensable accompaniment.

Time. — A leg of pork weighing 8 lbs., 3 hours after the water boils,
and to be simmered very gently.

Average cost, 9 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable from September to March.

Note. — Tho liquor in which a log of pork has been boiled, makes excellent
pea- soup.

Antiquity op the Hoo. — Tho hog has survived changes which have swept multitudes
ot pachydermatous animals from tho' Surface of our earth. It still presents the same
characteristics, both physical and moral, which tho earliest writers, whether snored or pro-
jane, have luithfully delineated. Although the domestic has been more or less modilied by
Jong culture, yet the wild species remains unaltered, insomuch that the fossil relics may
bo identified with the bones of their existing descendants.

390

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ROAST GRISKIN OR PORK.

827. Ingredients. — Pork ; a little powdered sage.

Mode. — As this joint frequently comes to table bard and dry, particu-
lar care should be taken that it is well basted. Put it down to a bright

SPABE-EIB OB POBK.

lire, and flour it. About 10 minutes before taking it up, sprinkle over
some powdered sage ; make a little gravy in the dripping-pan, strain
it over the meat, and serve with a tureen of apple sauce. This joint
will be done in far less time than when the skin is left on, conse-
quently, should have the greatest attention that it be not dried up.
Time. — Grishin of pork weighing 6 lbs., if hour.

Average cost, 7 d. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from September to March.

Note. — A spare-rib of pork is roasted in the same manner as above, and
would take hour for one weighing about 6 lbs.

LARDING.

828. Ingredients. — Bacon and larding-needle.

Mode. — Bacon for larding should be firm and fat, and ought to be
cured without any saltpetre, as this reddens white meats. Lay it on

a table, the rinds downwards; trim
off any rusty part, and cut it into
slices of an equal thickness. Place
the slices one on the top of ano-
ther, and cut them evenly into nar-
row strips, so arranging it that
every piece of bacon is of the same size. Bacon for fricaudeaux,
poultry, and game, should be about 2 inches in length, and rather
more than one-eighth of an inch in width. If for larding fillets of heel
or loin of veal, the pieces of bacon must be thicker. The following ie-
cipe of Soyer is, we think, very explioit ; and any cook, by following
the directions here given, may be able to lard, if not well, sufficiently

BACON SOB LANDING, AND
LABDING-NEEDLE.

for general use.

“Have the fricandcau trimmed, lay it, lengthwise, upon a clean
napkin across your hand, forming a kind of bridge with your thumb

PORK.

391

at tlie part you are about to commence at ; then with the point of the
larding-needle make three distinct lines across, A inch apart ; run the
needle into the third line, at the further side of the fricandeau, and
bring it out at the first, placing one of the lardoons in it ; draw the
needle through, leaving out \ inch of the bacon at each line , pioceed
thus to the end of the row ; then make another line, -5 inch distant,
stick in another row of lardoons, bringing them out at the second line,
leaving the ends of the bacon out all the same length ; make the
next row again at the same distance, bringing the ends out between
the lardoons of the first row, proceeding in this manner until the whole
surface is larded in chequered rows. Everything else is larded in a
similar way: and, in the case of poultry, hold the breast over a
charcoal fire for one minute, or dip it into boiling water, in order to
make the flesh firm.” '

BOAST LOIN OF POES.

829. Ingredients. — Pork ; a little salt.

Mode. — Score the skin in strips rather more than j inch apart,
and place the joint at a good distance from the fire, on account of the

FOEF LOIN OF PORK. HIND LOIN OF POEK.

crackling, which would harden before the meat would be heated
through, were it placed too near. If very lean, it should be rubbed
over with a little salad oil, and kept well basted all tbe time it is at
the fire. Pork should be very thoroughly cooked, but not dry ; and be
careful never to send it to table the least underdone, as nothing is
more unwholesome and disagreeable than underdressed white meats.
Serve with apple sauce, No. 3G3, and a little gravy made in the
dripping-pan. A stuffing of sage and onion may be made separately,
and baked in a flat dish : this method is better than putting it in the
meat, as many persons have so great an objection to the flavour.

Time— A loin of pork weighing 5 lbs., about 2 hours : allow more
time should it be very fat.

Average cost, 9 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

■ Seasonable from September to March.

Fossn. Remains of the IIoo. — In British strata, the oldest fossil remains of the hog
•which Professor Owen states that ho has examined, wero from fissures in the red crag
(probably miocene) of Newbourno, near Woodbridge, Suffolk. “They wore associated

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

£pO

■with teeth of an extinct ftlis about the size of u leopard, -with those of a bear, and with
remains of a largo eervus. These mammalian remains were found with the ordinary
fossils of the red crag: they bad undergone the same process of trituration, and were
impregnated with the same colouring matter as the associated bones and teeth of fishes
acknowledged to be derived from the regular strata of the red crag. These mammali-
ferous beds have been proved by Mr. Lyell to be older than the fluvio’-marine, or Norwich
crag, in which remains of the mastodon, rhinoceros, and horse have been discovered ;
and still older than the fresh-water pleistocene deposits, from which the remains of the
mammoth, rhinoceros, &c. are obtained in such abundance. I have met," says the
professor, in addition, “with some satisfactory instances of the association of fossil
remains of a species of bog with those of the mammoth, in the newer pliocene fresh-
water formations of England.”

TO DRY PIGS’ CHEEKS.

830. Ingredients. — Salt, % oz. of saltpetre, 2 oz. of bay-salt, 4 oz. of
coarse sugar.

Mode. — Cut out the snout, remove the brains, and split the head,
taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape ; rub it well
with salt ; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the fol-
lowing day; cover the head with saltpetre, bay-salt, and coarse sugar,
in the above proportion, adding a little common salt. Let the head
be often turned, and when it has been in the pickle for 10 days, smoke
it for a week or rather longer.

Time. — To remain in the pickle 10 days ; to be smoked 1 week.

Seasonable. — Should be made from September to March.

Note. — A pig’s cheek, or Bath chap, will take about 2 hours after the water
boils.

PIG’S LIVER (a Savoury and Economical Dish).

831. Ingredients. — The liver and lights of a pig, 6 or 7 slices of
bacon, potatoes, 1 large bunch of parsley, 2 onions, 2 sage-leaves,
pepper and salt to taste, a little broth or water.

Mode. — Slice the liver and lights, and wash these perfectly clean,
and parboil the potatoes ; mince the parsley and sage, and chop tire
onion rather small. Put the meat, potatoes, and bacon into a deep
tin dish, in alternate layers, with a sprinkling of the herbs, and a
seasoning of pepper and salt between each ; pour on a little water or
broth, and bake in a moderately-heated oven for 2 hour's.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from September to March.

PIG’S PETTITOES.

83-2. Ingredients. — A thin slice of bacon, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace,
6 peppercorns, 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme, 1 pint of gravy, pepper and salt
to taste, thickening of butter and flour.

TORE.

SOI

Mode. — Put the liver, heart, and pettitoes into a stewpan with the
bacon, mace, peppercorns, thyme, onion, and gravy, and simmer these
gently for 4 hour ; then take out the heart and liver, and mince
them very fine. Keep stewing the feet until quite tender, which will
be in from 20 minutes to i hour, reckoning from the time that they
boiled up first ; then put back the minced liver, thicken the gravy
with a little butter and flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer
over a gentle fire for 5 minutes, occasionally stirring the contents.
Dish the mince, split the feet, and arrange them round alternately
with sippets of toasted bread, and pour the gravy in the middle.

Time. — Altogether 40 minutes.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from September to March.

TO PICKLE POBK.

833. Ingredients. — | lb. of saltpetre ; salt.

Mode— As pork does not keep long without being salted, cut it
into pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold. Rub the
pieces of pork well with salt, and put them into a pan with a sprinkling
of it between each piece : as it melts on the top, strew on more. Lay a
coarse cloth over the pan, a board over that, and a weight on the
board, to keep the pork down in the brine. If excluded from the air,
it will continue good for nearly 2 years.

Average cost, lOd. per lb. for the prime parts.

Seasonable. — The best time for pickling meat is late in the autumn.

The Universality op the Hog. — A singular circumstance in the domestic
history of the hog, is the extent of its distribution over the surface of the earth ; being
found even in insulated places, where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous, and where the
wild species is entirely unknown. The South-Sea islands, lor example, were found on
their discovery to be well stocked with a small black hog ; and the traditionary belief of
the people was that these animals were coeval with the origin of themselves. Yet they
possessed no knowledge of the wild boar, or any other auiinal of the hog kind, from
which (he domestic breed might be supposed to be derived. In these islands the hog is
the principal quadruped, and the fruit of the bread-tree is its principal food, although it
is also fed with yams, eddoes, and other vegetables. This nutritious diet, which it has
in great abundance, is, according to Foster, the reason of its flesh being so delicious, so
full of juice, and so rich in fat, which is not less delicate to the taste than the finest
butter.

TO BOIL PICKLED PORK.

834. Ingredients. — Pork ; water.

Mode. — Should the pork be very salt, let it remain iu water about
2 hours before it is dressed ; put it into a saucepan with sufficient
cold water to cover it, let it gradually come to a boil, then gently
simmer until quite tender. Allow ample time for it to cook, as nothing
is more disagreeable than underdone pork, and when boiled fast, the
meat becomes hard. This is sometimes served with boiled poultry

391

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERT.

and roast Veal, instead of bacon : when tonder, and not over salt, it
will be found equally good.-

Time. — A piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lbs., 1 j hour ; 4 lbs.,
rather more than 2 hours.

Average cost, 10 d. per lb. for the primest parts.

Seasonable at any time.

The Antiquity of the Hog. — By what nation anil in what period the hog was
reclaimed, is involved in the deepest obscurity. So far back as we have any records of
history, we find notices of this animal, and of its flesh being used as the food of inau.
By some nations, however, its flesh was denounced as unclean, and therefore prohibited
to be used, whilst by others it was esteemed as a great delicacy. By the Mosaic law it
was forbidden to be eaten by the Jews, and the Mahometans hold it in utter abhor-
rence. Dr. ICitto, however, says that there does not appear to bo any reason in the law
of Moses why the hog should be held in such peculiar abomination. There seems
nothing to have prevented the Jews, if they had been so inclined, to rear pigs for sale,
or for the use of the land. In the Talmud there are some indications that thiE was
actually done; and it was, probably, for such purposes that the herds of swine mentioned
in the New Testament were kept, although it is usual to consider that they were kept by
the foreign settlers in the land. Indeed, the story which accounts for the peculiar
aversion of the Hebrews to the hog, assumes that it did not originate until about 130
years before Christ, and that, previously, s'ome Jews were in the habit of rearing hogs
for the purposes indicated.

PORK PIES (Warwickshire Recipe).

835. Ingredients. — For the crust, 5 lbs. of lard to 14 lbs. of flour,
milk, and water. For filling the pies, to every 3 lbs. of meat allow
1 oz. of salt, 2 5 oz. of pepper, a small quantity of cayenne, 1 pint of
water.

Mode. — Rub into the flour a portion of the lard ; the remainder put
with sufficient milk and water to mix the crust, and boil this gently -
for i hour. Pour it boiling on the flour, and knead and beat it till
perfectly smooth. Now raise the crust in either a round or oval form,
cut up the pork into pieces the size of a nut, season it in the above
proportion, and press it compactly into the pie, in alternate layers of
fat and lean, and pour in a small quantity of water ; lay on the lid,
cut the edges smoothly round, and pinch them together. Bake in a
brick oven, which should be slow, as the meat is very solid. Very
frequently, the inexperienced cook finds much difficulty in raising the i
crust. She should bear in mind that it must not be allowed to get ,
cold, or it will fall immediately : to prevent this, the operation should
be performed as near the fire as possible. As considerable dexterity j
and expertness are necessary to raise the crust with the hand only, j
a glass bottle or small jar may be placed in the middle of the paste, I
and the crust moulded on this ; but be particular that it is kept warm
the whole time.

Sufficient. — The proportions for 1 pic are 1 lb. of flour and 3 lbs. of
meat.

Seasonable from September to March.

PORK.

395

The Flesh of Swine in Hot Climates. — It is observed by M. Sonini, that the flesh
of swine, in hot climates, is considered unwholesome, and therefore may account for
its proscription by the legislators and priests of the East. In Egypt, Syria, and even
the southern parts of Greece, although both white and delicate, it is so flabby and
surcharged with fat, that it disagrees with the strongest stomachs. Abstinence from it
in general was, therefore, indispensable to health under the burning suns of Egypt and
Arabia. The Egyptians were permitted to eat it only once a year,— on the feast of the
moon ; and then they sacrificed a number of these animals to that planet. At other
seasons, should any one even touch a hog, he was obliged immediately to plunge into
the river Nile, as he stood, with his clothes on, in order to purify himself’ from the
supposed contamination he had contracted by the touch.

LITTLE RAISED PORK PIES.

836. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, i lb. of butter, i lb. of mutton
suet, salt and white pepper to taste, 4 lbs. of the neck of pork, 1
dessertspoonful of powdered sage.

Mode.— Well dry the flour, mince the suet, and put these with the
butter into a saucepan, to be made hot, and add a little salt. When
melted, mis it up into a stiff paste, and put it before the fire with a
cloth over it until ready to make up ; chop the pork into small pieces,
season it with white pepper, salt, and powdered sage ; divide the paste
into rather small pieces, raise it in a round or oval form, fill with the
meat, and bake in a brick oven. These pies will require a fiercer
oven than those in the preceding recipe, as they are made so much
_ smaller, and consequently do not require so soaking a heat.

Time. — If made small, about li§ hour.

Seasonable from September to March.

Swineherds of Antiquity.' — From the prejudice against the hog among the ancients,
those who tended them formed an isolated class, and were esteemed as the outcasts of
society. However much the flesh of the animal was esteemed by the Greeks and Romans,
yet the swineherd is not mentioned by either the classic writers or the poets who, in
ancient Greece and Rome, painted rural life. We have no descriptions of gods or heroes
descending to the occupation of keeping swine. The swineherd is never introduced into
the idyls of Theocritus, nor has Virgil admitted him into his eclogues. The Eumoeus
of Homer is the only exception that we have of a swineherd meeting with favour in the
eyes of a poet of antiquity. This may be accounted for, on tho supposition that the
prejudices of the Egyptians relative to this class of men, extended to both Greece and
Ltaly, and imparted a bias to popular opinion.

TO MAKE SAUSAGES.

(Author's Oxford Recipe.)

837- Ingredients.— 1 lb. of pork, fat and lean, without skin or
gristle ; 1 lb. of lean veal, 1 lb. of beef suet, { lb. of bread crumbs,
the rind of £ lemon, 1 small nutmeg, G sage-leaves, 1 teaspoonful of
pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 4 teaspoonful of savory, | teaspoonful
of marjoram.

Mode.— Chop the pork, veal, and suet finely together, add the bread
crumbs, lemon-peel (which should be well minced), and a small
nutmeg grated. Wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely ; add these

396

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

with the remaining ingredients to the sausage-meat, and when
thoroughly mixed, either put the meat into skins, or, when wanted for
table, form it into little cakes, which should be floured, aud fried.

Average cost, for this quantity, 2s. 6c/.

Sufficient for about 30 moderate-sized sausages.

Seasonable from October to March.

The Hog in England. — From time immemorial, in England, this animal has been
esteemed as of the highest importance. In the Anglo-Saxon period, vast herds of swine
were tended by men, who watched over their safety, and who collected them under
shelter at night. At that time, the ilesh of the animal was the staple article of con-
sumption in every family, and a large portion of the wealth of the rich freemen of the
country consisted of these animals. Hence it was common to make bequests of swine,
with lands for their support ; and to these were attached rights and privileges in con-
nection with their feeding, aud the extent of woodland to be occupied by a given
number was granted in accordance with established rules. This is proved by an ancient
Saxon grant, quoted by Sharon Turner, in his “ History of the Anglo-Saxons,” where the
right of pasturage is conveyed in a deed by the following words : — “ I give food for seventy
swine in that woody allotment which the countrymen call Wolferdimegh.”

FRIED SAUSAGES.

838. Ingredients.— Sausages ; a small piece of butter.

Mode. — Prick the sausages with a fork (this prevents them from
bursting), and put them into a frying-pan with a small piece'of butter.

Keep moving the pan about, and turn
the sausages 3 or 4 times. In from 10 to 12
minutes they will be sufficiently cooked,
unless they are very large, when a little
more time should be allowed for them.
Dish them with or without a piece of toast under them, and serve very
hot. In some counties, sausages are boiled and served on toast.
They should be plunged into boiling water, and simmered for about
10 or 12 minutes.

Time. — 10 to 12 minutes. Average cost, 10 d. per lb.

Seasonable. — Good from September to March.

Note. — Sometimes, in close warm weather, sausages very soon turn sour ; to
prevent this, put them in the oven for a few minutes with a small piece of
butter to keep thorn moist. When wanted for table, they will not require
so long frying as uncooked sausages.

The Saxon Swineherd. — The men employed in herding swine during the Anglo-
Saxon period of our history were, in general, thralls or born slaves of the soil, who w ere
assisted by powerful dogs, capable even of singly contending with the wolf until his
master came with his spear to the rescue. In the “ Ivaulioe " of Sir Walter Scott, we
have an admirable picture, in the character of Gurth, an Anglo-Saxon swineherd, as
we ulso have of his master, a largo landed proprietor, a great portion of whose wealth
consisted of swine, and whoso rude but plentiful board was liberally supplied with
the flesh.

SAUSAGE-MEAT CAKES.

839. Ingredients. — To every lb. of loan pork, add ‘l lb. of fat bacon,

ror.K.

387

i oz. of salt, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, \ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,
1 teaspoonful of minced parsley.

Mode. — Remove from the pork all skin, gristle, and bone, and chop
it finely with the hacon ; add the remaining ingredients, and carefully
mix altogether. Pound it well in a mortar, make it into convenient-
sized cakes, flour these, and fry them a nice brown for about 10
minutes. This is a very simple method of making sausage-meat,
and on trial will prove very good, its great recommendation being,
that it is so easily made.

Time. — 10 minutes.

Seasonable from September to March.

TO SCALD A SUCKING-PIG.

840. Put the pig into cold water directly it is killed ; let it remain
for a few minutes, then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for
2 minutes. Take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as
quickly as possible. When the skin looks clean, make a slit down the
belly, take out the entrails, well clean the nostrils and ears, wash the
pig in cold water, and wipe it thoroughly dry. Take off the feet at
the first joint, and loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over.
If not to be dressed immediately, fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from
the air.

The Learned Pig. — That the pig is capable of education, is a fact long known to the
world ; and though, like the ass, naturally stubborn and obstinate, that he is equally
amenable with other animals to caresses and kindness, has been shown from very remote
time ; the best modern evidence of his docility, however, is the instance of the learned
pig, first exhibited about a century since, but which has been continued down to our
own time by repeated instances of an animal who will put together all the letters or
iigures that compose the day, month, hour, and date of the exhibition, besides many
other unquestioned evidences of memory. The instance already given of breaking a sow
into a pointer, till she became more stanch even than the dog itself, though surprising, is
far less wonderful than that evidence of education where so generally obtuse an animal
may be taught not only to spell, but couple figures and give dates correctly.

ROAST SUCKING-PIG.

841. Ingredients. — Pig, 6 oz. of bread crumbs, 16 sage-leaves, /
pepper and salt to taste, a piece of butter the size of an egg, salad oil
or butter to baste with, about 4 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice.

Mode. — A sucking-pig, to be eaten in perfection, should not bo more
than three weeks old, and should be dressed the same day that it is
killed. After preparing the pig for cooking, as in the preceding-
recipe, stuff it with’ finely-grated bread crumbs, minced sage, pepper,
salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg, all of which should bo
well mixed together, and put into the body of the pig. Sew up the

39S

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

slit neatly, and truss the legs back, to allow the inside to be‘roasted,
and the under part to be crisp. Put the pig down to a bright clear
fire, not too near, and let it lay till thoroughly dry ; then have ready

some butter tied up in a piece of thin
cloth, and rub the pig with this in
every part. Keep it well rubbed
with the butter the whole of the time
it is roasting, and do not allow the
crackling to become blistered or
burnt. When half-done, hang a
pig-iron before the middle part (if
this is not obtainable, use a fiat iron), to prevent its being scorched
and dried up before the ends are done. Before it is taken from the fire,
cut off the head, and part that and the body down the middle. Chop
the brains and mix them with the stuffing ; add 5 pint of good gravy,
a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and the gravy that flowed from the
pig ; put a little of this on the dish with the pig, and the remainder
send to table in a tureen. Place the pig back to back in the dish, with
one half of the head on each side, and one of the ears at each end, and
send it to table as hot as possible. Instead of butter, many cooks take
salad oil for basting, which makes the crackling crisp ; and as this is
one of the principal things to be considered, perhaps it is desirable to
use it ; but be particular that it is very pure, or it will impart an un-
pleasant flavour to the meat. The brains and stuffing may be stirred
into a tureen of melted butter instead of gravy, when the latter is not
liked. Apple sauce and the old-fashioned currant sauce are not yet
quite obsolete as an accompaniment to roast pig.

Time. — 1) to 2 hours for a small pig. Average cost, 5s. to 6s.

Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons.

Seasonable from September to February.

How Roast Pig was discovered. — Charles Lamb, who, in the early part of this
century, delighted the reading public by his quaint prose sketches, written under the
title of “ Essays of Elia,” has, in his own quiet humorous way, devoted ong paper to
the subject of Roast Pig, and more especially to that luxurious and toothsome dainty
known as “ crackling; ” and shows, in a manner peculiarly his own, how crackling Jirst
came into the world.

According to this erudite authority, man in the golden age, or at all events the primitive
age, eat his pork and bacon raw, as, indeed, lie did his beet and mutton ; unless, as
Jlndibras tells us, he was an epicure, when lie used to make a saddle of his saddle ol
mutton, and after spreading it on his horse’s back, and riding on it for a few hours till
thoroughly warmed, he sat down to the luxury of a dish cooked, to a turn. At the epoch
of the story, however, a citizen of some Scythian community had the misfortune to liavo
his hut, or that portion of it containing his live stock of pigs, burnt down. In going
over the debris on the following day, and picking out all the available salvage, the
proprietor touched something unusually or unexpectedly hot, which caused him to shake
his hand with groat energy, and clap the tips of his suflering lingers to his mouth. 1 ho
act was simple and natural, but the result was wonderful. He rolled his eyes in ecstatic
pleasure, his frame distended, and, conscious of a celestial odour, his nostrils widened,
and, while drawing in deep inspirations of the ravishing perfume, ho sucked his lingers
with a gusto he had never, in his most hungry moments, conceived. Clearing away tho

PORK CARVING.

399

rubbish from beneath him, he at last brought to view the carcase of one of his pigs,
roasted to death. Stooping down to examine this curious object, and touching its body,
a fragment of the burnt skin was detached, which, with a sort of superstitious dread, lie
at length, and in a spirit of philosophical inquiry, put into his mouth. Ye gods ! the
felicity he then enjoyed, no pen can chronicle ! Then it was that he — the world — first
tasted crackling. Like a miser with his gold, the Scythian hid his treasure from the
prying eyes of the world, and feasted, in secret, more sumptuously than the gods. When
he had eaten up all his pig, the poor man fell into a melancholy ; he refused the most
tempting steak, though cooked on the horse’s back, and turned every half-hour after
his own favourite recipe ; he fell, in fact, from his appetite, and was reduced to a shadow,
till, unable longer to endure the torments of memory he hourly suffered, he rose one
night and secretly set fire to his hut, and once more was restored to flesh and manhood.
Finding it impossible to live in future without roast-pig, he set fire to his house every
time his larder became empty; till at last his neighbours, scandalized by the frequency of
these incendiary acts, brought his conduct before the supreme council of the nation. To
avert the penalty that awaited him, he brought his judges to the smouldering ruins, and
discovering the secret, invited them to eat ; which having done, with tears of gratitude,
the august Bynod embraced him, and, with an overflowing feeling of ecstasy, dedicated
a statue to the memory of the man who first instituted roast pork.

rOKK CARVING.

SUCKING-PIG.

842. A sucking-pig seems, at first sight, rather an elaborate dish, or
rather animal, to carve ; hut by carefully mastering the details of the
business, every difficulty will vanish ;
and if a partial failure he at first
made, yet all embarrassment will
quickly disappear on a second trial.

A sucking-pig is usually sent to table
in the manner shown in the engraving
(and also in coloured plate S), and
the first point to he attended to is to
separate the shoulder from the carcase, by carrying the knife quickly

and neatly round the circular line, as shown by the figures 1, 2, 3 ; the

shoulder will then easily come away. The next step is to take off the
leg ; and this is done in the same way, by cutting round this joint in
the direction shown by the figures 1, 2, 3, in the same way as the
shoulder-. The ribs then stand fairly open to the knife, which should
be carried down in the direction of the line 4 to 5 ; and two or three
helpings will dispose of these. The other half of the pig is served, of
course, in the same manner. Different parts of the pig are variously
esteemed ; some preferring the flesh of the neck ; others, the ribs -
and others, again, the shoulders. The truth is, the whole of a
sucking-pig is delicious, delicate eating ; but, in carving it, the host
should consult the various tastes and fancies of his guests, keepin"-
the larger joints, generally, for the gentlemen of the party.

400

MODERX HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

HAM.

843. In cutting a ham, the carver must be guided according as he
desires to practise economy, or have, at once, tine slices out of the prime

part. Under the first supposition, he will
commence at the knuckle end, and cut off
thin slices towards the thick part of the
ham. To reach the choicer portion, the
knife, which must he very sharp and thin,
should be carried quite down to the bone, in
the direction of the line 1 to 2. The slices
should be thin and even, and always cut down to the bone. There
are some who like to carve a ham by cutting a hole at the top,
and then slicing pieces off inside the hole, gradually enlarging the
circle ; but we think this a plan not to be recommended. A ham,
when hot, is usually sent to table with a paper ruffle round the
knuckle ; when cold, it is served in the manner shown by coloured
plate P. '

LEG OE POKE.

844. This joint, which is such a favourite one with many people, is
easy to carve. The knife should be carried sharply down to the
bone, clean through the crackling, in the
direction of the line 1 to 2. Sage and onion
and apple sauce are usually sent to table
with this dish, — sometimes the leg of pork
is stuffed, — and the guests should be asked
if they will have either or both. A frequent
plan, and we think: a good one, is now pur-
sued, of sending sage and onion to table separately from the joint, as
it is not everybody to whom the flavour of this stuffiug is agreeable.

Aotfi.— The other dishes of pork do not call for any special remarks as to
their carving or helping.

CHAPTER XVIII.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CALF.

845. Ant Remarks made on the Calf or the Lamb must naturally
bo in a measure supplementary to the more copious observations made on the
parent stock of either. As the calf, at least as far as it is identified with veal,
is destined to die young,— to be, indeed, cut off in its comparative infancy, — it
may, at first sight, appear of little or no consequence to inquire to what
particular variety, or breed of the general stock, his sire or dam may belong.
The great art, however, in the modern science of husbandry has been to obtain
an animal that shall not only have the utmost beauty of form of which the
species is capable, but, at the same time, a constitution free from all taint, a
frame that shall rapidly attain bulk and stature, and a disposition so kindly
that every quantum of food it takes shall, without drawback or procrastination,
be eliminated into fat and muscle. The breed, then, is of very considerable
consequence in determining, not only the quality of the meat to the consumer,
but .its commercial value to tho breeder and butcher.

846. Under the Artificial System adopted in tho rearing of domestic
cattle, and stock in general, to gratify tho arbitrary mandates of luxury and
fashion, wo can have veal, like lamb, at all seasons in the market, though tho
usual timo in the metropolis for veal to make its appearance is about the
beginning of February. **

2 D

402

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

847. The Cow goes with Young for Nine Months, and the affection
and solicitude she evinces for hor offspring is more human in its tenderness
and intensity than is displayed by any other animal ; and her distress when
she hears its bleating, and is not allowed to reach it with her distended udders,
is often painful to witness, and when the calf has died, or been accidentally
killed, her grief frequently makes her refuse- to give down her milk. At such
times, the breeder has adopted the expedient of flaying the dead carcase, and,
distending the skin with hay, lays the effigy before her, and then taking advan-
tage of her solicitude, milks her while she Is caressing the skin with her
tongue.

848. In a State of Nature, the cow, like the deer, hides her young in
the tall ferns and brakes, and the most secret places ; and only at stated times,
twice or thrice a day, quits the herd, and, hastening to the secret cover,
gives suck to her calf, and with the same circumspection returns to the com-
munity.

849. In some Countries, to please the epicurean taste of vitiated appe-
tites, it is the custom to kill the calf for food almost immediately after birth, and
any accident that forestalls that event, is considered to enhance its value. We
are happy to' say, however, that in this country, as far as England and Scot-
land are concerned, the taste for very young veal has entirely gone out, and
“Staggering Bob,” as the poor little animal was called in the language of the
shambles, is no longer to be met with in such a place.

S50. The W eaning of Calves is a process that requires a great amount
of care and judgment ; for though they are in reality not weaned till between
the eighth and the twelfth week, the process of rearing them by hand com-
mences in fact from the birth, the calf never being allowed to suck its dam. "As
the rearing of calves for the market is a very important and lucrative business,
the breeder generally arranges his stock so that ten or a dozen of his cows
shall calve about the same time ; and then, by setting aside one or two, to find
food for the entire family, gets tho remaining eight or ten with 'their full
fountains of milk, to carry on the operations of his dairy. Some people have
an idea that skimmed milk, if given in sufficient quantity, is good enough for
tho weaning period of calf-feeding ; but this is a very serious mistake, for tho
cream, of which it has been deprived, contained nearly all the oleaginous prin-
ciples, and the azote or nitrogen, on which tho vivifying properties of that
fluid depends. Indeed, so remarkably correct has this fact proved to be, that
a calf reared on ono part of new milk mixed with five of water, will thrive and
look well ; whilo another, treated with unlimited skimmed milk, will be poor,
thin, and miserable.

851. It is sometimes a matter of considerable trouble to induce the
blundering calf — whose instinct only toachos him to suck, and that he will do
at anything, andwfith anything — to acquire tho knowledge of imbibition, that

THE CALF.

403

for the first few days it is often necessary to fill a bottle with milk, and, opening
his mouth, pom- the contents down his throat. The manner, however, by
which he is finally educated into the mystery of suction, is by putting his
allowance of milk into a large wooden bowl ; the nurse then puts her hand into
the milk, and, by bending her fingers upwards, makes a rude teat for the calf
to grasp in his lips, when the vacuum caused by his suction of the fingers,
causes the milk to rise along them into his mouth. In this manner one by
one the whole family are to be fed three times a day ; care being taken, that
new-born calves are not, at first, fed on milk from a cow who has some days
calved.

852. As the Calf progresses towards his tenth week, his diet requires
to be increased in quantity and quality ; for these objects, his milk can be
thickened with flour or meal, and spiall pieces of softened oil-cake are to be
slipped into his mouth after sucking, that they may dissolve there, till he
. grows familiar with, and to like the taste, when it may be softened and scraped
down into his milk-and-water. After a time, sliced turnips softened by steam
are to be given to him in tolerable quantities ; then succulent grasses ; and
finally, hay may be added to the others. Some farmers, desirous of rendering
their calves fat for the butcher in as short a time as possible, forget both the
natural weakness of the digestive powers, and the contracted volume of the
stomach, and allow the animals either to suck ad libitum, or give them, if
brought up at the pail or by hand, a larger quantity of milk than they can
digest. The idea of overloading the stomach flever suggests itself to their minds.
They suppose that the more food the young creature consumes, the sooner it
will be fat, and they allow it no exercise whatever, for fear it should denude
its very bones of then- flesh. Under such circumstances, the stomach soon
becomes deranged ; its functions are no longer capable of acting ; the milk,
subjected to the acid of the stomach, coagulates, and forms a hardened
mass of curd, when the muscles become affected with spasms, and death
frequently ensues.

853. There was no species of Slaughtering practised in this country
so inhuman and disgraceful as that, till very lately, employed in killing this
poor animal ; when, under the plea of making the flesh white, the calf was bled
day by day, till, when the final hour came, the animal was unable to stand.
This inhumanity is, we believe, now everywhere abolished, and the calf is at
once killed, and with the least amount of pain ; a shai-p-pointed knife is ran
through the neck, severing all the large veins and arteries up to the vertebra:.
The skin is then taken off to the knee, which is disjointed, and to the head,
which is removed ; it is then reflected backwards, and the carcase having been
opened and dressed, is kept apart by stretchers, and the thin mombrane, the
caul, extended over tho organs left in the carcase, as tho kidneys and sweet-
bread ; some melted fat is then scattered suddenly ovor tho whole interior,
giving that whito and frostod appearance to the meat, that is thought to add
to its beauty ; tho whole is then hung up to cool anti harden.

2 D 2

404

1IODEKN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

854. The manner of Cutting ur Veal for the English market is to

divide the carcase into four quarters, with
eleven ribs to each fore quarter ; which are
again subdivided into joints as exemplified on
the cut.

Hind quarter: —

1. The loin.

2. The chump, consisting of the rump
and hock-bone.

3. The fillet.

4. The hock, or hind knuckle.

F ore quarter : —

5. The shoulder.

6. Tl\e neck.

7. The breast.

8. The fore knuckle.

855. The several farts of a moderately-
sized well-fed Calf, about eight weeks old,
are nearly of the following weights : — loin and
chump 181bs., fillet 12.j lbs., hind knuckle 51, lbs.,
shoulder 11 lbs., neck 11 lbs., breast 9 lbs., and
fore knuckle 5 lbs. ; making a total of 144 lbs.
weight. The London mode of cutting the car-
case is considered better than that pursued in
Edinburgh, as giving three roasting joints, and
side or a calf, showing 0nc boiling, in each quarter; besides the pieces
run seiehal joints. being more equal!}' divided, as regards flesh, and

the handsomer appearance they make on the table.

RECIPES

"•0*-

CHAPTER XIX.

BAKED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

856. Ingredients. — -J- lb. of cold roast veal, a few slices of bacon,
1 pint of bread crumbs, | pint of good veal gravy, 1 teaspoonful of
minced lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste,
i eggs.

Mode. — Mince finely the veal and bacon ; add the bread crumbs,
gravy, and seasoning, and stir these ingredients well together. Beat
up the eggs thoroughly ; add these, mix the whole well together, put
into a dish, and bake from f to 1 hour. When liked, a little good
gravy may be served in a tureen as an accompaniment.

Time. — From f to 1 hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 0>d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

BOAST B BEAST OP VEAL.

857. Ingredients.— Yeal; a little flour.

Mode. — Wash the veal, well wipe it, and dredge it with flour ; put
it down to a bright fire, not too near,
as it should not be scorched. Baste
it plentifully until done ; dish it, pour
over the meat some good melted but-
ter, and send to table with it a piece
of boiled bacon and a cut lemon.

Time. — From 1 £ to 2 hours.

Average cost, 8 id. per lb. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

40G

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

STEWED BREAST OP VEAL AND PEAS.

858. Ingredients.— Breast of veal, 2 oz. of butter, a bunch of
savoury herbs, including parsley ; 2 blades of pounded mace, 2 cloves,
S or 6 young onions, 1 strip of lemon-peel, 6 allspice, 1 teaspoonful of
pepper, 1 teaspoonful of salt, thickening of butter and flour, 2 table-
spoonfuls of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 1 tablespoonful
of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, green peas.

Mode. — Cut the breast in half, after removing the bone underneath,
and divide the meat into convenient-sized pieces. Put the butter iuto
a frying-pan, lay in the pieces of veal, and fry until of a nice brown
colour. Now place these in a stewpan with the herbs, mace, cloves,
onions, lemon-peel, allspice, and seasoning ; pour over them just suffi-
cient boiling water to cover the meat ; well close the lid, and let the
whole simmer very gently for about 2 hours. Strain off as much gravy
as is required, thicken it with butter and flour, add the remaining
ingredients, skim well, let it simmer for about 10 minutes, then pour
it over the meat. Have ready some green peas, boiled separately ;
sprinkle these over the veal, and serve, It may be garnished with
forcemeat balls, or rashers of bacon curled and fried. Instead of
cutting up the meat, many persons prefer it dressed whole; — in that
case it should be half-roasted before the water, &c. are put to it.

Time. — 21 hours. Average cost, 8 Id. per lb.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

Breeding of Calves. — The forwarding of calves to maturity, whether intended to
he reared for stock, or brought to an early market as veal, is always a subject of great
importance, and requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection of the
best course, to adopt for either end. When meant to be reared as stock, the breeding
should be so arranged that the cow shall calve about the middle of May. As our sub-
ject, however, has more immediate reference to the calf as meat than as stock, we shall
confine our remarks to the mode of procedure adopted in the former case ; and here,
the first process adopted is that of weaning; which consists in separating the calf
entirely from the cow, but, at the same time, rearing it on the mother’s milk. As the
business of the dairy would be suspended if every cow were allowed to rear its young,
and butter, cheese, and cream become desiderata , — things to be desired, but not possessed,
a system of economical husbandry becomes necessary, so as to retain our dairy produce,
and yet, for some weeks at least, nourish the call on its mother’s milk, but without
allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself: this, with the proper substituted
food on which' to rear the young animal, is called weaning.

VEAL CAKE (a Convenient Dish for a Picnic).

859. Ingredients. — A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of
cold ham, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley,
a little pepper, good gravy.

Mode. — Cut off' all the brown outside from the veal, and cut the
eggs into slices. Procure a pretty mould ; lay veal, ham, eggs, and

TEAL.

407

parsley in layers, -with a little pepper between each, and when the
mould is full, get some strong stock, and fill up the shape. Bake for
i hour, and when cold, turn it out.

Time. — u hour.

Seasonable at any time.

BOILED CALF’S FEET AND PARSLEY AND BUTTER.

860. Ingredients. — 2 calf’s feet, 2 slices of bacon, '2 oz. of butter,
2 tablespoonfuls of lemon -juice, salt and whole pepper to taste, 1 onion,
a bunch of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, water, parsley
and butter No. 493.

Mode. — Procure 2 white calf’s feet ; bone them as far as the first
joint, and put them into warm water to soak for 2 hours. Then put
the bacon, butter, lemon -juice, onion, herbs, spices, and seasoning
into a stewpan ; lay in the feet, and pour in just sufficient water to
cover the whole. Stew gently for about 3 hours ; take out the feet,
dish them,, and cover with parsley and butter, made by recipe
No. 493. The liquor they were boiled in should be strained and put
by in a clean basin for use : it will be found very good as an addition
to gravies, &c. &c. '

Time. — Rather more than 3 hours.

Average cost, in full season, 9 d. each. Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

When a Calf should be Killed. — The age at -which a calf ought to he killed
should not he under four weeks : before that time the flesh is certainly not wholesome,
wanting firmness, due development of muscular fibre, and those animal juices on
which the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend, whatever the unhealthy
palate of epicures may deem to the contrary. In France, a law exists to prevent the
slaughtering of calves under six weeks of age. The calf is considered in prime condition
at ten weeks, when he will weigh from sixteen to eighteen stone, and sometimes even
twenty.

FRICASSEED CALF’S FEET. *

861. Ingredients. — A set of calf’s feet; for the batter allow for
each egg 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of bread crumbs,
hot lard or clarified dripping, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — If the feet are purchased uncleaned, dip them into warm
water repeatedly, and scrape off the hair, first one foot and then the
other, until the skin looks perfectly clean, a saucepan of water being
kept by the fire until they are finished. After washing and soaking in
cold water, boil them in just sufficient water to cover them, until the
bones come easily away. Then pick them out, and after straining the
liquor into a clean vessel, put the meat into a pie-dish until the next
day. Now cut it down in slices about \ inch thick, lay on them a

408

-MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKER V.

stiff batter made of egg, flour, and bread crumbs in the above pro-
portion ; season with pepper and salt, and plunge them into a pan of
boiling lard. Fry the slices a nice brown, dry them before the fire
for a minute or two, dish them on a napkin, and garnish with tufts of
parsley. This should be eaten with melted butter, mustard, and
vinegar. Be careful to have the lard boiling to set the batter, or the
pieces of feet will run about the pan. .The liquor they were boiled in
should be saved, and will be found useful for enriching gravies,
making jellies, &c. &c.

Time. — About 3 hours to stew the feet, 10 or 15 minutes to fry
them.

Average cost, in full season, 9 d. each.

Sufficient for 8 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

.iV ote. — This dish can he highly recommended to delicate persons.

Colour of Veal. — As whiteness of flesh is considered a great advantage in veal,
butchers, in the selection of their calves, are in the habit of examining the inside of its
mouth, and noting the colour of the calf’s eyes ; alleging that, from the signs
they there see, they can prognosticate whether the veal will bewhite or florid.

COLLARED CALF’S HEAD.

862. Ingredients. — A calf’s head, 4 tablespoonfuls of minced
parsley, 4 blades of pounded mace, 4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,
white pepper to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of 6 eggs
boiled hard.

Mode. — Scald the head for a few minutes ; take it out of the water,
and with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely,
divide the head and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to
take out the bones, which will be in about 2 hours. When the head is
boned, flatten it on the table, sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley,
then a layer of ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin rings
and put a seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper
between each layer ; roll the head up in a cloth, and tie it up as
tightly as possible. Boil it for 4 horn’s, and when it is taken oat of
the pot, place a heavy weight on the top, the same as for other collars.
Eet it remain till cold ; then remove the cloth and binding, and it
will be ready to serve.

Time. — Altogether G hours. Average cost, 5s. to 7s. each.

Seasonable from March to October.

Feeding a Calf. — The amount of milk necessary for a calf for some time, will be
about four quarts a day, though, after the first fortnight, that quantity should be
gradually increased, according to its development of body, when, it fed exclusively on
milk, as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for the due health rtud require-
ments of the animal. If the weather is lino and gcuial, it should be turned into an
orchard or small paddock lor a few hours cueli day, to give it an opportunity to acquire

VEAL.

4)9

a relish' for the fresh pasture, which, by the tenth or twelfth week, it will begin to nibble
and enjoy. After a certain time, the quantity of milk may be diminished, and its place
supplied’ by water thickened with meal. Hay-tea and linseed-jelly are also highly
nutritious substances, and may be used either as adjuncts or substitutes.

FRICASSEED CALF’S HEAD (an Entree).

863. Ingredients. — The remains of a boiled calf’s head, H pint of
the liquor in which the head was boiled, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1
onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white pepper to
taste, thickening of butter and flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon-
ful of lemon-juice, forcemeat balls.

Mode. — Remove all the bones from the head, and cut the meat into
nice square pieces. Put l£ pint of the liquor it was boiled in into a
saucepan, with mace, onion, herbs, and seasoning in the above pro-
portion ; let this simmer gently for f hour, then strain it- and put in
the meat. When quite hot through, thicken the gravy with a little
butter rolled in flour, and, just before dishing the fricassee, put in the
beaten yolks of eggs and lemon-juice ; but be particular, after these
two latter ingredients are added, that the sauce does not boil, or it
will curdle. Garnish with forcemeat balls and curled slices of broiled
bacon. To insure the sauce being smooth, it is a good plan to dish
' the meat first, and then to add the eggs to the gravy : when these
are set, the sauce may be poured over the meat.

Time. — Altogether, lj hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6 d.

CALF’S HEAD a la Maitre d’Hotel.

864. Ingredients.— The remains of a cold calf’s head, rather more
than § pint of Maitre d’hotel sauce No. 466.

Mode. Make the sauce by recipe No. 466, and have it sufficiently
thick that it may nicely cover the meat ; remove the bones from the
head, and cut the meat into neat slices. When the sauce is ready,
lay in the meat ; let it gradually warm through, and, after it boils up,
let it simmer very gently for 5 minutes, and serve.

Time. — R,ather more than U hour.

A verage cost, exclusive of the meat, Is. 2c?.

Seasonable from March to October.

The Calf iit America.— In America, tlio calf is loft with the mother for three or
iour nays, when it is removed, and at once fed on barley and oats ground together and
' 1 1"a.rt,of the meal being boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of water.
evenW Tn^’V0 am,’y n“tntJoua. P™1, >» be given, lukewarm, morning and
to eat ami1 day3’ a(!JundIe ol 9°Jt ,hay '9 beside the calf, which he soon begins
l-VI? atthe same time, some of the dry meal is placed in his manger for him to

for two monPth«0eHn’/i'rttduir y tha quantity of gruel twice a day, is continued

success 1 ca ‘ 13 ffc to 6° to grass, and, as it is said, with the best possible
of the best cxpcriehhceOUt y’ m°de polnted out in No- 862 hila received the sanction

410

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

CURRIED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

865. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast veal, 4 onions, 2
apples sliced, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 dessertspoonful of
flour, 5 pint of broth or water, 1 tablespoonful of lemon -juice.

Mode. — Slice the onions and apples, and fry them in a little butter ;
then take them out, cut the meat into neat cutlets, and fry these of a
pale brown ; add the curry-powder and flour, put in the onion, apples,
and a little broth or water, and stew gently till quite tender ; add the
lemon-juice, and serve with an edging of boiled rice. The curry may
be ornamented with pickles, capsicums, and gherkins arranged prettily
on the top.

Time. — f hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, id.

Seasonable from March to October.

VEAL CUTLETS (an Entree).

866. Ingredients. — About 3 lbs. of the prime .part of the leg of
veal, egg and bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury
herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a small piece of butter.

Mode. — Have the veal cut into slices about f of an inch in thickness,
and, if not cut perfectly even, level the meat with a cutlet-bat or
rolling-pin. Shape and trim the, cutlets, and
brush them over with egg. Sprinkle with
bread crumbs, with which have been mixed
minced herbs and a seasoning of pepper and
salt, and press the crumbs down. Fry them
of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter,
and be careful not to burn them. They should
be very thoroughly done, but not dry. If the
cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes at a good
distance from the fire, after they have acquired a good colour : by this
means, the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish, keep
them hot, and make a gravy in the pan as follows : Dredge in a little
flour, add a piece of butter the size of a walnut, brown it, then pour
as much boiling water as is required over it, season with pepper and
salt, add a little lemon -juice, give one boil, and pour it over the
cutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon,
and a few forcemeat balls will be found a very excellent addition to
this dish.

Time. — For cutlets of a moderate thickness, about 12 minutes ; if
very thick, allow more time.

VEAL.

411

Average cost, 10rZ. per lb. Sufficient for 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

Note. — Veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown-; the
gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe. They
may also be cut from the loin or neck , as shown in the engraving.

BROILED VEAL CUTLETS a TItalienne (an Entree).

867. Ingredients. — Neck of veal, salt and pepper to taste, the
yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, i pint of Italian sauce No. 453.

Mode. — Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely ;
powder over them a little salt and pepper ; brush them over with the
yolk of an egg, dip them into bread crumbs, then into clarified butter,
and, afterwards, in the bread crumbs again ; broil or fry them over a
clear fire, that they may acquire a good brown colour. Arrange them
in the dish alternately with rashers of broiled ham, and pour the
sauce, made by recipe No. 453, in the middle.

Time— 10 to 15 minutes, according to the thickness of the cutlets.

Average cost, 10d, jper lb.

Seasonable from March to October.

The Calf’s-IIead Club. — When the restoration of Charles II. took the strait
waistcoat off the minds and morose religion of the Commonwealth period, and gave a
loose rein to the long-compressed spirits of the people, there still remained a large
section of society wedded to the former state of things. The elders of this party retired
from public sight, where, unoffended by the reigning saturnalia, they might dream in
seclusion over their departed Utopia. The young bloods of this school, however, who
were compelled to mingle in the world, yet detesting the politics which had become the
fashion, adopted a novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments, and mark
their contempt of the reigning family. They accordingly met, in considerable numbers,
at some convenient inn, on the 30th of January in each year, — the anniversary of Charles’s
death, and dined together off a feast prepared from calves’ heads, dressed in every
possible variety of way, and with aft abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and
hatred to the house of Stuart, and glory to the memory of old Holl Cromwell; and
haying lighted a large bonfire in the yard, the club of fast young Puritans, with their
white handkerchiefs stained red in wine, and one of the party in a mask, bearing an axe,
followed by the chairman, carrying a calf's head pinned up in a napkin, marched in
mock procession to the bonfire, into which, with great shouts and uproar, they flung the
enveloped head. This odd custom was continued for some time, and even down to the
early part of this century it was customary for men of republican politics always to dine
off calf’s head on the 30th of January.

VEAL CUTLETS a la Maintenon (art Entree).

868. Ingredients.— 2 or 3 lbs. of veal cutlets, egg and bread
crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced savoury kerbs, salt and pepper to
taste, a little grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Cut the cutlets about f inch in thickness, flatten them, and
brush them over with the yolk of an egg ; dip them into bread
crumbs and mitaced herbs, season with pepper and salt and grated
nutmeg, and fold each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Broil them,
and send them to table with melted butter or a good gravy.

412

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — From 15 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 10 d. per lb.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March, to October.

VEAL A LA BOURGEOISE.

(Excellent.)

86g. Ingredients.— 2 to 3 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 10 or
12 young carrots, a bunch of green onions, 2 slices of lean bacon,
2 blades of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt
to taste, a few new potatoes, 1 pint of green peas.

Mode. — Cut the veal into cutlets, trim them, and put the trimmings
into a stewpan with a little butter ; lay in the cutlets and fry them a
nice brown colour on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spice,
herbs, and seasoning ; pour in about a pint of boiling water, and stew
gently for 2 hours on a very slow hre. When-done, skim off the fat,
take out the herbs, and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce
and ketchup. Have ready the peas and potatoes, boiled separately ;
put them with the veal, and serve.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 2s. 9 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from June to August with peas; — rather earlier when
these are omitted.

SCOTCH COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

870. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast veal, a little butter,
flour, § pint of water, 1 onion, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoon-
ful of lemon -juice, h teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 2 table-
spoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.

Mode. — Cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets, rather larger
than a crown-piece ; flour the meat well, and fry a light brown in
butter ; dredge again with flour, and add \ pint of water, pouring it in
by degrees ; set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the onion and
mace, and let it simmer very gently about f hour ; flavour the gravy
with lemon -juice, peel, wine, and ketchup, in the above proportion;
give one boil, and serve.

Time. — | hour.

Seasonable from March to October.

SCOTCH COLLOPS, WHITE (Cold Meat Cookery).

871. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast veal, 3 teaspoonful
of grated nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste,

VEAL.

413

a little butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, l pint of water, 1 teaspoonful
of anchovy sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, \ teaspoonful of
lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, 3 tablespoonfuls of
cream, 1 tablespoonful of sherry.

Mode. — Cut the veal into thin slices about 3 inches in width ; hack
them with a knife, and grate on them the nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and
salt, and fry them in a little butter. Dish them, and make a gravy in
the pan by putting in the remaining ingredients. Give one boil, and
pour it over the collops ; garnish with lemon and slices of toasted
bacon, rolled. Forcemeat balls may be added to this dish. If cream
is not at hand, substitute the yolk of an egg beaten up well with
a little milk.

Time. — About 5 or 7 minutes.

Seasonable from May to October.

Cooking Collops. — Dean Ramsay, who tells us, in liis “ Reminiscences of Scottish
Life and Character,” a number of famous stories of the strong-headed, warm-hearted,

and plain-spoken old dames of the north, gives, amongst them, the following : A

strong-minded iady of this class was inquiring the character of a cook she was about to
hire. The lady who was giving the character entered a Tittle upon the cook’s moral
qualifications, and described her as a very decent woman ; to which the astounding'

reply — this was 60 years ago, and a Dean tells the story — “ Oh, d n her decency : can

she make good collops ? ’*

ROAST FILLET OP VEAL.

872. Ingredients. — Yeal, forcemeat No. 417, melted butter.

Mode. Have the fillet cut according to the size required ; take out
the bone, and after raising the skin from the meat, put under the flap
a nice forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417.

Prepare sufficient of this, as there should
be some left to eat cold, and to season and
flavour a mince if required. Skewer and
bind the veal up in a round form ; dredge
well with flour, put it down at some dis-
tance from the fire at first, and baste con-
tinually. About 5 hour before serving, draw it nearer the fire, that it
may acquire more colour, as the outside should be of a rich brown,
but not burnt. Dish it, remove the skewers, which replace by a
silver one ; pour over the joint some good melted butter, and serve
with either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never omit to send
a cut lemon to table with roast veal.

Time.— A fillet of veal weighing 12 lbs., about 4 hours.

Aceraye cost, 9 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

414

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

STEWED EILLET OF VEAL.

873. Ingredients.— A small fillet of veal, forcemeat No. 417,
thickening; of butter and flour, a few mushrooms, white pepper to
taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon -juice, 2 blades of pounded mace,
A glass of sherry.

Mode. — If the whole of the leg is purchased, take off the knuckle to
stew, and also the square end, which will serve for cutlets or pies.
Remove the bone, and fill the space with a forcemeat No. 417. Roll
and skewer it up firmly ; place a few skewers at the bottom of a stew-
pan to prevent the meat from sticking, and cover the veal with a
little weak stock. Let it simmer very gently until tender, as the
more slowly veal is stewed, the better. Strain and thicken the sauce,
flavour it with lemon-juice, mace, sherry, and white pepper ; give one
boil, and pour it over the meat. The skewers should be removed, and
replaced by a silver one, and the dish garnished with slices of cut
lemon.

. Time. — A fillet of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3

Average cost, 9 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

The Golden Calf.— We are told in the book of Genesis, that Aaron, in the lengthened
absence of Moses, was constrained by the impatient people to make them an image to
worship ; and that Aaron, ins'tead of using his delegated power to curb this sinful
expression of the tribes, and appease the discontented Jews, at once complied with their
demand, and, telling them to bring to him their rings and trinkets, fashioned out of
their willing contributions a calf of gold, before which the multitude fell down and
worshipped. Whether this image was a solid figure of gold, or a wooden effigy merely,
coated with metal, is uncertain. To suppose the former, — knowing the size of the image
made from such trifling articles as rings, we must presuppose the Israelites to hare
spoiled the Egyptians most unmercifully : the figure, however, is of more consequence
than the weight or size of the idol. That the Israelites brought away more from Goshen
than the plunder of the Egyptians, and that they were deeply imbued with Egyptian
superstition, the golden calf is only one, out of many, instances of proof ; for a gilded
ox, covered with a pall, was in that country an emblem of Osiris, one of the gods of the
Egyptian trinity. Besides having a sacred cow, and many varieties of the holy bull,
this priest-ridden people worshipped the ox as a symbol of the sun, and offered to it
divino honours, as the emblem of frugality, industry, and husbandry. It is therefore
probable that, in borrowing so familiar a type, the Israelites, in their calf-worship,
meant, under a well-understood cherubic symbol, tp acknowledge the full force of those
virtues, under an emblem of divine power and goodness. The prophet Hosea is full of
denunciations against calf-worship in Israel, and alludes to the custom of kissing these
idols, Hosea, viii. 4 — 0.

hours’jpery gentle stewing.

PEICANDEAU OF VEAL (an Entree).

874. Ingredients. — A piece of tbe fat side of a leg of veal (about
3 lbs.), lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 large onions, a faggot of savoury herbs,
2 blades of pounded mace, 6 whole allspice, 2 bay-leaves, pepper to
taste, a few slices of fat bacon, I pint of stock No. 107.

Mode. — The veal for a fricandeau should be of the best quality, or

MODERN MODE OF SERVING DISHES.

T. Curried Rabbit or Fowl. TJ. Spinnob and Poncbod Eggs.

"W. Muttoii Outlets and Maslied Potatoes. X.

V. Fricandeau of Veal. ]

Rissoles.

VEAL.

415

it will not be good. It may be known by the meat being white and
not thready. Take off the skin, flatten the veal on the table, then at
one stroke of the knife, cut off as much as is required, for a fricandeau
with an uneven surface never looks
well. Trim it, and with a sharp knife
make two or three slits in the middle,
that it may taste more of the seasoning.

Now lard it thickly with fat bacon, as
lean gives a red colour to the fricandeau.

Slice the vegetables, and put these, with
the herbs and spices, in the middle of piucandeau of veal.-

a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon

at the top : these should form a sort of mound in the centre for the
veal to rest upon. Lay the fricandeau over the bacon, sprinkle over it
a little salt, and pour in just suflicient stock to cover the bacon, &c.,
without touching the veal. Let it gradually come to a boil ; then put
it over a slow and equal fire, and let it simmer very gently for
about 2i hours, or longer should it be very large. Baste it frequently
with the liquor, and a short time before serving, put it into a brisk
oven, to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break when it
was glazed. Dish the fricandeau, keep it hot, skim off the fat from
the liquor, and reduce it quickly to a glaze, with which glaze the
fricandeau, and serve with a puree of whatever vegetable happens to
be in season — spinach, sorrel, asparagus, cucumbers, peas, &c.

Time. — 2| hours. If very large, allow more time.

Average cost, 3s. 6d.

Sufficient for an entree.

Seasonable from March to October.

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.

(More economical.)

875. Ingredients.— The best end of a neck of veal (about 2^ lbs.),
lardoons, 2 carrots, 2 onions, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades
of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little whole white pepper, a few slices of fat
bacon.

Mode. — Cut away the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal
with a sharp knife, scooping it from the bones. Put the bones in with
a little water, which will serve to moisten the fricandeau : they should
stew about 1-J hour. Lard the veal, proceed in the same way as in the
preceding recipe, and be careful that the gravy does not touch the

416

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

fricandeau. Stew very gently for 3 hours ; glaze, and serve it on sorrel,
spinach, or with a little gravy in the dish.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, 2s. 6d.

Sufficient for an entree. Seasonable from March to October.

Note. — When the prime part of the leg is cut off, it spoils the whole ; con-
sequently, to use this for a fricandeau is rather extravagant. The best end of
the neck answers the purpose nearly or quite as well.

BOILED CALF’S HEAD (with the Skin on).

876. Ingredients. — Calf’s head, boiling water, bread crumbs, 1
large bunch of parsley, butter, white pepper and salt to taste, 4 table-
spoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 or 3 grains
of cayenne.

Mode. — Put the head into boiling water, and let it remain by the
side of the fire for 3 or 4 minutes ; take it out, hold it by the ear, and
with the back of a knife, scrape off the hair (should it not come off
easily, dip the head again into boiling water). When perfectly clean,
take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and remove the brain, which soak
for an hour in warm water. Put the head into hot water to soak for
a few minutes, to make it look white, and then have ready a stewpan,
into which lay the head ; cover, it with cold water, and bring it gra-
dually to boil. Remove the scum, and add a little salt, which assists
to throw it up. Simmer it very gently from 2% to 3 hours, and when
nearly done, boil the hrains for } hour ; skin and chop them, not
too finely, and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has been
previously scalded. Season with pepper and salt, and stir the brains,
parsley, &c., into about 4 tablepoonsfuls of melted butter ; add the
lemon-juice and cayenne, and keep these hot by the side of the fire.
Take up the head, cut out the tongue, skin it, put it on a small dish
with the brains round it ; sprinkle over the head a few bread crumbs
mixed with a little minced parsley ; brown these before the fire, and
serve with a tureen of parsley and butter, and either boiled bacon,
ham, or pickled pork as an accompaniment.

Time.— 2* to 3 hours.

Average cost, according to the season, from 3s. to 7s. Qd.

Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. ,

Seasonable from March to October.

BOILED CALF’S HEAD (without the Skin).

877. Ingredients. — Calf’s head, water, a little salt, 4 tablespoon fuls
of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to
taste, 1 tablespoonful of lemon -juice.

VEAL.

417

Mode. — After the head has been thoroughly cleaned, and the brains
removed, soak it in warm water to blanch it. Lay the brains also
into warm water to soak, and let them remain for about an hour. Put
the head into a stewpan, with sufficient cold water to cover it, and

cam’s head. ham a cam’s head.

when it boils, add a little salt; take off every particle of scum as it
rises, and boil the head until perfectly tender. Boil the brains, chop
them, and mix with them melted butter, minced parsley, pepper, salt,
and lemon-juice in the above proportion. Take up the head, skin the
tongue, and put it on a small dish with the brains round it. Have
ready some parsley and butter, smother the head with it, and the
remainder send to table in a tureen. Bacon, ham, pickled pork, or a
pig’s cheek, are indispensable with calf’s head. The brains are some-
times chopped with hard-boiled eggs, and mixed with a little Bechamel
or white sauce.

Time. — Prom 1-J- to 2| hours.

Average cost, according to the season, from 3s. to 5s.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

Note. — The liquor in which the head was boiled should be saved : it makes
excellent soup, and will be found a nice addition to gravies, &c. Half a calf’s
head is as frequently served as a .whole one, it being a more convenient-sized
joint for a small family. It is cooked in the same manner, and served with the
same sauces, as in the preceding recipe.

HASHED C ALE’S HEAD (Cold Meat Cookery).

878. Ingredients.— The remains of a cold boiled calf’s head, 1 quart
of the liquor in which it was boiled, a faggot of savoury herbs, 1 onion,
I carrot, a strip of lemon-peel, 2 blades of pounded mace, salt and
white pepper to taste, a very little cayenne, rather more than 2 table-
spoonfuls of sherry, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of
mushroom ketchup, forcemeat balls.

Mode. — Cut the meat into neat slices, and put the bones and trim-
mings into a stewpan with the above proportion of liquor that the
head was boiled in. Add a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, 1 carrot,
a strip of lemon-peel, and 2 blades of pounded mace, and let these

2 e ,

41S

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

boil for 1 hour, or until the gravy is reduced nearly half. Strain
it into a clean stewpan, thicken it with a little butter and flour, and
add a flavouring of sherry, lemon-juice, and ketchup, in the above
proportion; season with pepper, salt, and a little cayenne; put iu
the meat, let it gradually warm through, but not boil more than two
or three minutes. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls and pieces
of bacon rolled and toasted, placed alternately, and send it to table
very hot.

Time. — Altogether If hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the remains of the head, 6r?.

Seasonable from March to October.

VEAL COLLOPS (an Entree).

879. Ingredients. — About 2 lbs. of the prime part of the leg of
veal, a few slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, cayenne to taste, egg
and bread crumbs, gravy.

Mode. — Cut the veal into long thin collops, flatten them, and lay
on each a piece of thin bacon of the same size ; have ready some force-
meat, made by recipe No. 417, which spread over the bacon, sprinkle
over all a little cayenne, roll them up tightly, and do not let them be
more than 2 inches long. Skewer each one firmly, egg and bread crumb
them, and fry them a nice brown in a little butter, turning them occa-
sionally, and shaking the pan about. When done, place them on a
dish before the fire ; put a small piece of butter in'the pan, dredge iu
a little flour, add \ pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon -juice, a
seasoning of salt, pepper, and pounded mace ; let the whole boil up,
and pour it over the collops.

Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, 10 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

CALF’S LIVER AUX FINES EEEBES & SAUCE PIQUANTE.

880. Ingredients. — A calf’s liver, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs,
including parsley ; when liked, 2 minced shalots ; 1 teaspoonful of
flour, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon -juice,
pepper and salt to taste, \ pint water.

Mode. — Procure a calf’s liver as white ns possible, and cut it into
slices of a good and equal shape. Dip them in flour, and fry them of
a good colour in a little butter. When they are done, put them on a
dish, which keep hot before the fire. Mince the herbs very line, put
them in the frying-pan with a little more butter ; add the remaining

VEAL.

419

ingredients, simmer gently until the herbs are done, and pour over
the liver.

Time. — According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.

Average cost, 10 d. per lb. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

CALF’S LIVER AND BACON.

88 1. Ingredients. — 2 or 3 lbs. of liver, bacon, pepper and salt to
taste, a small piece of butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon -juice,
% pint of water.

Mode. — Cut the liver in thin slices, and cut as many slices of bacon
as there are of liver ; fry the bacon first, and put that on a hot dish
before the fire. Fry the liver in the fat which comes from the bacon,
after seasoning it with pepper and salt and dredging over it a very little
flour. Turn the liver occasionally to prevent its burning, and when
done, lay it round the dish with a piece of bacon between each. Pour
away the bacon fat, put in a small piece of butter, dredge in a little
flour, add the lemon-juice and water, give one boil, and pour it in the
middle of the dish. It may be garnished with slices of cut lemon, or
forcemeat balls.

Tune. — According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes.

Average cost, 10 d. per lb. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

CALF’S LIVER LARDED AND ROASTED (an Entree).

882. Ingredients. — A calf’s liver, vinegar, 1 onion, 3 or 4 sprigs of
parsley and thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 bay-leaf, lardoons,
brown gravy.

Mode. — Take a fine white liver, and lard it the same as a frieandeau ;
put it into vinegar with an onion cut in slices, parsley, thyme, bay-
leaf, and seasoning in the above proportion. Let it remain in this
pickle for 24 hours, then roast and baste it frequently with the
vinegar, & c. ; glaze it, serve under it a good brown gravy, or sauce
piquante, and send it to table very hot.

Time.— Ptather more than 1 hour. Average cost, 10 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

Note. — Calf’s liver stuffed with forcemeat No. 417, to which has been addod
a little fat bacon, will be found a very savoury dish. It should be larded or
wrapped in buttered paper, and roasted before a clear fire. Brown gravy and
currant jelly should be served with it.

2 E 2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY'.

FILLET OP VEAL AIT BECHAMEL (Cold Meat Cookery).

883. Ingredients.— A small fillet of veal, 1 pint of Bechamel sauce
No. 367, a few bread crumbs, clarified butter.

Mode. — A fillet of veal that has been roasted the preceding day will
answer very well for this dish. Cut the middle out rather deep, leaving
a good margin round, from which to cut nice slices, and if there
should be any cracks in the veal, fill them up with forcemeat. Mince
finely the meat that was taken out, mixing with it a little of the
forcemeat to flavour, and stir to it sufficient Bechamel to make it of a
proper consistency. Warm the veal in the oven for about an hour,
taking care to baste it well, that it may not be dry ; put the mince in
the place where the meat was taken out, sprinkle a few bread crumbs
over it, and drop a little clarified butter on the bread crumbs ; put it
into the oven for -j hour to brown, and pour Bechamel round the sides
of the dish.

Time. — Altogether Ih hour.

Seasonable from March to October.

TO RAGOUT A KNUCKLE OP VEAL.

884. Ingredients. — Knuckle of veal, pepper and salt to taste, flour,
1 onion, 1 head of celery, or a little celery -seed, a faggot of savoury
herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, thickening of butter and flour, a few
young carrots, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of tomato

* sauce, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the juice of 5 lemon.

Mode. — Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal into neat slices, season
with pepper and salt, and dredge them with flour. Fry them in a
little butter of a pale brown, and put them into a stewpan with the
bone (which should be chopped in several places) ; add the celery, herbs,
mace, and carrots; pour over all about 1 pint of hot water, and let it
simmer very gently for 2 hours, over a slow but clear fire. Take out
the slices of meat and carrots, strain and thicken the gravy with a little
butter rolled in flour ; add the remaining ingredients, give one boil, put
back the meat and carrots, let these get hot through, and serve. When
in season! a few green peas, boiled separately, and added to this dish
at the moment of serving, would be found a very agreeable addition.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 5d. to 6 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

STEWED KNUCKLE OP VEAL AND RICE.

885. Ingredients. — Knuckle of veal, 1 onion, 2 blades of mace, 1
teaspoonful of salt, £ lb. of rice.

VEAL.

421

Mode. — Have the knuckle cut small, or cut some cutlets from it, that
it may he just large enough to be eaten the same day it is dressed, as
cold boiled veal is not a particularly
tempting dish. Break the shank-bone,
wash it clean, and put the meat into a
stewpan with sufficient water to cover
it. Let it gradually come to a boil, put
in the salt, and remove the scum as fast
as it rises. When it has simmered
gently for about f hour, add the remaining ingredients, and stew the
whole gently for 2\ hours. Put the meat into a deep dish, pour over it
the rice, &c., and send boiled bacon, and a tureen of parsley and
butter to table with it.

Time. — A knuckle of veal weighing 6 lbs., 3 hours’ gentle stewing.

Average cost, 5 d. to 6 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

KNUCKLE OE VEAL.

Note. — Macaroni, instead of rice, boiled with the veal, will be found good ; or
the rice and macaroni may be omitted, and the veal sent to table smothered in
parsley and butter.

BOAST LOIN OF VEAL.

886. Ingredients. — Yeal ; melted butter.

Mode. — Paper the kidney fat ; roll in and skewer the flap, which
makes the joint a good shape ; dredge it well with flour, and put it
down to a bright fire. Should the loin
be very large, skewer the kidney back
for a time to roast thoroughly. Keep it
well basted, and a short time before
serving, remove, the paper from the kid-
ney, and allow it to acquire a nice brown
colour, but it should not be burnt. Have
ready some melted butter, put it into the dripping-pan after it is
emptied of its contents, pour it over the veal, and serve. Garnish the
dish with slices of lemon and forcemeat balls, and send to table with
it, boiled bacon, ham, pickled pork, or pig’s cheek.

Time. — A large loin, 3 hours. Average cost, 94 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. „

Seasonable from March to October.

A ole. — A piece ot toast should be placed under the kidney when the veal is
dished.

422

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

LOIN" OF VEAL ATT BECHAMEL (Cold. Mea t Cookery).

887. Ingredients. — Loin of veal, l teaspoonful of minced lemon-
peel, rather more than j pint of Bechamel or white sauce.

Mode.— A loin of veal which has come from table with very little
taken off, answers very well for this dish. Cut off the meat from the
inside, mince it, and mii with it some minced lemon-peel ; put it into
sufficient Bechamel to warm through. In the mean time, wrap the
joint in buttered paper, and place it in the oven to warm. When
thoroughly hot, dish the mince, place the loin above it, and pour over
the remainder of the Bechamel.

Time. — l£ hour to warm the meat in the oven.

Seasonable from March to October.

LOIN OF VEAL, a la Daube.

888. Ingredients. — The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat
kNo. 417, a few slices of bacon, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 blades of
mace, i teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 pint of veal stock or
water, 5 or 6 green onions.

Mode. — Cut off the chump from a loin of veal, and take out the
bone; fill the cavity with forcemeat Wo. 417, tie it up tightly, and
lay it in a stewpan with the bones and trimmings, and cover the
veal with a few slices of bacon. Add the herbs, mace, pepper, and
onions, and stock or water ; cover the pan with a closely-fitting lid,
and simmer for 2 hours, shaking the stewpan occasionally. Take out
the bacon, herbs, and onions ; reduce the gravy, if not already thick
enough, to a glaze, with which glaze the meat, and serve with tomato,
mushroom, or sorrel sauce.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 9 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

MINCED VEAL, with Bechamel Sauce (Cold Meat Cookery).

(Very Good.)

889. Ingredients. — The remains of a fillet of veal, 1 pint of
Bechamel sauce No. 367, A teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, force-
meat balls.

Mode. — Cut — hut do not chop — a few slices of cold roast veal as I
finely as possible, sufficient to make rather more than 1 lb., weighed
after being minced. Make the above proportion of Bechamel, by
recipe No. 367 ; add the lemon-peel, put in the veal, and let the

VEAL.

423

■w hole gradually ■warm through. When it is at the point of simmering,
dish it, and garnish with forcemeat balls and fried sippets of bread.
Time. — To simmer 1 minute.

A verage cost, exclusive of the cold meat, Is. id.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

' MINCED VEAL.

( More Economical.)

890. Ixghedievts. — The remains of cold roast fillet or loin of veal,
rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 onion, \ teaspoonful of minced
lemon-peel, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace,
2 or 3 young carrots, a faggot of sweet herbs, thickening of butter
and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream or
milk.

Mode. — Take about 1 lb. of veal, and should there be any bones,
dredge them with flour, and put them into a stewpan with the brown
outside, and a few meat trimmings ; add rather more than a pint of
water, the onion cut in slices, lemon-peel, seasoning, mace, carrots, and
herbs ; simmer these well for rather more than 1 hour, and strain the
liquor. Eub a little flour into some butter ; add this to the gravy,
set it on the fire, and, when it boils, skim well. Mince the veal finely
by cutting, and not chopping it ; put it in the gravy ; let it get warmed
through gradually ; add the lemon-juice and cream, and, when it is on
the point of boiling, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted
bread and slices of bacon rolled and toasted. Forcemeat balls may
also be added. If more lemon-peel is liked than is stated above,
put a little very finely minced to the veal, after it is warmed in the
gravy.

Time. — 1 hour to make the gravy.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, Gd.

Seasonable from March to October.

Tun Calf a Symbol of Divine Power. — A singular symbolical ceremony existed
among the Hebrews, m which the calf performed a most important part. The calf
being a type or symbol of Divine power, or what was called the Eloliim,— the Almighty
intelligence that brought them out of Egypt,— was looked upon much in the same light
by the Jews, as the cross subsequently was by the Christians, a mystical emblem of
the Divine passion and goodness. Consequently, an oath taken ou either the calf or
I,,' fross was considered equally solemn and sacred by Jew or Nazarene, and the
“ » soul-staining perjury on themselves, and an insult and profanation
-'. 're< f° Almighty. '1 o render the oath moro impressive and solemn, it
y to slap gh ter a dedicated calf in the temple, when, the priests having
urrimm,|thtLC,irC“e 1 V? , a cer,tnm number of parts, and with intervening spaces,
were mfnv fn edi ° v the ™rl)1? lavement, the one, or all the party, if there
threaded H, "dlT1^ual.s’ to be bound by the oath, repeating the words of the compact,
circuit of 1 each ^ i "”r i°l k «>e different spaces, till they had taken the

each portion of the divided calf, when the ceremony was concluded. To

421

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

avert the anger of tho Lord, when Jerusalem was threatened by Nebuchadnezzar and
his Babylonian host, the Jews had made a solemn vow to God, ratified by the ceremony
of the calf, if He released them from their dreaded foe, to cancel the servitude of their
Hebrew brethren. After investing the city for some time, and reducing the inliabi-
tants to dreadful suffering and privation, the Babylonians, hearing that Pharaoh, whom
the Jews had solicited for aid, was rapidly approaching with a powerful array, hastily
raised the siege, and, removing to a distance, took up a position where they could inter-
cept the Egyptians, and still cover the city. Ho sooner did the Jews behold the retreat
of the enemy, than they believed all danger was past, and, with their usual turpitude,
they repudiated their oath, and refused to liberate their oppressed countrymen. For
this violation of their covenant with the Lord, they were given over-to all the horrors of
the sword, pestilence, and famine. — Jeremiah, xxxiv. 15—17.

MINCED VEAL AND MACARONI.

(-1 pretty side or corner dish.)

8gt. Ingredients. — | lb. of minced cold roast veal, 3 oz. of ham,
1 tablcspoonftil of gravy, pepper and salt to taste, | teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg, | lb. of bread crumbs, \ lb. of macaroni, 1 or 2 eggs to
bind, a small piece of butter.

Mode. — Cut some nice slices from a cold fillet of veal, trim oft’ the
brown outside, and mince the meat finely with the above proportion
of liam : should the meat be very dry, add a spoonful of good gravy.
Season highly with pepper and salt, add the grated nutmeg and bread
crumbs, and mix these ingredients with 1 or 2 eggs well beaten, which
should bind the mixture and make it like forcemeat. In the mean
time, boil the macaroni in salt and water, and drain it ; butter a
mould, put some of the macaroni at the bottom and sides of it, in
whatever form is liked ; mix the remainder with the forcemeat, fill
the mould up to the top, put a plate or small dish on it, and steam
for | hour. Turn it out carefully, and serve with good gravy poured
round, but not over, the meat.

Time. — hour. A verage cost, exclusive of the cold meat, loci'.

Seasonable from March to October.

Note. — To make a variety, boil some carrots and turnips separately in a
little salt and water ; when done, cut them into pieces about J inch in thick-
ness ; butter an oval mould, and place these in it, in white and red stripes
alternately, at the bottom and sides. Proceed as in tho foregoing recipe, anti
be very careful in turning it out of the mould.

MOULDED MINCED VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

892. Ingredients. — % lb. of cold roast veal, a small slice of bacon,
1 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, 5 onion chopped fine, salt, pepper,
and pounded mace to taste, a slice of toast soaked in milk, 1 egg.

Mode.— Mince the meat very fine, after removing from it all skin
and outside pieces, and chop the bacon ; mix these well together,
adding the lemon-peel, onion, seasoning, mace, and toast. When all

TEAL.

42o

the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, beat up an egg, •with
which bind the mixture. Butter a shape, put in the meat, and bake
for i hour ; turn it out of the mould carefully, and pour round it a
good brown gravy. A sheep’s head dressed in this manner is an
economical and savoury dish.

Time. — f hour. Average cost, exclusive of the meat, 6 d.

Seasonable from March to October.

BRAISED NECK OE VEAL.

893. Ingredients. — The best end of the neck of veal (from 3 to
4 lbs.), bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, salt, pepper, and
grated nutmeg to taste ; 1 onion, 2 carrots, a little celery (when this
is not obtainable, use the seed), J glass of sherry, thickening of butter
and flour, lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace.

Mode. — Prepare the bacon for larding, and roll it in minced parsley,
salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg ; lard the veal, put it into a stewpan
with a few slices of lean bacon or ham, an onion, carrots, and celery ; and
do not quite cover it with water. Stew it gently for 2 hours, or until
it is quite tender ; strain off the liquor ; stir together over the fire, in
a stewpan, a little flour and butter until brown ; lay the veal in this,
the upper side to the bottom of the pan, and let it remain till of a nice
brown colour. Place it in the dish ; pour into the stewpan as much
gravy as is required, boil it up, skim well, add the wine, pounded
mace, and lemon-juice ; sinyner for 3 minutes, pour it over the meat,
and serve.

Time. — Bather more than 2 hours. Average cost, 8 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

Binm of Calves.— Tho cow seldom produces more than a single calf; sometimes,
twins, and, very rarely, three. A French newspaper, however,— the “ Nouveau Bulletin
des Sciences,”— gave a trustworthy but extraordinary account of a cow which produced
nine calves in all, at three successive births, in three successive years. The first, year
four cow calves ; the second year, three calves, two of them females ; the third year!
two calves, both females. With the exception of two belonging to the first birth, all were
suckled by the mother.

ROAST NECK OF VEAL.

894. Ingredients.— Yeal, melted butter, forcemeat balls.

Mode. Have the veal cut from the best end of the neck ; dredge it
■with flour, and put it down to a bright clear fire ; keep it well basted ;
dish it, pour over it some melted butter, and garnish the dish with
fried forcemeat balls ; send to table with a cut lemon. The scrag

42 6

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

may be boiled or stewed in various ways, with rice, onion-sauce, or
parsley and butter.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average cost, 8 d. per lb.

Sufficient. — 4 or 5 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

VEAL OLIVE PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).

895. Ingredients. — A few thin slices of cold fillet of veal, a few
thin slices of bacon, forcemeat No. 417, a cupful of gravy, 4 table-
spoonfuls of cream, puff-crust.

Mode. — Cut thin slices from a fillet of veal, place on them thin slices
of bacon, and over them a layer of forcemeat, made by recipe No. 417,
with an additional seasoning of shalot and cayenne ; roll them tightly,
and fill up a pie-dish with them ; add the gravy and cream, cover with
a puff-crust, and bake for 1 to U hour : should the pie be very large,
allow 2 hours. The pieces of rolled veal should be about 3 inches in
length, and about 3 inches round.

Time. — Moderate-sized pie, 1 to I5 hour.

Seasonable from March to October.

PRIED PATTIES (Cold Meat Cookery).

896. Ingredients. — Cold roast veal, a few slices of cold ham, 1 egg
boiled hard, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, gravy, cream, 1
teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel, good puff-paste.

Mode. — Mince a little cold veal and ham, allowing one-third ham
to two-thirds veal ; add an egg boiled hard and chopped, and a
seasoning of pounded mace, salt, pepper, and lemon-peel ; moisten
with a little gravy and cream. Make a good puff-paste ; roll rather
thin, and cut it into round or square pieces ; put the mince between
two of them, pinch the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry a light
brown. They may be also baked in patty-pans : in that case, they
should be brushed over with the yolk of an egg before they are put
in the oven. To make a variety, oysters may be substituted for
the ham.

Time. — 15 minutes to fry the patties.

Seasonable from March to October.

VEAL PIE.

897. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon
or ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 tablespoon fuls of minced savoury
herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, crust, 1 tcacupful of gravy.

VEAL.

427

Mode. — Cut the cutlets into square pieces, and season them with
pepper, salt, and pounded mace ; put them in a pie-dish with the
savoury herbs sprinkled over, and 1 or 2 slices of lean bacon or ham
placed at the top : if possible, this should he previously cooked, as
undressed bacon makes the veal red, and spoils its appearance. Pour
in a little water, cover with crust, ornament it in any way that is
approved ; brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a well-
heated oven for about M hour. Pour in a good gravy after baking,
which is done by removing the top ornament, and replacing it after
the gravy is added.

Time. — About 1§ hour. Average cost, 2s. 6 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

A very Veal Dinner. — At a dinner given by Lord Polkenunet, a Scotch nobleman
and judge, his giiest9 saw, when the covers were removed, that the fare consisted ol
veal broth, a roasted fillet of veal, veal cutlets, a veal pie, a calf’s head, and calf’s-foot
jelly. The judge, observing the surprise of his guests, volunteered an explanation. —
“ Ou, ay, it’s a’ cauf; when we kill a beast, we just eat up ae side, and doun the
tither.”

VEAL AND HAM PIE.

898. Ingredients.— 2 lbs. of veal cutlets, 4 lb. of boiled ham, 2
tablespoonfuls of minced savoury herbs, j teaspoonful of grated
nutmeg, 2 blades of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, a strip of
lemon-peel finely minced, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 4 pint of
water, nearly 4 pint of good strong gravy, puff- crust.

Mode. — Cut the veal into nice square pieces, and put a layer of
them at the bottom of a pie-dish ; sprinkle over these a portion of the
herbs, spices, seasoning, lemon-peel, and the yolks of the eggs cut in
slices ; cut the ham very thin, and put a layer of this in. Proceed in
this manner until the dish is full, so arranging it that the ham comes
at the top. Lay a pufi-paste on the edge of the dish, and pour in about
4 pint of water ; cover with crust, ornament it with leaves, brush it
over with the yolk Of an egg, and bake in a well-heated oven for 1
to 14 hour, or longer, should the pie be very large. When it is taken
out of the oven, pour in at the top, through a funnel, nearly § pint of
strong gravy : this should be made sufficiently good that, when cold,
it may cut in a firm jelly. This pie may be very much enriched by
adding a few mushrooms, oysters, or sweetbreads ; but it will be found
very good without any of the last-named additions.

Time. — hour, or longer, should the pie be very large.

Average cost, 3s.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from March to October.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

423

POTTED VEAL (for Breakfast).

899. Ingbedients.— To every lb. of veal allow j lb. of ham,
cayenne and pounded mace to taste, 6 oz. of fresh butter ; clarified
butter.

Mode. — Mince the veal and ham together as finely as possible, and
pound well in a mortar, with cayenne, pounded mace, and fresh
butter in the above proportion. When reduced to a perfectly smooth
paste, press it into potting-pots, and cover with clarified butter. If
kept in a cool place, it will remain good some days.

Seasonable from March to October.

Names of Calves, &c. — During the time the young male calf is suckled by his
mother, he is called a bull- or ox-calf; when turned a year old, he iB called astirlr, stot, or
yearling ; on the completion of his second year, he is called a two-year-old bull or steer
(and in some counties a twinter) ; then, a three-year-old steer ; and at four, an ox or a
bullock, which latter names are retained till death. It may be here remarked, that the
term ox is used as a general or common appellation for neat cattle, in a specific sense, and
irrespective of sex ; as the British ox, the Indian ox. The female is termed cow, but
while sucking the mother, a cow-ealf ; at the age of a year, she is called a yearling quey ;
in another year, a heifer, or twinter ; then, a three-year-old quey or twinter ; and, at
four years old, a cow. Other names, to be regarded as provincialisms, may exist in
different districts.

RAGOUT OP COLD VEAL (Cold Meat Cookery).

900. Ingbedients. — The remains of cold veal, 1 oz. of butter, 4 pint
of gravy, thickening of butter and flour, pepper and salt to taste,

.1 blade of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup,

1 tablespoonful of sherry, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, force-
meat balls.

Mode. — Any part of veal will make this dish. Cut the meat into •
„ nice-looking pieces, put them in a stewpan with 1 oz. of butter, and
fry a light 'brown ; add the gravy (hot water may he substituted for
this), thicken with a little butter and flour, and stew gently about
y hour ; season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace; add the ketchup,
sherry, and lemon-juice ; give one boil, and serve. Garnish the dish
with forcemeat balls and fried rashers of bacon.

Time. — Altogether 4 hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6 d.

Seasonable from March to October.

Note. — The above recipe may be varied, by adding vegetables, such as peas,
cucumbers, lettuces, green onions cut in slices, a dozen or two of green
gooseberries (not seedy), all of which should be fried a little with tlio meat,
.and then stewed in the gravy.

VEAL RISSOLES (Cold Meat Cookery).

•901. Ingbedients. — A few slices of cold roast veal, a few slices of

VEAL.

429

ham or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 tablespoonful ot
minced savoury herbs, 1 blade of pouuded mace, a very little grated
nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste, 2 eggs well beaten, bread crumbs.

Mode. — Mince the veal very finely with a little ham or bacon ; add
the parsley, herbs, spices, and seasoning ; mix into a paste with an
egg; form into balls or cones ; brush these over with egg, sprinkle
with bread crumbs, and fry a rich brown. Serve with brown gravy,
and garnish the dish with fried parsley.

Time— About 10 minutes to fry the rissoles.

Seasonable from March to October.

VEAL EOLLS (Cold Meat Cookery).

90a. Ingredients. — The remains of a cold fillet of veal, egg and
bread crumbs, a few slices of fat bacon, forcemeat No. 417-

Mode. — Cut a few slices from a cold fillet of veal i inch thick ; rub
them over with egg ; lay a thin slice of fat bacon over each piece ot
veal ; brush these with the egg, and over this spread the forcemeat
thinly ; roll up each piece tightly, egg and bread crumb them, and fry
them a rich brown. Serve with mushroom sauce or brown gravy.

Time.— 10 to 15 minutes to fry the rolls.

Seasonable from March to October.

SHOULDER OP VEAL, Stuffed and Stewed.

903. Ingredients. — A shoulder of veal, a few slices of ham or bacon,
forcemeat No. 417, 3 carrots, 2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, a
faggot of savoury herbs, 3 blades of pouuded mace, water, thickening
of butter and flour.

Mode. — Bone the joint by carefully detaching the meat from the
blade-bone on one side, and then on the other, being particular not to
pierce the skin ; then cut the bone from the knuckle, and take it out.
Fill the cavity whence the bone was taken with a forcemeat made by
recipe No. 417. Roll and bind the veal up tightly ; put it into a stew-
pan with the carrots, onions, seasoning, herbs, and mace ; pour in
just sufficient water to cover it, and let it stew very gently for about
5 hours. Before taking it up, try if it is properly done by thrusting
a larding-needle in it : if it penetrates easily, it is sufficiently cooked.
Strain and skim the gravy, thicken with butter and flour, give one
boil, and pour it round the meat. A few young carrots may be boiled
and placed round the dish as a garnish, and.^when in season, green
peas should always be served with this dish.

Time. — 5 hours. Average cost, 7 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable from March to October.

430

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

The Fattening of Calves.— The fattening of calves for Ibe market is m important
business in Lanarkshire or Clydesdale, and numbers of newly. dropped calves are
regularly carried there from the farmers of the adjacent districts, in order to be prepared
for the butcher. The mode of feeding them is very simple ; milk is the chief article of
their diet, and of this the calves require a sufficient supply from first to last. Added to
this, they must be kept in a well-aired place, neither too hot nor too cold, and freely
supplied with dry litter. It is usual to exclude the light, —at all events to a great degree
and to put within their reach a lump of chalk, which they are very fond of licking!
Thus fed, calves, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks, often attain a very large size ; viz., 18 to 20
stone, exclusive of the offal. Far heavier weights have occurred, and without any dete-
rioration in the delicacy and richness of the flesh. This mode of feeding upon milk
alone at first appears to be very expensive, but it is not so, when all things are taken
into consideration ; for at the age of 9 or 10 weeks a calf, originally purchased for 8
shillings, will realize nearly the same number of pounds. For 4, or even 0 weeks, the
milk of one cow is sufficient,— indeed half that quantity is enough for the firat fortnight ;
but after the 5th or 6th week it will consume the greater portion of the milk of two
moderate cows; but then it requires neither oil-cake nor linseed, nor any other food.
Usually, however, the calves are not kept beyond the age of 0 weeks, and will then
sell for 5 or 6 pounds each : the milk of the cow is then ready for a successor. In this
manner a relay of calves may be prepared for the markets from early' spring to the end
of summer, a plan more advantageous than that of overfeeding one to a useless degree
of corpulency.

VEAL SAUSAGES.

904. Ingredients. — Equal quantities of fat bacon and lean veal ;
to every lb. of meat, allow 1 teaspoonful of minced sage, salt and
pepper to taste.

Mode. — Chop the meat and bacon finely, and to every lb. allow the
above proportion of very finely-minced sage ; add a seasoning of pepper
and salt, mix the whole well together, make it into flat cakes, and fry
a nice brown.

Seasonable from March to October.

STEWED VEAL, with. Peas, young Carrots, and new Potatoes.

905. Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lbs. of the loin or neck of veal, 15 young
carrots, a few green onions, 1 pint of green peas, 12 new potatoes, a
bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup.

Mode. — Dredge the meat with flour, and roast or bake it for about
3 hour : it should acquire a nice brown colour. Put the meat into
a stewpan with the carrots, onions, potatoes, herbs, pepper, and salt ;
pour over it sufficient boiling water to cover it, and stew gently for 2
hours. Take out the meat and herbs, put it in a deep dish, skim off
all the fat from the gravy, and flavour it with lemon-j nice, tomato
sauce, and mushroom ketchup in the above proportion. Have ready
a pint of green peas boiled separately ; put these with the meat, pour
over it the gravy, and serve. The dish may be garnished with a few
forcemeat balls. The meat, when preferred, may be cut into chops,

VEAL.

431

and floured and fried instead of being1 roasted ; and any part of veal
dressed in this way will be found extremely savoury and good.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, 9 d. per lb.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable, with peas, from J une to August.

BAKED SWEETBREADS (an Entree).

906. Ingredients.— 3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, oiled
butter, 3 slices of toast, brown gravy.

Mode. — Choose large white sweetbreads ; put them into warm water
to draw out the blood, and to improve their colour ; let them remain
for rather more than 1 hour ; then put
them into boiling water, and allow them
to simmer for about 10 minutes, which
renders them firm. Take them up, drain
them, brush over with egg, sprinkle
with bread crumbs ; dip them in egg again, and then into more
bread crumbs. Drop on them a little oiled butter, and put the sweet-
breads into a moderately-heated oven, and let them bake for nearly
f hour. Make 3 pieces of toast ; place the sweetbreads on the toast,
and pour round, but not over them, a good brown gravy.

Time. — To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, baked 40 minutes.

Average cost, Is. to 5s. Sufficient for an entree.

Seasonable. — In full season from May to August.

ERIED SWEETBREADS a la Maitre d’Hotel (an Entree).

907. Ingredients. — 3 sweetbreads, egg and bread crumbs, \ lb. of
butter, salt and pepper to taste, rather more than i pint of Maitre
d’hotel sauce No. 466.

Mode. — Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for an hour ; then boil
them for 10 minutes ; cut them in slices, egg and bread crumb them,
season with pepper and salt, and put them into a frying-pan, with the
above proportion of butter. Keep turning them until done, which
will be in about 10 minutes ; dish them, and pour over them a Maitre
d hotel sauce, made by recipe No. 406. The dish may be garnished
with slices of cut lemon.

lime. — To soak 1 hour, to be broiled 10 minutes, to be fried
about 10 minutes.

Average cost. Is. to 5s., according to the season.

Sufficient for an entree.

Seasonable. — In full season from May to August.

432

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

N ole.— The egg and bread crumb may be omitted, aud the slices of sweet-
broad dredged with a little flour instead, and a good gravy may be substituted
for the maitrc d’hOtel sauce. This is a very simple method of dressing
thorn.

STEWED SWEETBKEAD S (an Entree).

908. Ingredients.— 3 sweetbreads, 1 pint of white stock No. 107,
thickening of butter and flour, G tablespoon fuls of cream, 1 table-
spoonful of lemon -juice, 1 blade of pounded mace, white pepper and
salt to taste.

Mode. — Soak the sweetbreads in warm water for 1 hour, and boil
them for 10 minutes ; take them out, put them into cold water for a
few minutes : lay them in a stewpan with the stock, and simmer them
gently for rather more than 1 hour. Dish them ; thicken the gravy
with a little butter and flour ; let it boil up, add the remaining ingre-
dients, allow the sauce to get quite hot, but not boil, and pour it over
the sweetbreads.

Time. — To soak 1 hour, to be boiled 10 minutes, stewed rather
more than -i hour.

Average cost, from Is. to 5s., according to the season.

Sufficient for an entree.

Seasonable. — In full season from May to August.

Note. — A few mushrooms added to this dish, and stewed with the sweet-
breads, will be found an improvement.

Season and Choice op Teal. — Veal, like all other meats, has its season of plenty.
The best veal, and the largest supply, are to be had from March to the end of July. It
comes principally from the western counties, and is generally of the Alderney breed.
In purchasing veal, its whiteness and fineness of grain should be considered, the colour
being especially of the utmost consequence. Veal may be bought at all times of the year,
and of excehent quality, but is generally very dear, except in the months of plenty."

STEWED TENDEONS DE VEAU (an Entree).

909. Ingredients. — The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No.
107, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 2 blades of pounded mace, 4 cloves,
2 carrots, 2 onions, a strip of lemon-peel.

Mode. — The tendrons or gristles, which are found round the front
of a breast of veal, are now very frequently served as an entree, and
when well dressed, make a nice and favourite dish. Detach the
gristles from the bone, and cut them neatly out, so as not to spoil the
joint for roasting or stewing. Put them into a stewpan, with sufficient
stock, No. 107, to cover them ; add the herbs, mace, cloves, carrots,
onions, and lemon, and simmer these for nearly, or quite, 4 hours.
They should be stewed until a fork will enter the meat easily. Take
them up, drain them, strain the gravy, boil it down to a glaze, with

VEAL.

433

which glaze the meat. Dish the tendrons in a circle, with croutons
fried of a nice colour placed between each ; and put mushroom sauce,
or a puree of green peas or tomatoes, in the middle.

Time. — 4 hours. Sufficient for one entree.

Seasonable. — With peas, from June to August.

Cow-Pox, oe Variola. — It is to Dr. Jenner, of Berkeley, Gloucestershire, who died
in 1823, That we owe the practice of vaccination, as a preservative from the attack of
that destructive scourge of the human race, the small-pox. The experiments of this
philosophic man were begun in 1797, and published the next year. He had observed
that cows were subject to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that those
persons who became affected by it, while milking the cattle, escaped the small-pox
raging around them. This fact, known to farmers from time immemorial, led him to
a course of experiments, the result of which all are acquainted with.

TENDRONS DE VEATT (an Entree).

910. Ingredients. — The gristles from 2 breasts of veal, stock No.
107, 1 faggot of savoury herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 4 cloves,
2 carrots, 2 onions, a strip of lemon-peel, egg and bread crumbs,
2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste,

2 tablespoonfuls of sherry, the yolk of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of
cream.

Mode. — After removing the gristles from a breast of veal, stew
them for 4 hours, as in the preceding recipe, with stock, herbs, mace,
cloves, carrots, onions, and lemon-peel. When perfectly tender, lift
them out and remove any bones or hard parts remaining. Tut them
between two dishes, with a weight on the top, and when cold, cut
them into slices. Brush these over with egg, sprinkle with bread
crumbs, and fry a pale brown. Take i pint of the gravy they were
boiled in, add 2 tablespoo^t'uls of chopped mushrooms, a seasoning of
salt and pepper, the sherry, and the yolk of an egg beaten with

3 tablespoonfuls of cream. Stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens ;
when it is on the point of boiling, dish the tendrons in a circle, and
pour the sauce in the middle. Tendrons are dressed in a variety of
ways, — with sauce a l’Espagnole, vegetables of all kinds : when they
are served with a puree, they should always be glazed.

Time. — 44 hours. Average cost. — Usually bought with breast of veal.

Sufficient for an entree.

Seasonable from March to October.

TETE DE VEAU EN TORTTTE (an Entree).

911- Ingredients. — Half a calf’s head, or the remains of a cold
boiled one; rather more than 1 pint of good white stock, No. 107, 1 glass
of sherry or Madeira, cayenne and salt to taste, about 12 mushroom-

2 p

431

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

buttons (when obtainable), 6 hard-boiled eggs, 4 gherkins, 8 quenelles
or forcemeat balls, No. 422 or 423, 12 crayfish, 12 crodtons.

Mode. — Half a calf’s head is sufficient to make a good entree, and if
there are any remains of a cold one left from the preceding day, it
will answer very well for this dish. After boiling the head until
tender, remove the bones, and cut the meat into neat pieces ; put the
stock into a stewpan, add the wine, and a seasoning of salt and
cayenne ; fry the mushrooms in butter for 2 or 3 minutes, and add
these to the gravy. Boil this quickly until somewhat reduced ; then
put in the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs whole, the whites cut in
small pieces, and the gherkins chopped. Have ready a few veal
quenelles, made by recipe No. 422 or 423 ; add these, with the slices
of head, to the other ingredients, and let the whole get thoroughly
hot, without boiling. Arrange the pieces of head as high in the
centre of the dish as possible ; pour over them the ragout, and garnish
with the crayfish and crodtons placed alternately. A little of the
gravy should also be served in a tureen.

Time. — About \ hour to reduce the stock.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Average cost, exclusive of the calf’s head, 2s. 9d.

Seasonable from March to October.

A Frenchman’s Opinion of Veal. — A great authority ill his native Paris tells us,
that veal, as a meat, is but little nourishing, is relaxing, and sufficiently difficult of
digestion. Lending itself, as it does, he says, in all the flowery imagery of the French tongue
and manner, “ to so many metamorphoses, it may be called, without exaggeration, the
chameleon of the kitchen. Who has not eaten calf’s head au nafurel, simply boiled with
the skin on, its flavour heightened by sauce just a little sharp ? It is a dish as wholesome
as it is agreeable, and one that the most inexperienced cook may serve with success.
Calf’s feet a lapoulelte, au gratin, fried, &c. ; les cervelles, served in the same manner,
and under the same names ; sweetbreads en fricandeau, piques enfin, — all these oiler
most satisfactory entries, which the art of the cook, wore or less, varies for the grati-
fication of his glory and the well-being of our appetites. We have not spoken, in the
above catalogue, either of the liver, or of th a /raise, or of the ears, which also share the
honour of appearing at our tables. Where is the man not acquainted with calf’s liver
a la bourgeoite, the most frequent and convenient dish at unpretentious tables ? The /raise,
cooked in water, and eaten with vinegar, is a wholesome and agreerfble dish, and contains
a mucilage well adapted for delicate persons. Calf’s ears have, in common with the feet
and cervelles, the advantage of being able to be eaten either fried or a la poulette ; and
besides, can be made into a farce, with the addition of peas, onions, cheese, &c. Neither
is it confined to the calf’s tongue, or even the eyes, that these shull dispute alone the
glory of awakening the taste of man ; thus, the freseure (which, as is known, comprises
the heart, the inou, and the rate), although not a very recherche dish, lends itself to all
the caprices of an expert artist, and may, under various marvellous disguises, deceive,
and please, and even awaken our appetite.” — Verily, we might say, after this rhapsody of
our neighbour, that his country’s weal will not suffer in him as an able and eloquent
exponent and admirer.

VEAL.

435

YEAL CAKVING.

BREAST OP VEAL.

gia. The carving of a breast of veal is not dissimilar to that of a
fore-quarter of lamb, when the shoulder has been taken off. The
breast of veal consists of two parts, —
the rib-bones and the gristly brisket.

These two parts should first be sepa-
rated by sharply passing the knife
in the direction of the lines 1, 2 ;
when they are entirely divided, the
rib-bones should be carved in the
direction of the lines 5 to 6 ; and the brisket can be helped by cut-
ting pieces in the direction 3 to 4. The carver should ask the guests
whether they have a preference for the brisket or ribs ; and if there be
a sweetbread served with the dish, as it often is with roast breast of
veal, each person should receive a piece.

BREAST OF YEAL.

C ALP’S HEAD.

913. This is not altogether the most easy-looking dish, to cut
when it is put before a carver for the first time ; there is not much real
difficulty in the operation, however, when the
head has been attentively examined, and, after
the manner of a phrenologist, you get to know
its bumps, good and bad. In the first place,
inserting the knife quite down to the bone, cut
slices in the direction of the line 1 to 2 ; with
each of these should be helped a piece of what is called the throat
sweetbread, cut in the direction of from 3 to 4. The eye, and the
flesh round, are favourite morsels with many, and should be given to
those at the table who are known to be the greatest connoisseurs. The
jawbone being removed, there will then be found sffine nice lean ; and
the palate, which is reckoned by some a tit-bit, lies under the head.
On a separate dish there is always served the tongue and brains, and
each guest should be asked to take some of these.

2 p 2

calf’s head.

436

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKBRY.

FILLET OP VEAL.

914- The carving of this joint is similar to that of a round of beef.

Slices, not too thick, in the direction of the line
1 to 2 are cut ; and the only point to be care-
iul about is, that the veal be evenly carved.
Between the flap and the meat the stuffing is
inserted, and a small portion of this should be
served to every guest. The persons whom the
host wishes most to honour should be aslccd if they like the delicious
brown outside slice, as this, by many, is exceedingly relished.

KNUCKLE OP VEAL.

KNUCKLE OF VEAL.

915. The engraving, showing the dotted line
from 1 to 2, sufficiently indicates the direction
which should be given to the knife in carving
this dish. The best slices are those from the
thickest part of the knuckle, that is, outside
the line 1 to 2.

LOIN OP VEAL.

916. As is the case with a loin of mutton, the careful jointing of
a loin of veal is more than half the battle in carving it. If the butcher
be negligent in this matter, he should be ad-
monished ; for there is nothing more annoying
or irritating to an inexperienced carver than
. to be obliged to turn his knife in all directions
to find the exact place where it should be
inserted in order to divide the bones. When
the jointing is properly performed, there is little difficulty in carrying
the knife down in the direction of the line 1 to 2. To each guest
should be given a piece of the kidney and kidney fat, which lie under-
neath, and are considered great delicacies.

LOIN or VEAL.

fiwwmi

CHAPTER XX.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS.

“ Birds, the free tenants of land, air, and ocean,

Their forms all symmetry, their motions grace ;

In plumage delicate and beautiful

Thiele without burthen, close as fishes’ scales,

Or loose as full-blown poppies to the breeze.”

The Pelican Island.

917. The Divisions op Birds are founded principally on their habits o
life, and the natural resemblance which their external parts, especially their
bills, boar to each other. According to Mr. Vigors, tSero are live orders, each
of which occupies its peculiar place on the surface of the globe ; so that the
air, the forest, the land, the marsh, and the water, has each its appropriate
kind of inhabitants. These are respectively designated as Birds op Prey,
Perchers, Walkers, Waders, and Swimmers ; and, in contemplating their
variety^ lightness, beauty, and wonderful adaptation to the regions they
severally inhabit, and the functions they are destined to perform in the grand
scheme of creation, our hearts are lifted with admiration at the exhaustless
ingenuity, power, and wisdom of Him who has, in producing them, so strikingly
“manifested His handiwork.” Not only these, however, but all classes of
animals, have their peculiar ends to fulfil ; and, in order that this may bo
effectually performed, they are constructed in such a manner as will enable
them to carry out their conditions. Thus the quadrupeds, that are formed to

438

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

tread the earth in common with man, are muscular and vigorous • and,
whether they have passed into the servitude of man, or are permitted to
range tho forest or the field, they still retain, in a high degree, the energies
with which they were originally endowed. Birds, on the contrary, are
generally feeble, and, therefore, timid. Accordingly, wings have been given
them to enable them to fly through the air, and thus elude the force which,
by nature, they are unable to resist*- Notwithstanding the natural tendency of all
bodies towards the centre of tho earth, birds, when raised in tho atmosphere,
glide through it with the greatest ease, rapidity, and vigour. There, they are
in their natural element, and can vary their course with tho greatest prompti-
tude— can mount or descend with the utmost facility, and can light on any
spot with the most perfect exactness, and without the slightest injury to
themselves.

918. The Mechanism which enables Birds to wing their course through
the air, is both singular and instructive. Their bodies are covered with
feathers, which are much lighter than coverings of hair, with which quadrupeds
are usually clothed. The feathers are so placed as to overlap each other, liko
the slates or the tiles on the roof of a house. They are also arranged from the
fore-part backwards ; by which the animals are enabled the more conveniently
to cut their way through the air. Their bones are tubular or hollow, and
extremely light compared with those of terrestrial animals. This greatly
facilitates then- rising from the earth, whilst their heads, being comparatively
small, their bills shaped like a wedge, their bodies slender, sharp below,
and round above, — all these present a union of conditions, favourable,
in the last degree, to cutting their way through the aerial element
to which they are considered as more peculiarly to belong. With all
these conditions, however, birds could not fly without wings. These, there-
fore, are the instruments by which they have the power of rapid locomotion,
and are constructed in. such a manner as to be capable of great expansion
when struck in a downward direction. If we except, in this action, the slight
hollow which takes place on the under-side, they become almost two planes.
In order that the downward action may be accomplished to the necessary
extent, tho muscles whi?h move the wings have been made exceedingly large ;
so large, indeed, that, in some instances, they have been estimated at not less
than a sixth of tho weight of the whole body. Therefore, when a bird is on
the ground and intends to fly, it takes a leap, and immediately stretching its
wings, strikes them out with great force. By this act these are brought
into an oblique direction, being turned partly upwards and partly horizontally
forwards. That part of the force which has the upward tendency is neutralized
by the weight of the bird, whilst the horizontal force serves to carry it
forward. The stroke being completed, it moves upon its wings, which, being
contracted and having their edges turned upwards, obviate, in a great measure,
the resistance of the air. When it is sufficiently elevated, it makos a second
stroko downwards, and tho impulse of the air again moves it forward. These
successive strokos may bo regarded as so many leaps taken in the ah. W hen

BIRDS.

439

the bird desires to direct its course to the right or the left, it strikes strongly
with the opposite wing, which impels it to the proper side. In the motions of
the animal, too, the tail takes a prominent part, and acts like the i-udder of
a ship, except that, instead of sideways, it moves upwards and downwards.
If the bird wishes to rise, it raises its tail ; and if to fall, it depresses it ; and,
whilst in a horizontal position, it keeps it steady. There ai-e few who have
not observed a pigeon or a crow preserve, for some time, a horizontal flight
without any apparent motion of the wings. This is accomplished by the bird
having already acquired sufficient velocity, and its wings being parallel to
the horizon, meeting with but small resistance from the atmosphere? If it
begins to fall, it can easily steer itself upward by means of its tail, till the
motion it had acquired is nearly spent, when it must be renewed by a few
more strokes of the wings. On alighting, a bird expands its wings and tail
fully against the air, as a ship, in tacking round, backs her sails, in order that
they may meet with all the resistance possible.

919. In the Construction oe the Eyes of birds, there is a peculiarity
necessary to their condition. As they pass a great portion of their lives
among thickets and hedges, they are provided for the defence of their eyes
from external injuries, as well as from the effects of the light, when flying in
opposition to the rays of the sun, vritli a nictating or winking membrane, which
can, at pleasure, be drawn over the whole eye like a curtain. This covering
is neither opaque nor wholly pellucid, but is somewhat transparent ; and it is
by its means that the eagle is said to be able to gaze at the sun. “In birds,”
says a writer on this subject, “ we find_ that the sight is much more piercing,
extensive, and exact, than in the other orders of animals. The eye is much
larger in proportion to the bulk . of the head, than in any of these. This is a
superiority conferred upon them not without a corresponding utility : it seems
even indispensable to their safety and subsistence. W ere this organ in birds
dull, or in the least degree opaque, they would be in danger, from the rapid-
ity of their motion, of striking against various objects in then- flight. In this
case their celerity, instead of being an advantage, would become an evil,
and their flight be restrained by the danger resulting from it. Indeed we
may consider the velocity with which an animal moves, as a sure indication
of the perfection of its vision. Among the quadrupeds, the sloth has its sight
greatly limited ; whilst the hawk, as it hovers in the air, can espy a lark
sitting on a clod, perhaps at twenty times the distance at which a man or a
dog could perceive it.”

920. Amongst the many peculiarities in the Construction op Birds,
not the least is the mode by which their respiration is accomplished. This is
effected by means of air-vessels, which extend throughout the body, and adhere
to the under-surface of the bones. These, by their motion, force the air
through tho true lungs, which are very small, and placed in the uppermost
part of the chest, and closely braced down to tho back and ribs. Tho lungs,
which are never expanded by air, are destined to the sole purpose of oxidizing

440

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

tho blood. In tho experiments made by Mr. John Hunter, to discover the
use of this general diffusion of air through the bodies of birds, ho found that it
prevents their respiration from being stopped or interrupted by the rapidity
of their motion through a resisting medium. It is well known that, in pro-
portion to celerity of motion, the air becomes resistive ; and were it possible for
a man to move with the swiftness of a swallow, as he is not provided with an
internal construction similar to that of birds, tho resistance of the air would
soon suffocate him.

921. Birds are Distributed oyer every part op the Globe, being
found in the coldest as well as the hottest regions, although some species are
restricted to particular countries, whilst others are widely dispersed. At
certain seasons of the year, many of them change their abodes, and migrate
to climates better adapted to their temperaments or modes of life, for a time,
than those which they leave. Many of the birds of Britain, directed by
an unerring instinct, take their departure from the island before the com-
mencement of wintei', and proceed to the more congenial warmth of Africa,
to return with the next spring. The causes assigned by naturalists for this
peculiarity are, either a deficiency of food, or the want of a secure asylum for
the incubation and nourishment of then- young. Their migrations are gene-
rally performed in large companies, and, in the day, they follow a leader,
which is occasionally changed. During the night, many of the tribes send
forth a continual cry, to keep themselves together ; although one would think
that tho noise which must accompany their flight would be sufficient for that
purpose. The flight of birds across the Mediterranean was noticed three
thousand years ago, as we find it said in the book of Numbers, in the Scrip-
tures, that “ There went forth a wind from the Lord, and brought quails
from the sea, and let them fall upon the camp, and a day’s journey round
about it, to the height of two cubits above the earth.”

922. If the Beauty of Birds were not a recommendation to their being
universally admired, their general liveliness, gaiety, and song would endear
them to mankind. It. appears, however, from accurate observations founded
upon experiment, that the notes peculiar to different kinds of birds are
altogether acquired, and that they are not innate, any more than language is
to man. The attempt of a nestling bird to sing has been compared to the
endeavour of a child to talk. The first attempts do not seem to possess the
slightest rudiments of the future song ; but, as the bird grows older and
becomes stronger, it is easily perceived to be aiming at acquiring the art of
giving utterance to song. Whilst the scholar is thus endeavouring to form
his notes, when he is once sure of a passage, he usually raises his tone, but
drops it again when he finds himself unequal to the voluntary task he has
undertaken. "Many well-authenticated facts,” says an ingenious writer,
"seem decisively to prove that birds have no innate notes, but that, like
mankind, the language of those to whose care they have boon committed at
their birth, will be their language in after-life.” It would appear, however,

BIRDS.

441

somewhat unaccountable why, in a wild state, the)' adhere so steadily to the
song of their own species only, when the notes of so many others are to be
heard around them. This is said to arise from the attention paid by the
nestling bird to the instructions of its own parent only, generally disregarding
the notes of all the rest. > Persons, however, who have an accurate ear, and
who have given their attention to the songs of birds, can frequently distinguish
some which have their notes mixed with those of another species ; but this is
in general so trifling, that it can hardly be considered as more than the mere
varieties of provincial dialects.

923. In Reference to the Food of Birds, we find that it varies, as
it does in quadrupeds, according to the species. Some are altogether car-
nivorous ; others, as so many of the web-footed tribes, subsist on fish ;
others, again, on insects and worms ; and others on grain and fruit. The
extraordinary powers of the gizzard of the granivorous tribes, in comminuting
then- food so as to prepare it for digestion, would, were they not supported by
incontrovertible facts founded on experiment, appear to exceed all credibility.
Tin tubes, full of grain, have been forced into the stomachs of turkeys, and in
twenty-four hours have been found broken, compressed, and distorted into
every shape. Twelve small lancets, very sharp both at the point and edges,
have been fixed in a ball of lead, covered with a case of paper, and given to a
turkey-cock, and left in its stomach for eight horns. After that time the
stomach was opened, when nothing appeared except the naked ball. The
twelve lancets were broken to pieces, whilst the stomach remained perfectly
sound and entire. From these facts, it is concluded that the stones, so
frequently found in the stomachs of the feathered tribes, are highly useful
in assisting the gastric juices to grind down the grain and other hard
substances which constitute their food. The stones, themselves, being also
ground down and separated by the powerful action of the gizzard, are mixed
with the food, and, no doubt, contribute very greatly to the health, as well as
to the nourishment of the animals.

924. All Birds being Oviparous, the eggs which they produce after the
process of incubation, or sitting for a certain length of time, are, in the
various species, different both in figure and colour, as well as in point of
number. They contain the elements of the future young, for the perfecting
of which in the incubation a bubble of air is always placed at the large end,
between the shell and the inside skin. It is supposed that from the heat
communicated by the sitting bird to this confined air, its spring is increased
beyond its natural tenor, and, at the same time, its parts are put into motion
by the gentle rarefaction. By this means, pressure and motion are communi-
cated to the parts of the egg, which, in some inscrutable way, gradually
promote the formation and growth of the young, till the time comes for its
escaping from the shell. To preserve an egg perfectly fresh, and even fit for
incubation, for 5 or 6 months after it has been laid, Reaumur, the French
naturalist, has shown that it is only necessary to stop up its pores with a slight
coating of varnish or mutton-suet.

. 442

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

925 • Birds, however, do not lay eggs before they have some place to put
them ; accordingly, they construct nests for themselves with astonishing art.
As builders, they exhibit a degree of architectural skill, niceness, and pro-
priety, that would seem even to mock the imitative talents of man, however
greatly those are marked by his own high intelligence and ingenuity.

“Each circumstance
Most artfully contrived to favour warmth.

Here read the reason of the vaulted roof j
How Providence compensates, ever kind.

The enormous disproportion that subsists
Between the mother and the numerous brood
Which her small bulk must quicken into life."

In building their nests, the male and female generally assist each other,
and they contrive to make the outside of their tenement bear as great a
resemblance as possible to the surrounding foliage or branches ; so that it
cannot very easily be discovered even by those who are in search of it. This
art of niclifieation is one of the most wonderful contrivances which the wide
field of Nature can show, and which, of itself, ought to be sufficient to compel
mankind to the belief, that they and every other part of the creation, are con-
stantly under the protecting power of a superintending Being, whose benign
dispensations seem as exhaustless as they are unlimited.

RECIPES

CHAPTER XXI.

CHICKEN CUTLETS (an Entree).

926. Ingredients. — -2 chickens ; seasoning to taste of salt, white
pepper, and cayenne ; 2 blades of pounded mace, egg and bread
crumbs, clarified butter, 1 strip of lemon-rind, 2 carrots, 1 onion,
2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, thickening of butter and
floiu’, 1 egg.

Mode— Remove the breast and leg bones of the chickens ; cut the
meat into neat pieces after having skinned it, and season the cutlets
with pepper, salt, pounded mace, and cayenne. Put the bones,
trimmings, &c., into a stewpan with 1 pint of water, adding carrots,
onions, and lemon-peel in the above proportion ; stew gently for
H hour, and strain the gravy. Thicken it with butter and flour, add
the ketchup and 1 egg well beaten ; stir it over the fire, and bring it to
the simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil. In the mean time,
egg and bread-crumb the cutlets, and give them a few drops of
clarified butter ; fry them a delicate brown, occasionally turning
them ; arrange them pyramidically on the dish, and pour over them
the sauce.

Time. — 10 minutes to fry the cutlets. Average cost, 2s. each.

Sufficient for an entree.

Seasonable from April to July.

Fowls as Food. — Brillat Savarin, pre-eminent in gastronomic taste, says that lie
believes the whole gallinaceous family was made to enrich our larders and furnish our
tables; for, from the quail to the turkey, he avers their flesh is a light aliment, full of
flavour, and iitted equally well for the invalid as for the man of robust health. The fine
flavour, however, which Nature has given to all birds coming under the definition of
poultry, man has not been satisfied with, and has usqd many means — such as keeping
them in solitude and darkness, and- forcing them to eat — to give them an unnatural
state of fatness or fat. This fat, thus artificially produced, is doubtless delicious, and
the taste and succulence of the boiled and roasted bird draw forth the praise of the

411

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOK1GIV.

attests around the table. Well-fattened and tender, a fowl is to the eook'what the
canvas is to the pninter; for do we not see it served boiled, roasted, fried, fricasseed,
hashed, hot, cold, whole, dismembered, boned, broiled, stuffed, on dishes, and in pies,—
always handy and ever acceptable ?

Tub Common on Domestic Fowl.— From time immemorial, the common or domestic
fowl hiiB been domesticated in England, mid is supposed to bo originally the offspring of
some wild species which abound in the forests 01 India. It is divided into a variety of
breeds, but the most esteemed are, the Poland or Black, the Dorking, the Bantam, the
Gamo Fowl, and the Malay or Chittagong. The common, or barn-door fowl, ib one of the
most delicate of the varieties ; and at Dorking, in Surrey, the breed is brought to great
perfection. Till they are four months old, the term chicken is applied to the young
female ; after that age they are called pullets, till they begin to lav, when they are called
hens. The English counties most productive in poultry arc Surrey, Sussex, Norfolk,
Herts, Devon, and Somerset.

FRENCH CHICKEN CUTLETS (Cold Meat Cookery).

927* Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, fried
bread, clarified butter, tbe yolk of 1 egg, bread crumbs, \ teaspoonful
of finely-minced lemon-peel ; salt, cayenne, and mace to taste. Tor
sauce, — 1 oz. of butter, 2 minced shalots, a few slices of carrot, a
small bunch of savoury herbs, including- parsley, 1 blade of pounded
mace, 6 peppercorns, l pint of gravy.

Mode. — Cut the fowls into as many nice cutlets as possible ; take a
corresponding number of sippets about the same size, all cut one shape ;
fry them a pale brown, put them before the fire, then dip the cutlets
into clarified butter mixed with the yolk of an egg, cover with bread
crumbs seasoned in the above proportion, with lemon-peel, mace,
salt, and cayenne; fry them for about 5 minutes, put each piece on
one of the sippets, pile them high in the dish, and serve with the
following sauce, which should be made ready for the cutlets. Put
the butter into a stewpan, add the shalots, carrot, herbs, mace, and
peppercorns; fry -for 10 minutes or rather longer ; pour in 5 pint of
good gravy, made of the chicken bones, stew gently for 20 minutes,
strain it, and serve.

Time. — 5 minutes to fry the cutlets; 35 minutes to make the
gravy.

Average cost, exclusive of the chicken, 9 d.

Seasonable from April to July.

Eggs fob Hatching. — Eggs intended for batching should be removed as soon as laid,
and placed in bran in a dry, cool place. Choose those that are neur of a size ; and, as a
rule, avoid those that arc equally thick at both ends, — such, probably, contain a double
yolk, and will come to no good. Eggs intended lor hatching should never be stored
longer than a month, as much less the better. Nine eggs may bo placed under a Bantam
lien, and as many as fifteen under a Dorking. The odd number is considered preferable, ns
more easily packed. It will be as well to mark the eggs you give the hen to sit on, so that
you may know if she lays any more : if she does, you must remove them ; for, if hatched
at all, they w-ould be too late for the brood. If during incubation an egg should be
broken, remove it, and take out the remainder, and cleanse them in luke-warm water,
or it is probablo t he sticky nature of the contents of the broken egg will make the others
cling to the hen’s feathers ; and they, too, may be fractured.

Huns Sitting. — Somo liens are very capricious as regards sitting ; they will make a
great fuss, and keep pining for the nest, and, when they are permitted to take to it, they

MODERN MODE OF SERVING DISHES.

POULTRY.

445

will sit just long enough to addlo the eggs, and then they ro off again. The safest way
to <uiard against such annoyance, is to supply the hen with some hard-boiled eggs ; n she
sits on them a reasonable time, and seems steadily inclined, like a good matron, you may
then give her proper eggs, and let her set about the business in earnest.

CHICKEN OB FOWL FATTIES.

928. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast chicken or fowl;
to every 3 lb. of meat allow 2 oz. of ham, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream,

2 tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, -5 teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel ;
cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste ; 1 tablespoonful of lemon-j nice,

1 oz. of butter rolled in flour ; puff paste.

Mode. — Mince very small the white meat from a cold roast fowl,
after removing all the skin ; weigh it, and to every 3 lb. of meat
allow the above proportion of minced ham. Put these into a stewpan
with the remaining ingredients, stir over the fire for 10 minutes or

3 hour, taking care that the mixture does not burn. Roll out some
puff paste about \ inch in thickness ; line the patty-pans with this,
put upon each a small piece of bread, and cover with another layer
of paste ; brush over with the yolk of an egg, and bake in a brisk
oven for about I hour. When done, cut a round piece out of the top,
and, with a small spoon, take out the bread (be particular in not
breaking the outside border of the crust), and fill the patties with
the mixture.

Time. — 3 hour to prepare the meat ; not quite 3 hour to bake the
crust.

Seasonable at any time.

Hatching. — Sometimes the cliick within the shell is unable to break away from its
prison ; for the white of the egg will occasionally harden in the air to the consistence of
joiners' glue, when the poor chick is in a terriblo fix. An able writer says, “ Assistance
in hatching must not be rendered prematurely, and thence unnecessarily, but only in
the case of the chick .being plainly unable to release itself; then, indeed, an addition may
probably be made to the brood, as great numbers are always lost in this way. The chick
makes a circular fracture at the big end of the egg, and a section of about one-third of
the length of the shell being separated, delivers the prisoner, provided there is no
obstruction from adhesion of the body to the membrane which lines the shell. Between
the body of the chick and the membrane of the shell there exists a viscous fluid, the
white of the egg thickened with the intense heat of incubation, until it becomes a positive
glue. When this happens, the feathers stick fast to the shell, and the chicks remain
confined, and must perish, if not released."

The method of assistance to be rendered to chicks which have a difficulty in re-
leasing themselves from the shell, is to take the egg in the hand, and dipping the linger
or a piece of linen rag in warm water, to apply it to the fastened parts until they are
loosened by' the gluey substance becoming dissolved and separated from the feathers. '
The chick, then, being returned to the nest, will extricate itself, — a mode generally to be
observed, since, if violence were used, it would prove fatal. Nevertheless, breaking the
shell may sometimes be necessary ; and separating with the fingers, as gently ns may be,

( he membrane from the feathers, which are still to be moistened as mentioned above, to
facilitate the operation. The points of small scissors may be useful, and when there is
much resistance, as also apparent pain to the bird, the process must be conducted in
the gentlest manner, and the shell separated into a number of small pieces. The signs
ol a need of assistance are the egg being partly pecked and chipped, and the chick
discontinuing its efforts for live or six hours. Weakness from cold may disable the
chicken from commencing the operation of pecking the shell, which must then be
artificially performed with a circular fracture, such as is made by the bird itself.

440

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

CHICKEN OR FOWL PIE.

929. Ingredients.— 2 small fowls or 1 large one, white pepper and
salt to taste, £ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, £ teaspoonful of pounded^
mace, forcemeat No. 417, a few slices of ham, 3 hard-boiled eggs, £
pint of water, puff crust. .

Mode. — Skin and cut up the fowls into joints, and put the neck,
leg, and backbones in a stewpan, with a little water, an onion, a
bunch of savoury herbs, and a blade of mace ; let these stew for
about an hour, and, when done, strain off the liquor: this is for'
gravy. Put a layer of fowl at the bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer
of ham, then one of forcemeat and hard-boiled eggs cut in rings ;
between the layers put a seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, pepper,
and salt. Proceed in this manner until the dish is full, and pour in
about £ pint of water ; border the edge of the dish with puff crust, put
on the cover, ornament the top, and glaze it by brushing over it the yolk
of an egg. Bake from 1 £ to l£ hour, should the pie be very large, and,
when done, pour in, at the top, the gravy made from the bones. If to
be eaten cold, and wished particularly nice, the joints of the fowls
should be boned, and placed in the dish with alternate layers of force-
meat ; sausage-meat may also be substituted for the forcemeat, and is
now very much used. When the chickens are boned, and mixed with
sausage-meat, the pie will take about 2 hours to bake. It should be
covered with a piece of paper when about half-done, to prevent the paste
from being dried up or soorched.

Time. — Por a pie with unboned meat, If to if hour ; with boned
meat and sausage or forcemeat, if to 2 hours.

Average cost, with 2 fowls, 6s. 6 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

The Young Chicks. — The chiolis that are hatched first shotdd he taken from under-
neath the hen, lest she might think her task at an end, and leave the remaining eggs
to spoil. As soon as the young birds are taken from the mother, they must be placed
in a casket lined with soft wool, flannel, or hay, and stood in the sunlight if it be summer
time or by the fire if the weather be cold. It is a common practice to cram young
chicks with food as soon as they are born. This is quite unnecessary. They will, so
long as they arc kept warm, come to no harm if they take no food for twenty-four hours
following their birth. Should the whole of the brood not be hatched by that time, those
that are born may bo fed with bread soaked in milk, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg.

POTTED CHICKEN OR FOWL (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish).

930. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast chicken ; to every
lb. of meat allow f lb. of fresh butter, salt and oayenne to taste,
1 teaspoonful of pounded mace, £ small nutmeg.

Mode.— Strip the meat from the bones of cold roast fowl ; when it is
freed from gristle and skin, weigh it, and, to every lb. of meat, allow

POOLTHY.

447

the above proportion of blitter, seasoning, and spices. Cut the meat
into small pieces, pound it well with the fresh butter, sprinkle in
the spices gradually, and keep pounding until reduced to a per-
fectly smooth paste. Put it into potting-pots for use, and cover it
with clarified butter, about £ inch in thickness, and, if to be kept for
some time, tie over a bladder : 2 or 3 slices of ham, minced and pounded
with the above ingredients, will be found an improvement. It should
be kept in a dry place.

Seasonable at any time.

Feeding and Cooping the Chicks. — When all the chicks are hatched, they should
be placed along with the mother under a coop in a warm dry spot. If two hens happen
to have their broods at the same time, their respective chicks should be carefully kept
separate ; as, if they get mixed, and so go under the wrong coop, the hens will probably
maim and destroy those who have mistaken their dwelling. After being kept snug
beneath the coop for a week (the coop should be placed under cover at nightfall), the
chicks may be turned loose for an hour or so in the warmest part of the day. They
should be gradually weaned from the soaked bread and chopped egg, instead of which
grits or boiled barley should be given ; in 8 or 10 days their stomachs will be strong
enough to receive bruised barley, and at the end of 3 weeks, if your chicks be healthy,
they will be able to take care of themselves. It will be well, however, to keep your eye
on them a week or so longer, as the elder chickens may drive them from their food.
Great care should be taken that the very young chicks do not run about the wet ground
or on damp grass, as this is the most prominent and fatal cause of disease. While
under the coop with their mother, a shallow pan or plate of water should be supplied
to the chicks, as in a deeper vessel they are liable to drench themselves and take cold,
or possibly to get drowned.

CHICKEN OB FOWL SALAD.

931. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast or boiled chicken,
2 lettuces, a little endive, 1 cucumber, a few slices of boiled beetroot,
salad-dressing No. 506.

Mode. — Trim neatly the remains of the chicken ; wash, dry, and
slice the lettuces, and place in the middle of a dish ; put the pieces of
fowl on the top, and pour the salad-dressing over them. Garnish the
edge of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in rings, sliced cucumber,
and boiled beetroot cut in slices. Instead of cutting the eggs in rings,
the yolks may be rubbed through a hair sieve, and the whites chopped
very finely, and arranged on the salad in small bunches, yellow and
white alternately. This should not be made long before it is wanted
for table.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Age and Flavour of Chickens. — It has been the opinion of the medical faculty
of all ages and all countries, that the flesh of the young chicken is the most delicate
and easy to digest of all animal food. It is less alkalescent than the flesh of any
other animal, and its entire freedom from any irritating quality renders it a fit dish
lor the ailing, or those whose stomachs are naturally weak. In no animal, however
does age work such a change, in regard to tho quality of its flesh, as it does in domestic

“• ,ln “*elr infancy, cocks and hens are equally tender and toothsome ; but as time
overtakes them, it is the cock whose flesh toughens first. A year-old cook, indeed, is fit

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

•148

for little else than to be converted into soup, while a hen at the same age, although
sufficiently substantial, is not callous to the insinuations of a carving-knife. As regards
capons, however, the rule respecting age does not hold good. There is scarcely to be
found a more delicious animal than a well-fed, well-dressed capon. Age does not dry up
his juices ; indeed, like wine, he seems but to mellow. At three years old, even, he is as
tender as a chick, with the additional advantage of his proper chicken flavour being
fully developed. The above remarks, however, concerning the capon, only apply to such
as are naturally fed, and not crammed. The latter process may produce a handsomc-
loolcing bird, and it may weigh enough to satisfy the whim or avarice of its stuffier ; but,
when before the fire, it will reveal the cruel treatment to which it has been subjected,
and will weep a drippingpan-ful of fat tears. You will never And heart enough to
place such a grief-worn guest at the head of your table. It should bo borne in mind as
a rule, that small-boned and short-legged poultry are likely to excel the contrary sort
in delicacy of colour, flavour, and fineness of flesh.

HASHED DUCK (Cold Meat Cookery).

932. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast duck, rather more
than 1 pint of weak stock or water, 1 onion, 1 oz. of butter, thickening
of butter and flour, salt and cayenne to taste, % teaspoonful of minced
lemon-peel, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, i glass of port wine.

Mode. — Cut the duck into nice joints, and put the trimmings into
a stewpan ; slice and fry the onion in a little butter ; add these to the
trimmings, pour in the above proportion of weak stock or water, and
stew gently for 1 hour. Strain the liquor, thicken it with butter and
flour, season with salt and cayenne, and add the remaining ingre-
dients ; boil it up and skim well ; lay in the pieces of duck, and let
them get thoroughly hot through by the side of the fire, but do not allow
them to boil : they should soak in the gravy for about i hour. Garnish
with sippets of toasted bread. The hash may be made richer by using
a stronger and more highly-flavoured gravy ; a little spice or pounded
mace may also be added, when their flavour is liked.

Time. — li hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold duck, id.

Seasonable from November to February; ducklings from May to
August.

The Duck.— This bird belongs to the order of Natatores, or Swimmers; the most
familiar tribes of which are ducks, swans, geese, auks, penguins, petrels, pelicans, guille-
mots, gulls, and terns. They mostly live in the water, feeding on hsh, worms, and aquatic
plants. They are generally polygamous, and maltfc their nests among reeds, or in moist
places. The ilesh of many of the species is eatable, but that of some is extremely rank and
oily. The duck is a native of Britain, but is found on the margins of most of the European
lakes. It is excessively greedy, aud by no means a nice feeder. It requires a mixture
of vegetable and animal food ; but aquatic insectB, corn, and vegetables, are its proper
food. Its flesh, however, is savoury, being not so gross as that of the goose, and of
easier digestion. In the green-pea season it is usually found on an English table; but,
according to tide, “ November is its proper season, when it is plump and fat.”

TO RAGOUT A DUCK WHOLE.

933. Ingredients.— 1 large duck, pepper and salt to taste, good
beef gravy, 2 onions sliced, 4 sage -leaves, a few leaves of lemon thyme,
thickening of butter and flour.

Mode. — After having emptied and singed the duck, season it inside
with pepper aud salt, and truss it. Roast it before a clear fire for

rouLinr.

449

about 20 minutes, and let it acquire a nice brown colour. Put it into
a stewpan with sufficient well-seasoned becf_ gravy to cover it ; slice
and fry the onions, and add these, with the sage-leaves and lemon
thyme, both of which should be finely minced, to the stock. Simmer
gently until the duck is tender ; strain, skim, and thicken the gravy
with a little butter and flour ; boil it up, pour over the duck, and
serve. When in season, about li pint of young green peas, boiled
separately, and put in the ragout, very much improve this dish.

Time. — 20 minutes to roast the duck ; 20 minutes to stew it.

Average cost, from 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6 d. each.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. ,

Seasonable from November to February ; ducklings from April to
August.

The Buenos Aybes Duck.— The Buenos Ayres duck is of Enst-Indian birth, and is
chiefly valuable as an ornament ; for we sup-
pose one would as soon think of picking a
Chinese teal for luncheon, or a gold, flsh for
breakfast, as to consign the handsome Buenos
Ayres to the spit. The prevailing colour of
this bird is black, with a metallic lustre, and
a gleaming of blue steel about its breast and •
wings.

Varieties op Ducks. — Naturalists count
nearly a hundred different species of ducks ;
and there is no doubt that the intending keeper
of these harmless and profitable birds may
easily take his choice tom amongst twenty
different sorts. There is, however, so little
difference in the various members of the
family, either as regards hardiness, laying,
or hatching, that the most incompetent fancier or breeder may indulge his taste without
danger of making a bad bargain. In connection with their value for table, light-coloured
ducks are always of milder flavour than those that are dark-coloured, the white Ayles-
bury’s being general favourites. Ducks reared exclusively on vegetable diet will have a
whiter and more delicate flesh than those allowed to feed on animal offal; while the flesh
of birds fattened on the latter food, will be firmer than that of those which have only
partaken of food of a vegetable nature.

BOAST DUCKS.

934- Ingredients. — A couple of ducks; sage-and-onion stuffing
No. 504 ; a little flour.

Choosing and Trussing.-— Choose ducks with plump bellies, and with
thick and yellowish feet. They should be trussed with the feet on,
which should be scalded, and the skin peeled off, and then turned up
close to the legs. Run a skewer through the middle of each leg, after
having drawn them as close as possible to the body, to plump up the
breast, passing the same quite through the body. Cut off the heads
and necks, and the pinions at the first joint; bring these close to the
sides, twist the feet round, and truss them at the back of the bird.
After the duck is stuffed, both ends should be secured with string, so
as to keep in the seasoning.

Mode. — To insure ducks being tender, never dress them the

2 o

BUENOS AYRES DUCKS.

same

450

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

day they are killed ; and if the weather permits, they should hang a
day or two. Make a stuffing of sage and onion sufficient for one duck,
and leave the other unseasoned, as the flavour is not liked by every-
body. Put them down to a brisk clear
lire, and keep them well basted the
whole of the time they are cooking. A
few minutes before serving, dredge them
lightly with flour, to make them froth
and look plump ; and when the steam draws towards the lire, send
them to table hot and quickly, with a good brown gravy poured
round, hut not over the ducks, and a little of the same in a tureen.
When in season, green peas should invariably accompany this dish.

Time- Full-grown ducks from £ to 1 hour ; ducklings from 25 to
35 minutes.

Average cost, from 2s. 3 cl. to 2s. Gd. each.

Sufficient, — A couple of ducks for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable. — D ucklings from April to August ; ducks from [November
to February.

Note.— Ducklings are trussed and roasted in the same manner, and served with
the same sauces and accompaniments. When in season, serve apple sauce.

The Rouen Duck. — The Rouen, or Rhone duclc, is a large and handsome variety, of
French extraction. The plumage of the Rouen duck is somewhat sombre ; its flesh is

also much darker, and, though of higher
flavour, not near so delicate as that of
our own Aylesbury. It is with this latter
breed that the Rouen duck is generally
mated j and the result is said to be in-
crease of size and strength. In Nor-
mandy and Brittany these ducks, as well
as other sorts, greatly abound ; and the
“ duck-liver pdtls" are there almost as
popular as the pate de foie gras of Stras-
burg. In order to bring the livers of
the wretched duck to the fashionable and
unnatural size, the same diabolical cruelty
is resorted to as in the case of the Stras-
burg goose. The poor birds are nailed
by the feet to a board placed close to a
eouen ducks. fire, and, in thatposition, plentifully sup-

plied with food and water. In a few days,
the carcase is reduced to a mere shadow, while the liver has grown monstrously. We
would rather abstain from the acquaintance of a man who ate paid de foie gras,
knowing its component parts.

Duck’s Eggs. — The ancient notion that ducks whose beaks have a tendency to curve
upwards, are better layers than those whose beaks do not thus point, is, we need
hardly say, simply absurd: all ducks are good layers, if they are carefully fed and
tended. Ducks generally lay at night, or early in the morning. While they are iu
perfect health, they will do this ; and one of the surest signs of indisposition, among birds
of thiB class, is irregularity iu laying. The eggs laid will approach nearly the colour of
the layer, — light-coloured ducks laying white eggs, and brown ducks greenish-blue eggs ;
dark-coloured birds laying the largest eggs. One time of day the notion was prevalent
that a duck would hatch no other eggs than her own ; and although this is not true, it
will be, nevertheless, as well to match the duck’s own eggs as closely as possible ; for wo
have known instances wherein the duck has turned out of the nest and destroyed eggs
differing from her own in size and colour.

Duck?. — The Mallard, or Wild Duck, from whioh is derived the domeBtio species, is

POULTEY.

451

prevalent throughout Europe, Asia, and America. The mallard’s most remarkable
characteristic is one which sets at defiance the speculations of the moBt profound
ornithologist. The female bird is extremely plain, but the male’s plumage is a epleudour
of greens and browns, and browns and blues. In the spring, however, the plumage of
the male begins to fade, and in two months, every vestige of his finery has departed,
and he is not to be distinguished from his soberly-garbed wife. Then the greens, and
the blues, and the browns begin to bud ont again, and by October he is once more a
gorgeous drake. It is to be regretted that domestication has seriously deteriorated
the moral character of the duck. In a wild state, he is a faithful husband, desiring but
one wife, and devoting himself to her ; but no sooner is he domesticated than he becomes
polygamous, and makes nothing of owning ten or a dozen wives at a time. As regards
the females, they are much more solicitous for the welfare of their progeny in a wild
state than a tame. Should a tame duck’s duckling get into mortal trouble, its mother
will just signify her sorrow by an extra “ quack,” or so, and a flapping of her wings ; but
touch a wfld duck’s little one if you dare ! she will buffet you with her broad wings, and
dash boldly at your face with her stout beak. If you search for her nest amongst the long
grass, she will try no end of manoeuvres to lure you from it, her favourite ruse being
to pretend lameness, to delude you into the notion that you have only to pursue her
vigorously, and her capture is certain ; so you persevere for half a mile or so, and then
she is up and away, leaving you to find your way back to the nest if you can. Among
the ancients, opinion was at variance respecting the wholesomeness and digestibility of
goose flesh, but concerning the excellence of the duck all parties were agreed ; indeed,
they not only assigned to duck-meat the palm for exquisite flavour and delicacy, they
even attributed to it medicinal powers of the highest order. Not only the Eoman medical
writers of the time make mention of it, but likewise the philosophers of the period.
Plutarch assures us that Cato preserved his whole household in health, in a season when
plague and disease were rife, through dieting them on roast duck.

STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery).

935. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast duck, 2 oz. of butter,
3 or 4 slices of lean ham or bacon, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 2 pints of
thin gravy, 1, or a small bunch of green onions, 3 sprigs of parsley,
3 cloves, 1 pint of young green peas, cayenne and salt to taste, 1 tea-
spoonful of pounded sugar.

Mode. — Put the butter into a stewpan ; cut up the duck into joints,
lay them in -with the slices of lean bam or bacon ; make it brown, then
dredge in a tablespoonful of flour, and stir this well in before adding
the gravy. Put in the onion, parsley, cloves, and gravy, and when it
has simmered for j hour, add a pint of young green peas, and stew
gently for about i hour. Season with cayenne, salt, and sugar ; take
out the duck, place it round the dish, and the peas in the middle.

Time. — § hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold duck, Is.

Seasonable from June to August.

Ducks Hatching.— Concerning incubation by ducks, a practised writer says, “The
duck requires a secret and safe place, rather than any attendance, and will, at nature’s
call, cover her eggs and seek her food. On hatching, there is not often a necessity for
taking away any of the brood ; and, having hatched, let the mother retain -her young
ones upon the nest her own time. On her moving with her brood, let a coop be prepared
upon the short grass, if the weather be fine, and under shelter, if otherwise.”

Cooping and Feeding Ducklings. — Brood ducks should be cooped at some dis-
tance irom any other. A wide and flat dish of water, to be often renewed, should stand
just outside the coop, and barley, or any other meal, bo the first food of the ducklings.
It will be needful, if it be wet weather, .to clip their tails, lest these draggle, and so
weaken the bird. The period of the duck’s confinement to the coop will depend on tho
weather, and on the strength of tho ducklings. A fortnight is usually the extent of tune
necessary, and they may even be sometimes permitted to enjoy the luxury of tt swim at

2 G 2

452

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

t,he end of a week. They should not. however, be allowed to stay too long in the water
at first ; for they will then become iU, their feathers get rough, and looseness of the
bowels ensue. In the latter case, let them be closely cooped for a few davs, and bean-
meal or oatmeal be mixed with their Ordinary food.

TiieAylesbury Duck. — The white Aylesbury duck is, and deservedly, a universal
favourite. Its snowy plumage and comfortable comportment make it a credit to the

poultry-yard, while its broad and deep
breast, and its ample back, convey the
assurance that your satisfaction will not
cease at its death. In parts of Bucking-
hamshire, this member of the duck fa-
mily is bred on an extensive scale ; not
on plains and commons, however, as
might be naturally imagined, but in the
abodes of the cottagers. Round the walls
of the living-rooms, and of the bedroom
even, are fixed rows of wooden boxes,
lined with hay ; and it is the business of
the wife and children to nurse and com-
fort the feathered lodgers, to feed the
little ducklings, and to take the old ones
out for an airing. Sometimes the “stock"
ducks are the cottager's own property,
but it more frequently happens that they
are intrusted to his care by a wholesale
breeder, who pays him so much per score for all ducklings properly raised. To be
perfect, the Aylesbury duck should bo plump, pure white, with yellow feet, and a flesh-
coloured beak.

STEWED DUCK AND PEAS (Cold Meat Cookery).

936. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast duck, | pint of good
gravy, cayenne and salt to taste, i teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel,
1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of butter rolled in flour, ll pint
of green peas.

Mode. — Cut up the duck into joints, lay it in the gravy, and add a
seasoning of cayenne, salt, and minced lemon-peel ; let this gradually
warm through, hut not boil. Throw the peas into boiling water
slightly salted, and boil them rapidly until tender. Drain them, stir
in the pounded sugar, and the butter rolled in flour ; shake them over
the fire for two or three minutes, and serve in the centre of the dish,
with the duck laid round.

Time. — 15 minutes to boil the peas, when they are full grown.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold duck, 10 d.

Seasonable from June to August.

Fattening Ducks.— Many duck-keepers give their birds nothing in theshape offood,
letting them wander about and pick up a living for themselves; and they will seem to get
fat even upon this precarious feeding. Unless, however, ducks are supplied with, besides
chance food, a liberal feed of solid corn, or gram, morning and evening, their flesh will
become flabby and insipid. The simple way to falton ducks is to let them have as much
substantial food as they will eat, bruised oats and pea-meal being the standard fattening
food for them. No cramming is required, as with the turkey and some other poultry :
they will cram themselves to the very verge of suffocation. At the same time, plenty of
exercise and clean water should be at their service.

American Mode op Capturing Ducks. — On the American rivers, the modes of
capture are various. Sometimes half a dozen artificial birds are fastened to a little raft,
and which is so weighted that the sham birds squat naturally on tho water. This is quite
sufficient to attract tho notice of a passing flock, who descend to cultivate the acquaint-
ance of tho isolated few, when tho concealed hunter, with his lowling-pieee, scatters a

AYLESBURY DUCKS.

l'OULTRY.

453

deadly leaden sliowor amongst them. In the winter, when tho water is covered with
rubble ice, the fowler of the Delaware paints his cnnoo entirely white, lies flat m the
bottom of it, and floats with the broken ice; from which the aquatic inhabitants fail to
distinguish it. So floats the enuoe till ho within it understands, by the quacking, and
flut tering, and whirring of wings, that he is in the midst of a flock, when he is up in a
moment with the murderous piece, and dying quacks and lamentations rend the still air.

Sow-bill Ducks, &c. — Everyone knows how awkward are the Anatidai, waddling
along on their unelastic webbed toes, and their short legs, which, being placed consi-
derably backward, make the fore part
of the body preponderate. Some, how-
ever, are formed more adapted to terres-
trial habits than others, and notably
amongst these may be named Dendro-
nessa sponsa, the summer duck of Ame-
rica. This beautiful bird rears her young
in the holes of trees, generally overhang-
ing the water. When strong enough, the
young scramble to the mouth of the
hole, launch into the air with their little
wings and feet spread out, and drop into
their favourite element. AVhenever their
birthplace is at some distance from the
water, the mother carries them to it,
one by one, in her bill, holding them so
as not to injure their yet tender frame.

On several occasions, however, when the bow-bill ducks.

hole was 30, 40, or more yards from a

piece of water, Audubon observed that the mother suffered the young to fall on the
grass and dried leaves beneath the tree, and afterwards led them directly to the nearest
edge of the next pool or creek. There are some curious varieties of the domestic duck,
which only appear interesting from their singularity, for there does not seem to be
anything of use or value in the unusual characteristics which distinguish them ; thus,
the bow-bill duck, as shown in the engraving, called by some writers the hook-bill, is
remarkable for the peculiarly strange distortion of its beak, and the tuft on the top of
its head. The penguin duck, again, waddles in an upright position, like the penguin, on
account of the unnatural situation of its legs. These odd peculiarities add nothing of
value to the various breeds, and may be set down as only the result of accidental mal-
formation, transmitted from generation to generation.

STEWED DUCK AND TURNIPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

937- Ixgeedients. — The remains of cold roast duck, i pint of
good gravy, 4 shalots, a few slices of carrot, a small bunch of savoury
herbs, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 lb. of turnips, weighed after being
peeled, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to taste.

diode. — Cut up the duck into joints, fry the shalots, carrots, and
herbs, and put them, with the duck, into the gravy ; add the pounded
mace, and stew gently for 20 minutes or i hour. Cut about 1 lb. of
turnips, weighed after being peeled, into 4 -inch squares, put the
butter into a stewpan, and stew them till quite tender, which will be
in about 5 hour, or rather more ; season with pepper and salt, and
serve in the centre of the dish, with the duck, &e. laid round.

Time. — Rather more than | hour to stew the turnips.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold duck, Is.

Seasonable from November to February.

Tub Wild Duck. — In many parts of England the wild duck is to be found, especially
m those desolate fenny parts where water abounds. In Lincolnshire they are plentiful,
and are annually taken in the decoys, which consist of ponds situate in the marshes, and

454

MODERN nOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

surrounded with wood or reeds to prevent the birds which frequent them from, being
disturbed. In tlicso the birds sleop during the day ; and as soon as evening sets in, the
decoy rises, and the wild fowl feed during the night. Now is the time for the decoy
ducks to entrap the others. From the ponds diverge, in different directions, certain
canals, at the end of which i'unuol nets nro placed ; along these the decoy ducks, trained

for the purpose, lead the others in search of
food. After they have got a certain length, a
decoy-man appears, and drives them further
on, until they are finally taken in the nets. It
is from these decoys, in Lincolnshire, that the
. London marketis mostly supplied. TheChinese
have a singular mode of catching these ducks.
A person wades in the water up to the chin,
and, having his head covered with an empty
calabash, approaches the place where the ducks
are. As the birds have no suspicion of the
nature of the object which is concealed under
the calabash, they suffer its approach, and
allow it to move at will among their flock. The
. man, accordingly, walks about in the midst

of his game, and, whenever he pleases, pulls them by the legs under the water, and fixes
them to liis belt, until he has secured as many as he requires, and then moves olf as he
went amongst them, without exciting the slightest suspicion of the trick he has been
playing them. This singular mode of duck-hunting is also practised on the Ganges, the
earthen vessels of the Hindoos being used instead of calabashes. These vessels, being
those in which the inhabitants boil their rice, are considered, after once being used,
as defiled, and are accordingly thrown into the river. The duck-takers, finding them
suitable for their purpose, put them on their heads ; and as ihe ducks, from seeing them
constantly floating down the stream, are familiar with their appearance, they regard them
as objeetB from which no danger is to be expected.

CAM-DUCKS.

Duck-snares in the Lincolnshire Fens. — The following interesting account of
how duck-snaring used to be managed in the Lincolnshire fens, was published some-
years ago, in a work entitled the “Feathered Tribes.” — “ In the lakes to which they
resorted, their favourite haunts were observed, and in the most sequestered part of a
haunt, a pipe or ditch was cut across the entrance, decreasing gradually in width from
the entrance to the further end, which was not more than two feet wide. The ditch was
of a circular form, but did not bend much for the first ten yards. The banks of the
lake on each side of the ditch were kept clear of weeds and close herbage, in order that
the ducks might get on them to sit and dress themselves. Along the ditch, _poles were
driven into the ground close to the edge on each side, and the tops were bent over across
the ditch and tied together. The poles then bent forward at the entrance to the ditch,
and formed an arch, the top of which was ten feet distant from the surface of the water ;
the arch was made to decrease in height as the ditch decreased in width, so that the
remote end was not more than eighteen inches in height. The poles were placed about
six feet from each other, and comiected by poles laid lengthwise across the arch, aud tied
together. Over the whole was thrown a net, which was made fast to a reed fence at tho j
entrance and nine or ten yards up the ditch, aud afterwards strongly pegged to tho
ground. At the end of the ditch furthest from the entrance, was fixed what was called
a tunnel-net, of about four yards in length, of a round form, and kept open by a number J
of hoops about eighteen inches in diameter, placed at a small distance from each other I
to keep it distended. Supposing the circular bend of the ditch to be to the right, when
one stands with his back to the lake, then on the left-hand side, a number of reed fences I
were constructed, called shootings, for the purpose of screening the decoy-man from I
observation, aud, in such a manner, that the fowl in the decoy would not be alarmed
while he was driving those that were in the pipe. These shootings, which were ten in
number, were about four yards in length aud about six feet high. From tho end of tho
last shooting a person could not see the lake, owing to the bend of tho ditch ; and there
was then no further occasion for shelter. Were it not for these shootings, the fowl that ]
remained about the mouth of the ditch would have been alarmed, if the person driving
the fowl already under the net should have been exposed, and would have become so
shy as entirely to forsake the place.”

The Decoy-man, Dog-, and Duoks.— “ The first thing the decoy-man did, on ap- ,
proaching the ditch, was to take a piece of lighted peat or turf, and to hold it near |
his mouth, to prevout the birds from smelling him. Ho was attended by a do" trained
to render him assistance. He walked very silently about- hallway up the shootings,
where a small piece of wood was thrust through the reed fence, which made an aperture
just largo enough to enable him to sco if there were any fowl within ; if not, he walked

POULTRY.

455

to see if any were about the entrance to the ditch. If there -were, he stopped, made a
motion to his dog, and gave him a piece of cheese to eat, when the dog went directly to
a hole through the reed fence, and the birds immediately flew oft' the bank into the
water. The dog returned along the bank between the reed fences, and came out to his
master at another hole. The man then gave the dog something more to encourage him, and
the dog repeated his rounds, till the birds were attracted by his motions, and followed
him into tno mouth of the ditch — an operation which was called ‘ working them.’ The
man now retreated further back, working the dog at different holes, until the ducks
were sufficiently under the net. He then commanded his dog to lie down under the
fence, and going himself forward to the end of the ditch next the lake, he took off his
hat, and gave it a wave between the shootings. All the birds that were under the net
could then see him, but none that were in the lake could. The former flew' forward,
and the man then ran to tho next shooting, and waved his hat, and so on, driving them
alon" until they came into tho tunnel-net, into which they crept. When they were all
in, the man gave the net a twist, so as to prevent them getting bade. He then took the
net off from the end of the ditch, and taking out, one by one, the ducks that were in it,
dislocated their necks.”

BOILED FOWLS OB CHICKENS.

938. 'Ingredients. — A pair of fowls ; water.

Choosing and Trussing. — In choosing; fowls for boiling, it should bo
borne in mind that those that are not black-legged are generally much
whiter when dressed. Pick, draw, singe, wash, and truss them in the
following manner, without the livers in the wings ; and, in drawing, be
carefulnottobreakthe gall-bladder : — Cutoff theneck, leaving sufficient
skin to skewer back. Cut the feet off to the first joint, tuck the stumps
into a slit made on each side of the belly, twist the wings over the
back of the fowl, and secure the top of the leg and the bottom of the
wing together by running a skewer through them and the body. The
other side must be done in the same manner. Should the fowl be
very large and old, draw the sinews of the legs before tucking them in.
Make a slit in the apron of the fowl, large enough to admit the parson’s
. nose, and tie a string on the tops of the legs to keep them in their
proper place.

Mode. — When they are firmly trussed, put them into a stewpai^
with plenty of hot water ; bring it to boil, and carefully remove all
the scum as it rises. Simmer very
gently until the fowl is tender, and bear
in mind that the slower it boils, the
plumper and whiter will the fowl be.

Many cooks wrap them in a floured cloth
to preserve the colour, and to prevent
tho scum from clinging to them ; in this
case, a few slices of lemon should be placed on the breasts ; over these
a sheet of buttered paper, and then the cloth ; cooking them in this
manner renders the flesh very white. Boiled ham, bacon, boiled
tongue, or pickled pork, are the usual accompaniments to boiled
fowls, and they may be served with Bechamel, white sauce, parsley

BOILED FOWL.

45G

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and butter, oyster, lemon, liver, celery, or mushroom sauce. A little
should be poured over the fowls, after the skewers are removed, and
the remainder sent in a tureen to table.

Time. — Large fowl, 1 hour ; moderate-sized one, f hour ; chicken,
from 20 minutes to { hour. Average cost, in full season, Os. the pair.
Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable all the year, hut scarce in early spring.

The Game Fowl. — Respecting the period at which this well-known member of the
Qallus family became domesticated, history is silent. There is little doubt, however,
that, like the dog, it has been attached to mankind ever since mankind were attached to

civilization. Although the social posi-
tion of this bird is, at the present time,
highly respectable, it is nothing to what
it was when Rome was mistress of the
world. Writing at that period, Pliny
says, respecting the domestic cock,
“ The gait of the cock is proud and
commanding ; he walks with head erect
and elevated crest ; alone, of all birds,
he habitually looks up to the sky, raising,
at the same time, his curved and scythe-
formed tail, and inspiring terror in the
lion himself, that most intrepid of ani-
mals. * * They regulate the conduct
of our magistrates, and open or close to
them their own houses. They prescribe
rest or movement to the Roman fasces :
they command or prohibit battles. In
a word, they lord it over the masters of
the world.” As well among the ancient Greeks as the Romans, was the cock regarded
with respect, and even awe. The former people practised divinations by means of this
bird. Supposing there to be a doubt in the camp as to the fittest day to fight a battle,
the letter of every day in the week would be placed face downwards, ana a grain of
corn placed on each; then the sacred cock would be let loose, and, according to
the letters he pecked his corn from, so would the battle-time be regulated. On one
momentous occasion, however, a person inimical to priestly interest officiously examined
the grain, and found that those lying on the letters not wanted were made of wax, and
the birds, preferring the true grain, left these untouched. It is needless to add that,
after this, divination through the medium of cocks nnd grain fell out of fashion.
Whether or no the learned fowl above alluded to were of the “ game ” breed, is
unknown ; but that the birds were bred for the inhuman sport of fighting many
hundred years before the Christian era, there can be no doubt. Themistoeles, the
Athenian king, who flourished more than two thousand years ago, took advantage
of the sight of a pitched battle between two cocks to harangue his soldiers on
courage. “ Observe,” said he, “ with what intrepid valour they fight, inspired by
no other motive than love of victory ; whereas you have to contend for your
religion and your liberty, for your wives and children, and for the tombs of yrour
ancestors.” And to this day his courage has not degenerated. He still preserve's his
bold and elegant gait, his spariding eye, while his wedge-shaped beak nnd cruel spurs
are ever ready to support his defiant crow. It is no wonder that the breed is not
plentiful — first, on account of the few eggs laid by tho hen ; and, secondly, from the
incurable pugnacity of the chicks. Half-fledged broods may bo found blind as bats
from fighting, and only waiting for the least glimmer of sight to be at it again. Without
doubt, the flesh of game fouls is every way superior to that of every chicken of the
family.

GAME FOWLS.

BROILED FOWL AND MUSHROOM SAUCE.

939. Ingredients. — A large fowl, seasoning, to taste, of pepper and
salt, 2 handfuls of button mushrooms, 1 slice of lean ham, \ pint of
thickened gravy, 1 teaspoonful of lemon-juice, i teaspoonful of pounded
sugar.

POULTRY.

457

Mode.— Cut the fowl into quarters, roast it until three-parts done,
and 'keep it well basted whilst at the fire. Take the fowl up, broil it
for a few minutes over a clear fire, and season it with pepper and salt.
Have ready some mushroom sauce made in the following manner.
Put the mushrooms into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, the
ham, a seasoning of pepper and salt, and the gravy ; simmer these
gently for A hour, add the lemon -juice and sugar, dish the fowl, and
pour the sauce round them.

Time. — To roast the fowl, 35 minutes ; to broil it, 10 to 15 minutes.

Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6 cl.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable. — In full season from May to January.

The Bantam. — No one will dispute that for beauty, animation, plumage, and courage,
the Bantam is entitled to rank next to the game fowl. As its name undoubtedly implies,
the bird is of Asiatic origin. The choicest
sorts are the bulf-coloured, and those that
are entirely black. A year-old Bantam cock
of pure breed will not weigh more than six-
teen ounces. Despite its small size, however,
it is marvellously bold, especially in defence
of its progeny. A friend of the writer’s, re-
siding at Kensington, possessed a pair of
thorough-bred Bantams, that were allowed
the range of a yard where a fierce bull-terrier
was kennelled. The hen had chicks ; and,
when about three weeks old, one of them
strayed into the dog-kennel. The grim beast
withrn took no notice of the tiny fledgeling;

but, when the anxious mother ventured in to black bantams.

fetch out the truant, with a growl the dog

woke, and nearly snapped her asunder in his great jaws. The cock bird saw the tragic
fate of its partner ; but, nothing daunted, flew at the dog with a fierce cry, and peeked
savagely at its face. The odds, however, were too great; and, when the terrier had
sullicieutly recovered from the astonishment caused by the sudden and unexpected
attack, he seized the audacious Bantam, and shook him to death ; and, in five minutes,
the devoted couple wero entombed in Fincher’s capacious maw.

BOILED FOWL AND BICE.

940. Ingredients.— 1 fowl, mutton broth, 2 onions, 2 small blades
of pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste, \ pint of rice, parsley and
butter.

Mode. — Truss the fowl as for boiling, and put it into a stewpan with
sufficient clear well-skimmed mutton broth to cover it ; add the onion,
mace, and a seasoning of pepper and salt ; stew very gently for about
1 hour, should the fowl be large, and about -A hour before it is ready
put in the rice, which should be well washed and soaked. When the
latter is tender, strain it from the liquor, and put it on a sieve reversed
to dry before the fire, and, in the mean time, keep the fowl hot. Dish
it, put the rice round as a border, pour a little parsley and butter over
the fowl, and the remainder send to table in a tureen.

458

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time.— A large fowl, 1 hour. Average cost, in full season, 2s. G d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable all the year, hut scarce in early spring.

Tnn Dokkixo.— This bird takes its name from Unit of a town in Surrey where the
breed is to be found in grenlcr numbers, and certainly in greater perfection, than else-
where. It Is generally believed that this
particular branch of poultry was found
in the town above mentioned as long ago
as the Roman era. The Dorking’s chief
characteristic is that he has five claws
on each foot; the extra claw, however,
is never of sufficient length to encumber
the foot, or to cause it to “ drag ” its
nest, or scrat eh out the eggs. The colour
of the true Dorking is pure white ; long
in the body, short in the legs, and a
prolific layer. Thirty years ago, there
was much controversy respecting the ori-
gin of the Dorking. The men of Sussex
declared that the bird belonged to them,
and brought birds indigenous to their
weald, and possessing all the Dorking
fine points and peculiarities, in proof of
the declaration. Others inclined to the
belief that the Poland bird was the father of the Dorking, and not without at least a
show of ronson, ns the former bird much resembles the hitter in shape ; and, despite its
sombre hue, it is well known that the Poland cock will occasionally beget thorough
white stock from white English liens. The commotion has, however, fong ago subsided,
and Dorking still retains its lair reputation for fowl.

CTTRUIED FOWL.

941. Ingredients. — 1 fowl, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions sliced, 1 pint
of white veal gravy, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 1 tablespoon ful
of flour, 1 apple, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-
juice.

Mode. — Put the butter into a stewpan, with the onions sliced, the
fowl cut into small joints, and the apple peeled, cored, and minced.
Fry of a pale brown, add the stock, and stew gently for 20 minutes ;
rub down the curry-powder and flour with a little of the gravy, quite
smoothly, and stir this to the other ingredients ; simmer for rather
more than £ hour, and just before serving, add the above proportion of
hot cream and lemon-juice. Serve with boiled rice, which may either
be heaped lightly on a dish by itself, or put round the curry ns a
border.

Time.— 5 0 minutes. A verage cost , 3s. 2>d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable in the winter.

Note. — This curry may be made of cold chicken, but undressed meat will be
found far superior.

Tun Poland. — This bird, a native of Holland, is n great favourite with fowl-keepers,
cspccially#thosc who have an eye to profit rather than to nmnsement. Those varieties
known as the “silver spangled ’’ and tho “gold spangled" are handsome enough to
please the most fastidious ; but the common black breed, with the bushy crown of white
leathers, is but a plain bird. The cliief value of the eomrnou Poland lies in the great

DOEKINGS.

POULTRY,

459

number of eggs they produce ; indeed, in many parts, tliey aro as well known as
“everlasting layers” as by their proper name. However, the experienced brooder
would take good care to send tho eggs of
his everlasting layers to market, and not
use them for homo consumption, as,
although they may be as largo as those
laid by other hens, the amount of nutri-
ment contained in them is not nearly so
great. Mr. Mowbray onee kept an ac-
count of the number of eggs produced
by this prolific bird, with the following
result : — From the 25th of October to
the 25th of the following September five
hens laid 503 eggs ; the average weight
of each egg was one ounce five drachms,
and the total weight of the whole, exclu-
sive of the shells, 50J pounds. Taking
the weight of the birds at the fair average
of five pounds each, we thus see thern^
producing within a year double their
weight ot egg' alone; and, supposing
every egg to contain a chick, and allowing the eliiek to grow, in less than eighteen months
from the laying of the first egg, two thousand floe hundred pounds of chicken-meat would
be the result. The Poland is easily fattened, and its flesh is generally considered juicier
and of richer flavour than most others.

SPANGLED POLANDS.

CURRIED FOWL OR CHICKEH (Cold Meat Cookery).

942. Ingredients.— The remains of cold roast fowls, 2 large onions,
1 apple, 2 oz. of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of curry-powder, 1 teaspoonful
of Horn’, | pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

Mode. — Slice the onions, peel, core, and chop the apple, and cut
the fowl into neat joints; fry these in the butter of a nice brown;
then add the curry-powder, flour, and gravy, and stew for about
20 minutes. Put in the lemon-juice, and serve with boiled rice,
either placed in a ridge round the dish or separately. Two or three
shalots or a little garlic may be added, if approved.

Time. — Altogether I hour. Av. cost, exclusive of the cold fowl, Gel.

Seasonable in the winter.

TnE Cochin-China.— About fifteen years ago, the arrival of this distinguished Asiatic
created in England as great a sensation as might bo expected from the landing of an
invading host. The first pair that ever
made their appearance here were na-
tives of Shanghai, and were presented
to the queen, who exhibited them at the
Dublin poultry-show of 1816. Then began
the “ Cochin “furor. As soon as it was
discovered, despite the most strenuous
endeavours to keep the tremendous
secret, that a certain dealer was pos-
sessed of a pair of these birds, straight-
way the avenues to that dealer’s shop
were blocked by broughams, and cha-
riots, and hack cabs, until the shy
poulterer had been tempted by a suffi-
ciently high sum to part with his trea-
sure. Bank-notes were exchanged for
Cochin chicks, and Cochin eggs were in
as great demand as though they had cochin-chinas.

been laid by the fabled golden goose.

The reign ot the Cochin China was, however, of inconsiderable duration, Tho bird

460

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

thnt, in 1817, would fetch thirty guineas, is now counted but ordinary ehicken-meat,
and its price is regulated according to its weight when ready for the spit. As for
the precious buff eggs, against which, one time of day, guineas were weighed, — send
for supenn’orth at the cheesemonger's, and you will get at least five; which is just as
it should be. For eleganco of shape or quality of flesh, the Cochin cannot for a moment
stand comparison with our handsome dunghill; neither can the indescribable mixture of
growling and braying, peculiar to the former, vie with the musieal trumpeting of our
own morning herald : yet our poultry -breeders have been immense gainers by the intro-
duction of the ungainly celestial, inasmuch as new blood has been infused into the
English chicken family. Of this incalculable advantage we may be sure ; while, as to
the Cochin’s defects, they are certain to be lost in the process of “ cross and cross"
breeding.

BOILED FOWLS A LA BECHAMEL.

943- Ingredients.— A pair of fowls, 1 pint of Bechamel, No. S67, a
few bunches of boiled brocoli or cauliflower.

Mode. — Truss and boil the fowls by recipe No. 938 ; make a pint of
Bechamel sauce by recipe No. 367 ; pour some of this over the fowls,
and the remainder send to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with
bunches of boiled cauliflowers or brocoli, and serve very hot. The
sauce should be made sufficiently thick to adhere to the fowls ; that
for the tureen should be thinned by adding a spoonful or two of stock.

Time.— From i to 1 hour, according to size.

Average cost, in full season, 5s. a pair.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but scarce in early spring.

Space foe Fowls. — We are no advocates for converting tbe domestic fowl into a
cage-bird. We have known amateur fowl- keepers — worthy souls, who would butter the
very barley they gave their pets, if they thought they would the more enjoy it — coop up
a male bird ana three or four hens in an ordinary egg-chest placed on its side, and with
the front closely barred with iron hooping ! This system will not do. Every animal,
from man himself to the guinea-pig, must have what is vulgarly, but truly, known as
“ elbow-room and it must be self-evident how emphatically this rule applies to winged
animals. It may be urged, in the case of domestic fowls, that from constant disuse, and
from clipping and plucking, and other sorts of maltreatment, their wings can hardly be
regarded as instruments of flight ; we maintain, however, that you may pluck a fowl’s
wing-joints as bare as a pumpkin, but you will not erase from his memory that he is a
fowl, and that his proper sphere is tne open air. If he likewise reflects that he is an
ill-used fowl — a prison-bird — he will then come to the conclusion, that there is not the
least use, under such circumstances, for his existence; and you must admit that the
decision is only logical and natural.

BOILED FOWL, with Oysters.

{Excellent.)

944. Ingredients. — 1 j'oung fowl, 3 dozen oysters, the yolks of
2 eggs, 5 pint of cream.

Mode. — Truss a young fowl as for boiling ; fill the inside with o ysters
which have been bearded and washed in their own liquor ; secure the
ends of the fowl, put it into a jar, and plunge the jar into a saucepan
of boiling water. Keep it boiling for 1| hour, or rather longer ; then
take the gravy that has flowed from the oysters and fowl, of which
there will be a good quantity ; stir in the cream and yolks of eggs,

rOULTHV.

461

add a few oysters scalded in their liquor ; let the sauce' get quite
hot, but do not allow it to boil ; pour some of it over the fowl, and
the remainder send to table in a tureen. A blade of pounded mace
added to the sauce, with the cream and eggs, will be found an im-
provement.

Time. — 14 hour. Average cost, 4s. 6 d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. _

Seasonable from September to April.

The Fowl-house. — In building a fowl-liouse, take care that it bo, if possible, built
against a wall or fence that faces the south, and thus insure its inmates against many cold
winds, driving rains, and sleets they will otherwise suffer. Let the floor of the house
slope half an inch to the foot from back to front, so as to insure drainage ; let it also be
close, hard, and perfectly smooth ; so that it may be cleanly swept out. A capital plan
is to mix a few bushels of chalk and dry earth, spread it over the floor, and pay a

Eaviour’s labourer a trifle to hammer it level with his rammer. The fowl-house should
e seven feet high, and furnished with perches at least two feet apart. The perches
must be level, and not one above the other, or unpleasant consequences may ensue to
the undermost row. The perches should be ledged (not fixed — -just dropped into sockets,
that they may be easily taken out and cleaned) not lower than live feet from the ground,
convenient sUps of wood being driven into the wall, to render the ascent as easy as
possible. The front of the fowl-house should be latticed, taking care that the interstices
be not wide enough even to tempt a chick to crawl through. Nesting-boxes, containing
soft hay, and fitted against the walls, so as to be easily reached by the perch-ladder,
should be supplied. It will be as well to keep by you a few portable doors, so that you
may hang one before the entrance to a nesting-box, when the hen goes in to sit. This
will prevent other hens from intruding, a habit to which some are much addicted.

FRICASSEED FOWL OR CHICKEN (an Entree).

945. Ingredients. — 2 small fowls or 1 large one, 3 oz. of butter,
a bunch of parsley and green onions, 1 clove, 2 blades of mace, 1
shalot, 1 bay-leaf, salt and white pepper to taste, J pint of cream, the
yolks of 3 eggs.

Mode. — Choose a couple of fat plump chickens, and, after drawing,
singeing, and washing them, skin, and carve them into joints ; blanch
these in boiling water for 2 or 3 minutes ; take them out, and immerse
them in cold water to render them white. Put the trimmings, with the
necks and legs, into a stewpan ; add the parsley, onions, clove, mace,
shalot, bay-leaf, and a seasoning of pepper and salt ; pour to these the
water that the chickens were blanched in, and simmer gently for
rather more than 1 hour. Have ready another stewpan ; put in the
joints of fowl, with the above proportion of butter ; dredge them with
flour, let them get hot, but do not brown them much ; then moisten
the fricassee with the gravy made from the trimmings, &c., and stew
very gently for 4 hour. Lift the fowl into another stewpan, skim the
sauce, reduce it quickly over the fire, by letting it boil fast, and strain
it over them. Add the cream, and a seasoning of pounded mace and
cayenne ; let it boil up, and when ready to serve, stir to it the well-
beaten yolks of 3 eggs : these should not be put in till the last moment,

402

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and the sauce should he made hot , but must not boil, or it will instantly
curdle. A few button-mushrooms stewed with the fowl are by many
persons considered an improvement.

Time— 1 hour to make the gravy, § hour to simmer the fowl.

Average cost, 5s. the pair.

Sufficient. — 1 large fowl for one entree.

Seasonable at any time.

Stocking the Fowl-house. — Take care that the birds with which you stock your
house are young. The surest indications of old age are fading of the comb and gills
from brilliant red to a dingy brick-colour, general paleness of plumage, brittleness of
the feathers, length and size of the claws, and the scales of the legs and feet assuming a
ragged and corny appearance. Your cock and hens should be as near two years old as
possible. Hens will lay at a year old, but the eggs are always insignificant in Bize, and
the layers giddy and unsteady sitters. The hen-bird is in her prime for breeding at
three years old, and will continue so, under favourable circumstances, for two years
longer ; after which she will decline. Crowing hens, and those that have large combs,
are generally looked on with mistrust ; but this is mere silliness and superstition — though
it is possible that a spruce young cock would as much object to a spouse with such
pecubar addictions, as a young fellow of our own species would to a damsel who whistled
aud who wore whiskers. Fouls with yellow legs should be avoided; they are generally
of a tender constitution, loose-fleshed, and of indifferent flavour.

FRICASSEED FOWL (Cold Meat Cookery).

946. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 strip of
lemon-peel, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, 1
onion, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of flour,
z pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs.

Mode. — Carve the fowls into nice joints ; make gravy of the trim-
mings and legs, by stewing them with the lemon-peel, mace, herbs,
onion, seasoning, and water, until reduced to § pint ; then strain, and
put in the fowl. Warm it through, and thicken with a teaspoonful
of flour ; stir the yolks of the eggs into tho cream ; add these to the
sauce, let it get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, or it will
curdle.

Time. — 1 hour to make the-gravy, 3 hour to warm the fowl.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold chicken, 8d.

Seasonable at any time.

Chabactebistics of Health and Poweb. — The chief characteristics of health in a
fowl are brightness and dryness of eye aud nostrils, the comb and wattles firm aud ruddy,
the feathers elastic and glossy. The most useful cock is generally the greatest tyrant,
who struts among his hens despotically, with liis head erect and liis eyes ever watchful.
There is likely to be handsomer and stronger chicks in a house where a bold, active —
even savage— bird reigns, than where the lord of the hen-house is a weak, meek creature,
who bears the abuse aud packings of his wives without n remonstrance. I much prefer
dark-coloured cock-birds to those of light plumage. A cock, to be handsome, should bo
of middling size ; his bill should be short, comb bright-red, wattles large, breast broad,
and wings strong. His head should bo rather email than otherwise, lus legs short and
sturdy, and his spurs well-formed ; his feathers should be short and close, and the more
frequently and henrtily he crows, tho better father he is likely to become. The common
error of choosing hens above the ordinary stature of their respective varieties ^liould be
avoided, t^s tho best breeding-hens are those of medium size.

l’OULTRY.

403

FEIED FOWLS (Cold Meat Cookery).

947. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowls, vinegar, salt
and cayenne to taste, 3 or 4 minced shalots. For the hatter, — A lb.
of flour, h pint of hot water, 2 oz. of butter, the whites of 2 eggs.

Mode. — Cut the fowl into nice joints ; steep them for an hour in a
little vinegar, with salt, cayenne, and minced shalots. Make the
batter by mixing the flour and water smoothly together ; melt in it the
butter, and add the whites of egg beaten to a froth ; take out the pieces
of fowl, dip them in the batter, and fry, in boiling lard, a nice brown.
Pile them high in the dish, and garnish with fried parsley or rolled
bacon. When approved, a sauce or gravy may be served with them.

Time. — 10 minutes to fry the fowl.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold fowl, 8 d.

Seasonable at any time.

Chanticleee and his Come anions. — On bringing the male and female birds together
for the first time, it will be necessary to watch the former closely, as it is a very common
occurrence with him to conceive a sudden and violent dislike for one or more of his
wives, and not allow the obnoxious ones to approach within some distance of the others;
indeed, I know many cases where the capricious tyrant has set upon the innocent cause
of his resentment and killed her outright. In all such cases, the lien objected to should
be removed and replaced by another. If the cock should, by any accident, get killed,
considerable delicacy is required in introducing a new one. The hens may mope, and
refuse to associate with their new husband, clustering in corners, and making odious
comparisons between him and the departed ; or the cook may have his own peculiar
notions as to what a wife should be, and be by no means satisfied with those you have

Crided him. The plan is, to keep him by himself nearly the whole day, supplying
plentifully with exhilarating^food, then to turn him loose among the hens, and to
continue this practice, allowing him more of the society-of his wives each day, until you
suffer him to abide with them altogether.

IT.

948. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowl, vinegar, salt
and cayenne to taste, 4 minced shalots, yolk of egg ; to every teacupful
of bread crumbs allow 1 blade of pounded mace, 5 teaspoonful of minced
lemon-peel, 1 saltspoonful of salt, a few grains of cayenne.

Mode.— Steep the pieces of fowl as in the preceding recipe, then
dip them into the yolk of an egg or claritied butter ; sprinkle over
bread crumbs with which have been mixed salt, mace, cayenne, and
lemon-peel in the above proportion. Fry a light brown, and serve
with or without gravy, as may be preferred.

Time. — 10 minutes to fry the fowl.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold fowl, 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

I ABiors Modes or Fattening Fowls.— It would, I think, be a difficult matter to find,
among the entire fraternity of fowl-keepers, a dozen whose mode of fattening “ stock ’*
8a.'?e- Some 8iK that the grand secret is to give them abundance of saccharine
mod; others say nothing beats heavy corn steepecl in milk; while another breeder,

404

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

celebrated in liis day, and the recipient of a gold medal from a learned society, says,
“ The best method ib ns follows : — The chickens are to be taken from the hen the night
after they are hatched, and fed with eggs hard-boiled, chopped, and mixed with crumbs
of bread, ns larks and other small birds are fed, for the first fortnight; after which give
them oatmeal and treacle mixed so as to crumble, of which the chickens are very fond,
and thrive so fast thnt, at the end of two months, they will be as large as full-grown
fowls.” Others there are who insist that nothing beats oleaginous diet, and cram their
birds with ground oats and suet. But, whatever the course of diet favoured, on one
point they seem agreed ; and that is, that, while fattening, the fowls should be kepi in
the dark. Supposing the reader to be a dealer, — a breeder of gross chicken-meat for the
market (against which supposition the chances are 10,000 to 1), and beset with as few
scruples as generally trouble the huckster, the advice is valuable. “ Laugh and grow
fat ” is a good maxim enough ; but “ Sleep and grow fat ” is, as is well known to folks
of porcine attributes, a better. The poor birds, immured in their dark dungeons,
ignorant that there is life and sunshine abroad, tuck their heads under their wings and
make a long night of it ; while their digestive organs, having no harder work than to
pile up fat, have an easy time enough. But, unless we are mistaken, he who breeds
poultry for his own eating, bargains for a more substantial reward than the questionable
pleasure of burying liis carving-knife in cliicken grease. Tender, delicate, and nutritious
flesh is the great aim ; and these qualities, I can affirm without fear of contradiction,
were never attained by a dungeon-fatted chicken ; perpetual gloom and darkness is as
incompatible with chicken life as it is with human. If you wish to be convinced of the
absurdity of endeavouring to thwart nature’s laws, plant a tuft of gl ass, or a cabbage-
plant, in the darkest corner of your coal-cellar. The plant or the tuft may increase in
length and breadth, but its colour will be as wan and pale, almost, as would be your own
face under the circumstances.

POTJLET A LA MARENGO.

949. Ingredients. — 1 large fowl, 4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 1
tablespoonful of flour, 1 pint of stock No. 105, or water, about 20
mushroom-buttons, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of powdered
sugar, a very small piece of garlic.

Mode— Cut the fowl into 8 or 10 pieces ; put them with the oil into
a stewpan, and brown them over a moderate fire ; dredge in the above
proportion of flour ; when that is browned, pour in the stock or water ;
let it simmer very slowly for rather more than § hour, and skim
off the fat as it rises to the top ; add the mushrooms ; season with
salt, pepper, garlic, and sugar ; take out the fowl, which arrange
pyramidieally on the dish, with the inferior joints at the bottom.
Reduce the sauce by boiling it quickly over the fire, keeping it stirred
until sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of a spoon ; pour over the
fowl, and serve.

Time. — Altogether 50 minutes. Average cost, 3s. 6 d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

A Fowl a la Markngo.— The following is the origin of the well-known dish
Poulet a la Marengo On the evening of the battle the ilrst consul was very hungry
after the agitation of the day, and a fowl was ordered with all expedition. The
fowl was procured, but there was no butter at hand, and unluckily none could lie found
in the neighbourhood. There was oil in abundance, however ; and the cook having
poured a certain quantity into his skillet, put in the fowl, with a clove of garlic and
other seasoning, with a little white wine, the best tho country afforded ; he then gar-
nished it with mushrooms, and served it up hot. This dish proved the second couauest
of the day, as the first consul found it most agreeable to his palate, and expressed Ins
satisfaction. Ever since, a fowl a la Marengo is a favourite dish with all lovers of good
cheer.

POULTRY.

16 5

MINCED FOWL A LA BECHAMEL.

950. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowl, 6 tablespoonr
fills of Bechamel sauce No. 367, 6 tablespoonfuls of white stock No.
107, the white of 1 egg, bread crumbs, clarified butter.

Mode. — Take the remains of roast fowls, mince the white meat very
small, and put it into a stewpan with the Bechamel and stock ; stir it
well over the fire, and just let it boil up. Pour the mince into a dish,
beat up the white of egg, spread it over, and strew on it a few grated
bread crumbs ; pour a very little clarified butter on the whole, and
brown either before the fire or with a salamander. This should be
served in a silver dish, if at hand.

Time. — 2 or 3 minutes to simmer in the sauce.

Seasonable at any time.

The best Wat to Patten Poiyls. — The barn-door fowl is in itself a complete
refutation of the cramming and dungeon policy of feeding practised by some. This
fowl, which has the common rnu of the farm-yard, living on dairy-scraps and offal from
the stable, begins to grow fat at threshing-time. He has his fill of the finest corn ; he
has his fill of fresh air and natural exercise, and at last he comes smoking to the table, —
a dish for the gods. In the matter of unnaturally stuffing and confining fowls, Mowbray
is exactly of our opinion. He says : “ The London chicken-butchers, as they are termed,
are said to be, of all others, the most expeditious and dexterous feeders, putting up a
coop of fowls, and making them thoroughly fat within the space of a fortnight, using
much grease, and that perhaps not of the most delicate kind, in the food. In this wav I
have no boasts to make, having always found it necessary to allow a considerable
number of weeks for the purpose of making fowls fat in coops. In the common way
this business is often badly managed, fowls being huddled together in a small coop,
tearing each other to pieces, instead of enjoying that repose which alone can insure
the wished-for object — irregularly fed and cleaned, until they become so stenched
and poisoned in their own excrement, that their flesh actually smells and tastes when
smoking npon the table.” Sussex produces the fattest and largest poultry of any county
in England, and the fatting process there most common is to give them a gruel made of
]mt-liquor and bruised oats, with which are mixed hog’s grease, sugar, and milk. The
iowls are kept very warm, and crammed morning and night. They are put into the
coop, and kept there two or three days before the cramming begins, and then it is con-
tinued for a fortnight, and the birds are sent to market.

EAGOUT OE FOWL.

951. Ingredients. — The remains of cold, roast fowls, 3 shalots,
2 blades of mace, a faggot of savoury herbs, 2 or three slices of lean
ham, 1 pint of stock or water, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion,
1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, b teaspoonful
of pounded sugar, 1 oz. of butter.

Mode.— Cut the fowls up into neat pieces, the same as for a fricassee ;
put the trimmings into a stewpan with the shalots, mace, herbs, ham,
onion, and stock (water may be substituted for this). Boil it slowly
for 1 hour, strain the liquor, and put a small piece of butter into a
stewpan ; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry up the
butter, and stir it over the fire. Put in the strained liquor, boil for
a few minutes, and strain it again over the pieces of fowl. Squeeze

2 n

466

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

in the lemon -juice, add the sugar and a seasoning of pepper and salt,
make it hot, but do not allow it to boil ; lay the fowl neatly on the
dish, and garnish with croutons.

Time. — Altogether l£ hour. Average cost, exclusive of the cold
fowl, 9d.

Seasonable at any time.

The best !Fowt,s to Fatten, &e.— The chicks most likely to fatten well are those
first hatched in the brood, and those with the shortest legs, Long-legged fowls as
a rule, are by far the most difficult to fatten. The most delicate sort are those which
arc put up to fatten as soon as the hen forsakes them ; for, as says an old writer, ‘ 1 then
they will be in fine condition, and full of flesh, which flesh is afterwards expended in
the exercise of foraging for food, and in the increase of stature ; and it may be a work
of some weeks to recover it,— especially with young cocks.” But whether you take
them in hand as chicks, or not till they are older, the three prime rules to be observed
are, sound and various food, -warmth, and cleanliness. There is nothing that a fatting
fowl grows so fastidious about as his water. If water any way foul be offered him, he
will not drink it, but sulk with his food, and pine, and you all the while wondering the
reason why. Keep them separate, allowing to each bird as much space as you can
spare. Spread the ground with sharp sandy gravel; take care that they are hot dis-
turbed. In addition to their regular diet of good corn, make them a cake of ground
oats or beaus, brown sugar, milk, and mutton suet, let the cake lie till it is' stale,
then crumble it, and give each bird a gill-measureful morning and evening. No entire
grain should be given to fowlB during the time they are fattening ; indeed, the secret of
success lies in supplying them with the most nutritious food without stint, and in such
a form that their digestive mills shall find no difficulty in grinding it.

BOAST FOWLS.

952. Ingredients.— -A pair of fowls ; a little flour.

Mode. — Fowls to he tender should be killed a couple of days before
they are dressed ; when the feathers come out easily, then let them be
picked and cooked. In drawing them, he careful not to break the
gall-hag, as, wherever it touches, it would impart a very hitter taste ;
the liver and gizzard should also he preserved. Truss them in the
following manner : — After having carefully picked them, cut off the

head, and skewer the skin of the neck
down over the back. Cut off the claws ;
dip the legs in boiling water, and scrape
them ; turn the pinions under, run a
skewer through them and the middle of
the legs, which should be passed through
the body to the pinion and leg on the other side, one skewer
securing the limbs on both sides. The liver and gizzard should be
placed in the wings, the liver on one side and the gizzard on the
other. Tie the legs together by passing a trussing- needle, threaded
with twine, through the backbone, and secure it on the other
side. If trussed like a capon, the legs are placed more apart. When
firmly trussed, singe them all over ; put them down to a bright
clear fire, paper the breasts with a sheeted buttered paper, and keep
the fowls well basted. Roast them for 3 hour, more or less, according

HOASI FOWL.

POULTRY.

467

to the size, and 10 minutes before serving, remove the paper, dredge
the fowls with a little fine flour, put a piece of butter into the basting-
ladle, and as it melts, baste the fowls with it ; when nicely frothed
and of a rich colour, serve with good brown gravy, a little of which
should be poured over the fowls, and a tureen of well-made bread
sauce, No. 371. Mushroom, oyster, or egg sauce are very suitable
accompaniments to roast fowl. — Chicken is roasted in the same
manner.

Time— A. very large fowl, quite 1 hour, medium-sized one % hour,
chicken i hour, or rather longer.

Average cost, in full season, 5s. a pair ; when scarce, 7s. 6d. the pair.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but scarce in early spring.

The Diseases oe Fowls, and how to Cube them. — The diseases to which Qallus
domesticus is chiefly liable, are roup, pip, scouring, and chip. The first-mentioned is
the most common of all, and results from cold. The ordinary symptoms, — swollen eyes,
running at the nostrils, and the purple colour of the wattles. Part birds so affected from
the healthy ones, as, when the disease is at its height it is as contagious as glanders
among horses. Wash out the nostrils with warm water, give daily a peppercorn in-
closed in dough ; bathe the eyes and nostrils with warm milk and water. If the head is
- much swollen, bathe with warm brandy and water. When the bird is getting well, put
half a spoonful of sulphur in his drinking-water. Some fanciers prescribe for this
disease half a spoonful of table salt, dissolved in half a gpll of water, in which rue has
been steeped ; others, pills composed of ground rice and fresh butter : but the remedy
first mentioned will be found far the best. As there is a doubt respecting the whole-
someness of the eggs laid by roupy hens, it will be as well to throw them away. The
pip is a white horny slrin growing on the tip of the bird's tongue. It should be removed
with the point of a penknife, ana the place rubbed with salt.

FOWL AND BICE CBOQ,UETTES (an Entree).

953- Ingredients. — i lb. of rice, 1 quart of stock or broth, 3 oz. of
butter, minced fowl, egg, and bread crumbs.

Mode. — Put the rice into the above proportion of cold stock or
broth, and let it boil very gently for 4 hour ; then add the butter, and
simmer it till quite dry and soft. When cold, make it into balls,
hollow out the inside, and fill with minced fowl made by recipe
No. 956. The mince should be rather thick. Cover over with rice, dip
the balls into egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and fry a nice
brown. Dish them, and garnish with fried parsley. Oysters, white
sauce, or a little cream, may be stirred into the rice before it cools.

Time.—i hour to boil the rice, 10 minutes to fry the croquettes.

Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 8 d.

Seasonable at any time.

Chip.-K the birds are allowed to paddle about ou wet soil, or to be much out in
the ram they will get “chip.” Young chicks are especially liable to this complaint
they will sit shivering in out-of-the-way corners, perpetually uttering a dolorous “chip
chip ; seemingly frozen with cold, though, on handling them, they are found to be in’
hum fever. A wholesale breeder would take no pains to attempt tho cure of fowls so
alllictcd ; but they who keep chickens lor the pleasure, and not for tho profit they yield,

2 H 2

468

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

will be inclined to recover (licm if possible. Give them none but warm food, half a
peppercorn rolled in n morsel of dough every night, and a little r.iire in their water.
Above all, keep them warm ; a corner in the kitchen fender, for a day or two, will do
more to effect a cure than the run of a druggist’s warehouse.

CROQUETTES OE FOWL (an Entree).

954- Ingredients.— 3 or 4 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, white sauce ; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste ; 4 tea-
spoonful of pounded sugar, the remains of cold roast fowls, the yolks
of 2 eggs, egg, and bread crumbs.

Mode— Mince the fowl, carefully removing all skin and bone, and
fry the shalots in the butter ; add the minced fowl, dredge in the dour,
putin the pepper, salt, mace, pounded sugar, and sufficient white sauce
to moisten it ; stir to it the yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs, and set it by
to cool. Then make the mixture up into balls, egg and bread-crumb
them, and fry a nice brown. They may be served on a border of
mashed potatoes, with gravy or sauce in the centre.

Time. — 10 minutes to fry the balls.

Seasonable at any time-

The Then. — What is tended “ turrling” with soug-birds, is known, as regard fowls,
as the “ turn." Its origin is the same in both cases, — over-feeding and want of exercise.
Without a moment’s warning, a fowl so afflicted will totter and fall from its perch,
and unless assistance be at hand, speedily give up the ghost. The veins of the palate
should be opened, and a few drop,s of a mixture composed of six parts of sweet nitro
and one of' ammonia, poured down its throat. I have seen ignorant keepers plunge a
bird, stricken with the “ turn,” into cold water ; but I never saw it taken out again alive ;
and for a good reason : the sudden chill has the effect of driving the blood to the
head, — of aggravating the disease indeed, instead of relieving it.

HASHED FOWL— an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery).

955. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowl, 1 pint of water,
1 onion, 2 or three small carrots, 1 blade of pounded mace, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, thickening of butter and
flour, If tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.

Mode. — Cut off the best joints from the fowl, and the remainder
make into gravy, by adding to the bones and trimmings a pint of
water, an onion sliced and fried of a nice brown, the carrots, mace,
seasoning, and herbs. Let these stew gently for l£ hour, strain the
liquor, and thicken with a little flour and butter. Lay in the fowl,
thoroughly warm it through, add the ketchup, and garnish with
sippets of toasted bread.

Time. — Altogether if hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold fowl, id.

Seasonable at any time.

Skin-disease in Fowls— Skin-disease is, nine times out of ten, caused by the
feathers being swarmed by parasites, Poor feeding will induce this, even if cleanliness
be observed ; uncleanliness, however liberal the bill of fare, will bo taken as an invitation

POULTRY.

bv the little biting posts, and heartily responded to. Mix half a teaspoonful of kydio-
o'xnlie acid with twelve teaspoonfuls of water,— apply to the itching parts with an o.d
shaving-brush.

Obstruction or tub Crop.— Obstruction of the crop is occasioned by weakness 01
greediness. You may know when a bird is so afflicted by Ins crop being distended
almost to bursting. Mowbray tells of a hen of his m this predicament ; when the c op
was opened, a quantity of new beans were discovered in a state of vegetation, the crop
should be slit from the bottom to the top with a sharp pair ot scissors, the contents taken
out, and the slit sewed up again with fine white thread.

MINCED FOWL— an Entree (Cold Meat Cookery).

956. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 hard-boiled
eggs, salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury
herbs, 6 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 oz. of butter, two teaspoonfuls of
flour, % teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of
lemon-juice.

Mode. — Cut out from the fowl all the W'hite meat, and mince it
finely without any skin or bone ; put the bones, skin, and trimmings
into a stewpan with an onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, a blade of
mace, and nearly a pint of water ; let this stew for an hour, then
strain the liquor. Chop the eggs small ; mix them with the fowl ;
add salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, put in the gravy and remaining
ingredients ; let the whole just boil, and serve with sippets of toasted
bread.

Time. — liather more than 1 hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 8 d.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Another way to make this is to mince the fowl, and warm it in white
sauce or Bdchamel. When dressed like this, 3 or 4 poached eggs may be placed
on the top : oysters, or chopped mushrooms, or balls of oyster forcemeat, may
be laid round the dish.

The Moulting Season. — During the moulting season, beginning properly at the end
of September, the fowls will require a little extra attention. Keep them dry and warm,
and feed them liberally on warm and satisfying food. If in any fowl the moult should
seem protracted, examine it for broken feather-stumps still bedded in the skin : if you
find any, extract them carefully with a pair of tweezers. If a fowl is hearty and strong,
six weeks will see him out of his trouble ; if he is weakly, or should take cold during
the time, he will not thoroughly recover in less than three months. It is seldom or
ever that hens will lay during the moult; while the cock, during the same period, will
give so little of his consideration to the frivolities of love, that you may as well, nay,
much better, keep him by himself till he perfectly recovers. A moulting chicken makes
but a sorry dish.

HASHED FOWL, Indian Fashion (an Entree).

957- Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 sliced
onions, 1 apple, 2 oz. of butter, pounded mace, pepper and salt to taste,
1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegai’, 1 table-
spoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 pint of gravy.
Mode. — Cut the onions into slices, mince the apple, and fry these

470

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

in. the butter ; add pounded mace, pepper, salt, cuyy-powder, vinegar,
Hour, and sugar in the above proportions; when the onion is brown,
put in the gravy, which should be previously made from the bones
and trimmings of the fowls, and stow for } hour ; add the fowl cut
into nicc-sized joints, let it warm through, and when quite tender,
serve. The dish should be garnished with an edging of boiled rice.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost , exclusive of the fowl, 8 d.

Seasonable at any time.

The Scour on Dyssnibbt. — The scour, or dysentery, or diarrhcea, is induced
variously. A sudden alteration in diet will cause it, as will a superabundance of green
food. The best remedy is a piece of toasted biscuit sopped in ale. If the disease has
too tight a hold on the bird to be quelled by this, give six drops of syrup of white
poppies and six drops of castor -oil, mixed with a little oatmeal or ground rice.
Restrict the bird’s diet, for a few days, to dry food, — crushed beans or oats, stale bread-
crumbs, &c.

FOWL SCOLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

958. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast or boiled fowl, a
pint of Bechamel, No. 367, or white sauce, No. 537 or 539.

Mode. — Strip off the skin from the fowl ; cut the meat into thin
slices, and warm them in about I pint, or rather more, of Bechamcjf or
white sauce. When quite hot, serve, and garnish the dish with rolled
ham or bacon toasted.

Time. — 1 minute to simmer the slices of fowl.

Seasonable at any time.

The Feather-pegged Bantam. — Since (he introduction of the Bantam into Europe,
it has ramified into many varieties, none of which are destitute of elegance, and some,

indeed, remarkable for their beauty. All
are, or ought to be, of small size, but lively
and vigorous, exhibiting in their move-
ments both grace and stateliness. The variety
Bhown in the engraving is remarkable for
the tarsi, or beams of the legs, being plumed
to the toes, with still’, long feathers, which
brush the ground. Owing, possibly, to the
little care taken to preserve this variety from
admixture, it is now not frequently seen.
Another variety is often red, with a. black
breast and single dentated comb. The tarsi
are smooth, and of a dusky blue. A A hen this
sort of Bantam is pure, it yields ill courage
and spirit to none, and is, in fact, a game-fowl
in miniature, being as beautiful and graceful
ns it is spirited. A pure white Bantam, possessing all the qualifications just named, is
also bred in the royal aviary at AViudsor.

ATT TTSP~>T A 1ST DISH OF FOWL (an Entree).

959. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowl, 3 or 4 sliced
onions, 1 tablespoonful of curry-powder, salt to taste.

Mode. — Divide the fowl into joints ; slice and fry the onions in a
little butter, taking care not to burn them ; sprinkle OA'er the fowl a

POULTRY.

471

little curry-powder and salt; fry these nicely, pile them high in the
centime of the dish, cover with the onion, and serve with a cut lemon
on a plate. Care must be taken that the onions1 are not greasy : they
should be quite dry, but not burnt.

Time. — 5 minutes to fry the onions, 10 minutes to fry the fowl.

Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, 4 d.

Seasonable during the winter months.

The Speckled Hamburg.— Of the specified, or spangled Hamburg, which is a
favourite breed with many persons, there are two varieties,— the golden-speelded and
the silver -speckTed. The general colour
of the former is golden, or orange-yel-
low, each feather having a glossy dark
brown or black tip, particularly remark-
able on the hackles of the cock and the
wing-coverts, and also on the darker
feathers of the breast. The female is
yellow, or orange-brow'n, the feathers in
like manner being margined with black.

The silver- speckied variety is distin-
guished by the ground-colour of the
plumage being, ot a silver-white, with
perhaps a tinge of straw-yellow, every
feather being margined with a semi-lunar
mark of glossy black. Both of these
varieties are extremely beautiful, the
henjlaying freely. First-rate birds com-
mand a high price.

SPECKIED HAMEUJtGS.

FOWL SAUTE WITH PEAS (an Entree).

960. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowl, 2 oz. of butter,
pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste, 1 dessertspoonful of flour,
a- pint of weak stock, 1 pint of green peas, 1 teaspoonful of pounded
sugar.

Mode. — Cut the fowl into nice pieces ; put the butter into a stew-
pan ; sautez or fry the fowl a nice brown colour, previously sprinkling
it with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Dredge in the flour, shake the
ingredients well round, then add the stock and peas, and stew till the
latter are tender, which will be in about 20 minutes ; put in the
pounded sugar, and serve, placing the chicken round, and the peas in
the middle of the dish. When liked, mushrooms may be substituted
for the peas.

Time. — Altogether 40 minutes.

Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, Id.

Seasonable from June to August.

BOUDIN" A LA HEINE (an Entree).

(M. tide's Recipe.)

961. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowls, 1 pint of
liechamel No. 367, salt and cayenne to taste, egg and bread crumbs.

472

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKEBY.

Mode. — Take the breasts and nice white meat from the fowls ; cut it
into small dice of an equal size, and throw them into some good
Bechamel, made by recipe No. 367 ; season with salt and cayenne,
and put the mixture into a dish to cool. When this preparation is
quite cold, cut it into 2 equal parts, which should be made into
loudins of a long shape, the size of the dish they are intended to be
served on ; roll them in flour, egg 'and bread-crumb them, and be
careful that the ends are well covered with the crumbs, otherwise they
would break in the frying-pan ; fry them a nice colour, put them
before the fire to drain the greasy moisture from them, and serve with
the remainder of the Bechamel poured round : this should be thinned
with a little stock.

Time. — 10 minutes to fry the boudins.

Average cost, exclusive of the fowl, Is. 3 d.

Sufficient for 1 entree.

Sin John Sebeigiit's Bantams. — Above all Bautams is placed, the celebrated and
beautiful breed called Sir John Sebright’s Silver Bantams. This breed, which
Sir John brought to perfection after years of careful trials, is very small, with un-
feathered legs, and a rose comb and short
hackles. The plumage is gold or silver, span-
gled, every feather being of a golden orange,
or of a silver white, with a glossy jet-black
margin ; the cocks have the tail folded like
that of a hen, with the sickle feathers short-
ened straight, or nearly so, and broader than
usual. The term hen-cocks is, in consequence,
often applied to them ; but although the sickle
feathers are thus modified, uo bird possesses
higher courage, or a more gallant carriage.
The attitude of the cock is, indeed, singularly
proud ; and he is often seen to bear himself so
haughtily, that his head, thrown back as if in
disdain, nearly touches the two upper feathers —
sickles they can scareel- be called— of his tail. Half-bred birds of this kind are not un-
common, but birds of the pure breed are not to be obtained without trouble and expense ;
indeed, some time ago, it was almost impossible to procure either a fowl or an egg.
“The finest,’’ says the writer whom we have consulted as to this breed, “we have
ever seen, were in Sir John’s poultry -yard, adjaoent to Turnham-Greeu Common, in the
byroad leading to Acton."

SEBEIGHT BANTAMS.

FOWL A LA MAYONNAISE.

96a. Ingredients. — A cold roast fowl, Mayonnaise sauce No. 468,
4 or 5 young lettuces, 4 hard-boiled eggs, a few water-cresses, endive.

Mode. — Cut the fowl into neat joints, lay them in a deep dish, piling
them high in the centre, sauce the fowl with Mayonnaise made by
recipe No. 468, and garnish the dish with young lettuces cut in halves,
water-cresses, endive, and hard-boiled eggs : these may be sliced in
-rings, or laid on the dish whole, cutting oil at the bottom a piece of
the white, to make the egg stand. All kinds of cold meat and solid
‘fish may be dressed a la Mayonnaise, and make excellent luncheon or
supper dishes. The sauce should not be poured over the fowls until

POULTRY.

473

tho moment of serving. Should a very large Mayonnaise he required,
use 2 fowls instead of 1, with an equal proportion of the remaining
ingredients.

Average cost, with one fowl, 3s. 6(7.

Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish.

Seasonable from April to September.

Black Spanish. — The real Spanish fowl is recognized by its uniformly black colour
burnished with tints of green ; its peculiar white face, and the large develop
ment of its comb and wattle. The hens
are excellent layers, and their eggs are
of a very large size. They are, however,
bad nurses; consequently, their eggs
should be laid iu the nest of other
varieties to be hatched. “ In purchasing
Spanish,” says an authority, “ blue legs,
the entire absence of white or coloured
feathers in the plumage, and a large
white face, with a very large high comb,
which should be erect in the cock, though
pendent in the hens, should be insisted
on.” The flesh of this fowl is esteemed ;
but, from the smallness of its body when
compared with that of the Dorking, it is
not placed on an equality with it for the
table. Otherwise, however, they are
profitable birds, and their handsome
carriage, and striking contrast of colour
in the comb, face, and plumage, are a high recommendation to them as kept fowls,
For a town fowl, they are perhaps better adapted than any other variety,

BLACK SPANISH.

FOWL PILLAU, based on M. Soyer’s Recipe (an Indian Dish).

963. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, a fowl, 2 quarts of
stock or good broth, 40 cardamum-seeds, b oz. of coriander-seed, -j oz.
of cloves, \ oz. of allspice, i oz. of mace, j oz. of cinnamon, § oz. of
peppercorns, 4 onions, 6 thin slices of bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs.

Mode. — Well wash 1 lb. of the best Patna rice, put it into a frying-
pan with the butter, which keep moving over a slow fire until the
rice is lightly browned. Truss the fowl as for boiling, put it into a
stewpan with the stock or broth ; pound the spices and seeds thoroughly
in a mortar, tie them in a piece of muslin, and put them in with the
fowl. Let it boil slowly until it is nearly done ; then add the rice,
which should stew until quite tender and almost dry ; cut the onions
into slices, sprinkle them with Hour, and fry, without breaking them,
of a nice brown colour. Have ready the slices of bacon curled and
grilled, and the eggs boiled hard. Lay the fowl in the form of a
pyramid upon a dish, smother with the rice, garnish with the bacon,
fried onions, and the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and serve very
hot. Before taking the rice out, remove the spices.

Time. — y hour to stew the fowl without the rice ; b hour with it.

474

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Average cost, is. 3 d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

The Seuai Ta-ook, on Fowls op the Sultan.— This fowl is the size of our English
Polands, and is the latest species introduced to England. They have a white and (lowing

plumage, a full-sized, compact Poland
tuft on the head, are mulled, have a full
(lowing tail, short legs well feathered,
and five toes upon each foot. Their
comb consists merely of two little points,
and their wattles are very small : their
colour is that of a pure white. In
January, 1854, they arrived in this
country from Constantinople ; and they
take their name from sarai, the Turkish
word for sultan’s palace, and ta-ook, the
Turkish for fowl. They are thus called
the “ fowls of the sultan,” a name which
has the twofold advantage of being the
nearest to be found to that by which
they have been known in their own
country, and of designating the country
SULTANS, whence they come. Their habits are

described as being generally brisk and
happy-tempered, but not so easily kept in as Cochin-Chinas. They are excellent layers;
but they are non-sitters and small eaters : their eggs are large and white. Brahmas or
Cochins will clear the crop of a grass-run long before they will, and, with scattered food,
they soon satisfy themselves and walk away.

POTTLET ATJX CRESSOXS.

964. Ingredients. — A fowl, a large bunch of water-cresses, 3
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, J pint of gravy.

Mode. — Truss and roast a fowl by recipe Ho. 952, taking care that
it is nicely frothed and brown. Wash and dry the water-cresses,
pick them nicely, and arrange them in a flat layer on a dish. Sprinkle
over a little salt and the above proportion of vinegar ; place over these
the fowl, and pour over it the gravy. A little gravy should be served
in a tureen. When not liked, the vinegar may be omitted.

Time. — From £ to 1 hour, according to size.

Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6 d. each.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

ROAST FOWL, Stuffed.

965. Ingredients. —A large fowl, forcemeat Ho. 417, a little
flour.

Mode.— Select a large plump fowl, fill the breast with forcemeat,
made by recipe Ho. 417, truss it firmly, the same as for a plain roast
fowl, dredge it with flour, and put it down to a bright fire. Roast it
for nearly or quite an hour, should it be very large ; remove the
skewers, and serve with a good brown gravy and a tureen of bread
sauce.

i’OULTHY.

470

Time— Large fowl, nearly or quite 1 hour.

Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6 cl. each.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but scarce in early spring.

Wole. — Sausage-meat stuffing may be substituted for the above : this is now

a very general mode of serving fowl.

Pencilled Hamburg. — This variety of
and silver, and is very minutely marked.
The hens of both should have the body
clearly pencilled across with several
bars of black, and the hackle in both
sexes should be perfectly free from dark
marks. The cocks do not exhibit the
pencillings, but are white or brown in
the golden or silver birds respectively.
Their form is compact, and their atti-
tudes graceful and. sprightly. The
hens do not sit, but lay extremely
well; hence one of their common names,
that of Dutch every-day layers. They
_ are also known in different parts of the
country, as Chitteprats, Creoles, or
Corals, Bolton bays and grays, and,
in Borne parts of Yorkshire, by the
wrong name of Corsican fowls. They
are imported in large numbers from
Holland, but those bred in this country

the Hamburg fowl is of two colotus, golden

PENCILLED IIAMBUKGS.

greatly superior in size.

G-IBLET PIE.

966. Ingredients.— A set of duck or goose giblets, 1 lb. of rump-
steak, 1 onion, i teaspoonful of whole black pepper, a bunch of
savoury herbs, plain crust.

Mode.— Clean, and put the giblets into a stewpan with an onion,
whole pepper, and a bunch of savoury herbs ; add rather more than a
pint of water, and simmer gently for about ll hour. Take them out,
let them cool, and cut them into pieces ; line the bottom of a pie-dish
with a few pieces of rump-steak ; add a layer of giblets and a few
more pieces of steak ; season with pepper and salt, and pour in the
gravy (which should be strained), that the giblets were stewed in ;
cover with a plain crust, and bake for rather more than li hour in a
brisk oven. Cover a piece of paper over the pie, to prevent the crust
taking too much colour.

Time.— li hour to stew the giblets, about 1 hour to bake the pie.

Average cost, exclusive of the giblets, Is. 4 cl.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Tub Brent Goose. — This is tho smallest and most numerous species of the gecso
whifch visit tho British islands. It makes its appearance in winter, and ranges over tho
whole of the coasts and estuaries frequented by other migrant geese. Mr. Selby states
that a vary large body of these birds annually resort to the extensive sandy and muddy
flats which lie between the mainland and Holy Island, on the Northumbrian coast, and
which ure covered by every flow of the tide. This part of tho coast appears to havo

470

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

been a favourite resort of these birds from time immemorial, where they have always
received the name of Ware geese, no doubt from their continually feeding on marine
vegetables. Their llesh is very agreeable.

HASHED GOOSE.

967. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast goose, 2 onions, 2oz.
of butter, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, pepper
and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of
mushroom ketchup.

Mode. — Cut up the goose into pieces of the size required ; the inferior
joints, trimmings, &c., put into a stewpan to malte the gravy; slice
and fry the onions in the butter of a very pale brown ; add these to
the trimmings, and pour over about a pint of boiling water ; stew
these gently for f hour, then skim and strain the liquor. Thicken it
with flour, and flavour with port wine and ketchup, in the above pro-
portion ; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and put in the pieces of
goose ; let these get thoroughly hot through, but do not allow them to
boil, and serve with sippets of toasted bread.

Time. — Altogether, rather more than 1 hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold goose, 4c7.

Seasonable from September to March.

The Wild Goose.- — This bird is sometimes called tlic “ Gray -lag ” and is the original
of the domestic goose. It is, according to Pennant, the only species which the Britons
could take young, and familiarize. “ The Gray-lug," says Mr. Gould, “ is known to
inhabit all the extensive marshy districts throughout the temperate regions of Europe
generally ; its range northwards not extending further than the fifty-third degree of
latitude, while southwards it extends to the northern portions of Africa, easterly to
Persia, and we believe it is generally dispersed over Asia Minor.” It is the bird that
saved the Capitol by its vigilance, and by tie Romans was cherished accordingly.

ROAST GOOSE.

968. Ingredients. — Goose, 4 large onions, 10 sage-leaves, \ lb. of
bread crumbs, 1? oz. of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 egg.

Choosing and Trussing. — Select a goose with a clean white skin,
plump breast, and yellow feet : if these latter are red,' the bird is
old. Should the weather permit, let it hang for a few days : by so
doing, the flavour will be very much improved. Pluck, singe, draw,
and carefully wash and wipe the goose ; cut off the neck close to the
back, leaving the skin long enough to turn over ; cut off the feet at
the first joint, and separate the pinions at the first joint. Beat the
breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, put a skewer through the under
part of each wing, and having drawn up the legs closely, put a skewer
into the middle of each, and pass the same quite through the
body. Insert another skewer into the small of the leg, bring it close
down to the side bone, run it through, and do the same to the other

POULTRY.

477

JIOAST GOOSE.

side. Now cut off the end of the vent, and make a hole in the skin
sufficiently large for the passage of the rump, in order to keep in the
seasoning.

Mode. — Make a sage-and-onion stuffing of the above ingredients, by
recipe No. 504 ; put it into the body of the goose, and secure it firmly
at both ends, by passing the rump through the hole made in the
skin, and the other end by tying the skin of the neck to the back ;
by this means the seasoning will not
escape. Put it down to a brisk fire,
keep it well basted, and roast from If
to 2 hours, according to the size. Re-
move the skewefs, and serve with a
tureen of good gravy, and one of well-
made apple-sauce. Should a very
highly-flavoured seasoning be preferred, the onions should not be
parboiled, but minced raw : of the two methods, the mild seasoning
is far superior. A ragout, or pie, should be made of the giblets, or
they may be stewed down to make gravy. Be careful to serve
the goose before the breast falls, or its appearance will be spoiled
by coming flattened to table. As this is rather a troublesome joint
to carve, a large quantity of gravy should not be poured round the
goose, but sent in a tureen.

Time. — A large goose, If hour ; a moderate-sized one, If to If hour.

Seasonable from September to March ; but in perfection from
Michaelmas to Christmas.

Average cost, 5s. 6 d. each. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.

Note. — A teaspoonful of made mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, a few grains
of cayenne, mixed with a glass of port wine, are sometimes poured into tlie
goose by a slit made in the apron. This sauce is, by many persons, considered
an improvement.

The Goose. — -This bird is pretty generally distributed over the face of the globe,
being ruet with in North America, Lapland, Iceland, Arabia, and Persia. Its varieties
are numerous ; but in England there is
only one species, which is supposed to
be a native breed. The best geese are
found on the borders of Suffolk, and in
Norfolk and Berkshire; but the largest
flocks are reared in the fens of Lincoln-
shire and Cambridge. They thrive best
where they have an easy access to water,
and large herds of them are sent every
year to London, to be fattened by the
metropolitan poulterers. “A Michael-
mas goose,” says Dr. Kitchener, “is as
famous in the mouths of the million as
the minced-pie at Christmas ; yet for
those who eat with delicacy, it is, at
that time, too full-grown. The true pe-
riod when the goose is in the highest

perfection is when it has just acquired imden goose.

478

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

its full growth, and not begun to harden ; if the March goose is insipid, the Michaelmas
goose is rank. The fine time is between both; from the second week in June to the
liret in September.” It is said that the Michaelmas goose is indebted to Queen
Elizabeth for its origin on tho table at that season. Her majesty happened to dine
on one at the table of an English baronet, when she received the news of the din-
comliture of the Spanish Armada. In commemoration of this event, she commanded
the goose to make its appearance at table on every Michaelmas. We here give an
engraving of the Bmden goose.

TO DRESS A GREEN GOOSE.

969. Ingredients. — Goose, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to
taste.

Mode.— Geese are called green till they are about four months old,
and should not be stuffed. After it has been singed and trussed, the
same as in the preceding recipe, put into the body a seasoning of
pepper and salt, and the butter to moisten it inside. Roast before a
clear fire for about f hour, froth and brown it nicely, and serve with
a brown gravy, and, when liked, gooseberry-sauce. This dish should
be garnished with water-cresses.

Time. — About f hour. Average cost, 4s. 6 d. each.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in June, July, and August.

The Egyptian Goose. — Especial attention has been directed to this bird by Herodotus,
who says it was held sacred by the ancient Egyptians, which has been partially confirmed

by modern travellers. Mr. Salt remarks,
“ Horus Apollo says the old geese stay
with their young in the most imminent
danger, at the risk of their own lives,
which Ihave myself frequently witnessed.
Vielpanser is the goose of the Nile, and
wherever this goose is represented on the
walls of the temples in colours, the re-
semblance may be clearly traced.” The
goose is also said to have beep a bird
under the care of Isis. It has been
placed by Mr. Gould amongst the birds
of Europe ; not from the number of half-
reclaimed individuals which are annually
shot in Britain, but from the circum-
stance of its occasionally visiting the
southern parts of the continent from
its native country, Africa. Tho Toulouse
goose, of which we give an engraving, is a well-known bird.

TOULOUSE GOOSE.

ROAST GUINEA-FOWL, Larded.

970. Ingredients.— A Guinea-fowl, lardoons, flour, and salt.

Mode. — When this bird is larded, it should be trussed the same as
a pheasant ; if plainly roasted, truss it like a turkey. After larding
and trussing it, put it down to roast at a brisk fire ; keep it well
basted, and a short time before serving, dredge it with a little flour,
and let it froth nicely. Serve with a little gravy in the dish, and a
tureen of the same, and one of well-made bread-sauce.

POULTRY.

479

Time. — Guinea-fowl, larded, 1.1 hour ; plainly roasted, about 1 hour.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

Seasonable in winter.

Note. — The breast, if larded, should be covered with a piece of paper, and
removed about 10 minutes before serving.

The Guinea-Fowl. — The bird takes its name from Guinea, in Africa, where it is
found wild, and in great abundance. It is
gregarious in its habits, associating in flocks
of two or three hundred, delighting in marshy
grounds, and at night perching upon trees,
or on high situations. Its size is about the
same as that of a common hen, but it stands
higher on its legs. Though domesticated, it
retains much of its wild nature, and is apt to
wander. The hens lay abundantly, and the
eggs are excellent. In their flesh, however,
they are not so white as the common fowl, but
more . inclined to the colour of the pheasant,
for which it frequently makes a good substi-
tute at table. The flesh is both savoury and
easy of digestion, and is in season when game
is out of season.

LARK PIE (an Entree).

971. Ingredients.— A few thin slices of beef, the same of bacon, 9
larks, flour ; for stuffing, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, i teaspoonful
of minced lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, 1 egg, salt
and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of chopped shalot, l pint of weak
stock or water, puff-paste.

Mode. — Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, minced lemon-peel,
parsley, and the yolk of an egg, all of which should be well mixed
together ; roll the larks in flour, and stuff them. Line the bottom
of a pie-dish with a few slices of beef and bacon ; over these place
the larks, and season with salt, pepper, minced parsley, and chopped
shalot, in the above proportion. Pour in the stock or water, cover
with crust, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. During the
time the pie is baking, shake it 2 or 3 times, to assist in thickening
the gravy, and serve very hot.

Time. — 1 horn'. Average cost , Is. 6 d. a dozen.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — In full season in November.

GUINEA-FOWLS.

ROAST LARKS.

972. Ingredients. — Larks, egg and bread crumbs, fresh butter.
Mode. — These birds are by many persons esteemed a great delicacy,
and may be either roasted or broiled. Pick, gut, and clean them j

480

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

when they are trussed, brush them over with the yolk of an egg ;
sprinkle with bread crumbs, and roast them before a quick fire ; baste
them continually with fresh butter, and keep sprinkling with the
bread crumbs until the birds are well covered. Dish them on bread
crumbs fried in clarified butter, and garnish the dish with slices
of lemon. Broiled larks are also very excellent : they should be cooked
over a clear fire, and would taKe about 10 minutes or \ hour.

Time. — \ hour to roast ; 10 minutes to broil.

Seasonable. — In full season in November.

Note. — Larks may also bo plainly roasted, without covering them with egg
and bread crumbs ; they should be dished on fried crumbs.

BROILED PIGEONS.

973. Ingredients. — Pigeons, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to
taste.

Mode. — Take care that the pigeons arc quite fresh, and carefully
pluck, draw, aud wash them ; split the backs, rub the birds over with
butter, season them with pepper and salt, and broil them over a
moderate fire for \ hour or 20 minutes. Serve very hot, with either
mushroom-sauce or a good gravy. Pigeons may also be plainly
boiled, and served with parsley and butter ; they should be trussed
like boiled fowls, and take from \ hour to 20 minutes to boil.

Time. — To broil a pigeon, from k hour to 20 minutes ; to boil one,
the same time.

Average cost, from 6 cl. to 9 cl. each.

Seasonable from April to September, but in the greatest perfection
from midsummer to Michaelmas.

The Pouteh Pigeox. —

rouiEit pigeox.

This is a very favourite pigeon, and, without doubt, the most
curious of his species. He is a tall strong bird, as he had
need be to carry about lus great inflated crop, frequently
as large and as round as a middling-sized turnip. A
perfect pouter, seen on a windy day, is certainly a ludicrous
sight: his feathered legs have the appearance of white
trousers; his tapering tail looks like a swallow-tailed coat;
his head is entirely concealed by his immense windy protu-
berance; aud, altogether, he reminds you of a little “swell"
of a past century, staggering under a bale of linen. The
most common pouters are the blues, buffs, and whites, or
an intermixture of all these various colours. 1 lie pouter
is not a prolitic breeder, is a bad nurse, and more likely to
degenerate, if not repeatedly crossed ami re-crossed with
fresh stock, than any other pigeon : nevertheless, it is a
useful bird to keep if you are fouudiug a new colony, as it
is much attached to its home, and little apt to stray ; con-
sequently it is calculated to induce more restless birds to
settle down and make themselves comfortable. If you
wish to breed pouters, you cauuot do worse than intrust
them with the caro of their own eggs.

POULTRY.

481

EOAST PIGEONS.

974. Ingredients. — Pigeons, 3 oz. of batter, pepper and salt to
taste.

'Trussing. — Pigeons, to be good, should be eaten fresh (if kept a
little, the flavour goes off), and they should be drawn as soon as killed.
Cut off the heads and necks, truss the wings over the backs, and cut
off the toes at the first joint : previous to trussing, they should be
carefully cleaned, as no bird requires so much washing.

Mode. — Wipe the birds very dry, season them inside with pepper
and salt, and put about | oz. of butter into the body of each : this
makes them moist. Put them down to
a bright fire, and baste them well the
whole of the time they are cooking (they
will be done enough in from 20 to 30
minutes) ; garnish with fried parsley,
and serve with a tureen of parsley and
butter. Bread-sauce and gravy, the same as for roast fowl, are exceed-
ingly nice accompaniments to roast pigeons, as also egg-sauce.

Time. — From 20 minutes to b hour. Average cost, 6 d. to 9 d. each.

Seasonable from April to September ; but in the greatest perfection
from Midsummer to Michaelmas.

BOAST BIGEON.

The Pigeon". — The pigeon tribe forms a connecting link between the passerine birds
and poultry. They are widely distributed over the world, some of the species being
found even in the arctic regions. Their chief food is grain, and they drink much;
not at intervals, like other birds, but by a continuous draught, like quadrupeds. The
wild pigeon, or stockdove, is the parent whence all the varieties of the domestic pigeon
are derived. lu the wild state it is still found in many parts of this island, making its
nest in the holes of rocks, in the hollows of trees, or in old towers, but never, like the
ringdove, on branches. The blue house-pigeon is the variety principally reared for
the table in this country, and is produced from our farmyards in great numbers. When
young, and still fed by their parents, they are most preferable for the table, and are
called squabs; under six months they are denominated squeakers, and at six months
they begin to breed. Their flesh is accounted savoury, delicate, and stimulating, and the
dark-coloured birds are considered to have the highest flavour, whilst the light are
esteemed to have the more delicate flesh.

The Pigeon-house, oe Dovecot. — The first thing to be done towards keeping
pigeons is to provide a commodious place for their reception ; and the next is, to provide
the pigeons themselves. The situation or size of the dovecot will necessarily depend
on convenience ; but there is one point which must invariably be observed, and that is,
that every pair of pigeons has two holes or rooms to nest in. This is indispensable,
as, without it, there will be no security, but the constant prospect of confusion, breaking
of eggs, and the destruction of young. The proper place for the pigeon-house is the
poultry-yard; but it does very well near dwellings, stables, brewhouses, bakehouses,
or such offices. Some persons keep pigeons in rooms, and have them making their nests
on the floor. The object is to escape the danger of the young fulling out; but in such
cases, there is a great risk of rats or other vermin getting at the pigeons.

AsrECT or the Pigeon-housb. — The front of the pigeon-house should have a south-
west aspect, and, if a room be selected for the purpose, it is usual to break a hole in the
roof oi the building for the passage of the pigeons, but which cau be closed at conveni-
ence. A platform ought to be laid at the entrance for the pigeons to perch upon,
with some kind of defence against strange cats, which will frequently depopulate a
whole dovecot. Yet, although cats are dangerous neighbours for the birds, they are
necessary to- defend them from the approaeli of rats and mice, which will not only suck

2 I

482

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

the eggs, but destroy the birds. The platform should he painted white, and renewed as
the paint wears off, white being a favourite colour with pigeons, and also most conspicuous
ns a mark to enable them to Ilnd their house. The boxes ought also to be similarly
painted, and renewed when necessary, for which purpose lime and water will do very
well.

The Necessity of Ceeaneiness.— As cleanliness in human habitations is of the first
importance, so is it iu the pigeon-house. There the want of it will Hoon render the place
a nuisance not to be approached, and the birds, both young and old, will be so covered
with vermin and filth, that they will neither enjoy health nor comfort, whilst early
mortality amongst them will be almost certain, in some cases, the pigeon-house is
cleaned daily ; but it should always be done, at any rate, once a week, and the floor
covered with sifted gravel, frequently renewed. Pigeons being exceedingly fond of
water, and having a prescience of the coming of rain, they may be seen upon the house-
tops waiting upon it until late in the evening, and then spreading their wings to receive
the luxury of the refreshing shower. When they are confined in a room, therefore, they
should be allowed a wide pan of water, to be often renewed. This serves them for a
bath, which cools, refreshes, and assists them to keep their bodies clear of vermin.

Breeding Pigeons. — In breeding pigeons, it is necessary to match a cock and lien,
and shut them up together, or place them. near to each other,' and in the course of a day
or two there is little doubt of their mating. Various rules have been laid down for
the purpose of assisting to distinguish the cock from the hen pigeon ; but the mascu-
line forwarduess and action' of the cock is generally so remarkable, that he is easily
ascertained. The pigeon being monogamous, the male attaches and confines himself to
one female, and the attachment is reciprocal, and the fidelity of the dove to its mate is

Eroverbial. At the age of six months, young pigeons are termed squeakers, and then
egin to breed, when properly managed. Their courtship, and the well-known tone of
voice in the cock, just then acquired and commencing, are indications of their approach-
ing union. Nestlings, while fed by cock and hen, are termed Bquabs, aud are, at that
age, sold and used for the table. The dove-house pigeon is said to breed monthly, when
well supplied with food. At all events, it may be depended on, that pigeons of almost
any healthy and well-established variety will breed eight or ten times in the year ; whence
it may readily be conceived how vast are the numbers that may be raised.

The Caebieb Pigeon. — Without doubt the carrier is entitled to rank first in the

pigeon family, with the exception, perhaps,
of the blue-rock pigeons. No domestic fowl
can be traced to so remote an antiquity.
When Greece wras in its glory, carrier pigeons
were used to convey to distant parts the names
of the victors at the Olympian games. During-
the holy war, when Acre was besieged by
King Bichard, Saladin habitually-corresponded
with the besieged by means of carrier pigeons.
A shaft from an English crossbow, however,
happened to bring one of these feathered mes-
sengers to the ground, and the stratagem was
discovered, the design of the Saracens re-
vealed, and so turned against the designers,
that Acre was in the hands of the Christians'
before the wily Saladin dreamt of such a thing.

CABBIES PIGEONS.

PIGEON PIE (Epsom Grand-Stand Becipe).

975. Ingredients.— l-s lb. of rump-steak, 2 or 3 pigeons, 3 slices of
ham, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 4 eggs, puff crust.

Mode— Cut the steak into pieces about 3 inches square, and with
it line the bottom of a pie-dish, seasoning it well with pepper and
salt Clean the pigeons, rub them with pepper and salt inside aud
out, and put into the body of each rather more than * oz. of butter;
lay them on the steak, and a piece of ham on each pigeon. Add the
yolks of 4 eggs, and half fill the dish with stock ; place a border ot
puff paste round the edge of the dish, put on the cover, and ornament

POULTRY.

483

it in any way that may he preferred. Clean three of the feet, and
place them in a hole made in the crust at the top : this shows what
kind of pie it is. Glaze the crust, — that is to say, brush it over with
the yolk of an egg,— and bake it in a well-heated oven for about
1^ hour. When liked, a seasoning of pounded mace may be added.

Time. — lj hour, or rather less. Average cost, 5s. 3d.

Sufficient for 5 or G persons. Seasonable at any time.

Tumbler Pigeons. — The smaller the size of this Variety, the greater its value. The
head should be round and smooth, the neelc thin, and the tail similar to that of the turbit.
Highly-bred birds of this variety will attain an
elevation in their flight beyond that of any
other pigeons ; and it is in seeing these little
birds wing themselves so far into the sides that
the fanciers take such delight. For four or five
hours tumblers have been known to keep on the
wing ; and it is when they are almost lost to the
power of human vision that they exhibit those
pantomimic feats which give them their name,
and which are marked by a tumbling over-and-
over process, which suggests the idea of their
having suddenly become giddy, been deprived
of their self-control, or overtaken by some
calamity. This aerobatic propensity in these tumbler pigeons.

pigeons has been ascribed by some to the absence

of a proper power in the tail ; but it is nothing more than a natural habit, for which no
adequate reason can be assigned. Of this variety, the Almond Tumbler is the most
beautiful ; and the greater the variation of the colour in the flight and tail, the greater
their value.

The Hunt Pigeon.— This i3 generally esteemed among the largest of the pigeon
varieties, and being possessed of proportionate
strength, with a strong propensity to exercise
it, they keep the dovecot in a state of almost
continual commotion by domineering over the
weaker inmates. They breed tolerably well,
however, and are valuable for the table. There
is both the Leghorn and the Spanish Runt,
variously plumaged ; but when red, white, or
black mottled, are most highly esteemed. One
of the great advantages connected with the
Runt is, that he is not likely to fly away from
home. Being heavy birds, they find it diffi-
cult, when well fed, to mount even to a low
housetop. Again, they require no loft, or spe-
cial dwelling-place, but, if properly tended,
will be perfectly satisfied, and thrive as well,
in a rabbit-hutch as anywhere. Their flavour is
very good; and it is not an uncommon thing

for a squeaker Runt to exceed a pound and a runt pigeons.

quarter in weight. .

The Nun Pigeon. — The Tumbler bears a
stroqg resemblance to this variety, which is
characterized by a tuft of feathers rising from
the back of the head, and which, on the
whole, is an extremely pretty little bird. Ac-
cording to the colour of the head, it is called
the red, black, or yellow-headed Nun. To be a
perfect bird, it should have a small head and
beak ; and the larger the tuft at the back of his
head, the handsomer the bird is esteemod, and
jiropor (innately valuable in the eyes of pigeon-

2 i 2

NUN PIGEONS.

484

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Tun Trumpeter Pigeon, Prom tho circumstance of this bird imitating the sound

of a trumpet, instead of cooing, like other
pigeons, it lias received its designation. It is
ot the middle size, having its legs and feet
covered with feathers, and its plumage
generally of a mottled black-and-white.
It has a tuft springing from the root of
its beak, and the larger this topknot is,
the higher the estimation in which the
breed is held. In theirpowers of trumpet-
ing some are more expert than others ;
and whether this has any effect in influ-
encing their own estimate of themselves,
we cannot say ; but they are rather select
in the choice of their company. If two of
them are put in a pigeon-house with other
doveB, it will he found that they confine
trumpeter pigeons. their association almost entirely to each

. , „ ,, , . . . other. As much as two guineas have been

paid for a well-trained docile bird of this kind.

The Wood, or Wild Pigeon. — ButFon enumerates upwards of thirty varieties of the

pigeon, which he derives from one root, —
viz. the stockdove, or common wild pigeon.
All the varieties of colour and form which
we wjjness, he attributes to human con-
trivance and fancy. Nevertheless, there
exist essentially speeiCcdiffercnces in these
birds, which would appear to be attri-
butable rather to the nature of the region,
soil, and climate to which they are indige-
nous, than to the art and ingenuity of man.
The stockdove, in its wild state, is still
found in some parts of Britain, forming
its nest in the holes of rocks, old towers,
and in the hollows of trees ; it never,
however, like the ringdove, nestles in the
branches. Multitudes of wild pigeons still
visit our shores in the winter, coming from
wood-pigeon. their more northerly retreats, making their

appearance about November, and retiring
again in the spring. When forests of beechwood covered large tracts of the ground of
this country, these birds used to haunt them in myriads, frequently covering a mile of
ground in extent when they went out in the morning to feed.

STEWED PIGEON'S.

976. Ingredients. — 6 pigeons, a few slices of bacon, 3 oz. of butter,
2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, sufficient stock No. 104 to cover
the pigeons, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of mush-
room ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port -wine.

T\Iode. — Empty and clean the pigeons thoroughly, mince the livers,
add to these the parsley and buttbr, and put it into the insides of the
birds. Truss them with the legs inward, and put them into a stewpan,
with a few slices of bacon placed under and over them ; add the stock,
and stew gently for rather more than y hour. Dish the pigeons, strain
the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, add the ketchup and port
wine, give one boil, pour over the pigeons, and serve.

Time. — leather more than % hour. Average cost, 6 d. to 9(7. each.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from April to September.

POULTRY.

4S5

The Fan tail Pigeon'. — This curious variety is inferior in point of size to most of tlie
other varieties, and is characterized by having
a short, slender bill, pendent wings, and naked
legs and l'eet. It lias the power of erecting
its tail in the manner of a turkey-cook; during
which action, especially when paying court to
its mate, it trembles or shakes, like the peacock
when moving about with his train expanded
and in full display. This power of erecting
and spreading the tail is not confined to the
male bird alone : the female possesses the
same power to an equal extent, and otherwise
resembles the male in every respect. It is
not very prolific, and seldom succeeds so well

in the aviary or pigeon-house as most of the eantaii. PIGEONS,

other kinds.

The Jacobin Pigeon.- — This variety, having the power to transmit to posterity a
form precisely similar, with all its peculiar
characters undiminished, is, among pigeon -
fanciers, designated as of a pure or permanent
race. It is distinguished by a remarkable ruff
or frill of raised feathers, which, commencing
behind the head and proceeding down the neck
and breast, forms a kind of hood, not unlike that
worn by a monk. From this circumstance, it
has obtained its Gallic name of nonnain capuchin.

In size it is one of the smallest of the domestic
pigeons, and its form is light and elegant. It
is a very productive species, and, having its
flight considerably impeded by the size and form
of its hooded frill, keeps much at home, and is

well adapted for the aviary or other buildings jacobin pigeons.

where pigeons are confined.

The Tuebii Pigeon. — This variety bears a strong resemblance to the Jacobin, having
a kind of frill in the fore part of its neck, Occa-
sioned by the breast-feathers lying contrariwise
and standing straight out. The species is classed
in accordance with the colour of the shoulders,
similarly as the N uns are by the colour of then'
heads. Their characteristics of excellence are a
full frill, short bill, and small round head. In
Germany it is called the ruflle pigeon, in allusion
to the feathers on its breast ; and it has rarely
any feathers on its feet. There is a peculiarity
connected with this bird, which somewhat lowers
it in the estimation of fanciers : it seldom rears
more than one at a time, which, therefore,

marks it as a bird rather for amusement than tuebit pigeons.

profit.

The Baeb Pigeon. — The name of this variety
country it originally comes. It is both prolific
■and has excellent qualities as a nurse. The kind
most esteemed is that of one uniform colour,
that of blue-black being preferable to any other.
Speckled or mottled Barbs are esteemed the
most common of all pigeons. It is not unlike
the Carrier pigeon, and, at a small distance,
might easily be mistaken tor the latter. It has
a short beak and a small wattle. A spongy,
pinky skin round the eyes is its chief charac-
teristic, however, und this increases in size till
•the bird is three or four years old. This pecu-
liarity is hardly distinguishable in very young
birds.

is a contraction of Barbary, from which

baeb pigeons.

486

MODERN UOUBEUOLD COOKERY.

The Bock Pigeon.— This variety, in its wild state, is found upon the rocky parte of

the west of Scotland, and the hold shores of
the Western Isles, more abundaut than in any
other parts of the British islands. As the shores
ol the inainhmcl urc exposed to the muds of the
A tlantic, and the comparatively small islands
are surrounded by that ocean, the low grounds
exposed to the west are seldom covered with
snow for any length of time, and thus the birds
easily find a supply of food. The numbers
which there congregate are often very great,
and the din of their united cry is sometimes
very loud and wen alarming. The love of home
and the certainty of returning to it is very
conspicuous in the rock-pigeon or luet, as it is
blue rock-pigeon. called by the French. Flocks from different

parts of the coasts often meet on the feeding-
grounds; but when the time of returning to rest comes round, each one keep3 toils
own party.

The Owl Pigeon. — This pigeon does not seem to be so well known as it formerly

was, if we may judge from the fact that few
modern writers mention it. Like the Turbit
pigeon, the Owl has a remarkable tuft of feathers
on the breast, it having been compared by some
to the frill of a shirt, and by others to a full-
blown white rose. In size, it is not quite to
large a pigeon as the Jacobin. It is said to be
preferred in France, above other varieties, as
a bird to rear and kill for the table. In England
it is very far from being common; indeed, we
have applied to several keepers of pigeons, who
have fancied themselves acquainted with all the
varieties of this bird, and they have been able
to tell us nothing of it. Mr. Harrison Weir,
owl pigeons. onr artist, however, has made his portrait from

the life.

BOILED BABBIT.

977. Ingredients. — Rabbit; water.

Mode. — For boiling-, choose rabbits with smooth and sharp claws,
as that denotes they are young r should these be blunt and rugged,
the ears dry and tough, the animal is old. After emptying and

skinning it, wash it well in cold water,
and let it soak for about j hour in warm
water, to draw out the blood. Bring the
head round to the side, and fasten it there
by means of a skewer run through that
and the body. Put the rabbit into suiii-
cient hot water to cover it, let it boil very gently until tender, which
will be in from \ to 5 hour, according to its size and age. Dish it,
and smother it either with onion, mushroom, or liver sauce, or
parsley-and-butter ; the former is, however, generally preferred to
any of the last-named sauces. When liver- sauce is preferred, the

liver should be boiled for a few minutes, and minced very finely, or
rubbed through a sieve before it is added to the sauce.

POULTRY.

487

Time. — A very young rabbit, i hour ; a large one, % hour ; an old
one, 1 hour or longer.

Average cost, from Is. to Is. 6 cl. each.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from September to February.

The Rabbit. — Though this animal is an inhabitant of most temperate climates, it
does not reach so far north as the hare. The wild rabbit is a native of Great Britain,
and is found in large numbers in the sandy districts of Norfolk and Cambridgeshire.
Its flesh is, by some, considered, to have a higher flavour than that of the tame rabbit,
although it is neither so white nor so delicate. The animal, however, becomes larger
and fatter in the tame than in the wild state ; but it is not desirable to have it s.o fat
as it can be made.

CURRIED RABBIT.

978. Ingredients.— 1 rabbit, 2 oz. of butter, 3 onions, 1 pint of
stock Ho. 104, 1 tablespoonful of curry powder, 1 tablespoonful of
flour, 1 teaspoonful of mushroom powder, the juice of A lemon, i lb.
of rice.

Mode. — Empty, skin, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it
neatly into joints. Put it into a stewpan with the butter and sliced
onions, and let them acquire a nice brown colour, but do not allow
them to blacken. Pour in the stock, which should be boiling ; mix
the curry powder and flour smoothly with a little water, add it to
the stock, with the mushroom powder, and simmer gently for rather
more than i hour ; squeeze in the lemon -juice, and serve in the centre
of a dish, with an edging of boiled rice all round. Where economy is
studied, water may be substituted for the stock ; in this case, the
meat and onions must be very nicely browned. A little sour apple
and rasped cocoa-nut stewed with the curry will be found a great
improvement.

Time. — Altogether f hour.

Average cost, from Is. to Is. 6 d. each.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable in winter.

The Commoh on 'Wild Rabbit. — Warrens, or inclosures,
favourable localities, and some of them are so
large as to comprise 2,000 acres. The common
w ild rabbit is of a grey colour, and is esteemed
the best for the purposes of food. Its skin is
valuable as an article of commerce, being used
for the making of hats. Another variety of the
rabbit, however, called the “ silver-grey,” has
been lately introduced to this country, and is
still more valuable. Its colour is a black ground,
thickly interspersed with grey hairs ; and its
powers as a destroyer and consumer of vegetable
food are well known to bo enormous, especially
by those who have gardens in the vicinity of
a rabbit-warren.

are frequently made

WILD BABBITS.

488

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

FRIED RABBIT.

979- Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, Hour, dripping, 1 oz. of butter, 1 tea-
spoonful of minced shalot, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.

Mode. — Cut the rabbit into neat joints, and flour them well ; make
the dripping boiling in a fryingpan, put in the rabbit, and fry it a nice
brown. Have ready a very hot dish, put in the butter, shalot, and
ketchup ; arrange the rabbit pyramidically on this, and serve as
quickly as possible. ,

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, from Is. to Is. Q>d. each.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from September to February.

Note. — The rabbit may be brushed over with egg, and sprinkled with bread
crumbs, and fried as above. When cooked in this manner, make a gravy in
the pan by recipe No. 866, and pour it round, but not over, the pieces of rabbit.

Vabietip.s in Rabbits. — Almost everybody knows that a rabbit is a furry animal,
that lives on plants, and burrows in the ground ; that it has its varieties as well as other
animals, and that it is frequently an especial favourite with boys. Among its varieties,
the short-legged, with width and substance of loin, is the most hardy, and fattens the
most expeditiously. It has, besides, the soundest liver, rabbits generally being subject
to defects of that part. It is also the smallest variety. There is a very large species of
the hare-colour, having much bone, length and depth of carcase, large and long ears,
with full eyes, resembling those of the hare : it might readily be taken for a hybrid or
mule, but for the objection to its breeding. Its flesh is high-coloured, substantial, and
more savoury than that of the common rabbit; and, cooked like the hare, it makes a
good dish. The large white, and yellow and white species, have whiter and more
delicate flesh, and, cooked in the same way, will rival the turkey. Rabbits are divided
-into four kinds, distinguished as warreners, parkers, hedgehogs, and sweethearts. The
warrener, as his name implies, is a member of a subterranean community, and is less
efiemin ate than his kindred who dwell upon the earth and have “the world at their
will,” and his fur is the most esteemed. After him, comes the parker, whose favourite
resort is a gentleman’s pleasure-ground, w here he usually breeds in great numbers, and
from which he frequently drives away the hares. The hedgehog is a sort of vagabond
rabbit, that, tinker like, roams about the country, and would have a much better coat
on his back if he was more settled in his habits, aud remained more at home. The
sweetheart is a tame rabbit, with its fur so sleek, soft, and silky, that it is also used to
some extent in the important branch of hat-making.

RABBIT A LA MINUTE.

980. Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, J lb. of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 3 dried mushrooms, 2 tablespoonfuls
of minced parsley, 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 2 glasses of sherry, 1 pint
of water.

Mode. — Empty, skiu, and wash the rabbit thoroughly, and cut it
into joints. Put the butter into a stewpan with the pieces of rabbit
add salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and let it cook until three parts
done; then put in the remaining ingredients, and boil for about 10
minutes : it will then be ready to serve. Fowls or hare may be dressed
in the same manner.

Time.— Altogether, 35 minutes. Average cost, from Is. to Is. 6 d. each.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from September to February.

POULTRY.

489

BABBIT PIE.

981. Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, a few slices of ham, salt and white
pepper to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, i teaspoonful of grated
nutmeg, a few forcemeat balls, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 3 pint of gravy ,
puff crust.

Mode. — Cut up the rabbit (which should be young), remove the
breastbone, and bone the legs. Put the rabbit, slices of ham, force-
meat balls, and hard eggs, by turns, in layers, and season each layer
with pepper, salt, pounded mace, and grated nutmeg. Pour in
about i pint of water, cover with crust, and bake in a well-heated oven
for about l| hour. Should the crust acquire too much colour, place a
piece of paper over it to prevent its burning. When done, pour in at
the top, by means of the hole in the middle of the crust, a little good
gravy, which may be made of the breast- and leg-bones of the rabbit
and 2 or 3 shank-bones, flavoured with onion, herbs, and spices.

Time. — 1| hour. Average cost, from Is. to Is. 6 cl. each.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from September to February.

Note. — The liver of the rabbit may be boiled, minced, and mixed with the
forcemeat balls, when the flavour is liked .

Fecundity op the Rabbit. — The fruitfulness of this animal has been the subject of
wonder to all naturalists. It breeds seven times in the year, and generally begets
seven or eight young ones at a time. If we suppose this to happen regularly for a period
of four years, the progeny that would spring from a single pair would amount to more
than a million. As the rabbit, however, has many enemies, it can never be permitted to
increase in numbers to such an extent as to prove injurious to mankind ; for it not only
furnishes man with an article of food, but is, by carnivorous animals of every descrip-
tion, mercilessly sacrificed. Notwithstanding this, however, in the time of the Roman
power, they once infested the Balearic islands to such an extent, that the inhabitants
were obliged to implore the assistance of a military force from Augustus to exterminate
them.

RAGOUT OP RABBIT OR HARE.

982. Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, 3 teaspoonfuls of flour, 3 sliced onions,
2 oz. of butter, a few thin slices of bacon, pepper and salt to taste,
2 slices of lemon, 1 bay-leaf, 1 glass of port wine.

Mode. — Slice the onions, and put them into a stewpan with the flour
and butter ; place the pan near the fire, stir well as the butter melts,
till the onions become a rich brown colour, and add, by degrees, a little
water or gravy till the mixture is of the consistency of cream. Cut
some thin slices of bacon ; lay in these with the rabbit, cut into neat
joints ; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, the lemon and bay-leaf,
and let the whole simmer until tender. Pour in the port wine, give
one boil, and serve.

Time. — About h hour to simmer the rabbit.

490

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Average cost, from Is. to Is. (id. each. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from September to February.

Titf. Rabbit-tiousk.— Rublnt-lceeping is generally practised by a few individuals in
nlrnosl; every town, and by a few in almost every part of the country. Forty years
ago, there were in the metropolis one or two considerable feeders, who, according to
report, kept from 1,500 to 2,000 breeding does. These large establishments, however,
have censed to exist, and London receives the supply of tame ns well as wild rabbits
chiefly from the country. Where they are kept, however, the rabbit-house should be
placed upon a dry foundation, and be well ventilated. Exposure to rain, whether ex-
ternally or internally, is fatal to rabbits, which, like sheep, are liable to the rot, springing
from the same causes. Thorough ventilation and good air are indispensable where many
rabbits are kept, or they will neither prosper nor remain healthy for any length of time.
A thorough draught or passage for the air is, therefore, absolutely necessary, and should
be so contrived as to be checked in cold or wet weather by the closing or shutting of
opposite doors or windows.

ROAST OR BAKED RABBIT.

P'83. Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, forcemeat No. 417, buttered paper,
sausage-meat.

Mode. — Empty, skin, and thoroughly wash the rabbit ; wipe it dry,
fine the inside with sausage-meat and forcemeat made by recipe No. 417,
and to which has been added the minced liver. Sew the stuffing inside,

skewer back the head between the shoulders,
cut off the fore -joints of the shoulders
and legs, bring them close to the body, and
secure them by means of a skewer. Wrap
the rabbit in buttered paper, and put it
down to a bright clear fire ; keep it well basted, and a few minutes
before it is done remove the paper, Hour and froth it, and let it acquire
a nice brown colour. Take out the skewers, and serve with brown
gravy and red-currant jelly. To bake the rabbit, proceed in the same
manner as above : in a good oven, it will take about the same time as
Toasting.

Time.— A young rabbit, 35 minutes ; a large one, about § hour.

Average cost, from Is. to Is. 6 d. each. Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from September to February.

The Hutch. — Hutches are generally .placed one above another to the height required
by the number of rabbits and the extent ol' the room. Where a large stock is kept, to
make the most of room, the hutches may be placed in rows, with a sufficient interval
between for feeding and cleaning, instead of being, in the usual way, joined to the wall.
It is preferable to rest the hutches upon stands, about a foot above the ground, for the
convenience of cleauing under them. Each of the hutches intended for breeding should
have two rooms, — a feeding and a bed-room. Those are single for the use of the weaned .
rabbits, or for the bucks, which are always kept separate. The floors should be planed
smooth, that wet may run oil', and a common lioe, with a short handle, and a short broom,
■are most convenient implements for cleaning these houses.

STEWED BABBIT.

984. Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, 2 large onions, 6 cloves, 1 small tea-
spoonful of chopped lemon-peel, a few forcemeat balls, thickening of
butter and flour, 1 large tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup.

ROAST BABBIT.

POULTRY.

491

Mode. — Cut the rabbit into small joints ; put them into a stewpan,
add the onions sliced, the cloves, and minced lemon-peel. Pour in
sufficient water to cover the meat, and, when the rabbit is nearly done,
drop in a few forcemeat balls, to which has been added the liver, finely
chopped. Thicken the gravy with flour and butter, put in the ketchup,
give one boil, and serve.

Time. — Rather more than y hour. Average cost, Is. to Is. 6 d. each.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from September to February.

Faxct Babbits. — The graceful fall of the cars is the first thing that is looked to by
the fancier ; next, the dewlap, if the animal is in its prime ; then the colours and marked
points, and, lastly, the shape and ' general
appearance. The ears of a tine rabbit should
extend not less than seven inches, measured
from tip to tip in a line across the skull; but
even should they exceed this length, they are
admitted with reluctance into a fancy stock,
unless they have a uniform and graceful droop.

The dewlap, which is a fold of skin under the
neck and throat, is only seen in fancy rabbits,
after they have attained their full growth : it
commences immediately under the jaw, and
adds greatly to the beauty of their appearance.

It goes down the throat and between the fore
legs, and is so broad that it projects beyond lop-babed babbit.

the chin.

The difference between t’e fancy and common rabbit in the hack, independent of the-
ears, is sufficient to strike the common observer. Fancy rabbits fetch a very high price ;
so much as five and ten guineas, and even more, is sometimes given for a first-rate doe.
If young ones are first procured from a good family, the foundation of an excellent stock
can be procured for a much smaller sum. Sometimes the ears, instead of drooping
down, slope backwards : a rabbit with this characteristic is scarcely admitted into a
fancy lot, and is not considered worth more than the common variety. The next position
is when one ear lops outwards, and the other stands erect : rabbits of this kind possess
but little value, however fine the shape and beautiful the colour, although they sometimes
breed as good specimens as finer ones.

The forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the lialf-lop : the ears,
in this case, slope forward and down over the forehead. Rabbits with this peculiarity
are often perfect in other respects, with the exception of the droop of the ears, and
often become the parents of perfect young ones : does of this kind often have the power
of lifting an ear erect. In the ear-lop, the ears spread out in an horizontal position, like-
the wings of a bird in flight, or the arms of a man swimming. A great many excellent
does have this characteristic, and some of the best-bred bucks in the fancy are entirely
so. Sometimes a rabbit drops one ear completely, but raises the other so nearly
horizontally as tp constitute an ear-lop : this is superior to all others, except the perfect
fall, which is so rarely to be met with, that those which are merely ear-lopped are
considered as valuable rabbits, if well bred and with other goo I qualities.

“ The real lop has ears that hang down by the side of the cheek, slanting somewhat
outward in their descent, with the open part of the ear inward, and sometimes either
backwards or forwards instead of perpendicular : when the animals stand in an easy
position, the tips of the ears touch the ground. The hollows of the ears, in a fancy
rabbit of a first-rate kind, should be turned so completely backwards that only the outer
part of them should remain in front : they should match exactly in their descent, and
should slant outwards as little as possible.’'

The same authority asserts that perfect lops are so rare, that a breeder possessing
twenty of the handsomest and most perfect does would consider himself lucky if, in
the course of a year, he managed to raise tw-elve full-lopped rabbits out of them all. As-
regards variety and purity of colour, an experienced breeder says : —

“ The fur of fancy rabbits may be blue, or rather lead-colour, and white, or black and
white, or tawny and white, that is, tortoiseshell-coloured. But it is not of so much
importance what colours the coat of a rabbit displays, as it is that those colours shall be
arranged in a particular manner, forming imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to
certain objects. Hence the peculiarities of their markings have been denoted by dis-

492

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

tinotive designations. Wlmt is termed ‘ the blue butterfly smut ’ was, for some time,
considered the most valuable of fancy rabbits. It is thus mimed on account of having
bluish or lead-coloured spots on cither side of the nose, having some resemblance to the
spread wings of a butterfly, what may be termed the groundwork of the rabbit's face
being white. A black and white rabbit may also have the face marked in a similar
manner, constituting a ‘ black butterfly smut.'

“ But, a good fancy rabbit must likewise have other marks, without which it cannot
be considered a perfect model of its kind. There should be a black or blue patch on
its back, called the saddle ; the tail must be of the same colour with the back and snout ;
while the legs should bo all white; and there ought to be dark stripes on both sides of
the body in front, passing backwards to meet the saddle, and uniting on the top of the
shoulders at the part called the withers in a horse. These stripes form what is termed
the ‘ chain,’ having somewhat the appearance of a chain or collar hanging round
the neelc.

“ Among thorough-bred fancy rabbits, perhaps not one in a hundred will have all
these markings clearly and exactly displayed on the coat ; but the more nearly the
figures on the coat of a rabbit approach to the pattern described, the greater will be
its value, so far, at least, ns relates to colour. The beauty and consequent worth of a
fancy rabbit, however, depends a good deal on its shape, or what is styled its carriage.
A rabbit is said to have a good carriage when its hack is finely arched, rising util
two inches above the top of its head, which must be held so low as for the muzzle and
the points of the ears to reach almost to the ground.”

STEWED BABBIT, Larded.

985. Ingredients. — 1 rabbit, a few strips of bacon, rather more than
1 pint of good broth or stock, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepper
to taste, thickening of butter and tiour, 1 glass of sherry.

Mode. — Well wash the rabbit, cut it into quarters, lard them with
slips of bacon, and fry them ; then put them into a stewpan with the
broth, herbs, and a seasoning of pepper and salt ; simmer gently until
the rabbit is tender, then strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and
flour, add the sherry, give one boil, pour it over the rabbit, and serve.
Garnish with slices of cut lemon.

Time. — Rather more than 5 hour. Average cost, Is. to Is. 6 d. each.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from September to February.

The Habe-Rabbit. — There has been lately introduced to French tables an animal

called the “ Hare-rabbit,” partaking of
the nature, characteristics, and qualifica-
tions of both the hare and the rabbit. It
is highly spoken of, both as regards flesh
and flavour ; and it is said to be the only
hybrid which is able to perpetuate its
race. We hope that some enterprising
individual will soon secure for English
tables what would seem, to be a really
valuable addition to our other game and
poultry dishes ; although it will be rather
difficult to exactly assign its proper posi-
tion, as within or without the meaning of
“game,” as by law established. Only a
few specimens have been seen in England
at present, but there is no reason to
cloukt that our rabbit-fanciers will prove
the habe-eAbbit. equal to the occasion, and cope success-

fully with our neighbours across the Channel in introducing a new animal serviceable in
the kitchen.

POULTRY.

493

The Angora Rabbit. — This is one of the handsomest of all rabbits. It takes its name
from being an inhabitant of Angora, a city and district of Asia Minor. Like the well-
known Angora goat and cat, both of which are
valuable on account of the fineness of their
wool and fur, this rabbit is prized for its long,
waved, silky fur, which, as an artiole of com-
merce, is highly esteemed. We are not aware
whether it is eaten by the inhabitants, and but
few specimens have been introduced into Eng-
land, where, doubtless, the beauty of its coat
would materially suffer from the more humid
and less genial character of the climate. To the
rabbits of the ancient and mountainous district
of Angora the words of the wise man would
seem most to apply, “The conies are but feeble
folic, yet make they their houses in the rocks.” angora babbit.

The Himalaya Rabbit. — Amidst the mighty
Himalaya mountains, whose peaks are the high-
est on the globe, the pretty rabbit here por-
trayed is found ; and his colour seems to be like
the snow, which, above the altitude of from
13,000 to 16,000 feet, perpetually crowns the
summits of these monarehs of the world. It is,
at present, a very rare animal in England, but
will, doubtless, be more extensively known in
the course of a few years. From the earth-
tunnelling powers of this little animal, Martial
declares that manldnd learned the art of forti-
fication, mining, and covered roads.

HIMALAYA BABBITS.

BOILED TURKEY.

9R6. Ingredients. — Turkey; forcemeat No. 417.

Choosing and Trussing. — Hen turkeys are preferable for boiling-,
on account of their whiteness and tenderness, and one of moderate
size should be selected, as a large one is not suitable for this mode of
cooking. They should not be dressed until they have been killed 3 or
4 days, as they will neither look white, nor will they be tender.
Pluck the bird, carefully draw, and singe it with a piece of white
paper ; wash it inside and out, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a
cloth. Cut off the head and neck, draw the strings or sinews' of the
thighs, and cut off the legs at the first joint ; draw the legs into the
body, fill the breast with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417 ; run a
skewer through the wing and the middle joint of the leg, quite into
the leg and wing on the opposite side ; break the breastbone, and
make the bird look as round and as compact as possible.

Mode.— Put the turkey into sufficient hot water to cover it ; let it
come to a boil, then carefully remove
all the scum : if this is attended to, there
is no occasion to boil the bird in a floured
cloth ; but it should be well covered with
the water. Let it simmer very gently
for about \\ hour to If hour, according

boiled turkey.

494

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

to Hie size, and serve with either white, celery, oyster, or mushroom
sauce, or parsley-and-butter, a little of which should be poured over
the turkey. Boiled ham, bacon, tongue, or pickled pork, should
always accompany this dish; and when oyster sauce is served, the
turkey should be stuffed with oyster forcemeat.

Time. — A small turkey, 1 j hour ; a large one, if hour.

Average cost, 5s. Gd. to 7 s. Gd. each, but more expensive at Christmas,
on account of the great demand.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from December to February.

The Turkey. — The turkey, for which fine bird we are indebted to America, is
certainly one of the most glorious presents made by the New World to the Old. Some,
indeed, assert that this bird was known to the ancients, and that it was served at the wed-
ding-feast of Charlemagne. This opinion, however, has been controverted by first-rato
authorities, who declare that the French name of the bird, rlindon, proves its origin ;
that the form of the bird is altogether foreign, and that it is found in America alone in
a wild state. There is but little doubt, from the information which has been .gained
at considerable trouble, that it appeared, generally, in Europe about the end of the 17th
century; that it was first imported into France by Jesuits, who had been sent out
missionaries to the West ; aud that from France it spread over Europe. To this day,
in many localities in France, a turkey is called a jesutt. On the farms of N. America,
where turkeys are very common, they are raised either from eggs which have been
found, or from young ones caught in the woods : they thus preserve almost entirely
their original plumage. The turkey only became gradually acclimated, both on the
continent and in England : in the middle of the 18th century, scarcely 10 out of 20
young turkeys lived ; now, generally speaking, 15 out of the same number arrive at
maturity.

CROQUETTES OF TURKEY 'Cold Meat Cookery).

9&7. Ingredients. — The remains of cold turkey ; to every § lb. of
meat allow 2 oz. of ham or bacon, 2 shalots, 1 oz. of butter, 1 table-
spoonful of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, egg and bread crumbs.

Mode. — The smaller pieces, that will not do for a fricassee or hash,
nuswer very well for this dish. Mince the meat finely with ham or
bacon in the above proportion ; make a gravy of the bones and trim-
mings, well seasoning it ; mince the shalots, put them into a stewpan
■with the butter, add the flour; mix well, then put in the mince, and
about \ pint of the gravy made from the bones. (The proportion of the
butter must be increased or diminished according to the quantity of
mince.) When just boiled, add the yolks of 2 eggs ; put the mixture
out to cool, and then shape it in a wineglass. Cover the croquettes
with egg and bread crumbs, and fry them a delicate brown. Put
small pieces of parsley-stems for stalks, and serve with rolled bacon
cut very thin.

Time.— 8 minutes to fry the croquettes.

Seasonable from December to February.

Tjie Wild Turkey. — In its wild state, the turkey is gregarious, going together in
extensive flocks, numbering as many as live hundred. These frequent the grent swamps
of America, where they roost; but, at sunrise, leave these situations to repair to the dry

POULTRY.

495

woods, in search of berries and acorns. They perch on the boughs of trees, and, by
rising from branch to branch, attain the height they desire. Q'hcy usually mount to the-
highest tops, apparently from an instinctivo conception that the loftier they are tho-
further they are out of danger. They fly awkwardly, but run with great swiftness, and
about the month of March become so fat as not to be able to take a flight beyond three
or four hundred yards, and are then, also, easily run down by a horseman. Wow, how-
ever, it rarely happens that wild turkeys are seen in the inhabited parts of America.
It is only in the distant and more unfrequented parts that they are found in great
numbers.

FRICASSEED TURKEY (Cold Meat Cookery).

988. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast or boiled turkey ; a
strip of lemon-peel, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 onion, pepper and salt
to taste, 1 pint of water, 4 tnblespoonfuls of cream, the yolk of an egg.

Mode. — Cut some nice slices from the remains of a cold turkey, and
put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan, with the lemon-peel,
herbs, onion, pepper, salt, and the water ; stew for an hour, strain
the gravy, and lay in the pieces of turkey. When warm through, add
the cream and the yolk of an egg ; stir it well round, and, when getting
thick, take out the pieces, lay them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce
over. Garnish the fricassee with sippets of toasted bread. Celery or
cucumbers, cut into small pieces, may be put into the sauce ; if the
former, it must be boiled first.

Time. — 1 hour to make the gravy.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold turkey, 4 d.

Seasonable from December to February.

The Turret. — This is one of the gallinaceous birds, the principal genera of which arer
Pheasants, Turkeys, Peacocks, Bustards, Pintatoes, and Grouse. They live mostly on
the ground, scraping the earth with their feet, and feeding on seeds and grains, which,
previous to digestion, are macerated in their crops. They usually associate in families,
consisting of one male and several females. Turkeys are particularly fond of the seeds
of nettles, whilst the seeds of the foxglove will poison them. The common turkey is a
native of North America, and, in the reign of Henry VIII., was introduced into England.
According to Tusser’s “ Pive Hundred Points of Good Husbandry,” it began about the
year 1585 to form a dish at our rural Christmas feasts

“ Beele, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best,

Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well drest ;

Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear,

As then in the country is counted good cheer.”

The turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear, and its flesh is much esteemed.

The Disposition- or the Turkey. — Among themselves, turkeys are extremely
furious, whilst amongst other animals they are usually both weak and cowardly. The
domestic cock frequently makes them keep at a distance, whilst they will rarely attack
mm but in a united body, when the cock is rather crushed by their weight than aefeated
by their prowess. The disposition of the female is in general much more gentle than
that ot the' male. When leading forth her young to collect their food, though so large
and apparently so povyeriul a bird, she gives them very slight protection from the attacks.

f raPac;lous animal wliich may appear against them. She rather warns them
ot their danger than offers to defend them; yet Bhe is extremely affectionate to her
young. J

HASHED TURKEY.

9^9. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast turkey, 1 onion,
pepper and salt to taste, rather more than 1 pint of water, 1 carrot, 1

496

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

turnip, 1 blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of
mushroom ketchup, 1 tablespoonful of port wine, thickening of butter
and flour.

Mode. — Cut the turkey into neat joints ; the best pieces reserve for
the hash, the inferior joints and trimmings put into a stewpan with
an onion cut in slices, pepper and salt, a carrot, turnip, mace, herbs,
and water in the above proportion ; simmer these for an hour, then
strain the gravy, thicken it with butter and flour, flavour with
ketchup and port wine, and lay in the pieces of turkey to warm
through ; if there is any stuffing left, put that in also, as it so much
improves the flavour of the gravy. When it boils, serve, and garnish
the dish with sippets of toasted bread.

Time. — 1 hour to make the gravy.

Seasonable from December to February.

Hunting Tuekeys. — Formerly, in Canada, hunting turkeys was one of the principal
diversions of the natives of that country. AVhen they discovered the retreat of the
birds, which was generally near a field of nettles, or where grain of any kind was plentiful,
they would send a well-trained dog into the midst of the flock. The turkeys no sooner
perceived their enemy than they would run off at full speed, and with such swiftness
that they would leave the dog far behind. He, however, Would follow in their wake,
and as they could not, for a great length of time, continue at their speed, they were at
last forced to seek shelter in the trees. There they would sit, spent with’ fatigue,
till the hunters would approach, and, with long poles, knock them down one after
the other.

ROAST TURKEY.

990. Ingredients. — Turkey ; forcemeat No. 417.

Choosing and Trussing. — Choose cock turkeys by their short spurs
and black legs, in which case they are young ; if the spurs are long,
and the legs pale and rough, they are old. If the bird has been long
killed, the eyes will appear sunk and the feet very dry ; but, if fresh,
the contrary will be the case. Middling-sized fleshy turkeys are by
many persons considered superior to those of an immense growth, as
they are, generally speaking, much more tender. They should never
be dressed the same day they are killed ; but, in cold weather, should
hang at least 8 days ; if the weather is mild, 4 or 5 days will
be found sufficient. Carefully pluck the bird, singe it with white
paper, and wipe it thoroughly with a cloth ; draw it, preserve the
liver and gizzard, and be particular not to break the gall-bag, as no
washing will remove the bitter taste it imparts where it once touches.
Wash it inside well, and wipe it thoroughly dry with a cloth ; the
outside merely requires nicely wiping, as we have just stated. Cut
off the neck close to the back, but leave enough of the crop-skin to
turn over; break the leg-bone close below the knee, draw out the
strings from the thighs, and flatten the breastbone to make it look

POULTRY.

497

BOAST TURKEY.

plump. Have ready a forcemeat made by recipe Ho. 417 ; fill the
breast with this, and, if a trussiug-needle is used, sew the neck over
to the back ; if a needle is not at hand, a skewer will answer the
purpose. Run a skewer through the pinion and thigh into the body

to the pinion and thigh on the other

side, and press the legs as much as pos-
sible between the breast and the side
bones, and put the liver under one pinion
and the gizzard under the other. Pass
a string across the back of the bird, catch
it over the points of the skewer, tie

it in the centre of the back, and be particular that the turkey is very
firmly trussed. This may be more easily accomplished with a needle
and twine than with skewers.

Mode. — hasten a ‘sheet of buttered paper on to the breast of the
bird, put it down to a bright fire, at some little distance at first
(afterwards draw it nearer), and keep it well basted the whole of the
time it is cooking. About \ hour before serving, remove the paper,
dredge the turkey lightly with flour, and put a piece of butter into
the basting-ladle ; as the butter melts, baste the bird with it. When
of a nice brown and well frothed, serve with a tureen of good brown
gravy and one of bread sauce. Pried sausages are a favourite addition
to roast turkey ; they make a pretty garnish, besides adding very
much to the flavour. When these are not at hand, a few forcemeat
balls should be placed round the dish as a garnish. Turkey may
also be stuffed with sausage-meat, and a chestnut forcemeat with the
same sauce is, by many persons, much esteemed as an accompaniment
to this favourite dish.— See coloured plate, Al.

Time. — Small turkey, l i- hour ; moderate-sized one, about 10 lbs.,
2 hours ; large turkey, 2i hours, or longer.

Average cost, from 10s. to 12s%, but expensive at Christmas, on
account of the great demand.

Sufficient. — A moderate-sized turkey for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from December to February.

English Tubkeys. — Those are reared in groat numbers in Suffolk, Norfolk, and
several other counties, whence they were wont to be driven to the London market in
flocks of several hundreds ; the improvements in our modes of travelling now', however,
enable them to be brought by railway. Their drivers used to manage them with great
facility, by means of a bit of red rag tied to the end of a long stick, which, from the
antipathy these birds have to that colour, effectually answered the purpose of a scourge.
There are three varieties of the turkey in this country, — 1 he black, the white, and the
speckled, or copper-coloured. The black approaches nearest to the original stock, and
is esteemed the best. Its flesh is white and tender, delicate, nourishing, and of excellent
flavour ; it greatly deteriorates with age, however, and is then good for little but
stewing.

498

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ROAST TURKEY POULTS.

991. Ingredients. — Turkey poult; butter.

Choosing and Trussing. — Choose a plump bird, and truss it in the
following manner : — After it has been carefully plucked, drawn, and
singed, skin the neck, and fasten the head under the wing ; turn the
legs at the first joint, and bring the feet close to the thighs, as a
woodcock should be trussed, and do not stuff it.

Mode. — Put it down to a bright fire, keep it well basted, and at
first place a piece of paper on the breast to prevent its taking too
much, colour. About 10 minutes before serving, dredge it lightly
with flour, and baste well ; when nicely frothed, send it to table
immediately, with a little gravy in the dish, and some in a tureen.
If at hand, a few water-cresses may be placed round the turkey as a
garnish, or it may be larded.

Time. — About 1 hour. Average cost, 7s. to 8s. each.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable. — In full season from June to October.

The Feathehs of the Tuekey. — Human ingenuity subjects almost every material
to the purposes of ornament or use, and the feathers of turkeys have been found adapted
for more cuds than one. The American Indians convert them into an elegant clothing,
and, by twisting the inner ribs into a strong double string, with hemp or the inner bark
of the mulberrv-tree, work it like matting. This fabric has a very rich and glossy
appearance, and is as fine as silk shag. The natives of Louisiana used to make fans of
the tail ; and four of that appendage joined together was formerly constructed into a
parasol by the French.

TO BONE A TURKEY OR FOWL WITHOUT OPENING IT.

( Mias Acton’s Recipe.)

992. After the fowl has been drawn and singed, wipe it inside and
out with a clean cloth, but do not wash it. Take off the head, cut
through the skin all round the first joint of the legs, and pull them
from the fowl, to draw out the large tendons. Raise the flesh first
from the lower part of the backbone, and a little also from the end of
the breastbone, if necessary ; work the knife gradually to the socket
of the thigh ; with the point of the knife detach the joint from it,
take the end of the bone firmly in the fingers, and cut the flesh clean
from it down to the next joint, round which pass the point of the
knife carefully, and when the skin is loosened from it in every part,
cut round the next bone, keeping the edge of the knife close to it,
until the whole of the leg is done, ltemove the bones of the other
leg in the same manner ; then detach the flesh from the back- and.
breast-bone sufficiently to enable you to reach the upper joints of the
wings ; proceed with these as with the legs, but be especially careful

TOULTRY.

499

not to pierce the skin of the second joint : it is usual to leave the
pinions iinboned, in order to give more easily its natural form to the
fowl when it is dressed. The merrythought and neck-hones may now
easily be cut away, the back- and side-bones taken out without being
divided, and the breastbone separated carefully from the flesh (which,
as the work progresses, must be turned back from the bones upon the
fowl, until it is completely inside out). After the one remaining bone
is removed, draw the wings and legs back to their proper form, and
turn the fowl right side outwards.

993. A turkey is boned exactly in the same manner; but as it
requires a very large proportion of forcemeat to fill it entirely, the
legs and wings are sometimes drawn into the body, to diminish the
expense of this. If very securely trussed, and sewn, the bird may
be either boiled, or stewed in rich gravy, as well as roasted, after
being boned and forced ; but it must be most gently cooled, or it may
burst.

ANOTHER MODE OF BONING A TURKEY OR FOWL.

(Miss Acton’s Recipe.)

994. Cut through the skin down the centre of the back, and raise
the flesh carefully on either side with the point of a sharp knife, until
the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. Till a little practice
has been gained, it will perhaps be better to bone these joints before
proceeding further ; but after they are once detached from it, the
whole of the body may easily be separated from the flesh and taken
out entire : only the neck-bones and merrythought will then remain
to be removed. The bird thus prepared may either be restored to its
original form, by filling the legs and wings with forcemeat, and the
body with the livers of two or three fowls, mixed with alternate layers
of parboiled tongue freed from the rind, fine sausage-meat, or veal
forcemeat, or thin slices of the nicest bacon, or aught else of good
flavour, which will give a marbled appearance to the fowl when it is
carved ; and then be sewn up and trussed as usual ; or the legs and
wings may be drawn inside the body, and the bird being first flattened
on a table, may be covered with sausage-meat, and the various other
ingredients we have named, so placed that it shall be of equal thick-
ness in every part ; then tightly rolled, bound firmly together with a
fillet of broad tape, wrapped in a thin pudding-cloth, closely tied at
both ends, and dressed as follows : — Put it into a braising-pan, stew-
pan, or thick iron saucepan, bright in the inside, and fitted as nearly
as may be to its size ; add all the chicken-bones, a bunch of sweet
herbs, twojcarrots, two bay-leaves, a large blade of mace, twenty-four

2 k 2

500

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

white peppercorns, and any trimmings or bones of undressed veal
which may be at hand ; cover the whole with good veal broth, add
salt, if needed, and stew it very softly, from an hour and a quarter to
an hour and a half ; let it cool in the liquor in which it was stewed ;
and after it is lifted out, boil down the gravy to a jelly and strain it ;
let it become cold, clear off the fat, and serve it cut into large dice or
roughed, and laid round the fowl, which is to be served cold. If
restored to its form, instead of being rolled, it must be stewed gently
for an hour, and may then be sent to table hot, covered with mush-
room, or any other good sauce that may be preferred ; or it may be
left until the following day, and served garnished with the jelly,
which should be firm, and very clear and well-flavoured : the liquor
in which a calf’s foot has been boiled down, added to the broth, will
give it the necessary degree of consistence.

TO BONE FOWLS FOB, FRICASSEES, CURRIES, & PIES.

995. First carve them entirely into joints, then remove the bones,
beginning with the legs and wings, at the head of the largest bone ;
hold this with the fingers, and work the knife as directed in the
recipe above. The remainder of the birds is too easily done to
require any instructions.

TO DRESS WHEATEARS.

99 6. Ingredients. — Wheatears ; fresh butter.

Mode. — After the birds are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them
like larks, put them down to a quick fire, and baste them well with
fresh butter. When done, which will be in about 20 minutes, dish
them on fried bread crumbs, and garnish the dish with slices of lemon.

Time. — 20 minutes.

Seasonable from July to October.

The Wheateab. — The wheatear is an annual visitor of England : it arrives about
the middle of March and leaves in September. The females come about a fortnight
before the males, and continue to arrive till the middle of May. They are in season
from July to October, and are taken in large numbers on the South Downs, in the
neighbourhood of Eastbourne, Brighton, and other parts of Sussex. They are taken
by means of snares and nets, and numbers of them are eateu on the spot by the inhabi-
tants. The larger ones are sent to London and potted, where they are by many as
much esteemed as the ortolans of the continent. Mr. Pennant assigns as the reason of
their abounding on the downs about Eustbourne, the existence of a species of fly
which forms their favourite food, and which feeds on the wild thyme on the adjacent
hills.

997. The Guinea-Pig. — This common hutch-companion of the rabbit, although origi-
nally a native of Brazil, propagates freely in Engluud and other European countries. A\ ere
it not that they sutler cruelly from cats, and numerous other enemies, and that it is the
habit of tho males to devour their own offspring, their numbers would soon become over-
whelming. Hats, however, it is said, carefully avoid them ; and for this reason they are

POULTRY.

501

frequently bred by rabbit-fanciers, by way of protection for their young stock against
those troublesome vermin. The lower tier of a rabbit-hutch is esteemed excellent
quarters by the guinea-pig : here, as he runs
loose, he will devour the waste food of his more
admired companion. Some naturalists assert
that the guinea-pig will breed at two months
old, the litter varying from four to twelve at a
time. It is varied in colour, — white, fawn, and
black, and a mixture of the three colours, form-
ing a tortoiseshell, which is the more generally
admired hue. Occasionally, the white ones
have red eyes, like those of the ferret and the
white rabbit. Their flesh, although eatable, is
decidedly unfit for food ; they have been tasted,
however, we presume by some enthusiast eager
to advance the cause of science, or by some the gttinea-eig.

eccentric epicure in search of a new pleasure _

for his palate. Unless it has been that they deter rats from intruding within the ^abbit-
hutch, they are as useless as they are harmless. The usual ornament of an animal's hind
quarters is denied them ; and were it not for this fact, and also for their difference in
colour, the Shaksperean locution, “ a rat without a tail,” would designate them very
properly.

99S. The Cygnet. — The Cygnet, or the young Swan, was formerly much esteemed ; but
it has “ fallen from its high estate," and is

now rarely seen upon the table. We are
not sure that it is not still fattened in
Norwich for the corporation of thatplace.
Persons who have property on the river
there, take the young birds, and send them
to some one who is employed by the cor-
poration, to be fed ; and for this trouble
he is paid, or was wont to be paid, about
half a guinea a bird. It is as the future
bird of elegance and grace that the young
swan is mostly admired ; when it has be-
come old enough to grace the waters,
then it is- that all admire her, when she
with

“ Arched neck,

Between her white wings mantling,
proudly rows
Her state with oary feet.”

THE CYGNET.

POULTRY CARVING.

ROAST DUCK.

999. No dislies require so much knowledge and skill in their earring
as do game and poultry ; for it is necessary to he well acquainted with
the anatomy of the bird and animal in order
to place the knife at exactly the proper
point. A tough fowl and an old goose are
sad triers of a carver’s powers and temper, ho vst deck

and, indeed, sometimes of the good humour

of those in the neighbourhood of the carver ; for a sudden tilt of the

502

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

dish may eventuate in the placing; a quantity of the gravy in the lap
of the right or left-hand supporter of the host. We
will endeavour to assist those who are unacquainted
with the “ gentle art of carving,” and also those who
are but .slightly acquainted with it, by simply de-
scribing the rules to follow, and referring to the dis-
tinctly-marked illustrations of each dish, which will
further'help to bring light to the minds of the unini-
tiated. If the bird be a young duckling, it may be
carved like a fowl, viz., by first taking off the leg and
the wing on either side, as described at No. 1000 ; but
in eases where the duckling is very small, it will be
as well not to separate the leg from the wing, as they
will not then form too large a portion for a single
serving. After the legs and wings are disposed of, the remainder of
the duck will be also carved in the same manner as a fowl ; and not
much difficulty will be experienced, as ducklings are tender, and the
joints are easily broken by a little gentle forcing, or penetrated by the
knife. In cases where the duck is a large bird, the better plan to
pursue is then to carve it like a goose, that is, by cutting pieces from
the breast in the direction indicated by the lines marked from 1 to 2,
commencing to carve the slices close to the wing, and then proceeding
upwards from that to the breastbone. If more should be wanted than
can be obtained from both sides of the breast, then the legs and wings
must be attacked, in the same way as is described in connection with
carving a fowl. It may be here remarked, that as the legs of a duck
are placed far more backward than those of a fowl, their position
causing the waddling motion of the bird, the thigh-bones will be found
considerably nearer towards the backbone than in a chicken : this is
the only difference worth mentioning. The carver should ask each
guest if a portion of stuffing would be agreeable ; and in order to get
at this, a cut should be made below the breast, as shown by the line
from 3 to 4, at the part called the “ apron,” and the spoon inserted.
(As described in the recipe, it is an excellent plan, wrhen a couple of
ducks are served, to have one with, and the other without stuffing.)
As to the prime parts of a duck, it has been said that “ the wing of a
flier and the leg of a swimmer ” are severally the best portions.
Some persons are fond of the feet of the duck ; and, in trussing, these
should never be taken off. The leg, wing, and neckbone are here
shown ; so that it will be easy to see the shape they should be when
cut off.

LEG, WING,
AND NECKBONE
OF DUCK.

POULTRY.

503

BOILED fowl.

looo. This will not be found a very difficult member of the poultry
family to carve, unless, as may happen, a very old farmyard oc-
cupant, useless for egg-laying1 purposes, has,
by some unlucky mischance, been introduced
into the kitchen as a “ fine young chicken.”

Skill, however, and the application of a small
amount of strength, combined with a fine
keeping of the temper, will even get over that
difficulty. Fixing the fork firmly in the breast, let the knife be
sharply passed along the line shown from 1 to 2 ; then cut downwards
from that line to fig. 3 ; and the wing, it will be found, can be easily
withdrawn. The shape of the wing should be like the accompanying
engraving. Let the fork be placed inside the leg,
which should be gently forced away from the body
of the fowl ; and the joint, being thus discovered,
the carver can readily cut through it, and the
leg can be served. When the leg is displaced, it
should be of the same shape as that shown in the
annexed woodcut. The legs and wings on either
side having been taken off, the carver should
draw his knife through the flesh in the direction
of the line 4 to o : by this means the knife can be
slipped underneath the merrythought, which,
being lifted up and pressed backward, will imme-
diately come off. The collar- or neck-bones are
the next to consider : these lie on each side of the merrythought,
close under the upper part of the wings ; and, in order to free these
from the fowl, they must also be raised by the knife at their broad
end, and turned from the body towards the breastbone, until the
shorter piece of the bone, as shown in the cut, breaks off. There will
now be left only the breast, with the ribs. The breast can be, without
difficulty, disengaged from the ribs by cutting through the latter,
which will oiler little impediment. The side-bones are now to be
taken oft’ ; and to do this, the lower end of the back should be turned
from the carver, who should press the point of the knife through the
top of the backbone, near the centre, bringing it down towards the
end of the back completely through the bone. If the knife is now
turned in the opposite direction, the joint will be easily separated from
the vertebrae. The backbone being now uppermost, the fork should
be pressed firmly down on it, whilst at the same time the knife should

501

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

lie employed in raising up the lower small end of the fowl towards the
fork, and thus the back will be dislocated about its middle. The
wings, breast, and merrythought are esteemed the prime parts of a
fowl, and are usually served to the ladies of the company, to whom
legs, except as a matter of paramount necessity, should not be given.
Byron gave it as one reason why he did not like dining with ladies,
that they always had the wings of the fowls, which he himself pre-
ferred. We heard a gentleman who, when ho might have had a wing,
declare his partiality for a leg, saying that he had been obliged to eat
legs for so long a time, that he had at last come to like them better
than the other more prized parts. If the fowl is, capon-like, very
large, slices may be carved from its breast in the same manner as from
a turkey’s.

ROAST FOWL.

1001. Generally speaking, it is not necessary so completely to cut
up a fowl as we have described in the preceding paragraphs, unless,

indeed, a large family party is assembled,
and there are a number of “little mouths”
to be tilled, or some other such circumstances
prevail. A roast fowl is carved in the same
manner as a boiled fowl, No. 1000 ; viz., by
cutting along the line from 1 to 2, and then
round the leg between it and the wing. The markings and detached
pieces, as shown in the engravings under the heading of “ Boiled Fowl,”
supersede the necessity of our lengthily again describing the operation.
It may be added, that the liver, being considered a delicacy, should
be divided, and one half served with each wing. In the case of a fowl
being stuffed, it will be proper to give each guest a portion, unless it
be not agreeable to some one of the party,

BOAST FOWL.

ROAST GOOSE.

1002. It would not be fair to say that this dish bodes a great deal
of happiness to an inexperienced carver, especially if there is a large

party to serve, and the slices off the
breast should not suffice to satisfy
the desires and cravings of many
wholesome appetites, produced, may
be, by the various sports in vogue
at Michaelmas and Christmas. The
beginning of the task, however, is
not in any way difficult. Evenly-cut slices, not too thick or too thin,

S3*

BOAST GOOSE.

POULTRY.

505

should be carved from the breast in the direction of the line from 2
to 3 ; after the first slice has been cut, a hole
should be made with the knife in the part called
the apron, passing it round the line, as indicated
by the figures 1, 1, 1 : here the stuffing is
located, and some of this should he served on
each plate, unless it is discovered that it is not
agreeable to the taste of some one guest. If the
carver manages cleverly, he will he able to cut a
very large number of fine slices off the breast,
and the more so if he commences close down by
the wing, and carves upwards towards the ridge of
the breastbone. As many slices as can be taken
from the breast being carved, the wings should
he cut off ; and the same process as described in
carving boiled fowl, is made use of in this in-
stance, only more dexterity and greater force will most probably be
required : the shape of the leg, when disengaged from the body of the
goose, should be like that shown in the accompanying engraving. It
will be necessary, perhaps, in taking off the leg, to turn the goose on
its side, and then, pressing down the small end of the leg, the knife
should he passed under it from the top quite down to the joint ; the
leg being now turned back by the fork, the knife must cut through
the joint, loosening the thigh-bone from its socket. The merrythought,
which in a goose is not so large as might be expected, is disengaged
in the same way as that of a fowl — by passing the knife under it, and
pressing it backwards towards the neck. The neck-bones, of which
we give a cut, are freed by the same process as are those of a fowl ;
and the same may be said of all the other parts of this bird. The breast
of a goose is the part most esteemed ; all parts, however, are good,
and full of juicy flavour.

PIGEON.

1003. A very straightforward plan is adopted in carving a pigeon :
the knife is carried sharply in the direction of the line as shown from
1 to 2, entirely through the bird, cutting it
into two precisely equal and similar parts.

If it is necessary to make three pieces of it,
a small wing should be cut off with the leg on ■
either side, thus serving two guests ; and, by
this means, there will be sufficient meat left
on the breast to send to the third guest.

PIGEOX.

506

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

BOILED BABBIT.

RABBITS.

1004. Tn carving a boiled rabbit, let the knife be drawn on each
side of the backbone, the whole length of the rabbit, as shown by

the dotted line 3 to 4 : thus the rabbit will be '
in three parts. Now let the back be divided
into two equal parts in the direction of the
line from 1 to 2 ; then let the leg be taken off,
as shown by the line 5 to 6, and the shoulder,
as shown by the line 7 to 8. This, in our
opinion, is the best plan to 'carve a rabbit, although there are other
modes which are preferred by some.

A roast rabbit is rather differently trussed from one that is meant
to be boiled ; but the carving is nearly
similar, as will be seen by the cut. The
back should be divided into as many pieces
as it will give, and the legs and shoulders
can then be disengaged in the same manner

BOAST BABBIT.

as those of the boiled animal.

BOAST TURKEY.

1005. A noble dish is a turkey, roast or boiled. A Christmas dinner,
with the middle classes of this empire, would scarcely be a Christmas

dinner without its turkey ; and we can
hardly imagine an object of greater envy
than is presented by a respected portly pater-
familias carving, at the season devoted to
good cheer and genial charit/, his own fat
turkey, and carving it well. The only art
consists, as in the carving of a goose, in
getting from the breast as many tine slices as possible ; and all must
have remarked the very great difference in the large number of people
whom a good carver will find slices for, and the comparatively few
that a bad carver will succeed in serving. As we have stated in both
the carving of a duck and goose, the carver should commence cutting
shoes close to the wing from, 2 to 3, and then proceed upwards towards
the ridge of the breastbone : this is not the usual plan, but, in
practice, will be found the best. The breast is the only part which
is looked on as fine in a turkey, the legs being very seldom cut off
and eaten at table : they are usually removed to the kitchen, where they
are taken off, as here marked, to appear only in a form which seems
to have a special attraction at a bachelor’s supper-table, we mean
devilled : served in this way, they are especially liked and relished.

A boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as when roasted.

CHAPTER XXII.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME.

ioc6. The Common Law of England has a maxim, that goods, in which no
person can claim any property, belong, by his or her prerogative, to the king
or queen. Accordingly, those animals-, those feres natures, which come under
the denomination of game, are, in our laws, styled his or her majesty’s, and
may therefore, as a matter of course, be granted by the sovereign to another -•
in consequence of which another may prescribe to possess the same within a
certain precinct or lordship. From this circumstance arose the right of lords
of manors or others to the game within then- respective liberties ; and to
protect these species of animals, the game laws were originated, and still
remain in force. Thero are innumerable acts of parliament inflicting penalties
on persons who may illegally kill game, and some of them are very severe ;
but they cannot be said to answer their end, nor can it be expected that they
over will, whilst thero are so many persons of great wealth who have not
otherwise the means of procuring game, except by purchase, and who will
have it. These must necessarily encourage poaching, which, to a very large
extent, must continue to render all game laws nugatory as to their intended
effects upon the rustic population.

IQP7- The Object of these Laws, however, is not wholly confined to the
restraining of the illegal sportsman. Even qualified or privileged persons.

508 MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

must not kill gamo at all seasons. Dui'ing the day, the hours allowed for
sporting are from one hour boforo sunrise till one hour after sunset; whilst
the time of killing certain species is also restricted to certain seasons. For
example, the season for bustard-shooting is from December 1 to March 1 ;
for grouse, or red grouse, from August 1 2 to December 10 ; heath-fowl, or
blaclc-game, from August 20 to December 20 ; partridges from September 1
to February 12 ; pheasants from October 1 to February 1 ; widgeons, wild
ducks, wild geese, wild fowls, at any time but in June, July, August, and
September. Hares may bo killed at any time of the year, under certain
restrictions defined by an' act of parliament of the 10th of George III.

1008. The Exercise or Diversion of pursuing Four-footed Beasts of
Game is called hunting, which, to this day, is followed in the field and the
forest, with gun and greyhound. Birds, on the contrary, are not hunted, but
shot in the air, or taken with nets and other devices, which is called fowling ;
or they are pursued and taken by birds of prey, which is called hawking, a
species of sport now fallen almost entirely into desuetude in England, although,
in some parts, showing signs of being revived.

1009. In pursuing Four-footed Beasts, such as deer, bom's, and hares,
properly termed hunting, mankind were, from the earliest ages, engaged. i
It was the rudest and the most obvious manner of acquiring human support .<
before the agricultural arts had in any degree advanced. It is an employment,
however, requiring both art and contrivance, as well as a certain fearlessness
of character, combined with the power of considerable physical endurance.
Without these, success could not be very great ; but, at best, the occupation is
usually accompanied with rude and turbulent habits ; and, when combined
with these, it constitutes what is termed the savage state of man. As culture
advances, and as the soil proportionably becomes devoted to the plough or to
the sustenance of the tamer or more domesticated animals, the range of the
huntsman is proportionably limited ; so that when a country has attained to

a high state of cultivation, hunting becomes little else than an amusement of
the opulent. In the case of fur-bearing animals, however, it is somewhat
different ; for these continue to supply the wants of civilization with one of
its most valuable materials of commerce.

1010. The Themes which form the Minstrelsy' of the Earliest Ages, '
either relate to the spoils of the chase or the dangers of the battle-field. Even
the sacred writings introduce us to Nimrod, the first mighty hunter before the
Lord, and tell us that Ishmael, in the solitudes of Arabia, became a skilful bow-
man ; and that David, when yet young, was not afraid to join in combat with the
lion or the bear. The Greek mythology teems with hunting exploits. Hercules
overthrows the Nemroau lion, the Erymantliean boar, and the hydra of Lerna ;
Diana descends to the earth, and pursues the stag ; whilst JEsculapius, Nestor,
Theseus, Ulysses, and Achilles are all followers of the chase. Aristotle, sago
as he was, advises young men to apply themselves early to it ; and Plato

GAME.

509

fiads in it something divine. Horace exalts it as a preparative exerciso for
the path of glory, and several of the heroes of Homer are its ardent votaries.
The Romans followed the hunting customs of the Greeks, and the ancient
Britons were hunters before Julius Cajsar invaded their shores.

ioii. Although the Ancient Britons followed Hunting, howevex-, they
did not confiue themselves solely to its pux-suit. They bi-ed cattle and tilled
the ground, and, to some extent, indicated the rudimentary state of a pastoi-al
and agricultural life ; but, in every social change, the sports of the field
maintained their place. After the expulsion of the Danes, and during the
brief restoration of the Saxon monarchy, these were still followed : even
Edward the Confessor, who would join in no other secular amusements, took
the greatest delight, says William of Malmesbury, “ to follow a pack of swift
hounds in pursuit of game, and to cheer them with his voice.”

ioic. Nor was Edward the only English sovereign who delighted in the
pleasures of the chase. William the Norman, and his two sons who succeeded
him, were passionately fond of the sport, and greatly circumscribed the liberties
of their subjects in reference to the killing of game. The privilege of hunting in
the royal forests was confined to the king and his favourites . and in order that
these umbrageous retreats might be made more extensive, whole villages were
depopulated, places of worship levelled with the ground, and evex-y means
adopted that might give a sufficient amplitude of space, in accordance with
the royal pleasure, for the beasts of the chase. King John was likewise
especially attached to the sports of the field ; whilst Edward III. was so
enamoured of the exex-cise, that even during his absence at the wai's in France,
he took with him sixty couples of stag-hounds and as many hare-hounds, and
every day amused himself either with hunting or hawking. Great in wisdom
as the Scotch Solomon, James I., conceited himself to be, he was much
addicted to the amusements of hunting, hawking-, and shooting. Yea, it is
even asserted that his precious time was divided between hunting, the bottle,
and his standisli : to the first he gave his fair weather, to the second his dull,
and to the third his cloudy. Fi-om his days down to the present, the sports
of the field have continued to hold their high reputation, not only for the
pi-omotion of health, but for helping to form that manliness of character
which enters so largely into the composition of the sons of the British soil.
That it lai-gely helps to do this thei-e can be no doubt. The late duke of
Grafton, when hunting, was, on one occasion, thrown into a ditch. A young-
curate, engaged in the same chase, cried out, “ Lie still, my lord !” leapt over
him, and pursued his sport. Such an appai-ent want of feeling might be
expected to have been resented by the duke ; but not so. On his being helped
up by his attendant, he said, “ That man shall have the first good living that
falls to my disposal : had he stopped to have given me his sympathy, I never
would have given him anything.” Such was the manly sentiment of the duke,
who delighted in the exemplification of a spirit similarly ardent as his own in
the sport, and above the baseness of an assumed sorx-ow.

510

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERT.

1013. That Hunting has in many Instances been carried to an Excess
is well known, and tlio match given by the Prince Esterliazy, regent of Hungary,
on the signing of the treaty of peace with Franco, is not the least extraordinary
upon record. On that occasion, there were killed 160 deer, 100 wild boars,
S00 hares, and 80 foxes : this was the achievement of one day. Enormous,
however, as this slaughter may appear, it is greatly inferior to that made by
the contemporary king of Naples on a hunting expedition. That sovereign had
a larger extent of ground at his command, and a longer period for the exercise
of his talents ; consequently, his sport, if it can so be called, was proportionably
greater. It was pursued during his journey to Vienna, in Austria, Bohemia,
and Moravia; when ho killed 5 bears, 1,820 boars, 1,950 deer, 1,145 does,
1,625 roebucks, 11,121 rabbits, 13 wolves, 17 badgers, 16,354 hares, and
354 foxes. In birds, during the same expedition, he killed 15,350 pheasants
and 12,335 partridges. Such an amount of destruction can hardly be called
sport ; it resembles more the indiscriminate slaughter of a battle- field,
where the scientific engines of civilized warfare are brought to bear upon
defenceless savages.

1014. Deer and Hares may be esteemed as the only four-footed animals
now hunted in Britain for the table ; and oven these are not followed with the
same ardour as they were wont to be. Still, there is no country in the world
where the sport of hunting on horseback is carried to such an extent as in
Great Britain, and where the pleasures of the chase are so well understood,
and conducted on such purely scientific principles. The Fox, of all “ the
beasts of the field,” is now considered to afford the best sport. For this, it
is infinitely superior to the stag ; for the real sportsman can only enjoy that
chase when the deer is sought for and found like other game which are pur-
sued with hounds. In the case of finding an outlying fallow-deer, which is
unharboured, in this manner, great sport is frequently obtained ; but this Is
now rarely to be met with in Britain. In reference to hare-hunting, it is
much followed in many parts of this an'd the sister island ; but, by the true
foxhunter, it is considered as a sport only fit to be pursued by women and
old men. Although it is less dangerous and exciting than the fox-chase, how-
ever, it has great charms for those who do not care for the hard riding
which the other requires. ,

1015. The Art of taking or killing Birds is called “fowling,” and is either
practised as an amusement by persons of rank or property, or for a livelihood
by persons who use nets and other apparatus. When practised as an amuse-
ment, it principally consists of killing them with a light firearm called a
“fowling-piece,” and the sport is secured to those who pursue it by the game
laws. The other means by which birds are taken, consist in imitating their
voices, or leading them, by other artifices, into situations where they become
entrapped by nets, birdlime, or otherwise. For taking large numbers of birds,
the pipe or call is the most common means employed ; and this is done
during the months o"f September and October. We will here briefly give a

GAME.

511

description of the modus operandi pursued in this sport. A thin wood is
usually the spot chosen, and, under a tree at a little distance from tho others,
a cabin is erected, and thero are only such branches left on the tree as are
necessary for the placing of the birdlime, and which are covered with it.
Around tho cabin are placed avenues with twistod perches, also covered with
birdlime. Having thus prepared all that is necessary, the birdcatcher
places himself in the cabin, and, at sunrise and sunset, imitates the cry of a
small bird calling the others to its assistance. Supposing that the cry of the
owl is imitated, immediately different kinds of birds will flock together at the
cry of. their common enemy, when, at every instant, they will be seen falling
to tho ground, their wings being of no use to them, from their having come in
contact with the birdlime. The cries of those which are thus situated now
attract others, and thus are large numbers taken in a short space of time. If
owls were themselves desired to be taken, it is only during the night that this
can be done, by counterfeiting the squeak of the mouse. Larks, other birds,
and water-fowl, are sometimes taken by nets ; but to describe fully the manner
in which this is done, would here occupy too much space.

1016. Feathered Game have from time immemorial given gratification
to the palate of man. With the exception of birds of prey, and some other
species, Moses permitted his people to eat them ; and the Egyptians made
offerings to their priests of their most delicate birds. The ancient Greeks
commenced their repasts with little roasted birds ; and feathered game,
amongst the Romans, was served as the second course. Indeed, several of the
ancient gourmands of the "imperial city” were so fond of game, that they
brought themselves to ruin by eating flamingoes and pheasants. ".Some
modern nations, the French among others,” says Monsieur Soyer, "formerly
ate the heron, crane, crow, stork, swan, cormorant, and bittern. The first
three especially were highly esteemed ; and Laillovant, cook of Charles VII.,
teaches us how to prepare these meagre, tough birds. Belon says, that in
spite of its revolting taste when unaccustomed to it, the bittern is, however,
among the delicious treats of the French. This writer also asserts, that a
falcon or a vulture, either roasted or boiled, is excellent eating ; and that if
one of these birds happened to kill itself in flying after game, the falconer
instantly cooked it. Lebaut calls the heron a royal viand.”

1017. The Heron was hunted by the Hawk, and the sport of hawking
is usually placed at the head of those amusements that can only be practised
in the country. This precedency it probably obtained from its being a pastime
so generally followed by the nobility, not in Great Britain only, but likewise
on the continent. In former times, persons of high rank rarely appeared in
public without their dogs and their hawks : the latter they carried with them
when they journeyed from one country to another, and sometimes even took
them to battle with them, and would not part with them when taken pi'isoners,
even to obtain their own liberty. Such birds were estoemed as the ensigns of
nobility, and no action was reckoned more dishonourable in a man of rank than

5 12

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

that of giving up his hawk. We have already alluded to the hunting propen-
sities of our own Edward III., and we may also allude to his being equally ad-
dicted to hawking. According to Froissart, when this sovereign invaded France,
he took with him thirty falconers on horseback, who had charge of his hawks,
and every day, as his royal fancy inclined him, he either hunted, or went to
the river for the purpose of hawking. In the great and powerful, the pursuit
of game as a sport is allowable, but in those who have to earn their bread by
the sweat of their brow, it is to be condemned. In Burton’s “Anatomy of
Melancholy” we find a humorous story, told by Poggius, the Florentine,
who reprobates this folly in such persons. It is this. A physician of Milan,
that cured madmen, had a pit of water in his house, in which he kept his
patients, some up to the knees, some to the girdle, some to the chin, pro
modo insanice, as they were more or less affected. One of them by chance,
that was well recovered, stood in the door, and seeing a gallant pass by with
a hawk on his fist, well mounted, with his spaniels after him, would needs
know to what .use all this preparation served. He made answer, To kill certain 1
fowl. The patient demanded again, what his fowl might be worth which he
killed in a year ? He replied, Five or ten crowns ; and when he urged him
further, what his dogs, horse, and hawks stood him in, he told him four
hundred crowns. With that the patient bade him begone, as he loved his life
and welfare ; “for if our master come and find thee here, he will put thee in
the pit^amongst the madmen, up to the chin.” Thus reproving the madness
of such men as will spend themselves in those vain sports, to the neglect 1
of their business and necessary affairs.

ioi8. As the inevitable Besult of Social Progress is, at least to limit,
if not entirely to suppress, such sports as we have here been treating of,
much of the romance of country life has passed away. This is more especially j
the case with falconry, which had its origin about the middle of the fourth
century, although, lately, some attempts have been rather successfully .
made to institute a revival of the “ gentle art” of hawking. Julius 1
Firmicus, who lived about that time, is, so far as we can find, the 4
first Latin author who speaks of falconers, and the art of teaching one |
species of birds to fly after and catch others. The occupation of these I
functionaries has now, however, all but ceased. New and nobler efforts f
characterize the aims of mankind in the development of their civilization, and 9
the sports of the field have, to a large extent, been superseded by other '
exercises, it may be less healthful and invigorating, but certainly more elegant, .
intellectual, and humanizing.

recipes

CHAPTER XXIII.

BOAST BLACK-GOCK.

BOAST BLACK-COCK.

1019. Ingredients. — Black-cock, butter, toast.

Mode. — Let these birds hang for a few days, or they will be tough
and tasteless, if not well kept. Pluck and draw them, and wipe the
insides and outsides with a damp cloth, as washing spoils the flavour.
Cut off the heads, and truss them, the
same as a roast fowl, cutting off the toes,
and scalding and peeling the feet. Trus-
sing them with the head on, as shown
in the engraving, is still practised by
many cooks, but the former method is
now considered the best. Put them down to a brisk fire, well baste
them with butter, and serve with a piece of toast under, and a good
gravy and bread sauce. After trussing, some cooks cover the breast
with vine-leaves and slices of bacon, and then roast them. They
should be served in the same manner and with the same accompani-
ments as with the plainly-roasted birds.

Time. — 45 to 50 minutes.

Average cost, from 5s. to 6s. the brace; but seldom bought.

Sufficient, — 2 or 3 for a dish.

Seasonable from the middle of August to the end of December.

The Black-cock, Heath-cock, Moob-kowl, on Heath-poult.—1 This bird sometimes
■weighs as much as four pounds, and the
hen about two. It is at present confined
to the more northern parts of Britain,
culture and extending population having
united in driving it into more desolate
regions, except, perhaps, in a few of the
more wild and less-frequented portions
of England; It may still be found in the
New Forest, in Hampshire, Dartmoor,
and Sedgmoor, in Devonshire, and among
the hills of Somersetshire, contiguous to
the latter. It may also be found in Staf-
fordshire, in North Wales, and again in
the north of England; but nowhere so
plentiful as in some parts of the High-
lands of Scotland. The males are hardly
distinguishable from the females until
they are about half-grown, when the black

black-cock.

2 L

514

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERV.

feathers begin to appear, first about the siitcs and breast. Their" food consists of
the tops of birch and heath, except when the mountain berries are ripe, at which period
they eagerly and even voraciously pick the bilberries and cranberries from the bushes.
Large numbers of these birds are found in Norway, almost rivalling the turkey in point
of size. Some of them have begun to be imported into London, where they are vended
in the shops ; but tho flavour of their flesh is not equal to that of the Scotch bird.

HASHED WILD DUCK.

loao. Ingredients.— The remains of cold roast wild duck, 1 pint of
good brown gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 glass of claret,
salt, cayenne, and mixed spices to taste ; 1 tablespoonful of lemon or
Seville orange-juice.

Mode. — Cut the remains of the duck into neat joints, put them
into a stewpan, with all the above ingredients ; let them get gradually
hot by the side of the fire, and occasionally stir the contents ; when
on the point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of
toasted bread.

Time. — About \ hour.

Seasonable from November to February.

RAGOUT OP WILD DUCK.

1021. Ingredients. — 2 wild ducks, 4 shalots, 1 pint of stock No.
105, 1 glass of port wine, 1 oz. of butter, a little flour, the juice of
| lemon, cayenne and salt to taste.

Mode. — Ducks that have been dressed and left from the preceding
day will answer for this dish. Cut them into joints, reserve the legs,
wings, and breasts until wanted ; put the trimmings into a stewpan
with the shalots and stock, and let them simmer for about \ hour,
and strain the gravy. Put the butter into a stewpan ; when melted,
dredge in a little flour, and pour in the gravy made from the bones;
give it one boil, and strain it again ; add the wine, lemon-juice, and
cayenne ; lay in the pieces of duck, and let the whole gradually warm
through, but do not allow it to boil, or the duck will be hard. The
gravy should not be too thick, and should be very highly seasoned.
The squeeze of a Seville orange is a great improvement to this
dish.

Time. — About | hour to make the gravy ; \ hour for the duck
gradually to warm through.

Seasonable from November to February.

ROAST WILD DUCK.

1022. Ingredients. — Wild duck, flour, butter.

Mode. — Carefully pluck and draw them ; cut off the heads close to
the necks, leaving sufficient skin to turn over, and do not cut oft’ the

MODERN MODE OE SERVING DISIIES.

Partridge. E 1. Roast Haro.

G 1. Wild Duck.

C I. Boiled Rabbit. D 1.

E 1. Pheasant.

•-

GAME.

515

feet ; some twist each leg at the knuckle, and rest the claws on each
side of the breast ; others truss them as shown in our illustration,
ltoast the birds before a quick fire, and, when they are first put
down, let them remain for 5 minutes without basting (this will keep
the gravy in) ; afterwards baste plen-
tifully with butter, and a few minutes
before serving dredge them lightly with
flour ; baste well, and send them to table
nicely frothed, and full of gravy. If roast wild duck.

overdone, the birds will lose their flavour.

Serve with a good gravy in the dish, or orange gravy, No. -488 ; and
send to table with them a cut lemon. To take oft' the fishy taste which
wild fowl sometimes have, baste them for a few minutes with hot water
to which have been added an onion and a little salt ; then take away
the pan, and baste with butter.— See coloured plate, Grl.

Time. — When liked underdressed, 20 to 25 minutes ; well done, 25
to 35 minutes.

Average cost, 4s. to 5s. the couple.

Sufficient, — 2 for a dish.

Seasonable from November to February.

The Wild Duck. — The male of the wild duck is called a mallard ; and the young ones
are called flappers. The time to try to
find a brood of these is about the month
of July, among the rushes of the deepest
and most retired parts of some brook or
stream, where, if the old bird is sprung,
it may be taken as a certainty that its
brood is not far off. When once found,
flappers are easily killed, as they attain
their full growth before their wings are
fledged. Consequently, the sport is
more like hunting water-rats than shoot-
ing birds. When the flappers take wing,
they assume the name of wild ducks,
ancf about the month of August repair
to the corn-fields, where they remain
until they are disturbed by the harvest-
peole. They then frequent the rivers

pretty early in the evening, and give the wild duck.

excellent sport to those who have pa-

tience to wait for them In order to know a wild duck, it is necessary only to look at
the claws, which should be black. J

HASHED GAME (Cold Meat Cookery).

1023. Ingbedients. — The remains of cold game, l onion stuck with
3 cloves, a few whole peppers, a strip of lemon-peel, salt to taste,
thickening of butter and flour, 1 glass of port wine, 1 tablespoonful
of lemon-juice, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, 1 pint of water or weak
stock. ,

Mode.— Cut the reinaids of cold game into joints, reserve the best

2 if 2

516

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

pieces, and the inferior ones and trimmings put into a stewpan with
the onion, pepper, lemon-peel, salt, and water or weak stock ; stew
these for about an hour, and strain the gravy ; thicken it with butter
and flour ; add the wine, lemon-juice, and ketchup ; lay in the pieces
of game, and let them gradually warm through by the side of the
fire ; do not allow it to boil, or the game will be hard. When on the
point of simmering, serve, and garnish the dish with sippets of toasted
bread.

Time. — Altogether 1^ hour.

Seasonable from August to March.

Note. — Any kind of game may be hashed by the above recipe, and the
flavour may be varied by adding flavoured vinegars, curry powder, &c. ; but we
cannot recommend those latter ingredients, as a dish of game should really
have a gamy taste ; and if too many sauces, essences, &e. , are added to
the gravy, they quite overpower and destroy the flavour the dish should
possess.

GROUSE PIE.

1024. Ingredients. — Grouse; cayenne, salt, and pepper to taste ;
1 lb. of rump-steak, 4 pint of well-seasoned broth, puff paste.

Mode. — Line the bottom of a pie-dish with the rump-steak cut into
neat pieces, and, should the grouse be large, cut them into joints ;
but, if small, they may be laid in the pie whole; season highly
with salt, cayenne, and black pepper ; pour in the broth, and cover
with a puff paste ; brush the crust over with the yolk of an egg, and
bake from f to 1 hour. If the grouse is cut into joints, the backbones
and trimmings will make the gravy, by stewing them with an onion, a
little sherry, a bunch of herbs, and a blade of mace : this should be
poured in after the pie is baked.

Time.—% to 1 hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the grouse, which are seldom bought,
Is. 9eh

Seasonable from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.

ROAST GROUSE.

1025. Ingredients. — Grouse, butter, a thick slice of toasted bread.

Mode. — Let the birds hang as long as possible ; pluck and draw

them ; wipe, but do not wash them, in-
side and out, and truss them without
the head, the same as for a roast fowl.
Many persons still continue to truss
them with the head under the wing, but

It OAST GROUSE.

GAME.

517

the former is now considered the most approved method. Put them
down to a sharp clear fire ; keep them well basted the whole of the
time they are cooking, and serve them on a buttered toast, soaked in
the dripping-pan, with a little melted butter poured over them, or with
bread-sauce and gravy. — See coloured plate, L 1.

Time. — .V hour ; if liked very thoroughly done, 35 minutes.

Average cost, 2s. to 2s. 6 d. the brace ; but seldom bought.

Sufficient, — 2 for a dish.

Seasonable from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.

Geouse.— These birds aro divided into wood grouse, black grouse, red grouse, and
white grouse. The wood grouse is further distinguished as the cock of the wood, or
capercailzie, and is as large as the turkey,

being about two feet nine inches ,in "■n..

length, and weighing from twelve to fif-
teen pounds. The female is considerably
less than the male, and, in the colour of
her feathers, differs widely from the
other. This beautiful species is found
principally in lofty, mountainous regions,
and is very rare in Great Britain ; but
in the pine forests of Russia, Sweden,
and other northern countries, it is very
common. In these it has its habitat,
feeding on the cones of the trees, and the
fruits of various kinds of plants, espe-
cially the berry of the juniper. Black
grouse is also distinguished as black-game,
or the black-cock. It is not larger than
the common hen, and weighs only about
four pounds. The female is about one-third
less than the male, and also differs considerably from him in point of colour. Like the
former, they are found chiefly in high situations, and are common in Russia, Siberia, and
other northern countries. They are also found in the northern parts of Great Britain,
feeding in winter on the various berries and fruits belonging to mountainous countries, and,
in summer, frequently descending to the lower lands, to feed upon corn. The red grouse,
gorcock, or moor-cock, weighs about nineteen ounces, and the female somewhat less.
In the wild heathy tracts of the northern counties of England it is plentiful, also in
IV ales and the Highlands of Scotland. Mr. Pennant considered it peculiar to Britain,
those found in the mountainous parts of Spain, France, and Italy, being only varieties of
the same bird. White grouse, white game, or ptarmigan, is nearly the same size as the
red grouse, and is found in lofty situations, where it supports itself in the severest
weather. It is to be met with in most of the northern countries of Europe, and appears
even in Greenland. In the Hebrides, Orkneys, and the Highlands of Scotland, it is also
found ; and sometimes, though rarely, among the fells of Northumberland and Cumber-
land. In winter they fly in flocks, and are so little familiar with the sight of man, that
they are easily shot, and even snared. They feed on-the wild produce of the hills, which
sometimes imparts to their flesh a bitter but not unpalatable taste. According to
Buffon, it is dark-coloured, and somewhat flavoured like the hare.

BED GROUSE.

GEOUSE SALAD.

{Soger’s Recipe.)

1 026. Ingredients. — 8 eggs, butter, fresb salad, 1 or 2 grouse ; for
the sauce, 1 teaspoonful of minced skalot, 1 teaspoonful of pounded
sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, £ oz. of
salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of Chili vinegar, 1 gill
of cream.

518

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — Boil the eggs hard, shell them, throw them into cold water
cut a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper placing of them
in the dish, cut each one into four lengthwise, and make a very thin flat
borderof butter, about one inch from the edge of the dish the salad
is to be served on ; fix the pieces of egg upright close to each other,
the yolk outside, or the yolk and white alternately ; lay in the centre
a fresh salad of whatever is in season, and,- having previously roasted
the grouse rather underdone, cut it into eight or ten pieces, and prepare
the sauce as follows : — rut the shalots into a basin, with the sugar,
the yolk of an egg, the parsley, and salt, and mix in by degrees the
oil and vinegar; when these ingredients are well mixed, put the
sauce on ice or in a cool place. When ready to serve, whip the cream
rather thick, which lightly mix with it; then lay the inferior parts
of the grouse on the salad, sauce over so as to cover each piece, then
lay over the salad and the remainder of the grouse, pour the rest of
the sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be ornamented with a little
dot of radishes or beetroot on the point. Anchovy and gherkin, cut
into small diamonds, may be placed between, or cut gherkins in
slices, and a border of them laid round. Tarragon or chervil-leaves
are also a pretty addition. The remains of cold black -game,
pheasant, or partridge may be used in the above manner, and will
make a very delicate dish.

Average cost, 2s. 6 d.

Seasonable from the 12th of August to the beginning of December.

The CArEBCAiiZiE. — This bird was to bo met with formerly both in Ireland and

Scotland, but is now extinct. The male
lives separate from the females, except
in the breeding season. Its manners
and habits are very like those of
black grouse, except that it seems to be
wholly contined to forests of pine, on the
tender shoots of which it feeds. It is
by no means uncommon in the woods of
liorway, whence we received it. It is
also found abundant in Russia, Siberia,
Italy, and in some portions of the Alps.
It was, in 1700, last seen in Scotland, in
the woods of Strathglass. Recent at-
tempts have been made to re-introduce
it into that country, but without success ;
principally owing, as we should imagine,
to the want of sufficient food suitable for
its sustenance.

THE CAEEEOALZIE.

Grouse. — Under this general term are included several species of game birds, called
black, red, woodland, and white grouse. The black is larger than the red (see In o. It u>),
and is not so common, and therefore held in higher estimation, the red, however,
is a bird of exquisite flavour, and is a native of tno mountainous districts of Poollsnd
and the north of England. It feeds on the tops of the heath and the berries that
grow amongst them: its colour is a rich chestnut, striped with black. T he woodland,
or cock of the wood, is the largest umong the bird tribes which pass under the denomi-
nation of game. It is smaller than the turkey, and was originally common m our
mountains ; but it is now to be found only in the mountains of (Scotland, though it stui

GAME.

519

abounds in tbe north of Europe, Germany, and in the Alps. It is esteemed as delicious
eatine, and its plumage is extremely beautiful. The white grouse, or ptarmigan, is not a
plentiful bird in Britain ; but it is still found in Mie islands, and weighs about halt a pound.
The London market is supplied by Norway and Scotland; those from the former country
being esteemed the best. When young, it is held in high estimation, being considered as
little different from common grouse.

BOAST HARE.

1027. Ingredients. — Hare, forcemeat No. 417, a little milk, butter.

Choosing and Trussing— Choose a young bare ; which may be known
by its smooth and sharp claws, and by the cleft in the lip not being
much spread. To be eaten in perfection, it must hang for some time ;
and, if properly taken care of, it may be kept for several days. It is
better to hang without being paunched ; but should it be previ-
ously emptied, wipe the inside every day, and sprinkle over it a little
pepper and ginger, to prevent the musty taste which long keeping
in the damp occasions, and which also affects the stuffing. After
it is skinned, wash it well, and soak for an hour in warm water
to draw out the blood ; if old, let it lie
in vinegar for a short time, but wash it
well afterwards iu several waters. Make
a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, wipe the
hare dry, fill the belly with it, and sew’ it
up. Bring the hind and fore legs close to
the body towards the head, run a skewer through each, fix the head
between the shoulders by means of another skewer, and be careful
to leave the ears on. Pat a string round the body from skewer to
skewer, and tie it above the back.

Mode. — The hare should be kept at a distance from the fire when it
is first laid down, or the outside will become dry and hard before the
inside is done. Baste it well with milk for a short time, and afterwards
with butter ; and particular attention must be paid to the basting, so as
to preserve the meat on the back juicy and nutritive. When it is almost
roasted enough, flour the hare, and baste well with butter. When
nicely frothed, dish it, remove the skewers, and send it to table with
a little gravy in the dish, and a tureen of the same. Ited-currant
jelly must also not be forgotten, as this is an indispensable accompa-
niment to roast hare. For economy, good beef dripping may be substi-
tuted for the milk and butter to baste with ; but the basting, as we
have before stated, must be continued without intermission. If the
liver is good, it may be parboiled, minced, and mixed wfith the stuffing ;
but it should not bo used unless quite fresh.— See coloured plate, E 1.

Time— A middling-sized hare, 1^ hour ; a large hare, l£ to 2 hours.

Average cost, from 4s. to 6s.

BOAST 3IABE.

520

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from September to the end of February.

The Hake. — This little animal is found

THE HAItE.

generally distributed over Europe, and,
indeed, in most parts of the northern
world. Its extreme timidity is the en-
dowment which Providence has bestowed
upon it as a means of defence ; it is
therefore attentive to every sound, and
is supplied with ears both long and
tubular, with which it can hear with
great acuteness. Its eyes, also, are so
constructed, and placed so prominent in
its head, that it can see both before and
behind it. It lives entirely upon vege-
tables, but its flesh is considered dry,
notwithstanding that it is deemed, in
many respects, superior to that of the
rabbit, being more savoury, and of a
much higher flavour. Its general time
of feeding is the evening ; but during the
day, if not disturbed, it adheres closely
to its form.

POTTED HARE (a Luncheon or Breakfast Dish),
toad. Ingredients. — 1 hare, a few slices of bacon, a large bunch
of savoury herbs, 4 cloves, | teaspoonful of whole allspice, 2 carrots,
2 onions, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pint of water, 2 glasses of sherry.

Mode. — Skin, empty, and wash the hare ; cut it down the middle,
and put it into a stewpan, with a few slices of bacon under and over
it ; add the remaining ingredients, and stew very gently until the
hare is tender, and the flesh will separate easily from the bones.
When done enough, take it up, remove the bones, and pound
the meat, with the bacon, in a mortar, until reduced to a perfectly
smooth paste. Should it not be sufficiently seasoned, add a little
cayenne, salt, and pounded mace, but be careful that these are well
mixed with the other ingredients. Press the meat into potting-pots,
pour over clarified butter, and keep in a dry place. The liquor that
the hare was stewed in, should be saved for hashes, soups, &c. &c.
Time. — About 21 hours to stew the hare.

Seasonable from September to the end of February.

BROILED HARE (a Supper or Luncheon Dish).

1029. Ingredients. — The leg and shoulders of a roast hare, cayenne
and salt to taste, a little butter.

Mode. — Cut the legs and shoulders from a roast hare, season them
highly with salt and cayenne, and broil them over a very clear fire for
5 minutes. Dish them on a hot dish, rub over them a little cold
butter, and send to table very quickly.

Time. — 5 minutes.

Seasonable from September to the end of February.

GAME.

521

HASHED HARE.

1030. Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast hare, 1 blade of
pounded mace, 2 or 3 allspice, pepper and salt to taste, 1 onion, a
bunch of savoury herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of port wine, thickening of
butter and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.

Mode. — Cut the cold hare into neat slices, and put the head, bones,
and trimmings into a stewpan, with f pint of water ; add the mace,
allspice, seasoning, onion, and herbs, and stew for nearly an hour, and
strain the gravy ; thicken it with butter and flour, add the wine and
ketchup, and lay in the pieces of hare, with any stuffing that may
be left. Let the whole gradually heat by the side of the fire, and,"
when it has simmered for about 5 minutes, serve, and garnish the
dish with sippets of toasted bread. Send red-currant jelly to table
with it.

Time. — Rather more than 1 hour.

Average cost, exclusive of the cold hare, Gd.

Seasonable from September to the end of February.

JUGGED HARE.

( Very Good.)

1031. Ingredients. — 1 hare, 14 lb. of gravy beef, i lb. of butter, 1
onion, 1 lemon, 6 cloves ; pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste ; 4 pint of
port wine.

Mode. — Skin, paunch, and wash the hare, cut it into pieces, dredge
them with flour, and fry in boiling butter. Have ready 14 pint of
gravy, made from the above proportion of beef, and thickened with a
little flour. Put this into a jar ; add the pieces of fried hare, an
onion stuck with six cloves, a lemon peeled and cut in half, and a
good seasoning of pepper, cayenne, and salt; cover the jar down
tightly, put it up to the neck into a stewpan of boiling water, and let it
stew until the hare is quite tender, taking care to keep the water
boiling. When nearly done, pour in the wine, and add a few force-
meat' balls, made by recipe No. 417 : these must be fried or baked in
the oven for a few minutes before they are put to the gravy. Serve-
with red-currant jelly.

lime. 34 to 4 hours. If the hare is very old, allow 4A hours.

Average cost, 7s.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from September to the end of February

522

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

II.

(.1. Quicker and more Economical Way.)

1032. Ingredients. — 1 hare, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 onions, each
stuck with 3 cloves, 6 whole allspice, -3 teaspoonful of black pepper,
a strip of lemon-peel, thickening of butter and Hour, 2 tablespoonfuls
of mushroom ketchup, | pint of port wine .

Mode. — Wash the hare nicely, cut it up into joints (not too large),
and flour and brown them as in the preceding recipe ; then put them
into a stewpan with the herbs, onions, cloves, allspice, pepper, and
lemon-peel ; cover with hot water, and when it boils, carefully remove
all tlje scum, and let it simmer gently till tender, which will be in
about If hour, or longer, should the hare be very old. Take out the
pieces of hare, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, add the
ketchup and port wine, let it boil for about 10 minutes, strain it
through a sieve over the hare, and serve. A few fried forcemeat
balls should be added at the moment of serving, or instead of frying
them, they may be stewed in the gravy, about 10 minutes before the
hare is wanted for table. Do not omit to serve red-currant jelly
with it.

Time. — Altogether 2 hours. Average cost, 5s. 6d.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from September to the end of February.

Kote. — Should there be any left, rewarm it the next day by putting the
hare, &c. into a covered jar, and placing this jar in a saucepan of boiling
water : this method prevents a great deal of waste.

ROAST LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE.

1033. Ingredients. — 3 or 4 birds, butter, fried bread crumbs.

Mode. —Pluck and draw the birds, wipe them inside and out with
damp cloths, and truss them in the following manner Bring the

head round under the wing, and the
thighs close to the sides ; pass a skewer
through them and the body, and keep
the legs straight. Boast them before
a clear fire, keep them well basted, and
serve on fried bread crumbs, with a tureen of brown gravy. When
liked, bread-sauce may also be sent to table with them.

'Time. — 12 to 20 minutes. Average cost. — Seldom bought.

Sufficient. — Allow 4 for a dish.

Seasonable from August 12th to the middle of September.

LAXDliAILS.

GAME.

523

The Landrail, or Corn-Crake.— This bird is migratory in its habits, yet from
its formation, it seems ill adapted for long afirial passages, its wings being short,
and placed so forward out of the centre of
gravity, that it flies in an extremely heavy
and embarrassed manner, and with its legs
hanging down. When it alights, it can
hardly be sprung a second time, as it runs
very fast, and seems to depend for its safety
more on the swiftness of its feet than the
celerity of its wings. It makes its appear-
ance in England about the same time as
the quail, that is, in the months of April
and May, and frequents the same places\

Its singular cry is first heard when the
grass becomes long enough to shelter it,
and it continues to be heard until the grass
is cut. The bird, however, is seldom seen,
for it constantly skulks among the thickest
portions of the herbage, and runs so nimbly through it, doubling and winding in every
direction, that it is difficult to get near it. It leaves this island before the winter, and
repairs to other countries in search of its food, which principally consists of slugs,
'large numbers of which it destroys. It is very common in Ireland, and, whilst
migrating to this country, is seen in great numbers in the island of Anglesea. On its
first arrival in England, it is so lean as scarcely to weigh above five or six ounces ;
before its departure, however, it has been known to exceed eight ounces, and is then
most delicious eating.

THE LANDRAIL.

TO DRESS A LEVERET.

1034. Ingredients. — 2 leverets, butter, flour.

Mode. — Leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare,
but they do not require stuffing1. Roast them before a clear fire, and
keep them well basted all the time they are cooking. A few minutes
before serving, dredge them lightly with flour, and froth them nicely.
Serve with plain gravy in the dish, and send to table red-currant
jelly with them.

Time. — i to I hour. Average cost, in full season, 4s. each.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from May to August, but cheapest in July and August.

BROILED PARTRIDGE (a Luncheon, Breakfast, or Supper

Dish).

1035. Ingredients. — 3 partridges, salt and cayenne to taste, a small
piece of butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce.

Mode. — Pluck, draw, and cut the partridges in half, and wipe the
inside1 thoroughly with a damp cloth. Season them with salt and
cayenne, broil them over a very clear fire, and dish them on a hot
dish ; rub a small piece of butter over each half, and send them to
table with brown gravy or mushroom sauce.

Titne.— About 3 hour. Average cost, Is. 6 d. to 2s. a brace.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.

524

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

PARTRIDGE PIE.

1036. Ingredients.— 3 partridges, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tea-
opoonful of minced parsley (when obtainable, a few mushrooms), f lb.
of veal cutlet, a slice of ham, -J pint of stock, puff paste.

Mode. — Line a pie-dish with a veal cutlet ; over that place a slice
of ham and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Pluck, draw, and wipe
the partridges ; cut off the legs at the first joint, and season them
inside with pepper, salt, minced parsley, and a small piece of butter ;
place them in the dish, and pour over the stock ; line the edges of the
dish with puff paste, cover with the same, brush it over with the yolk
of an egg, and bake for § to 1 hour.

Time— f to 1 hour. Average cost , Is. Q>d. to 2s. a brace.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.

Note. — Should the partridges be very large, split them in half ; they will
then he in the dish more compactly. When at hand, a few mushrooms should
always be added. »

POTTED PARTRIDGE.

1037. Ingredients. — Partridges ; seasoning to taste of mace, allspice
white pepper, and salt ; butter, coarse paste.

Mode. — Pluck and draw the birds, and wipe them inside with
a damp cloth. Pound well some mace, allspice, white pepper, and
salt ; mix together, and rub every part of the partridges with this.
Pack the birds as closely as possible in a baking-pan, with plenty of
butter over them, and cover with a coarse flour and water crust. Tie
a paper over this, and bake for rather more than hour ; let the
birds get cold, then cut them into pieces for keeping, pack them closely
into a large potting-pot, and cover with clarified butter. This should
be kept in a cool dry place. The butter used for potted things will
answer for basting, or for paste for meat pies.— See coloured plate, D 1.

Time. — li hour.

Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.

SALMI DE PERDRIX, or HASHED PARTRIDGES.

1038. Ingredients. — 3 young partridges, 3 shalots, a slice of lean
ham , 1 carrot, 3 or 4 mushrooms, a bunch of savoury herbs, 2 cloves,
6 whole peppers, f pint of stock, 1 glass of sherry or Madeira, a small
lump of sugar.

Mode. — After the partridges are plucked and drawn, roast them

GAME.

525

rather underdone, and cover them with paper, as they should not he
browned ; cut them into joints, take off the skin from the wings, legs,
and breasts ; put these into a stewpan, cover them up, and set by
until the gravy is ready. Cut a slice of ham into small pieces, and
put them, with the carrots sliced, the shalots, mushrooms, herbs,
cloves, and pepper, into a stewpan ; fry them lightly in a little
butter, pour in the stock, add the bones and trimming from the
partridges, and simmer for \ hour. Strain the gravy, let it cool, and
skim off every particle of fat ; put it to the legs, wings, and breasts,
add a glass of sherry or Madeira and a small lump of sugar, let all
gradually warm through by the side of the fire, and when on the
point of boiling, serve, and garnish the dish with croutons. The
remains of roast partridge answer very well dressed in this way,
although not so good as when the birds are in the first instance only
half-roasted. This recipe is equally suitable for pheasants, moor-
game, &c.; but care must be taken always to skin the joints.

Time. — Altogether 1 hour.

Sufficient. — 2 or 3 partridges for an entree.

Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of February.

ROAST PARTRIDGE.

1039. Inghedients.— Partridge ; butter.

Choosing and Trussing. — Choose young birds, with dark-coloured
bills and yellowish legs, and let them hang a few days, or there will
be no flavour to the flesh, nor will it be tender. The time they should
be kept, entirely depends on the taste of those for whom they are
intended, as what some persons would consider delicious, would be to
others disgusting and offensive. They may be trussed with or
without the head, the latter mode being
now considered the most fashionable.

Pluck, draw, and wipe the partridge care-
fully inside and out ; cut off the head,
leaving sufficient skin on the neck to
skewer back ; bring the legs close to the breast, between it and the
side-bones, and pass a skewer through the pinions and the thick part
of the thighs. When the head is left on, it should be brought round
and fixed on to the point of the skewer.

Mode. When the bird is firmly and plumply trussed, roast it
before a nice bright fire ; keep it well basted, and a few minutes
before serving, flour and froth it well. Dish it, and serve with gravy
and bread sauce, and send to table hot and quickly. A little of the
gravy should be poured over the bird.— See coloured plate, D 1.

BOAST PABTBIDGE.

526

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — 25 to 35 minutes. Average cost, Is. 6(7. to 2s. a brace.
Sufficient, — 2 for a disb.

Seasonable from the 1st of September to the beginning of
February.

The Pahtiudge.— 1 This bird is to bo fonnd in nearly all the temperate countries
of Europe, but is most abundant in the Ukraine, although it is unable to bear the

extremes of climate, whether hot or cold. It
was formerly very common in France, and is
considered a table luxury in England. The
instinct of this bird is frequently exemplified
in a remarkable manner, for the preservation
sp of its young. “ I have seen it often,” says

j // a very celebrated writer, and an accurate
’’ observer of nature, “and once in particular,

^ ffiax? I saw an extraordinary instance of an old bird’s

solicitude to save its brood. As I was hunting
with a young pointer, the dog ran on a brood
of very small partridges ; the old bird cried,
fluttered, and ran tumbling along just before
the dog's nose, till she had drawn him to a
considerable distance, when 6he took wing,
and flew' still further off, but not out of the
field ; on this the dog returned to me, near the place where theyoung ones lay concealed
in the grass, which the old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us, settled
just before the dog's nose again, and by rolling and tumbling about, drew off- his attention
from her young, and thus preserved her brood a second time. I have also seen, when
a kite has beeii hovering over a covey of young partridges, the old birds fly up at the
bird of prey, screaming and fighting with all their might to preserve their brood."
Partridges should be chosen young ; if old, they are valueless. The young ones are
generally known by their yellow' legs and dark-coloured bills.

rAKTRIDGES.

PHEASANT CUTLETS.

1040. Ingredients. — 2 or 3 pheasants, egg andbread crumbs, cayenne
and salt to taste, brown gravy.

Mode. — Procure 3 young pheasants that have been hung a few
days ; pluck, draw, and wipe them inside ; cut them into joints ;
remove the bones from the best of these ; and the backbones, trim-
mings, &e., put into a stewpan, with a little stock, herbs, vegetables,
seasoning, &c., to make the gravy. Flatten and trim the cutlets of a
good shape, egg and bread crumb them, broil them over a clear fire,
pile them high in the dish, and pour under them the gravy made from
the bones, which should be strained, flavoured, and thickened. One
of the small bones should be stuck on the point of each cutlet.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, 2s. 6(7. to 3s. each.

Sufficient for 2 entries.

Seasonable from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.

BOAST PHEASANT.

1041. Ingredients.— Pheasant, flour, butter.

Choosing and Trussing. — Old pheasants may be known by the length

GAME.

527

and sharpness of their spurs ; in young ones they are short and blunt.
The cock bird is generally reckoned the
best, except when the hen is with egg.

They should hang some time before they
are dressed, as, if they are cooked fresh,
the flesh will be exceedingly dry and
tasteless. After the bird is plucked and
drawn, wipe the inside with a damp cloth, and truss it in the same
manner as partridge, No. 1039. If the head is left on, as shown in the
engraving, bring it round under the wing, and fix it on to the point
of the skewer.

Mode. — Roast it before a brisk fire, keep it well basted, and flour and
froth it nicely. Serve with brown gravy, a little of which should be
poured round the bird, and a tureen of bread sauce. 2 or 3 of the
pheasant’s best tail-feathers are sometimes stuck in the tail as an
ornament ; but the fashion is not much to be’ commended. — See coloured
plate, F 1 .

Time. — § to 1 hour, according to the size.

Average cost, 2s. 6 d. to 3s. each. Sufficient, — 1 for a dish.

Seasonable from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.

The Pheasax T. — This beautiful bird is said to have been discovered by the Argonauts
on the banks of the Phasis, near Mount Ararat, in their expedition to Colchis. It is
common, however, in almost all the
southern parts of the European conti-
nent, and has been long naturalized in
the warmest and most woody counties of
England. It is very common in France ;
indeed, so common as to be esteemed a
nuisance by the farmers. Although it
has been domesticated, this is not easily
accomplished, nor is its flesh so palatable
then as it is in the wild state. Mr. Ude
says — “ It is not often that pheasants are
met- with possessing that exquisite taste
which is acquired only by long keeping,
as the damp of this climate prevents their
being kept as long as they are in other
countries. The hens, in general, are the
most delicate. The cocks show their age
by their spurs. They are only fit to be

eaten when the blood begins to run from TUE fheasant.

the bill, which is commonly six days or a

week after they have been lulled. The flesh is white, tender, and has a good flavour,
if you keep it long enough ; if not, it is not much different from that of a common
fowl or hen.”

BRILLAT SAVARIN’S RECIPE FOR ROAST PHEASANT,

a la Sainte Alliance.

1042. When the pheasant is in good condition to be cooked {see No. 1041), it
should bo plucked, and not before. The bird should then be stuffed' in the
following manner : — Tako two snipes, and draw them, putting the bodies on
one plate, and tho livers, &e., on another. Take off the flesh, and mince it

528

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

finely with a little boef, -lard, a few truffles, pepper and salt to taste, and
stuff the pheasant carefully with this. Cut a slice of bread, larger consider-
ably than the bird, and cover it with the liver, &c., and a few truffles : an
anchovy and a little fresh butter added to these will do no harm. Put the
bread, &c., into the dripping-pan, and, when the bird is roasted, place it on
the preparation, and surround it with Florida oranges.

Do not be uneasy, Savarin adds, about your dinner ; for a pheasant served in
this way is fit for beings better than men. The pheasant itself is a very good
bird ; and, imbibing the dressing and the flavour of the truffle and snipe, it
becomes thrice better.

BROILED PHEASANT (a Breakfast or Luncheon Dish).

1043. Ingredients. — 1 pheasant, a little lard, egg and bread
crumbs, salt and cayenne to taste.

Mode. — Cut the legs oft’ at the first joint, and the remainder of the
bird into neat pieces ; put them into a fryingpan with a little lard,
and when browned on both sides, and about half done, take them
out and drain them ; brush the pieces over with egg, and sprinkle
with bread crumbs with which has been mixed a good seasoning of
-cayenne and salt. Broil them over a moderate fire for about 10
minutes, or rather longer, and serve with mushroom- sauce, sauce
piquante, or brown gravy, in which a few'game-bones and trimmings
have been stewed.

Time. — Altogether i hour. Sufficient for 4 ora persons.

Seasonable from the 1st of October to the beginning of February.

The Height of Excellence in a Pheasant. — Things edible have their degrees of
excellence under various eircumstauees : thus, asparagus, capers, peas, and partridges
are best when young. Perfection in others is only reached when they attain maturity :
let us say, for example, melons and nearly all fruits (we must except, perhaps, the
medlar), with the majority of those animals whose flesh we eat. But others, again, are
not good until decomposition is about to set in ; and here we may mention particularly
the snipe and the pheasant. If the latter bird be eaten so soon as three days after it
has been killed, it then has no peculiarity of flavour; a pullet would be more relished,
and a quail would surpass it in aroma. Kept, however, a proper length of time, —and
t his can be ascertained by a slight smell and change of colour, — then it becomes a highly-
flavoured dish, occupying, so to speak, the middle distance between chicken and venison.
It is difficult to define any exact time to “ hang ” a pheasant ; but anv one possessed of
the instincts of gastronomieal science, can at once detect the right moment when a
pheasant should be taken down, in the same way as a good cook knows whether a bird
should be removed from the spit, or have a turn or two more.

TO DRESS PLOVERS.

1044. Ingredients. — 3 plovers, butter, flour, toasted bread.

Choosing and Trussing. — Choose those that feel hard at the vent,
as that shows their fatness. There are three sorts, — the grey, green,
and bastard plover, or lapwing. They will keep good for some time,
hut if very stale, the feet will be very dry. Plovers are scarcely fit
for anything but roasting ; they are, however, sometimes stewed, or

OA.MK.

529

made' into a ragout, but tliis mode of cooking is not to be recom-
mended.

Mode. — Pluck off the feathers, wipe the outside of the birds with
a damp cloth, and do not draw them ; truss with the head under the
wing, put them down to a clear fire, and lay slices of moistened toast
in the dripping-pan, to catch the trail. Keep them well baste d,
dredge them lightly with flour a few minutes before they are done,
and let them he nicely frothed. Dish them on the toasts, over which
the trail should he equally spread. Pour round the toast a little good
gravy, and send some to table in a tureen.

Time. — 10 minutes to £ hour.

Average cost, Is. 6 d. the brace, if plentiful.

Sufficient for 2 persons.

Seasonable. — In perfection from the beginning of September to tne
end of January.

The Plover. — There are two species of this bird, the grey and the green, the former
being larger than the other, and somewhat less
than the woodcock. It has generally, been
classed with those birds which chiefly live in
the water ; but it would seem only to seek its
food there, tor many of the species breed
upon the loftiest mountains. Immense flights
of these birds are to be seen in the Hebrides,
and other parts of Scotland ; and, in the win-
ter, large numbers are sent to the London
market, which is sometimes so much glutted
with them that they are sold very cheap.

Previous to dressing, they are kept till they
have a game flavour; and although their
flesh is a favourite with many, it is not uni- the plover.

versally relished. The green is preferred to

the grey, but both are inferior to the woodcock. Their eggs are esteemed as a great
delicacy. Birds of this kind are migratory. They arrive in England in April, live with
ns all the spring and summer, and at the beginning of autumn prepare to take leave by
getting together in flocks. It is supposed that they then retire to Spain, and frequent
the sheep-walks -with which that country abounds.

TO DRESS THE PTARMIGAN.

1045. Ingredients. — 2 or 3 birds ; butter, flour, fried bread crumbs.

Mode. — The ptarmigan, or white grouse, when young and tender,
are exceedingly fine eating, and should be kept as long as possible,
to be good. Pluck, draw, and truss them in the same manner as
grouse, No. 1025, and roast them before a brisk fire. Flour and froth
them nicely, and serve on buttered toast, with a tureen of brown
gravy. Bread sauce, when liked, may be sent to table with them,
and fried bread crumbs substituted for the toasted bread.

Tune. — About i hour. Sufficient, — 2 for a dish.

Seasonable from the beginning of February to the end of April.

2 M

530

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

The Ptarmigan, orWiiitb Grouse. — This bird is nearly the same tize as red grouse,
* and is fond of lofly situations, where it

braves the severest "weather, and is found
in roost parts of Europe, as well as in
Greenland. At Hudson's Bay they appear
in such multitudes that so many as silty
or seventy are frequently taken at once
in a net. As they are as tame as chickens,
this is done without difficulty. Button says
that the Ptarmigan avoids the solar heat,
and prefers the frosts of the summits of
the mountains; for, as the snow melts on
the sides of the mountains, it ascends till
it gains the top, where it makes a hole,
and burrows in the snow. In winter, it
flies in (looks, and feeds on the wild vege-
tation of the hills, which imparts to its
flesh a bitter, but not altogether an un-
the ptarmigan . palatable taste. It is dark-coloured, and

has something of the flavour of the hare,
nud is greatly relished, and much sought after by some sportsmen.

TO DRESS QUAILS.

1046. Ingredients.— Quails, butter, toast.

Mode.— These birds keep good several days, and should be roasted
■without drawing. Truss them in the same manner as woodcocks,
No. 1062 \ roast them before a clear fire, keep them well basted, and
serve on toast.

Time.. — About 20 minutes. Average cost. — Seldom bought.
Sufficient 2 for a dish.

Seasonable from October to December.

The Quail. — Quails are almost universally diffused over Europe, Asia, and Africa.

Being birds of passage, they are seen in immense
llocks, traversing the Mediterranean Sea from
Europe to Africa, in the autumn, and returning
again in the spring, frequently alighting in their
passage on many of the islands of the Archi-
pelago, which, with their vast numbers, they
almost completely cover. On the western coasts
of the kingdom of Naples, they have appeared
in such prodigious numbers, that, within, the
compass of four or five miles, ns many as a
hundred thousand have been taken in a day.
“ From these circumstances,” says a writer on
natural history, “ it appears highly probable
that the quails which supplied the Israelites
THE quail. with food during their journey through the

wilderness, were sent thither, on their passage
to the north, by a wind from the south-west, sweeping over Egypt and Ethiopia towards
the shores of the Red Sea.” In England they are not .very numerous, although they
breed in it; and many of them are said to remain throughout the year, changing their
quarters from the interior parts of the country for the seacoast.

TO DBESS SNIPES.

1047. Ingredients. — Snipes, butter, flour, toast.

Mode. — These, like woodcocks, should be dressed without being
drawn. Pluck, and wipe them outside, and truss them with the bead

GAME.

531

under the wing', having previously skinned that and tne neck. Twist
the legs at the first joint, press the feet upon
the thighs, and pass a skewer through these and
the body. Place four on a skewer, tie them on
to the jack or spit, and roast before a clear lire
for about ? hour. Put some pieces of buttered
toast into the dripping-pan to catch the trails ; flour and froth the
birds nicely, dish the pieces of toast with the snipes on them, and pour
round, hut not over them, a little good brown gravy. They should be
sent to table very hot and expeditiously, or they will not be worth
eating. — See coloured plate M 1.

Time. — About j hour. Average cost, Is. 6 d. to 2s. the brace.

Sufficient, — 4 for a dish.

Seasonable from November to February.

BOAST STUPE.

Note. — Ortolans are trussed and dressed in the same manner. .

The Stupe.—1 This is a migratory bird, and is generally distributed over Europe. It
is found in most parts of England, in the high
as well as the low lands, depending much on
the weather. In very wet seasons it resorts to
the hills, but at other times frequents marshes,
where it can penetrate the earth with its bill,
hunting for worms, which form its principal
food. In the Hebrides and the Orkneys snipes
are plentiful, and they are fattest in frosty
weather. In the breeding season the snipe
changes its note entirely from that which it has
in the winter. The male will keep on wing for
an hour together, mounting like a lark, and
uttering a shrill piping noise ; then, with a
bleating sound, not unlike that made by an old
goat, it will descend with great velocity, espe-
cially if the female be sitting in her nest, from which it will not wander far.

ROAST TEAL.

1048. Ingeedients.— Teal, butter, a little flour.

Mode. — Choose fat plump birds, after the frost has set in, as they
are generally better flavoured ; truss them in the same manner as wild
duck, PTo. 1022 ; roast them before a brisk fire, and keep them well
basted. Serve with brown or orange gravy, water- cresses, and a
cut lemon. The remains of teal make excellent hash.

Time. — From 9 to 15 minutes.

Average cost, Is. each ; but seldom bought.

Sufficient, — 2 for a dish. «•'

Seasonable from October to February.

ROAST HATJISrCH OE VENISON.

1049. Ingeedients. — Yenison, coarse flour-and-water paste, a
little flour.

2 m 2

532

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. Choose a haunch with clear, bright, and thick fat, and the
cleft of the hoof smooth and close ; the greater quantity of fat there
is, the better quality will the meat be. As many people object to
venison when it has too much hunt gout , ascertain how long it has
been kept, by running a sharp skewer into the meat close to the bone :
when this is withdrawn, its sweetness can be judged of. With care
and attention, it will keep good a fortnight, unless the weather is very
mild. Keep it perfectly dry by wiping it with clean cloths till not the
least damp remains, and sprinkle over powdered ginger or pepper, as
a preventative against the fly. When required for use, wash it in
warm water, and dry it well with a cloth ; butter a sheet of white

paper, put it over the fat, lay
a coarse paste, about 3 inch in
thickness, over this, and then
a sheet or two of strong paper.
Tie the whole firmly on to the
haunch with twine, and put
the joint down to a strong
close fire ; baste the venison immediately, to prevent the paper and
string from burning, and continue this operation, without intermission,
the whole of the time it is cooking. About 20 minutes before it is
done, carefully remove the paste and paper, dredge the joint with flour,
and baste well with hitter until it is nicely frothed, and of a nice pale-
brown colour ; garnish the knuckle-bone with a frill of white paper,
and serve with a good, strong, but unflavoured gravy, in a tureen, and
currant jelly ; or melt the jelly with a little port wine, and serve that
also in a tureen. As the principal object in roasting venison is to
preserve the fat, the above is the best mode of doing so where expense
is not objected to ; but, in ordinary cases, the paste may be dispensed
with, and a double paper placed over the roast instead : it will not
require so long cooking without the paste. Do not omit to send very
hot plates to table, as the venison fat so soon freezes : to be thoroughly
enjoyed by epicures, it should be eaten on hot- water plates. The neck
and shoulder may be roasted in the same manner.

Time. — A large haunch of buck venison, with the paste, 4 to 5
hours ; haunch of doe venison, 3i to 3| hours. Allow less time
without the paste.

Average cost, Is. 4 d. to Is. 6d. per lb.

Sufficient for 18 persons.

Seasonable. — Buck venison in greatest perfection from J une to
Michaelmas ; doe venison from November to the end of January.

The Deer. — This active tribe of animals principally inhabit wild and woody regions.
In their contentions, both with each other and the rest ot the brute creation, these

ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.

GAME.

533

animals not only use their horns, but strike very furiously with their fore feet. Some of
tho species are employed ns beasts of draught, whilst the llesli of the whole is wholesome,
and that of some of the kinds, under the name of “venison,” is considered very delicious.
Persons fond of hunting have invented peculiar terms by which the objects of their pursuit
are characterized : thus the stag is called, the first year, a calf \ or hind-calf ; the second,
a knohber ; the third, a brock; the fourth, a staggard ; the fifth, a, stag; and the sixth,
a hart. The female is, the first year, called a caf; the second, a hearse ; and the third,
a hind . In Britain, the stag has become scarcer than it formerly was ; but, in the High-
lands of Scotland, herds of four or five hundred may still be seen, ranging over the vast
mountains of the north ; and some of the stags of a great size. In former times, the
great feudal chieftains used to hunt with all the pomp of eastern sovereigns, assembling
some thousands of their clans, who drove the deer into the toils, or to such stations as
were occupied by their chiefs. As this sport, however, was occasionally used as a means
for collecting their vassals together for the purpose of concocting rebellion, an act was
passed prohibitory of such assemblages. In the “Waverley" of Sir Walter Scott, a
deer-hunting scene of this kind is admirably described.

Venison.— This is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of deer, and is esteemed
as very delicious. Different species of deer are found in warm as well as cold climates,
and are in several instances invaluable to man. This is especially the ease with the
Laplander, whose reindeer constitutes a large proportion of Iris wealth. There —

“ The reindeer unharness’d in freedom can play,

And safely o’er Odin’s steep precipice stray,

Whilst the wolf to the forest recesses may fly,

And howl to the moon as she glides through the sky.”

In that country it is the substitute for the horse, the cow, the. goat, and the sheep.
Prom its milk is produced cheese ; from its skin, clothing ; from its tendons, bowstrings
and thread ; from its horns, glue ; from its bones, spoons ; and its flesh furnishes food.
In England we have the stag, an animal of great beauty, and much admired. He is a
native of many parts of Europe, and is supposed to have been originally introduced
into this country from Prance. About a century back he was to be found wild in some
of the rough and mountainous parts of Wales, as well as in the forests of Exmoor, in
Devonshire, and the woods on the banks of the Tamar. In the middle ages the deer
formed food for the not over abstemious monks, as represented by Friar Tuck’s larder,
in the admirable fiction of “Ivanboe;” and at a later period it was a deer-stealing
adventure that drove the “ ingenious ” William Shakspeare to London, to become a
common player, and the greatest dramatist that ever lived.

HASHED VENISON.

1050. Ingredients. — The remains of roast venison, its own or
mutton gravy, thickening of butter and flour.

Mode. — Cut the meat from the bones in neat slices, and, if there is
sufficient of its own gravy left, put the meat into this, as it is prefer-
able to any other. Should there not he enough, put the bones and
trimmings into a stewpan, with about a pint of mutton gravy ; let
them stew gently for an hour, and strain the gravy. Put a little
flour and butter into the stewpan, keep stirring until brown, then add
the strained gravy, and give it a boil up ; skim and strain again, and,
when a little cool, put in the slices of venison. Place the stewpan by
the side of the fire, and, when on the point of simmering, serve : do
not allow it to boil, or the meat will be hard. Send red-currant jelly
to table with it.

Time. — Altogether, 1^ hour.

Seasonable— Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas ; doe venison,
from November to the end of January.

Note. A small quantity of Harvey’s sauce, ketchup, or port wine, may be

534

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

added to enrich tlio gravy : these ingredients must, however, be used very
sparingly, or they will overpower the flavour of the venison.

The Fallow-Deer.— This is the domestic or park deer ; and no two animals can make
a nearer approach to each other than the stag and it, and yet no two animals keep
more distinct, or avoid each other with a more inveterate animosity They never
herd or intermix together, and consequently never give rise to an intermediate race •
it is even rare, unless they have been transported thither, to find fallow-deer in a

fallow-deee (ettck).

country where stags are numerous. He is very esaily tamed, and feeds upon many
things which the stag refuses : he also browzes closer than the stag, and preserves
his venison better. The doe produces one fawn, sometimes two, but rarefy three.
In short, they resemble the stag iu all his natural habits, and the greatest difference
between them is the duration of their lives : the stag, it is said, lives to the age of
thirty-five or forty years, and the fallow-deer does not live more than twenty. ’ As
they are smaller than the stag, it is probable that their growth is sooner completed.

STEWED VEMTSOE".

1051. Ingredients. — A shoulder of vcnisoD, a few slices of mutton
fat, 2 glasses of port wine, pepper and allspice to taste, 1 j pint of weak
stock or gravy, f teaspoonful of whole pepper, 5 teaspoonful of whole
allspice.

Mode. — Hang the venison till tender ; take out the hone, flatten the
meat with a rolling-pin, and place over it a few slices of mutton fat,
which have been previously soaked for 2 or 3 hours in port wine ;
sprinkle these with a little tine allspice and pepper, roll the meat up,
and hind and tie it securely. Put it into a stewpan with the bone and
the above proportion of weak stock or gravy, whole allspice, black
pepper, and port wine ; cover the lid down closely, and simmer, very
gently, from 3? to 4 hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, and
dish the meat ; strain the gravy over it, and send it to table with red-

GAILE.

535

currant jelly. Unless the joint is very fat, the above is the best mode
of cooking it.

Time. — 3-i to 4 hours.

Average cost, Is. 4 d. to Is. Qd. per lb.

Sufficient for 10 or 12 persons.

Seasonable. — Buck venison, from June to Michaelmas; doe venison,
from November to the end of January.

The Boebuck. — This is the Cervus capreolus , or common roe, and is of a reddish-browu
colour. It is an inhabitant of Asia, as well as of Europe. It has great grace in its

movements, and stands about two feet seven inches high, aud has a length of about three
feet nine. The extent of its horns is from six to eight inches.

The Stag. — The stag, or hart, is the male of the red deer, and the hind is the female.
He is much larger than the fallow-deer, and bis age is indicated by his horns, which are
round instead of being palmated, like those of the fallow-deer. During the first year
he has no horns, but a horny excrescence, which is short and rough, and covered with

THE stag.

a thin hairy skin. The next year, the horns are single and straight; and in the third
they have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and five the sixth year ;
although ^ this number is not always certain, for sometimes they are more, and often
less. After the sixth year, the antlers do not always increase ; and, although in

536

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

number they may amount to six or seven on each side, yet the animal's age is then
estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the thickness of the branch which sus-
tains them, than by their variety. Largo ns these horns seem, however, they are shed
every year, and their place supplied by new ones. This usually takes place in the spring.
When the old horns have fallen oif, the new ones do not make their appearance immedi-
ately ; but the bones of the skull arc seen covered with a transparent periosteum, or skin,
which enwraps the bones of all animals. Alter a short time, however, the skin begins to
swell, and to form a sort of tumour. From this, by-and-by, rising from the head, shoo',
forth the antlers from each side ; and, in a short time, in proportion as the animal is in
condition, the entire horns are completed. The Bolidity of the extremities, however, is not
perfect until the horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually shed their
horns lirst, which generally happens towards the latter end of February or the beginning
of March. Such as are between five and six years old shed them about the middle or
latter end of March ; those still younger in the month of April ; and the youngest of all
not till the middle or latter end of May. These rules, though generally true, are subject
to variations ; for a severe Winter will retard the shedding of the horns. — The Hind has
no horns, and is less fitted for being hunted than the male. She takes the greatest care
of her young, and secretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they become a prey
to their numerous enemies. All the rapacious family of the cat kind, with the wolf, the
dog, the eagle, and the falcon, are continually endeavouring to find her retreat, whilst
the stag himself is the foe of his own offspring. When she has young, therefore, it
would seem that the courage of the male is transferred to the female, for she defends
them with the most resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter, she will fly before the
hounds for half the day, and then return to her young, whoso life she has thus preserved
at the hazard of her own.

Tee New Venison.— The deer population of our splendid English parks was, until a
few years since, limited to two species, the fallow and the red. But as the fallow-deer
itself was an acclimated animal, of comparatively recent introduction, it came to be a
question why might not the proprietor of any deer-park in England have the luxury of
at least half a dozen species of deer and antelopes, to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes,
and rich pastures of his domain ? The temperate regions of the whole world might be
made to yield specimens of the noble ruminant, valuable either for their individual
beauty, or for their availability to gastronomic purposes.

During the last four or five years a few spirited English noblemen have made the
experiment of breeding foreign deer in their parks, and have obtained such a decided

ELAND (BULL). ELAND (COW).

success, that it may be hoped their example will induce others to follow in a course which
will eventually give to England’s rural scenery a new element of beauty, and to English
tables a fresh viand of the choicest character.

A practical solution of this interesting question was made by viscount llill, at Hawke-
stone Park, Salop, in January, 1859. On that occasion a magnificent eland, an acclimated
scion of the species whose native home is the South African wilderness, was killed for
the table. The noble beast was thus described “ He weighed 1,170 lbs. as he dropped ;
huge as a short-born, but with bone not half the size ; active as a deer, stately in all
his paces, perfect in form, bright in colour, with a vast dewlap, and strong sculptured
horn This eland in his lifetime strode majestic on the hill-side, where he dwelt with lm
mates and their progeny, uU English-born, like himself.” Three pairs of the same
species of deer were left to roam at largo on the picturesque slopes throughout the day,

Ii 1. Pigeon. I 1. Woodcock.

L 1. Grouse.

MODERN MODE OF SERVING DISHES.

GAME.

537

and to return to their home at pleasure. “ Here, during winter, they are assisted with
roots and hay, hut in summer they have nothing but the pasture of the paih ; so that,
in point of expense, they cost no more than cattle ot the best description I ravell r
and sportsmen say that the male eland is unapproaohed in the quality of !his flesh by any
ruminant in South Africa; that it grows to an enormous size, and lays on fat with as
great facility as a true short-horn ; while in texture and flavour it is infinitely superior.
The lean is remarkably fine, the fat firm and delicate. It was tried in every fashion,
braised brisket, roasted ribs, broiled steaks, filet sautd, boiled aitchbone, Ae., and m
all, gave evidence of the fact, that a new meat of surpassing value had been added to the
products of the English park. . . , ,

When we hear such a gratifying account of the eland, it is pleasing to record that
lord Hastings has a herd of the Canadian wapiti, a herd of Indian nylghaus, and another
of the small Indian hog-deer; that the Earl of Ducie has been successful in breeding
the magnificent Persian deer. The eland was first acclimated in England by the late
Earl of Derby, between the years 1835—1851, at his menagerie at Knowsley. On his
lentil in 1851, he bequeathed to the Zoological Society his breed of elands, consisting ot
two males and three females. Hero- the animals have been treated with the ^greatest
success, and from the year 1853 to the present time, the females have regularly repro-
duced, without the loss of a single calf.

ROAST WIDGEON.

1052. Ingredients. — Widgeons, a little flour, butter.

Mode. — These are trussed iu the same manner as wild duck, Ho.
1022, but must not be kept so long before they are dressed. Put them
down to a brisk fire ; flour, and baste them continually with butter,
and, when browned and nicely frothed, send them to table hot and
quickly. Serve with brown gravy, or orange gravy, No. 488, and a
cut lemon.

Time. — 5 hour ; if liked well done, 20 minutes.

Average cost, Is. each ; but seldom bought.

Sufficient, — 2 for a dish.

Seasonable from October to February.

ROAST WOODCOCK.

1053. Ingredients.— Woodcocks ; butter, flour, toast.

Mode. — Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trails are, by epi-
cures, considered a great delicacy. Pluck, and wipe them well out-
side ; truss them with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing
upon the thighs ; skin the neck and head,
and bring the beak round under the wing.

Place some slices of toast in the dripping-
pan tp catch the trails, allowing a piece of
toast for each bird. Roast before a clear
fire from 15 to 25 minutes ; keep them well
basted, and flour and froth them nicely. When done, dish the pieces
of toast with the birds upon them, and pour round a very little gravy ;
send some more to table in a tureen. These are most delicious birds
when well cooked, hut they should not he kept too long : when the
feathers drop, or easily come out, they are fit for table.— See coloured
plate, 1 1.

EOAST woodcock:.

538

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — When liked underdone, 15 to 20 minutes ; if liked well
done, allow an extra 5 minutes.

Average cost. — Seldom bought.

Sufficient, — 2 for a dish.

Seasonable from November to February.

The W oodcock. — This bird being migratory in its habits, has, consequently, no settle!
habitation ; it canupt be considered us the property of any one, and is, therefore, not

game by law. It breeds in high northern lati-
tudes, and the time of its appearance and dis-
appearance in Sweden coincides -exactly with
that of its arrival in and return from ' Greit
Britain. On the coast of Suffolk its vernal ard
autumnal visits have been accurately observed.
In the first week of October it makes its appear-
ance in small numbers, but in November aid
December it appears in larger numbers, and.
always after sunset, and most gregariously. In
the same manner as woodcocks take their leave
of us, they quit France, Germany, and Italy,
making the northern and colder climates their
summer rendezvous. They visit Burgundy in
the woodcock. the latter part of October, but continue there

, only a few weeks, the country being hard, and

unable to supply them with such sustenance as they require. In the winter, they are found
as far south as Smyrna and Alepjro, and, during the same season, in Barbary, where the
Africans name them “ the ass of the partridge.” It has been asserted that they have
been seen as far south as Egypt, which i3 the most remote regiou to which they can be
traced on that side of the eastern world ; on the other side, they are common in Japan.
Those which resort to the countries of the Levant are supposed to come from the moun-
tains of Armenia, or the deserts of Tartary or Siberia. The flesh of the woodcock is held -
in high estimation ; hence the bird is eagerly sought after by the sportsman.

GAME CARVING.

BLACKCOCK.

1054. Skilful carving of game undoubtedly adds to the pleasure of
the guests at a dinner-table ; for game seems pre-eminently to be
composed of such delicate limbs and tender flesh that an inapt prac-
titioner appears to more disadvantage when mauling these pretty and
favourite dishes, than larger and more robust pieces de resistance. As
described at recipe No. 1019, this bird is variously served with or
without the head on ; and although we do not personally object to the
appeaTance of the head as shown in the woodcut, yet it seems to be
more in vogue to serve it without. The carving
is not difficult, but should be elegantly and
deftly done. Slices from the breast, cut in
4}^ direction of the dotted line from 2 to 1,
blackcock. should be taken off, the merrythought dis-

placed, and the leg and wing removed by running the knife along from
3 to 4, and following the directions given under the head of boiled

GAME.

539

fowl, No. 1000, reserving the thigh, which is considered a great deli-
cacy, for the most honoured guests, some of whom may also esteem
the brains of this bird.

WILD DUCK.

1055. As game is almost universally served as a dainty, and not
as a dish to stand the assaults of an altogether fresh appetite, these
dishes are not usually cut up entirely,
but only those parts are served of each,
which are considered the best-flavoured
and the primest. Of wild-fowl, the breast
alone is considered by epicures worth eat-
ing, and slices are cut from this, in the direction indicated by the lines,
from 1 to 2 ; if necessary, the leg and wing can be taken of: by passing
the knife from 3 to 4, and by generally following the directions
described for carving boiled fowl, No. 1000.

WILD DUCK.

ROAST HARE.

BOAST HAEE.

1056. The “ Grand Carver ” of olden times, a functionary of no ordi-
nary dignity, was pleased when he had a hare to manipulate, for his
skill and grace had an opportunity of dis-
play. Diners d la Russe may possibly,
erewhile, save modern gentlemen the neces-
sity of learning the art which was in auld
lang syne one of the necessary accomplish-
ments of the youthful squire ; but, until
side-tables become universal, or till we see the office of “ grand carver ”
once more instituted, it will be well for all to learn how to assist at
the carving of this dish, which, if not the most elegant in appearance,
is a very general favourite. The hare, having its head to the left, as
shown in the woodcut, should be first served by cutting slices from
each side of the backbone, in the direction of the lines from 3 to 4.
After these prime parts are disposed of, the leg should next be dis-
engaged by cutting round the line indicated by the figures 5 to 6.
The shoulders will then be taken off by passing the knife round from
7 to 8. ' The back of the hare should now be divided by cutting quite
through its spine, as shown by the line 1 to 2, taking care to feel with
the point of the knife for a joint where the back may be readily
penetrated. It is the usual plan not to serve any bone in helping
hare ; and thus the flesh should be sliced from the legs and placed
alone on the plate. In large establishments, and where men-cooks
are kept, it is often the case that the backbone of the hare, especially

510

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

in old animals, is taken out, and then the process of carving is, of
course, considerably facilitated. A great point to be remembered
in connection with carving bare is, that plenty of gravy should
accompany each helping ; otherwise this dish, which is naturally dry,
will lose half its flavour, and so become a failure. Stuifing is also
served with it ; and the ears, which should be nicely crisp, and the
brains of the hare, are esteemed as delicacies by many connoisseurs.

PARTRIDGES.

1057. There are several ways of carving this most familiar game
bird. The more usual and summary mode is to carry the knife
sharply along the top of the breastbone of
the bird, and cut it quite through, thus di-
viding it into two precisely equal and similar
parts, in the same manner as carving a pigeon,
No. 1003. Another plan is to cut it into three
pieces ; viz., by severing a small wing and
leg on either side from the body, by following
the line 1 to 2 in the upper woodcut ; thus
making 2 helpings, when the breast will re-
main for a third plate. The most eleganl
manner is that of thrusting back the body from the legs, and then
cutting through the breast in the direction shown by the line 1 to 2 :
this plan will give 4 or more small helpings. A little bread-sauce
should be served to each guest.

BOAST TAETEIDGES.

GROUSE.

1058. Geotjse may be carved in the way first described in carving
partridge. The backbone of the grouse is highly
esteemed by many, and this part of many game
birds is considered the finest flavoured.

PHEASANT.

1059. Fixing the fork in the breast, let the carver cut slices from it
in the direction of the lines from 2 to 1 : these are the prime pieces. If

there be more guests to satisfy than
these slices will serve, then let the legs
and wings be disengaged in the same
manner as described in carving boiled
fowl, No. 1000, the point where the
wing joins the neclcbone being carefully
found. The merrythought will come ofl in the same way as that of

BOAST PHEASANT.

GAME.

511

a fowl. The most valued parts are the same as those which are most
cpnsidered in a fowl.

SNIPE.

1060. One of these small but delicious birds may be given, whole,
to a gentleman ; but, in helping a lady, it will
be better to cut them quite through the centre, from
1 to 2, completely dividing them into equal and like
portions, and put only one half on the plate.

snips.

HAUNCH OP VENISON.

HAUNCH 03? VENISON.

1061. Here is a grand dish for a knight of the carving-knife to
exercise his skill upon, and, what will be pleasant for many to know,
.there is. but little difficulty in the
performance. An incision being
made completely down to the bone,
in the direction of the line 1 to 2,
the gravy will then be able easily
te flow ; when slices, not too thick,
should be cut along the haunch, as indicated by the line 4 to 3 ; that
end of the joint marked 3 having been turned towards the carver, so
that he may have a more complete command over the joint. Although
some epicures affect to believe that some parts of the haunch are
superior to others, yet we doubt if there is any difference between the
slices cut above and below the line. It should be borne in mind to
serve each guest with a portion of fat; and the most expeditious
carver will be the best carver, as, like mutton, venison soon begins to
chill, when it loses much of its charm.

WOODCOCK.

1062. This bird, like a partridge, may be carved by cutting it
exactly into two like portions, or made into three helpings, as de-
scribed in carving partridge (No. 1057). The
backbone is considered the tit-bit of a woodcock,
and by many the thigh is also thought a great
delicacy. This bird is served in the manner
advised by Brillat Savarin, in connection with
thb pheasant, viz., on toast which has received
its drippings whilst roasting; and a piece of this toast should inva-
riably accompany each plate.

WOODCOCK.

542

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

LANDRAIL.

1063. Landrail, being trussed like Snipe, with the exception of its
being drawn, may be carved in the same manner.— See No. 1000.

PTARMIGAN.

1064. Ptarmigan, being of much the same size, and trussed in the
same manner, as the red-bird, may be carved in the manner described
in Partridge and Grouse carving, Nos. 1057 and 1058.

QUAILS.

1065. Quails, being trussed and served like Woodcock, may be
similarly carved. — See No. 1062.

PLOVERS.

1066. Plovers may be carved like Quails or Woodcock, being
trussed and served in the same way as those birds.— See No. 1055.

TEAL.

1067. Teal, being of the same character as Widgeon and Wifcl
Duck, may be treated, in carving, in the same style.

WIDGEON.

1068. Widgeon maybe carved in the same way as described in
regard to Wild Duck, at No. 1055.

CHAPTER XXIY.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES.

“ Strange there should be found
Who, selt'-imprison’d in their proud saloons.

Renounce the odours of the open field
For the unscented fictions of the loom ;

Who, satisfied with only pencilled scenes,

Prefer to the performance oka God,

Th’ inferior wonders of an artist's hand !

Lovely, indeed, the mimic works of art,

But Nature’s works far lovelier.” — Cowpeh.

1069. “The Animal and Vegetable Kingdoms,” says Hogg, in iiis
Natural History of the Vegetable Kingdom, “may be aptly compared to
the primary colours of the prismatic spectrum, which are so gradually and
intimately blended, that we fail to discover where the one terminates and
where the other begins. If we had to deal with yellow and blue only, the eye
would easily distinguish the one from the other ; but when the two are
blended, and form green, we cannot tell where the blue ends and the yellow
begins. , And so it is in the animal and vegetable kingdoms. If our powers of
observation were limited to the highest orders of animals and plants, if there
were only mammals, birds, reptiles, fishes, and insects in the one, and trees,
shrubs, and herbs in the other, we should then be able with facility to define
the bounds of the two kingdoms ; but as we descend the scale of each, and
arrive at the lowest forms of animals and plants, we there meet with bodies
of the simplest structure, sometimes a mero cell, whose organization, modes
of development and reproduction, are so anomalous, and partake so much at

514

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

tlie character of both, that wo cannot distinguish whether they aro plants or
whether thoy aro animals.”

1070. Whilst it is thus difficult to determine where the animal
begins and the vegetable ends, it is as difficult to account for many of the sin-
gularities by which numbers of plants aro characterized. This, however, can
hardly be regarded as a matter of surprise, when we recollect that, so far as it
is at present known, the vegetable kingdom is composed of upwards of 92,000
species of plants. Of this amazing number the lichens and the mosses are of
the simplest and hardiest kinds. These, indeed, may be considered as the very
creators of the soil : they thrive in the coldest and most storile regions, many
of them commencing the operations of nature in the growth of vegetables on the
barest rocks, and receiving no other nourishment than such as may be supplied
to them by the simple elements of air and rain. When they have exhausted
their period in such situations as have been assigned them, they pass into a
state of decay, and become changed into a very fine mould, which, in the active
spontaneity of nature, immediately begins to produce other species, which in
their turn become food for various mosses, and also rot. This process of
growth and decay, being, from time to time, continued, by-and-by forms a soil
sufficient for the maintenance of larger plants, which also die and decay, and
so increase the soil, until it becomes deep enough to sustain an oak, or even
the weight of a tropical forest. To create soil amongst rocks, however, must
not be considered as the only end of the lichen ; different kinds of it ministof
to the elegant arts, in the form of beautiful dyes ; thus the lichen rocella is
used to communicate to silk and wool, various shades of purple and crimson,
which greatly enhance the value of these materials. This species is chiefly
imported from the Canary Islands, and, when scarce, as an article of commerce
has brought as much as £1,000 per ton.

1071. In the vicinity of Lichens, theMusci, or Mosses, are generally
to be found. Indeed, wherever vegetation can be sustained, there they are,
affording protection to the roots and seeds of more delicate vegetables, and,
by their spongy texture, retaining a moisture which preserves other plants
from the withering drought of summer. But even in winter we find them
enlivening, by their verdure, the cold bosom of Nature. We see them abound-
ing in our pastures and our woods, attaching themselves to the living, and
still more abundantly to the dead, trunks and branches of trees. In marshy
places they also abound, and become the medium of their conversion into
fruitful fields. This is exemplified by the manner in which peat-mosses are
formed : on the surface of these we find them in a state of great life and vigour ;
immediately below we discover them, more or less, in a state of decomposition ;
and, still deeper, we find their stems and branches consolidated into a light
brown peat. Thus are extensive tracts formed, ultimately to be brought into a
state of cultivation, and rendered subservient to the wants of man.

*1072. When Nature has found a soil, her next care is to perfect the

VEGETABLES.

545

growth of her seeds, and then to disperse them. Whilst the seed remains
confined in its capsule, it cannot answer its purpose ; hence, when it is suffi-
ciently ripe, the pericardium opens, and lets it out. What must strike every
observer with surprise is, how nuts and shells, which we can hardly crack with
our teeth, or even with a hammer, will divide of themselves, and make way
for the little tender sprout which proceeds from the kernel. There are
instances, it is said, such as in the Touch-me-not ( impatiens ), and the Cuckoo-
flower (cardamine), in which the seed-vessels, by an elastic jerk at the moment
of their explosion, cast the seeds to a distance. We are all aware, however,
that many seeds— those of the most composite flowers, as of the thistle and
dandelion — are endowed with, what have not been inappropriately called,
wings. These consist of a beautiful silk-looking down, by which they are
enabled to float in the air, and to be transported, sometimes, to considerable
distances from the parent plant that produced them. The swelling of this
downy tuft within the seed-vessel is the means by which the seed is enabled to
overcome the resistance of its coats, and to force for itself a passage by which
it escapes from its little prison-house.

1073. Birds, as well as Quadrupeds, are likewise the means of dispersing
the seeds of plants, and placing them in situations where they ultimately grow.
Amongst the latter is the squirrel, which is an extensive planter of oaks ; nay,
it may be regarded as having, in some measure, been one of the creators of
the British navy. We have read of a gentleman who was walking one day in
some woods belonging to the Duke of Beaufort, near Troy House, in Mon-
mouthshire, when his attention was arrested by a squirrel, sitting very com-
posedly upon the ground. He stopped to observe its motions, when, in a short
'time, the little animal suddenly quitted its position, and darted to the top of
the tree beneath which it had been sitting. In an instant it returned with
an acorn in its mouth, and with its paws began to burrow in the earth. After
digging a small hole, it therein deposited an acorn, which it hastily covered,
and then darted up the tree again. In a moment it was down with another,
which it buried in the same manner ; and so continued its labour, gathering
and burying, as long as the gentleman had patience to watch it. This
industry in the squirrel is an instinct which directs it to lay up a store of
provision for the winter ; and as it is probable that its memory is not suffi-
ciently retentive to enable it to recollect all the spots in which it deposits
its acorns, it no doubt makes some slips in the course of the season, and
loses some of them. These few spring up, and are, in time, destined to
supply the place of the parent tree. Thus may the sons of Britain, in some
degree, ' consider themselves to be indebted to the industry and defective
memory of this little animal for the production of some of those “ wooden
walls ” which have, for centuries, been the national pride, and which have so
long “ braved the battle and the breeze ” on the broad bosom of the great deep,
in every quarter of the civilized globe. As with the squirrel, so with jays and
pies, which plant among the grass and moss, horse-beans, and probably forget
whero they havo secreted them. Mr. White, the naturalist, says, that both

2 N

546

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

horse-beans and peas sprang up in his field-walks in the autumn ; and he attri-
butes the sowing of them to birds. Bees, ho also observes, aro much the best
setters of cucumbers. If thoy do not happen to take kindly to the frames, the
best way is to tempt them by a little honey put on the male and female bloom.
When they are once induced to haunt the frames, they set all the fruit, and
will hover with impatience round the lights in a morning till the glasses are
opened.

1074. Some op the Acorns wanted by the Squirrel of Monmouth-
shire may be now in a fair way to become, at the end of some centuries,
venerable trees ; for not the least romarkable quality of oaks is the strong
principle of life with which they are endued. In Major Rooke's “Sketch of
the Forest of Sherwood ” we find it stated that, on somo timber cut down in
Berkland and Bilhaugh, letters were found stamped in tho bodies of the trees,
denoting the king’s reign in which they were marked. The bark appears to
have been cut off, and then the letters to have been cut in, and the next year’s
wood to have grown over them without adhering to where the bark had been
cut out. The ciphers were foimd to be of Jambs I., William and Mary, and
one of King John. One of the ciphers of James was about one foot within the
tree, and one foot from the centre. It was cut down in 1786. The tree must
have been two feet in diameter, or two yards in circumference, when the mark
was cut. A tree of this size is generally estimated at 120 years’ growth ; which
number being subtracted from the middle year of the reign of James, would
carry the year back to 1492, which would be about the period of its being
planted. The tree with the cipher of William and Mary displayed its mark
about nine inches within the tree, and three feet three inches from the centre.
This tree was felled in 1786. The cipher of John was eighteen inches within
the tree, and rather more than a foot from tho centre. The middle year of
the reign of that monarch was 1207. By subtracting from this 120, the number
of years requisite for a tree’s growth to arrive at the diameter of two feet, the
date of its being planted would seem to have been 1085, or about twenty years
after the Conquest.

1075. Considering the great Endurance op these Trees, we aro
necessarily led to inquire into the means by which they are enabled to arrive
at such strength and maturity ; and whether it may be considered as a
humiliation we will not determine, but, with all the ingenious mechanical
contrivances of man, we are still unable to define the limits of the animal and
vegetable kingdoms. “Plants have been described by naturalists, who would
determine the limits of the two kingdoms, as organized living bodies, without
volition or locomotion, destitute of a mouth or intestinal cavity, which, when
detached from their place of growth, die, and, in decay, ferment, but do not
putrefy, and which, on being subjected to analysis, furnish an excess of carbon
and no nitrogen. The powers of chemistry, and of the microscope, however,
instead of confirming these views, tend moro and moro to show that a still
closer affinity exists between plants and animals ; for it is now ascertained

VEGETABLES.

547

that nitrogen, which was believed to bo present only in animals, enters largely
into the composition of plants also. When the microscope is brought to aid
our powers of observation, we find that there are organized bodies belonging
to the vegetable kingdom which possess very evident power’s of locomotion,
and which change about in so very remarkable a manner, that no other cause
than that of volition can be assigned to it.” Thus it would seem that, in this
particular at least, some vegetables bear a very close resemblance to animal
life ; and when we consider the manlier in which they are supplied with nourish-
ment, and perform the functions of their existence, the resemblance would
seem still closer. If, for example, we take a thin transverse slice of the stem
of any plant, or a slice cut across its stem, and immerse it in a little pure
water, and place it under a microscope, we will find that it consists princi-
pally of cells, more or less regular, and resembling those of a honeycomb.

CELLELAB DEVELOPMENT.

or a network of cobweb. The size of these varies in different plants, as it
does in different parts of the same plant, and they are sometimes so minute
as to require a million to cover a square inch of surface. This singular struc-
ture, besides containing water and air, is the repository or storehouse of various
secretions. Through it, the sap, when produced, is diffused sideways through
the plant, and by it numerous changes are effected in the juices which fill its
cells. The forms of the cells are various ; they are also subject to various
transformations. Sometimes a number of cylindrical cells are laid end to end,
and, by the absorption of the transverse partitions, form a continuous tube, as
in the sap-vessels of plants, or in muscular and nervous fibre ; and when cells
ai e thus woven together , they are called cellular tissue, which, in the human
body > forms a fine net-like membrane, enveloping or connecting most of its
structures. In pulpy fruits, the cells may be easily separated one from the
other ; and within tho cells are smaller cells, commonly known as pulp.
Among tho cell-contents of some plants aro beautiful crystals, called rapkides.
The term is derived from peupig, a needle, on account of the resemblanco of
tho crystal to a needle. Thoy are composed of the phosphate and oxalato of

2 N 2

548

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

lime ; but there is great difference of opinion as to tlieir use in the economy of
the plant, and one of the French philosophers endeavoured to prove that crys-

SILICEOUS CUTICLE MOST UNDEE-SIDE OP LEAP OP DEUTZIA SCADBA.

tals are the possible transition of the inorganic to organic matter. The differ-
ences, however, between the highest form of crystal and the lowest form of

SILICEOUS CUTICLE OP GEASS.

organic life known, viz., a simple reproductive cell, are so manifold and
striking, that tlio attempt to make crystals the bridge over which inorganic

VEGETABLES.

549

matter passes into organic, is almost totally regarded as futile. In a layer of
an onion, a fig, a section of garden rhubarb, in some species of aloe, in the
bark of many trees, and in portions of the cuticle of the medicinal squill, bun-
dles of these needle-shaped crystals are to be found. Some of them are as
large as l-40th of an inch, others are as small as the l-1000th. They are found
in" all parts of the plant,— in the stem, bark, leaves, stipules, petals, fruit,
roots, and even in the pollen, with some few exceptions, and they are always
situated in the interior of cells. Some plants, as many of the cactus tribe, are
made up almost entirely of these needle-crystals ; in some instances, every
cell of the cuticle contains a stellate mass of crystals; in others, the whole
interior is full of them, rendering the plant so exceedingly brittle, that the
least touch will occasion a fracture ; so much so, that some specimens of Cactus
senilis, said to be a thousand years old, which were sent a few years since to
Kew, from South America, were obliged to be packed in cotton, with all the
care of the most delicate jewellery, to preserve them during transport.

1076. Besides the Cellular Tissue, there is what is called a vascular
system, which consists of another set of small vessels. If, for example, we,
early in the spring, cut a branch transversely, we will perceive the sap oozing
out from numerous points over the whole of the divided surface, except on
that part occupied by the pith and the bark ; and if a twig, on which the
leaves are already unfolded, be cut from the tree, and placed with its cut end
in a watery solution of Brazil-wood, thfe colouring matter will be found to
ascend into the leaves and to the top of the twig. In both these cases, a close
examination with a powerful microscope, will discover the sap perspiring from
the divided portion of the stem, and the colouring matter rising through real
tubes to the top of the twig : these are the sap or conducting vessels of the
plant. If, however, we examine a transverse section of the vine, or of any
other tree, at a later period of the season, we find that the wood is apparently
dry, whilst the bark, particularly that part next the wood, is swelled with
fluid. This is contained in vessels of a different kind from those in which the
sap rises. They are found in the lark only in trees, and may be called re-
turning vessels, from their carrying the sap downwards after its preparation
in the leaf. It is believed that the passage of the sap in plants. is conducted
in a manner precisely similar to that of the blood in man, from the regular
contraction and expansion of the vessels ; but, on account of their extreme
minuteness, it is almost an impossibility to be certain upon this point. Nume-
rous observations made with the microscope show that their diameter seldom
exceeds a 290th part of a line, or a 3,000th part of an inch. Leuwenhoeck
reckoned 20,000 vessels in a morsel of oak about one nineteenth of an inch
square.

1077. In the Vascular System op a Plant, we at once see the great
analogy which it bears to the veins and arteries in the human system ; but
neither it, nor the cellular tissue combined, is all that is required to perfect
the production of a vegetable. There is, besides, a tracheal system, which

550

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

is composed of very minute elastic spiral tubes, designed for the purpose
of conveying air both to and from the plant. There are also fibres, which
consist of collections of these cells and vessels closely united together.
These form the root and the stem. If we attempt to cut them transversely,
we meet with difficulty, because wo havo to force our way across the tubes,
and break them ; but if we slit the wood lengthwise, the vessels are separated
without breaking. The layers of wood, which appear in the stem or branch
of a tree cut transversely, consist of different zones of fibres, each the produce
of one year’s growth, and separated by a coat of cellular tissue, without which
they could not be well distinguished. Besides all these, there is the cuticle,
which extends over every part of the plant, and covers the bark with three
distinct coats. The liber, or iuner bark, is said to bo formed of hollow tubes,
which convey the sap downwards to increase the solid diameter of the tree.

107S. The Boot and the Stem now demand a slight notice. The
former is designed, not only to support the plant by fixing it in the soil, but '
also to fulfil the functions of a channel for the conveyance of nourishment : it
is therefore furnished with pores, or spongioles, as they are called, from their
resemblance to a sponge, to suck up whatever comes within its reach. It is
found in a variety of forms, and hence its adaptation to a great diversity of
soils and circumstances. We have heard of a willow- tree being dug up and
its head planted where its roots were, and these suffered to spread out in the
air like naked branches. In course of time, the roots became branches, and
the branches roots, or rather, roots rose from the branches beneath the ground,
and branches shot from the roots above. Some roots last one year, others two,
and others, like the shrubs and trees which they produce, have an indefinite
period of existence ; but they all consist of a collection of fibres, composed of
vascular and cellular tissue, without trachea;, or breathing-vessels. The stem
is the grand distributor of the nourishment taken up by the roots, to tho
several parts of the plant. The seat of its vitality is said to be in the point
or spot called the neck, which separates the stem from' the root. If tho root
of a young plant be cut off, it will shoot out afresh ; if even the stem be
taken away, it will be renewed ; but if this part be injured, the plant will
assuredly die.

1079. In accordance with the tlan of this Work, special notices of
culinary vegetables will accompany the various recipes in which they are
spoken of ; but here we cannot resist the opportunity of declaring it as^our
conviction, that he or she who introduces a useful or an ornamental plant into
our island, ought justly to bo considered, to a largo extent, a benefactor to
the country. No one can calculate the benefits which may spring from this
very vegetable, after its qualities have become thoroughly known. If viewed
in no other light, it is pleasing to consider it as bestowing upon us a share of
tho blessings of other climates, and enabling us to participate in the luxury
which a more genial sun has produced.

RECIPES.

CHAPTER XXV.

BOILED ARTICHOKES.

1080. Ingredients. — To each i gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a piece of soda the size of a shilling ; artichokes.

Mode. — Wash the artichokes well in several waters ; see that no
insects remain about them, and trim away the leaves at the bottom.
Cut off the stems and put them into boiling water, to which have been
added salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep the saucepan
uncovered, and let them boil quickly until
tender ; ascertain when they are done by
thrusting a fork in them, or by trying if the
leaves can he easily removed. Take them
out, let them drain for a minute or two5
and serve in a napkin, or with a little
white sauce poured over. A tureen of melted butter should accom-
pany them. This vegetable, unlike any other, is considered better
for being gathered two or three days ; but they must be well soaked
and washed previous to dressing.

Time. — 20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.

Sufficient, — a dish of 5 or 6 for 4 persons.

Seasonable from July to the beginning of Sep-
tember.

The CoirrosiiiE, ok CoiirosiTE Feoweub.— This family is
so extensive, as to oontain nearly a twelfth part of the whole
of the vegetable kingdom. It embraces about 9,000 species,
distributed over almost every country; and new discoveries are
constantly being made and added to the number. Towards the
poles then- numbers diminish, and slightly, also, towards the
equator; but they abound in the tropical and sub-tropical
islands, and in the tracts of continent not far from the sea-
shore. Among esculent vegetables, the Lettuce, Salsify, Scor-
zonera, Cardoon, and Artichoke belong to the family.

EBIED ARTICHOKES.

(Entremets, or Small Dish, to be served with, the Second Course.)

1081. Ingredients. — 5 or 6 artichokes, salt and water: for the
batter, — 5 lb. of flour, a little salt, the yolk of 1 egg, milk.

CAHDOON AETICHOKE.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — Trim and boil the artichokes by recipe No. 1080, and rub
them oyer with lemon-j uice, to keep them white. When, they are
quite tender, take them up, remove the chokes, and divide the bot-
toms ; dip each piece into batter, fry them in hot lard or dripping,
and garnish the dish with crisped parsley. Serve with plain melted
butter.

Time. — 20 minutes to boil the artichokes, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.

Sufficient, — 5 or 6 for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.

A FRENCH MODE OF COOKING ARTICHOKES.

1082. Ingredients. — 5 or 6 artichokes; to each 5 gallon of water
allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, £ teaspoonful of pepper, 1 bunch
of savoury herbs, 2 oz. of butter.

Mode. — Cut the ends of the leaves, as also the stems ; put the
artichokes into boiling water, with the above proportion of salt, pepper,
herbs, and butter ; let them boil quickly until tender, keeping the lid
of the saucepan off, and when the leaves come out easily, they are
cooked enough. To keep them a beautiful green, put a large piece of
cinder into a muslin bag, and let it boil with them. Serve with plain
melted butter.

Time. — 20 to 25 minutes.

Sufficient, — 5 or 6 sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.

ARTICHOKES A L’lTALIENNE.

1083. Ingredients. — 4 or 5 artichokes, salt and butter, about
i pint of good gravy.

Mode. — Trim and cut the artichokes into quarters, and boil them
until tender in water mixed with a little salt and butter. When
done, drain them well, and lay them all round the dish, with the
leaves outside. Have ready some good gravy, highly flavoured with
mushrooms ; reduce it until quite thick, and pour it round the arti-
chokes, and serve.

Time. — 20 to 25 minutes to boil the artichokes.

Sufficient for one side-dish.

Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.

Constihuent Eeofebties or THE Aetichoke. — According to tho analysis of Bra-
conuct, the constituent elements of an artichoke are,— starch 30, albumen 10, uncrystal-
lizuble sugar 148, gum 12, Used oil 1, woody fibre 12, inorganic matter 27, and water 770.

VEGETABLES.

553

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

BOILED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

1084. Ingredients. — To each 5 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt ; artichokes.

Mode. — Wash, peel, and shape the artichokes in a round or oval
form, and put them into a saucepan with
sufficient cold water to cover them, salted in
the above proportion. Let them boil gently
until tender; take them up, drain them, and
serve them in a napkin, or plain, whichever mode is preferred ; send
to table with them a tureen of melted butter or cream sauce, a little
of which may he poured over the artichokes when they are not served
in a napkin.

Time. — About 20 minutes after the water boils.

Average cost, id. per lb.

Sufficient— 10 for a dish for 6 persons.

Seasonable from September to June.

Uses of the Jerusalem Artichoke.— This being a tuberous-rooted plant, with leafy
stems from four- to six feet high, it is alleged that its tops will aiford as much fodder
per acre as a crop of oats, or more, and its roots half as many tubers as an ordinary
crop of potatoes. The tubers, being abundant in. the market-gardens, are to be had at
little more'than the price of potatoes. The fibres of the stems may be separated by
maceration, and manufactured into cordage or cloth ; and this is said to be done in some
parts of the north and west of France, as about Hagenau, where this plant, on the poor
sandy soils, is an object of field culture.

MASHED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.

1085. Ingredients. — To each i gallon of water allow 1 oz. of salt ;
15 or 16 artichokes, 1 oz. butter, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Boil the artichokes as in the preceding recipe until tender ;
drain and press the water from them, and beat them up with a fork.
When thoroughly mashed and free from lumps, put them into a
saucepan with the butter and a seasoning of white pepper and salt ;
keep stirring over the fire until the artichokes are quite hot, and serve.
Time. — About 20 minutes. Average cost, Id. per lb.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from September to June.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES WITH WHITE SAUCE.
(Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a Side-dish.)

1086. Ingredients. — 12 to 15 artichokes, 12 to 15 Brussels sprouts,
i pint of white sauce, No. 538.

Mode. — Peel and cut the artichokes in the shape of a pear ; cut a
piece off the bottom of each, that they may Stand upright in the dish,
and boil them in salt and water until tender. Have ready ■§■ pint of

554

modern Household cookery.

white sauce, made by recipe No. 538 ; dish' the artichokes, pour over
them the sauce, and place between each a fine Brussels sprout : these
should be boiled separately, and not with the artichokes.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average cost , 2d. per lb.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from September to June.

The .T liar haleM: Abctchoke. — This plant is well known, being, for its tubers, cultivated
not only as a garden vegetable, but also as an agricultural crop. 13y ruanv it is much
esteemed ns an esculent, when cooked in various ways ; and the domesticated animals
eat both the fresh foliage and the tubers with great relish. By some, they arc not only
considered nourishing, but even fattening.

BOILED ASPABAGUS.

1087. Ingredients. — To each § gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt ; asparagus.

Mode. — Asparagus should be dressed as soon as possible after it is
cut, although it may be kept for a day or two by putting the stalks
into cold water ; yet, to be good, like every other vegetable, it cannot
be cooked too fresh. Scrape the white part of the stems, beginning
from the head, and throw them into cold water ; then tie them into

ASPABAGUS ON TOAST.

ASPABAGUS TONGS.

bundles of about 20 each, keeping the heads all one way, and cut the
stalks evenly, that they may all be the same length ; put them into
boiling water, with salt in the above proportion ; keep them boiling
quickly until tender, with the saucepan uncovered. When the aspa-
ragus is done, dish it upon toast, which should be dipped in the water it
was cooked in, and leave the white ends outwards each way, with the
points meeting in the middle. Serve with a tureen of melted butter.

Time. — 15 to 18 minutes after the water boils.

Average cost, in

ASPABAGUS.

full season, 2s. 6d. the 100 heads.

Sufficient. — Allow about 50 heads for 4 or 5
persons.

Seasonable. — May be had, forced, from January,
but cheapest in May, June, and July.

ASPABAGUS.— This plant belongs to the variously-featured
family of the order Liliacecc, which, in the temperate regions of
both "hemispheres, are most abundant, and, between the tropics,
gigantic in size and arborescent in form. Asparagus is a native
of Great Britain, and is found on various parts ot the seacoast,
and in the fens of Lincolnshire. At Kvnarve Cove, m Cornwall,
there is an island called “ Asparagus Island,” from the abun-
dance in which it is there found. The uses to which the young'
shoots are applied, and the manure in which they are cultivated
in order to bring them to the highest state of excellence, have
been a study with many kitchen-gardeners.

VEGETABLES.-

555

ASPARAGUS PEAS.

(Entremets, or to be served as a Side-dish with the Second Course.)

1088. Ingredients. — 100 heads of asparagus, 2 oz. of butter, a small
bunch of parsley, 2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump of sugar, the yolks
of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt.

Mode. — Carefully scrape the asparagus, cut it into pieces of an
equal size, avoiding that which is in the least hard or tough, and
throw them into cold water. Then boil the asparagus in salt and
water until three-parts done ; take it out, drain, and place it on a
cloth to dry the moisture away from it. Put it into a stewpan
with the butter, parsley, and onions, and shake over a brisk lire for
10 minutes. Dredge in a little flour, add the sugar, and moisten with
boiling water. When boiled a short time and reduced, take out the
■parsley and onions, thicken with the yolks of 2 eggs beaten with the
cream ; add a seasoning of salt, and, when the whole is on the point
of simmering, serve. Make the sauce sufficiently thick to adhere to
the vegetable,.

Time. — Altogether, | hour. Average cost, Is. 6 d. a pint.

Seasonable in May, June, and July.

Medicinal Uses oe Aspabagus. — This plant not only acts as a wholesome and
nutritious vegetable, but also as a diuretic, aperient, and deobstruent. The chemical
analysis of its juice discovers its composition to be a peculiar erystallizable principle,
called asparagin, albumen, mannite, malic acid, and some salts. Thours says, the
cellular tissue contains a substance similar to sago. The berries are capable of under-
going vinous fermentation, and affording alcohol by distillation. . In their unripe state
they possess the same properties as the roots, and probably in a much higher degree.

ASPARAGUS PUDDING.

(A delicious Dish., to be served with the Second Course.)

1089. Ingredients. — § pint of asparagus peas, 4 eggs, 2 table-
spoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful of very finely minced ham, 1 oz. of
butter, pepper and salt to taste, milk.

Mode. — Cut up the nice green tender parts of asparagus, about the
size of peas ; put them into a basin with the eggs, which should he
well beaten, and the flour, ham, butter, pepper, and salt. Mix all these *
ingredients well together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make
the pudding of the consistency of thick batter ; put it into a pint
buttered mould, tie it down tightly with a floured cloth, place it in
boiling water , and let it boil for 2 hours ; turn it out of the mould on
to a hot dish, and pour plain melted butter round, but not over, the
pudding. Green peas pudding may be made in exactly the same
manner, substituting peas for the asparagus.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 d. per pint.

Seasonable in May, J une, and J uly.

MODERN noOSEUOLD COOKERY.

55’j

BOILED FRENCH BEANS.

1090. Ingredients. — To each i gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a very small piece of soda.

Mode. — This vegetable should always be eaten young, as, when
allowed to grow too long, it tastes stringy and tough when cooked.

Cut off the heads and tails, and a thin strip on
each side of the beans, to remove the strings.
Then divide each bean into 4 or 6 pieces, ac-
cording to size, cutting them lengthways in a
slanting direction, and, as they are cut, put
them into cold water, with a small quantity of
salt dissolved in it. Have ready a saucepan of
boiling water, with salt and soda in the above
proportion ; put in the beans, keep them boiling
quickly, with the lid uncovered, and be careful
that they do not get smoked. When tender,
which may be ascertained by their sinking to
the bottom of the saucepan, take them up, throw them into a colander ;
and when drained, dish and serve with plain melted butter. When
very young, beans are sometimes served wrhole : when they are thus
dressed, their colour and flavour are much better preserved ; but the
more general way of dressing them is to cut them into thin strips.

Time. — Yery young beans, 10 to 12 minutes; moderate size, 15 to
20 minutes, after the water boils.

Average cost, in full season, Is. id. a peck ; but, when forced, very
expensive.

Sufficient. — Allow i peck for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from the middle of July to the end of September ; but
may be had, forced, from February to the beginning of June.

FRENCH MODE OF COOKING FRENCH BEANS.

1091. Ingredients. — A quart of French beans, 3 oz. of fresh butter,
pepper and salt to taste, the juice of h lemon.

Mode. — Cut and boil the beans by the preceding recipe, and when
tender, put them into a stewpan, and shake over the fire, to dry away
the moisture from the beans. When quite dry and hot, add the
butter, pepper, salt, and lemon-juice; keep moving the stewpan,
without using a spoon, as that would break the beans ; and when
the butter is melted, and all is thoroughly hot, serve. If the butter
should not mix well, add a tablespoonful of gravy, and serve very
quickly.

SCARLET HUNKER.

VEGETABLES,

557

Time .—About j hour to boil the beans ; 10 minutes to shake them
over the fire.

Average cost, in full season, about Is. 4 cl. a peck.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from the middle of J uly to the end of September.

BOILED BROAD OR WINDSOR BEANS.

1092. Ingredients. — To each A gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt ; beans.

Mode. — This is a favourite vegetable with many persons, but to be
nice, should be young and freshly gathered. - After
shelling the beans, put them into boiling water,
salted in the above proportion, and let them boil
rapidly until tender. Drain them well in a colan-
der ; dish, and serve with them separately a tureen
of parsley and butter. Boiled bacon should always
accompany this vegetable, but the beans should
be cooked separately. It is usually served with the
beans laid round, and the parsley and butter in
a tureen. Beans also make an excellent garnish
to a ham, and when used for this purpose, if very
old, should have their skins removed.

Time. — Yery young beans, 15 minutes; when of
20 to 25 minutes, or longer.

Average cost, unshelled, 6d. per peck.

Sufficient. — Allow one peek for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable in July and August.

Nutbiiiye Peopeeties op the Bean. — The produce of beans in meal is, like that of

eas, more in proportion to the grain than in any of the cereal grasses. A bushel of

eans is supposed to yield fourteen pounds more of flour than a bushel of oats ; and a
bushel of peas eighteen pounds more, or, according to some, twenty pounds. A thou-
sand parts of bean flour were found by Sir H. Davy to yield 570 parts of nutritive
matter, of which 426 were mucilage or starch, 103 gluten, and 41 extract, or matter
rendered insoluble during the process.

BROAD BEANS A LA POULETTE.

1093. Ingredients. — 2 pints of broad beans, A pint of stock or
broth, a small bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, a small lump
of sugar, the yolk of 1 egg, \ pint of cream, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Procure some young and freshly-gathered beans, a,nd shell
sufficient to make 2 pints ; boil them, as in the preceding recipe, until
nearly done ; then drain them and put them into a. stewpan, with the
stock, finely-minced herbs, and sugar. Stew the ljeans until perfectly
tender, and the liquor has dried a%ay a little ; then beat up the yolk
of an egg with the cream, add this to the beans,, let the whole get

BBOAD BEAN.

a moderate size,

558

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

thoroughly hot, and when on the point of simmering, serve. Should
the beans be very large, the skin should be removed previously to
boiling them.

Time.— 10 minutes to boil the beans, 15 minutes to stew them in the
stock.

Average cost, unshelled, 6 cl. per peek.

Seasonable in July and August.

Ohigin AND Vambttes or the Bean.—' This valuable plant is said to be a native or
Egypt) but, like other plants which have been domesticated, its origin is uncertain. It
has been cultivated in Europe aud'Asia from time immemorial, and has been long known
in Britain. Its varieties may be included under two general heads, — the white, or garden
beans, and the grey, or field beans. Of the former, sown in the fields, the mazagan and
long-pod are almost the only sorts ; of the latter, those known as the horse-bean, the small
or ticks', and the prolific of Heligoland, are the principal sorts. New varieties are procured
in the same manner as in other plants.

BOILED BEETROOT.

iog4. Ingredients.— Beetroot ; boiling water.

Mode. —"Whan large, young, and juicy, this vegetable makes
a very excellent addition to winter salads, and may easily be con-
verted into an economical and quickly-made pickle. ( See Ho. 369.)
Beetroot is more frequently served cold than hot : when the latter
mode is preferred, melted butter should be sent to table with it.
It may also be stewed with button onions, or boiled and served
with roasted onions. W ash the beets thoroughly ; but do not prick
or break the skin before they are cooked, or they would lose their
beautiful colour in boiling. Put them into boiling water, and let
them boil until tender, keeping them well covered. If to be served
hot, remove the peel quickly, cut the beetroot into thick slices, and
send to table melted butter. For salads, pickle, &c., let the root cool,
then peel, and cut it into slices.

Time. — Small beetroot, If to 2 hours ; large, 2 1 to 3 hours.

Average cost, in full season, 2d. each.

Seasonable. — May be had at any time.

Beetboot. — The geographical distribution of the order
Saltworts ( Saliolacecc ), to which beetroot belongs, is most
common in extra-tropical and temperate regions, where
they are common weeds, frequenting waste places, among
rubbish, and on marshes by the seashore. In the tropics
they are rare. They are characterized by the large quan-
tity of mucilage, sugar, starch, and alkaline salts which are
found in them. Many of them are used as potherbs, and
some are emetic ana vermifuge in their medicinal pro-
perties. The root of garden or red beet is exceedingly
wholesome and nutritious, and Dr. Lyon Playfair has
recommended that a good brown bread may be made by
rasping down this root with an equal quantity of flour. Ho
says that the average quality of flour contains about 12 per
cent, of azotized principles adapted for the formation of
flesh, and the average quality of beet contains about 2 per
beetboot. cent, of the same materials.

VEGETABLES.

559

BOILED BBOCOLI.

1095. Ingredients. — To each 2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt ; brocoli.

Mode. — Strip off the dead outside leaves, and the inside ones cut
off level with the flower ; cut off the stalk close at the bottom, and
put the brocoli into cold salt and water, with
the heads downwards. When they have re-
mained in this for about f hour, and they are
perfectly free from insects, put them into a
saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above
proportion, and keep them boiling quickly over a brisk fire, with the
saucepan uncovered. Take them up with a slice the moment they
are done ; drain them well, and serve with a tureen of melted butter,
a little of which should be poured over the brocoli. If left in the
water after it is done, it will break, its colour will be spoiled, and its

BOILED BEOCOLI.

crispness gone.

Time. — Small brocoli, 10 to 15 minutes ; large one,
20 to 25 minutes.

Average cost, 2d. each.

Sufficient, — 2 for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from October to March ; plentiful in Feb-
ruary and March.

The Kohl-Rabi, ob Ttrniap-CABBAGE.— This variety presents a
singular development, inasmuch as the stem swells out like a large
turnip on the surface of the ground, the leaves shooting from it all
round, and the top being surmounted by a cluster of leaves issuing
from it. Although not generally grown as a garden vegetable, if
used when young and tender, it is wholesome, nutritious, and very
palatable.

BEOCOLI.

BOILED BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

1096. Ingredients. — To each ^gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt ; a very small piece of soda.

Mode. — Clean the sprouts from insects, nicely wash them, and pick
off any dead or discoloured leaves from the outsides ; put them into a
saucepan of boiling water, with salt and soda in the above proportion ;
keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly over a brisk fire
until tender ; drain, dish, and serve with a tureen of melted butter,
or with a maitre d ’hotel sauce poured over them. Another mode of
serving is, when they are dished, to stir in about l£ oz. of butter and
a seasoning of pepper and salt. They must, however, be sent to table
very quickly, as, being so very small, this vegetable soon cools. Where
the cook is very expeditious, this vegetable, when cooked, may be

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

560

arranged on the dish in the form of a pineapple, and, so served, has
a very pretty appearance.

Time. — From 9 to 12 minutes after the water boils.

Average cost, Is. 4 d. per peck.

Sufficient— Allow between 40 and 50 for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from November to March.

Savoys and Brussels Sprouts— When the Green Kale, or Borecole, has been
advanced a step further in the path of improvement, it assumes the headed or hearting
character, with blistered leaves ; it is then known by the name of Savoys and Brussels
Sprouts. Another of its headed forms, but with smooth glaucous leaves, is the cultivated
Cabbage of our gardens (the Borecole oleracea eapitula of science) ; and all its varieties
of green, red, dwarf, tall, early, late, round, conical, flat, and all the forms into which
it is possible to put it.

TO BOIL YOUNG GREENS OR SPROUTS.

1097. Ingredients. — To each i gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tahlespoonful of salt ; a very small piece of soda.

Mode. — Pick away all the dead leaves, and wash the greens well
in cold water ; drain them in a colander, and put them
into fast-boiling water, with salt and soda in the above
proportion. Keep them boiling quickly, with the lid
uncovered, until tender; and the moment they are
done, take them up, or their colour will be spoiled ;
when well drained, serve. The great art in cooking
greens properly, and to have them a good colour, is to
put them into plenty of fast-boiling water, to let them
boil very quickly, and to take them up the moment
they become tender.

Brussels Time. — Brocoli sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes; young

sprouts. greens, 10 to 12 minutes ; sprouts, 12 minutes, after the
water boils.

Seasonable. — Sprouts of various kinds may be had all the year.

Green Kale, or Borecole. — When Colewort, or Wild Cabbage, is brought into a
state of cultivation, its character becomes greatly improved, although it still retains the
loose open leaves, and in this form it is called Green Kale, or Borecole. The scientific
name is Borecole oleracea acephala, and of it there are many varieties, both as regards
the form and colour of the leaves, as well as the height which the plants attain. We may
observe, that among them, are included the Thousand-headed, and the Cow or Tree
Cabbage.

BOILED CABBAGE.

1098. Ingredients. — To each i gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tahlespoonful of salt ; a very small piece of soda.

Mode.— Pick off all the dead outside leaves, cut off as much of the
stalk as possible, and cut the cabbages across twice, at the stalk end ;
if they should be very large, quarter them. Wash them well in cold

VEGETABLES.

561

water, plaoe them in a colander, and drain ; then put them into
plenty of fast-boiling water, to which have been added salt and soda
in the above proportions. Stir them down once or twice in the water,
keep the pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly until tender. The
instant they are done, take them up into a colander, place a plate
over them, let them thoroughly drain, dish, and serve.

- Time. — Large cabbages, or savoys, § to § hour, young summer
^cabbage, 10 to 12 minutes, after the water boils.

Average cost, 2d. each in full season.

Sufficient, — 2 large ones for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable. — Cabbages and sprouts of various kinds at any time.

The Cabbage Tribe ; theib Origin.— Of all the tribes of the Cruci/erce this is by far
the most important. Its scientific name is Brassicece, and it contains a collection of
plants which, both in themselves and their products, occupy a prominent position in
agriculture, commerce, and domestic economy. On the cliffs of Dover, and in many
places on the coasts of Dorsetshire, Cornwall, and Yorkshire, there grows a wild plant,
with variously-indented, much-waved, and loose spreading leaves, of a sea-green colour,
and large yellow flowers. In spring, the leaves of this plant are collected by the inha-
bitants, who, after boiling them in two waters, to remove the saltness, use them as a
vegetable along with their meat. This is the Brassica oleracea of science, the Wild
Cabbage, or Colewort, from which have originated all the -varieties of Cabbage, Cauli-
flower, Greens, and Broeoli.

STEWED RED CABBAGE.

iogg. Ingredients. — 1 red cabbage, a small slice of bam, § oz. of
fresh butter, 1 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 gill of vinegar, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar.

Mode. — Out the cabbage into very thin slices, put it into a stewpan,
with the ham cut in dice, the butter, 4 pint of stock, and the vinegar ;
cover the pan closely, and let it stew for 1 hour. When it is very
tender, add the remainder of the stock, a seasoning of salt and pepper,
and the pounded sugar ; mix all well together, stir over the fire until
nearly all the liquor is dried away, and serve. Fried sausages are
usually sent to table with this dish : they should be laid round and
on the cabbage, as a garnish.

Time. — Eather more than 1 hour. ' Average cost, id. each.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from September to January.

The Wild Cabbage, or Colewort. — This plant, as it is found on the sea-cliffs of
England, presents us with the origin of the cabbage tribe in its simplest and normal
form. In this state it is the true Collet, or Colewort, although the name is now applied
to any young cabbage which has a loose and open heart.

BOILED CARROTS.

noo. Ingredients.— To each i gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt ; carrots.

Mode. Cut off the green tops, wash and scrape the carrots, and

2 o

5C2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

should, there he any black specks, remove them. If very largo, cut
them in halves, divide them lengthwise into four pieces, and put
them into boiling water, salted in the above proportion ; let them
boil until tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork into
them : dish, and serve very hot. This vegetable is an indispensable
accompaniment to boiled beef. When thus served, it is usually
boiled with the beef ; a few carrots are placed round the dish as a
garnish, and the remainder sent to table in a vegetable-dish. Young
carrots do not require nearly so much boiling, nor should they be
divided : these make a nice addition to stewed veal, &c.

Time. — Large carrots, If to 2j hours ; young
ones, about h hour.

Average cost, 6 cl. to 8d. per hunch of 18.
Sufficient, — 4 large carrots for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable. — lroung carrots from April to June,
old ones at any time.

Origin- op tee Carrot. — In its wild state, this vegetable
is found plentifully in Britain, both in cultivated lands and by
waysides, and is known by the name of birds-nest, from its
umbels of fruit becoming incurved from a hollow cup, like a
birds-nest. In this state its root is whitish, slender, and hard,
with an acrid, disagreeable taste, and a strong aromatic smell,
and was formerly used as an aperient. When cultivated, it
is reddish, thick, fleshy, with a pleasant odour, and a peculiar,
sweet, mucilaginous taste. The carrot is said by naturalists
not to contain much nourishing matter, and, generally speak-
ing, is somewhat difficult of digestion.

CAEEOTS.

TO DRESS CARROTS IE THE GERMAN WAT.

not. Ingredients. — 8 large carrots, 3 oz. of butter, salt to taste,
a very little grated, nutmeg, 1 tablespoonful of finely-minced parsley,
1 dessertspoonful of minced onion, rather more than 1 pint of weak
stock or broth, 1 tablespoonful of flour.

Mode. — Wash and scrape the 'carrots, and cut them into rings of
about f inch in thickness. Put the butter into a stewpan ; when
it is melted, lay in the carrots, with salt, nutmeg, parsley, and
onion in the above proportions. Toss the stewpan over the fire for
a few minutes, and when the carrots are well saturated with the
butter, pour in the stock, and simmer gently until they are nearly
tender. Then put into another stewpan a small piece of butter ; dredge
in about a tablespoonful of flour ; stir this over the fire, and when of
a nice brown colour, add the liquor that the carrots have been boiling
in ; let this just boil up, pour it over the carrots in the other stewpan,
and let them finish simmering until quite tender. Serve very hot.

VEGETABLES.

563

This vegetable, dressed as above, is a favourite accompaniment of
roast pork, sausages, &e. &c.

Time. — About $ hour. Average cost, 6 d. to 8d. per bunch of 18.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable.— Young carrots from April to dune, old ones at any-
time.

Constituents op the Caeeot. — These are crystallizable and uncrystallizable sugar,
a little staroh, extractive, gluten, albumen, volatile oil, vegetable jelly, or pectin, saline
matter, malic acid, and a peculiar crystallizable ruby-red neuter principle, without
odour or taste, called carotin. This vegetable jelly, or pectin, so named from its singular
property of gelatinizing, is considered by some as another form of gum or mucilage,
combined with vegetable acid. It exists more or less in all vegetables, and is especially
abundant in those roots and fruits from which jellies are prepared.

STEWED CARROTS.

lioa. Tnubedients.— 7 or 8 large carrots, 1 teacupful of broth,
pepper and salt to taste, h teacupful of cream, thickening of butter
and flour.

Mode. — Scrape the carrots nicely ; half-boil, and slice them into a
stewpan ; add the broth, pepper and salt, and cream ; simmer till
tender, and be careful the carrots are not broken. A few minutes
before serving, mix a little flour with about 1 oz. of butter ; thicken
the gravy with this; let it just boil up, and serve.

Time. — About f hour to parboil the carrots, about 20 minutes to
cook them after they are sliced.

Average cost, 6 d: to 8 d. per bunch of 18.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any
time.

Huteitive Properties op the Carrot. — Sir H. Davy ascertained the nutritive
matter of the carrot to amount to ninety-eight parts in one thousand j of which ninety-
five are sugar and three are starch. It is used in winter and spring in the dairy to give
colour and flavour to butter ; and it is excellent in stews, haricots, soups, and, when
boiled whole, with salt beef. In the distillery, owing to the great proportion of sugar
in its composition, it yields more spirit than the potato. The usual quantity is twelve
gallons per ton.

SLICED CARROTS.

(Entremets, or to be served with, the Second Course, as a Side-dish.)

1103. Ingbedients. — 5 or 6 large carrots, a large lump of sugar,
1 pint of weak stock, 3 oz. of fresh butter, salt to taste.

Mode. — Scrape and wash the carrots, cut them into slices of an
equal size, and boil them in salt and water, until half done ; drain
them well, put them into a stewpan with the sugar and stock, and
let them boil over a brisk fire. When reduced to a glaze, add the

2 0 2

5G4

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERS'.

fresh butter and a seasoning of salt; shake the stewpan about well,
and when the butter is well mixed with the carrots, serve. There
should be no sauce in the dish when it comes to table, but it should
all adhere to the carrots.

Time. — Altogether, § hour.

Average cost, 6d. to 8 d. per bunch of 18.

Sufficient for 1 dish.

Seasonable. — Young carrots from April to June, old ones at any
time.

The Seed op the Caekot— In order to save the seed of carrots, the plan is, to
select annually the most perfect and best-shaped roots in the taking-up season, and
either preserve them in sand in a cellar till spring, or plant them immediately in an
open airy part of the garden, protecting them with litter during severe frost, or earthing
them over, and uncovering them in March following. The seed is in no danger from
being injured by any other plant. In August it is fit to gather, and is best preserved on
the stalks till wanted.

BOILED CABBIE LOWE E.

BOILED CADLIELOWEBS.

1104. Ingredients. — To each \ gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.

Mode. — Choose cauliflowers that are close and white ; trim off the
decayed outside leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom.

Open the flower a little in places to remove the in-
sects, which generally are found about the stalk, and
let the cauliflowers lie in salt
and water for an hour previous
to dressing them, with their
heads downwards : this will
effectually draw out all the

vermin. Then put them into fast-boiling water, with
the addition of salt in the above proportion, and let
them boil briskly over a good fire, keeping the sauce-
pan uncovered. The water should be well skimmed ;
and, when the cauliflowers are tender, take them up with a slice ;
let them drain, and, if large enough, place them upright in the
dish. Serve with plain melted butter, a little of which may he
poured over the flower.

Time. — Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes, large one, 20 to 25
minutes, after the water boils.

Average cost, for large cauliflowers, 6d. each.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 large cauliflower for 3 persons.

Seasonable from the beginning of J une to the end of September.

CATJLIFLOIVEE.

VEGETABLES.

5G5

CAULIFLOWERS A LA SAUCE BLANCHE.

(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)

1105. Ingredients. — 3 cauliflowers, -s pint of sauce blanche, or
French melted butter, No. 378 ; 3 oz. of butter ; salt and water.

Mode. — Cleanse the cauliflowers as in the preceding recipe, and
cut the stalks off flat at the bottom; boil them until tender in
salt and water, to which the above proportion of butter has
been added, and be careful to take them up the moment they are
done, or they will break, and the appearance of the dish will be
spoiled. Drain them well, and dish them in the shape of a large
cauliflower. Have ready i pint of sauce, made by recipe No. 378,
pour it over the flowers, and serve hot and quickly.

Time— Small cauliflowers, 12 to 15 minutes, large ones, 20 to 25
minutes, after the water boils.

Average cost, — large cauliflowers, in full season, G>d. each.

Sufficient,— l large cauliflower for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from the beginning of June to the end of September.

CAVirFLOWEE and BitoCOLi. — These are only forms of the wild Cabbage in its culti-
vated state. They are both well known ; but we may observe, that the purple and white
Broeoli are only varieties of the Cauliflower.

CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.)

it 06. Ingredients. — 2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather more than \ pint
of white sauce No. 378, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese,
2 oz. of fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.

Mode. — Cleanse and boil the cauliflowers by recipe No. 1104, and
drain them and dish them with the flowers standing upright. Have
ready the above proportion of white sauce ; pour sufficient of it over
the cauliflowers just to cover the top ; sprinkle over this some rasped
Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs, and drop on these the butter,
which should be melted, but not oiled. Brown with a salamander, or
before the fire, and pour round, but not over, the flowers the remainder
of the sauce, with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated
Parmesan cheese.

Time. — Altogether, i hour. Average cost, for large cauliflowers,

6 d. each.

Sufficient, — 3 small cauliflowers for 1 dish.

Seasonable from the beginning of June to the end of September.

5GG

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

CELERY.

1107. With a good heart, and nicely blanched, this vegetable is
generally eaten raw, and is usually served
with the cheese. Let the roots be washed free
from dirt, all the decayed and outside leaves
being cut off, preserving as much of the stalk as
possible, and all specks or blemishes being care-
fully removed. Should the celery be large, divide
it lengthwise into quarters, and place it, root
downwards, in a celery-glass, which should be
rather more than half filled with water. The
top leaves may be curled, by shredding them in
narrow strips with the point of a clean skewer, at
a distance of about 4 inches from the top.
Average cost, 2ch per head.

Sufficient. — Allow 2 heads for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from October to April.

Note. — This vegetable is exceedingly useful for flavouring soups, sauces, ke.,
and makes a very nice addition to winter salad.

STEWED CELERY A LA CREME.

1108. Ingredients. — 6 heads of celery; to each 1 gallon of water
allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, £ pint
of cream.

Mode. — Wash the celery thoroughly ; trim, and boil it in salt and
water until tender. Put the cream and pounded mace into a stewpan ;
shake it over the fire until the cream thickens, dish the celery, pour
over the sauce, and serve.

Time. — Large heads of celery, 25 minutes ; small ones, 15 to 20
minutes.

Average cost, 2d. per head.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from October to April.

Alexanders. — This plant is the Smyrnium olustralum of science, and is used in this
country in the same way iu which celery is. It is a native of Great Britain, and is found
in its wild state near the seacoast. It received its name from the Italian “ herba
Alexandrine,” and is supposed to have been originally brought irom Alexandria; but, be
this as it may, its cultivation is now almost entirely abandoned.

STEWED CELERY (with White Sauce).

1109. Ingredients. — 6 heads of celery, 1 oz. of butter; to each

VEGETABLES.

5G7

4 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, I pint of white
sauce, No. 537 or 538.

Mode. — Have ready sufficient boiling water just to cover the celery,
with salt and butter iu the above proportion. Wash the celery well ;
cut off the decayed outside leaves, trim away the green tops, and
shape the root into a point ; put It into the boiling water ; let it boil
rapidly until tender ; then take it out, drain well, place it upon a
dish, and pour over about i pint of white sauce, made by either
of the recipes No. 537 or 538. It may also be plainly boiled as
above, placed on toast, and melted butter poured over, the same as
asparagus is dished.

Time. — Large heads of celery, 25 minutes, smal
ones, 15 to 20 minutes, after the water boils.

Average cost, 2d. per head.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from October to April.

Origin op Celeey. — In the marshes and ditches of this country
there is to be found a very common plant, known by the name of
Smallage. This is the wild form of celery; but, by being subjected
to cultivation, it loses its acrid nature, and becomes mild and
sweet. In its natural state, it has a peculiar rank, coarse taste
and smell, and its root was reckoned by the ancients as one of
the “ five greater aperient roots.” There is a variety of this in
which the root becomes turnip-shaped and large. It is called
Celeries, and is extensively used by the Germans, and preferred
by them to celery. In a raw state, this plant does not suit weak
stomachs; cooked, it is less difficult of digestion, although a large quantity should not be
taken.

IT.

mo. Ingredients.— 6 heads of celery, i pint of white stock
or weak broth, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, thickening of butter and
flour, 1 blade of pounded mace, a very little grated nutmeg ; pepper
and salt to taste.

Mode. — Wash the celery, strip off the outer leaves, and cut it into
lengths of about 4 inches. Put these into a saucepan, with the
broth, and stew till tender, which will be in from 20 to 25 minutes ;
then add the remaining ingredients, simmer altogether for 4 or 5
minutes, pour into a dish, and serve. It may be garnished with
sippets, of toasted bread.

Time— Altogether, | hour. Average cost, 2d. per head.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from October to April.

Note.— By cutting the celery into smaller pieces, by stewing it a little
longer, and, when done, by pressing it through a sieve, the above stew may
bo converted into a purdo of celery.

568

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

TO DBESS CUCUMBEHS.

mi. Ingredients.— 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, i tablespoonfuls
of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste ; cucumber.

Mode. Pare the cucumber, cut it equally into very thin slices, and
commence cutting from the thick end ; if commenced at the stalk, the
cucumber will most likely have an exceedingly bitter taste, far from
agreeable. Put the slices into a dish, sprinkle over salt and pepper,
and pour over oil and vinegar in the above
proportion ; turn the cucumber about, and it
is ready to serve. This is a favourite accom-
paniment to boiled salmon, is a nice addition to
all descriptions of salads, and makes a pretty garnish to lobster salad.

Average cost, when scarce, Is. to 2s. 6 d.;
when cheapest, may be had for id. each.

Seasonable. — Forced from the beginning of
March to the end of June ; in full season in
July, August, and September.

SLICED CUCUMBEES.

Geographical Distribution of Cucumbers.— This
family is not known in the frigid zone, is somewhat rare
in the temperate, but in the tropical and warmer regions
throughout the world they are abundant. They are most
plentiful in the continent of Hindostan ; but in America
are not near so plentiful. Many of the kinds supply
cucumber. useful articles of consumption for food, and others are

actively medicinal in their virtues. Generally speaking,
delicate stomachs should avoid this plant, for it is cold and indigestible.

CUCTJMBEES A LA POTJLETTE.

m2. Ingredients. — 2 or 3 cucumbers, salt and vinegar, 2 oz. of
butter, flour, | pint of broth, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a lump
of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper to taste.

Mode.— Pare and cut the cucumbers into slices of an equal thick-
ness, and let them remain in a pickle of salt and vinegar for h hour ;
then drain them in a cloth, and put them into a stewpan with the
butter. Fry them over a brisk fire, but do not brown them, and then
dredge over them a little flour ; add the broth, skim off all the fat,
which will rise to the surface, and boil gently until the gravy is
somewhat reduced ; but the cucumber should not be broken. Stir
in the yolks of the eggs, add the parsley, sugar, and a seasoning of
pepper and salt ; bring the whole to the point of boiling, and serve.

Time. — Altogether, 1 hour.

Average cost, when cheapest, id. each.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasojiable in July, August, and September ; but may be had, forced,
from the beginning of March.

VEGETABLES.

569

FRIED CUCUMBERS.

1113. Ingredients. — 2 or 3 cucumbers, pepper and salt to taste,
flour, oil or butter.

Mode. — Pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equal
thickness, commencing to slice from the thick, and not the stalk end
of the cucumber. Wipe the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them with
flour, and put them into a pan of boiling oil or butter ; keep turning
them about until brown; lift them out of the pan, let them drain,
and serve, piled lightly in a dish. These will be found a great im-
provement to rump-steak : they should be placed on a dish with the
steak on the top .

Time. — 5 minutes. Average cost, when cheapest, 4c?. each.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable. — Forced from the beginning' of March to the end of
June ; in full season in July and August.

Pbopeeties and Uses oe the Cvcuebits. — The common cucumber is the C. sativ\is
of science, and although the whole of the family have a similar action in, the animal
economy, yet there are some which present us with great anomalies. The roots of those
which are perennial contain, besides fecula, which is their base, a resinous, acrid, and
bitter principle. The fruits of this family, however, have in general a sugary taste, and
are more or less dissolving and perfumed, as we find in the melons, gourds, cucumbers,
vegetable-marrows, and squashes. But these are slightly laxative if partaken of largely.
In tropical countries, this order furnishes the inhabitants with a large portion of their
food, which, even in the most arid deserts and most barren islands, is of the finest
quality. In China, Cashmere, and Persia, they are cultivated on the lakes on the
floating collections of weeds common in these localities. In India they are everywhere
abundant, either in a cultivated or wild state, and the seeds of all the family are sweet
and mucilaginous.

STEWED CUCUMBERS.

1114- Ingredients. — 3 large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather more
than A pint of good brown gravy.

Mode. — Cut the cucumbers lengthwise the size of the dish they are
intended to be served in ; empty them of the seeds, and put them into
boiling water with a little salt, and let them simmer for 5 minutes ;
then take them out, place them in another stewpan, with the gravy,
and let them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender.
Should these be bitter, add a lump of sugar ; carefully dish them,
skim the sauce, pour over the cucumbers, and serve.

Time. — Altogether, 20 minutes.

Average cost, when cheapest, le?. each.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable in June, July, and August; but may be had, forced,
from the beginning of March.

The Chate.— This cucumber is a native of Egypt and Arabia, and produces a fruit of
almost the same substance as that of the Melon. In Egypt it is esteemed by the upper
class natives, as well as by Europeans, as the most pleasant fruit they have.

570

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

STEWED CUCUMBERS WITH ONIONS.

1115. Ingredients. — 6 cucumbers, 3 moderate-sized onions, not
quite 1 pint of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of
2 eggs, a very little grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Pare and slice the cucumbers, take out the seeds, and cut
the onions into thin slices ; put these both into a stewpan, with the
stock, and let them boil for 5 hour or longer, should the cucumbers
be very large. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs ; stir these into the sauce ;
add the cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg ; bring it to the point of
boiling, and serve. Do not allow the sauce to boil, or it will curdle.
This is a favourite dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump-steaks, &c.

Time. — Altogether, 20 minutes.

Average cost, when cheapest, 4 d. each.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable in July, August, and September ; but may be had, forced,
from the beginning of March.

The Melon. — This is another species of the cucumber, and is highly esteemed for
its rich and delicious fruit. It was introduced to this country from Jamaica, in 1570;
since which period it has continued to be cultivated. It was formerly called the Musk
Melon,

ENDIVE.

1116. This vegetable, so beautiful in appearance, makes an excellent
addition to winter salad, when lettuces and other salad herbs are not
obtainable. It is usually placed in the centre
of the dish, and looks remarkably pretty with
slices of beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and curled
celery placed round it, so that the colours con-
trast nicely. In preparing it, carefully wash
and cleanse it free from insects, which are gene-
rally found near the heart ; remove any decayed
or dead leaves, and dry it thoroughly by shaking
in a cloth. This vegetable may also be served
hot, stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter ;
but when dressed thus, the sauce it is stewed
in should not be very highly seasoned, as that
would destroy and overpower the llavour of
the vegetable.

Average cost, id. per head.

Sufficient,— 1 head for a salad for 4 persons.

Seasonable from November to March.

Endive.— This is the C. endivium of science, and is much used as a salad. It belongs
to the family of the Composiia:, with Chicory, common Goats-beard, and others of the

ENDIVE.

VEGETABLES.

571

same genus. Withering states, that before the steins of the common Goats-heard shoot
up, the roots, boiled like asparagus, have the same llavour, and are nearly as nutritious.
We are also informed by Villars that the children in Dauphind universally eat the stems
aud leaves of the young plant before the flowers appear, with great avidity. The fresh
juice of these tender herbs is said to be the best solvent of bile,

STEWED ENDIVE.

1117. Increments. — 6 heads of endive, salt and water, 1 pint of
broth, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonfiil of lemon-juice,
a small lump of sugar.

Mode. — Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove
the green part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightly
salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes ; then take it out, drain it till
there is no water remaining, and chop it very fine. Put it into a
stewpan with the broth ; add a little salt and a lump of sugar, and
boil until the endive is perfectly tender. When done, which may he
ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add
a thickening of butter and flour and the lemon-juice : let the sauce
boil up, and serve.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.

Average cost, Id. per head.

Sufficient for 3 or‘4 persons.

Seasonable from November to March.

ENDIVE A LA ERANCAISE.

1118. Ingredients. — 6 heads of endive, 1 pint of broth, 3 oz. of
fresh butter ; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.

Mode. — Wash and boil the endive as in the preceding recipe ; chop
it rather fine, and put into a stewpan with the broth ; boil over a
brisk fire until the sauce is all reduced ; then put in the butter, pepper,
salt, and grated nutmeg (the latter must be very sparingly used) ;
mix all well together, bring it to the boiling point, and serve
very hot.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.

Average cost, Id. per head.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from November to March.

TO BOIL HARICOTS BLANCS, or WHITE HARICOT

BEANS.

mg. Ingredients. — 1 quart of white haricot beans, 2 quarts of soft
water, 1 oz. of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode.— Put the beans into cold water, and let them soak from 2 to

572 MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

4 hours, according to their age ; then put them into cold water, salted
in the above proportion, bring them to boil, and let them simmer
very slowly until tender ; pour the water away from them, let them
stand by the side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan partially off, to
allow the beans to dry ; then add 1 oz. of butter and a seasoning of-
pepper and salt. Shake the beans about for a minute or two, and
serve : do not stir them with a spoon, for fear of breaking them to
pieces.

Time. — After the water boils, from 2 to 2§ hours.

Average cost, 4 cl. per quart.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in winter, when other vegetables are scarce.

Note. — Haricots blancs, when new and fresh, should be put into boiling
water, and do not require any soaking previous to dressing.

Haeicots and Lentils. — Although these vegetables are not much used in this country,
yet in France, and other Catholic countries, from their peculiar constituent properties,
they form an excellent substitute for animal food during Lent aud maigre days. At the
time of the prevalence of the Roman religion in this country, they were probably much
more generally used than at present. As reformations are often carried beyond necessity,
possibly lentils may have fallen into disuse, as an article of diet amongst Protestants,
for fear the use of them might be considered a sign of popery.

HAEICOTS BLANCS A LA MAITBE D’HOTEL,

ii2o. Ingredients. — 1 quart of white haricot beans, I lb. of fresh
butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, the
juice of i lemon.

Mode. — Should the beans be very dry, soak them for an hour or two
in cold water, and boil them until perfectly tender,
as in the preceding recipe. If the water should
boil away, replenish it with a little more cold,
which makes the skin of the beans tender. Let
them be very thoroughly done ; drain them well ;
then add to them the butter, minced parsley, and
a seasoning of pepper and salt. Keep moving
the stewpan over the fire without using a spoon,
as this would break the beans ; and, when the
various ingredients are well mixed with them,
squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve very hot.
Time —From 2 to 2i hours to boil the beans.
Average cost, 4 d. per quart.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in winter.

Haricot Beans.-TIus is the haricot llano of the French, aud is a native of Ma. It
ripens readily, in dry summers, in most parts of Britain, but its culture has hitherto been

VEGETABLES.

573

confined fo gardens in England ; but in Germany and Switzerland it is grown in Holds.
It is usually harvested by pulling up the plants, which, being dried, are stacked and
thrashed. The haulm is both of little bulk and little use, but the seed is used in making
the esteemed French dish called haricot, with which it wore well if the working classes
of this country were acquainted. There is, perhaps, no other vegetable dish so cheap
and easily cooked, and, at the same time, so agreeable and nourishing. The beans are
boiled, and then mixed with a little fat or salt butter, and a little milk or water and flour.
From 3,810 parts of kidney -bean Einhoff obtained 1,805 parts of matter analogous to
starch, 351 of vegeto-animal matter, and 799 parts of mucilage.

HARICOT BEAUS AND MINCED ONIONS.

1121. Ingeedients. — 1 quart of white haricot beans, 4 middling-
sized onions, 5 pint of good brown gravy, pepper and salt to taste, a
little flour.

3Iocle. — Peel and mince the onions not too finely, and fry them in
butter of a light brown colour ; dredge over them a little flour, and
add the gravy and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Have ready a
pint of haricot beans well boiled and drained ; put them with the
onions and gravy, mix all well together, and serve very hot.

Time. — Prom 2 to 21 hours to boil the beans ; 5 minutes to fry the
onions.

Average cost, 4 cl. per quart.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in winter.

HORSERADISH.

1122. This root, scraped, is always served with hot roast beef, and
is used for garnishing many lands of boiled fish. Let the horseradish
remain in cold water for an hour ; wash it well, and with a sharp
knife scrape it into very thin shreds, commencing from the thick
end of the root. Arrange some of it lightly in a small glass dish,
and the remainder use for garnishing the joint : it should he
placed in tufts round the border of the dish, with 1 or 2 bunches on
the meat.

Average cost, 2 cl. per stick.

Seasonable from October to June.

The Hobseeadish.— This belongs to the tribe Alyssidm,
and is highly stimulant and exciting to the stomach. It
has been recommended in chronic rheumatism, palsy,
dropsical oomplaints, and in cases of enfeebled digestion.

Its principal use, however, is as a condiment to promote
appetite and excite the digestive organs. The horseradish
contains sulphur to the extent of thirty per cent, in the
number of its elements ; and it is to the presence of this
quality that the metal vessels in which the radish is some-
times distilled, are turned into a black colour. It is one
of the most powerful excitants and antiscorbutics we have,
and forms the basis of several medical preparations, in the
form of wines, tinctures, and syrups.

nOESEEADISlI.

574

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

LETTUCES.

1 1 23. These form one of the principal ingredients to summer salads ;
should he nicely blanched, and be eaten young. They are seldom
served in any other way, hut may be stewed and sent to table in a
good brown gravy flavoured with lemon-juice. In preparing them
for a salad, carefully wash them free from dirt, pick off all the decayed
and outer leaves, and dry them thoroughly by shaking them in a
cloth. Cut off the stalks, and either halve or cut the lettuces into
small pieces. The manner of cutting them up entirely depends on
the salad for which they are intended. In France the lettuces are
sometimes merely wiped with a cloth and not washed, the cooks there
declaring that the act of washing them inj uriously affects the pleasant
crispness of the plant : in this case scrupulous attention must be paid
to each leaf, and the grit thoroughly wiped away.

Average cost, when cheapest, Id. each.

Sufficient. — Allow 2 lettuces for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from March to the end of August, but may be had all
the year.

The Lettuce. — All the varieties of the garden lettuce have
originated from the Lactuca sa/iva of science, which has never
yet been found in a wild state. Hence it may be concluded
that it is merely another form of some species, changed
through the effects of cultivation. In its young state, the
lettuce forms a well-lmown and wholesome salad, containing
a blaud pellucid juice, with little taste or smell, and having
a cooling and soothing influence on the system. This arises
from the large quantities of water and mucilage it contains,
and not from any narcotic principle which it is supposed to
possess. During the period of flowering, it abounds in a
peculiar milky juice, which flows from the stem when wounded,
and which has been found to be possessed of decided medicinal
properties.

BAKED MUSHROOMS.

(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)

1124. Ikgbedients. — 16 to 20 mushroom-flaps, butter, pepper to
taste.

Mode. — For this mode of cooking, the mushroom flaps are better
than the buttons, and should not be too large. Cut off1 a portion of the
stalk, peel the top, and wipe the mushrooms carefully with a piece of
flannel and a little fine salt. Put them into a tin baking-dish, with
a very small piece of butter placed on each mushroom; sprinkle over a
little pepper, and let them bake for about 20 minutes, or longer should
the mushrooms be very large. Have ready a vert/ hot dish, pile the

LETTUCE.

VEGETABLES.

575

mushrooms high in the centre, pour the gravy round, and send them
to table quickly, with very hot plates.

Time. — 20 minutes ; large mushrooms, $ hour.

Average cost, 1 cl. each for large mushroom-flaps.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Meadow mushrooms in September and October ; cul-
tivated mushrooms may be had at any time.

Fungi. — These are common parasitical plants, originating in the production of
copious filamentous threads, called the mycelium, or spawn. Rounded tubers appear on
the mycelium ; some of these enlarge rapidly, burst an outer covering, which is left at
the base, and protrude a thick stalk, bearing at its summit a rounded body, which in a
short time expands into the pileus or cap. The gills, which occupy its lower surface,
consist of parallel plates, bearing naked sporules over their whole surface. Some of the
cells, which are visible by the microscope, produce four small cells at their free summit,
apparently by germination and constriction. These are the sporules, and this is the
development of the Agarics.

BROILED MUSHROOMS.

(A Breakfast, Luncheon, or Supper Dish.)

1125. Ingredients. — Mushroom-flaps, pepper and salt to taste,
butter, lemon -juice.

Mode. — Cleanse the mushrooms by wiping them with a piece of
flannel and a little salt ; cut off a portion of the stalk, and peel the
tops : broil them over a clear fire, turning them
once, and arrange them on a very hot dish.

Put a small piece of butter on eaoh mushroom,
season with pepper and salt, and squeeze over
them a few drops of lemon-juice. Place the
dish before the fire, and when the butter is melted, serve very hot
and quickly. Moderate- sized flaps are better suited to this mode of
cooking than the buttons : the latter are better in stews.

Time— 10 minutes for medium-sized mushrooms.

Average cost, 1 d. each for large mushrooms.

Sufficient. Allow 3 or 4 mushrooms to each person.

. Seasonable.— Meadow mushrooms in September and October ; cul-
tivated mushrooms may be had at
any time.

Varieties of the Mushroom. — The com-
mon mushroom found in our pastures is the
Anaricus campestris of science, and another
edible British species is A. Qeorgii; but A.
primulas is affirmed to be the most delicious
mushroom. The morel is Morchella esculenta ,
mu oibarium is the common truffle,

there is in New Zealand a long fungus, which
grows from the head of a caterpillar, and which
lorms a horn, as it were, and is called Sphceria
Mooertm,

MUSHROOMS.

57G

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

TO PRESERVE MUSHROOMS.

1126. Ingredients. — To each quart of mushrooms, allow 3 oz. of
butter, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1 lemon, clarified butter.

Mode. — Peel the mushrooms, put them into cold water, with a little
lemon-juice ; take them out and dry them very carefully in a cloth.
Put the butter into a stewpan capable of holding the mushrooms ;
when it is melted, add the mushrooms, lemon-juice, and a seasoning of
pepper and salt ; draw them down over a slow fire, and let them
remain until their liquor is boiled away, and they have become quite
dry, hut be careful in not allowing them to stick to the bottom of
the stewpan. When done, put them into pots, and pour over the top
clarified butter. If wanted for immediate use, they will keep good a
few days without being covered over. To re-warm them, put the
mushrooms into a stewpan, strain the butter from them, and they
will he ready for use.

Average cost, 1(7. each.

Seasonable. — Meadow mushrooms in September and October ; cul-
tivated mushrooms may be had at any time.

Localities op the Mushboom. — Mushrooms are to he met within pastures, woods,
and marshes, but are very capricious and uncertain in their places of growth, multitudes
being obtained in one season where few or none were to be found in the preceding. They
sometimes grow solitary, but more frequently they are gregarious, and rise in a regular
circular form. Many species are employed by man as food ; but, generally speaking,
they are difficult of digestion, and by no means very nourishing. Many of them are
also of suspicious qualities. Little reliance can be placed either on their taste, smell,
or colour, as much depends on the situation in which they vegetate ; and even the same
plant, it is affirmed, may be innocent when young, but become noxious when advanced
in age.

STEWED MUSHROOMS.

1127. Ingredients. — 1 pint mushroom-buttons, 3 oz. of fresh butter,
white pepper and salt to taste, lemon-juice, 1 teaspoonful of flour,
cream or milk, 4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Cut off the ends of the stalks, and pare neatly a pint of
mushroom-buttons ; put them into a basin of water, with a little
lemon -juice, as they are done. When all are prepared, take them from
the water with the hands, to avoid the sediment, and put them into a
stewpan with the fresh butter, white pepper, salt, and the j uice of
w lemon; cover the pan closely, and let the mushrooms stew gently
from 20 to 25 minutes ; then thicken the butter with the above pro-
portion of flour, add gradually sufficient cream, or cream and milk,
to make the sauce of a proper consistency, and put in the grated
nutmeg. If the mushrooms are not perfectly tender, stew them for 5
minutes longer, remove every particle of butter which may be floating
on the top, and serve.

VEGETABLES.

577

Time. — s hour. Average cost, from 9 cl. to 2s. per pint.

Sufficient for a or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Meadow mushrooms in September and October.

To procure Mushrooms. — In order to obtain mushrooms at all seasons, several
methods of propagation have been had recourse to. It is said that, in some parts of
Italy, a species of stone is used for this purpose, which is described as being of two
different kinds ; the one is found in the chalk hills near Naples, and ha3 a white, porous,
stnlafctical appearance; the other is a hardened turf from some volcanic mountains
near Florence. These stones are kept in cellars, and occasionally moistened with
water which has been used in the washing of mushrooms, and are thus supplied with
their minute seeds. In this country, gardeners provide themselves with what is called
spawn, either from the old manure of cucumber-beds, or purchase it from those whose
business it is to propagate it. When thu3 procured, it is usually made up for sale in
qnadrils, consisting of numerous white fibrous roots, having a strong smell of mushrooms.
This is planted in rows, in a dry situation, and carefully attended to for five or six weeks,
when the bed begins to produce, and continues to do so for several months.

STEWED MUSHROOMS IN GRAVY.

1128. Ingredients. — 1 pint of musbroom-buttons, 1 pint of brown
gravy No. 436, £ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, cayenne and salt to
taste.

Mode. — Make a pint of brown gravy by recipe 436 ; cut nearly all
the stalks away from the mushrooms and peel the tops ; put them
Into a stewpan, with the gravy, and simmer them gently from 20
minutes to i hour. Add the nutmeg and a seasoning of cayenne and
salt, and serve very hot.

Time. — 20 minutes to i hour.

Average cost, 9 d. to 2s. per pint.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Meadow mushrooms in September and October.

, ^ fungi have been examined chemically with much care,
both by MM. Braeannot and Vauquelin, who designate the insoluble spongy matter
by the name ol fungm, and the soluble portion is found to contain the bolotic and the
tungic acids.

BAKED SPANISH ONIONS.

1129. Ingredients. — 4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt, and water.

Mode. Put the onions, with their skins on, into a saucepan of
boiling water slightly salted, and let them hoil quickly for an hour.
Then take them out, wipe them thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece
of paper separately, and bake tbem in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or
longer, should the onions be very large. They may be served in their
skins, and eaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper
and salt ; or they may be peeled, and a good brown gravy poured
over them.

2 r

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time— 1 hour to hoil, 2 hours to hake.

Average cost, medium-sized, 2 d. each.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from September to January.

The Genus Aimum:.— ' The Onion, like the Leek, Garlic, and Shalot,
belongs to tho genus Allium, which is a numerous species of vegetable ;
aud every one of them possesses, more or less, a volatile and acrid pene-
trating principle, pricking the thin transparent membrane of the eyelids ;
and all are very similar in their properties. In the whole of them the bulb
i3 the most active part, and any one of them may supply the place of the
other ; for they are all irritant, excitant, and vesicant. With many, the
onion is a very great favourite, and is considered an extremely nuiritive
vegetable. The Spanish kind is frequently taken for supper, it being
simply boiled, aud then seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter. Some
dredge on a little flour, but many prefer it without tliis.

BURNT ONIONS FOR GRAVIES.

1130. Ingredients. — § lb. of onions, § pint of water, 5 lb. of moist
sugar, | pint of vinegar.

Mode. — Peel and chop the onions fine, and put them into a stewpan
(not tinned), with the water; let them boil for 5 minutes, then add
the sugar, and simmer gently until the mixture becomes nearly black
and throws out bubbles of smoke. Have ready the above proportion
of boiling vinegar, strain the liquor gradually to it, and keep stirring
with a wooden spoon until it is well incorporated. When cold, bottle
for use.

Time. — Altogether, 1 hour.

Properties of the Onion. — The onion is possessed of a white, acrid, volatile oil,
holding sulphur in solution, albumen, a good deal of uncrystallizable sugar aud muci-
lage ; phosphoric acid, both free and combined with lime ; acetic acid, citrate of lime,
and liguiue. Of all the species of allium, the onion has the volatile principle in the greatest
degree ; and hence it is impossible to separate the scales of tho root without the eyes
being affected. The juice is sensibly acid, and is capable of being, by fermentation,
converted into vinegar, and, mixed with water or the dregs of beer, yields, by distillation,
an alcoholic liquor. Although used ns a common esculent, onions are not suited to all
stomachs ; there are some who cannot eat them either fried or roasted, whilst others
prefer them boiled, which is the best way of using them, as, by tho process they then
undergo, they are deprived of their essential oil. Tho pulp of roasted onions, with oil,
forms an excellent anodyne and emollient poultice to suppurating tumours.

578

ONION.

STEWED SPANISH ONIONS.

1131. Ingredicnts. — 5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 pint of good broth
or gravy.

Mode. — Peel the onions, taking care not to cut away too much of
the tops or tails, or they would then fall to pieces ; put them into a
stewpan capable of holding them at the bottom without piling them
one on the top of another ; add the broth or gravy, and simmer vert/
gently until the onions are perfectly tender. Dish them, pour the
gravy round, and serve. Instead of using broth, Spanish onions may

VEGETABLES.

579

be stewed with a large piece of butter: they must be done very
gradually over a slow fire or hot-plate, and will produce plenty
of gravy.

Time.— To stew in gravy, 2 hours, or logger if very large.

Average cost, — medium-sized, 2d. each.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable from September to January.

Note. — Stewed Spanish onions are a favourite accompaniment to roast
shoulder of mutton.

Origin of the Onion. — This vegetable is thought to have originally come from India,
through Egypt, where it became an object of worship. Thence it was transmitted to
Greece, thence to Italy, and ultimately it was distributed throughout Europe, in almost
every part of which it has, from time immemorial, been cultivated. In warm climates
it is found to be less acrid and much sweeter than in colder latitudes ; and in Spain
it is not at all unusual to see a peasant munching an onion, as an Englishman would
an apple. Spanish onions, which are imported to this country during the winter months,
are, when properly roasted, perfectly sweet, and equal to' many preserves.

BOILED PARSNIPS.

1132. Ingredients. — Parsnips; to each \ gallon of water allow
1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode. — Wash the parsnips, scrape them thoroughly, and, with the
point of the knife, remove any black specks about them, and, should
they be very large, cut the thick part into quarters. Put them into a
saucepan of boiling water salted in the above proportion, boil them
rapidly until tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork in
them ; take them up, drain them, and serve in a vegetable-dish. This
vegetable is usually served with salt fish, boiled pork, or boiled beef:
when sent to table with the latter, a few should be placed alternately
with carrots round the dish, as a garnish.

Time. — Large parsnips, 1 to l| hour ; small ones, i to 1 hour.

Average cost, 1 d. each.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 for each person.

Seasonable from October to May.

The Parsnip. — This vegetable is found wild in meadows
all over Europe, and, in England, is met with very fre-
quently on dry banks in a chalky soil. In its wild state,
the root is white, mucilaginous, aromatic, and .sweet, with
some degree of acrimony : when old, it has been known
to cause vertigo. Willis relates that a whole family fell into
delirium from having eaten of its roots, and cattle never
touch it in its wild state. In domestic economy the parsnip
is much used, and is found to be a highly nutritious vege-
table. In tunes of scarcity, an excellent bread has been
made from the roots, and they also furnish an excellent
wine, resembling the malmsey of Madeira and the Canaries :
a spirit is also obtained from them in as great quantities as
from carrots. The composition of the parsnip-root has been
found to be 79'4 of water, G-9 starch and fibre, 61 gum,

6'6 sugar, and.2T of albumen.

2 P 2

'PARSNIP.

5S0

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

BOILED GREEN PEAS.

1133. Ingredients.— Green peas; to each \ gallon of water allow
1 small teaspoonful of moist sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode. — This delicious vegetable, to be eaten in perfection, should
be young, and not gathered or shelled long before it is dressed. Shell
the peas, wash them well in cold water, and drain them ; then put
them into a saucepan with plenty of fast-boiling water, to which salt
and moist sugar have been added in the above proportion; let them
boil quickly over a brisk fire, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered,
and be careful that the smoke does not draw in. When tender, pour
them into a colander; put them into a hot vegetable-dish, and quite
in the centre of the peas place a piece of butter, the size of a walnut.
Many cooks boil a small bunch of mint with the peas, or garnish them
with it, by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. Should
the peas be very old, and difficult to boil a good colour, a very tiny
piece of soda may be thrown in the water previous to putting them
in ; but this must be very sparingly used, as it causes the peas, when
boiled, to have a smashed and broken appearance. With young peas,
there is not the slightest occasion to use it.

Time. — Young peas, 10 to 15 minutes ; the large sorts, such as
marrowfats, &c., 18 to 24 minutes ; old peas, \ hour.

Average cost, when cheapest, 6 d. per peck ; when first in season, Is.
to Is. 6 d. per peck.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 peck of unshelled peas for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from June to the end of August.

Oeigin of the Pea. — All the varieties of garden peas which are cultivated have
originated from the Pimm sativum, a native of the south of Europe ; and field peas are
varieties of Fisum arvense. The Everlasting Pea is Latliyrus latifolius, an old favourite
in flower-gardens. It is said to yield an abundance of honey to bees, which are remark-
ably fond of it. In this country the pea has been grown from time immemorial ; but
its culture seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of herbage,
plants, and roots.

GREEN PEAS A LA ERANCAISE.

1134. Inurements. — 2 quarts of green peas, 3 oz. of fresh butter,
a bunch of parsley, 6 green onions, flour, a small lump of sugar, A
teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of flour.

Mode. — Shell sufficient fresh -gathered peas to fill 2 quarts ; put
them into cold water, with the above proportion of butter, and stir
them about until they are well covered with the butter; drain
them in a colander, and put them in a stewpan, with the parsley
and onions ; dredge over them a little flour, stir the peas well, and
moisten them with boiling water; boil them quickly over a large
fire for 20 minutes, or until there is no liquor remaining. Dip a

VEGETABLES.

581

small lump of sugar into some water, that it may soon melt ; put it
with the peas, to which add £ teaspoonful of salt. Take a piece of
butter the size of a walnut, work it together with a teaspoonful of
Hour ; and add this to the peas, which should be boiling when it is put
in. Keep shaking the stewpan, and, when the peas are nicely thick-
ened, dress them high in the dish, and serve.

Time. — Altogether, f hour. Average cost, Gel, per peck.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from June to the end of August.

Varieties op the Pea. — The varieties of the Pea are numerous ; but they may be
divided into two classes — those grown for the ripened seed, and those grown for gather-
ing in a green state. The culture of the latter is chiefly confined to the neighbourhoods
of large towns, and may be considered as in part rather to belong to the operations of
the gardener than to those of the agriculturist. The grey varieties are the early grey,
the late grey, and the purple grey ; to which some add the Marlborough grey and the
horn grey. The white varieties grown in fields are the pearl, early Charlton, golden
hotspur, the common white, or Suffolk, and other Suffolk varieties.

STEWED GREEE PEAS.

1135. Ingredients. — 1 quart of peas, 1 lettuce, 1 onion, 2 oz. of
buttef, pepper and salt to taste, 1 egg, f teaspoonful of powdered
sugar.

Mode. — Shell the peas, and cut the onion and lettuce into slices ;
put these into a stewpan, with the butter, pepper, and salt, but with
no more water than that which hangs round the lettuce from washing.
Stew the whole very gently for rather more than 1 hour ; then stir to it
a well-beaten egg, and about \ teaspoonful of powdered sugar. When
the peas, &c., are nicely thickened, serve ; but, after the egg is added,
do not allow them to boil.

Time— 1^ hour. Average cost, 6 cl. per peck.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Seasonable from June to the end of
August.

The Sweet-pea ahd the Heath oe Wood-pea.

— The well-known sweet-pea forms a fine covering to
a trellis, or lattice-work in a flower-garden. Its gay
and fragrant flowers, with its rambling habit, render
it peculiarly adapted for such a purpose. The wood-
pea, or heath-pea, is found in the heaths of Scot-
land, and the Highlanders of that country are ex-
tremely partial to them, and dry and chew them to
give a greater relish to their whiskey. They also
regard them as good against chest complaints, and
say that by the use of them they are enabled to with-
stand hunger and thirst for a long time. The peas
have a sweet taste, somewhat like the root of li-
quorice, and, when boiled, have an agreeable flavour,
and are nutritive. In times of scarcity they have
served as an article of food. When well boiled, a
fork will pass through them j and, slightly dried, they
are roasted, and in Holland and Flanders served up

like chestnuts. Gbeen pea.

582

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

BAKED POTATOES.

RAKED POTATOES SERVED
Ilf NAPKIN.

1136. Ingredients.— Potatoes.

Mode.— Choose large potatoes, as much of a size as possible ; wash
them in lukewarm water, and scrub them well, for the browned skin
of a baked potato is by many persons considered the better part of it.

Put them into a moderate oven, and bake
them for about 2 hours, turning them three
or four times whilst they are cooking. Serve
them in a napkin immediately they are done,
as, if kept a long time in the oven, they have
a shrivelled appearance. Potatoes may also be roasted before the fire,
in an American oven ; but when thus cooked, they must be done
very slowly. Do not forget to send to table with them a piece of
cold butter.

Time. — Large potatoes, in a hot oven l£ hour to 2 hours ; in a cool
oven, 2 to 2£ hours.

Average cost, is. per bushel.

Sufficient. — Allow 2 to each person.

Seasonable all the year, but not good just before and whilst new
potatoes are in season.

Potato-Sugar. — This sugary substance, found in the tubers of potatoes, is obtained
in the form of syrup or treacle, and has not yet been crystallized. It resembles the
sugar of grapes, has a very street taste, and may be used formating sweetmeats, and as
a substitute tor honey. Sixty pounds of potatoes, yielding eight pounds of drv starch,
will produce seven and a halt’ pounds of sugar. In Russia it is extensively made,
as good, though of less consistency than the treacle obtained from cane-sugar. A spirit
is also distilled from the tubers, which resembles braudy, but is milder, and ha? a flavour
as if it were charged with the odour of violets or raspberries. In France this manu-
facture is carried on pretty extensively, aud five hundred pounds of the tubers will
produce twelve quarts of spirit, the pulp being given to cattle.

TO BOIL POTATOES.

1137. Ingredients. — 10 or 12 potatoes; to each 3 gallon of water
allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode. — Choose potatoes of an equal size, pare them, take out all
the eyes and specks, and as they are peeled, throw them into cold
water. Put them into a saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover
them, with salt in the above proportion, and let them boil gently until
tender. Ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them,
and take them up the moment they feel soft through ; lor if they are
left in the water afterwards, they become waxy or watery. Drain
away the water, put the saucepan by the side of the fire, with the lid
partially uncovered, to allow the steam to escape, aud let the potatoes
get thoroughly dry, and do not allow them to get burnt. Their
superfluous moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes, if a good sort.

VEGETABLES.

583

should be perfectly mealy and dry. Potatoes vary so much in quality
and size, that it is difficult to give the exact time for boiling ; they
should be attentively watched, and probed with a fork, to ascertain
when they are cooked. Send them to table quickly, and very hot,
and with an opening in the cover of the dish, that a portion of the
steam may evaporate, and not fall back on the potatoes.

7Ywie.— Moderate-sized old potatoes, 15 to 20 minutes after the
water boils ; large ones, i hour to 35 minutes.

Average cost, 4s. per bushel.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but not good just before and whilst new
potatoes are in season.

Note.— To keep potatoes hot, after draining the water from them, put a
folded cloth or flannel (kept for the purpose) on the top of them, keeping the
saucepan-lid partially uncovered. This will absorb the moisture, and keep
them hot some time without spoiling.

The Potato. — The potato belongs to the family of the Solanacece , the greater number
of which inhabit the tropics, and the remainder are distributed over the temperate
regions of both hemispheres, but do not extend to the arctic and antarctic zones. The
whole of the family are suspicious ; a great number are narcotic, and many are delete-
rious. The roots partake of the properties of the plants, and are sometimes even more
active. The tubercles of such as produce them, are amylaceous and nutritive, as in
those of the potato. The leaves are generally narcotic ; but they lose this principle in
boiling, as is the case with the Solanum nigrum, which are used as a vegetable when
cooked.

TO BOIL POTATOES IE THEIR JACKETS.

1138. Ingredients.— 10 or 12 potatoes ; to each i gallon of water,
allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode. — To obtain this wholesome and delicious vegetable cooked
in perfection, it should be boiled and sent to table with the skin on.
In Ireland, where, perhaps, the cooking of potatoes is better under-
stood than in any country, they are always served so. Wash the pota-
toes well, and if necessary, use a clean scrubbing-brush to remove the
dirt from them ; and if possible, choose the potatoes so that they may
all be as nearly the same size as possible. When thoro'ughly cleansed,
fill the saucepan half full with them, and just cover the potatoes with
cold water, salted in the above proportion : they are more quickly
boiled 'svith a small quantity of water, and, besides, are more savoury
than when drowned in it. Bring them to boil, then draw the pan to
the side of the fire, and let them simmer gently until tender. Ascer-
tain when they are done by probing them with a fork ; then pour off
the water, uncover the saucepan, and let the potatoes dry by the side
of the fire, taking care not to let them burn. Peel them quickly, put
them in a very hot vegetable-dish, either with or without a napkin,
and serve very quickly. After potatoes are cooked, they should never

581

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

be entirely covered up, as the steam, instead of escaping, falls down
on them, and makes them watery and insipid. In Ireland they are
usually served up with the skins on, and a small plate is placed by
the side of each guest.

Time. — Moderate-sized potatoes, with their skins on, 2d to 25
minutes after the water boils ; large potatoes, 25 minutes to | hour,
or longer ; 5 minutes to dry them.

Average cost, 4s. per bushel. Sufficient for 6 persons.

Seasonable all the year, but not good just before and whilst new
potatoes are in season.

Analysis or the Potato. — Next to the cereals, the potato is the most valuable
plant for the production of human food. Its tubers, according to analysis conducted by
Mr. Fromberg, in the laboratory of the Agricultural Chemical Association in Scotland,
contain the following ingredients : — 75'52 per cent, of water, 15-72 starch, 0 55 dextrine,
3’3 of impure saccharine matter, and 3 25 of fibre with coagulated albumen. In a
dried state the tuber contains 64 2 per cent, of starch, 2-25 of dextrine, 13 47 of
impure saccharine matter, 5 77 of caseine, gluten, and albumen, 1 of fatty matter, and
13 31 of fibre with coagulated albumen.

TO BOIL NEW POTATOES.

1139. Ingredients. — Potatoes; to each \ gallon of water allow
1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode. — Do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed,
as they are never good when they have been out of the ground some
time. Well wash them, rub off the skins with a coarse cloth, and
put them into boiling water salted in the above proportion. Let them
boil until tender ; try them with a fork, and when done, pour the
water away from them ; let them stand by the side of the fire with
the lid of the saucepan partially uncovered, and when the potatoes
are thoroughly dry, put them into a hot vegetahle-dish, with a piece
of butter the size of a walnut ; pile the potatoes over this, and serve.
If the potatoes are too old to have the skins rubbed off, boil them in
their jackets ; drain, peel, and serve them as above, with a piece of
butter placed in the midst of them.

Time. — £ to i hour, according to the size.

Average cost, in full season, id. per lb.

* Sufficient. — Allow 3 lbs. for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in May and June, hut may he had, forced, in March.

Potato Staech. — This fecula has a beautiful white crystalline appearance, and is
inodorous, soft to the touch, insoluble in cold, but readily soluble in boiling water. It is
on this starch that the nutritive properties of the tubers depend. As an aliment, it is
well adapted for invalids and persona of delicate constitution. It may be used in the
form of arrow-root, and eaten with milk or sugar. For pastry of all kinds it is more
light and easier of digestion than that made with Hour of wheat. Iu confectionery it
serves to form creams and jellies, and in cookery may be used to thicken soups *uui
sauces. It accommodates itself to the chest and stomach ot children, for whom it is
well adapted ; and it is an aliment that cannot be too generally used, as much on account
of its wholesomeness as its cheapness, and the ease with which it is kept, which are
cquul, if not superior, to all the much-vaunted exotic feculic j as, salep, tapioca, sago, and
arrow-root.

VEGETABLES.

585

TO STEAM POTATOES.

1 140. Ingredients.— Potatoes ; boiling water.

Mode. — This mode of cooking potatoes is now muck in vogue,
particularly where they are wanted on a large scale, it being so very
convenient. Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold water as they
are peeled, then put them into a steamer. Place the steamer over a
saucepan of boiling water, and steam the potatoes from 20 to 40
minutes, according to the size and sort. When a fork goes easily
through them, they are done ; then take them up, dish, and serve very
quickly.

Time. — 20 to 40 minutes. Average cost, 4s. per bushel.

Sufficient. —Allow 2 large potatoes to each person.

Seasonable all the year, but not so good whilst new potatoes are in
season.

Uses oe the Potato. — Potatoes boiled and beaten along with sour milk form a sort
of cheese, which is made in Saxony ; and, when kept in close vessels, may be preserved
for several years. It is generally supposed that the water in which potatoes are boiled
is injurious ; and as instances are recorded where cattle having drunk it were seriously
affected, it may be well to err on the safe side, and avoid its use for any alimentary
purpose. Potatoes which have been exposed to the air and become green, are very un-
wholesome. Cadet de Vaux asserts that potatoes will clean linen as well as soap; and
it is well known that the berries of the S. saponaceum are used in Peru for the same
purpose.

HOW TO USE COLD POTATOES.

1141. Ingredients. — The remains of cold potatoes; to every lb.
allow 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 ditto of minced onions, 1 oz. of butter,
milk.

Mode.— Mash the potatoes- with a fork until perfectly free from
lumps ; stir in the other ingredients, and add sufficient milk to
moisten them well ; press the potatoes into a mould, and bake in a
moderate oven until nicely brown, which will be in from 20 minutes
to 2 hour. Turn them out of the mould, and serve.

Time. — 20 minutes to i hour.

Seasonable at any time.

Potato Bread. — The manner in which this is made is very simple. The adhesive
tendency of the flour of the potato acts against its being baked or kneaded without being
mixed with wheaten flour or meal; it may, however, be made into cakes in the following
manner A small wooden frame, nearly square, is laid on a pan like a frying-pan, and
is grooved/and so constructed that, by meansofnpresser or lid introduced into the groove,
the cake is at once fashioned, according to the dimensions of the mould. The frame
containing the farina may be almost immediately withdrawn after the mould is formed
upon the pan ; because, from the consistency imparted to the incipient cake by the heat,
it will speedily admit of being safely handled : it must not, however, bo fried too hastily.
It will then cat very palatably, and might from time to time be soaked for puddings, like
tapioca, or might he used like the cassada-cake, for, when well buttered and toasted, it
will he found an excellent accompaniment to breakfast. In Scotland, cold boiled potatoes
are frequently squeezed up and mixed with flour or oatmeal, and an excellent cake, or
icon, obtained.

586

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

FRIED POTATOES (French. Fashion).

1142. Ingredients.— Potatoes, hot butter or clarified, dripping,
salt. '

Mode.— Peel and cut the potatoes into thin slices, as nearly the
same size as possible ; make some butter or dripping quite hot in a
frying-pan ; put in the potatoes, and fry them on both sides of a nice
brown. When they are crisp and done, take them up, place them
on a cloth before the fire to drain the grease from them, and serve
very hot, after sprinkling them with salt. These are delicious with
rump-steak, and, in France, are frequently served thus as a breakfast
dish. The remains of cold potatoes may also be sliced and fried by
the above recipe, but the slices must be cut a little thicker.

Time. — Sliced raw potatoes, 5 minutes ; cooked potatoes, 5 minutes.

Average cost, 4s. per bushel.

Sufficient, — 6 sliced potatoes for 3 persons.

Seasonable at any time. ,

A GERMAN METHOD OF COOKING POTATOES.

1143. Ingredients.— 8 to 10 middling-sized potatoes, 3 oz. of but-
ter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, i pint of broth, 2 tablespoonfuls of
vinegar.

Mode. — Put the butter and flour into a stewpan ; stir over the fire
until the butter is of a nice brown colour, and add the broth and
vinegar ; peel and cut the potatoes into long thin slices, lay them in
the gravy, and let them simmer gently until tender, which will be in
from 10 to 15 minutes, and serve very hot. A laurel-leaf simmered
with the potatoes is an improvement.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes.

Seasonable at any time.

Pbeseeving Potatoes. — In general, potatoes are stored or preserved in pits, cellars,
pies, or camps ; but, whatever mode is adopted, it is essential that the tubers be
perfectly dry ; otherwise, they will surely rot ; and a lew rotten potatoes will contaminate
a whole mass. The pie, as it is called, consists of a trench, lined and covered with
straw’ ; the potatoes in it being piled in ihe shape of a house roof, to the height of about
three feet. The camps are shallow pits, lilled and ridged up in a similar manner, covered
up with the excavated mould of the pit. In Russia and Canada, the potato is preserved
in boxes, in houses or cellars, heated, when necessary, to a temperature one or two
degrees above the freezing-point, by stoves. To keep potatoes for a considerable time,
the best way is to place them in thin layers on a platiorm suspended in nu ice-cellar :
there, the temperature being always below that of active vegetation, they will not sprout ;
while, not being above one or two degrees below the freezing-point, the tubers will not
be frostbitten. Another mode is to scoop out the eyes with a very small scoop, and keep
the roots buried in earth; a third mode is to destroy the vital principle, by kiln-drying,
steaming, or scalding ; a fourth is to bury them so deep in dry soil, that no change of
temperature will reach them ; and thus, being without air, they will remain upwards of a
year without vegetating.

VEGETABLES

587

POTATOES A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL.

1144. Ingredients. — Potatoes, salt and water ; to every 6 potatoes
allow 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 2 oz. of butter, pepper and salt
to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.

Mode. — Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them in salt and water
by recipe No. 1138 ; when they are done, drain them, let them cool ;
then peel and cut the potatoes into thick slices : if these are too thin,
they would break in the sauce. Put the butter into a stewpan with
the pepper, salt, gravy, and parsley ; mix these ingredients well toge-
ther, put in the potatoes, shake them two or three times, that they may
be well covered with the sauce, and, when quite hot through, squeeze
in the lemon-j uice, and serve.

Time. — 3 to | hour to boil the potatoes ; 10 minutes for them to heat
in the sauce.

Average cost, 4s. per bushel.

Sufficient for 3 persons. Seasonable all the year.

MASHED POTATOES.

1 145. Ingredients. — Potatoes ; to every lb. of mashed potatoes allow
1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, salt to taste.

Mode. — Boil the potatoes in their skins ; when done, drain them,
and let them get thoroughly dry by the side of the fire ; then peel them,
and, as they are peeled, put them into a clean saucepan, and with a
large fork beat them to a light paste ; add butter, milk, and salt in
the above proportion, and stir all the ingredients well over the fire.
When thoroughly hot, dish them lightly, and draw the fork backwards
over the potatoes to make the surface rough, and serve. When dressed
in this manner, they may be browned at the top with a salamander, or
before the fire. Some cooks press the potatoes into moulds, then turn
them out, and brown them in the oven : this is a pretty mode of
serving, but it makes them heavy. In whatever way they are sent. to
table, care must be taken to have them quite free from lumps.

Time. — From i to % hour to boil the potatoes.

Average cost, 4s. per bushel.

Sufficient, — 1 lb. of mashed potatoes for 3 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

PDREE DE POMME3 DE TERRE, or. Very Thin-mashed

Potatoes.

1146- Ingredients. — To every lb. of mashed potatoes allow ^ pint
of good broth or stock, 2 oz. of butter.

588

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — Boil the potatoes, well drain, them, and pound them smoothly
in a mortar, or heat them up with a fork ; add the stock or broth, and
rub the potatoes through a sieve. Put the puree into a very clean
saucepan with the butter ; stir it well over the fire until thoroughly hot,
and it will then be ready to serve. A puree should he rather thinner
than mashed potatoes, and is a delicious accompaniment to delicately
broiled mutton cutlets. Cream or milk may be substituted for the
broth when the latter is not at hand. A casserole of potatoes, which
is often used for ragouts instead of rice, is made by mashing potatoes
rather thickly, placing them on a dish, and making an opening in the
centre. After having browned the potatoes in the oven, the dish
should he wiped clean, and the ragout or fricassee poured in.

Time. — About § hour to boil the potatoes ; 6 or 7 minutes to warm
the puree.

Average cost, 4s. per bushel.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 lh. of cooked potatoes for 3 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Varieties of the Potato. — These are very numerous. “ They differ,” says an

authority, “in their leaves and hulk of haulm;
in the colour of the skiu of the tubers; in the
colour of the interior, compared with that of the
skin ; in the time of ripening ; in being farina-
ceous, glutinous, or watery ; in tasting agreeably
or disagreeably ; in cooking readily or tediously ;
in the length of the subterraneous stolonet to
which the tubers are attached ; in blossoming
or not blossoming ; and, finally, in the soil which
they prefer.” The earliest varieties grown in fields
are, — the Early Kidney, the Nonsuch, the Early
Shaw, and the Early Champion. This last is the
most generally cultivated round London : it is both
sweet potato. mealy and hardy. The sweet potato is but rarely

eaten in Britain ; but in America it is often served
at table, and is there very highly esteemed.

POTATO HISSOLES.

1147. Ingredients. — Mashed potatoes, salt and pepper to taste;
when liked, a very little minced parsley, egg, and bread crumbs.

Mode. — Boil and mash the potatoes by recipe No. 1145; add a

seasoning of pepper and salt, and, when
liked, a little minced parsley. Roll the
potatoes into small balls, cover them with
egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard
for about 10 minutes ; let them drain before the fire, dish them on a
napkin, and serve.

Time.— IQ minutes to fry the rissoles.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — The flavour of these rissoles may be very much increased by adding
finely-minced tongue or ham, or even chopped onions, when these are liked.

POTATO ItISSOI.ES.

VEGETABLES.

589

Qualities op Potatoes. — In making a choice from the many varieties of potatoes
which are everywhere found, the best way is to get a sample and taste them, and then
fix upon the kind which best pleases your palate. The Shaw is one of the most esteemed
of the early potatoes for field culture ; and the Kidney and Bread-fruit are also good
sorts. The Lancashire Pink is also a good potato, and is much cultivated m the neigh-
bourhood of Liverpool. As late or long-keeping potatoes, the Tartan or Red-apple
stands very high in favour.

POTATO SNOW.

1148. Ingredients. — Potatoes, salt, and. water.

Mode.— Choose large white potatoes, as free from spots as possible ;
boil them in their skins in salt and water until perfectly tender;
drain and dry them thoroughly by the side of the fire, and peel them.
Put a hot dish before the fire, rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve
on to this dish ; do not touch them afterwards, or the flakes will fall,
and serve as hot as possible.

Time. — h to f hour to boil the potatoes.

Average cost, is. per bushel.

Sufficient, — 6 potatoes for 3 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

The Potato as an Article op Human Food. — This valuable esculent, next to wheat,
is of the greatest importance in the eye of the political economist. Prom no other crop
that can be cultivated does the public derive so much benefit ; and it has been demon-
strated that an acre of potatoes will feed double the number of people that can be fed
from an acre of wheat.

TO DRESS SALSIFY.

1149. Ingredients. — Salsify; to each * gallon of water allow 1
heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of
lemon-juice.

Mode. — Scrape the roots gently, so as to strip them only of their
outside peel ; cut them into pieces about 4 inches long, and, as they
are peeled, throw them into water with which has been mixed a little
lemon-juice, to prevent their discolouring. Put them into boiling water,
with salt, butter, and lemon-juice in the above proportion, and let
them boil rapidly until tender ; try them with a fork ; and, when it
penetrates easily, they are done. Drain the salsify, and serve with a
good white sauce or French melted butter.

Time. — 30 to 50 minutes. Seasonable in winter.

Note. — This vegetable may be also boiled, sliced, and fried in batter of a
nice brown. When crisp and a good colour, they should be served with
fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little fine salt sprinkled over the
salsify.

Salsift. — This esculent is, for the sake of its roots, cultivated in gardens. It belongs
to the Composite cluss of flowers, which is the most extensive family in the vegetable
kingdom. This family is not only one of the most natural and most uniform in structure,
but there is also a great similarity existing in the properties of the plants of which it is
composed. Generally speaking, all composite flowers are tonic or stimulant in their
medical virtues.

590

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

BOILED SEA-KALE.

1150. Ingredients. — To each £ gallon of ■water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt.

Mode. — Well wash the kale, cut away any wormeaten pieces, and
tie it into small bunches ; put it into boiling water, salted in the above
proportion, and let it boil quickly until tender.
Take it out, drain, untie the bunches, and serve
with plain melted butter or white sauce, a little
boiled sea-kale. of which may be poured over the kale. Sea-
kale may also be parboiled and stewed in good
brown gravy : it will then take about 5 hour altogether.

Time. — 15 minutes ; when liked very thoroughly
done, allow an extra 5 minutes.

Average cost , in full season, 9 d. per basket.
Sufficient. — Allow 12 heads for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable from February to June.

Sea- kale. — This plant belongs to the Asparagus tribe, and
grows on seashores, especially in the West of England, and in
the neighbourhood of Dublin. Although it is now in very general
use, it aid not come into repute till 1791. It is easily cultivated,
and is esteemed as one of the most valuable esculent's indigenous
to Britain. As a vegetable, it is stimulating to the appetite,
easily digestible, and nutritious. It is so light that the most
delicate organizations may readily eat it. The flowers form a
favourite resort for bees, as their petals contain a great amount
of saccharine matter.

SEA-KALE.

BOILED SALAD.

1 1 5 1 • Ingredients.— 2 heads of celery, 1 pint of French beans,
lettuce, and endive. .

Mode. — Boil the celery and beans separately until tender, and cut
the celery into pieces about 2 inches long. Put these into a salad-

EEENCn BEANS.

CIIEBVIL.

bowl or dish ; pOur over either of the sauces No. 506, 50", or 508, and
garnish the dish with a little lettuce finely chopped, blanched

VEGETABLES AND SALADS.

591

endive, or a few tufts of boiled cauliflower. This composition, if less
agreeable than vegetables in their raw state, is more wholesome ; for
salads, however they may be compounded, when eaten uncooked, prove
to some people indigestible. Tarragon, chervil f burnet, and boiled
onion, may be added to the above salad with advantage, as also slices
of cold meat, poultry, or fish.

Seasonable from July to October.

Acetaeiovs Vegetables. — By the terra Acetarious vegetables, is expressed a nume-
rous class of plants, of various culture and habit, which are principally used as salads,
piclcles, and condiments. They are to be considered rather as articles of comparative
luxury than as ordinary food, and are more desirable for their coolness, or their agree-
able flavour, than for their nutritive powers.

Cauliflowee. — The cauliflower is less indigestible than the cabbage ; it possesses a
most agreeable flavour, and is sufficiently delicate to be served at the tables of the
wealthy. It is a wholesome vegetable, but should be eaten moderately, as it induces
flatulence. Persons of weak constitutions and delicate stomachs should abstain from
cauliflower as much as possible. They may be prepared in a variety of ways ; and, in
selecting them, the whitest should be chosen ; those tinged with green or yellow being
of indifferent quality .

SUMMER SALAD.

1152. Ingredients. — 3 lettuces, 2 bandfuls of mustard-and-cress,
10 young radishes, a~few slices of cucumber.

Mode. — Let the herbs be as fresh as possible forra salad, and, if at
all stale or dead-looking, let them lie in water for an hour or two,
which will very much refresh them. Wash
and carefully pick them over, remove any de-
cayed or wormeaten leaves, and drain them
thoroughly by swinging them gently in a clean
cloth. With a silver knife, cut the lettuces
into small pieces, and the radishes and cucum-
bers into thin slices ; arrange all these ingre- salad or bowl.
dients lightly on a dish, with the mustard-

and-cress, and pour under, but not over the salad, either of the
sauces No. 506, 507, or 508, and do not stir it up until it is to
be eaten. It may be garnished with hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices,
sliced cucumbers, nasturtiums, cut vegetable-flowers, and many
other things that taste will always suggest to make a pretty and
elegant dish. In making a good salad, care must be taken to have
the herbs freshly gathered, and thoroughly drained before the sauce
is added to them, or it will be watery and thin. Young spring
onions, cut small, are by many persons considered an improvement to
salads ; but, before these are added, the cook should always consult
the taste of her employer. Slices of cold meat or poultry added to a
salad make a convenient "and quickly-made summer luncheon-dish ;
or cold fish, flaked, will also be found exceedingly nice, mixed
with it.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

592

CUCUMBEIt-SLICE.

Average cost, 9c I. for a salad for
5 or 6 persons ; but more expensive
when the herbs are forced.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from May to Septem-
ber.

Cucumbers. — The cucumber is refreshing:,
but neither nutritious nor digestible, and should
be excluded from the regimen of the delicate.
There are various modes of preparing cucum-
bers. When gathered young,- they are called
gherkins : these, pickled, are much used in
seasonings.

"Radishes. This is the common name given to the root of the Itaphami* ta/ivii8t one
of the varieties of the cultivated horseradish. There are red and white radishes ; and the
French have also what they call violet and black ones, of which the black are the larger.
Radishes are composed of nearly the same constituents as turnips, that is to say, mostly
fibre and nitrogen ; and, being generally eaten raw, it is on the last of these that their
flavour depends. They do not agree with people, except those who are in goojj health,

turnib*badishes. long radishes.

and have active digestive powers ; for they are difficult of digestion, and cause flatulency
and wind, and are the cause of headaches when eaten to excess. Besides being eaten
raw, they are sometimes, but rarely, boiled ; and they also serve as a pretty garnish for
salads. In China, the radish may be found growing naturally, without cultivation ; and
may be occasionally met with in England as a weed, in similar places to where the wild
turnip grows ; it, however, thrives best in the garden, and the ground it likes best is a
deep oi>en loam, or a well-manured sandy soil.

WINTER SALAD.

1153. Ingredients.— Endive, mustard-and-cress, boiled beetroot,
3 or 4 hard-boiled eggs, celery.

Mode. — The above ingredients form the principal constituents of a
winter salad, and may be converted into a very pretty dish, by nicely
contrasting the various colours, and by tastefully garnishing it. Shred
the celery into thin pieces, after having carefully washed and cut
away all wormeaten pieces ; cleanse the endive and mustard-and-cress
free from grit, and arrange these high in the centre of a salad-bowl
or dish ; garnish with the hard-boiled eggs and beetroot, both of
which should be cut in slices ; and pour into the dish, but not over the
salad, either of the sauces No. 506, 507, or 508. Never dress a salad
long before it is required for table, as, by standing, it loses its fresh-
ness and pretty crisp and light appearance ; the sauce, however, may

VEGETABLES AND SALADS.

593

always be prepared a few hours beforehand, and when required for
use, the herbs laid lightly. over it.

Average cost , 9 d. for a salad for 5 or 6 persons.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from the end of September to March.

Salads. — Salads are raw vegetables, of which, among us, the lettuce is the most
generally used ; several others, however, such as cresses, celery, onions, beetroot, &c.,
are occasionally employed. As vegetables eaten in a raw state are apt to ferment on
the stomach, and as they have very little stimulative power upon that organ, they are
visually dressed with some condiments, such as pepper, vinegar, salt, mustard, ami oil.
Respecting the use of these, medical men disagree, especially in reference to oil, which
is condemned by some and recommended by others.

POTATO SALAD.

1154. Ingredients. — 10 or 12 cold boiled potatoes, 4 tablespoonfuls
of tarragon or plain vinegar, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pepper and
salt to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley.

Mode. — Cut the potatoes into slices about i inch in thickness ; put
these into a salad-bowl with oil and vinegar in the above proportion ;
season with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley ; stir
the salad well, that all the ingredients may be thoroughly incorpo-
rated, and it is ready to serve. This should be made two or three
hours before it is wanted for table. Anchovies, olives, or pickles may
be added to this salad, as also slices of cold beef, fowl, or turkey.

Seasonable at any time.

CHICKEN SALAD.— (See No. 931.)

GHOUSE SALAD— (See No. 1026.)

LOBSTER SALAD.— (See No. 272.)

TO BOIL SPINACH (English Mode).

1155. Ingredients. — 2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls
of salt, 1 oz. of butter, pepper to taste.

Mode. — Pick the spinach carefully, and see that no stalks or weeds
are left amongst it ; wash it in several waters, and, to prevent it
being gritty, act in the following manner: —

Have ready two large pans or tubs filled with

water ; put the spinach into one of these, and SPINach gahnished with
thoroughly wash it ; then, with the hands, take choutons.

out the spinach, and put it into the other tub of water (by this means all
the grit will be left at the bottom of the tub) ; wash it again, and, should
it not be perfectly free from dirt, repeat the process. Put it into a very
large saucepan, with about \ pint of water, just sufficient to keep the
spinach from burning, and the above proportion of salt. Press it
down frequently with a wooden spoon, that it may be done equally ;

591

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and when it has boiled for rather more than 10 minutes, or until it is
perfectly tender, drain it in a colander, squeeze it quite dry, and chop
it finely. Put the spinach into a clean stewpan, with the butter and
a seasoning of pepper ; stir the whole over the fire until quite hot ;
then put it on a hot dish, and garnish with sippets of 'toasted, bread.

Time.— 10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach, 5 minutes to warm
with the butter.

Average cost for the above quantity, 8 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Spring spinach from March to July; winter spinach
from November to March.

Note. — Grated nutmeg, pounded mace, or lemon-juico may also be added
to enrich the flavour ; and poached eggs are also frequently served with
spinach : they should be placed on the top of it, and it should bo garnished
with sippets of toasted bread. — See coloured plate U.

Varieties or Spinach. — These comprise the Strawberry spinach, which, under that
name, was wont to be grown in our flower-gardens ; the Good King Harry, the Garden
Oracle, the Prickly, and the Round, are the varieties commonly used. The Oracle is a
hardy sort, much esteemed in France, and is a native of Tnrtary, introduced in 1548.
The common spinach has its leaves round, and is softer and more succulent than any of
the Brassica tribe.

SPINACH DRESSED WITH CREAM, a la Erancaise.

1156. Ingredients. — 2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of
salt, 2 oz. of butter, 8 tablespoonfuls of cream, 1 small teaspoonful of
pounded sugar, a very little grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Boil and drain the spinach as in recipe No. 1155 ; chop it
finely, and put it into a stewpan with the butter ; stir over a gentle
fire, and, when the butter has dried away, add the remaining ingre-
dients, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Previously to adding the
cream, boil it first, in case it should curdle. Serve on a hot dish, and
garnish either with sippets of toasted bread or leaves of puff-paste.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach ;
10 minutes to stew with the cream.

Average cost for the above quantity, 8 d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Spring spinach from March to
July ; winter spinach from November to March.

Spinach. — This is a Persian plant. It lias been cultivated
in our gardens about two hundred years, and is the most whole-
some of vegetables. It is not very nutritious, but is very easily
digested. It is very light and laxative. Wonderful properties
have been ascribed to spinach. It is an excellent vegetable,
and very beneficial to health. Plainly dressed, it is a resource
spinach. lor the poor; prepared luxuriantly, it is a choice dish for the

rich.

Spinach.— This vegetable belongs to a sub-order of the Saholacea, or saltworts, and
is classified under the head of Spirolobeec , with leaves shaped like worms, and of a sne-

VEGETABLES.

595

culent kind. In its geographical distribution it is commonly found in extratropical and
temperate regions, where they grow as weeds in waste places, and among rubbish, and
in marshes by the seashore. In the tropics the order is rarely found. Many of them
are used as potherbs, and some of them are emetic and vermifuge in their medicinal
properties.

FRENCH MODE OF DRESSING SPINACH.

1157. Ingredients.— 2 pailfuls of spinach, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt,
2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 8 tablespoonfuls of good. gravy ;
when liked, a very little grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Pick, wash, and boil the spinach, as in recipe No. 1155,
and when quite tender, drain and squeeze it perfectly dry from the
water that hangs about it. Chop it very fine, put the butter into a
stewpan, and lay the spinach over that ; stir it over a gentle fire,
and dredge in the flour. Add the gravy, and let it boil quickly for a
few minutes, that it may not discolour. When the flavour of nutmeg
is liked, grate some to the spinach, and when thoroughly hot, and the
gravy has dried away a little, serve. Garnish the dish with sippets
of toasted bread.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes to boil the spinach ; 10 minutes to simmer
in the gravy.

Average cost for the above quantity, 8 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Spring spinach from March to July;, winter spinach
from October to February.

Note. — For an entremets or second-course dish, spinach dressed by the
above recipe may be pressed into a hot mould ; it should then be turned out
quickly, and served very hot.

BAKED TOMATOES.

( Excellent .)

1158. Ingredients. — 8 or 10 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste,
2 oz. of butter, bread crumbs.

Mode. off the stalks from the tomatoes ; cut them into thick
slices, and put them into a deep baking-dish ; add a plentiful season-
ing of pepper and salt, and butter in the above proportion ; cover the
whole with bread crumbs ; drop over these a little clarified butter ;
bake in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to 5 hour, and serve very hot.
This vegetable, dressed as above, is an exceedingly nice accompani-
ment to all kinds of roast meat. The tomatoes, instead of being cut
in slices, may be baked whole ; but they will take rather longer time
to cook.

Time. — 20 minutes to i hour.

Average cost, in full season, 9 d. per basket.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. '

2 q 2

596

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

THE TOMATO.

Seasonable in August, September, and October ;
but may be bad, forced, much earlier.

. Tomatoes. Tho Tomato is a native of tropical countries, but
is now cultivated considerably both in France and England Its
skin is of a brilliant red, and its flavour, which is somewhat
sour, has become of immense importance in the culinary art.
It is used both fresh and preserved. When eaten fresh, it is
served as an entremets; but its principal use is in sauce and gravy •
its flavour stimulates the appetite, and is almost universally
approved. The Tomato is a wholesome fruit, and digests
easily. From July to September, they gather the tomatoes
green in France, not breaking them away from the stalk; they
are then hung, head downwards, in a dry and not too cold
place ; and there they ripen.

HOT TOMATO SAUCE, or PUEEE OF TOMATOES.
(See Ho. 529.)

STEWED TOMATOES.

1159. Ingredients.— 8 tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, 2 oz. of
butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar.

Mode. — Slice the tomatoes into a lined saucepan ; season them with
pepper and salt, and place small pieces of butter on them. Cover
the lid down closely, and stew from 20 to 25
minutes, or until the tomatoes are perfectly
tender ; add the vinegar, stir two or three
times, and serve with any kind of roast meat,
with which they will be found a delicious accompaniment.

Time. — 20 to 25 minutes.

Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from August to October ; but may be had, forced, much
earlier.

STEWED TOMATOES.

Analysis or the Tomato. — The fruit of the love-apple is the only part used ns an
esculent, and it has been found to contain a particular acid, a volatile oil, a brown, very
fragrant extracto-resinous matter, a vegeto-mineral matter, muco-snccharine, some
salts, and, in all probability, an alkaloid. The whole plant has a disagreeable odour, and
its juice, subjected to the action of the fire, emits a vapour so powerful as to cause
vertigo and vomiting.

II.

1160. Ingredients.— 8 tomatoes, about I pint of good gravy,
thickening of butter and flour, cayenne and salt to taste.

Mode.— Take out the stalks of the tomatoes ; put them into a wide
stewpan, pour over them the above proportion of good brown gravy,
and stew gently until they are tender, occasionally carefully turning
them, that they may be equally done. Thicken the gravy with a
little butter and flour worked together on a plate ; let it just boil up

VEGETABLES.

597

after the thickening is added, and serve. If it be at hand, these
should he served on a silver or plated vegetable-dish.

Time. — 20 to 2.5 minutes, very gentle stewing.

Average cost, in full season, 9d. per basket.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in August, September, and October ; but may be had,
forced, much earlier.

The Tomato, or Love-apple.- — This vegetable is a native of Mexico and South.
America, but is also found in the East Indies, where it is supposed to have been intro-
duced by the Spaniards. In this country it is much more cultivated than it formerly
was ; and the more the community becomes acquainted with the many agreeable forms
in which the fruit can be prepared, the more widely will its cultivation be extended.
Eor ketchup, soups, and sauces, it is equally applicable, and the unripe fruit makes one
of the best pickles.

TRUFFLES AU NATUREL.

1161. Ingredients. — Truffles, buttered paper.

Mode. — Select some tine truffles; cleanse them, by washing them
in several waters with a brush, until not a particle of sand or grit
remains on them ; wrap each truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a
hot oven for quite an hour ; take off the paper, wipe the truffles, and
serve them in a hot napkin.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost. — Not often bought in this country.

Seasonable from November to March.

The Commoh Teuefle. — This is the Tuber
cibarium of science, and belongs to that nume-
rous class of esculent fungi distinguished from
other vegetables not only by the singularity of
their forms, but by their chemical composition.

Upon analysis, they are found not only to contain
the usual components of the vegetable kingdom,
such as carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen, but like-
wise a large proportion of nitrogen ; from which
they approach more nearly to the nature of ani-
mal flesh. It was long ago observed by Dr. Dar-
win, that all the mushrooms cooked at our tables,
as well as those used for ketchup, possessed an
animal flavour ; and soup enriched by mushrooms only has sometimes been supposed
to contain meat.

TO DRESS TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE.

1162. Ingredients. — 12 fine black truffles, a few slices of fat bacon,
1 carrot, 1 turnip, 2 onions, a bunch of savoury herbs, including
parsley, 1 bay-leaf, 2 cloves, 1 blade of pounded mace, 2 glasses of
champagne, | pint of stock.

Mode. — Carefully select the truffles, reject those that have a musty
smell, and wash them well with a brush, in cold water only, until
perfectly clean. Put the hacon into a stewpan, with the truffles and
the remaining ingredients.; simmer these gently for an hour, and let
the whole cool in the stewpan. "When to be served, rewarm them,

598

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and drain them on a clean cloth ; then arrange them on a delicafcely-
white napkin, that it may contrast as strongly as possible with the
truffles, and serve. The trimmings of truffles are used to flavour
gravies, stock, sauces, &c. ; and'are an excellent addition to ragouts,
made dishes of fowl, &c.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost. — Not often bought in this country.

Seasonable from November to March.

The Truffle. — The Truffle belongs to the family of the Mushroom. It is certain
that the truffle must possess, equally with other plants, organs of reproduction ; yet,
notwithstanding all the efforts of art and science, it has been impossible to subject it to
a regular culture. Truffles grow at a considerable depth under the earth, never appear-
ing on the surface. They are found in many parts of France : those of Perigord and
, Magny are the most esteemed for their odour. There are three varieties of the species,
— the black, the red, and the white : the latter are of little value. The red are very
rare, and their use is restricted. The black has the highest repute, and its consumption
is enormous. When the peasantry go to gather truffles, they take a pig with them to
scent out the spot where they grow. When that is found, the pig turns up the surface
with his snout, and the men then dig until they find the truflles. Good truffles are
easily distinguished by their agreeable perfume ; they should be light in proportion to
their size, and elastic when pressed by the finger. To have them in perfection, they
should be quite fresh, as their aroma is considerably diminished by any conserving pro-
cess. Truffles are stimulating and heating. Weak stomachs digest them with difficulty.
Some of the culinary uses to which they are subjected render them more digestible ; but
they should always be eaten sparingly. Their chief use is in seasoning and garnitures.
In short, a professor has said, “Meats with truffles are the most distinguished dishes
that opulence can offer to the epicure.” The Truffle grows in clusters, some inches
below the surface of the soil, and is of an irregular globular form. Those which grow
wild in England are about the size of a hen’s egg, and have no roots. As there is
nothing to indicate the places where they are, dogs have been trained to discriminate
their scent, by which they are discovered. Hogs are very fond of them, and frequently
lead to their being found, from their rutting tip the ground in search of them.

ITALIAN MODE OE DRESSING TRIJEELES.

1163. Ingredients. — 10 truffles, \ pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt
to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very little tinely-minced
garlic, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

Mode. — After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into
thin slices, and put them in a baking-dish, on a seasoning of oil,
pepper, salt, parsley, garlic, and mace in the above proportion. Bake
them for nearly an hour, and, just before serving, add the lemon-juice,
and send them to table very hot.

Time. --Nearly 1 hour.

Average cost. — Not often bought in this country.

Seasonable from November to March.

Where Truffles are found.— In this country, the common truffle is found on the
downs of Hampshire, Wiltshire, and Kent ; and they abound in dry light soils, and more
especially in oak and chestnut forests. In France they are plentiful, and many nro
imported from the south of that country and Italy, where they are much larger and in
greater perfection : they lose, however, much of their flavour by drying. Truffles have
m England been tried to be propagated artificially, but without success.

TRUFFLES A L’lTALIENNE.

1164. Ingredients. — 10 truffles, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley,
1 minced shalot, salt and pepper to taste, 2 oz. of butter, 2 table-

VEGETABLES.

599

spoonfuls of good brown gravy, the juice of i lemon, cayenne to
taste.

Mode. — Wash the truffles and cut them into slices about the size of
a penny-piece ; put them into a saute pan, with the paisley, shalot,
salt, pepper, and 1 oz. of butter ; stir them over the fire, that they
may all be equally done, which will be in about 10 minutes, and drain
off some of the butter ; then add a little more fresh butter, 2 table-
spoonfuls of good gravy, the juice of i lemon, and a little cayenne;
stir over the fire until the whole is on the point of boiling, when serve.

T/me.— Altogether, 20 minutes.

Average cost. — Not often bought in this country.

Seasonable from November to March.

Uses op the Truffle. — Like the Morel, truffles are seldem eaten alone, hut are
much used in gravies, soups, and ragouts. They are likewise dried for the winter months,
and, when reduced to powder, form a useful culinary ingredient ; they, however, have
many virtues attributed to them which they do not possess. Their wholesomeness is,
perhaps, questionable, and they should be eaten with moderation.

BOILED TURNIPS.

1165. Ingredients. — Turnips; to each 5 gallon of water allow 1
heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode. — Pare the turnips, and, should they be very large, divide
them into quarters ; but, unless this is the case, let them be cooked
whole. Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the
above proportion, and let them boil gently until tender. Try them
with a fork, and, when done, take them up in a colander ; let them
thoroughly drain, and serve. Boiled turnips are usually sent to table
with boiled mutton, but are infinitely nicer when mashed than served
whole : unless nice and young, they are scarcely worth the trouble of
dressing plainly as above.

Time. — Old turnips, § to lj hour; young ones, about 18 to 20
minutes.

Average cost, 4 d. per bunch.

Sufficient. — Allow a bunch of 12 turnips for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — May be had all the year ; but in spring only useful for
flavouring gravies, &c.

The Turnip. — This vegetable is the Brassica
2tapa of science, and grows wild in England, but
cannot be brought exactly to resemble what it
becomes in a cultivated state. It is said to -have
been originally introduced from Hanover, and
forms an excellent culinary vegetable, much used
all over Europe, where it is either eaten alone or
mashed and cooked in soups and stews. They do
not thrive in a hot climate ; for in India they, and
many more of our garden vegetables, lose their
flavour and become comparatively tasteless. The
Swede is the largest variety, but it is too coarse-
for the table.

TURNIPS.

coo

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

MASHED TURNIPS.

1166. Ingredients. — 10 'or 12 large turnips ; to each 5 gallon of
water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 2 oz. of butter, cayenne or
white pepper to taste.

Mode. — Pare the turnips, quarter them, and put them into boiling
water, salted in the above proportion ; boil them until tender ; then
drain them in a colander, and squeeze them as dry as possible by
pressing them with the back of a large plate. When quite free from
water, rub the turnips with a wooden spoon through the colander,
and put them into a very clean saucepan; add the butter, white
pepper, or cayenne, and, if necessary, a little salt. Keep stirring
them over the fire until the butter is well mixed with them, and the
turnips are thoroughly hot ; dish, and serve. A little cream or milk
added after the turnips are pressed through the colander, is an im-
provement to both the colour and flavour of this vegetable.

Time. — From 4 to 3 hour to boil the turnips ; 10 minutes to warm
them through.

Average cost, 4 d. per bunch.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable. — May be had all the year ; but in spring only good for
flavouring gravies.

Vegetables reduced 10 Puree. — Persons in the flower of youth, having healthy
stomachs, and leading active lives, may eat all sorts of vegetables, without inconvenience,
save, of course, in excess. The digestive functions possess great energy during the
period of youth : the body, to develop itself, needs nourishment. Physicul exercise gives
an appetite, which it is necessary to satisfy, and vegetables cannot resist the vigorous
action of the gastric organs. An old proverb says, “ At twenty one can digest iron." But
for aged persons, the sedentary, or the delicate, it is quite otherwise. Then the gastric
power has considerably diminished, the digestive organs have lost their energy, the process
of digestion is consequently slower, and the least excess at table is followed by derangement
of the stomach for several days. Those who generally digest vegetables with difficulty,
should eat them reduced to a pulp or puree, that is to say, with their skins and tough fibres
removed. Subjected to this process, vegetables which, when entire, would create flatulence
and wind, are then comparatively harmless. Experience has established the rule, that
nourishment is not complete without the alliance of meat with vegetables. We would
also add, that the regime most favourable to health is fouud in variety : variety pleases
the senses, monotony is disagreeable. The eye is fatigued by looking always on one
object, the ear by listening to one sound, and the palate by tasting one flavour. It is the
same with the stomach : consequently, variety of food is one of the essentials for securing
good digestion.

GERMAN MODE OP COOKING TURNIPS.

1167. Ingredients. — 8 large turnips, 3 oz. of butter, pepper and
salt to taste, rather more than 4 pint of weak stock or broth, 1 table-
spoonful of flour.

Mode. — Make the butter hot in a stewpan, lay in the turnips, after
having pared and cut them into dice, and season them with pepper
and salt. Toss them over the fire for a few minutes, then add the
broth, and simmer the whole gently till the turnips are tender. Brown

VEGETABLES.

601

the above proportion of flour with a little butter ; add this to the
turnips, let them simmer another 5 minutes, and serve. Boiled mut-
ton is usually sent to table with this vegetable, and may be cooked
with the turnips by placing it in the midst of them : the meat would
then be very delicious, as, there being so little liquid with the turnips,
it would almost be steamed, and consequently very tender.

Time— 20 minutes. Average cost, id. per bunch.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable.— May be had all the year.

Turnups. — Good turnips are delicate in texture, firm, and sweet. The best sorts con-
tain a sweet juicy mucuage, uniting with the aroma a slightly acid quality, which is
completely neutralized in cooking. The turnip is prepared in a variety of ways. Ducks
stufi’ed with turnips have been highly appreciated. It is useful in the regimen of persons
afflicted with chronic visceral irritations. The turnip only creates flatulency when it is
soft, porous, and stringy. It is then, consequently, bad.

TURNIPS IN WHITE SAUCE.

(An Entremets, or to be served with the Second Course as a

Side-dish.)

it 68. Ingredients. — 7 or 8 turnips, l oz. of butter, % pint of
white sauce, No. 538 or 539.

Mode. — Peel and cut the turnips in the shape of pears or marbles ;
boil them in salt and water, to which has been added a little butter,
until tender; then take them out, drain, arrange them on a dish,
and pour -over the white sauce made by recipe No. 538 or 539, and to
which has been added a small lump of sugar. In winter, when other
vegetables are scarce, this will be found a very good and pretty-looking
dish : when approved, a little mustard may be added to the sauce.

Time. — About f hour to boil the turnips.

Average cost, id. per bunch.

Sufficient for 1 side-dish. Seasonable in winter.

The Fbench Navet. — This is a variety of the turnip ; but, instead of being globular,
lias more the shape of the carrot. Its flavour being excellent, it is much esteemed on
the Continent for soups and made dishes. Two or three of them will impart as much
flavour as a dozen of the common turnips will. Accordingly, when stewed in gravy, they
are greatly relished. This flavour resides in the rind, which is not cut off1, but scraped.
This variety was once grown in England, but now it is rarely found in our gardens,
though highly deserving of a place there. It is of a yellowish-white colour, and is some-
times imported to the London market.

BOILED TURNIP GREENS.

1169. Ingredients.— To each % gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt ; turnip-greens.

Mode. — Wash the greens well in two or three waters, and pick off
all the decayed and dead leaves ; tie them in small bunches, and put
them into plenty of boiling water, salted in the above proportion.
Keep them boiling quickly, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered,

602

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and when tender, pour them into a colander ; let them drain, arrange
them in a vegetable -dish, remove the string that the greens were tied
with, and serve.

Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 4 d. for a dish for 3 persons.

Seasonable in March, April, and May.

Cabbage Turnip-tops, and Gbbenb.— All the cabbage tribe, which comprises cole-
worts, brocoli, cauliflower, sprouts, and turnip-tops, in order to be delicate, should be
dressed young, when they have a rapid growth ; but, if they have stood the summer in
order to be t ender, they should be allowed to have a touch of frost. The cabbage contains
much vegetable albumen, and several parts sulphur and nitrate of potass. Cabbage is
heavy, and a long time digesting, "which has led to a belief that it is very nourishing. It
is only lit lood lor robust and active persons; the sedentary or delicate should carefully
avoid it. Cabbage may be prepared in a variety of ways : it serves as a garniture to
se\ eral recherche dishes, — partridge and cabbage for example. Bacon and cabbage is a
very favourite dish; but only a good stomach can digest it.

BOILED VEGETABLE MARROW.

117°- Ingredients. — To each £ gallon, of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt ; vegetable marrows.

Mode. — Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, salted in the above
proportion ; put in the marrows after peeling them, and boil them
until quite tender. Take them up with a slice,
halve, and, should they be very large, quarter
them. Dish them on toast, and send to table
on toast. with them a tureen of melted butter, or, in lieu

of this, a small pat of salt butter. Large vegetable marrows may be
preserved throughout the winter by storing them in a dry place ; when
wanted for use, a few slices should be cut and boiled in the same
manner as above ; hut, when once begun, the marrow must he eaten
quickly, as it keeps hut a short time after it is cut. Vegetable marrows
are also very delicious mashed : they should he boiled, then drained,
and mashed smoothly with a wooden spoon. Heat them in a saucepan,
add a seasoning of salt and pepper, and a small piece of butter, and
dish with a few sippets of toasted bread placed round as a garnish.

Time. — Young vegetable marrows 10 to 20 minutes ; old ones, A to
f hour.

Average cost, in full season, Is. per dozen.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 moderate-sized marrow for each person.

Seasonable in July, August, and September ; but may be preserved
all the winter.

EBIED VEGETABLE MAEHOW.

1171. Ingredients. — 3 medium-sized vegetable marrows, egg and
bread crumbs, hot lard.

Mode.— Peel, and boil the marrows until tender in salt and water ;
then drain them and cut them in' quarters, and take out the seeds.

VEGETABLES.

603

When thoroughly drained, brush the marrows over "with egg, and
'sprinkle with bread crumbs ; have ready some hot lard, fry the
marrow in this, and, when of a nice brown, dish ; sprinkle over a
little salt and pepper, and serve. <

Time. — About k hour to boil the marrow, 7
minutes to fry it.

Average cost, in full season, Is. per dozen.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable in July, August, and September.*

The Vegetable Maeeow. — This vegetable is now exten-
sively used, and belongs to the Cucurbits. It is the C. ovifera
of science, and, like the melon, gourd, cucumber, and squash,
is widely diffused in the tropical or warmer regions of the
globe. Of the nature of this family we have already spoken
when treating of the cucumber. vegetable maeeovt.

CUT VEGETABLES FOR SOUPS, &e.

1172. The annexed engraving represents a cutter for shaping vege-
tables for soups, ragouts, stews, &c. ; carrots and
turnips being the usual vegetables for which this
utensil is used. Cut the vegetables into slices
about \ inch in thickness, stamp them out with
the cutter, and boil them for a few minutes in salt
and water, until tender. Turnips should be cut
in rather thicker slices than carrots, on account
of the former boiling more quickly to a pulp than
the latter.

Cabbots— Several species of carrots are cultivated,— the red, the yellow, and the white.
Those known as the Crecy carrots are considered the best, and are very sweet. The
carrot has been classed by hygienists among flatulent vegetables, and as difficult of
digestion. . When the root becomes old, it is almost as hard as wood; but the young
carrot, which has not reached its full growth, is tender, relishing, nutritious, and digests
well when properly cooked.

VEGETABLE MARROWS EXT WHITE SAUCE.

1173. Ingredients.— 4 or 5 moderate-sized marrows, £ pint of
white sauce, No. 539. •

3/ocZe.— Pare the marrows ; cut them in halves, and shape each half
at the top in a point, leaving the bottom end
flat for it to stand upright in the dish. Boil
the marrows in salt and water until tender ;
take them up very carefully, and arrange
them on a hot dish. Have ready l pint of
white sauce, made by recipe No. 539 ; pour this over the marrows,
and serve.

VEGETABLE MAEEOW IH
WHITE SAUCE.

G04

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes to boil the marrows.

Average cost, in full season, Is. per dozen.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in July, August, and September.

BOILED INDIAN WHEAT or MAIZE.

1174. Ingredients. — The ears of young and green Indian wheat ;
to every £ gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

Mode. — This vegetable, which makes one of the most delicious
dishes brought to table, is unfortunately very rarely seen in Britain ;
and we wonder that, in the gardens of the wealthy, it is not invariably
cultivated. Our sun, it is true, possesses hardly power sufficient to
ripen maize ; but, with well-prepared ground, and in a favourable
position, it might be sufficiently advanced by the beginning of autumn
to serve as a vegetable. The outside sheath being taken off and the
waving fibres removed, let the ears be placed in boiling water, where
they should remain for about 25 minutes (a longer time may be
necessary for larger ears than ordinary) ; and, when sufficiently boiled
and well drained, they may be sent to table whole, and with a piece
of toast underneath them. Melted butter should be served with
them.

Time. — 25 to 35 minutes. Average cost. — Seldom bought.

Sufficient, — 1 ear for each person. Seasonable in autumn.

Note. — William Cobbett, the English radical writer and politician, was a
great cultivator and admirer of maize, and constantly ate it as a vegetable,
boiled. We believe he printed a special recipe for it, but we have been unable
to lay our hands on it. Mr. Buchanan, the present president of the United
States, was in the habit, when ambassador here, of receiving a supply of
Indian corn from America in hermetically-sealed cases ; and the publisher of
this work remembers, with considerable satisfaction, his introduction to a dish
of this vegetable, when in America. He found it to combine the excellences
of the young green pea and the finest asparagus ; but he felt at first slightly
awkward in holding the large ear with one hand, whilst the other had to be
employed in cutting off with a knife the delicate green grains.

CHAPTER XXYI.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON ‘PUDDINGS AND

PASTRY.

1175. Puddings and Pastry, familiar as they may be, and unimportant as
they may be held in the estimation of some, are yet intimately connected with
the development of agricultural resources in reference to the cereal grasses.
When they began to be made is uncertain ; but we may safely presume, that
a simple form of pudding was amongst the first dishes made after discovering
a mode of grinding wheat into flour. Traditional history enables us to trace
man back to the time of the Deluge. After that event he seems to have
recovered himself in the central parts of Asia, and to have first risen to
eminence in the arts of civilization on the banks of the Nile. From this region,
Greece, Carthage, and some other parts along the shores of the Mediterranean
Sea, were colonized. In process of time, Greece gave to the Romans the arts
which she had thus received from Egypt, and these subsequently diffused them
over Europe. How these were carried to or developed in India and China, is
not so well ascertained ; and in America their ancient existence rests only on
very indistinct traditions. As to who was the real discoverer of the use of
corn, we have no authentic knowledge. The traditions of different countries
ascribe it to various fabulous personages, whoso names it is here unnecessary
to introduce. In Egypt, however, corn must have grown abundantly ; for
Abraham, and after him Jacob, had recourse to that country for supplies
during times of famine.

606

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1 1 76. The Habits op a People, to a great extent, are formed by tbo
climate in which they live, and by the native or cultivated productions in
which their country abounds. Thus we find that the agricultural produce of
the ancient Egyptians is pretty much the same as that of the present day,
and the habits of the people are not materially altered. In Greece, the
products cultivated in antiquity were the same kinds of grains and legumes
as are cultivated at present, with the vine, the fig, the olive, the apple, and
other fruits. So with the Romans, and so with other nations. As to the
different modes of artificially preparing these to please the taste, it is only
necessary to say that they arise from the universal desire of novelty, charac-
teristic of man in the development of his social conditions. Thus has arisen
the whole science of cookery, and thus arose the art of making puddings.
The porridge of the Scotch in nothing more than a species of hasty pudding,
composed of 'oatmeal,, salt, and water ; and the " red pottage ” for which Esau
sold his birthright, must have been something similar. The barley-gruel of
the Lacedtemaniaus, of the Athenian gladiators and common people, was the
same, with the exception of the slight seasoning it had beyond, the simplicity
of Scottish fare. Here is the ancient recipe for the Athenian national dish : —
"Dry near the fire, in the oven, twenty pounds of barley-flour then parch
it ; add three pounds of linseed-meal, half a pound of coriander-seed, two
ounces of salt, and the quantity of water necessary.” To this sometimes
a little millet was added, in order to give the paste greater cohesion and
delicacy.

1177. Oatmeal amongst the Greeks and Romans was highly esteemed,
as was also rice, which they considered as beneficial to the chest. They also
held in high repute the Irion, or Indian wheat of the moderns. The flour of
this cereal was made into a kind of hasty pudding, and, parched or roasted,
was eaten with a little salt. The Spelt, or Red wheat, was likewise esteemed,
and its flour formed the basis of the Carthaginian pudding, for which we here
give the scientific recipe : — "Put a pound of red-wheat flour into water, and
when it has steeped some time, transfer it to a wooden bowl. Add three pounds
of cream cheese, half a pound of honey, and one egg. Beat the whole together,
and cook it on a slow fire in a stewpan.” Should this be considered unpalatable,
another form has been recommended. "Sift the flour, and, with some water,
put it into a wooden vessel, and, for ten days, renew the water twice each
day. At the end of that period, press out the water and place the paste in
another vessel. It is now to be reduced to the consistence of thick lees, and
passed through a piece of new linen. Repeat this last operation, then dry the
mass in the sun and boil it in milk. Season according to taste.” These are
specimens of the puddings of antiquity, and this last recipe was held in
especial favour by the Romans.

117S. However great may have been the qualifications of the
ancients, however, in the art of pudding-making, we apprehend that such
preparations as gave gratification to their palates, would have generally found

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

007

little favour amongst tho insulated inhabitants of Great Britain. Here, from
the simple suet dumpling up to tho most complicated Christmas production,
the grand feature of substantiality is primarily attended to. Variety in the
ingredients, we think, is held only of secondary consideration with the great
body of the people, provided that the whole is agreeable and of sufficient
abundance.

1179. Although from Puddings to Pastry is but a step, it requires a
higher degree of art to make the one than to make the other. Indeed,
pastry is one of the most important branches of the culinary science. It
unceasingly occupies itself with ministering pleasure to the sight as well as
to the taste ; with erecting graceful monuments, miniature fortresses, and all
kinds of architectural imitations, composed of the sweetest and most agreeable
products of all climates and countries. At a very early period, the Ox-ientals
were acquainted with the art of manipulating in pastry ; but they by no
means attained to the taste, variety, and splendour of design, by which
it is characterized amongst the moderns. At first it generally consisted of
certain mixtures of flour, oil, and honey, to which it was confined for centuries,
even among the southern nations of the European continent. At the com-
mencement of the middle ages, a change began to take place in the art of
mixing it. Eggs, butter, and salt came into repute in the making of paste,
which was forthwith used as an inclosure for meat, seasoned with spices.
This advance attained, the next step was to inclose cream, fruit, and mar-
malades ; and the next, to build pyramids and castles ; when the summit of the
art of the pastry-cook may be supposed to have been achieved.

DIRECTIONS IN CONNECTION WITH THE MAKING OF
PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

1180. A few general remarks respecting the various ingredients
of which puddings and pastry are composed, may be acceptable
as preliminary to the recipes in this department of Household
Management.

1181. Flour should he of the best quality, and perfectly dry, and
sifted before being used ; if in the least damp, the paste made from
it will certainly be heavy.

1182. Butter, unless fresh is used, should be washed from the salt,
and well squeezed and wrung in a cloth, to get out all the water
and buttermilk, which, if left in, assists to make the paste heavy.

608

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1183. Lard should be perfectly sweet, which may be ascertained by
cutting the bladder through, and, if the knife smells sweet, the lard
is good.

1184. Suet should be finely chopped, perfectly free from skin, and
quite sweet; during the process of chopping, it should be lightly
dredged with flour, which prevents the pieces from sticking together.
Beef suet is considered the best ; but veal suet, or the outside fat of
a loin or neck of mutton, makes good crusts ; as also the skimmings in
which a joint of mutton has been boiled, but without vegetables.

1 1 85. Clarified Beef Dripping, directions for which will be found
in recipes Nos. 621 and 622, answers very well for kitchen pies,
puddings, cakes, or for family use. A very good short crust may be
made by mixing with it a small quantity of moist sugar ; but care
must be taken to use the dripping sparingly, or a very disagreeable
flavour will be imparted to the paste.

1186. Strict cleanliness must be observed in pastry-making ; all the

utensils used should be perfectly free
from dust and dirt, and the things re-
quired for pastry, kept entirely for that
purpose.

1187. In mixing paste, add the water
very gradually, work the whole together
with the knife-blade, and knead it until
perfectly smooth. Those who are inexpe-
rienced in pastry-making, should work
the butter in by breaking it in small
paste-board AND rolling-pin. ^eceg an(j covering the paste rolled out.

It should then be dredged with flour, and the ends folded over and

rolled out very thin again: this

process must be repeated until all
the butter is used.

1188. The art of making past/
requires much practice, dexte-

S rity, and skill: it should be

touched as lightly as possible, made with cool hands and in a cool
place (a marble slab is better than a board for the purpose), and the
coolest part of the house should be selected for the process during

warm weather.

PASTE-PINCERS AND JAGGER, FOR
ORNAMENTING THE EDGES OF FIB-CRUSTS.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

G09

nOg. To insure rich paste being light, great expedition must be
used in the making and baking ; for if it stand long before it is put in
the oven, it becomes flat and heavy.

PASTE-CUTTER AND CORNER-CUTTER. ORNAMENTAL-PASTE CUTTER.

1 190. Puff-paste requires a brisk oven, but not too hot, or it would
blacken the crust ; on the other hand, if the oven be too slack, the
paste will be soddened, and will not rise, nor will it have any colour.

PATTY-PANS, PLAIN AND FLUTED. PIE-DISH.

Tart-tins, cake-moulds, dishes for baked puddings, pattypans, &c.,
should all be buttered before the article intended to be baked is put
in them : things to be baked on sheets should be placed on buttered

RAISED-PIE MOULD. RAISED-PIE MOULD, OPEN.

paper. Raised -pie paste should have a soaking heat, and paste
glazed must have rather a slack oven, that the icing be not scorched.
It is better to ice tarts, &c. when they are three-parts baked.

1191. To ascertain when the oven is heated to the proper degree for
puff-paste, put a small piece of the paste in previous to baking the
whole, and then the heat can thus be judged of.

1192. The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much import-
ance, as one bad article will taint the whole mixture.

>193- When the freshness of eggs is doubtful, break each one

2 R

G10

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

separately in a cup, before mixing them altogether. Should there be
a bad one amongst them, it can be thrown away; whereas, if mixed
with the good ones, the entire quantity would be spoiled. The yolks
and whites beaten separately make the articles they are put into
much lighter.

1194. Raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully
picked, and, in many cases, stoned. Currants should be well washed,
pressed in a cloth, and placed on a dish before the fire to get
thoroughly dry ; they should then be picked carefully over, and every
piece of grit or stone removed from amongst them. To plump them,
some cooks pour boiling water over them, and then dry them before
the fire.

1195. Batter pudding should be smoothly mixed and free from
lumps. To insure this, first mix the flour with a very small
proportion of milk, and add the remainder by degrees. Should
the pudding be very lumpy, it may be strained through a hair
sieve.

1196. All boiled puddings should be put on in boiling v.'ater, which
must not be allowed to stop simmering, and
the pudding must always be covered with the
water ; if requisite, the saucepan should be
kept filled up.

1197. To prevent a pudding boiled in a cloth
from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan,
place a small plate or saucer underneath it,
boiled-pudding mould. and set the pan on a trivet over the fire. If
a mould is used, this precaution is not neces-
sary ; hut care must be taken to keep the pudding well covered
with water.

1198. For dishing a boiled pudding as soon as it comes out of the

pot, dip it into a basin of cold water,
and the cloth will then not adhere to
it. Great expedition is necessary in
sending puddings to table, as, by
standing, they quickly become heavy,

boiled-pudding moulu. batter puddings particularly.

1199. For baked or boiled puddings, the moulds, cups, or basins,

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

611

should be always buttered before the mixture is put in them, and
they should be put into the saucepan directly they are filled.

1200. Scrupulous attention should be paid to the cleanliness of
pudding-cloths, as, from neglect in this particular, the outsides of
boiled puddings frequently taste very dis-
agreeably. As soon as possible after it is
taken off the pudding, it should be soaked
in water, and then well washed, without
soap, unless it te very greasy. It should
be dried out of doors, then folded up and
kept in a dry place. When wanted for
use, dip it in boiling water, and dredge it slightly with flour.

1201. The dry ingredients for puddings are better for being mixed
some time before they are wanted ; the liquid portion should only be
added just before the pudding is put into the saucepan.

1202. A pinch of salt is an improvement to the generality of
puddings ; but this ingredient should be added very sparingly, as the
flavour should not be detected.

1203. When baked puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of
the dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over
them fine sifted sugar.

1204. When pastry or baked puddings are not done through, and
yet the outside is sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of
white paper until thoroughly cooked : this prevents them from getting •
burnt.

2 R 2

RECIPES

CHAPTER XXVII.

VERY GOOD PDEP-PASTE.

1205. Ingredients. —To every lb. of flour allow 1 lb. of butter,
and not quite f pint of water.

Mode. — Carefully weigh the flour and butter, and have the exact
proportion ; squeeze the butter well, to extract the water from it,
and afterwards wring it in a clean cloth, that no moisture may
remain. Sift the flour ; see that it is perfectly dry, and proceed in
the following manner to make the paste, using a very clean paste-
board and rolling-pin : — Supposing the quantity to be 1 lb. of flour,
work the whole into a smooth paste, with not quite \ pint of water, using
a knife to mix it with : the proportion of this latter ingredient must
be regulated by the discretion of the cook ; if too much be added, the
paste, when baked, will be tough. Roll it out until it is of an equal
thickness of about an inch ; break 4 oz. of the butter into small
pieces ; place these on the paste, sift over it a little flour, fold it over,
roll out again, and put another 4 oz. of butter. Repeat the rolling and
buttering until the paste has been rolled out 4 times, or equal quan-
tities of flour and butter have been used. Do not omit, every time
the paste is rolled out, to dredge a little flour over that and the
rolling-pin, to prevent both from sticking. Handle the paste as lightly
as possible, and do not press heavily upon it with the rolling-pin.
The next thing to be considered is the oven, as the baking of pastry
requires particular attention. Do not put it into the oven until it is
sufficiently hot to raise the paste ; for the best-prepared paste, if not
properly baked, will be good for nothing. Brushing the paste as often
as rolled out, and the pieces of butter placed thereon, with the white
of an egg, assists it to rise in leaves or flakes. As this is the great
beauty of puff-paste, it is as well to try this method.

Average cost, Is. id. per lb.

Buttee.— About tlio second century of the Christian era, butter was placed by Galeu
amongst the useful medical agents; and about a century before him, Bioscorides men-
tioned Unit he had noticed that fresh butter, made of ewes' and gouts’ milk, was served
at meals instead of oil, and that it look the place of fat in making pastry. Thus we have
undoubted authority that, eighteen hundred years ago, there existed a knowledge of tlio

TUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

G13

useful qualities of butter. The Homans seem to hare set about making it much ns we
do; for Pliny tells us, “ Butter is mude from milk ; and the use of this aliment, so much
sought after "by barbarous nations, distinguished the rich from the common people. It
is obtained principally from cows’ milk; that from ewes is the fattest; goats also supply
some. It is produced by agitating the milk in long vessels with narrow openings; a
little water is added.”

MEDIUM PUEE-PASTE.

1206. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow 8 oz. of butter,
4 oz. of lard, not quite i pint of water.

Mode. — This paste may be made by the directions in the preceding
recipe, only using less butter and substituting lard for a portion of it.
Mix the flour to a smooth paste with not quite § pint of water ; then
roll it out 3 times, the first time covering the paste with butter, the
second with lard, and the third with butter. Keep the rolling-pin
and paste slightly dredged with flour, to prevent them from sticking,
and it will be ready for use.

Average cost, Is. per lb.

Btjiteb ix Haste. — In his “ History of Food,” Soyer says that to obtain butter
instantly, it is only necessary, in summer, to put new milk into a bottle, some hours
after it has been taken from the cow, and shake it briskly. The clots which are thus
formed should be thrown into a sieve, washed and pressed together, and they constitute
the finest and most delicate butter that can possibly be made.

COMMON PASTE, for Family Pies.

1207. Ingredients.— 1 j lb. of flour, lb. of butter, rather more
than | pint of water.

Mode. — Rub the butter lightly into the flour, and mix it to a
smooth paste with the water ; roll it out 2 or 3 times, and it will
he ready for use. This paste may be converted into an excellent
short crust for sweet tart, by adding to the flour, after the butter is
rubbed in, 2 tablespoonfuls of fine-sifted sflgar.

Average cost, 8 d. per lb.

To keep Butter Fresh. — One of the best means to preserve butter fresh is, first to
completely press out all the buttermilk, then to keep it under water, renewing the water
frequently, and to remove it from the influence of heat and air, by wrapping it in a
wet cloth.

FEENCH PUFF-PASTE, or FEUILLETAGE.

(Founded on M. Ude's Recipe.)

1208. Ingredients.— Equal quantities of flour and butter— say
1 lb. of each ; a saltspoonful of salt, the yolks of 2 eggs, rather more
than j pint of water.

Mode. — Weigh the flour; ascertain that it is perfectly dry, and sift
it ; squeeze all the water from the butter, and wring it in a clean cloth
till there is no moisture remaining. Put the flour on the paste-board,
work lightly into it 2 oz. of the butter, and then make a hole in
the centre ; into this well put the yolks of 2 eggs, the salt, and about

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

014

T pint of water (the quantity of this latter ingredient must be regu-
lated by the cook, as it is impossible to give the exact proportion of
it) ; knead up the paste quickly and lightly, and, when quite smooth,
roll it out square to the thickness of about -J inch. Presuming that the
butter is perfectly free from moisture, and as cool as possible, roll it
into a ball, and place this ball of butter on the paste ; fold the paste
over the butter all round, and secure it by wrapping it well all over.
Flatten the paste by rolling it lightly with the rolling-pin until it is
quite thin, but not thin enough to allow the butter to break through,
and keep the board and paste dredged lightly with flour during the
process of making it. This rolling gives it the first turn. Now fold the
paste in three, and roll out again, and, should the weather be very warm,
put it in a cold place on the ground to cool between the several turns ;
for, unless this is particularly attended to, the paste will be spoiled.
Noll out the paste again twice, put it by to cool, then roll it out twice
more, which will make 6 turnings in all. Now fold the paste in two,
and it will be ready for use. If properly baked and well made, this
crust will be delicious, and should rise in the oven about 5 or 6 inches.
The paste should be made rather firm in the first instance, as the ball
of butter is liable to break through. Great attention must also be paid
to keeping the butter very cool, as, if this is in a liquid and soft state,
the paste will not answer at all. Should the cook be dexterous
enough to succeed in making this, the paste will have a much better
appearance than that made by the process of dividing the butter into
4 parts, and placing it over the rolled-out paste ; but, until experience
has been acquired, we recommend puff-paste made by recipe No. 1205.
The above paste is used for vols-au-vent, small articles of pastry, and,
in fact, everything that requires very light crust.

Average cost, Is. 6 d. per lb.

What to no with Rancid Buttee. — When butter has become very rancid, it should
be melted several times by a moderate heat, with or without the addition of water, and
as soon as it has been well kneaded, after the cooling, in order to extract any water it
may have retained, it should be put into brown freestone pots, sheltered from the contact
of {he air. The Trench often add to it, after it has been melted, a piece of toasted bread,
which helps to destroy the tendency of the butter to rancidity.

SOYER’S RECIPE POE PUFF-PASTE.

1209. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow the yolk of 1 egg,
the juice of 1 lemon, 1 saltspoonful of salt, cold water, 1 lb. of fresh
butter.

Mode. — Put. the flour on to the paste-board; make a hole in the
centre, into which put the yolk of the egg, the lemon-juice, and salt;
mix the whole with cold water (this should be iced in summer, if
convenient) into a soft flexible paste, with the right hand, and handle
it as little as possible ; then squeeze all the buttermilk from the

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

615

butter, ■wring; it in a cloth, and roll out the paste ; place the butter
on this, and fold the edges of the paste oyer, so as to hide it ; roll it
out again to the thickness of \ inch ; fold oyer one third, over which
again pass the rolling-pin ; then fold oyer the other third, thus
forming a square ; place it with the ends, top, and bottom before you,
shaking a little flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and
turns twice again, as before. Flour a baking-sheet, put the paste on
this, and let it remain on ice or in some cool place for i hour ; then
roll twice more, turning it as before ; place it again upon the ice for
1 hour, give it 2 more rolls, making 7 in all, and it is ready for use
when required.

Average cost, Is. 6(7. per lb.

VEEY GOOD SHOET CRUST FOR FRUIT TARTS.

1210. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow f lb. of butter,
1 tablespoonful of sifted sugar, j pint of water.

Mode. — Rub the butter into the flour, after haying ascertained that
the latter is perfectly dry ; add the sugar, and mix the whole into a
stiff paste, with about j pint of water. Roll it out two or three times,
folding the paste over each time, and it will be ready for use.

Average cost, Is. id. per lb.

ANOTHER GOOD SHORT CRUST.

1211. Ingredients.— To every lb. of flour allow 8 oz. of butter, the
yolks of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, about \ pint of milk.

Mode. — Rub the butter into the flour, add the sugar, and mix the
whole as lightly as possible to a smooth paste, with the yolks of eggs
wTell beaten, and the milk. The proportion of the latter ingredient
must be judged of by the size of the eggs : if these are large, so much
will not be required, and more if the eggs are smaller.

Average cost, Is. per lb.

Su gab and Beetroot. — There are two sorts'of Beet, — white aud red ; occasionally, in
the Bouth, a yellow variety is met with. Beetroot contains twenty parts sugar. Everybody
knows that the beet has competed with the sugar-cane, and a great part of the French
sugar is manufactured from beet. Beetroot has arefreshing, composing, and slightly pur-
gative quality. The young leaves, when cooked, area substitute for spinach ; they are also
useful for mixing with sorrel, to lessen its acidity. The large ribs of the leaves are ser-
viceable in various culinary preparations ; the root also may be prepared in several ways,
but its most general use is in salad. Some writers upon the subject have expressed their
opinion that beetroot is easily digested, but those who have taken pains to carefully
analyze its qualities muko quite a contrary statement. Youth, of course, can digest it;
but to persons of a certain age beet is very indigestible, or rather, it does not digest at
all. It is not the sugary pulp which is indigestible, but its fibrous network that resists
the action of the gastric organs. Thus, when the root is reduced to a puree, almost
any person may eat it.

French Sugar. — It had long been thought that tropical heat was not necessary to
form sugar, and, about 17*10, it was discovered that many plants of the temperate zone,
and amongst others the beet, contained it. Towards the beginning of the 10th century,
circumstances having, in France, made sugar scarce, and consequently dear, tho govern-

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

v616

ment caused inquiries to be instituted as to the possibility of finding a substitute for it.
Accordingly, it was ascertained that sugar exists in the whole vegetable kingdom ; that
it is to bo found in the grapo, chestnut, potuto ; but that, far above all, the beet contains
it in a largo proportion. Thus the beet becamo an object of the most careful culture •
and many experiments went to prove that in this respect the old world was independent
of the new. Many manufactories came into existence in all parts of France and the
mailing of sugar became naturalized in that country.

COMMON SHORT CRUST.

1212. Ingredients.— To every pound of flour allow 2 oz. of sifted
sugar, 3 oz. of butter, about f pint of boiling milk.

Mode. — Crumble the butter into the flour as finely as possible, add
the sugar, and work the whole up to a smooth paste with the boiling
milk. Roll it out thin, and bake in a moderate oven.

Average cost, 6 d. per lb.

Qualities of Sugar. — Sugars obtained from various plants are, in fact, of the same
nature, and have no intrinsic difference when they have become equally purified by the
same processes. Taste, crystallization, colour, weight, are absolutely identical ; and the
most acute observer cannot distinguish the one from the other.

BUTTER CRUST, for Boiled Puddings.

1213. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow 6 oz. of butter,
| pint of water.

Mode. — With a knife, work the flour to a. smooth paste with £ pint
of water ; roll the crust out rather thin ; place the butter over it in
small pieces ; dredge lightly over it some flour, and fold the paste
over ; repeat the rolling once more, and the crust will be ready for
use. It may be enriched by adding another 2 oz. of butter ; but, for
ordinary purposes, the above quantity will be found quite sufficient.

Average cost, 6 d. per lb.

DRIPPING CRUST, for Kitchen Puddings, Pies, &c.

1214. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow 6 oz. of clari-
fied beef dripping, £ pint of water.

Mode. — After having clarified the dripping, by either of the recipes
No. 621 or 622, weigh it, and to every lb. of flour allow the above
proportion of dripping. With a knife, work the flour into a smooth
paste with the water, rolling it out 3 times, each time placing on the
crust 2 oz. of the dripping, broken into small pieces. If this paste is
lightly made, if good dripping is used, and not too much of it, it will
be found good ; and by the addition of two tablespoonfuls of fine
moist sugar, it may be converted into a common short crust for fruit
pies.

Average cost, 4 d. per pound.

Water AVhat the Ancients Thought of it.— All the nations of antiquity pos-
sessed great veneration for water : thus, the Egyptians offered prayers ami homage to
water, and the Nile was an especial object of their adoration; the Persians would not

PUDDINGS AND PAST11Y.

617

wash their hands; the Scythians honoured tho Danube ; the Greeks and Romans erected
altars to the fountains and rivers ; and some of the architectural embellishments executed
for fountains in Greece were remarkable for their beauty and delicacy. The purity of
the water was a great object of the care of the ancients ; and we learn that the Athenians
appointed four officers to keep watch and ward over the water in their city. These men
had to keep the fountains in order and clean the reservoirs, so that the water might be
preserved pure and limpid. Like officers were appointed in other Greek cities.

SUET CRUST, for Pies or Puddings.

1215. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow 5 or 6 oz. of beef
suet, -a pint of water.

Mode. — Free the suet from skin and shreds ; chop it extremely fine,
and rub it well into the flour ; work the whole to a smooth paste with
the above proportion of water ; roll it out, and it is ready for -use.
This crust is quite rich enough for ordinary purposes, but when a
better one is desired, use from § to f lb. of suet to every lb. of flour.
Some cooks, for rich crusts, pound the suet in a mortar, with a
small quantity of butter. It should then be laid on the paste in small
pieces, the same as for puff-crust, and will be found exceedingly nice
for hot tarts. 5 oz. of suet to every lb. of flour will make a very good
crust ; and even I lb. will answer very well for children, or where the
crust is wanted very plain.

Average cost, 3d. per lh.

PATE BBISEE, or PEEUCH CRUST, for Raised Pies.

1216. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow i saltspoonful
of salt, 2 eggs, £ pint of water, 6 oz. of butter.

Mode.— Spread the flour, which should be sifted and thoroughly
dry, on the paste-board ; make a hole in the centre, into which put the
butter ; work it lightly into the flour, and when quite fine, add the
salt ; work the whole into a smooth paste with the eggs (yolks and
whites) and water, and make it very firm. Knead the paste well, and
let it be rather stiff, that the sides of the pie may be easily raised,
and that they do not afterwards tumble or shrink.

Average cost, Is. per lb.

Note. — This paste may be very much enriched by making it with equal
quantities of flour and butter ; but then it is not so easily raised as when
made plainer.

Wat eh. Supply in Rome. — Nothing in Italy is more extraordinary tbim the remains
of the ancient aqueducts. At first, the Romans were contented with the water from the
liber. Aueus Martins was the first to commence the building of aqueducts destined to
convey the water of the fountain of Piconia from Tibur to Rome, a distance of some
33,000 paces. Appius Claudius continued the good work, and to him is due the. corn-
er a°n of the celebrated Apjfian Way. In time, the gigantic waterways greatly multi-
plied, and, by the reign of Nero, (here were constructed nine principal aqueducts, the
pipes of which were ot bricks, baked tiles, stone, lead, or wood. According to the calcu-
lation of Vigeuerus, naif a million hogsheads of water were conveyed into Rome every
day, by upwards ol 10,000 small pipes not one-third of an inch in diameter. The water
was received in large closed basins, above which rose sjjlcndid monuments : these busins

618

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

supplied other subterranean conduits, connected with various quarters of the city, and
these conveyod water to small reservoirs furnished with taps for the exclusive use of
certain streets. The water which was not driukuble ran out, by means of large pipes,
into extensive inclosures, where it served to water cattle. At these places the people
waBlied their linen ; and here, too, was u supply of the necessary element in case of lire.

COMMON CRUST FOR RAISED PIES.

1217. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow i pint of water,
l£ oz. of butter, l| oz. of lard, £ saltspoonful of salt.

Mode. — Put into a saucepan the water ; when it boils, add the butter
and lard ; and when these are melted, make a hole in the middle of
the flour ; pour in the water gradually ; beat it well with a wooden
spoon, and be particular in not making the paste too soft. Whe^n it
is well mixed, knead it with the hands until quite stiff, dredging a
little flour over the paste and board, to prevent them from sticking.
When it is well kneaded, place it before the fire, with a cloth covered
over it, for a few minutes ; it will then be more easily worked into
shape. This paste does not taste so nicely as the preceding one, but
is worked with greater facility, and answers just as well for raised
pies, for the crust is seldom eaten.

Average cost, 5d. per lb.

LARD OR PLEAD CRUST.

1218. Ingredients.— To every lb. of flour allow £lb. of lardorflead,
£ pint of water, £ saltspoonful of salt.

Mode.— Clear the Head free from skin, and slice it into thin flakes ;
rub it into the flour, add the salt, and work the whole into a smooth
paste, with the above proportion of water ; fold the paste over two or
three times, beat it well with the rolling-pin, roll it out, and it will
be ready for use. The crust made from this will be found extremely
light, and may be made into cakes or tarts ; it may also be very much
enriched by adding more Head to the same proportion of flour.

Average cost, 8 d. per lb.

Nutritious Qualities of Flour. — The gluten of grain and the albumen of vegetable
juices are identical in composition with the albumen of blood. Vegetable caseine has
also the composition of animal caseine. The iiuest wheat flour contains more starch than
the coarser; the bran of wheat is proportionably richer in gluten. Rye and rye-bread
contain a substance resembling starch-gum (or dextrine, as it is called) in its properties,
which is very easily converted into sugar. Tne starch ot barley approaches in many pro-
perties to cellulose, and is, therefore, less digestible. Oats are particularly rich in plastic
substances ; Scotch oats are richer than those grown in England or in Germany. This kind
of grain contains in its ashes, alter deduction of the silica^of the husks, 'very nearly the
same ingredients as are found in the ashes of the juice ot llesh. Fine American llour
is one of the varieties which is richest in gluten, and is consequently one of the most
nutritious.

ALMOND CHEESECAKES.

1219. Ingredients. — £ lb. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter ones, 3 eggs,

2 oz. ol' flutter, Ike rind of \ lemon, 1 tablespoonful of lemon- juice,

3 oz. of sugar.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

C19

Mode. — Blanch and pound the almonds smoothly in a mortar, with
a little rose- or spring-water ; stir in the eggs, which should he well
beaten, and the butter, which should he warmed ; add the grated
lemon -peel and -juice, sweeten, and stir well until the whole is
thoroughly mixed. Line some pattypans with puff-paste, put in the
mixture, and bake for 20 minutes, or rather less in a quick oven-

Time. — 20 minutes, or rather less.

A verage cost, 10 d.

Sufficient for about 12 cheesecakes.

Seasonable at any time.

Almonds. — Almonds are the fruit of the Amygdalus com-
munis, and are cultivated throughout the whole of the south
of Europe, Syria, Persia, and Northern Africa; but England
ismostly supplied with those which are growm in Spain and the
south of France. They are distinguished into Sweet and Bitter,
the produce of different varieties. Of the sweet, there are
two varieties, distinguished in commerce by the names of
Jordan and' Yalentia almonds. The former are imported from
Malaga, and are longer, narrower, more pointed, and more
highly esteemed than the latter, which are imported from
Yalentia. Bitter almonds are principally obtained from
Morocco, and are exported from Mogador.

ALMOND PASTE, for Second-Course Dishes.

1220. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, 1 lb. of
very finely sifted sugar, the whites of 2 eggs.

Mode.— Blanch the almonds, and dry them thoroughly ; put them
into a mortar, and pound them well, wetting them gradually with
the whites of 2 eggs. When well pounded, put them into a small
preserving-pan, add the sugar, and place the pan on a small but clear
fire (a hot-plate is better) ; keep stirring until the paste is dry, then
take it out of the pan, put it between two dishes, and, when cold,
make it into any shape that fancy may dictate.

Time . — s hour. Average cost, 2s. for the above quantity.

Sufficient for 3 small dishes of pastry.

Seasonable at any time.

Bitter Almonds. — The Bitter Almond is a variety of the common almond, and is
injurious to animal life, on account of the great quantity of hydrocyanic acid it contains,
and is consequently seldom used in domestic economy, unless it be to give flavour to
confectionery ; and even then it should be used with great caution. A single drop of the
essential oil of bitter almonds is suflicient to destroy a bird, and four drops have caused
the death of a middle-sized dog.

BAKED ALMOND PUDDING.

( Very rich.)

i22i. Ingredients. — lib. of almonds, 4 bitter ditto, 1 glass of sherry,
4 eggs, the rind and juice of J lemon, 3 oz. of butter, 1 pint of cream,
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar.

620

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKEllV.

Mode. — Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with the
water ; mix these with the butter, which should be melted ; beat up the
eggs, grate the lemon-rind, and strain the juice; add these, with the
cream, sugar, and wine, to the other ingredients, and stir them well
together. When well mixed, put it into a pie-dish lined with puff-
paste, and bake for § hour.

Time. — i hour. Average cost, 2s. 3 cl.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — To make this pudding more economically, substitute milk for the
cream ; but then add rather more than 1 oz. of finely-grated bread.

Uses of the Sweet Almond. — The kernels of the sweet almond are used either in a
green or ripe state, and as an article in tho dessert. Into cookery, confectionery, per-
fumery, and medicine, they largely enter, and in domestic economy, should always he
used in preference to hitter almonds. The reason for advising this, is because the
kernels do not contain any hydrocyanic or prussic acid, although it is found in the leaves,
flowers, and hark of the tree. When young and green, they are preserved in sugar, like
green apricots. They furnish the almond-oil ; and the farinaceous matter which is left
after the oil is expressed, forms th e pate d'amandea of perfumers. In the arts, the oil
is employed for the some purposes as the olive-oil, and forms the basis of kalydor,
macassar oil, Gowland’s lotion, and many other articles of that kind vended by per-
fumers. In medicine, it is considered a nutritive, laxative, and an emollient.

SMALL ALMOND PUDDINGS.

1222. Ingredients. — | lb. of sweet almonds, 6 bitter ones, £ lb. of
butter, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cream, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

Mode. — Blanch and pound the almonds to a smooth paste with a
spoonful of water ; warm the butter, mix the almonds with this, and
add the other ingredients, leaving out the
whites of 2 eggs, and be particular that these
are well beaten. Mix well, butter some cups,
almond puddings. half fill them, and bake the puddings from
20 minutes to a hour. Turn them out on a dish, and serve with sweet
sauce.

Time. — 20 minutes to i hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

The Husks of Almonds. — In the environs of Alicante, the husks of almonds are
ground to a powder, and enter into the composition of common soap, the large quantity
of alkaline principle they contain rendering them suitable for this purpose. It is said
that in some parts of the south of France, where they are extensively grown, horses and
mules arc fed on the green and dry husks ; hut, to prevent any evil consequences arising
from this practice, they are mixed with chopped straw or oats.

ALMOND PUFFS.

1223. Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz. of butter, 2oz.
of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 4 bitter almonds.

PUDDINGS AND PASTKT.

621

Mode. — Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar to a smooth
paste ; melt the butter, dredge in the dour, and add the sugar and
pounded almonds. Beat the mixture well, and put it into cups or
very tiny jelly-pots, which should he well buttered, and bake in a
moderate oven for about 20 minutes, or longer should the puffs
be large. Turn them out on a dish, the bottom of the puff upper-
most, and serve.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average cost, Gd.

Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.

AUNT NELLY’S PUDDING.

1224. Ingredients. — i lb. of flour, § lb. of treacle, fib. of suet,
the rind and juice of 1 lemon, a few strips of candied lemon-peel,
3 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 eggs.

Mode. — Chop the suet finely ; mix with it the flour, treacle, -lemon-
peel minced, and candied lemon-peel ; add the cream, lemon-juice, and
2 well-beaten eggs ; beat the pudding well, put it into a buttered
basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil from 3i to 4 hours.

Time. — 3§ to 4 hours. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time, but more suitable for a winter pudding.

Treacle, or Molasses. — Treacle is the uncrystallizable part of the saccharine juice-
drained from the Muscovado sugar, and is either naturally so or rendered uncrystallizable
through some defect in the process of boiling. As it contains a large quantity of sweet
or saccharine principle and is cheap, it is of great use as an article of domestic economy.
Children are especially fond of it ; and it is accounted wholesome. It is also useful for
making beer, rum, and the very dark syrups.

BAKED APPLE DUMPLINGS (a Plain Eamily Disli).

1225. Ingredients. — 6 apples, % lb. of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar
to taste.

Mode. — Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing
them, and make § lb. of suet-crust by recipe No. 1215 ; roll the
apples in the crust, previously sweetening them with moist sugar,
and taking care to join the paste nicely. When they are formed into
round balls, put them on a tin, and bake them for about I hour, or
longer should the apples be very large ; arrange them pyramidically on
a dish, and sift over them some pounded white sugar. These may
be made richer by using one of the puff-pastes instead of suet.

Time. — From £ to % hour, or longer. Average cost, lid. each.

Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from August to March, but flavourless after the end of
January.

622

MODERN noUSEUOLD COOKER?.

Usks op tiie Apple. — It is well known that this fruit forms a very important article
of food, in the form of pica and puddings, and furnishes several delicacies, each as
sauces, marmalades, and jellies, and is much esteemed as a dessert fruit. When flat-
tened in the form of round cakes, and baked in ovens, they are called heelings ; and large
quantities are nnmmlly dried in the sun in America, as well as in Normandy, and stored
for use during winter, when they may he stewed or made into pies. In a roasted state
they are remarkably wholesome, and, it is said, strengthening to a weak stomach. In ^
putrid and malignant fevers, when used with the juice of lemons and currants, they are
considered highly efficacious.

APPLE CHEESECAKES.

11226. Ingredients.— k lb. of apple pulp, £ lb. of sifted sugar, £ lb.
of butter, 4 eggs, the rind and juice of 1 lemon.

Mode. — Pare, core, and boil sufficient apples to make \ lb. when
cooked ; add to these the sugar, the butter, which should be melted ;
the eggs, leaving out 2 of the whites, and the grated rind and juice of
1 lemon ; stir the mixture well ; line some patty-
pans with puff-paste, put in the mixture, and
bake about 20 minutes.

Time. — About 20 minutes.

Average cost, for the above quantity, with the
paste, Is. 2d.

Sufficient for about 18 or 20 cheesecakes.
Seasonable from August to March.

The Apple. — The most useful of all the British fruits is
the apple, which is a native of Britain, and may be found in
woods and hedges, in the form of the common" wild crab, of
which all our best apples are merely seminal varieties, pro-
duced by culture or particular circumstances. In most
temperate climates it is very extensively cultivated, and in
England, both as regards variety and quantity, it is excellent
and abundant. Immense supplies are also imported from
the United States and from France. The apples' grown in
the vicinity of New York are universally admitted to be the
finest of any ; but unless selected and packed with great
care, they are apt to spoil before reaching England.

BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS.

1227. Ingredients. — 6 apples, £ lb. of suet-crust No. 1215, sugar
to taste.

Mode. — Pare and take out the cores of the apples without dividing
them; sweeten, and roll each apple in a piece of crust, made by
recipe No. 1211 ; be particular that the paste is nicely joined ; put the
dumplings into floured cloths, tie them securely, and put them into
boiling water. Keep them boiling from £ to f hour; remove the
cloths, and send them hot and quickly to table. Dumplings boiled in
knitted cloths have a very pretty appearance when they come to table.

The cloths should be made square,- just large enough to hold one
dumpling, and should be knitted in plain knitting, with very coarse -
cotton.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

623

Time. — f to 1 hour, or longer should the dumplings be very large.

Average cost, 1 id. each. Sufficient for 4 persons.

Seasonable from August to March, hut flavourless after the end of
January.

Laatbswooi., or Layasool. — This old English beverage is composed of apples mixed
with ale, and seasoned with sugar and spice. It takes its name from Lamaes aVkal,
which, in ancient British, signifies the day of apple fruit, from being drunk on the apple
feast in autumn. In France, a beverage, called, by the Parisians raisinie, is made by
, boiling any given quantity of new wine, skimming it as often as fresh scum rises, and,
when it is boiled to half its bulk, straining it. To this apples, pared and out into
quarters, are added ; the whole is then allowed to simmer gently, stirring it all the time
with a long wooden spoon, till the apples are thoroughly mixed with the liquor, and the
whole forms a species of marmalade, which is extremely agreeable to the taste, having a
slight flavour of acidity, like lemon mixed with honey.

KICH BAKED APPLE PUDDING,

iaa8. Ingredients.— | lb. of the pulp of apples, i lb. of loaf
sugar, 6 oz. of butter, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 eggs, puff-paste.

Mode. — Peel, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce ; put them into
a stewpan, with only just sufficient water to prevent them from
burning, and let them stew until reduced to a pulp. Weigh the pulp,
and to every b lb. add sifted sugar, grated lemon-rind, and 6 well-
beaten eggs. Beat these ingredients well together ; then melt the
butter, stir it to the other things, put a border of pufl-paste round the
dish, and hake for rather more than b hour. The butter should not
he added until the puddiug is ready for the oven.

Time. — 4 to f hour. Average cost, Is. 10 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from August to March.

II.

(More Economical.)

1229. 'Ingredients. — 12 large apples, 6 oz. of moist sugar, | lb. of
butter, 4 eggs, 1 pint of bread crumbs.

Mode. — Pare, core, and cut the apples, as for sauce, and boil
them until reduced to a pulp ; then add the butter, melted, and the
eoSs> 'which should he well whisked. Beat up the pudding for 2 or 3
minutes ; butter a pie- dish ; put in a layer of bread crumbs, then the
apple, and then another layer of bread crumbs ; flake over these a few
tiny pieces of butter, and bake for about b hour.

Time. — About 4 hour. Average cost, Is. 3d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from August to March.

Mole. — A very good economical pudding may be made merely with apples,
boiled and sweetened, with the addition of a few strips of lemon-peel. A

624

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

layer of bread crumbs should be placed above and below the apples, and the
pudding baked for % hour.

Constituents or the Apple. — All apples contain sugar, malic acid, or the acid of
apples ; mucilage, or gum ; woody fibre, and water j together with some aroma, on
which their peculiar flavour depends. The hard acid kinds are unwholesome if eaten
raw ; hut by the process of cooking, a great deal of this acid is decomposed and con-
verted into sugar. The sweet and mellow kinds form a valuable addition to the dessert.
A great part of the acid juice is converted into sugar as the fruit ripens, and even after
it is gathered, by a natural process, termed maturation ; but, when apples decay, the
sugar is changed into a bitter principle, and the mucilage becomes mouldy and offensive.
Old cheese has a remarkable effect in meliorating the apple when eaten ; probably from
the volatile alkali or ammonia of the cheese neutralizing its acid.

RICH SWEET APPLE PUDDING.

1230. Ingredients. — | lb. of bread crumbs, i lb. of suet, j lb. of
currants, § lb. of apples, i lb. of moist sugar, 6 eggs, 12 sweet
almonds, i saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, 1 wineglassful of brandy.

Mode. — Chop tbe suet very fine ; wash the currants, dry them, and
pick away the stalks and pieces of grit ; pare, core, and chop the
apple, and grate the bread into fine crumbs, and mince the almonds.
Mix all these ingredients together, adding the sugar and nutmeg ; beat
up the eggs, omitting the whites of three ; stir these to the pudding,
and when all is well mixed, add the brandy, and put the pudding
into a buttered mould ; tie down with a cloth, put it into boiling
water, and let it boil for 3 hours.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from August to March.

To Presekve Apples. — The best mode of preserving apples is to carry them at
once to the fruit -room, where they should he put upon shelves, covered with white
paper, after gently wiping each of the fruit. The room should be dry, and well aired,
but should not admit the sun. The finer and larger kinds of fruit should not be allowed
to touch each other, but should be kept separate. For this purpose, a number of shallow
trays should be provided, supported by racks or stnnds above each other. In very cold
frosty weather, means should be adopted for warming the room.

BAKED APPLE PUDDING.

( Very Good.)

1231. Ingredients. — 5 moderate-sized apples, 2 tablespoonfuls of
finely-chopped suet, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 pint of milk,
a little grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk ; add the
eggs, which should be well whisked, and put this batter into a well-
buttered pie-dish. Wipe the apples clean, but do not pare them ;
cut them in halves, and take out the cores ; lay them in the batter,
rind uppermost ; shake the suet on the top, over which also grate a
little nutmeg ; bake in a moderate oven for an hour, and cover ,

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY-

025

when served, with sifted loaf sugar. This pudding is also very good
with the apples pared, sliced, and mixed with the batter.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

BOILED APPLE PUDDING.

1232. Ingredients. — Crust Ho. 1215, apples, sugar to taste, 1 small
teaspoonful of -/finely-minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-
juice.

Mode. — Make a butter-crust by recipe Ho. 1213, or a suet one by
recipe Ho. 1215, using for a moderate-sized pudding from § to 1 lb. of
flour, with the other ingredients in proportion. Butter a basin ; line it
with some of the paste ; pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and
fill the basin with these ; add the sugar, the lemon-peel and juice, and
cover with crust ; pinch the edges together, flour the cloth, place it
over the pudding, tie it securely, and put it into plenty of fast-boiling
water. Let it boil from 1| to 2i hours, according to the size ; then
turn it out of the basin and send to table quickly. Apple puddings
may also be boiled in a cloth without a basin ; but, when made
in this way, must be served without the least delay, as the crust
so soon becomes heavy. Apple pudding is a very convenient dish to
have when the dinner-hour is rather uncertain, as it does not spoil
by being boiled an extra hour ; care, however, must be taken to keep
it well covered with the water all the time, and not to allow it to stop
boiling.

Time. — From H to 2j hours, according to the size of the pudding
and the quality of tire apples.

Average cost, lOd,

Sufficient, made with 1 lb. of flour, for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from August to March ; but the apples become flavour-
less and scarce after February.

APPLE TAUT OB PIE.

1233. Ingredients. — Puff-paste Ho. 1205 or 1206, apples; to every
lb. of unpared apples allow 2 oz. of moist sugar, i teaspoonful of
finely-minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

Mode. Make l lb. of puff-paste by either of the above-named recipes,
place a border of it round the edge of a pie-dish, and fill it with apples
pared, cored, and cut into slices ; sweeten with moist sugar, add the
lemon-peel and juice, and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of water ; cover with
crust, cut it evenly round close to the edge of the pie-dish, and bake
m a hot oven from h to f hour, or rather longer, should the pie be

026

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

very large. When it is three-parts done, take it out of the, oven, put
the white of an egg on a plate, and, with the blade of a knife, whisk
it to a froth ; brush the pie over with this, then sprinkle upon it some
sifted sugar, and then a few drops of water. Put the pie back into
the oven, and finish baking, and be particularly careful that it does
not catch or burn, which it is very liable to do after the crust is iced.
If made with a plain crust, the icing may be omitted.

Time ,—h hour before the crust is iced; 10 to 15 minutes afterwards.

Average cost, 9c?.

Sufficient. — Allow 2 lbs. of apples for a tart for 6 persons.

Seasonable from August to March ; but the apples become flavour-
less after February.

N ole. — Many things are suggested for the flavouring of apple pie ; some say
2 or 3 tablespooufuls of beer, others the same quantity of sherry, which very
much improve the taste ; whilst the old-fashioned addition of a few cloves is, by
many persons, preferred to anything else, as also a few slices of quince.

Quinces. — The environs of Corinth originally produced the most beautiful quinces,
hut the plant was subsequently introduced into Gaul with
the most perfect success. The ancients preserved the fruit
by placing it, with its branches and leaves, in a vessel filled
with honey or sweet wine, which was reduced to half the
quantity by ebullition. Quinces may be profitably cultivated
in this country as a variety with other fruit-tree3, and may be
planted in espaliers or as standards. A very fiue-flavoured
marmalade may be prepared from quinces, and a small por-
tion of quince iu apple pie much improves its flavour. The
French use quinces for flavouring many sauces. This fruit
has the remarkable peculiarity of exhaling an agreeablo
odour, taken singly ; but when in any quantity, or when they
are stowed away in a drawer or close room, the pleasant
aroma becomes an intolerable stench, although the fruit may
be perfectly sound ; it is therefore desirable that, as but a,
few quinces are required for keeping, they should be kept in
a high and dry loft, and out of the way of the rooni3 used by
quince. the family.

CEEAMED APPLE TART.

1234. Ingredients. — Paff-crust Ko. 1205 or 1206, apples ; to every
lb. of pared and cored apples, allow 2 oz. of moist sugar, 4 teaspoonful
of minced lemon-peel, 1 tablespoonful of lemon- j uiee, § pint of boiled
custard.

Mode. — Make an apple tart by the preceding recipe, with the ex-
ception of omitting the icing. When the tart is baked, cut out the
middle of the lid or crust, leaving a border all round the dish. Fill
up with a nicely-made boiled custard, grate a little nutmeg over the
top, and the pie is ready for table. This tart is usually eaten cold ; is
rather an old-fashioned dish, but, at the same time, extremely nice.

Time. — § to f hour. Average cost, Is. 3 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from August t o'March.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

G27

APPLE SNOWBALLS.

1235. Ingredients. — 2 teacupfuls of rice, apples, moist sugar,
cloves.

Mode. — Boil the rice in milk until three-parts done ; then strain it
off, and pave and core the apples -without dividing them. Put a small
quantity of sugar and a clove into each apple, put the rice round them,
and tie each ball separately in a cloth. Boil until the apples are tender ;
then take them up, remove the cloths, and serve.

Time. — l- hour to boil the rice separately; w to 1 hour with the
apple.

Seasonable from August to March.

APPLE TOTJETE OB CAKE.

(German Recipe.)

1236. Ingredients. — 10 or 12 apples, sugar to taste, the rind of
1 small lemon, 3 eggs, j pint of cream or milk, \ lb. of butter, f lb. of
good short crust No. 1211, 3 oz. of sweet almonds.

Mode. — Pare, core, and cut the apples into small pieces ; put suffi-
cient moist sugar to sweeten them into a basin ; add the lemon-peel,
which should be finely minced, and the cream ; stir these ingredients
well, whisk the eggs, and melt the butter ; mix altogether, add the
sliced apple, and let these be well stirred into the mixture. Line a
large round plate with the paste, place a narrow rim of the same round
the outer edge, and lay the apples thickly in the middle. Blanch the
almonds, cut them into long shreds, and strew over the top of the
apples, and bake from « to f hour, taking care that the almonds do
not get burnt : when done, strew some sifted sugar over the top, and
serve. This tourte may be eaten either hot or cold, and is sufficient
to fill 2 large-sized plates.

Time. — i to f hour. Average cost, 2s. 2 d.

Sufficient for 2 large- sized tourtes.

Seasotiable from August to March.

Apples.— No fruit is so universally popular as tlie apple. It is grown extensively for
cider, but many sorts are cultivated l'or the table. The apple, uncooked, is less digest-
ible than the pear; the degree of digestibility varying according to the firmness of its
texture and flavour. Very wholesome and delicious jellies, marmalades, and sweetmeats
are prepared from it. Entremets of apples are made in great variety. Apples, when
peeled, cored, and well cooked, are a most grateful food for the dyspeptic,

ALMA PUDDING.

1237. Ingredients. — i lb. of fresh butter, § lb. of powdered sugar,
i lb. of flour, \ lb. of currants, 4 eggs.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a thick cream, strew in, by degrees, the
sugar, and mix both these well together ; then dredge the flour in

2 s 2

C28

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

gradually, add the currants, and moisten with the eggs, which should
he well beaten. When all the ingredients are well stirred and mixed,
butter a mould that will hold the mixture exactly, tie it down with a
cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil for .5 hours ; when
turned out, strew some powdered sugar over it, and serve.

Time. — 6 hours. Average cost, Is. 6c/.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

BAKED APRICOT PUDDING.

1*238. Ingbedients. — 12 large apricots, § joint of bread crumbs,
1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of pounded sugai', the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 glass of
sherry.

Mode. — Make the milk boiling hot, and pour it on to the bread
crumbs ; when half cold, add the sugar, the well- whisked yolks of
the eggs, and the sherry. Divide the apricots in half, scald them until
they are soft, and break them up with a spoon, adding a few of the
kernels, which should be well pounded in a mortar ; then mix the
fruit and other ingredients together, put a border of paste. round the
dish, fill with the mixture, and bake the pudding from i to f hour.

Time. — i to f hour. Average cost, in full season, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in August, September, and October.

APRICOT TART.

1239. Ingbedients.— 12 or 14 apricots, sugar to taste, puff-paste or
short crust.

Mode. — Break the apricots in half, take out the stones, and put
them into a pie-dish, in the centre of which place a very small cup or
j ar, bottom uppermost ; sweeten with good moist sugar, but add no
water. Line the edge of the dish with paste, put on the cover, and
ornament the pie in any of the usual modes. Bake from 3 to f hour,
according to size ; and if puff-paste is used, glaze it about 10 minutes
before the pie is done, and put it into the oven again to set the glaze.
Short crust merely requires a little sifted sugar sprinkled over it before
being sent to table.

Time. — 3 to f hour. Average cost, in full season, Is.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in August, September, and October ; green ones rather
earlier.

Note. — Green apricots make very good tarts, but they should be boiled with
a little sugar and water before they are covered with the crust.

TUDDINGS AND I’ASTKY.

G29

Apricots. — The apricot is indigenous to the plains of Armenia, but is now cultivated
in almost every climate, temperate or tropical. There are several varieties. The skin
of this fruit has a perfumed flavour, highly esteemed. A good apricot, when perfectly
ripo, is an excellent fruit. It has been somewhat condemned for its laxative qualities,
but this has possibly arisen from the fruit having been eaten unripe, or in too great
excess. Delicate persons should not eat the apricot uncooked, without a liberal allowance
of powdered sugar. The apricot makes excellent jam and marmalade, and there are
several foreign preparations of it which are considered great luxuries.

BAKED OR BOILED ARROWROOT PUDDING.

1240. Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1^ pint of milk,
1 oz. of butter, the rind of J lemon, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist
sugar, a little grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Mix the arrowroot with as much cold milk as will make it
into a smooth batter, moderately thick ; put the remainder of the milk
into a stewpan with the lemon-peel, and let it infuse for about i hour ;
when it boils, strain it gently to the batter, stirring it all the time to
keep it smooth ; then add the butter ; beat this well in until thoroughly
mixed, and sweeten with moist sugar. Put the mixture into a pie-
dish, round which has been placed a border of paste, grate a little
nutmeg over the top, and bake the pudding from 1 to lj hour, in a
moderate oven, or boil it the same length of time in a well-buttered
basin. To enrich this pudding, stir to the other ingredients, just
before it is put in the oven, 3 well-whisked eggs, and add a table-
spoonful of brandy. For a nursery pudding, the addition of the latter
ingredients will be found quite superfluous, as also the paste round
the edge of the dish.

Time. — 1 to 1| hour, baked or boiled. Average cost, 7 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Arrowroot, — In India, and in the colonies, by the process of rasping, they extract
from a vegetable (Marania arundinacea) a sediment nearly resembling tapioca. The
grated pulp is sifted into a quantity of water, from which it is afterwards strained and
dried, and the sediment thus produced is called arrowroot. Its qualities closely resemble
those of tapioca.

A BACHELOR’S PUDDING.

1241. Ingkedients. — 4 oz. of grated bread, 4 oz. of currants, 4 oz.
of apples, 2 oz. of sugar, 3 eggs, a few drops of essence of lemon, a
little grated nutmeg.

3fode.~- Pare, core, and mince the apples very finely, sufficient, when
minced, to make 4 oz. ; add to these the currants, which should be
well washed, the grated bread, and sugar ; whisk the eggs, beat these
up with the remaining ingredients, and, when all is thoroughly mixed,
put the pudding into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and
boil for 3 hours.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from August to March.

630

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

B AKE WELL PUDDING.

( Very Iiich.)

1242. Ingredients.—* lb. of puff-paste, 5 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, ~lb.
of butter, 1 oz. of almonds, jam.

Mode. — Cover a dish with thin paste, and put over this a layer of
any kind of jam, \ inch thick ; put the yolks of 5 eggs into a basin
with the white of 1, and beat these well ; add the sifted sugar, the
butter, which should be melted, and the almonds, which should be
well pounded ; beat all together until well mixed, then pour it into
the dish over the jam, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, Is. 6d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

II.

1243. Ingredients. — | pint of bread crumbs, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs,
2 oz. of sugar, 3 oz. of butter, 1 oz. of pounded almonds, jam.

Mode. — Put the bread crumbs at the bottom of a pie-dish, then over
them a layer of jam of any kind that may be preferred ; mix the milk
and eggs together ; add the sugar, butter, and pounded almonds ; beat
all well together ; pour it into the dish, and bake in a moderate oven
for 1 hour.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost. Is. 3d. to Is. Gil.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BARONESS PUDDING.

(Author's Recipe.)

1244. Ingredients.— f lb. of suet, f lb. of raisins weighed after
being stoned, * lb. of flour, i pint of milk, * saltspoonful of salt.

Mode. — Prepare the suet, by carefully freeing it from skin, and
chop it finely ; stone the raisins, and cut them in halves, and mix
both these ingredients with the salt and flour; moisten the whole
with the above proportion of milk, stir the mixture well, and tie
the pudding in a floured cloth, which has been previously wrung
out in boiling water. Put the pudding into a saucepan of boiling
water, and let it boil, without ceasing, 4£ hours. Serve merely
with plain sifted sugar, a little of which may be sprinkled over the
pudding.

Time. — 4 A hours. Average cost, Is. id.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable in winter, when fresh fruit is not obtainable.

jVote. — This pudding the editress cannot too highly recommend. The recipo
was kindly given to her family by a lady who boro the title here prefixed to

PUDDINGS AKD PASTItY.

631

it ; and with all who have partaken of it, it is an especial favourite. Nothing
is of greater consequence, in tho above directions, than attention to the time
of boiling, which should never be less than that mentioned.

BABSEEHY TAUT.

1245. Ingredients. — To every lb. of barberries allow f lb. of lump
sugar ; paste.

Mode. — Pick the barberries from the stalks, and put the fruit into
a stone jar ; place this jar in boiling water,
and let it simmer very slowly until the
fruit is soft; then put it into a preserving-
pan with the sugar, and boil gently for
15 minutes ; line a tartlet-pan with paste,
bake it, and, when the paste is cold, fill
with the barberries, and ornament the tart
with a few baked leaves of paste, cut out, as shown in the engraving.

Time.— I hour to bake the tart.

Average cost, id. per pint.

Seasonable in autumn.

Bahbeebies ( Berlerris vulgaris). — A fruit of such groat
acidity, that even birds refuse to eat it. In this respect, it
nearly approaches the tamarind. AVhcn boiled with sugar, it
makes a very agreeable preserve or jelly, according to the
different modes of preparing it. Barberries are also used as
a dry sweetmeat, and in sugarplums or comfits ; are pickled
with vinegar, and are used for various culinary purposes.
They are well calculated to allay heat and thirst in persons
afflicted with fevers. The berries, arranged on bunches of
nice cui'led parsley, make an exceedingly pretty garnish for
supper-dishes, particularly for white meats, like boiled fowl
a la Bechamel, the three colours, scarlet, green, and white,
contrasting so well, and producing a very good effect.

BAEBEBEY.

BAKED BATTER PUDDING.

1246. Ingredients. — T* pint of milk, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 oz.
of butter, 4 eggs, a little salt.

Mode. — Mix the flour with a small quantity of cold milk ; make the
remainder hot, and pour it on to the flour, keeping the mixture well
stirred ; add the butter, eggs, and salt ; beat the whole well, and put
the pudding into a buttered pie-dish ; bake for % hour, and serve with
sweet sauce, wine sauce, or stewed fruit. Baked in small cups, this
makes very pretty little puddings, and should be eaten with the same
accompaniments as above.

Time. — f hour. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 0 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

G32

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

BAKED BATTER PUDDING, with Dried or Fresh Fruit.

1247. Ingredients.— lj pint of milk, 4 tablespoon fuls of flour,
3 eggs, 2 oz. of finely- shredded suet, f lb. of currants, a pinch of salt.

Mode. — Mix the milk, flour, and eggs to a smooth batter ; add a
little salt, the suet, and the currants, which should be well washed,
picked, and dried ; put the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake
in a moderate oyen for if hour. When fresh fruits are in season,
this pudding is exceedingly nice, with damsons, plums, red currants,
gooseberries, or apples ; when made with these, the pudding must be
thickly sprinkled over with sifted sugar. Boiled batter pudding,
with fruit, is made in the same manner, by putting the fruit into a
buttered basin, and filling it up with batter made in the above pro-
portion, but omitting the suet. It must be sent quickly to table, and
covered plentifully with sifted sugar.

Time. — Baked batter pudding, with fruit, 1-1 to 1? hour ; boiled
ditto, 1-2- to if hour, allowing that both are made with the above
proportion of batter. Smaller puddings will be done enough in f or
1 hour.

Average cost, 10c?.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable at any time, with dried fruits.

BOILED BATTER PUDDING.

1248. Ingredients. — 3 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 1 pint of milk, Stable-
spoonfuls of flour, a little salt.

Mode. — Put the flour into a basin, and add sufficient milk to moisten
it ; carefully rub down all the lumps with a spoon, then pour in the
remainder of the milk, and stir in the butter, which should be pre-
viously melted ; keep beating the mixture, add the eggs and a pinch
of salt, and when the batter is quite smooth, put it into a well-buttered
basin, tie it down very tightly, and put it into boiling water ; move
the basin about for a few minutes after it is put into the water, to
prevent the flour settling in any part, and boil for l.j hour. This
pudding may also be boiled in a floured cloth that has been wetted in
hot water ; it will then take a few minutes less than when boiled in a
basin. Send these puddings very quickly to table, and serve with
sweet sauce, wine sauce, stewed fruit, or jam of any kind : when
the latter is used, a little of it may be placed round the dish in small
quantities, as a garnish.

Time. — if hour in a basin, 1 hour in a cloth. Average cost, 7 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

633

ORANGE BATTER PUDDING.

1249. Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, li oz. of loaf sugar,

3 tablespoonfuls of flour.

Mode. — Make the batter with the above ingredients, put it into a
well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 1 hour.
As soon as it is turned out of the basin, put a small jar of orange
marmalade all over the top, and send the pudding very quickly to
table.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, with the marmalade, Is. 3 cl.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time ; but more suitable for a winter pudding.

BAKED BREAD PUDDING.

1250. Ingredients. — i lb. of grated bread, 1 pint of milk, 4 eggs,

4 oz. of butter, 4 oz. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel, 6 bitter
almonds, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

Mode. — Put the milk into a stewpan, with the bitter almonds ; let
it infuse for j hour ; bring it to the boiling point; strain it on to the
bread crumbs, and let these remain till cold ; then add the eggs,
which should be well whisked, the butter, sugar, and brandy, and
beat the pudding well until all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed ;
line the bottom of a pie-dish with the candied peel sliced thin, put in
the mixture, and bake for nearly § hour.

Time. — Nearly f hour. Average cost, Is. id.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — A few currants may be substituted for tbe candied peel, and will be
found, an excellent addition to this pudding : they should be beaten in with
the mixture, and not laid at the bottom of the pie-dish.

VERY PLAIN BREAD PUDDING.

1251. Ingredients. — Odd pieces of crust or crumb of bread; to
every quart allow § teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of grated nut-
meg, 3 oz. of moist sugar, h lb. of currants, 1| oz. of butter.

Mode. — Break the bread into small pieces, and pour on them as
much boiling -water as will soak them well. Let these stand till the
water is cool ; then press it out, and mash the bread with a fork until
it is quite free from lumps. Measure this pulp, and to every quart
stir in salt, nutmeg, sugar, and currants in the above proportion ;
mix all well together, and put it into a well-buttered pie-dish.
Smooth the surface with the back of a spoon, and place the butter in
small pieces over the top ; bake in a moderate oven for 1§ hour, and

034

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

serve very hot. Eoiling milk substituted for the boiling water would
very much improve this pudding.

Time. — 1§ hour. Average cost, 6 cl., exclusive of the bread.

Sufficient for G or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BOILED BREAD PUDDING.

1252. Ingredients. — l£ pint of milk, f pint of bread crumbs, sugar
to taste, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of currants, \ teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Make the milk boiling, and pour it on the bread crumbs ;
let these remain till cold ; then add the other ingredients, taking
care that the eggs are well beaten and the currants well washed,
picked, and dried. Beat the pudding well, and put it into a buttered
basin ; tie it down tightly with a cloth, plunge it into boiling
water, and boil for 1 j hour ; turn it out of the basin, and serve
with sifted sugar. Any odd pieces or scraps of bread answer for
this pudding ; but they should be soaked overnight, and, when
wanted for use, should have the water well squeezed from them.

Time. — 1^ hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Dread. — Bread contains, in its composition, in the form of vegetable albumen and
vegetable fibrine, two of the chief constituents of flesh, and, in its incombustible con-
stituents, the salts which are indispensable for sanguification, of the same quality and
in the same proportion as flesh. But flesh contains, besides these, a number of sub-
stances which are entirely wanting in vegetable food ; and on these peculiar constituents
of flesh depend certain effects, by which it is essentially distinguished from other articles
of food.

BROWN-BREAD PUDDING.

1253. Ingredients. — f lb. of brown-bread crumbs, i lb. of currants,
§ lb. of suet, \ lb. of moist sugar, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy,
2 tablespoonfuls of cream, grated nutmeg to taste.

Mode. — Grate f lb. of crumbs from a stale brown loaf ; add to these
the currants and suet, and be particular that the latter is finely
chopped. Put in the remaining ingredients ; beat the pudding well
for a few minutes ; put it into a buttered basin or mould ; tie it
down tightly, and boil for nearly 4 hours. Send sweet sauce to
table with it.

Time. — Nearly 4 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable at any time ; but more suitable for a winter pudding.

MINIATURE BREAD PUDDINGS.

1254. Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, A lb. of bread crumbs, 4
eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 1
teaspoonful of finely-minced lemon-peel.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

G35

Mode. — Make the milk boiling1, pour it on to tlie bread crumbs, and
let them soak for about ^ hour. Beat the eggs, mix these with the
bread crumbs, add the remaining ingredients, and stir well until all
is thoroughly mixed. Butter some small cups ; rather more than half
fill them with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 20
minutes to £ hour, and serve with sweet sauce. A few currants may
be added to these puddings : about 3 oz. will be found sufficient for
the above quantity.

Time. — 20 minutes to 1 hour. Average cost, 10 A

Sufficient for 7 or 8 small puddings.

Seasonable at any time.

BAKED BREAD-AND-BUTTER BUDDING-.

1255. Ingredients. — 9 thin slices of bread and butter, 11 pint of
milk, 4 eggs, sugar to taste, f lb. of currants, flavouring of vanilla,
grated lemon-peel or nutmeg.

Mode. — Cut 9 slices of bread and butter not very thick, and put
them into a pie-dish, with currants between each layer and on the
top. Sweeten and flavour the milk, either by infusing a little lemon-
peel in it, or by adding a few drops of essence of vanilla ; well whisk
the eggs, and stir these to the milk. Strain this over the bread and
butter, and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour, or rather longer.
This pudding may be very much enriched by adding cream, candied
peel, or more eggs than stated above. It should not be turned
out, but sent to table in the pie-dish, and is better for being made
about 2 hours before it is baked.

Time. — 1 hour, or rather longer. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Butter. — Blitter is indispensable) in almost all culinary preparations. Good fresh
butter, used in moderation, is easily digested; it is softening, nutritious, and fattening,
and is far more easily digested than any other of the oleaginous substances sometimes
used in its place.

CABINET or CHANCELLOR’S PUDDING.

1256. Ingredients.— 1-i oz. of candied peel, 4 oz. of currants,
4 dozen sultauas, a few slices of Savoy cake, sponge cake, a French
roll, 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, grated lemon-rind, k nutmeg, 3 table-
spoonfuls of sugar.

Mode. — Melt some butter to a paste, and with it, well grease the
mould or basin in which the pudding is to be boiled, taking care that
it is buttered in every part. Cut the peel into thin slices, and place

G36

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

CABINET PUDDING.

these in a fanciful device at the bottom of the mould, and fill ip the
spaces between with currants and sultanas ; then
add a few slices of sponge cake or French roll ;
drop a few drops of melted butter on these, and
between each layer sprinkle a few currants.
Proceed in this manner until the mould is nearly
full ; then flavour the milk with nutmeg and grated lemon-rind ;
add the sugar, and stir to this the eggs, which should be well beaten.
Beat this mixture for a few minutes ; then strain it into the mould,
which should be quite full ; tie a piece of buttered paper over it,
and let it stand for 2 hours ; then tie it down with a cloth, put it into
boiling water, and let it boil slowly for 1 hour. In taking it up, let it
stand for a minute or two before the cloth is removed ; then quickly
turn it out of the mould or basin, and serve with sweet sauce separately.
The flavouring of this pudding may be varied by substituting for the
lemon-rind essence of vanilla or bitter almonds ; and it may be made
much richer by using cream ; but this is not at all necessary.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, Is. 3d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

A PLAIN CABINET or BOILED BREAD -AND-BUTTEE

PUDDING.

1-257. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of raisins, a few thin slices of bread and
butter, 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 5 nutmeg.

Mode. — Butter a pudding-basin, and line the inside with a layer of
raisins that have been previously stoned ; then nearly fill the basin
with slices of bread and butter with the crust cut off, and, in another
basin, beat the eggs ; add to them the milk, sugar, and grated nutmeg ;
mix all well together, and pour the whole on to the bread and butter ;
let it stand 4 hour, then tie a floured cloth over it ; boil for 1 hour, and
serve with sweet sauce. Care must be taken that the basin is quite
full before the cloth is tied over.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

CANARY PUDDING.

1258. Ingredients. — The weight of 3 eggs in sugar and butter, the
weight of 2 eggs in flour, the rind of 1 small lemon, 3 eggs.

Mode. — Melt the butter to a liquid state, but do not allow it to oil ;
stir to this the sugar and finely-minced lemon-peel, and gradually
dredge in the flour, keeping the mixture well stirred ; whisk the eggs ;

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

637

add these to the pudding ; beat all the ingredients until thoroughly
blended, and put them into a buttered mould or basiu ; boil for
2 hours, and serve with sweet sauce.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 9 cl.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BAKED OR BOILED CARROT PUDDING.

1259. Ingredients. — i lb. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of suet, £ lb. of
stoned raisins, f lb. of carrot, | lb. of currants, 3 oz. of sugar, 3 eggs,
milk, \ nutmeg.

Mode. — Boil the carrots until tender enough to mash to a pulp ; add
the remaining ingredients, and moisten with sufficient milk to make
the pudding of the consistency of thick batter. If to be boiled, put
the mixture into a buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, and boil
for 2i hours : if to be baked, put it into a pie-dish, and bake for nearly
an hour ; turn it out of the dish, strew sifted sugar over it, and serve.

Time. — 2| hours to boil ; 1 hour to bake. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient |or 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from September to March.

C abbots, says Liebig, contain the same land of sugar as tbe juice of tlie sugar-cane.

ROYAL COBURG PUDDING.

1260. Ingredients. — 1 pint of new milk, 6 oz. of flour, 6 oz. of
sugar, 6 oz. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, 6 eggs, brandy and grated
nutmeg to taste.

Mode. — Mix the flour to a smooth batter with the milk, add the
remaining ingredients gradually, and when well mixed, put it into
four basins or moulds half full ; bake for £ hour, turn the puddings
out on a dish, and serve with wine sauce.

Time. — f hour. Average cost, Is. 9 d.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.

CHERRY TART.

1261. Ingredients.— l-J lb. of cherries, 2 small tablespoonfuls of
moist sugar, \ lb. of short crust, No. 1210 or 1211.

Mode.— Pick the stalks from the cherries, put them, with the sugar,
into a deep pie-dish just capable of holding them, with a small cup
placed upside down in the midst of them. Make a short crust with i lb.
of flour, by either of the recipes 1210 or 1211 ; lay a border round the
edge of the dish ; put on the cover, and ornament the edges ; bake in a
brisk oven from 4 hour to 40 minutes ; strew finely-sifted sugar over,

638 MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and serve hot or cold, although the latter is the more usual mode. It
is more economical to make two or three tarts at one time, as the
trimmings from one tart answer for lining the edges of the dish for
another, and so much paste is not required as when they are made
singly. Unless for family U3e, never make fruit pies in very large
dishes ; select them, however, as deep as possible.

Time. — § hour to 40 minutes.

Average cost, in full season, 8 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in June, July, and August.

Note. — A few currants added to the cherries will be
found to impart a nice piquant taste to them.

Cherkiks. — According to Lueullus, the cherry-tree was
known in Asia in the year of Romo 6S0. Seventy different
species of cherries, wild and cultivated, exist, which are dis-
tinguishable from each other by the difference of their form,
size, and colour. The French distil from cherries a liqueur
named kirsch-waser (ean do cerises ) ; the Italians prepare, from
a cherry called marusca, the liqueur named marasquin, sweeter
and more agreeable than the formei. The most wholesome
cherries have a tender and delicate skin; those with a hard
skin should be very carefully masticated. Sweetmeats, syrups,
tarts, entremets, &e., of cherries, are universally approved.

<31

citeehy.

COLD PUDDING.

mbs. Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, a little
grated lemon-rind, 2 oz. of raisins, 4 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, a
few slices of sponge cake.

Mods. — Sweeten the milk witb lump sugar, add a little grated
lemon-rind, and stir to this the eggs, which should be well whisked ;
line a buttered mould with the raisins, stoned and cut in half; spread
the slices of cake with the marmalade, and place them in the mould ;
then pour in the custard, tie the pudding down with paper and a cloth,
and boil gently for 1 hour : when cold, turn it out, and serve.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

COLLEGE PUDDINGS.

1 263. Ingredients. — 1 pint of bread crumbs, 6 oz. of finely-chopped
suet, ^ lb. of currants, a few thin slices of candied peel, 3 oz. of sugar,
.1 nutmeg, 3 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

Mode. — Put the bread crumbs into a basin ; add the suet, currants,
candied peel, sugar, and nutmeg, grated, and stir these ingredients
until they are thoroughly mixed. Peat up the eggs, moisten the pud-
ding with these, and put in the brandy ; beat well for a few minutes,

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

639

then form the mixture into round balls or egg-shaped pieces ; fry these
in hot butter or lard, letting them stew in it until thoroughly done,
and turn them two or three times, till of a fine light brown ; drain
them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire ; dish, and serve with
wine sauce.

Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost , Is.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 puddings. Seasonable at any time.

CUBEAUT DUMPLINGS.

1264. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of suet, i lb. of currants,
rather more than * pint of water.

Mode. — Chop the suet finely, mix it with the flour, and add the
currants, which should be nicely washed, picked, and dried ; mix the
whole to a limp paste with the water (if wanted very nice, use milk) ;
divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings ; tie them in cloths, and boil for I5 hour.
They may be boiled without a cloth : they should then be made into
round balls, and dropped into boiling water, and should be moved
about at first, to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the
saucepan. Serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted sugar.

Time. — In a cloth, l| hour ; without, f hour.

A verage cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Zante Currants. — The dried fruit which goes 'by the name
of currants in grocers’ shops is not a currant really, but a small
kind of grape, chiefly cultivated in the Morea and the Ionian
Islands, Corfu, Zante, &c. Those of Zante are cultivated in an
immense plain, under the shelter of mountains, on the shore of
the island, where the sun has great power, and brings them to
maturity. When gathered and dried by the sun and air, on
mats, they are conveyed to magazines, heaped together, and
left to cake, until ready for shipping. They are then dug out
by iron crowbars, trodden into casks, and exported. The fer-
tile vale of “Zante the woody” produces about 9,000,000 lbs.
of currants annually. In cakes and puddings this delicious
little grape is most extensively used ; in fact, we could not make
a plum pudding without the currant.

ZANTE CURRANTS.

BOILED CURRAET BUDDIE- G.

{Plain and Economical.)

1265. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of flour, l lb. of suet, i lb. of currants,
milk.

Mode.— Wash the currants, dry them thoroughly, and pick away
any stalks or grit; chop the suet finely; mix all the ingredients
together, and moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding into a
stiff batter ; tie it up iu a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and
boil for hours ; serve with a cut lemon, cold butter, and sifted sugar.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

010

Time. — 3.1 hours. Average cost, 10 d.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BLACK or RED CURRANT PUDDING.

1266. Ingredients. — 1 quart of red. or black currants, measured
■with the stalks, 5 lb. of moist sugar, suet crust No. 1215, or butter
crust No. 1213.

Mode. — Make, with % lb. of flour, either a suet crust or butter crust
(the former is usually made) ; butter a basin, and line it with part of
the crust ; put in the currants, which should be stripped from the
stalks, and sprinkle the sugar over them ; put the cover of the pudding
on ; make the edges very secure, that the juice does not escape ; tie it
down with a floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil from
2£ to 3 hours. Boiled without a basin, allow i hour less. We have
allowed rather a large proportion of sugar ; but we find fruit puddings
are so much more juicy and palatable whenw >ell sweetened before they
are boiled, besides being more economical. A few raspberries added
to red-currant pudding are a very nice addition : about s pint would
be sufficient for the above quantity of fruit. Fruit puddings are very
delicious if, when they are turned out of the basin, the crust is
browned with a salamander, or put into a very hot oven for a few
minutes to colour it : this makes it crisp on the surface.

Tune. — 2s to 3 hours ; without a basin, 2 to 2A
hours.

Average cost, in full season, 8 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable in June, July, and August.

Currants. — The utility of currants, red, black, or white, has
long been established in domestic economy. The juice of the
red species, if boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar, forms
an agreeable substance called currant jelly, much employed in
sauces, and very valuable in the cure of sore throats and colds.
The French mix it with sugar and wafer, and thus form an
agreeable beverage. The juice of eurrauts is a valuable remedy
in obstructions of the bowels ; and, in febrile complaints, it is
useful on account of its readily .quenching thirst, and for its
cooling effect on the stomach. White and flesh-coloured cur-
rants have, with the exception of the fullness of flavour, in
every respect, the same qualities ns the red species. Both white
CURRANTS. and red currants are pleasant additions to the dessert, but the

black variety is mostly used for culinary and medicinal purposes,
especially in the form of jelly for quinsies. The leaves of the black curraut make n
pleasant tea.

RED-CURRANT AND RASPBERRY TART.

1267. Ingredients. — lA pint of picked currants, 4 pint of rasp-
berries, 3 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist sugar, A lb. of short crust.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

G41

Mode— Strip the currants from the stalks, and put them into a
deep pie-dish, with a small cup placed in the midst, bottom upwards ;
add the raspberries and sugar ; place a border of paste round the edge
of the dish, coyer with crust, ornament the edges, and bake from f to
% hour : strew some sifted sugar oyer before being sent to table. This
tart is more generally served cold than hot.

Time.—i to % hour.

Average cost,

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in June, July, and August.

Raspbebeies. — There are two sorts of raspberries, the red
and the white. Both the scent and flavour of this fruit are
very refreshing, and the berry itself is exceedingly whole-
some, and invaluable to people of a nervous or bilious tern?
perament. We are not aware, however, of its being cultivated
with the same amount of care which is bestowed upon some
other of the berry tribe, although it is far from improbable
that a more careful cultivation would not be repaid by a con-
siderable improvement in the size and flavour of the berry;
neither, as an eating fruit, is it so universally esteemed as the
strawberry, with whose luseiousness and peculiarly agreeable
flavour it can bear no comparison. In Scotland, it is found
in large quantities, growing wild, and is eagerly sought after,
in the woods, by children. Its juice is rich and abundant,
and to many, extremely agreeable. easpbeeey.

BAKED CUSTARD PUDDING.

1268. Ingredients. — 14 pint of milk, the rind of £ lemon, \ lb. of
moist sugar, 4 eggs.

Mode. — Put the milk into a saucepan with the sugar and lemon-
rind, and let this infuse for about 4 hour, or until the milk is well
flavoured ; whisk the eggs, yolks and whites ; pour the milk to them,
stirring all the while ; then have ready a pie-dish, lined at the edge
with paste ready baked ; strain the custard into the dish, grate a little
nutmeg over the top, and bake in a very sloio oven for about 4 hour,
or rather longer. The flavour of this pudding may he varied by
substituting bitter almonds for the lemon-rind ; and it may be very
much enriched by using half cream and half milk, and doubling the
quantity of eggs.

Time. — 4 to f hour. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — This pudding is usually served cold with fruit tarts.

BOILED CUSTARD PUDDING.

1269. Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 4 eggs,
flavouring to taste.

2 T

G42

MODERN UOUSEUOrJD COOKERY.

Mode. — Flavour tlic milk by infusing in it a little lemon-rind or
cinnamon ; -whisk the eggs, stir the flour gradually to these, and pour
over them the milk, and stir the mixture well. Butter a basin that
will exactly hold it ; put in the custard, and tie a floured cloth over ;
plunge it into boiling water, and turn it about for a few minutes, to
prevent the flour from settling in one part. Boil it slowly for \ hour ;
turn it out of the basin, and serve. The pudding may be garnished
with red-currant jelly, and sweet sauce may be sent to table with it.

Time. — 4 hour. Average cost, 7 d.

Sufficient for 5 or G persons. Seasonable at any time.

DAMSON TART.

1270. Ingredients. — H pint of damsons, £ lb. of moist sugar, £ lb.
of short or puff crust.

Mode. — Put the damsons, with the sugar between them, into a deep
pie-dish, in themidst of which, place a small cup or jar turned upside
down ; pile the fruit high in the middle, line the edges of the dish with
short or puff crust, whichever may be preferred ; put on the cover,
ornament the edges, and bake from £ to $ hour in a good oven. If
puff-crust is used, about 10 minutes before the pie is done, take it out
of the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg beaten to a froth
with the blade of a knife ; strew some sifted sugar over, and a few
drops of water, and put the tart back to finish baking : with short
crust, a little plain sifted sugar, sprinkled over, is all that will be
required.

DAMSONS.

Time. — 4 to | hour.

Average cost, 10c?.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in September and October.

Damsons. — Whether for jam, jelly, pie, pudding, water, ice,
wiue, dried fruit or preserved, the damson, or damascene (for it
was originally brought from Damascus, whence its name), is in-
valuable. It combines sugary and acid qualities in happy pro-
portions, when full ripe. It is a fruit easily cultivated ; and, if
budded nine inches from the ground on vigorous stocks, it will
grow several feet high in the first year, and make fine standards
the year following. Amongst the list of the best sorts of baking
plums, the damson stauds first, not only on account of the
abundance of its juice, but also on account of its soon softening.
Because of the roughness of its Buyout, it requires a largo
quantity of sugar.

DAMSON PUDDING.

1271. Ingredients. — 1| pint of damsons, \ lb. of moist sugar, f lb.
of suet or butter crust.

Mode. — Make a suet crust with § lb. of flour by recipe No. 1215 ;

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

043

lino a buttered pudding-basin with a portion of it ; till the basin with
the damsons, sweeten them, and put on the lid ; pinch the edges of
the crust together, that the juice does not escape ; tie over a floured
cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2i to 3 hours.

Time. — 24 to 3 hours. Average cost, 8 cl.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. . .

Seasonable in September and October.

DELHI PUDDING.

1272. INGREDIENTS. — 4 large apples, a little grated nutmeg, 1 tea-
spoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 large tablespoonfuls of sugar, 6 oz.
of currants, f lb. of suet crust Ho. 1215.

Mode. — Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices ; put them into a
saucepan, with the nutmeg, lemon-peel, and sugar ; stir them over
the fire until soft ; then have ready the above proportion of crust, roll
it out thin, spread the apples over the paste, sprinkle over the cur-
rants, roll the pudding up, closing the ends properly, tie it in a floured
cloth, and boil for 2 hours.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from August to March.

EMPEESS PUDDING.

1273. Ingredients. — § lb. of rice, 2 oz. of butter, 3 eggs, jam, suf-
ficient milk to soften the rice.

Mode. — Boil the rice in the milk until very soft ; then add the butter ;
boil it for a few minutes after the latter ingredient is put in, and set
it by to cool. AY ell beat the eggs, stir these in, and line a dish with
puff-paste ; put over this a layer of rice, then a thin layer of any
kind of jam, then another layer of rice, and proceed in this manner
until the dish is full ; and bake in a moderate oven for § hour. This
pudding may be eaten hot or cold ; if the latter, it will be much
improved by having a boiled custard poured over it.

Time. — § hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.

EXETER PUDDING.

( Very rich.)

1274. Ingredients. — 10 oz. of bread crumbs, 4 oz. of sago, 7oz. of
finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of moist sugar, the rind of 4 lemon, £ pint
of rum, 7 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, 4 small sponge cakes, 2 oz.
of ratafias, 4 lb. of jam.

2 T 2

G41

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — Put the bread crumbs into a basin with the sago, suet,
sugar, minced lemon-peel, rum, and 4 eggs; stir these ingredients
well together, then add 3 more eggs and the cream, and let the mix-
ture he well beaten. Then butter a mould, strew in a few bread crumbs,
and cover the bottom with a layer of ratafias ; then put in a layer of
the mixture, then a layer of sliced sponge cake spread thickly with
any kind of jam ; then add some ratafias, then some of the mixture
and sponge cake, and so on until the mould is full, taking care that a
layer of the mixture is on the top of the pudding. Bake in a good
oven from f to 1 hour, and serve with the following sauce Put 3
tablespoonfuls of black-currant jelly into a stewpan, add 2 glasses of
sherry, and, when warm, turn the pudding out of the mould, pour
the sauce over it, and serve hot.

Time. — From 1 to lj hour. Average cost, 2s. 6 d.

Sufficient for 7 or S persons. Seasonable at any time.

FIG PUDDING.

1275. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of figs, 1 lb. of suet, i lb. of flour, i lb.
of bread crumbs, 2 eggs, milk.

Mode. — Cut the figs into small pieces, grate the bread finely, and
chop the suet very small ; mix these well together, add the flour, the
eggs, which should be well beaten, and sufficient milk to form the
whole into a stiff paste ; butter a mould or basin, press the pudding
into it very closely, tie it down with a cloth, and boil for 3 hours, or
rather longer ; turn it out of the mould, and serve with melted butter,
wine-sauce, or cream.

Time. — 3 hours, or longer. Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable. — Suitable for a winter pudding.

11.

(Staffordshire Recipe.)

1276. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of figs, 6 oz. of suet, f lb. of flour, milk.

Mode. — Chop the suet finely, mix with it the flour, and make these
into a smooth paste with milk ; roll it out to the thickness of about
5 inch, cut the figs in small pieces, and strew them over the paste ;
roll it up, make the ends secure, tie the pudding in a cloth, and boil
it from li to 2 hours.

Time. — li to 2 hours. Average cost, Is. 1 d.

Sufficient for 5 or G persons. Seasonable at any time.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

645

FOLKESTONE PUDDING-PIES.

1277. Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, 3 oz. of ground rice, 3 oz. of
butter, I lb. of sugar, flavouring of lemon-peel or bay-leaf, 6 eggs,
puff-paste, currants.

Mode. — Infuse 2 laurel or bay leaves, or the rind of 4 lemon, in the
milk, and when it is well flavoured, strain it, and add the rice ; boil
these for j hour, stirring all the time ; then take them off the fire, stir
in the butter, sugar, and eggs, and let these latter be well beaten
before they are added to the other ingredients ; when nearly cold, line
some patty-pans with puff-paste, fill with the custard, strew over each
a few currants, and bake from 20 to 25 minutes in a moderate oven.

Time. — 20 to 25 minutes. Average cost, Is. Id.

Sufficient to fill a dozen patty-pans.

Seasonable at any time.

FRUIT TURNOVERS (suitable for Pie-Nics).

1278. Ingredients.— Puff-paste No. 1206, any kind of fruit, sugar
to taste.

Mode. — Make some puff-paste by recipe No. 1206 ; roll it out to the
thickness of about ? inch, and cut it out in pieces of a circular form ;
pile the fruit on half of the paste, sprinkle over some sugar, wet the
edges and turn the paste over. Press the edges together, ornament
them, 'and brush the turnovers over with the white of an egg ; sprinkle
over sifted sugar, and bake on tins, in a brisk oven, for about 20
minutes. Instead of putting the fruit in raw, it may be boiled down
with a little sugar first, and then inclosed in the crust ; or jam, of any
kind, may be substituted for fresh fruit.

Time. — 20 minutes.

Sufficient — i lb. of puff-paste will make a dozen turnovers.

Seasonable at any time.

GERMAN PUDDING.

1279. Ingredients. — 2 teaspoonfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of arrow-
root, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, the rind of i lemon,
4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

Mode.— Boil the milk with the lemon-rind until well flavoured ; then
strain it, and mix with it the flour, arrowroot, butter, and sugar. Boil
these ingredients for a few minutes, keeping them well stirred ; then
take them off the fire and mix with them the eggs, yolks and whites,
beaten separately and added separately. Boil some sugar to candy ;
line a mould with this, put in the brandy, then the mixture ; tie down

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

646

with, a cloth, and boil for rather more than 1 hour. When turned out,
the brandy and sugar make a nice sauce.

Time. — Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost, is.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

DAMPFNUDELN, or GERMAN PUDDINGS.

1280. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of flour, i lb. of butter, 5 eggs, 2 small
tablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 tablespoonfuls of linely-pounded sugar, milk,
a very little salt.

Mode. — Put the flour into a basin, make a hole in the centre, into
•which put the yeast, and rather more than I pint of warm milk ; make
this into a batter with the middle of the flour, and let the sponge rise
in a warm temperature. When sufficiently risen, mix the eggs, butter,
sugar, and salt with a little more warm milk, and knead the whole
well together with the hands, heating the dough until it is perfectly
smooth, and it drops from the fingers. Then cover the basin with a
cloth, put it in a warm place, and when the dough has nicely risen,
knead it into small balls ; butter the bottom of a deep saute-pan, strew
over some pounded sugar, and let the dampfnudeln he laid in, but do
not let them touch one another ; then pour over sufficient milk
to cover them, put on the lid, and let them rise to twice their original
size by the side of the fire. Row place them in the oven for a few
minutes, to acquire a nice brown colour, and serve them on a napkin,
with custard sauce flavoured with vanilla, or a compote of any fruit
that may be preferred.

Time. — § to f hour for the sponge to rise ; 10 to 15 minutes for the
puddings to rise ; 10 minutes to bake them in a brisk oven.

Sufficient for 10 or 12 dampfnudeln.

Seasonable at any time.

GINGER PUDDING.

1281 . Ingredients.— h lb. of flour, 3 lb. of suet, 3 lb. of moistsugar,
2 large teaspoonfuls of grated ginger.

Mode. — Shred the suet very line, mix it with the flour, sugar, and
ginger ; stir all well^together ; butter a basin, and put the mixture in
dry ; tie a cloth over, and boil for 3 hours.

Time.— 3 hours. Average cost, 6d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

GOLDEN PUDDING.

1282. Ingredients.— 3 lb. of bread crumbs, £ lb. of suet, 3 lb. of
marmalade, i lb. of sugar, 4 eggs.

TODDINGS AND PASTRY.

647

diode. — Put tlie bread crumbs into a basin ; mix with them the suet,
•which should be finely minced, the marmalade, and the sugar ; stir
all these ingredients well together, beat the eggs to a froth, moisten
the pudding with these, and when well mixed, put it into a mould or
buttered basin ; tie down with a floured cloth, and boil for 2 hours.
When turned out, strew a little fine-sifted sugar oyer the top, and serve.
Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, lit?.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at -any time.

Note. — The mould may be ornamented with stoned raisins, arranged in any
fanciful pattern, before the mixture is poured in, which would add very much
to the appearance of the pudding. For a plainer pudding, double the quan-
tities of the bread crumbs, and if the eggs do not moisten it sufficiently, use
a little milk.

BAKED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.

1283. Ingredients.— Gooseberries, 3 eggs,, l-V oz. of butter, f pint
of bread crumbs, sugar to taste.

Mode. — Put the gooseberries into a jar, previously cutting off the
tops and tails ; place this jar in boiling water, and let it boil until
the gooseberries are soft enough to pulp ; then beat them through a
coarse sieve, and to every pint of pulp add 3 well-whislred eggs, lj oz.
of butter, f pint of bread crumbs, and sugar to taste ; beat the mixture
well, put a border of puff-paste round the edge of a pie-dish, put in
the pudding, bake for about 40 minutes, strew sifted sugar over, and
serve.

Time.— About 40 minutes. Average cost, 10 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from May to July.

BOILED GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.

1284. Ingredients. — % lb. of suet crust Ho. 1215, l| pint of green
gooseberries, J lb. of moist sugar.

diode. — Line a pudding-basin with suet crust Ho. 1215, rolled out
to about i inch in thickness, and, with a. pair of scissors, cut off the
tops and tails of the gooseberries ; fill the
basin with the fruit, put in the sugar, and
cover -with crust. Pinch the edges of the
pudding together, tie over it' a floured cloth,
put it into boiling water, and boil from 2* to
3 hours ; turn it out of the basin, and serve
with a jug of cream.

Time. — 24 to 3 hours. Average cost, 10 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from May to July.

BOILED FRUIT PUDDIHG.

G4S

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY-.

GOOSEBERRY TART.

1285. Ingredients.— 14 pint of gooseberries, | lb. of short crust
No. 1211, \ lb. of moist sugar.

Mode. — With a pair of scissors cut off the tops aud tails of the
gooseberries ; put them into a deep pie-dish, pile the fruit high in the
centre, and put in the sugar ; line the edge of the dish with short
crust, put on the cover, and ornament the edges of the tart ; bake in
a good oven for about f hour, and before being sent to table, strew
over it some fine-sifted sugar. A jug of cream, or a dish of boiled or
baked custards, should always accompany this dish.

Time. — § hour.

GOOSEBERRY.

Average cost , 9(7.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from May to July.

Gooseberries. — The red and the white are the two prin-
cipal varieties of gooseberries. The red are rather the
more acid; but, when covered with white sugar, are most
wholesome, because the sugar neutralizes their acidity.
Red gooseberries make an excellent jelly, which is light and
refreshing, but not very nourishing. It is good for bilious
and plethoric persons, and to invalids generally who need
light and digestible food. It is a fruit from which many
dishes might be made. All sorts of gooseberries are agree-
able when stewed, and, in this country especially, there is no
fruit so universally in favour. In Scotland, there is scarcely
a cottage-garden without its gooseberry-bush. Several of the
species are cultivated with the nicest care.

HALE-PAY PUDDING.

1286. Ingredients. — j lb. of suet, j lb. of currants, I lb. of raisins,
3 lb. of Hour, 3 lb. of bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of treacle, i pint
of milk.

Mode. — Chop the suet finely ; mix with it the currants, which
should be nicely washed and dried, the raisins, which should be
stoned, the flour, bread crumbs, and treacle ; moisten with the milk,
beat up the ingredients until all are thoroughly mixed, put them into
a buttered basin, and boil the pudding for 34 hours.

Time. — 3§ hours. Average cost , 8(7.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

HERODOTUS PUDDING.

1287. Ingredients. — § lb. of bread crumbs, 4 lb. of good figs, 6 oz.
of suet, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 4 saltspoonful of salt, 3 eggs, nutmeg
to taste.

Mode. — Mince the suet and figs very finely ; add the remaining
ingredients, taking care that the eggs are well whisked ; beat the

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

649

mixture for a few minutes, put it into a buttered mould, tie it down
with a floured cloth, and boil the pudding’ for 5 hours. Serve with
wine sauce.

Time. — 5 hours. Average cost, lOd.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

HUNTER’S PUDDING.

ia88. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet,
1 lb. of bread crumbs, f lb. of moist sugar, 8 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
flour, j lb. of mixed candied peel, 1 glass of brandy, 10 drops of
essence of lemon, 10 drops of essence of almonds, 3 nutmeg, 2 blades
of mace, 6 cloves.

Mode. — Stone and shred the raisins rather small, chop the suet
finely, and rub the bread uutil all lumps are well broken ; pound the
spice to powder, cut the candied peel into thin shreds, and mix all
these ingredients well together, adding the sugar. Beat the eggs to a
strong froth, and as they are beaten, drop into them the essence of
lemon and essence of almonds ; stir these to the dry ingredients, mix
well, and add the brandy. Tie the pudding firmly in a cloth, and boil
it for 6 hours at the least : 7 or 8 hours would be still better for it.
Serve with boiled custard, or red-currant jelly, or brandy sauce.

Time. — 6 to 8 hours. Average cost, 3s. 6 d.

Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons. Seasonable in winter.

ICED PUDDING.

(Parisian Recipe.)

i28g. Ingredients. — § lb. of sweet almonds, 2 oz. of bitter ones,
z lb. of sugar, 8 eggs, H pint of milk.

Mode. — Blanch and dry the almonds thoroughly in a cloth, then
pound them in a mortar until re-
duced to a smooth paste ; add to
these the well-beaten eggs, the
sugar, and milk; stir these in-
gredients over the fire until they
thicken, but do not allow them
to boil ; then strain and put the
mixture into the freezing-pot;
surround it with ice, and freeze
it as directed in recipe 1290.

When quite frozen, fill an iced-
pudding mould, put on the lid,
and keep the pudding in ice until

ICED-PUDDING MOULD.

C50

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

required for table ; then turn it out on the dish, and garnish it with
a compute of any fruit that may be preferred, pouring a little over the
top of the pudding. This pudding may be flavoured with vanilla,
Curagoa, or Maraschino.

Time. — i hour to freeze the mixture.

Seasonable. — Served all the year round.

ICED APPLE PUDDING.

(French Recipe, after CarSme.)

1290. Ingredients. — 2 dozen apples, a small pot of apricot-jam,
§ lb. of sugar, 1 Seville orange, £ pint of preserved cherries, \ lb. of
raisins, 1 oz. of citron, 2 oz. of almonds, 1 gill of Curagoa, 1 gill of
Maraschino, 1 pint of cream.

Mode. — Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and simmer
them over the fire until soft; then mix with them the
apricot-jam and the sugar, on which the rind of the orange

I should be previously rubbed ; work all these ingredients

through a sieve, and put them into the freezing-pot. Stone
the raisins, and simmer them in a little syrup for a few
minutes ; add these, with the sliced ci-
tron, the almonds cut in dice, and the
cherries drained from their syrup, to the
ingredients in the freezing-pot ; put in
the Curagoa and Maraschino, and freeze
again ; add as much whipped cream as
will be required, freeze again, and fill
the mould. Put the lid on, and plunge
the mould into the ice-pot ; cover it with
a wet cloth and pounded ice and saltpetre,
where it should remain until wanted for
table. Turn the pudding out of the mould
on. to a- clean and neatly- folded napkin,
and serve, as sauce, a little iced whipped
spatice. cream, in a sauce-tureen or glass dish. ioe-pbbezing pail.

Time — 5 hour to freeze the mixture.

Seasonable from August to March.

Method of worhivg the freezing Apparatus. — Put into the outer
pail some pounded, ice,, upon which strew some saltpetre; then fix
the pewter freezing^pot upon this, and surround it entirely with ice
and saltpetre. Wipe the cover and edges of the pot, pour in the pre-
paration, and close the lid ; a quarter of an hour after, begiu turning
the freezing-pan from right to left, and when the mixture begins to

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

651

be firm round the sides of the pot, stir it about with the slice or
spattle, that the preparation may be equally congealed. Close the
lid again, keep working from right to left, and, from time to time,
remove the mixture from the sides, that it may be smooth ; and when
perfectly frozen, it is ready to put in the mould ; the mould should
then be placed in the ice again, where it should remain until wanted
for table.

HOLT-POLY JAM PUDDING.

1291. Ingredients. — | lb of suet-crust Ho. 1215, § lb. of any kind
of jam.

Mode. — Make a nice light suet-crust by recipe No. 1215, and roll it
out to the thickness of about i inch. Spread the jam equally over it,
leaving a small margin of paste without any, where the pudding joins.
Noll it up, fasten the ends securely, and tie it in a floured cloth ; put
the pudding into boiling water, and boil for 2 hours. Mincemeat or
marmalade may be substituted for the jam, and makes excellent
puddings.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 2d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Suitable for winter puddings, when fresh fruit is not
obtainable.

LEMOjXT cheesecakes.

1292. Ingredients.— j lb. of butter, 1 lb. of loaf sugar, 6 eggs, the
rind of 2 lemons and the juice of 3.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, carefully grating
the lemon-rind and straining the juice. Keep stirring the mixture
over the fire until the sugar is dissolved, and it begins to thicken :
when of the consistency of honey, it is done ; then put it into small
jars, and keep in a dry place. This mixture will remain good 3 or 4
months. When made into cheesecakes, add a few pounded almonds,
or candied peel, or grated sweet biscuit ; line some patty-pans with
good puff-paste, rather more than half fill them with the mixture, and
bake for about \ hour in a good brisk oven.

Time. — J hour. Average cost, Is. id.

Sufficient for 24 cheesecakes. Seasonable at any time.

LEMON MINCEMEAT.

1293. Ingredients. — 2 large lemons, 6 large apples, i lb. of suet,
1 lb. of currants, lb. of sugar, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of
citron, mixed spice to taste.

Mode. — Pare the lemons, squeeze them, and boil the peel until
tender enough to mash. Add to the mashed lemon-peel the apples,

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

U52

which should be pared, cored, and minced; the chopped suet, currants,
sugar, sliced peel, and spice. Strain the lemon-juice to these ingre-
dients, stir the mixture well, and put it in a jar with a closely-fitting
lid. Stir occasionally, and in a week or 10 days the mincemeat will
be ready for use.

Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for 18 large or 24 small pies.

Seasonable. — Make this about the beginning of December.

LEMON DUMPLINGS.

1294. Ingredients.— § lb. of grated bread, \ lb. of chopped suet,
i lb. of moist sugar, 2 eggs, 1 large lemon.

Mode. — Mix the bread, suet, and moist sugar well together, adding
the lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced. Moisten with
the eggs and strained lemon- juice; stir well,
and put the mixture into small buttered cups.
Tie them down and boil for § hour. Turn
them out on a dish, strew sifted sugar over
them, and serve with wine sauce.

Time. — f hour. Average cost, id.

Sufficient for 6 dumplings. Seasonable at any time.

LEMON DVHPLINGS.

BAKED LEMON PUDDING.

1295. Ingredients. — The yolks of 4 eggs, 4 oz. of pounded sugar,
1 lemon, £ lb. of butter, puff-crust.

Mode. — Beat the eggs to a froth ; mix with them the sugar and
warmed butter ; stir these ingredients well together, putting in the
grated rind and strained juice of the lemon-peel. Line a shallow dish
with puff-paste ; put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven
for 40 minutes ; turn the pudding out of the dish, strew over it sifted
sugar, and serve.

Time. — 40 minutes. Average cost, 10c?.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

ii.

1296. Ingredients. — 10 oz. of bread crumbs, 2 pints of milk, 2 oz.
of butter, 1 lemon, \ lb. of pounded sugar, 4 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of
brandy.

Mode. — Bring the milk to the boiling point, stir in the butter, and
pour these hot over the bread crumbs ; add the sugar and very finely-
minced lemon-peel ; beat the eggs, and stir these in with the brandy

PUDDINGS AND PASTIIV.

CoS

to the other ingredients ; put a paste round the dish, and bake for
3 hour.

Time. — 3 hour. Average cost, Is. 2 cl.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Lemon. — The lemon is a variety of the citron. The juice
of this fruit makes one of our most popular and refreshing
beverages — lemonade, which is gently stimulating and cool-
ing, and soon quenches the thirst. It may be freely par-
taken by bilious and sanguine temperaments ; but persons
with irritable stomachs should avoid it, on account of its acid
qualities. The fresh rind of the lemon is a gentle tonic, and,
when dried and grated, is used in flavouring a variety of culi-
nary preparations. Lemons appear in company with the
orange in most orange-growing countries. They were only
known to the Homans at a very late period, and, at first, were
used only to keep the moths from their garments : their
acidity was unpleasant to them. In the time of Pliny, the
lemon was hardly known otherwise than as an excellent
eounter-poisou.

III.

( Very rich.)

1297. Ingredients. — The rind and juice of 2 large lemons, i lb, of
loaf sugar, 5 pint of cream, the yolks of 8 eggs, 2 oz. of almonds, i lb.
of butter, melted.

Mode. — Mix the pounded sugar with the cream, and add the yolks
of eggs and the butter, which should be previously warmed. Blanch
and pound the almonds, and put these, with the grated rind and
strained juice of the lemons, to the other ingredients. Stir all well
together ; line a dish with puff-paste, put in the mixture, and bake
for 1 hour.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BOILED LEMON PUDDING.

1298. Ingredients. — 4 lb. of chopped suet, f lb. of bread crumbs,
2 small lemons, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 3 lb. of flour, 2 eggs, milk.

Mode. — Mix the suet, bread crumbs, sugar, and flour well together,
adding the lemon-peel, which should be very finely minced, and the
juice, which should be strained. When these ingredients are well
mixed, moisten with the eggs and sufficient milk to make the pudding
of the consistency of thick batter ; put it into a well-buttered mould,
and boil for 34 hours ; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve
with wine sauce, or not, at pleasure.

Time. — 3| hours. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — This pudding may also be baked, and will be found very good, It
will take about 2 hours.

LEMON.

654

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

PLAIN LEMON PUDDING.

1299. Ingredients.— % lb. of flour, 6 oz. of lard or dripping, the
juice of 1 large lemon, 1 teaspoonful of flour, sugar.

Mode. — Make the above proportions of flour and lard into a smooth
paste, 'and roll it out to the thickness of about £ inch. Squeeze the
lemon-juice, strain it into a cup, stir the flour into it, and as much
moist sugar as will make it into a stiff and thick paste ; spread this
mixture over the paste, roll it up, secure the ends, and tie the pudding
in a floured cloth. Boil for 2 hours.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 7 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

MANCHESTER PUDDING (to eat Cold).

1300. Ingredients. — 3 oz. of grated bread, & pint of milk, a strip
of lemon-peel, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, sugar to taste, puff-paste, j am,
3 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

Mode. — Flavour the milk with lemon-peel, by infusing it in
the milk for § hour ; then strain it on to the bread crumbs, and
boil it for 2 or 3 minutes ; add the eggs, leaving out the whites of 2,
the butter, sugar, and brandy; stir all these ingredients well together ;
cover a pie-dish with puff-paste, and at the bottom put a thick layer
of any kind of jam ; pour the above mixture, cold, on the jam, and
bake the pudding for an hour. Serve cold, with a little sifted sugar
sprinkled over.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

SWEET MACARONI PUDDING.

1301. Ingredients. — oz. of macaroni, 2 pints of milk, the rind
of 4 lemoD, 3 eggs, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls
of brandy.

Mode. — Put the macaroni, with a pint of the milk, into a saucepan
with the lemon-peel, and let it simmer gently until the macaroni is
tender ; then put it into a pie-dish without the peel ; mix the other
pint of milk with the eggs ; stir these well together, adding the
sugar and brandy, and pour the mixture over the macaroni. Grate a
little nutmeg over the top, and bake in a moderate oven for 5 hour.
To make this pudding look nice, a paste should be daid round the
edges of the dish, and, for variety, a layer of preserve or marmalade
may be placed on the macaroni : in this case omit the brandy.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

655

Time. — f hour to simmer the macaroni ; 3 hour to bake the

pudding.

Average cost, lid.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable at any time.

Macaboni is composed of wlieaten flour, flavoured with other
articles, and worked up with water into a paste, to which, , by <1
peculiar process, a tubular or pipe form is given, m order that it
may cook more readily in hot water. That of smaller diameter
than macaroni (which is about the thickness of a goose-quill)
is called vei'inicelli ; and when smaller still, Jidelini. The finest
is made from the flour of the hard-grained Black-Sea wheat.
Macaroni is the principal article of food in many parts of Italy,
particularly Naples, where the best is manufactured, and from
whence, also, it is exported in considerable quantities. In this
country, macaroni and vermicelli are frequently used in soups.

macaboni.

MAH HA KROUP PUDDING.

1302. Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of manna kroup, 12 bitter
almonds, 1 pint of milk, sugar to taste, 3 eggs.

Mode. — Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar ; mix them
•with the manna kroup ; pour over these a pint of boiling milk, and
let them steep for about \ hour. When nearly cold, add sugar and
the well-beaten eggs ; mix all well together ; put the pudding into a
buttered dish, and bake for § hour.

Time. — | hour. Average cost,

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Manna Knour, Sehoba, or Semolina, are three names given to a flour made from
ground wheat and rice. The preparation is white when it is made only of these mate-
rials ; the yellow colour which it usually has, is produced by a portion of saffron and yolks
of eggs. Next to vermicelli, this preparation is the most useful for thickening either
meat or vegetable soups. As a food, it is light, nutritious, wholesome, and easily
digested. The host preparation is brought from Arabia, and, next to that, from Italy.

MAH SHIELD PUDDING.

1303. Ingredients.— The crumb of 2 rolls, 1 pint of milk, sugar
to taste, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 6 oz. of chopped suet, 2
tablespoonfuls of flour, i lb. of currants, § teaspoonful of grated
nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.

Mode. — Slice the roll very thin, and pour upon it a pint of boiling-
milk ; let it remain covered close for £ hour, then beat it up with a
fork, and sweeten with moist sugar ; stir in the chopped suet, flour,
currants, and nutmeg. Mix these ingredients well together, moisten
with the eggs, brandy, and cream ; beat the mixture for 2 or 3
minutes, put it into a buttered dish or mould, and bake in a moderate
oven for l* hour. Turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, and serve.

Time. — 1£ hour. Average cost, Is. 3d.

Sufficient for G or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.

(550

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

MARLBOROUGH PUDDING.

1304. Ingredients.— £ lb. of butter, £ lb. of powdered lump
sugar, 4 eggs, puff-paste, a layer of auy kind of jam.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the powdered sugar,
whisk the eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When these
are well mixed, line a dish with puff- paste, spread over a layer of any
kind of jam that may be preferred, pour in the mixture, and bake
the pudding for rather more than £ hour.

Time.— Bather more than £ hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

MARMALADE AND VERMICELLI PUDDING.

1305. Ingredients. — 1 breakfastcupful of vermicelli, 2 tablespoon-
fuls of marmalade, £ lb. of raisins, sugar to taste, 3 eggs, milk.

Mode. — Pour some boiling milk on the vermicelli, and let it remain
covered for 10 minutes ; then mix with it the marmalade, stoned raisins,
sugar, and beaten eggs. Stir all well together, put the mixture into
a buttered mould, boil for if hour, and serve with custard sauce.

Time. — If hour. Average cost. Is.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

MARROW DUMPLINGS, to serve with. Roast Meat, in
Soup, with Salad, &c.

(German Recipe.)

1306. Ingredients. — 1 oz. of beef marrow, 1 oz. of butter, 2 eggs,
2 penny rolls, 1 teaspoonful of minced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced
parsley, salt and grated nutmeg to taste.

Mode. — Beat the marrow and butter together to a cream ; well whisk
the eggs, and add these to the other ingredients. When they are well
stirred, put in the rolls, which should previously be well soaked in
boiling milk, strained, and beaten up with a fork. Add the remain-
ing ingredients, omitting the minced onion where the flavour is very
much disliked, and form the mixture into small round dumplings.
Drop these into boiling broth, and let them simmer for about 20
minutes or £ hour. They may be served in soup, with roast meat, or
with salad, as in Germany, where they are more frequently sent to
table than in this country. They are very good.

Time. — 20 minutes to £ hour. Average cost, (id.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 dumplings. Seasonable at any time.

BAKED OR BOILED MARROW PUDDING.

1307. Ingredients.— £ pint of bread crumbs, l£ pint of milk, 6 oz.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

Gt>/

of marrow, 4 eggs, j lb. of raisins or currants, or 2 oz. of each ; sugar
and grated nutmeg to taste.

Mode. — Make the milk boiling, pour it hot on to the bread crumbs,
and let these remain covered for about § hour ; shred the marrow,
beat up the eggs, and mix these with the bread crumbs ; add the
remaining ingredients, beat the mixture well, and either put it into
a buttered mould and boil it for 2i hours, or put it into a pie-dish
edged with puff-paste, and bake for rather more than § hour. Before
sending it to table, sift a little pounded sugar over, after being turned
out of the mould or basin.

Time. — 21 hours to boil, f hour to bake. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

MILITARY PUDDINGS.

1308. Ingeedients.— § lb. of suet, i lb. of bread crumbs, ! lb. of
moist sugar, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon.

Mode. — Chop the suet finely, mix it with the bread crumbs and
sugar, and mince the lemon-rind and strain the juice ; stir these into
the other ingredients, mix well, and put the mixture into small
buttered cups, and bake for rather more than i hour ; turn them out
on the dish, and serve with lemon-sauce. The above ingredients
may be made into small balls, and boiled for about § hour ; they
should then'be served with the same sauce as when baked.

Time.— Bather more than i hour. Average cost, 9c/.

Sufficient to fill 6 or 7 moderate-sized cups. Seasonable at anytime.

MINCEMEAT.

1309. Ingkedients. — 2 lbs. of raisins, 3 lbs. of currants, li lb. of
lean beef, 3 lbs. of beef suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 2 oz. of citron,
2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, 2 oz. of candied orange-peel, 1 small
nutmeg, 1 pottle of apples, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, t pint
of brandy.

Mode.— Stone and cut the raisins once or twice across, but do not
chop them ; wash, dry, and pick the currants free from stalks and
grit, and mince the beef and suet, taking care that the latter is
chopped very fine ; slice the citron and candied peel, grate the nut-
meg, and pare, core, and mince the apples; mince the demon-peel,
strain the juice, and when all the ingredients are thus prepared, mix
them well together, adding the brandy when the other things are
well blended ; press the whole into a jar, carefully exclude the air,
and the mincemeat will be ready for use in a fortnight.

Average cost for this quantity, 8 cl.

Seasonable.— Make this about the beginning of December.

2 u

653

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKER Y.

EXCELLENT MINCEMEAT.

1310. Ingredients.— 3 large lemons, 3 large apples, 1 lb. of stoned
raisins, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of suet, 2 lbs. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of
sliced candied citron, 1 oz. of sliced candied orange-peel, and the
same quantity of lemon-peel, 1 teacupful of brandy, 2 tablespoonfuls
of orange marmalade.

Mode. — Grate tbe rinds of the lemons ; squeeze out the juice, strain
it, and boil the remainder of the lemons until tender enough to
pulp or chop very finely. Then add to this pulp the apples, which
should be baked, and their skins and cores removed ; put in the
remaining ingredients one by one, and, as they are added, mix every-
thing very thoroughly together. Put the mincemeat into a stone
jar with a closely-fitting lid, and in a fortnight it will be ready
for use.

Seasonable. — This should be made the first or second week in De-
cember.

MINCE PIES.

1311. Ingredients. — Good puff-paste No. 1205, mincemeat No. 1309.

Mode. — Make some good puff-paste by recipe Ho. 1205 ; roll it out
to the thickness of about j inch, and line some good-sized pattypans
with it ; fill them with mincemeat, cover with
the paste, and cut it off all round close to the
edge of the tin. Put the pies into a brisk oven,
to draw the paste up, and bake for 25 minutes,
or longer, should the pies be very large ; brush
them over with the white of an egg, beaten
with the blade of a knife to a stiff froth ; sprinkle over pounded sugar,
and put them into the oven for a minute or two, to dry the egg ; dish
the pies on a white d’oyley, and serve hot. They may be merely
sprinkled writh pounded sugar instead of being glazed, when that
mode is preferred. To re-warm them, put the pies on the pattypans,
and let them remain in the oven for 10 minutes or 5 hour, and they
will be almost as good as if freshly made.

Time. — 25 to 30 minutes ; 10 minutes to re-warm them.

MOVE PIES.

A verage cost, 4 d. each.

Sufficient — 1 lb. of paste for 4 pies.

Seasonable at Christmas time .

MONDAY’S PUDDING.

1312. Ingredients. — The remains of cold plum-pudding, brandy,
custard made with 5 eggs to every pint of milk.

Mode. — Cut the remains of a good cold plum-pudding into linger-

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

059

pieces, soak them in a little brandy, and lay them cross-barred in a
mould until full. Make a custard with the above proportion of milk
and eggs, flavouring it with nutmeg or lemon-rind ; fill up the mould
with it ; tie it down with a cloth, and boil or steam it for an hour.
Serve with a little of the custard poured over, to which has been added
a tablespoonful of brandy.

Time. — 1 hour. A verage cost, exclusive of the pudding, Gel.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

NESSELRODE PUDDING-.

[A fashionable iced pudding — Cartme's Recipe.)

1313. Ingredients.— 10 chestnuts, 1 lb. of sugar, flavouring of
vanilla, 1 pint of cream, the yolks of 12 eggs, 1 glass of Maraschino,

1 oz. of candied citron, 2 oz. of currants, 2 oz. of stoned raisins, i pint
of whipped cream, 3 eggs.

Mode. — Blanch the chestnuts in boiling water, remove the husks,
and pound them in a mortar until perfectly smooth, adding a few
spoonfuls of syrup. Then' rub them through a fine sieve, and mix
them in a basin with a pint of syrup made from 1 lb. of sugar, clari-
fied, and flavoured with vanilla, 1 pint of cream, and the yolks of
12 eggs. Set this mixture over a slow fire, stirring it without ceasing,
and just as it begins to boil, take it off and pass it through a tammy.
"When it is cold, put it into a freezing-pot, adding the Maraschino, and
make the mixture set ; then add the sliced citron, the currants, and
stoned raisins (these two latter should be soaked the day previously
in Maraschino and sugar pounded with vanilla) ; the whole thus
mingled, add a plateful of whipped cream mixed with the whites
of 3 eggs, beaten to a froth with a little syrup. When the pudding
is perfectly frozen, put it into a pineapple-shaped mould ; close the
lid, place it again in the freezing-pan, covered over with pounded
ice and saltpetre, and let it remain until required for table ; then
turn the pudding out, and serve.

Time. — 4 hour to freeze the mixture.

Seasonable from October to February.

BAKED ORANGE PUDDING.

131 4- Ingredients. — 6 oz. of stale sponge cake or bruised ratafias,
6 oranges, 1 pint of milk, 6 eggs, % lb. of sugar.

Mode. — Bruise the sponge cake or ratafias into fine crumbs, and
pour upon them the milk, which should be boiling. Bub the rinds of

2 of the oranges on sugar, and add this, with the j uice of the remainder,
to the other ingredients. Beat up the eggs, stir them in, sweeten to

2 u 2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

060

taste, and put the mixture into a pie-dish previously lined with puff-
paste. hake for rather more than 3 hour; turn it out of the dish,
strew sifted sugar over, and serve.

Time. — ltather more than l hour. Average cost, Is. (id.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from November to May.

Orange ( Citrus Aurantium) . — The principal varieties are the sweet, or China orange,
and the bitter, or Seville orange ; the Maltese is also worthy of notice, from its red
blood-like pulp. The orange is extensively cultivated in
the south of Europe, and in Devonshire, on walls with a
south aspect, it bears an abundance of fruit. So great is
the increase in the demand for the orange, and so ample
the supply, that it promises to rival the apple in its popu-
larity. The orange-tree is considered young at the age of
a hundred years. The pulp of the orange consists of a
collection of oblong vesicles filled with a sugary and re-
freshing juice. The orange blossom is proverbially chosen
for the bridal wreath, and, from the same flower, an es-
sential oil is extracted hardly less esteemed than the cele-
brated ottar of roses. Of all marmalades, that made from
the Seville orange is the best. The peel and juice of the
orange are much used in culinary preparations. From
oranges are made preserves, comfltures, jellies, glacds,
sherbet, liqueurs, ana syrups. The juice of the orange in a
glass d’eau sucree makes a refreshing and wholesome drink.
orange. From the clarified pulp of the orange the French make a

delicious jelly, which they serve in small pots, and call
creme. The rasped peel of the orange is used in several sweet entremets, to which it
communicates its perfume. The confectioner manufactures a variety of dainties from
all parts of the orange. Confections of orange-peel are excellent tonics and stomachics.
Persons with delicate stomachs should abstain from oranges at dessert, because their
acidity is likely to derange the digestive organs.

SMALL DISHES OF PASTRY FOR ENTREMETS, SUPPER-

DISHES, &c.

PAKCHONNETTES, or CUSTARD TARTLETS.

1315. Ingbedients.— For the custard, 4 eggs, § pint of milk, 2 oz.
of butter, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, 3 dessertspoonfuls of flour, flavouring
to taste ; the whites of 2 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar.

Mode. — Well beat the eggs ; stir to them the milk, the butter, which
should be beaten to a cream, the sugar, and flour ; mix these ingre-
dients well together, put them into a very clean saucepan, and bring
them to the simmering point, but do not allow them to boil. Flavour
with essence of vanilla, bitter almonds, lemon, grated chocolate, or
any flavouring ingredient that may be preferred. Line some round
tartlet-pans with good puff-paste ; fill them with the custard, and
bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes ; then take them out
of the pans ; let them cool, and in the mean time whisk the whites of
the eggs to a stiff froth ; stir into this the pounded sugar, and spread
smoothly over the tartlets a little of this mixture. Put them in the
oven again to set the icing, but be particular that they do not scorch :

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

661

when the icing looks crisp, they are done. Arrange them, piled high
in the centre, on a white napkin, and garnish the dish, and in between
the tartlets, with strips of bright jelly, or very firmly-made preserve.

Time. — 20 minutes to bake the tartlets ; 5 minutes after being iced.

Average cost, exclusive of the paste, Is.

Sufficient to fill 10 or 12 tartlets. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — The icing may be omitted on the top of the tartlets, and a spoonful
of any kind of preserve put at the bottom of the custard instead : this varies
both the flavour and appearance of this dish.

ALMOND FLOWERS.

1316. Ingredients. — Puff-paste No. 1205; to every i lb. of paste
allow 3 oz. of almonds, sifted sugar, the white of an egg.

Mode. — Poll the paste out to the thickness of j inch, and, with a
round fluted cutter, stamp out as many pieces as may be required.
Work the paste up again, roll it out, and, with a smaller cutter,
stamp out some pieces the size of a shilling. Brush the larger pieces
over with the white of an egg, and place one of the smaller pieces on
each. Blanch and cut the almonds into strips lengthwise ; press them
slanting into the paste closely round the rings ; and when they are all
completed, sift over some pounded sugar, and bake for about 5 hour or
20 minutes. Garnish between the almonds with strips of apple jelly,
and place in the centre of the ring a small quantity of strawberry
jam ; pile them high on the dish, and serve.

Time. — \ hour or 20 minutes.

Sufficient. — 18 or 20 for a dish. Seasonable at any time.

FLUTED ROLLS.

1 3 1 7- Ingredients. — Puff-paste, the white of an egg, sifted sugar,
jelly or preserve.

Mode. — Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205 (trimmings
answer very well for little dishes of this sort)'; roll it out to the
thickness of 4 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-cutter, stamp out
as many round pieces as may be required ; brush over the Upper side
with the white of an egg ; roll up the pieces, pressing the paste lightly
together where it joins ; place the rolls on a baking-sheet, and bake
for about { hour. A few minutes before they are done, brush them
over with the white of an egg ; strew over sifted sugar, put them back
in the oven ; and when the icing is firm and of a pale brown colour,
they are done. Place a strip of jelly or preserve across each roll, dish
them high on a napkin, and serve cold.

602

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — \ hour before being iced ; 5 to 10 minutes after.

Average cost, Is. 3d.

Sufficient. — h lb. of puff-paste for 2 dislies.

Seasonable at any time.

PASTRY SANDWICHES.

1318. Ingredients. — Puff-paste, jam of any kind, the white of an
egg, sifted sugar.

Mode. — Roll the paste out thin ; put half of it on a baking-sheet or
tin, and spread equally oyer it apricot, greengage, or any preserve that
may be preferred. Lay over this preserve another thin paste ; press the
edges together all round ; and mark the paste in lines with a knife on
the surface, to show where to cut it when baked. Bake from 20
minutes to | hour ; and, a short time before being done, take the
pastry out of the oven, brush it over with the white of an egg, sift
over pounded sugar, and put it back in the oven to colour. When
cold, cut it into strips ; pile these on a dish pyramidically, and serve.
These strips, cut about 2 inches long, piled in circular rows, and a
plateful of flavoured whipped cream poured in the middle, make a
very pretty dish.

Time. — 20 minutes to J hour. Average cost, with J lb. of paste, Is.

Sufficient. — J lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of sandwiches.

Seasonable at any time.

PETITES BOUCHEES.

1319. Ingredients. — 6 oz. of sweet almonds, £ lb. of sifted sugar,
the rind of I lemon, the white of 1 egg, puff-paste.

Mode. — Blanch the almonds, and chop them fine ; rub the sugar on
the lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar ; mix this with the almonds
and the white of the egg. Roll some puff-paste out ; cut it in any shape
that may be preferred, such as diamonds, rings, ovals, &c., and spread
the above mixture over the paste. Bake the bouchees in an oven, not
too hot, and serve cold.

Time. — l hour, or rather more. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 4 lb. of puff-paste. Seasonable at any time.

POLISH TABTLETS.

1320. Ingredients.— Puff-paste, the white of an egg, pounded
sugar.

Mode. — Roll some good puff-paste out thin, and cut it into 21-inch
squares ; brash each square over with the white of an egg, then fold
down the corners, so that they all meet in the middle of each piece'of

TUDDINGS AND PASTBY.

GG3

paste ; slightly press the two pieces together, brush them over with
the egg, sift over sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for about i hour.
When they are done, make a little hole in the middle of the paste,
and fill it up with apricot jam, marmalade, or red-currant jelly.
Pile them high in the centre of a dish, on a napkin, and garnish
with the same preserve the tartlets are filled with.

Time —\ hour or 20 minutes.

Average cost, with \ lb. of puff-paste, Is.

Sufficient for 2 dishes of pastry. Seasonable at any time.

Note.— It should be borne in mind, that, for all dishes of small pastry, such,
as the preceding, trimmings of puif-paste, left from larger tarts, answer as
well as making the paste expressly.

PUTTS d’AMOUB, or PUFF-PASTE RINGS.

1321. Ingredients. — Puff-paste No. 1205, the white of an egg,
sifted loaf sugar.

Mode. — Make some good puff-paste by recipe No. 1205 ; roll it out
to the thickness of about 5 inch, and, with a round fluted paste-
cutter, stamp out as many pieces as may be required ; then work the
paste up again, and roll it out to the same thickness, and with a smaller
cutter, stamp out sufficient pieces to correspond with the larger ones.
Again stamp out the centre of these smaller rings ; brush over the
others with the white of an egg, place a small ring on the top of every
large circular piece of paste, egg over the tops, and bake from 15 to
20 minutes. Sift over sugar, put them back in the oven to colour
them ; then fill -the rings with preserve of any bright colour. Dish
them high on a napkin, and serve. So many pretty dishes of pastry
may be made by stamping puff-paste out with fancy cutters, and
filling the pieces, when baked, with jelly or preserve, that our space
will not allow us to give a separate recipe for each of them ; but,
as they are all made from one paste, and only the shape and garnish-
ing varied, perhaps it is not necessary, and by exercising a little
ingenuity, variety may always be obtained. Half-moons, leaves,
diamonds, stars, shamrocks, rings, &c., are the most appropriate
shapes for fancy pastry.

Time. — 15 to 25 minutes. Average cost, with i lb. of paste, Is.

Sufficient for 2 dishes of pastry. Seasonable at any time.

PARADISE PUDDING.

l322- Ingredients. — 3 eggs, 3 apples, £ lb. of bread crumbs, 3 oz.
°f Kgar, 3 oz. of currants, salt and grated nutmeg to taste, the rind
01 2 l^ion, £ wineglassful of brandy.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

0G4

Mode. — Pare, core, and mince the apples into small pieces, and mix
them with the other dry ingredients ; beat up the eggs, moisten the
mixture with these, and beat it well ; stir in the brandy, and put
the pudding into a buttered mould ; tie it down with a cloth, boil
for If hour, and serve with sweet sauce.

Time.—li hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

PEASE PUDDING.

1323. Ingredients. — H pint of split peas, 2 oz. of butter, 2 eggs,
pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Put the peas to soak over-night, in rain-water, and float
off any that are wormeaten or discoloured. X^e them loosely in a
clean cloth, leaving a little room for them to swell, and put them on
to boil in cold rain-water, allowing 2| hours after the water has
simmered up. When the peas are tender, take' them up and drain ;
rub them through a colander with a wooden spoon ; add the butter,
eggs, pepper, and salt ; beat all well together for a few minutes, until
the ingredients are well incorporated ; then tie them tightly in a
floured cloth ; boil the pudding for another hour, turn it on to the
dish, and serve very hot. This pudding should always be sent to
table with boiled leg of pork, and is an exceedingly nice accompani-
ment to boiled beef.

Time. — 2h hours to boil the peas, tied loosely in the cloth ; 1 hour
for the pudding.

Average cost, G d.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from September to March.

BAKED PLUM-PUDDING.

1324. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, l lb. of currants, 1 lb. of
raisins, 1 lb. of suet, 2 eggs, 1 pint of milk, a few slices of candied
peel.

Mode— Chop the suet finely ; mix with it the flour, currants,
stoned raisins, and candied peel ; moisten with the well-beaten eggs,
and add sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency ot
very thick batter. Put it into a buttered dish, and bake in a good y
oven from 2j to hours ; turn it out, strew sifted sugar over, am’

serve. For a very plain pudding, use only half the quantity °*
fruit, omit the eggs, and substitute milk or water for them. The/?0™
ingredients make a large famiW pudding ; for a small one, ',l ^ K

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

CG5

quantity would be found ample; but it must be baked quite 12

hour.

Time.— Large pudding, to 2J hours ; half

the size, I5 hour.

Average cost, 2s. 6 d.

Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons.

Seasonable in winter.

Eaisin-Grai>e.— All the kinds of raisins have much the
same virtues ; they are nutritive and balsamic, but they are
very subject to fermentation with juices of any kind; and
hence, when eaten immoderately, they often bring on colics.
There are many varieties of grape used for raisins ; the fruit
of Valencia is that mostly dried for culinary purposes, whilst
most of the table kinds are grown in Malaga, and called Mus-
catels. The finest of all table raisins come from Provence or
Italy ; the most esteemed of all are those of Roquevaire ; they
are very large and very sweet. This»sort is rarely eaten by
any but the most wealthy. The dried Malaga, or Muscatel
raisins, which come to this country packed in small boxes,
and nicely preserved in bunches, are variable in their quality,
but mostly of a rich flavour, when new, juicy, and of a deep
purple hue.

RAISIN'* GEAPE..

AN EXCELLENT PLUM-PUDDING, made without Eggs.

1325. Ingredients. — i lb. of flour, 6 oz. of raisins, 6 oz. of cur-
rants, f lb. of chopped suet, f lb. of brown sugar, f lb. of mashed
carrot, \ lb. of mashed potatoes, 1 tablespoonful of treacle, 1 oz. of
candied lemon-peel, 1 oz. of candied citron.

Mode. — Mix the flour, currants, suet, and sugar well together ;
have ready the above proportions of mashed carrot and potato, which
stir into the other ingredients ; add the treacle and lemon-peel ; but
put no liquid in the mixture, or it will be spoiled. Tie it loosely
in a cloth, or, if put in a basin, do not quite fill it, as the pudding
should have room to swell, and boil it for 4 hours. Serve with
brandy-sauce. This pudding is better for being mixed over-night.

Time. — 4 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in winter.

AN UNRIVALLED PLUM-PUDDING.

1326. Ingredients.— 1 i lb. of muscatel raisins, if lb. of currants,
1 lb. of sultana raisins, 2 lbs. of the finest moist sugar, 2 lbs. of bread
crumbs, 16 eggs, 2 l'os. of finely-chopped suet, 6 oz. of mixed candied
peel, the rind of 2 lemons, 1 oz. of ground nutmeg, 1 oz. of ground
cinnamon, k oz. of pounded bitter almonds, f pint of brandy.

Mode. — Stone and cut up the raisins, but do not chop them ; wash
and dry the currants, and cut the candied peel into thin slices. Mix
all the dry ingredients well together, and moisten with the eggs,

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

GGG

which should ho well beaten and strained, to the pudding ; tir in the
brandy, and, when all is thoroughly mixed, well butter and flour a
stout new pudding-cloth ; put in the pudding, tie it down very tightly
and closely, boil from G to 8 hours, and serve with brandy-sauce. A
few sweet almonds, blanched and cut in strips, and stuck on the pud-
ding, ornament it prettily. This quantity may be divided and boiled
in buttered moulds. For small families this is the most desirable way,
as the above will be found to make a pudding of rather large dimensions.

Time.— 6 to 8 hours. Average cost , 7s. 6 d.

Seasonable in winter. Sufficient for 12 or 14 persons.

Note. — The muscatel raisins can be purchased at a cheap rate loose (not in
bunches) : they are then scarcely higher in price than the ordinary raisins,
and impart a much richer flavour to the pudding.

Sultana Grape. — "We hare elsewhere stated that the small j
black grape grown in Corinth and the Ionian Isles is, when
dried, the common currant of the grocers’ shops ; the white or
yellow grape, grown in the same places, is somewhat larger I
than the black variety, and is that which produces the Sultana
raisin. It has been called Sultana from its delicate qualities
and unique growth : the finest are those of Smyrna. They have
not sufficient flavour and sugary properties to serve alone for
puddings and cakes, but they are peculiarly valuable for miring,
that is to say, for introducing in company with the richer sorts
of Valencias or Muscatels. In .white puddings, or cakes/too,
where the whiteness must be preserved, the Sultana raisin
should be used. But the greatest value of this fruit in the
cuisine is that of its saving labour; for it has no stones. Half
Muscatels and half Sultanas are an admirable mixture for
general purposes.

A PLAIN CHRISTMAS PUDDING FOR CHILDREN.

1327. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 1 lb. of bread crumbs, f lb. of
stoned raisins, % lb. of currants, % lb. of suet, 3 or 4 eggs, milk, 2 oz. of
candied peel, 1 teaspoonful of powdered allspice, £ saltspoonful of salt.

Mode. — Let the suet be finely chopped, the raisins stoned, and the
currants well washed, picked, and dried. Mix these with the other
dry ingredients, and stir all well together; beat and strain the eggs
to the pudding, stir these in, and add just sufficient milk to make it
mix properly. Tie it up in a well-floured cloth, put it into boiling water,
and boil for at least 5 hours. Serve with a sprig of holly placed in the
middle of the pudding, and a little pounded sugar sprinkled over it.

Time. — 5 hours. Average cost, Is. 9 d.

Sufficient for 9 or 1 0 children. Seasonable at Christmas.

MODERN MODE OF SERVING DISHES.

N 1. Raised Pie. 0 1 . Vol-au-Vent.
ft 1. Apples in Custard.

P 1. Christmas Plum Pudding in Mould.
R 1. Charlottes aux Pommes.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

C67

Raisins. — Raisins arc grapes, prepared by suffering them to remain on tbe vine until
they are perfectly ripe, and then drying them in the sun or by the heat ot an oven.
The sun-dried grapes are sweet, the oven-dried of an acid flavour. The common nay
of drying grapes for raisins is to tie two or three bunches of them together, whilst yet
on the vine, and dip them into a hot lixivium of wood-ashes mixed with a little ol the ml
of olives : this disposes them to shrink and wrinkle, after which they are left on the vine
three or four days, separated, on sticks in a horizontal situation, and then dined in the
sun at leisure, after being cut from the tree.

CHRISTMAS PIiTJM-P ITDDII'T G-.

(Very Good.)

1328. Ingredients —l| lb. of raisins, l lb. of currants, i lb. of
mixed peel, f lb. of bread crumbs, f lb. of suet, 8 egg's, 1 wineglassful
of brandy.

Mode. — Stone and cut tbe raisins in halves, but do not chop them ;
wash, pick, and dry tbe currants, and mince the suet finely ; cut the
candied peel into thin slices, and grate down tbe bread into fine crumbs.
"When all these dry ingredients are
prepared, mix them well together;
then moisten the mixture with the
eggs, which should be well beaten,
and the brandy ; stir well, that every-
thingmaybe very thoroughly blended,
and press the pudding into a buttered
mould; tie it down tightly with a
floured cloth, and boil for 5 or 6 hours.

cnKisniAS plum -pudding in norm

It may be boiled m a cloth without a

mould, and will require the same time allowed for cooking. As
Christmas puddings are usually made a few days before they are
required for table, when the pudding is taken out of the pot, hang i t
up immediately, and put a plate or saucer underneath to catch the
wafer that may drain from it. The day it is to be eaten, plunge it
into boiling water, and keep it boiling for at least 2 hours ; then turn
it out of the mould, and serve with brandy-sauce. On Christmas- day
a sprig of holly is usually placed in the middle of the pudding, and
about a wineglassful of brandy poured round it, which, at the moment
of serving, is lighted, and the pudding thus brought to table encircled
in flame.

Time: — 5 or 6 hours the first time of boiling ; 2 hours the day it is
to be served.

Average cost, 4 s.

Sufficient for a quart mould for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable on the 25th of December, and on various festive occasions
till March.

Note. — Five or six of theso puddings should be made at one time, as they

GG8

MODERN liOOSEUOLD COOKERY.*

will keep good for many weeks, and in cases whore unexpected guests arrive,
will bo found an acceptable, and, as it only requires warming through, a
quickly-prepared dish. Moulds of every shape and size are manufactured for
these puddings, and may be purchased of Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand.

Brandt is the alcoholic or spirituous portion of wine, separated from the aqueous
part, the colouring matter, &c., by distillation. The word is of German origin, and in its
German form, hrantwein, signifies burnt wine, or wine that has undergone the action of
fire; brandies, so called, however, have been made from potatoes, carrots, beetroot,
pears, and other vegetable substances ; but they are all inferior to true brandy. Brandy
is prepared in most wine countries, but that of France is the most esteemed. It is
procured not only by distilling the wine itself, but also by fermenting and distilling the
marc, or residue of the pressings of the grape. It is procured indifferently from red or
white wine, and different wines yield very different proportions of it, the strongest, of
course, giving the largest quantity. Brandy obtained from marc has a more acrid
taste than that from wine. The celebrated brandy of Cognac, a town in the depart-
ment of Charente, and that brought from Andraye, seem to owe their excellence from
being made from white wine. Like other spirit, brandy is colourless when recently
distilled; by mere keeping, however, owing, probably, to some change in the soluble
matter contained in it, it acquires a slight colour, which is much increased by keeping
in casks, and is made of the required intensity by the addition of burnt sugar or other
colouring matter. What is called British brandy is not, in fact, brandy, which is the
name, as we have said, of a spirit distilled from wine ; but is a spirit made chiefly from
malt spirit, with the addition of mineral acids and various flavouring ingredients, the
exact composition being kept secret. It is distilled somewhat extensively in this country ;
real brandy scarcely at all. The brandies imported into England are chiefly from
Bordeaux, Rochelle, and Cognac.

A POUND PLUM-PUDDING.

1329. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of suet, 1 lb. of currants, 1 lb. of stoned
raisins, 8 eggs, J grated nutmeg, 2 oz. of sliced candied peel, 1 tea-
spoonful of ground ginger, h lb. of bread crumbs, 5 lb. of flour, i pint
of milk.

Mode— Chop the suet finely ; mix with it the dry ingredients ; stir

these well together, and add the well-
beaten eggs and milk to moisten with.
Beat up the mixture well, and should
the above proportion of milk not be
found sufficient to make it of the proper
consistency, a little more should be
added. Press the pudding into a mould,
tie it in a floured cloth, and boil for
5 hours, or rather longer, and serve
with brandy-sauce.

Tune. — 5 hours, or longer. Average cost, 3s.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.

Note. — The above pudding may be baked instead of boiled ; it should bo
put into a buttered mould or tin, and baked for about 2 liouis , a smallei one
would take about l.j hour.

Citron.— The fruitof the citron- tree (Citrus medica) is acidulous, antiseptic, and anti-
scorbutic : it excites the appetite, and stops vomiting, and, like lemon-juice, has been
greatly extolled in chronic rheumatism, gout, and scurvy. Mixed with cordials, it is

BARED PUDDING- OR CARE-MOULD.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

G69

used as an antidote to the machineel poison. The candied peel is prepared in the same
manner as orange or lemon-peel; that is to say, the peel is boiled in water until cpiite
soft, and then suspended in concentrated syrup (in the cold), after which it is either
dried in a current of warm air, or in a stove, at a heat not exceeding 120° Fahrenheit.
The syrup must be kept fully saturated with sugar by reboiling it once or twice during
the process, It may be dusted with powdered lump sugar, if necessary. The citron is
supposed to be the Median, Assyrian, or Persian apple of the Greeks. It is described
by Risso as having a majestic appearance, its shining leaves and rosy flowers being
succeeded by fruit whose beauty and size astonish the observer, whilst their odour
gratifies his senses. In China there is an enormous variety, but the citron is cultivated in
all orange-growing countries.

PLUM-PUDDING OP FRESH FRUIT.

1330. Ingredients. — fib. of suet crust No. 1215, 1| pint of Orleans
or any other kind of plum, f lb. of moist sugar.

Mode. — Line a pudding-basin with suet crust rolled out to the
thickness of about i inch ; fill the basin with the fruit, put in the
sugar, and cover with crust. Fold the edges over, and pinch them
together, to prevent the juice escaping. Tie over a floured cloth, put
the pudding into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2a hours. Turn it
out of the basin, and serve quickly.

Time. — 2 to 2i hours.

Average cost, \0d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

Seasonable, with various kinds of plums, from
the beginning of August to the beginning of
October.

Plums. — Almost all the varieties of the cultivated plum are
agreeable and refreshing: it is not a nourishing fruit, and if
indulged in to excess, when unripe, is almost certain to cause
diarrhoea and cholera. Weak and delicate persons had better
abstain from plums altogether. The modes of preparing plums
are as numerous as the varieties of the fruit. The objections
raised against raw plums do not apply to the cooked fruit,
which even the invalid may eat in moderation.

plum.

PLUM TAUT.

1331. Ingredients.— 5 lb. of good short crust No. 1211, l£ pint of
plums, f lb. of moist sugar.

Mode. — Line the edges of a deep tart-dish with crust made by recipe
Ao. 1211 ; fill the dish with plums, and place a small cup or jar, upside
down, in the midst of them. Put in the
sugar, cover the pie with crust, ornament
the edges, and bake in a good oven from
i to f hour. When puff-crust is pre-
ferred to short crust, use that made by PLCM TABT'

recipe No. 1206, and glaze the top by brushing it over with the white

G70

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOXEEY.

of an egg beaten to a stiff froth with a knife ; sprinkle over a little
sifted sugar, and put the pie in the oven to set the glaze.

Time. — 5 to $ hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 5 or G persons.

Seasonable, with various kinds of plums, from the beginning of
August to the beginning of October.

POTATO PASTY.

, >332- Ingredients. — 1 Jib. of rump-steak or mutton cutlets, pepper
and salt to taste, 5 pint of weak broth or gravy, 1 oz. of butter, mashed
potatoes.

Mode— riace the meat, cut in small pieces, at the bottom of the
pan ; season it with pepper and salt, and add the gravy and butter

broken into small pieces. Put on the
perforated plate, with its valve -pipe
screwed on, and fill up the whole space
to the top of the tube with nicely-
mashed potatoes mixed with a little
milk, and finish the surface of them in
any ornamental manner. If carefully
baked, the potatoes will be covered
with a delicate brown crust, retaining
all the savoury steam rising from the meat. Send it to table as it
comes from the oven, with a napkin folded round it.

Time. — 40 to 60 minutes. Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

POTATO PUDDING.

1333. Ingredients.— | lb. of mashed potatoes, 2 oz. of butter,
2 eggs, \ pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry, j saltspoonful of
salt, the j nice and rind of 1 small lemon, 2 oz. of sugar.

Mode. — Boil sufficient potatoes to make lb. when mashed; add to
these the butter, eggs, milk, sherry, lemon-juice, and sugar; mince
the lemon-peel very finely, and beat all the ingredients well together.
Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for rather more
than l hour. To enrich it, add a few pounded almonds, and increase
the quantity of eggs and butter.

Time.— I hour, or rather longer. Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

TO ICE OB GLAZE PASTBY.

1334. To glaze pastry, which is the usual method adopted for meat
or raised pies, break an egg, separate the yolk from the white, and

rUDDIXGS AND PASTRY.

671

beat the former for a short time. Then, when the pastry is nearly
baked, take it out of the oven, brush it over with this beaten yolk of
egg, and put it back in the oven to set the glaze.

1335. To ice pastry, which is the usual method adopted for fruit
tarts and sweet dishes of pastry, put the white of an egg on a plate,
and with the blade of a knife beat it to a stiff froth. When the pastry
is nearly baked, brush it oVer with this, and sift over some pounded
sugar ; put it hack into the oven to set the glaze, and, in a few
minutes, it will be done. Great care should be taken that the paste
does not catch or burn in the oven, which it is very liable to do after
the icing is laid on.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 egg and lh oz. of sugar to glaze 3 tarts.

Sttgak has been happily called “ the honey of reeds.” The sugar-cane appears to he ori-

f In ally a native of the East Indies. The Chinese
aveeultivateditfor2,000year8. The Egyptians,

Phoenicians, and Jews knew nothing about it.

The Greek physicians are the first who speak of
it. It was not till the year 1471 that a Venetian
discovered the method of purifying brown sugar
and making loaf sugar. He gained an immense
fortune by this discovery. Our supplies are now
obtained from Barbadoes, Jamaica, Mauritius,

Ceylon, the East and West Indies generally, and
the United States ; but the largest supplies come
from Cuba. Sugar is divided into the following
classes : — Helmed sugar, white clayed, brown
clayed, brown raw, and molasses. The sugar-
cane grows to the height of six, twelve, or even
sometimes twenty feet. It is propagated from
cuttings, requires much hoeing and weeding,
giving employment to thousands upon thousands
of slaves in the slave countries, and attains
maturity in twelve or thirteen months. When
ripe, it is cut down close to the stole, the stems
are divided into lengths of about, three feet,
which are made up into bundles, and carried to
the mill, to be crushed between rollers. In the
process of crushing, the juice runs down into a
reservoir, from which, after a while, it is drawn
through a siphou; that is to say, the clear fluid sugae-canes.

is taken from the scum. This fluid undergoes

several processes of drying and refining; the methods varying in different manufactories.
There are some large establishments engaged in sugar-refining in the neighbourhoods of
Blackwall and Bethnal Green, London. The process is mostly in the hands of German
workmen. Sugar is adulterated with fine sand and sawdust. Pore sugar is highly
nutritious, adding to the fatty tissue of the body ; but it is not easy of digestion.

BAKED KAISIIxT PUDDING.

(Plain and Economical.)

1336. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, % lb. of stoned raisins, 1 lb. of
suet, a pinch of salt, 1 oz. of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, milk.

Mode. — Chop the suet finely; stone the raisins and cut them in
halves ; mix these with the suet, add the salt, sugar, and grated nutmeg,
and moisten the whole with sufficient milk to make it of the oon-

G72

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

sistency of thick hatter. Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish,
and bake for l£ hour, or rather longer. Turn it out of the dish, strew
sifted sugar over, and serve. This is a very plain recipe, and suitable
where there is a family of children. It, of course, can be much im-
proved by the addition of candied peel, currants, and rather a larger
proportion of suet : a few eggs would also make the pudding richer.

Time. — 1| hour. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.

Introduction or Sugar. — Sugar was first known as a drug, and used by the apothe-
caries, and with them was a most important article. At its first appearance, some said
it was heating; others, that it injured the chest; others, that it disposed persons to
apoplexy; the truth, however, soon conquered these fancies, and the use of sugar has
increased every day, and there is no household in the civilized world which can do
without it.

BOILED RAISm PUDDING.

( Plain and Economical.)

1337. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, £ lb. of stoned raisins, \ lb. of
chopped suet, f saltspoonful of salt, milk.

Mode. — After having stoned the raisins and chopped the suet finely,
mix them with the flour, add the salt, and when these dry ingredients
are thoroughly mixed, moisten the pudding with sufficient milk to
make it into rather a stiff paste. Tie it up in a floured cloth, put it
into boiling water, and boil for 4 hours : serve with sifted sugar. This
pudding may, also, be made in a long shape, the same as a rolled jam-
pudding, and will then not require so long boiling 2\ hours would
then be quite sufficient.

Time. — Made round, 4 hours : in a long shape, 21 hours.

Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable in winter.

BOILED RHUBARB PUDDING.

1338. Ingredients.— 4 or 5 sticks of fine rhubarb, 5 lb. of moist
sugar, § lb. of suet-crust No. 1215.

Mode. — Make a suet-crust with f lb. of flour, by recipe No. 1215, and
line a buttered basin with it. Wash and wipe the rhubarb, and, if old,
string it — that is to say, pare off the outside skin. Cut it into inch
lengths, fill the basin with it, put in the sugar, and cover with crust.
Pinch the edges of the pudding together, tic over it a floured cloth,
put it into boiling water, and boil from 2 to 2h hours. Turn it out of
the basin, and serve with a jug of cream and sifted sugar.

Time.— 2 to 2j hours. Average cost, 7d.

Sufficient for G or 7 persons. Seasonable in spring.

PUDDINGS AND PAST11Y.

673

RHUBARB TART.

1339. Ingredients. — 5 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, about 5 sticks of
large rhubarb, j lb. of moist sugar.

Mode. — Make a puff-crust by recipe No. 1206 ; line the edges of a
deep pie-dish with it, and wash, wipe, and cut the rhubarb into pieces
about 1 inch long. Should it be old and tough, string it, that is to
say, pare off the outside skin. Pile the fruit high in the dish, as it
shrinks very much in the cooking ; putin the sugar, cover with crust,
ornament the edges, and bake the tart in a well-heated oven from \ to
J hour. If wanted very nice, brush it over with the white of an egg
beaten to a stiff froth, then sprinkle on it some sifted sugar, and put it
in the oven just to set the glaze : this should be done when the tart is
nearly baked. A small quantity of lemon-juice, and a little of the
peel minced, are by many persons considered an improvement to the
flavour of rhubarb tart.

Time. — -J to f hour. Average cost, 9d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in spring.

Earns abb. — This is one of the most useful of all garden
productions that are put into pies and puddings. It
was comparatively little known till within the last twenty
or thirty years, but it is now cultivated in almost every
British garden. The part used is the footstalks of the leaves,
which, peeled and cut into small pieces, are put into tarts,
either mixed with apples or alone. When quite young, they
are much better not peeled. Rhubarb comes in season when
apples are going out. The common rhubarb is a native of
Asia ; the scarlet variety has the finest flavour. Turkey rhu-
barb, the well-known medicinal drug, is the root of a very
elegant plant ( Bheum palmatum) , coming to greatest perfection
in Tartary. For culinary purposes, all kinds of rhubarb are
the better for being blanched.

BHtTBABB.

RAISED PIE OF POULTRY OR GAME.

134°. Ingredients.— To every lb. of flour allow i lb. of butter,
i pint of water, the yolks of 2 eggs, ^ teaspoonful of salt (these are
for the crust) ; 1 large fowl or pheasant, a few slices of veal cutlet,
a few slices of dressed ham, forcemeat, seasoning of nutmeg, allspiee,
pepper and salt, gravy.

Mode. — Make a stiff short crust with the above proportion of
butter, flour, water, and eggs, and work it up very smoothly ; butter
a raised-pie mould, as shown in No. 1190, and line it with the paste.
Previously to making the crust, bone the fowl, or whatever bird is
intended to be used, lay it, breast downwards, upon a cloth, and
season the inside well with pounded mace, allspice, pepper, and
salt ; then spread over it a layer of forcemeat, then a layer of seasoned

2 x

674

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

veal, and then one of ham, and then another layer of forcemeat, and
roll the fowl over, making the skin meet at the back. Line the pie
with forcemeat, put in the fowl, and fill up the cavities with slices of
seasoned veal and ham and forcemeat ; wet the edges of the pie, put
on the cover, pinch the edges together with the paste-pincers, and

decorate it with leaves ; brush it over
with beaten yolk of egg, and bake in
a moderate oven for 4 hours. In the
mean time, make a good strong gravy
from the bones, pour it through a fun-
nel into the hole at the top ; cover this
hole with a small leaf, and the pie,
when cold, will be ready for use. Let
it be remembered that the gravy must be considerably reduced
before it is poured into the pie? as, when cold, it should form a firm
jelly, and not be the least degree in a liquid state. This recipe is
suitable for all kinds of poultry or game, using one or more birds,
according to the size of the pie intended to be made ; but the birds
must always be boned. Truffles, mushrooms, &o., added to this pie,
make it much nicer; and, to enrich it, lard the fleshy parts of the
poultry or game with thin strips of bacon. This method of forming
raised pies in a mould is generally called a timbale, and has the
advantage of being more easily made than one where the paste is
raised by the hands ; the crust, besides, being eatable. (See coloured
plate N 1.)'

Time. — Large pie, 4 hours. Average cost, 6s. 6 d.

Seasonable, with poultry, all the year ; with game, from September
to March.

RAISED PIE OP VEAL AND HAM.

i 341 . Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lbs. of veal cutlets, a few slices of bacon
or ham, seasoning of pepper, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, forcemeat
No. 416, 2 lbs. of hot- water paste No. 1217, i pint of good strong gravy.

Mode.— To raise the crust for a pie with the hands is a very dif-
ficult task, and can only be accomplished by skilled and experienced
cooks. The process should be seen to be satisfactorily learnt, and
plenty of practice given to the making of raised pies, as by that
means only will success be insured. Make a hot-water paste by
recipe No. 1217, and from the mass raise the pie with the hands; if
this cannot be accomplished, cut out pieces for the top and bottom,
and a long piece for the sides ; fasten the bottom and side-piece
together by means of egg, and pinch the edges well together ; then
line the pie with forcemeat made by recipe No. 415, put in a layer of

BAISED PIE.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

675

veal, and a plentiful seasoning of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and allspice,
as, let it be remembered, these pies taste very insipid unless highly-
seasoned. Over the seasoning place a layer of sliced bacon or cooked
ham, and then a layer of forcemeat, veal seasoning, and bacon,
and so on until the meat rises to about an inch above the paste ;
taking care to finish with a layer of forcemeat, to fill all the
cavities of the pie, and to lay in the meat firmly and compactly.
Brush the top edge of the pie with beaten egg, put on the cover, press
the edges, and pinch them round with paste-pincers. Make a hole in
the middle of the lid, and ornament the pie with leaves, which should
be stuck on with the white of an egg ; then brush it all over with the
beaten yolk of an egg, and hake the pie in an oven with a soaking
heat from 3 to 4 hours. To ascertain when it is done, run a sharp-
pointed knife or skewer through the hole at the top into the middle of
the pie, and if the meat feels tender, it is sufficiently baked. Have
ready about 4 pint of very strong gravy, pour it through a funnel
into the hole at the top, stop up the hole with a small leaf of baked
paste, and put the pie away until wanted for use. Should it acquire
too much colour in the baking, cover it with white paper, as the
crust should not in the least degree be burnt. Mushrooms, truffles,
and many other ingredients, may be added to enrich the flavour of
these pies, and the very fleshy parts of the meat may be larded. These
pies are more frequently served cold than hot, and form excellent
dishes for cold suppers or breakfasts. The cover of the pie is some-
times carefully removed, leaving the perfect edges, and the top deco-
rated with square pieces of very bright aspic jelly : this has an
exceedingly pretty effect.

Time. — About 4 hours. Average cost, 6s. Gel.

Sufficient for a very large pie. Seasonable from March to October.

BAKED BICE PUDDING.

i342- Ingredients. — 1 small teacupful of rice, 4 eggs, 1 pint of
milk, 2 oz. of fresh butter, 2 oz. of beef marrow, \ lb. of currants,
2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, nutmeg, ^ lb. of sugar, the rind of A lemon.

Mode.— Put the lemon-rind and milk into a stewpan, and let it
infuse till the milk is well flavoured with the lemon ; in the mean
time, boil the rice until tender in water, with a very small quantity
of salt, and, when done, let it be thoroughly drained. Beat the eggs,
stir to them the milk, which should be strained, the butter, marrow,
currants, and remaining ingredients ; add the rice, and mix all well
together. Line the edges of the dish with puff-paste, put in the pud-

2x2

C76

MODERN nOCdEnOLD COOKERY.

ding, and bake for about hour in a slow oven. Slices of candied-peel
may be added at pleasure, or Sultana raisins may be substituted for
the currants.

Time. — % hour. Average cost, Is. 3 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Suitable for a winter pudding, when fresh fruits are
not obtainable.

Rice, with proper management in cooking it, forms a very valuable and cheap addition
to our farinaceous food, aud, in years of scarcity, ha9 been found eminently useful in
lessening the consumption of flour. When boiled, it should be so managed that the
grains, though soft, should be as little broken and as dry as possible. The water in which
it is dressed Bhould only simmer, and not boil hard. Arery little water should be used, as
the grains absorb a great deal, and, consequently, swell much ; and if tbev take up too
much at first, it is difficult to get rid of it. Baking it in puddings is the Lest mode of
preparing it.

II.

{Plain and Economical ; a nice Pudding for Children.)

1343. Ingredients. — 1 teacupful of rice, 2 tablespoonfuls of moist-
sugar, 1 quart of milk, i oz. of butter or 2 small tablespoonfuls of
chopped suet, i teaspoonful of grated nutmeg.

Mode. — Wash the rice, put it into a pie-dish with the sugar, pour
in the milk, and stir those ingredients well together ; then add the
butter cut up into very small pieces, or, instead of this, the above pro-
portion of finely-minced suet ; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and
bake the pudding, in a moderate oven, from li to 2 hours. As the rice
is not previously cooked, care must be taken that the pudding be very
slowly baked, to give plenty of time for the rice to swell, and for it
to be very thoroughly done.

Time. — 1| to 2 hours. Average cost, 7d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 children. Seasonable at any time.

PLAIBT BOILED BICE PUDDING.

1344. Ingredients.— i lb. of rice.

Mode. — Wash the rice, tie it in a pudding-cloth, allowing room for
the rice to swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water ; boil it
gently for 2 hours, and if, after a time, the cloth seems tied too loosely,
take the rice up and tighten the cloth. Serve with sweet melted
butter, or cold butter and sugar, or stewed fruit, jam, or marmalade ;
any of which accompaniments are suitable for plain boiled rice.

Time. — 2 hours after the water boils. Average cost, 2d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BOILED BICE PUDDING.

1345. Ingredients. — \ lb. of rice, ll pint of new milk, 2 oz. of

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

677

butter, 4 eggs, A saltspoonful of salt, 4 large tablespoonfuls of moist
sugar, flavouring to taste.

Mode. — Stew the rice very gently in the above proportion of new
milk, and, when it is tender, pour it into a basin ; stir in the butter,
and let it stand to cool ; then beat the eggs, add these to the rice
with the sugar, salt, and any flavouring that may be approved, such
as nutmeg, powdered cinnamon, grated lemon-peel, essence of bitter
almonds, or vanilla. When all is well stirred, put the pudding into a
buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into boiling water,
and boil for lj bom’.

Time. — lj hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for a or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Varieties of Rice. — Of the varieties of rice brought to our market, that from Bengal
is chiefly of the species denominated cargo rice, and is of a coarse reddish-brown cast,
but peculiarly sweet and large-grained ; it does not readily separate from the husk, but
it is preferred by the natives to all the others. Patna rice is more esteemed in Europe,
and is of very superior quality; it is small-grained, rather long and wiry, and is remark-
ably white. The Carolina rice is considered as the best, and is likewise the dearest in
London.

( With Dried or Fresh Fruit ; a nice dish for the Nursery.)

1346. Ingredients. — A lb. of rice, 1 pint of any kind of fresh fruit
that may be preferred, or | lb. of raisins or currants.

Mode. — Wash the rice, tie it in a cloth, allowing room for it to
swell, and put it into a saucepan of cold water ; let it boil for an hour,
then take it up, untie the cloth, stir in the fruit, and tie it up again
tolerably tight, and put it into the water for the remainder of the
time. Boil for another hour, or rather longer, and serve with sweet,
sauce, if made with dried fruit, and with plain sifted sugar and a
little cream or milk, if made with fresh fruit.

Time. — 1 hour to boil the rice without the fruit ; 1 hour, or longer,
afterwards.

Average cost, 6 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 children. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — This pudding is very good made with apples : they should be pared,
cored, and cut into thin shoes.

BOILED BICE FOE CUBBIES, &c.

1347. Ingredients.— $ lb. of rice, water, salt.

Mode. — Pick, wash, and soak the rice in plenty of cold water ; then
have ready a saucepan of boiling water, drop the rice into it, and
keep it boiling quickly, with the lid uncovered, until it is tender,
but not soft. Take it up, drain it, and put it on a dish before the
lire to dry : do not handle it much with a spoon, but shake it about a

678

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERT.

little with two forks, that, it may all be equally dried, and strew over
a little salt. It is now ready to serve, and may be heaped lightly ou
a dish by itself, or be laid round the dish as a border, with a curry
or fricassee in the centre. Some cooks smooth the rice with the back
of a spoon, and then brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and set
it in the oven to colour ; but the rice well boiled, white, dry, and
with every grain distinct, is by far the more preferable mode of dressing
it. During the process of boiling, the rice should be attentively
watched, that it be not overdone, as, if this is the case, it will have a
mashed and soft appearance. »

Time. — 15 to 25 minutes, according to the quality of the rice.

Average cost, 3 d.

Sufficient for a large dish of curry. Seasonable at any time.

Rice, in the native rough state, with the husk on, is celled paddy, both in India and
America, and it will keep better, and lor a much longer time, in this state, than after
the husk has been removed ; besides which, prepared rice is apt to become dirty from
rubbing about in the voyage ou board ship, and in the warehouses. It is sometimes
brought to England in the shape of paddy, and the husk detached here. Paddy pays
less duty than shelled rice.

TO BOIL BICE FOB CUBBIES, &c.

( Soger’s Recipe.)

1348. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of the best Carolina rice, 2 quarts of
water, li oz. of butter, a little salt.

Mode. — Wash the rice well in two waters ; make 2 quarts of water
boiling, and throw the rice into it ; boil it until three- parts done, then
drain it on a sieve. Butter the bottom and sides of a stewpan, put in
the rice, place the lid on tightly, and set it by the side of the tire
until the rice is perfectly tender, occasionally shaking the pan to pre-
vent its sticking., Prepared thus, every grain should be separate and
white. Either dish it separately, or place it round the curry as a
border.

Time. — 15 to 25 minutes. Average cost, Id.

Sufficient for 2 moderate-sized curries. Seasonablb at any time.

EUTTEE.ED BICE.

1349. Ingredients. — \ lb. of rice, if pint of milk, 2 oz. of butter,
sugar to taste, grated nutmeg or pounded cinnamon.

Mode. — Wash and pick the rice, drain and put it into a saucepan
with the milk ; let it swell gradually, and, when tender, pour off the
milk ; stir in the butter, sugar, and nutmeg or cinnamon, and, when
the butter is thoroughly melted, and the whole is quite hot, serve.
After the milk is poured off', be particular that the rice does not burn :
to prevent this, do not cease stirring it.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

679

Time.— About f hour to swell the rice. Average cost, 7 cl.

Sufficient for 4 or o persons. Seasonable at any time.

Rick wns held in great esteem by the ancients : they considered it as a very beneficial
food for the chest; therefore it was recommended in cases oi consumption, and to persons
subject to spitting of blopd.

CASSEKOLE OK BICE.

SAVOURY CASSEROLE OE RICE,

Or Rice Border, for Ragouts, Fricassees, &c. (an Entree).

1350. Ingredients. — ll lb. of rice, 3 pints of weak stock or broth,
2 slices of fat ham, 1 teaspoonful of salt.

Mode. — A casserole of rice, when made in a mould, is not such a
difficult operation as when it is moulded by the hand. It is an elegant
and inexpensive entree, as the remains of cold fish, flesh, or fowl may
be served as ragouts, fricassees, &c., in-
closed in the casserole. It requires great
nioety in its preparation, the principal
thing to attend to being the boiling of the
rice, as, if this is not sufficiently cooked,
the casserole, when moulded, will have a rough appearance, tvhich
would entirely spoil it. After having washed the rice in two or three
waters, drain it well, and put it into a stewpan with the stock, ham,
and salt ; cover the pan closely, and let the rice gradually swell over
a slow fire, occasionally stirring, to prevent its sticking. When it
is quite soft, strain it, pick out the pieces of ham, and, with the
back of a large wooden spoon, mash the rice to a perfectly smooth
paste. Then well grease a mould (moulds are made purposely for
rice borders), and turn it upside down fOr a minute or two, to drain
away the fat, should there be too much ; put some rice all round
the bottom and sides of it ; place a piece of soft bread in the middle,
and cover it with rice ; press it in equally with the spoon, and let
it cool. Then dip the mould into hot water, turn the casserole care-
fully on to a dish, mark where the lid is to be formed on the top, by
making an incision with the point of a knife about an inch from the
edge all round, and put it-into a very hot oven. Brush it over with a
little clarified butter, and bake about \ hour, or rather longer ; then
carefully remove the lid, which will be formed by the incision having
been made all round, and remove the bread, in small pieces, with the
point of a penknife, being careful not to injure the casserole. Fill the
centre with the ragout or fricassee, which should be made thick ;
put on the cover, glaze it, place it In the oven to set the glaze, and
serve as hot as possible. The casserole should not be emptied too
much, as it is liable to crack from the weight of whatever is put in ;

C80

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and in baking1 it, let the oven be very hot, or the casserole will
probably break.

Time. — About £ hour to swell the rice.

Sufficient for 2 moderate-sized casseroles.

Seasonable at any time.

SWEET CASSEROLE OF RICE (an Entremets).

1351- Ingredients. — 1$ lb. of rice, 3 pints of milk, sugar to taste,
flavouring of bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, the yolks of 3 eggs.

Mode. This is made in precisely the same manner as a savoury
casserole, only substituting the milk and sugar for the stock and salt.
Put the milk into a stewpan, with sufficient essence of bitter almonds
to flavour it well ; then add the rice, which should be washed, picked,
and drained, and let it swell gradually in the milk over a slow fire.
When it is tender, stir in the sugar, butter, and yolks of eggs ; butter
a mould, press in the rice, and proceed in exactly the same manner as
in recipe No. 1350. When the casserole is ready, fill it with a compote
of any fruit that may be preferred, or with melted apricot-jam, and
serve.

Time. — Prom f to 1 hour to swell the rice, i to f 'hour to bake the
casserole.

Ateraqe cost, exclusive of the compote or jam, Is. 9 d.

Sufficient for 2 casseroles. Seasonable at any time.

FRENCH RICE PUDDING, or GATEAU DE RIZ.

1 352. Ingredients. — To every ] lb. of rice allow 1 quart of milk, the
rind of 1 lemon, i teaspoonful of salt, sugar to taste, 4 oz. of butter,
6 eggs, bread crumbs.

Mode. — Put the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-rind, and let
it infuse for i hour, or until the former is well flavoured ; then take
out the peel ; have ready the rice washed, picked, and drained ; put
it into the milk, and let it gradually swell over a very slow fire.
Stir in the butter, salt, and sugar, and when properly sweetened, add
the yolks of the eggs, and then the whites, both of which should be
well beaten, and added separately to the rice. Butter a mould,
strew in some fine bread crumbs, and let them be spread equally
over it ; then carefully pour in the rice, and bake the pudding in
a sloiv oven for 1. hour. Turn it out of the mould, and garnish the
dish with preserved cherries, or any bright-coloured jelly or jam.
This pudding would be exceedingly nice, flavoured' with essence of
vanilla.

rUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

681

Time. — 3 to 1 hour for the rice to swell ; to he baked 1 hour in a
slow oven.

Average cost, Is. Sc/.

Sufficient for 0 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BAKED OB. BOILED GROUND RICE PUDDING.

1353. Ingredients. — 2 pints of milk, 6 tablespoonfuls of ground

rice, sugar to taste, 4 eggs, flavouring of lemon-rind, nutmeg, bitter
almonds or bay-leaf. i

Mode— Put lb pint of the milk into a stewpan, with any of the
above flavourings, and bring it to the boiling-point, and, with the
other 5 pint of milk, mix the ground rice to a smooth batter ; strain
the boiling milk to this, and stir over the fire until the mixture is
tolerably thick ; then pour it into a basin, leave it uncovered, and
when nearly or quite cold, sweeten it to taste, and add the eggs, which
should be previously well beaten, with a little salt. Put the pudding
into a well-buttered basin, tie it down with a cloth, plunge it into
boiling water, and boil for lj hour. Por a baked pudding, proceed
in precisely the same manner, only using half the above proportion of
ground rice, with the same quantity of all the other ingredients : an .
hour will bake the pudding in a moderate oven. Stewed fruit, or
preserves, or marmalade, may be served with either the boiled or baked
pudding, and will be found an improvement.

Time. — 1| hour to boil, 1 hour to bake. Average cost, 10 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 'Seasonable at any time.

ICED RICE PUDDING.

1354. Ingredients.— 6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, lb. of sugar,
the yolks of 6 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of essence of vanilla.

Mode. — Put the rice into a stewpan, with the milk and sugar, and
let these simmer over a gentle fire until the rice is sufficiently soft to'
break up into a smooth mass, and should the milk dry away too much,
a little more may be added. Stir the rice occasionally, to prevent its
burning, then beat it to a smooth mixture ; add the yolks of the eggs,
which should be well whisked, and the vanilla (should this flavouring
not be liked, essence of bitter almonds may be substituted for it) ; put
this rice custard into the freezing-pot, and proceed as directed in
recipe No. 1290. When wanted for table, turn the pudding out of the-
mould, and pour over the top, and round it, a compote of oranges,,
or any other fruit that may be preferred, taking care that the-
flavouring in the pudding harmonizes well with the fruit that is
served with it.

C82

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

'Time. — .1 hour to freeze the mixture.

Average cost, Is. G cl. ; exclusive of the compote, Is. id.
Seasonable. — Served all the year round.

MINIATURE RICE PUDDINGS.

1355. Ingredients.— i lb. of rice, lj pint of milk, 2 oz. of fresh
butter, 4 eggs, sugar to taste ; flavouring of lemon-peel, bitter almonds,
or vanilla ; a few strips of candied peel.

Mode.— Let the rice swell in 1 pint of the milk over a slow fire,
putting with it a strip of lemon-peel ; stir to it the butter and the
other h pint of milk, and let the mixture cool. Then add the well-
beaten eggs, and a few drops of essence of almonds or essence of
vanilla, whichever may be preferred ; butter well some small cups
or moulds, line them with a few pieces of candied peel sliced very
thin, fill them three parts full, and bake for about 40 minutes ; turn
them out of the cups on to a white d’oyley, and serve with sweet sauce.
The flavouring and candied peel might be omitted, and stewed fruit
or preserve served instead, with these puddings.

Time. — 40 minutes. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 6 puddings. Seasonable at any time.

ARROWROOT SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1356. Ingredients.— 2 small teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 4 dessert-
spoonfuls of pounded sugar, the j uice of i lemon, £ teaspoonful of
grated nutmeg, i pint of water.

Mode. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the water ; put this into
astewpan; add the sugar, strained lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg.
Stir these ingredients over the fire until they boil, when the sauce is
ready for use. A small quantity of wine, or any liqueur, would very
much improve the flavour of this sauce : it is usually served with
bread, rice, custard, or any dry pudding that is not very rich.

Time. — Altogether, 15 minutes. Average cost, id.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

CHERRY SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

{German Recipe.)

1357. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of cherries, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 oz.
of butter, £ pint of water, 1 wineglassful of port wine, a little grated
lemon-rind, 4 pounded cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, sugar
to taste.

Mode. — Stone the cherries, and pound the kernels in a mortar to a
smooth paste ; put the butter and flour into a saucepan ; stir them

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

683

over the fire until of a pale brown ; then add the cherries, the pounded
kernels, the wine, and the water. Simmer these gently for £ hour, or
until the cherries are quite cooked, and rub the whole through a hair
sieve ; add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce boil for another
5 minutes, and serve. This is a delicious sauce to serve with boiled
batter pudding, and when thus used, should be sent to table poured
over the pudding.

Tune. — 20 minutes to i hour. Average cost, Is. 2 cl.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in June, July, and August.

LEMON SAUCE FOE, SWEET PUDDINGS.

1358. Ingredients. — The rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful
of flour, 1 oz. of butter, 1 large wineglassful of sherry, 1 wineglassful
of water, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs.

Mode. — Rub the rind of the lemon on to some lumps of sugar ;
squeeze out the juice, and strain it ; put the butter and flour into a
saucepan, stir them over the fire, and when of a pale brown, add the
wine, water, and strained lemon -juice. Crush the lumps of sugar that
were rubbed on the lemon ; stir these into the sauce, which should be
very sweet. 'When these ingredients are' well mixed, and the sugar
is melted, put in the beaten yolks of 4 eggs ; keep Stirling the sauce
until it thickens, when serve. Do not, on any account, allow it to
boil, or it will curdle, and be entirely spoiled.

Time. — Altogether, 15 minutes. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

S OYER’S SAUCE FOR PLUM-PUDDING.

1359- Ingredients.— The yolks of 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of pow-
dered sugar, 1 gill of milk, a very little grated lemon-rind, 2 small
wineglassfuls of brandy..

Mode. — Separate the yolks from the whites of 3 eggs, and put the
former into a stewpan ; add the sugar, milk, and grated lemon-rind,
and stir over the fire until the mixture thickens ; but do not allow it
to boil. Put in the brandy ; let the sauce stand by the side of the
fire, to get quite hot ; keep stirring it, and serve in a boat or tureen
separately, or pour it over the pudding.

Time.— Altogether, 10 minutes. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

SWEET SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1360. Ingredients, i pint of melted butter made with milk, 3
heaped teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, flavouring of grated lemon-
rind, or nutmeg, or cinnamon.

GS4

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode.— Make 3 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 380, omitting
the so.lt; stir in tlic sugar, add a little grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, or
powdered cinnamon, and serve. Previously to making the melted
butter, the milk can be flavoured with bitter almonds, bv infusing
about half a dozen of them in it for about 3 hour; the milk^hould
then be strained before it is added to the other ingredients'. This
simple sauce may be served for children with rice, batter, or bread
pudding.

Time. — Altogether, 15 minutes. Average cost, 4 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

VANILLA CUSTARD SAUCE, to serve with Puddings^

1361. Ingredients. — a pint of milk, 2 eggs, 2 oz.of sugar, 10 drops
of essence of vanilla.

Mode. — Beat the eggs, sweeten the milk ; stir these ingredients
well together, and flavour them with essence of vanilla, regulating
the proportion of this latter ingredient by the strength of the essence,
the size of the eggs, &c. Put the mixture into a small jug, place this
jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the sauce one icpy until it
thickens ; but do not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle. Serve
in a boat or tureen separately, with plum, bread, or any kind of dry
pudding. Essence of bitter almonds or lemon-rind may be substituted
for the vanilla, when they are more in accordance with the flavouring
of the pudding with which the sauce is intended to be served.

Time. — To be stirred in the jug from 8 to 10 minutes.

Average cost, id.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

AN EXCELLENT WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1362. Ingredients. — The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of flour,
2 oz. of pounded sugar, 2 oz. of fresh butter, \ saltspoonful of salt,
■J pint of sherry or Madeira.

Mode. — Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, and stir them
-over the fire until the former thickens ; then add the sugar, salt, and
wine, and mix these ingredients well together. Separate the yolks
from the whites of 4 eggs ; beat up the former, and stir them briskly
to the sauce ; let it remain over the fire until it is on the point of
■simmering ; but dp not allow it to boil, or it will instantly curdle.
This sauce is delicious with plum, marrow, or bread puddings ; but
should be served separately, and not poured over the pudding.

Time. — From 5 to 7 minutes to thicken the butter ; about 5 minutes
do stir the sauce over the fire.

Average cost, Is. 10 A Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

PUDDINGS AND PASTKY.

6S5

WINE OR BRANDT SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1363. Ingredients. — i pint of melted butter No. 377, 3 heaped
teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar ; 1 large wineglassful of port or sherry,
or § of a small glassful of brandy.

Mode. — Make i pint of melted butter by recipe No. 377, omitting
the salt; then stir in the sugar and wine or spirit in the above pro-
portion, and bring the sauce to the point of boiling. Serve in a boat
or tureen separately, and, if liked, pour a little of it over the pudding.
To convert this into punch sauce, add to the sherry and brandy a
small wineglassful of rum and the juice and grated rind of | lemon.
Liqueurs, such as Maraschino or Cura5oa, substituted for the brandy,
make excellent sauces. ,

Time. — Altogether, 15 minutes. Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

WINE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

1364. Ingredients. — -■} pint of sherry, £ pint of water, the yolks of
5 eggs, 2 oz. of pounded sugar, f teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel,
a few pieces of candied citron cut thin.

Mode. — Separate the yolks from the whites of 5 eggs ; beat them,
and put them into a very clean saucepan (if at hand, a lined one is
best) ; add all the other ingredients, place them over a sharp fire, and
keep stirring until the sauce begins to thicken ; then take it off and
serve. If it is allowed to boil, it will be spoiled, as it will immediately
curdle.

Time. — To be stirred over the fire 3 or 4 minutes ; but it must not boil.

Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for a large pudding ; allow half this quantity for a mode-
rate-sized one.

Seasonable at any time.

OPEN TART OF STRAWBERRT OR ANT OTHER KIND*

OF PRESERVE.

1365. Ingredients.— Trimmings of puff-paste, any kind of jam.

Mode— Butter a tart-pan of the shape shown in the engraving;

OPEN TABT. OPEN-TART MOULD.

roll out the paste to the thickness of i an inch, and line the pan with

G8G

MODERN nOOSEIIOLD COOKERY.

it ; prick a few holes at the bottom with a fork, and bake the tart in
a brisk oven from 10 to 15 minutes. Let the paste cool a little ; then
fill it with preserve, place a few stars or leaves on it, which have been
previously cut out of the paste and baked, and the tart is ready for
table. By making it in this manner, both the flavour and colour of
the jam are preserved, which would otherwise be lost, were it baked
in the oven on the paste ; and, besides, so much jam is not required.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient. — 1 tart for 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.

STKAwnEiuiY. — Tho name of this favourite fruit is said to be derived from an ancient
custom of putting straw beneath the fruit when it began to ripen, which is very useful
to keep it moist and clean. The strawberry belongs to temperate and rather cold climates ;
and no fruit of these latitudes, that ripens without the aid of artificial heat, is at all com-
parable with it in point of flavour. The strawberry is widely diffused, being found in
most parts of the world, particularly in Europe and America.

QUICKLY-MADE PUDDINGS.

1366- Ingredients. — Jib. of butter, i lb. of sifted sugar, Jib. of
flour, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a little grated lemon-rind.

Mode. — Make the milk hot ; stir in the butter, and let it cool
before the other ingredients are added to it ; then stir in the sugar,
flour, and eggs, which should be well whisked, and omit the whites
of 2 ; flavour with a little grated lemon-rind, and beat the mixture
well. Butter some small cups, rather more than half fill them ;
bake from 20 minutes to J hour, according to the size of the puddings,
and serve with fruit, custard, or wine sauce, a little of which may be
poured over them.

Time. — 20 minutes to h hour. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient for 6 puddings. Seasonable at any time.

SAGO PUDDING.

1367. Ingredients. — 1J pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of sago, the
rind of \ lemon, 3oz. of sugar, 4 eggs, Ij oz. of butter, grated nutmeg,
puff-paste.

Mode. — Put the milk and lemon-rind into a stewpan, place it by
the side of the fire, and let it remain until the milk is well flavoured
with the lemon ; then strain it, mix with it the sago and sugar, and
simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Let. the mixture cool a little, and
stir to it the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the butter. Line
the edges of a pie-dish with puff-paste, pour in the pudding, grate a
little nutmeg over the top, and bake from J to 1 hour.

Time.—? to 1 hour, or longer if the oven is very slow.

Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 5 or G persons. Seasonable at any time.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

687

]Sf0ie. The above pudding may be boiled instead of baked ; but then allow

2 extra tablespoonfuls of sago, and boil the pudding in a buttered basin from

to If hour.

Sago— Sago is the pith of a species.of palm (Cycas circinalis). Its form is that of a
small round grain. There are two sorts of sago,— the white and the yellow; but their
properties are the same. Sago absorbs the liquid in which it is cooked, becomes trans-
parent and soft, and retains its original shape. Its alimentary properties are the same
as those of tapioca and arrowroot.

SAGO SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

1368. Ingredients.— 1 tabiespoonful of sago, | pint of water, l pint
of port or sherry, the rind, and j ince of 1 small lemon, sugar to taste ;
when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinnamon.

Mode. — Wash the sago in two or three waters ; then put it into a
saucepan, with the water and lemon-peel ; let it simmer gently by
the side of the fire for 10 minutes ; then take out the lemon-peel, add
the remaining ingredients, give one boil, and serve. Be particular
to strain the lemon-juice before adding it to the sauce. This, on trial,
will be found a delicious accompaniment to various boiled puddings,
such as those made of bread, raisins, rice, &e.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

BAKED SEMOLINA PUDDING.

1369. Ingredients.— 3 oz. of semolina, H pint of mills, f lb. of
sugar, 12 bitter almonds, 3 oz. of butter, 4 eggs.

Mode. — Flavour the milk with the bitter almonds, by infusing them
in it by the side of the fire for about i hour ; then strain it, and mix
with it the semolina, sugar, and butter. Stir these ingredients over
the fire for a few minutes ; then take them off, and gradually mix in
the eggs, which should be well beaten. Butter a pie-dish, line the
edges with puff-paste, put in the pudding, and bake in rather a slow
oven from 40 to 50 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or stewed fruit,
a little of which may be poured over the pudding.

Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Semolina. — After vermicelli, semolina is the most useful ingredient that can be used
for thickening soups, meat or vegetable, of rich or simple quality. Semolina is softening,
light, wholesome, easy of digestion, and adapted to the infant, the aged, and the invalid.
That of a clear yellow colour, well dried and newly made, is the fittest for use.

, TAPIOCA PUDDING.

1370. Ingredients. — 3 oz. of .tapioca, I quart of milk, 2 oz. of
butter, \ lb. of sugar, 4 eggs, flavouring of vanilla, grated lemon-rind,
or bitter almonds.

6S8

MODERN nOOSEUOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — W ash the tapioca, and let it stew gently in the milk by the
side of the fire for \ hour, occasionally stirring it ; then let it cool a
little ; mix with it the butter, sugar, and eggs, which should be well
beaten, and flavour with either of the above ingredients, putting in
about 12 drops of the essence of almonds or vanilla, whichever is pre-
ferred. Butter a pie-dish, and line the edges with puff-paste; put
in the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. If the
pudding is boiled, add a little more tapioca, and boil it in a buttered
basin ll hour.

Time. — 1 hour to bake, 1|- hour to boil. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient fox 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

TArioCA. — Tapioca is recommended to the convalescent, as being easy of digestion.
It may be used in soup or broth, or mixed with milk or water, and but ter. It is excellent
food for either the healthy or sick, for the reason that it is so quickly digested without
fatigue to the stomach.

TARTLETS.

1371. Ingredients.— Trimmings of puff-paste, any jam or marma-
lade that may be preferred.

Mode. — Roll out the paste to the thickness of about \ inch ; butter
some small round patty-pans, line them with it, and cut off the super-
fluous paste close to the edge of the pan. Put a small piece of bread
into each tartlet (this is to keep them in shape),

and bake in a brisk oven for about 10 minutes,

or rather longer. When they are done, and are
of a nice colour, take the pieces of bread out
carefully, and replace them by a spoonful of
.jam or marmalade. Dish them high on a white d’oyley, piled high
in the centre, and serve.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, Id. each.

Sufficient. — 1 lb. of paste will make 2 dishes of tartlets.

Seasonable at any time.

ROLLED TREACLE PUDDING-.

1372. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of suet crust No. 1215, \ lb. of treacle,
\ teaspoonful of grated ginger.

Mode.— Make, with 1 lb. of flour, a suet crust by recipe No. 1215 ;
roll it out to the thickness of % inch, and spread the treacle equally
over it, leaving a small margin where the paste joins ; close the ends
securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling
water, and boil for 2 hours. We have inserted this pudding, being
economical, and a favourite one with children ; it is, of course, only
suitable for a nursery, or very plain family dinner. Made with a lard

DISH OF TAHTLETS.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

689

instead of a suet crust, it would be very nice baked, and would be
sufficiently done in from 1$ to 2 hours.

Time. — Boiled pudding, 2 hours ; baked pudding, l a to 2 hours.

Average cost , 7 cl.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

MEAT OB SAUSAGE BOLLS.

1373. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of puff-paste No. 1206, sausage-meat
No. 837, the yolk of 1 egg.

Afotfc.— Make 1 lb. of puff-paste by recipe No. 1206 ; roll it out to the
thickness of about g inch, or rather less, and divide it into 8, 10, or
12 squares, according to the size the rolls are intended to be. Place
some sausage-meat on one-half of each square, wet the edges of the
paste, and fold it over the meat ; slightly press the edges together, and
trim them neatly with a knife. ' Brush the rolls over with the yolk of
an egg, and bake them in a well-heated oven for about h hour, or
longer should they be very large. The remains of cold chicken and
ham, minced and seasoned, as also cold veal or beef, make very good
rolls.

Time. — l hour, or longer if the rolls are large.

Average cost, Is. 6c/.

Sufficient. — 1 lb. of paste for 10 or 12 rolls.

Seasonable, with sausage-meat, from September to March or April.

SOMEBSETSHIBE PUDDINGS.

1374. Ingredients. — 3 eggs, their weight in flour, pounded sugar
and butter, flavouring of grated lemon-rind, bitter almonds, or essence
of vanilla.

Mode. — Carefully weigh the various ingredients, by placing on
one side of the scales the eggs,’ and on the other the flour ; then the
sugar, and then the butter. Warm the butter, and with the hands
beat it to a cream ; gradually dredge in the flour and pounded sugar,
and keep stirring and beating the mixture without ceasing until it is
perfectly smooth. Then add the eggs, which should be well whisked,
and either of the above flavourings that may be preferred ; butter
some small cups, rather more than half-fill them, and bake in a
brisk oven for about. 4 hour. Turn them out, dish them on a napkin,
and serve custard or wine-sauce with them. A pretty little supper-
dish may be made of these puddings cold, by cutting out a portion
of the inside with the point of a knife, and putting into the
cavity a little whipped cream or delicate preserve, such as apricot,
greengage, or very bright marmalade. The paste for these pud-

G90

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

dings requires a great deal of mixing, as the more it is beaten,
the better will the puddings be. "When served cold, they are usually
called gateaux a la Madeleine.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, 10 d.

Sufficient for G or 7 puddings. Seasonable at any time.

SUET PUDDING, to serve with Roast Meat.

1375- Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of finely-chopped suet,
i saltspoonful of salt, l saltspoonful of pepper, i pint of milk or water.

Mode. — Chop the suet very finely, after freeing it from skin, and
mix it well with the flour ; add the salt and pepper (this latter ingre-
dient may be omitted if the flavour is not liked), and make the whole
into a smooth paste with the above proportion of milk or water. Tie
the pudding in a floured cloth, or put it into a buttered basin, and
boil from 21 to 3 hours. To enrich it, substitute 3 beaten eggs for
some of the milk or water, and increase the proportion of suet.

Time. — 21 to 3 hours. Average cost, 6 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — When there is a joint roasting or baking, this pudding may be boiled
in a long shape, and then cat into slices a fijw minutes before dinner is served :
these slices should be laid in the dripping-pan for a minute or two, and then
browned before the fire. Most children like this accompaniment to roast meat.
Where there is a large family of children, and the means of keeping them are
limited, it is a most economical plan to serve up the pudding before the meat :
as, in this case, the consumption of the latter article will be much smaller than
it otherwise would be.

SUSSEX, or HARD DUMPLINGS.

1376. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of flour, Apint>of water, i saltspoonful
of salt.

Mode. — Mix the flour and water together to a smooth paste,
previously adding a small quantity of salt. Form this into small
round dumplings ; drop them into boiling water, and boil from
-2- to j hour. They may be served with roast or boiled meat ; in the
latter case they may be cooked with the meat, but should be dropped
into the water when it is quite boiling.

Time. — -V to 3 hour.

, Sufficient for 10 or 12 dumplings. Seasonable at any time.

VERMICELLI PUDDING.

1377. Ingredients. — 4 oz. of vermicelli, li pint of milk, A pint of
cream 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of sugar, 4 eggs.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

691

Mode. — Boil the vermicelli in the milk until it is tender; then stir
in the remaining ingredients, omitting the cream, if not obtainable.
Flavour the mixture with grated lemon -rind, essence of bitter almonds,
or vanilla ; butter a pie-dish ; line the edges with puff-paste, put in
the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven for about f hour.

Time. — f hour. Average cost, Is. 2d. without cream.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Vermicelli. — The finest vermicelli oomes from Marseilles, Mines, and Montpellier.
It is a nourishing food, and owes its name to its peculiar thread-like form. Vermicelli
means, little worms.

VICARAGE PUDDliSTG.

1378. Ingredients. — j lb. of flour, j lb. of chopped suet, \ lb. of
currants, fib. of raisins, 1 tablespoonful of moist sugar, i teaspoonful
of ground ginger, A saltspoonful of salt.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients into a basin, having previously stoned
the raisins, and washed, picked, and dried the currants ; mix well
with a clean knife ; dip the pudding-cloth into boiling water, wring
it out, and put in the mixture. Have ready a saucepan of boiling
water, plunge in the pudding, and boil for 3 hours. Turn it out on
the dish, and serve with sifted sugar.

Time. — 3 hours. Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable. — Suitable for a winter pudding.

VOE-ATJ-VEET (an Entree).

1379. Ingredients. — $ to 1 lb. of puff-paste Ho. 1208, fricasseed
chickens, rabbits, ragouts, or the remains of cold fish, flaked and
warmed in thick white sauce.

Mode. — Hake from f to 1 lb. of puff-paste, by recipe Ho. 1208,
taking care that it is very evenly rolled out each time, to insure its
rising properly ; and if the paste is not extremely light, and put into
a good hot oven, this cannot be accomplished, and the vol-au-vent will
look very badly. Roll out the paste to the
thickness of about 1-f inch, 'and, with a fluted
cutter, stamp it out to the desired shape,
either round or oval, and, with the point of
a small knife, make a slight incision in the
paste all round the top, about an inch from
the edge, which, when baked, forms the lid. Put the vol-au-vent into
a good brisk oven, and keep the door shut for a few minutes after it
is put in. Particular attention should be paid to the heating of the
oven, for the paste cannot rise .without a tolerable degree of heat.

2 y 2

692

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

When of a nice colour, without being: scorched, withdraw it from the
oven, instantly remove the cover where it was marked, and detach all
the soft crumb from the centre : in doing this, be careful not to break
the edges of the vol-au-vent' ; but should they look thin in places,
stop them with small flakes of the inside paste, stuck on with the
white of an egg. This precaution is necessary to prevent the fricassee
or ragout from bursting the case, and so spoiling the appearance of
the dish. Fill the vol-au-vent with a rich mince, or fricassee, or ragout,
or the remains of cold fish flaked and warmed in a good white sauce,
and do not make them very liquid, for fear of the gravy bursting the
crust : replace the lid, and serve. To improve the appearance of the
crust, brush it over with the yolk of an egg after it has risen properly.
— See coloured plate Ol.

Time. — f hour to bake the vol-au-vent.

Average cost, exclusive of interior, Is. 6 cl.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Small vol-au-vents may be made like
those shown in the engraving, and filled with
minced veal, chicken, &c. They should be made
of the same paste as the larger ones, and stamped
out with a small fluted cutter.

SWEET VOL-AU-VENT OP PLUMS, APPLES, OR ANY
OTHER PRESH PRUIT.

1380. Ingredients.— £ lb. of puff-paste Ho. 1208, about 1 pint of
fruit compote.

Mode. — Make lb. of puff-paste by recipe Ho. 1 208, taking care to
bake it in a good brisk oven, to draw it up nicely and make it look
light. Have ready sufficient stewed fruit, the syrup of which must
be boiled down until very thick ; fill the vol-au-vent with this, and
pile it high in the centre ; powder a little sugar over it, and put it
back in the oven to glaze, or use a salamander for the purpose : the
vol-axt-vent is then ready to serve. They may be made with any fruit
that is in season, such as rhubarb, oranges, gooseberries, currants,
cherries, apples, &c. ; but care must be taken not to have the syrup too
thin, for fear of its breaking through the crust.

Time. — -} hour to 40 minutes to bake the vol-au-vent.

Average cost, exclusive of the compote, Is. Id.

Sufficient for 1 entremets.

VOL-AU-VENT OP PRESH STRAWBERRIES WITH
WHIPPED CREAM.

1381. Ingredients.— f lb. of puff-paste Ho. 1208, 1 pint of freshly-
gathered strawberries, sugar to taste, a plateful of whipped cream.

SMALL VOL-AU-VENTS.

PUDDINGS AND PASTRY.

693

Mode. — Make a vol-au-vent case by recipe No. 1379, only not quite
so large nor so liigli as for a savoury one. When nearly done, brush
the paste over with the white of an egg, then sprinkle on it some
pounded sugar, and put it hack in the oven to set the glaze. Nemovc
the interior, or soft crumb, and, at the moment of serving, fill it with
the strawberries, which should be picked, and broken up with sufficient
sugar to sweeten them nicely. Place a few spoonfuls of whipped
cream on the top, and serve.

Time. — h hour to 40 minutes to bake the vol-au-vent.

Average cost, 2s. 3 cl.

Sufficient for 1 vol-au-vent.

Seasonable in June and July.

Strawberry. — Among tlie Greeks, the name of the strawberry indicated its tenuity,
this fruit forming hardly a mouthful. With the Latins, the name reminded one of the
delicious perfume of this plant. Both nations were equally fond of it, and applied the
same care to its cultivation. Virgil appears to place it in the same rank with flowers ;
and Ovid gives it a tender epithet, which delicate palates would not disavow. Neither
does this luxurious poet forget the wild strawberry, which disappears beneath' its modest
foliage, but whose presence the scented air reveals.

WE S T-IEDI AN PUDDING.

1382. Ingredients. — 1 pint of cream, lib. of loaf-sugar, f lb. of
Savoy or sponge-cakes, 8 eggs, 3 oz. of preserved green ginger.

Mode. — Crumble down the cakes, put them into a basin, and pour
over them the cream, which should be previously sweetened and
brought to the boiling-point ; cover the basin, well beat the eggs, and
when the cream is soaked up, stir them in. Butter a mould, arrange
the ginger round it, pour in the pudding carefully, and tie it down
with a cloth ; steam or boil it slowly for I f hour, and serve with the
syrup from the ginger, which should be warmed, and poured over
the pudding. '

Time. — 1| hour. Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, 2s. Scl.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

YEAST DUMPLINGS.

1383. Ingredients. — l quartern of dough, boiling water.

Mode. — Make a very light dough as for bread, using to mix it,
milk, instead of water; divide it into 7 or 8 dumplings; plunge
them into boiling water, and boil them for 20 minutes. Serve the
instant they are taken up, as they spoil directly, by falling and
becoming heavy ; and in eating them do not touch them with a knife,
but tear them apart with two forks. They may be eaten with meat
gravy, or cold butter and sugar, and if not convenient to make the
dough athome, a little from the baker’s answers as well, only it must be

C94

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

placed for a few minutes near the fire, in a basin with a cloth over it,
to let it rise again before it is made into dumplings.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average cost , 4 cl.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Ybast consists principally of a substance very similar in composition, and in many
of its sensible properties, to gluten ; and, when new or frcsl), it is inflated and rendered
frothy by a large quantity of carbonic acid. When mixed with wort, this substance acts
upon the saccharine matter; the temperature rises, carbonic acid is disengaged, and the
result is ale, which always contains a considerable proportion of alcohol, or spirit. The
quantity ol yeast employed in brewing ale being small, the saccharine matter is but
imperfectly decomposed : hence a considerable portion of it remains in the liquor, and
gives it that viscid quality and body for which it is remarkable. The fermenting property
of yeast is weakened by boiling for ten minutes, and is entirely destroyed by continuing
the boiling. Alcohol poured upbn it likewise renders it inert ; on which account its power
lessens as the alcohol is formed during fermentation.

YORKSHIRE PUDDHSTG, to serve with hot Roast Beef.

1384. Ingredients. — 1§ pint of milk, 6 large tablespoon fuls of 'flour,
3 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt.

Mode. — Put the flour into a basin with the salt, and stir gradually
to this enough milk to make it into a stiff batter. When this is per-

fectly smooth, and all the lumps are well
’ rubbed down, add the remainder of the milk
and the eggs, which should be well beaten.

tobkshibe ruDnwG. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and
pour it into a shallow tin, which has been previously well rubbed with
beef dripping. Put the pudding into the oven, and bake it for an
hour ; then, for another i hour, place it under the meat, to catch a
little of the gravy that flows from it. Cut the pudding into small
square pieces, put them on a hot dish, and serve. If the meat is
baked, the pudding may at once be placed under it, resting the former
on a small three-cornered stand.

Time. — ly hour. Average cost. Id.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

CHAPTER XXYIII.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CREAMS, JELLIES,
SOUEELES, OMELETS, & SWEET DISHES.

1385. Cbeams. — The yellowish -white, opaque fluid, smooth and unctuous to
the touch, which separates itself from new milk, and forms a layer on its
surface, when removed by skimming, is employed in a variety of culinary
preparations. The analyses of the contents of cream have been decided to be,
in 100 parts — butter, 3 -5 ; curd, or matter of cheese, 3'5 ; whey, 92-0. That
cream contains an oil, is. evinced by its staining clothes in the manner of oil ;
and when boiled for some time, a little oil floats upon the surface. The thick
animal oil which it contains, the well-known butter, is separated only by
agitation, as in the common process of churning, and the cheesy matter
remains blended with the whey in the state of buttermilk. Of the several
kinds of cream, the principal are the Devonshire and Dutch clotted creams,
the Costorphin cream, and the Scotch sour cream. The Devonshire cream
is produced by nearly boiling tho milk in shallow tin vessels over a charcoal
fire, and kept in that state until the whole of the cream is thrown up. It is
used for eating with fruits and tarts. The cream from Costorphin, a village
of that name near Edinburgh, is accelerated in its separation from three or four
days’ old milk, by a certain degree of heat ; and the Dutch clotted cream — a
coagulated mass in which a spoon will stand upright — is manufactured from
fresh-drawn milk, which is put into a pan, and stirred with a spoon two or three
times a fray, to prevent the cream from separating from the milk. The Scotch
“ sour cream ” is a misnomer ; for it is a material produced without cream. A
small tub filled with skimmed milk is put into a larger one, containing hot

'096

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

water, and aftev remaining there all night, the thin milk (called vji<j<j) is
drawn off, and the remainder of the contents of the smaller vessel is “ sour
cream.”

13S6. Jellies are not the nourishing food they were at one time considered
to be, and many eminent physicians are of opinion that they are less
digestible than the flesh, or muscular part of animals ; still, when acidulated
with lemon-juice and flavoured with wine, they are very suitable for some
convalescents. Vegetable jelly is a distinct principle, existing in fruits,
which possesses the property of gelatinizing when boiled and cooled ; but it
is a principle entirely different from the gelatine of animal bodies, although
the name of jelly, common to both, sometimes leads to an erroneous idea on
that subject. Animal jelly, or gelatine, , is glue, whereas vegetable jelly is
rather analogous to gum. Liebig places gelatine very low indeed in the scale
of usefulness. He says, “ Gelatine, which by itself is tasteless, and when eaten,
excites nausea, possesses no nutritive value ; that, even when accompanied by
the savoury constituents of flesh, it is not capable of supporting the vital
process, and when added to the usual diet as a substitute for plastic matter, .
does not increase, but, on the contrary, diminishes the nutritive value of the
food, which it renders insufficient in quantity and inferior in quality.”

It is this substance which is most frequently employed in the manufacture
of the jellies supplied by the confectioner ; but those prepared at home from
calves’ feet do possess some nutrition, and Rre the only sort that should be
given to invalids. Isinglass is the purest variety of gelatine, and is prepared
from the sounds or swimming-bladders of certain fish, chiefly the sturgeon.
From its whiteness it is mostly used for making blanc-mange and similar
dishes.

1387. The White oe Egcjs is perhaps the best substance that can be em-
ployed in clarifying jelly, as well as spine other fluids, for the reason that when
albumen (and the white of eggs is nearly pure albumen) is put into a liquid
that is muddy, from substances suspended in it, on boiling the liquid, the
albumen coagulates in a floeculent manner, and, entangling with it the
impurities, rises with them to the surface as a scum, or sinks to the bottom,
according to their weight.

1388. Souffles, Omelets, and Sweet Dishes, in which eggs form the
principal ingredient, demand, for their successful manufacture, an experienced
cook. Thoy are the prettiest, but most difficult of all entremets. The most
essential thing to insure success is to secure the best ingredients from an
honest tradesman. The entremets coming within the above classification,
■are healthy, nourishing, and pleasant to the taste, and may bo eaten with
safety by persons of the most delicate stomachs.

RECIPES

CHAPTER XXIX.

BAKED APPLE CUSTARD.

1389. Ingredients. — 1 dozen large apples, moist sugar to taste,
1 small teacupful of cold water, the grated rind of one lemon, 1 pint
of milk, 4 eggs, 2 oz. of loaf sugar.

3Iodc. — Peel, cut, and core the apples ; put them into a lined sauce-
pan with the cold water, and as they heat, bruise them to a pulp ;
sweeten with moist sugar, and add the grated lfemou-rind. When
cold, put the fruit at the bottom of a pie-dish, and pour over it a
custard, made with the above proportion of milk, eggs, and sugar ;
grate a little nutmeg over the top, place the dish in a moderate
oven, and bake from 25 to 35 minutes. The above proportions will
make rather a large dish.

Time. — 25 to 35 minutes. Average cost, Is. 4 cl.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from July to March.

•

BUTTERED APPLES (Sweet Entremets).

1390. Ingredients. — Apple marmalade No. 1395, 6 or 7 good
boiling apples, J pint of water, 6 oz. of sugar, 2 oz. of butter, a little
apricot jam.

3Tocle. — Pare the apples, and take out the cores without dividing
them ; boil up the sugar and water for a few minutes ; then lay in the
apples, and simmer them very gently until tender, taking care not to
let them break. Have ready sufficient marmalade made by recipe
No. 1395, and flavoured with lemon, to cover the bottom of the dish ;
arrange the apples on this with a piece of butter placed in each, and
in between them a few spoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade; place
the dish in the oven for 10 minutes, then sprinkle over the top sifted
sugar ; either brown it before the fire or with a salamander, and
serve hot.

C98

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time.— From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently, 10
minutes in the oven.

Average cost, Is. 6 d. Sufficient for 1 entremets.

Note. — The syrup that the apples were boiled in should be saved for another
occasion.

ELAEC OE APPLES, or APPLES IE A RAISED CRUST.

(Sweet Nntrenuts.) *

1391- Ingredients.— f lb. of short crust No. 1211 or 1212, 9 mode-
rate-sized apples, the rind and juice of 4 lemon, \ lb. of white sugar,
f pint of water, a few strips of candied citron.

Mode. — Make a short crust by either of the above recipes ; roll it
out to the thickness of i inch, and butter an oval mould ; line it
with the crust, and press it carefully all round the sides, to obtain
the form of the mould, but he particular not to break the paste.
Pinch the part that just rises above the mould with the paste-pincers,
and till the case with flour ; bake it for about f hour ; then take it out
of the oven, remove the flour, put the case back in the oven for another
j hour, and do not allow it to get scorched. It is now ready for the
apples, which should he prepared in the following manner : peel, and
take out the cores with a small knife, or a cutter for the purpose,
without dividing the apples ; put them into a small lined saucepan,
just capable of holding them, with sugar, water, lemon juice and
rind, in the above proportion. Let them simmer very gently until
tender ; then take out the apples, let them cool, arrange them in the
flanc or ease, and boil down the syrup until reduced to a thick jelly ;
pour it over the apples, and garnish them with a few slices of can-
died citron.

1392. A more simple flanc may be made by rolling out the paste,
cutting the bottom of a round or oval shape, and then a narrow strip
for the sides': these should be stuck on with the white of an egg, to
the bottom piece, and the flanc then filled with raw fruit, with sufficient
sugar to sweeten it nicely. It will not require so long baking as in a
mould ; but the crust must be made everywhere of an equal thick-
ness, and so perfectly joined, that the juice does not escape. This
dish may also be served hot, and should be garnished in the same
manner, or a little melted apricot jam may be poured over the
apples, which very much improves their flavour.

Time. — Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc, from 30 to 40 minutes
to stew the apples very gently.

Average cost, Is. 6c/.'

Sufficient for 1 entremets or side-dish.

Seasonable from July to March.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

699

• APPLE FBITTEBS.

1393. Ingredients. — For the batter, -V lb. of' flour, A oz. of butter,
$ saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, apples, hot lard or clarified
beef-dripping.

Mode. — Break the eggs ; separate the whites from the yolks, and
beat them separately. Put the flour into a basin, stir in the butter,
which should be melted to a cream ; add the salt, and moisten with
sufficient warm milk to make it of a proper consistency, that is to say,
a batter that will drop from the spoon. Stir this well, rub down any
lumps that may be seen, and add the whites of the eggs, which
have been previously well whisked ; beat up the batter for a
few minutes, and it is ready for use. How peel and cut the apples
into rather thick whole slices, without dividing them, and stamp out
the middle of each slice, where the core is, with a cutter. Throw the
slices into the batter ; have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified
dripping ; takfe out the pieces of apple one by one, put them into
the hot lard, and fry a nice brown, turning them when required.
"When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to
absorb the greasy moisture ; then dish on a white d’oyley, piled one
above the other ; strew over them some pounded sugar, and serve very
hot. The flavour of the fritters would be very much improved by
soaking the pieces of apple in a little wine, mixed with sugar and
lemon-juice, for 3 or 4 hours before wanted for table ; the batter,
also, is better for being mixed some hours before the fritters are made.

Time. — About 10 minutes to fry them ; 5 minutes to drain them.

Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable from July to March.

ICED APPLES, or APPLE HEDGEHOG.

1394- Ingredients. — About 3 dozen good boiling apples, i lb. of
sugar, 5 pint of water, the rind of -* lemon minced very fine, the
whites of 2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few sweet
almonds.

Mode. — Peel and core a dozen of the apples without dividing them,
and stetv them very gently in a lined saucepan with i lb. of sugar
and 1 pint of water, and when tender, lift them carefully on to a dish.
Have ready the remainder of the apples pared, cored, and cut into
thin slices ; put them into the same syrup with the lemon-peel, and
boil gently until they are reduced to a marmalade : they must be kept
stirred, to prevent them from burning. Cover the bottom of a dish
with some of the marmalade, and over that a layer of the stewed

700

MODERN HOUSEHOED COOKERY.

apples, in the insides of which, and between each, place some of the
marmalade ; then place another layer of apples, and fill up the cavities
with marmalade as before, forming the whole into a raised oval shape.
Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth , mix with them the
pounded sugqr, and cover the apples very smoothly all over with the
icing; blanch and cut each almond into 4 or 5 strips; place these
strips at equal distances over the icing sticking up; strew over a
little rough pounded sugar, and place the dish in a very slow oven,
to colour the almonds, and for the apples to get warm through. This
entremets may also be served cold, and makes a pretty supper-dish.

Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.

Average cost, Is. 9 d. to 2s.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from July to March.

THICK APPLE JELLY OR MARMALADE, for Entremets
or Dessert Dishes.

1395. Ingredients. — Apples; to every lb. of pulp allow % lb. of
sugar, i teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel.

Mode.-L- Peel, core, and boil the apples with oniy sufficient water to
prevent them from burning ; beat them to a pulp, and to every lb. of

about 20 minutes, or until the apples cease to stick to the bottom of the
pan. The jelly is then done, and may be poured into moulds which have
been previously dipped in water, when it will turn out nicely for
dessert or a side-dish ; for the latter a little custard should be poured
round, and it should be garnished with strips of citron or stuck with
blanched almonds.

Time. — From 4 to % hour to reduce the apples to a pulp ; 20 minutes
to boil after the sugar is added.

Sufficient. — l j lb. of apples sufficient for a small mould.

Seasonable from July to March; but is best in September, October,
or November.

1396. Ingredients. — 2 dozen apples, 14 pint of spring- water ; to
every pint of juice allow h lb. of loaf sugar, 4 oz. of isinglass, the rind
of i lemon.

APPLE JELLY STUCK WITH ALMONDS.

pulp allow the above proportion of
sugar in lumps. Dip the lumps
into water ; put these into a
saucepan, and boil till the syrup
is thick and can be well skimmed ;
then add this syrup to the apple
pulp, with the minced lemon-peel,
and stir it over a quick fire for

CLEAR APPLE JELLY.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

701

Mode. — Pare, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and boil them,
with the lemon-peel, until tender ; then strain off the apples, and run
the juice through a jelly-bag ; put the strained juice, with the sugar
and isinglass, which has been previously boiled in £ pint of water,
into a lined saucepan or preserving-pan ; boil all together for about
i hour, and put the jelly into moulds. When this jelly is nice and
clear, and turned out well, it makes a pretty addition to the supper-
table, with a little custard or whipped cream round it : the addition
of a little lemon-juice improves the .flavour, but it is apt to render the
jelly muddy and thick. If required to be kept any length of time,
rather a larger proportion of sugar must be used.

Time. — From 1 to l£ hour to boil the apples ; i hour the jelly.

Average cost, Is. 6 cl.

Sufficient for a ll-piut mould. Seasonable from July to March.

A PRETTY DISH OP APPLES AND RICE.

1397. Ingredients.— 6 oz, of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of i
lemon, sugar to taste, I saltspoonful of salt, 8 apples, \ lb. of sugar,
| pint of water, i pint of boiled custard No. 1423.

Mode.— Flavour the milk with lemon-rind, by boiling them together
for a few minutes ; then take out the peel, and put in the rice, with
sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely, and boil gently until the rice is
quite soft ; then let it cool. In the mean time pare, quarter, and
core the apples, and boil them until tender in a syrup made with
sugar and water in the above proportion ; and, when soft, lift them
out on a sieve to drain. Now put a middling-sized gallipot in the
centre of a dish ; lay the rice all round till the top of the gallipot is
reached; smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, and stick the
apples into it in rows, one row sloping to the right and the next to
the left. Set it in the oven to colour the apples ; then, when required
for table, remove the gallipot, garnish the rice with preserved fruits,
and pour in the middle sufficient custard, made by recipe No. 1423, to
be level with the top of the rice, and serve hot.

Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples ; f hour to simmer
the rice ; l hour to bake. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from July to March.

APPLES A LA PORTUGAISE.

1398. Ingredients. — 8 good boiling apples, i pint of water, 6 oz.
of sugar, a layer of apple marmalade No. 1395, 8 preserved cherries,
garnishing of apricot jam.

Mode. — Peel the apples, and, with a vegetable-cutter, push out the

702

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

cores ; boil them in the above proportion of sugar and water, without
being too much done, and take care they do not break. Have ready
a white apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395 ; cover the bottom
of the dish with this, level it, and lay the apples in a sieve to di’ain ;
pile them neatly on the marmalade, making them high in the centre,
and place a preserved cherry in the middle of each. Garnish with strips
of candied citron or apricot jam, and the dish is ready for table.

Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.

Average cost, Is. 3 d.

Sufficient for 1 entremets. Seasonable from July to March.

APPLES IN RED JELLY.

( A 'pretty Slipper Dish.)

1399. Ingredients. — 6 good-sized apples, 12 cloves, pounded sugar,
1 lemon, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of gelatine, a few drops
ofprepared cochineal.

Mode. — Choose rather large apples : peel them and take out the
cores, either with a scoop or a small silver knife, and put into each
apple 2 cloves and as much sifted sugar as they will hold. Place
them, without touching each other, in a large pie-dish; add more
white sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, and 2 teacupfuls of water. Bake
in the oven, with a dish over them, until they are done. Look at
them frequently, and, as each apple is cooked, place it in a glass
dish. They must not be left in the oven after they are done, or
they will break, and so would spoil the appearance of the dish.
When the apples are neatly arranged in the dish without touching
each other, strain the liquor in which they have been stewing, into a
lined saucepan ; add to it the rind of the lemon, and a tablespoonful
of gelatine which has been previously dissolved in cold water, and,
if not sweet, a little more sugar, and 6 cloves. Boil till quite clear ;
colour with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and strain the jelly
through a double muslin into a j ug ; let it cool a little ; then pour it
into the dish round the apples. When quite cold, garnish the tops of
the apples with a bright-coloured marmalade, a jelly, or the white of
an egg, beaten to a strong froth, with a little sifted sugar.

Time.— From 30 to 50 minutes to bake the apples.

Average cost, Is., with the garnishing.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from July to March.

APPLES AND RICE.

{A Plain Dish.)

1400. Ingredients. — 8 good-sized apples, 3 oz. of butter, the rind

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

703

of i lemon minced very fine, 6 oz. of rice, lj pint of milk, sugar to
taste, A teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, 6 tablespoonfuls of apricot jam.

Mode. — Peel the apples, halve them, and take out the cores ; put
them into a stewpan with the butter, and strew sufficient sifted sugar
over to sweeten them nicely, and add the minced lemon-peel. Stew
the apples very gently until tender, taking care they do not break.
Boil the rice, with the milk, sugar, and nutmeg, until soft, and,
when thoroughly done, dish it, piled high in the centre ; arrange the
apples on it, warm the apricot jam, pour it over the whole, and serve
hot.

Time. — About 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently ; about
f hour to cook the rice.

Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from J uly to March.

APPLE SNOW.

(A pretty Supper Dish.)

1401. Ingredients. — 10 good-sized apples, the whites of 10 eggs,
the rind of 1 lemon, A lb. of pounded sugar.

Mode. — Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and put them
into a saucepan with the lemon-peel and sufficient water to prevent
them from burning, — rather less than A pint. When they are tender,
take out the peel, beat them to a pulp, let them cool, and stir them
to the whites of the eggs, which should be previously beaten to a
strong froth. Add the sifted sugar, and continue the whisking until
the mixture becomes quite stiff ; and either heap it on a glass dish,
or serve it in small glasses. The dish may be garnished with pre-
served barberries, or strips of bright-coloured jelly ; and a dish of
custards should be served with it, or a jug of cream.

Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples.

Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient to till a moderate-sized glass dish.

Seasonable from July to March.

APPLE SOUPELE.

1402. Ingredients. — 6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, the rind of
<7 lemon, sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 6, l£ oz. of
butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of apple marmalade No. 1395.

Mode. — Boil the milk with the lemon-peel until the former is well
flavoured ; then strain it, put in the rice, and let it gradually swell
over a slow tire, adding sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. Then

704

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

crush the rice to a smooth pulp with the hack of a wooden spoon ;
line the bottom and sides of a round cake-tin with it, and put it into
the oven to set ; turn it out of the tin carefully, and he careful that
the border of rice is firm in every part. Mix with the marmalade the
beaten yolks of eggs and the butter, and stir these over the fire until
the mixture thickens. Take it off the fire ; to this add the whites of
the eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth ; stir all
together, and put it into the rice border. Bake in a moderate oven
for about £ hour, or until the souffle rises very light. It should be
watched, and served instantly, or it will immediately fall after it is
taken from the oven.

Time. — ^ hour. Average cost, Is. Get.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from July to March.

STEWED APPLES AUD CUSTARD.

( A pretty Dish for a Juvenile Supper.)

1403. Ingredients.— 7 good-sized apples, the rind of £ lemon or
4 cloves, i lb. of sugar, f pint of water, i pint of custard No. 1423.

Mode. — Pare and take out the cores of the apples, without dividing
them, and, if possible, leave the stalks on ; boil the sugar and water
together for 10 minutes ; then put in the apples with the lemon-rind
or cloves, whichever flavour may be preferred, and simmer gently
until they are tender, taking care not to let them break. Dish them
neatly on a glass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a
few minutes, let it cool a little ; then pour it over the apples. Have
ready quite 4 pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423 ; pour it round,
but not over, the apples when they are quite cold, and the dish is
ready for table. A few almonds blanched and cut into strips, and
stuck in the apples, would improve their appearance. — See coloured
plate Q, 1.

Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.

Average cost, Is.

Sufficient to fill a large glass dish. Seasonable from July to March.

APPLE TRIPLE.

(A Supper Dish.)

1404. Ingredients. — 10 good-sized apples, the rind of $ lemon,
6 oz. of pounded sugar, \ pint of milk, ■£ pint of cream, 2 eggs, whipped
cream.

Mode. — Peel, core, and cut the apples into thin slices, and put them
into a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of water, the sugar, and minced
lemon-rind. Boil all together until quite tender, and pulp the apples

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

705

through a sieve ; if they should not he quite sweet enough, add a
little more sugar, and put them at the bottom of the dish to form a
thick layer. Stir together the milk, cream, and eggs, with a little
sugar, over the fire, and let the mixture thicken, but do not allow it
to reach the boiling-point. When thick, take it off the fire ; let it cool
a little, then pour it over the apples. Whip some cream with sugar,
lemon-peel, &c., the same as for other trifles ; heap it high over the
custard, and the dish is ready for table. It may he garnished as
fancy dictates, with strips of bright apple jelly, slices of citron, &c.

Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples ; 10 minutes to
stir the custard over the fire.

Average cost, Is. 6c7.

Sufficient for a moderate-sized trifle.

Seasonable from July to March.

APRICOT CREAM.

1405. Ingredients. — 12 to 16 ripe apricots, i lb. of sugar, l lpint of
milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 1 oz. of isinglass.

Mode. — Divide the apricots, take out the stones, and boil them in a
syrup made with I lb. of sugar and | pint of water, until they form a
thin marmalade, which rub through a sieve. Boil the milk with the
other j lb. of sugar, let it cool a little, then mix with it the yolks of
eggs which have been previously well beaten ; put this mixture into
a jug, place this jug in boiling water, and stir it one way over the
Are until it thickens ; but on no account let it boil. Strain through a
sieve, add the isinglass, previously boiled with a small quantity of
water, and keep stirring it till nearly cold ; then mix the cream with
the apricots ; stir well, put it into an oiled mould, and, if convenient,
set it on ice ; at any rate, in a very cool place. It should turn out on
the dish without any difficulty.

Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes to boil the apricots. Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould.

Seasonable in August, September, and October.

Note. — In winter-time, when fresh apricots are not obtainable, a little jam
may bo substituted for them.

PLANC OP APRICOTS, or Compote of Apricots in a Raised Crust.

(Sweet Entremets.)

1406. Ingredients.— % lb. of short crust Ho. 1212, from 9 to 12
good-sized apricots, f pint of water, lb. of sugar.

Mode. — Make a short crust by recipe Ho. 1212, and line a mould
with it as directed in recipe Ho. 1391. Boil the sugar and wrater

2 z

700

MODERN nOUSEUOJ.D COOKERY.

together for 10 minutes; halve the apricots, take out the stones, and
simmer them in the syrup until tender ; watch them carefully, and
take them up the moment they are done, for fear they break. Ar-
range them neatly in the flanc or case ; boil the syrup until reduced
to a jelly, pour it over the fruit, and serve either hot or cold.
Greengages, plums of all kinds, peaches, &c., may be done in the same
manner, as also currants, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, &c. ;
but with the last-named fruits, a little currant-j uice added to them
will be found an improvement.

Time.— Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc, about 10 minutes to
simmer the apricots.

Average cost, l's. Q>d.

Sufficient for 1 entremets or side-dish.

Seasonable in July, August, and September.

ARROWROOT BLANC-MANGE.

(An inexpensive Supper Dish.)

1407. Ingredients. — 4 heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, l£ pint
of milk, 3 laurel-leaves or the rind of $ lemon, sugar to taste.

Mode. — Mix to a smooth batter the arrowroot with A pint of the
milk ; put the other pint on the fire, with laurel-leaves or lemon-peel,
whichever may be preferred, and let the milk steep until it is well
flavoured. Then strain the milk, and add it, boiling, to the mixed
arrowroot ; sweeten it with sifted sugar, and let it boil, stirring it all
the time, till it thickens sufficiently to come from the saucepan.
Grease a mould with pure salad-oil, pour in the blanc-mange, and
when quite set, turn it out on a dish, and pour round it a compote of
any kind of fruit, or garnish it with jam. A tablespoonful of brandy,
stirred in just before the blanc-mange is moulded, very much improves
the flavour of this sweet dish.

Time. — Altogether, A hour.

Average cost, 6 d. without the garnishing.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BLANC-MANGE.

(A Supper Dish.)

1408. Ingredients.— 1 pint of new milk, I3 oz. of isinglass, the
rind of | lemon, 3 lb. of loaf sugar, 10 bitter almonds, i oz. of sweet
almonds, 1 pint of cream.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

707

Mode.— Put the milk into a saucepan, with the isinglass, lemon-
rind, and sugar, and let these ingredients stand by the side of the tire
until the milk is well flavoured ; add the
almonds, which should be blanched and
pounded in a mortar to a paste, and let
the milk just boil up ; strain it through a
fine sieve or muslin into a jug, add the
cream, and stir the mixture occasionally
until nearly cold. Let it stand for a
few minutes, then pour it into the
mould, which should be previously oiled
with the purest salad.-oil, or dipped in
cold water. There will be a sediment
at the bottom of the jug, which must not be poured into the mould,
as, when turned out, it would very much disfigure the appearance of
the blanc-mange. This blanc-mange may be made very much richer
by using l| pint of cream, and melting the isinglass in 5 pint of
boiling water. The flavour may also be very much varied by adding
bay-leaves, laurel-leaves, or essence of vanilla, instead of the lemon-
rind and almonds. bToyeau, Maraschino, Cura^a, or any favourite
liqueur, added in small proportions, very much enhances the flavour of
this always favourite dish. In turning it out, just loosen the edges of
the blanc-mange from the mould, place a dish on it, and turn it
quickly over : it should come out easily, and the blanc-mange have a
smooth glossy appearance when the mould is oiled, which it frequently
has not when it is only dipped in water. It may be garnished as
fancy dictates.

Time. — About H hour to steep the lemon-rind and almonds in the
milk.

Average cost, with cream at Is, per pint, Is. Sd.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.

CHEAP BLAErC-MAETGE.

i4°9- Ingredients. — | lb. of sugar, 1 quart of milk, oz. of
isinglass, the rind of | lemon, 4 laurel-leaves.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients into a lined saucepan, and boil
gently until the isinglass is dis-
solved ; taste it occasionally, to as-
certain when it, is , sufficiently fla-
voured with the laurel-leaves; then
take them out, and keep stirring the
mixture over the fire for about

2 z 2

BLA5C-MANQE.

70S

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

10 minutes. Strain it through a fine sieve into a jug, and, when
nearly cold, pour it into a well-oiled mould, omitting the sediment at
the bottom. Turn it out carefully on a dish, and garnish with
preserves, bright jelly, or a compote of fruit.

Time. — Altogether, § hour. Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.

BREAD-AND-BUTTER FRITTERS.

1410. Ingredients.— Batter, 8 slices of bread and butter, 3 or 4
tablespoonful? of jam.

Mode. — Make a batter, the same as for apple fritters No. 1393 ; cut
some slices of bread and butter, not very thick ; spread half of them
with any jam that may he preferred, and cover with the other slices ;
slightly press them together, and cut them out in square, long, or
round pieces. Dip them in the batter, and fry in boiling lard for
about 10 minutes ; drain them before the fire on a piece of blotting-
paper or cloth. Dish them, sprinkle over sifted sugar, and serve.

Time. — About 10 minutes.

Average cost. Is.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at aDy time..

TO MAKE THE STOCK FOR JELLY, AND TO CLARIFY IT.

1411. Ingredients. — 2 calf’s feet, 6 .pints of water.

Mode.— The stock for jellies should always be made the day before
it is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can
be so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set.
Procure from the butcher’s 2 nice calf’s feet; scald them, to take off

JELLY-MOULD. JELLY-BAG.

the hair ; slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws,
and wash the feet well in warm water ; put them into a stewpan, with
the above proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

709

remove every particle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed,
boil it very gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced
rather more than half ; then strain it through a sieve into a basin,
and put it in a cool place to set. As the liquor is strained, measure
it, to ascertain the proportion for the jelly, allowing something for
the sediment and fat at the top. To clarify it, carefully remove all
the fat from the top, pour over a little warm water, to wash away any
that may remain, and wipe the jelly with a clean cloth ; remove the
jelly from the sediment, put it into a saucepan, and, supposing the
quantity to be a quart, add to it 6 oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and
well- whisked whites of 5 eggs, and stir these ingredients together
cold ; set the saucepan on the fire, but do not stir the jelly after it
begins to warm. Let it boil about 10 minutes after it rises to a head,
then throw in a teacupful of cold water ; let it boil 5 minutes longer,
then take the saucepan off, cover it closely, and let it remain | hour
near the fire. Dip the jelly-bag into hot water, wring it out quite
dry, and fasten it on to a stand or the back of a chair, which must
be placed near the fire, to prevent the jelly from setting before it has
run through the bag. Place a basin underneath to receive the jelly ;
then pour it into the bag, and should it not be clear the first time,
run it through the bag again. This stock is the foundation of all
really good jellies, which may be varied in innumerable ways, by
colouring and fiayouring with liqueurs, and by moulding it with-fresh
and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly being firm when turned out,
i oz. of isinglass clarified might be added to the above proportion of
stock. Substitutes for calf’s feet are now frequently used in making
jellies, whichlessen the expense and trouble in preparing this favourite
dish ; isinglass and gelatine being two of the principal materials
employed ; but, although they may look as nicely as jellies made from
good stock, they are never so delicate, having very often an un-
pleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue, particularly when made
with gelatine.

Time.— About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock ; to clarify it,—
4 hour to boil, 4 hour to stand in the saucepan covered.

Average cost.— Calf’s feet may be purchased for 6 d. each when veal
is in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce.

Sufficient. — 2 calf’s feet should make 1 quart of stock.

Seasonable from March to October, but may be had all the year.

How TO MAKE a Jelly-bag.— The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for
ironing-blankets, is tbe best material for a jelly -bag : those of home manufacture are the
only ones to be relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly. Care should be taken that
the seam ot the bag bo Stitched twice, to secure it against unequal nitration. The mo3t
convenient mode of using the bag is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside
ot its mouth ; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it at equal distances. The

710

modem; household cookery.

jolly -bag may, of course, be made any size ; but ono.of twelve or fourteen jnehe- deep
and seven or eight across the mouth, wall be sufficient for ordinary use The form of a
jelly-bag is the tool’s cap.

COW-HEEL STOCH FOE JELLIES.

( More Economical than Calf's Feel.)

1412. Ingredients. — 2 cow-heels, 3 quarts of water.

Mode. — Procure 2 heels that have only been scalded, and not boiled ;
split them in two, and remove the fat between the claws ; wash them
well in warm water, and put them into a saucepan with the above
proportion of cold water ; bring; it gradually to boil, remove all the
scum as it rises, and simmer the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or
until the liquor is reduced one-lialf ; then strain it into a basin, mea-
suring the quantity, and put it in a cool place. Clarify it in the same
manner as calf s-feet stock No. 1411, using, with the other ingredients,
about | oz. of isinglass to each quart. This stock should be made the
day before it is required for use. Two dozen shank-bones of mutton,
boiled for 6 or 7 hours, yield' a quart of strong firm stock. They
should be put on in 2 quarts of water, which should be reduced one-
half. Make this also the day before it is required.

Time— 7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil the
shank-bones.

Average cost , from -id. to 6 d. each.

Sufficient. — 2 cow-heels should make 3 pints of stock.

Seasonable at any time.

ISINGLASS OB GELATINE JELLT.

(Substitutes for Calf s Feet.)

14 > 3- Ingredients. — 3 oz. of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water.

Mode. — Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above
proportion of cold water ; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil very
fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. Carefully remove the scum
as it rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready for
use. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through a
fine sieve, instead of being run through a bag. Rather more than £ oz.
of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong
calf’s-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz. for the same quantity of
fruit juice. As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it
is difficult to give the exact proportions. The larger the mould, the
stiffer should be the jelly ; and where there is no ice, more isinglass
must be used than if the mixture were frozen. This forms a stock for
all kinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways.

Time. — H hour.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

711

Sufficient, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c., to fill two moderate-sized
moulds.

Seasonable at any time.

iV- ate. — The above, when boiled, slioufd bo perfectly clear, and maybe mixed
warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c., and then run through the bag.

Isixglass.— The best isinglass is brought from Russia ; some of an inferior kind is
brought from North and South America and the blast Indies : the several varieties may
be had from the wholesale dealers in isinglass in London. In choosing isinglass for
domestic use, select that which is whitest, has no unpleasant odour, and which dissolves
most readily in water. The inferior kinds are used for lining beer, and similar purposes.
Isinglass is much adulterated : to test its purity, take a few threads of the substance,
drop some into boiling water, some into cold water, and some into vinegar. In the
boiling water the isinglass will dissolve, in cold water it will become white ana “ cloudy,”
and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. If the isinglass is adulterated with
gelatine (that is to say, the commoner sorts of gelatine, — forismglass is classed amongst
gelatiues, of all which varieties it is the very purest and best), in boiling water the gelatine
will not so completely dissolve as the isinglass; in cold water it becomes clear and jelly-
like ; and in vinegar it will harden.

HOW TO MOTJLD BOTTLED JELLIES.

14H- Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until
the jelly is reduced to a liquid state ; taste it, to ascertain whether it
is sufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly
into moulds which have been soaked in water ; let it set, and turn it
out by placing the mould in hot water for a minute then wipe the
outside, put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. The jelly
should then slip easily away from the , mould, and be quite firm. It
may be garnished as taste dictates.

TO CLABIEY SYEUP FOB JELLIES.

1415. Ingredients.— To every quart of water allow 2 lbs. of loaf
sugar ; the white of 1 egg.

Mode. — Put the sugar and water into a stewpan- ; set it on the fire,
and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the white of the egg, whipped
up with a little water. Whisk the whole well together, and simmer
very gently until it has thrown up all the scum. Take this off as it
rises, strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin, and
keep it for use.

CALF’S -FEET JELLY.

1416. ' Ingredients.— 1 quart of calf’s-feet stock STo. 1411, A lb. of
sugar, 4 pint of sherry, I glass of brandy, the shells and whites of
•5 eggs, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, -J-oz. of isinglass.

Mode.— Prepare the stock as directed in recipeNo. 1411, taking care

712

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

to leave the sediment, and to remove all the fat from the surface.

I at it into a saucepan, cold, without
clarifying it ; add the remaining ingre-
dients, and stir them well together be-
fore the saucepan is placed on the fire.
Then simmer the mixture gently for
-t hour, but do not stir it after it begins
to warm. Throw in a teacupful of cold
water, boil for another 5 minutes, and
keep the saucepan covered by the side of
the fire for about £ hour, but do not let it
boil again. In simmering, the head or
scum may be carefully removed as it rises ;
but particular attention must be given to the jelly, that it be not
stirred in the slightest degree after it is heated. The isinglass should
be added when the jelly begins to boil : this assists to clear it, and
makes it firmer for turning out. Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water ;
fasten it on to a stand, or the back of a chair ; place it near the fire
with a basin underneath it, and run the jelly through it. Should it
not be perfectly clear the first time, repeat the process until the
desired brilliancy is obtained. Soak the moulds in water, drain them
for half a second, pour in the jelly, and put it in a cool place to set.
If ice is at hand, surround the moulds with it, and the jelly will set
sooner, and be firmer when turned out. In summer it is necessary to
have ice in which to put the moulds, or the cook will be, very likely,
disappointed, by her jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out
properly, unless a great deal of isinglass is used. When wanted for
table, dip the moulds in hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with
a cloth, lay a dish on the top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and
the jelly should slip out easily. It is sometimes served broken into
square lumps, and piled high in glasses. Earthenware moulds are
preferable to those of pewter or tin, for red jellies, the colour and trans-
parency of the Composition being often spoiled by using the latter.

To make this jelly more economically, raisin wine may be substi-
tuted for the sherry and brandy, and the stock made from cow-heels,
instead of calf’s feet.

Time. — 20 minutes to simmer the jelly, & hour to stand covered.

Average cost, reckoning the feet at 6 d. each, 3s. 6 d.

Sufficient to fill two l|-pint moulds. Seasonable at any time.

jTote. — As lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liablo to make tho jelly
muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the other ingredients. Omit
tho brandy when the flavour is objected to.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

723

Sherry. — There are several lauds of sherry, as pale and brown, and there arc various
de-rees of each. Sherry is, in general, of an amber-colour, and, when good, has a line
aromatic odour, with something of the agreeable bitterness of the peach kernel. When
new, it is harsh and fiery, and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or live years.
Sherry has of late got much into fashion in England, from the idea that it is more free
from acid than other wines ; but some oareful experiments on wines do not fully confirm
this opinion.

CAMELONS, or FRIED PUFFS.

(Sweet Entremets.)

1417. Ingredients. — f lb. of puff-paste No. 1205; apricot, or any
kind of preserve that may be preferred ; hot lard.

Mode. — Cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin,
with jam inclosed, and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs, make
a very pretty and elegant dish. Make some good puff-paste, by re-
cipe No. 1205; roll it out yery thin, and cut it into pieces of an equal
size, about 2 inches wide and 8 inches long ; place upon each piece a
spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the
paste over twice ; slightly press the edges together, that the jam may
not escape in the frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in
boiling lard until of a nice brown, letting them remain by the side of
the fire after they are coloured, that the paste may be thoroughly
done. Drain them before the fire, dish on a d’oyley, sprinkle over
them sifted sugar, and serve. These cannelons are very delicious made
with fresh instead of preserved fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries,
or currants : it should be laid in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar
sprinkled over, and folded and fried in the same manner as stated above.

Time. — About 10 minutes. Average cost , Is.

Sufficient, — f lb. of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons.

Seasonable, with jam, at any time.

CHABLOTTE-AUX-POMME S.

1418. Ingredients. — A few slices of rather stale bread l2 inch
thick, clarified butter, apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with
about 2 dozen apples, f glass of sherry.

Mode.— Cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plain
round mould, which has been well buttered, and a few strips the
height of the mould, and about if inch wide ;
dip the bread in clarified butter (or spread it
with cold butter, if not wanted quite so rich) ;
place the round piece at the bottom of the
mould, and set the narrow strips up the sides
of it, overlapping each other a little, that no
juice from the apples may escape, and that cnAItLOTTi:-Avx-poxRrEs.
they may hold firmly to the mould. Brush the interior over with

714

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

white of egg (this will assist to make the ease firmer); fill it with
apple marmalade' made by recipe No. 1395, with the addition of a
little sherry, and cover them with a round piece of bread, also brushed
over with egg, the same as the bottom ; slightly press the bread down,
to make it adhere to the other pieces ; put a plate onthe-top, and bake
the charlotte in a brisk oveD, of a light colour. Turn it out on the
dish, strew sifted sugar over the top, and pour round it a little melted
apricot jam.

L Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average cost , Is. 9c/.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from July to March.

AN EASY METHOD OE MAKING A CHARLOTTE-
AUX-POMMES.

i4'9- Ingredients.— | lb. of flour, \ lb. of butter, \ lb. of powdered
sugar, ? teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 egg, milk, 1 glass of raisin-
wine, apple marmalade No. 1395, j pint of cream, 2 dessertspoonfuls
of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.

Mode.— Make a cake with the flour, butter, sugar, and baking-
powder ; moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the proper
consistency, and bake it in a round tin. When cold, scoop out the
middle, leaving a good thickness all round the sides, to prevent
them breaking ; take some of the scooped-out pieces, which should
be trimmed into neat slices ; lay them in the cake, and pour over
sufficient raisin- wine, with the addition of a little brandy, if approved,
to soak them well. Have ready some apple marmalade, made by
recipe No. 1395 ; place a layer of this over the soaked cake, then a
layer of cake and a layer of apples ; whip the cream to a froth, mixing
with it the sugar and lemon-juice ; pile it on the top of the charlotte,
and garnish it with pieces of clear apple jelly. This dish is served
cold, but may be eaten hot, by omitting the cream, and merely
garnishing the top with bright jelly just before it is sent to table.

Time. — 1 hour to bake the cake. Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for -5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from July to March.

A VERY SIMPLE APPLE CHARLOTTE.

1420. Ingredients. — 9 slices of bread and butter, about 6 good-sized
apples, 1 tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonluls of juice,
moist sugar to taste.

Mode. — Butter a pie-dish ; place a layer of bread and butter, with-
out the crust, at the bottom ; then a layer of apples, pared, cored, and
cut into thin slices ; sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel
and juice, and sweeten with moist sugar. Place another layer of

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

715

bread and butter, and then one of apples, proceeding in this manner
until the dish is full ; then cover it up with the peel of the apples, to
preserve the top from browning or burning ; bake in a brisk oven for
rather more than f hour; turn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle sifted
sugar over, and serve.

Time. — $ hour. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from J uly to March.

CHARLOTTE RTJSSE.

(An Elegant Sweet Entremets.)

1421. Ingredients. — About 18 Savoy biscuits, f pint of cream, fla-
vouring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar,
i oz. of isinglass. > ■

Mode. — Procure about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladies’-fingers, as they
are sometimes called ; brush the edges of them with the white of an
egg, and line the bottom of a plain round mould, placing them like a
star or rosette. Stand them upright all round the edge ; carefully put
them so closely together that the white of the egg connects them
firmly, and place, this case in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to
dry the egg. Whisk the cream to a stiff froth, with the sugar, fla-
vouring, and melted isinglass ; fill the charlotte with it, cover with a
slice of sponge-cake cut in the shape of the mould ; place it in ice;
where let it remain till ready for table ; then turn it on a dish, remove
the mould, and serve. 1 tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind, of 4 table-
spoonfuls of wine, would nicely flavour the above proportion of cream.
For arranging the biscuits in the mould, cut them to the shape
required, so that they fit in nicely, and level them with the mould
at the top, that, when turned out, there may be something firm to
rest upon. Great care and attention is required in the turning out of
this dish, that the cream does not burst the case ; and the edges
of the biscuits must have the smallest quantity of egg brushed over
them, or it<wrould stick to the mould, and so prevent the charlotte
from coming away properly.

Time. — 5 minutes in the oven.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 1 charlotte. Seasonable at any time.

CREAM -A LA VALOIS.

M22- Ingredients. — 4 sponge-cakes, jam, § pint of cream, sugar
to taste, the juice of ^ lemon, £ glass of sherry, l| oz. of isinglass.

Mode.— Cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices ; place two together,
with preserve between them, and pour over them a small quantity of
sherry mixed with a little brandy. Sweeten and flavour the cream

716

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

with the lemon-juice and sherry ; add the isinglass, which should be
dissolved in a little water, and beat up the cream well. Place a little
in an oiled mould ; arrange the pieces of cake in the cream ; then fill
the mould with the remainder ; let it cool, and turn it out on a dish.
By oiling the mould, the cream will have a much smoother appearance,
and will turn out more easily than when merely dipped in cold water.

Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient to fill a l|-pint mould. Seasonable at any time.

BOILED CUSTARDS.

1423. Ingredients.— 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz. of loaf sugar,
3 laurel-leaves, or the rind of i lemon, or a few drops of essence of
vanilla, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

Mode. — Put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and
whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred (the lemon- rind

flavours custards most delici-
ously), and let the milk steep
by the side of the fire until it is
well flavoured. Bring it to the
point of boiling, then strain it
into a basin ; whisk;) the eggs well, and, when the milk has cooled a
little, stir in the eggs, and strain this mixture into a jug. Place this
jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire ; keep stirring the
custard- qne way until it thickens ; but on no account allow it to
reach the boiling-point, as it will instantly curdle and be full of
lumps. Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy, and, when this is
well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses, which should be
rather more than three-parts full; grate a little nutmeg over the
top, and the dish is ready for table. To make custards look and eat
better, ducks’ eggs should be used, when obtainable ; they add very
much to7 the flavour and richness, and so many are not required as of
the ordinary eggs, 4 ducks’ eggs to the pint of milk making a deli-
cious custard. When desired extremely rich and good, cream should
be' substituted for the milk, and double the quantity of eggs used, to
those mentioned, omitting the whites.

Time— l hour to infuse the lemon-rind, about 10 minutes to stir
the custard. Average cost, Sd.

Sufficient to fill 8 custard-glasses. Seasonable at any time.

CUSTARDS IN’ CLASSES.

GINGER APPLES.

(ff pretty Supper or Dessert Dish.)

1424. Ingredients. — 1£ oz. of whole ginger, £ pint of whiskey,
3 lbs. of apples, 2 lbs. of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

717

Mode. — Bruise the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour over sufficient
whiskey to cover it, and let it remain ior 3 days ; then cut the apples
into thin slices, after paring and coring them ; add the sugar and the
lemon-juice, which should be strained; and simmer all together very
gently until the apples are transparent, but not broken. Serve cold,
and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or preserved
ginger.

Time— 3 days to soak the ginger ; about % hour to simmer the apples
very gently.

Average cost, 2s. Qd.

Sufficient for 3 dishes. Seasonable from July to March.

FRENCH PANCAKES.

1425. Ingredients. — 2 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar,
2 oz. of flour, i pint of new milk.

3 lode. — Beat the eggs thoroughly, and put them into a basin with
the butter, which should be beaten to a cream ; stir in the sugar and
flour, and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the milk ; keep
stirring and beating the mixture for a few minutes ; put it on buttered
plates, and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with a cut
lemon and sifted sugar, or pile the pancakes high on a dish, with a
layer of preserve or marmalade between each.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average cost, Id.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time,

DUTCH FLUMMERY.

1426. Ingredients. — 1| oz. of isinglass, the rind and juice of 1
lemon, 1 pint of water, 4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, or raisin-
wine ; sifted sugar to taste.

Mode. — Pqt the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind into a lined sauce-
pan, and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved ; strain this
into a basin, stir' in the eggs, which should be well beaten, the lemon-
juice, which should be strained, and the wine ; sweeten to taste with-
pounded sugar, mix all well together, pour it into a jug, set this jug
in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and keep stirring it one
way until it thickens ; but take care that it does not boil. Strain it
into a mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time,
and put it in a cool place to set. A tablespoonful of brandy stirred
in just before it is poured into the mould, improves the flavour of this
dish : it is better if made the day before it is required for table.

Time.—\ hour to simmer the isinglass ; about I hour to stir the-
mixture over the fire.

71S

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Average cost, 2s., if made with sherry ; loss' with raisin-wine.

Sufficient to till a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.

Pale Shekbibs are made from the same grapes as brown. The latter are coloured |
by ail addition of some cheap must, or wine which has been boiled till it has acquired a !
deep-brown tint. Palo sherries were, some time ago, preferred in England, being sup-
posed most pure ; but the brown are preferred by many people. The inferior sherries
exported to Encland are often mixed with a cheap and liglit wine called liloguer, and |
are strengthened in the making by brandy ; but too frequently they are adulterated by the
London dealers.

CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE.

1427. Ingredients. — 4 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1
teaspoonful of flour, 3 oz. of the best chocolate.

Mode. — Break the eggs, .separating the whites from the yolks, and i
put them into different basins ; add to the yolks the sugar, flour, and :
chocolate, which should be very finely grated, and stir these ingre- :
dients for 5 minutes. Then well whisk the whites of the eggs in ;
the other basin, until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix lightly with .
the yolks, till the whole forms a smooth and light substance ; butter a
round cake-tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven
from 15 to 20 minutes. Pin a white napkin round the tin, strew
sifted sugar over the top of the souffle, and send it immediately to
table. The proper appearance of this dish depends entirely on the
expedition with which it is served, and some cooks, to preserve its
lightness, hold a salamander over the souffle until it is placed on the
table. If allowed to stand after it comes from the oven, it will be |
entirely spoiled, as it falls almost immediately.

Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for a moderate-sized souffle. Seasonable at any time.

DAEIOLES A LA VANILLE".

( Sweet Entremets.)

1428. Ingredients.— * pint of milk, h pint of cream, 2 oz. of flour,

3 oz. of pounded sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, puff-paste, flavouring
of essence of vanilla.

Mode. — Mix the flour to a smooth batter, with the milk ; stir in the .
cream, sugar, the eggs, which should he well whisked, and the butter, “
which should be beaten to a cream. Put in some essence of vanilla,
drop by drop, until the mixture is well flavoured ; line some dariole- r
moulds with puff-paste, three-parts fill them with the batter, and
hake in a good oven from 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the !
moulds on a dish, without breaking them ; strew over sifted sugar,
and serve. The flavouring of the dariolcs may be varied by substi-
tuting lemon, cinnamon, or almonds, for the vanilla.

Time.— 25 to 35 minutes. Average cost, Is. 8 cl.

Sufficient to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds. Seasonable at any time.

CP. SAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

719-

CUEEANT FRITTERS.

1429. Ingredients. — -1- pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4
eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, 3 tablespoonfuls of currants,
sugar to taste, a very little grated nutmeg, hot lard or clarified
dripping.

Mode. — Put the milk into a basin with the flour, which should
previously be rubbed to a smooth batter with a little eoldunilk ; stir
these ingredients together; add the well- whisked, eggs, the rice,
currants, sugar, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture for a few minutes,,
and, if not sufficiently thick, add a little more boiled rice ; drop it, in
small quantities, into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping ; fry
the fritters a nice brown, and, when done, drain them on a piece,
of blotting-paper, before the fire. Pile them on a white d’oyley,
strew over sifted sugar, and serve them very hot. Send a cut lemon
to table with them.

Time. — From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters.

. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

CHOCOLATE CREAM.

1430. Ingredients.— 3 oz. of grated chocolate, \ lb. of sugar, if
pint of cream, l| oz. of clarified isinglass, the yolks of 6 eggs.

Mode. — Beat the yolks of the eggs well ; put them into a basin with
the grated chocolate, the sugar, and 1 piut of the cream ; stir these
ingredients well together, pour them
into a jug, and set this jiig in a sauce-
pan of boiling water ; stir it one way
until the mixture thickens, but do not
allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Strain
the cream through a sieve into a basin;
stir in the isinglass and the other i-
pint of cream, which should be well
whipped ;, mix all well together, and
pour it into a mould which has been
previously oiled with the purest salad-oil, and, ‘if at hand, set it in
ice until wanted for table.

Time. — About 10 minutes to stir the mixture over the fire.

Average cost, 3s., with cream at Is. per pint.

. Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.'

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

7-0

GENEVA WAFERS,

1431. Ingredients.— 2 eggs, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of
pounded sugar.

Mode— Well whisk the eggs ; put them into a basin, and stir to
them the butter, which should be beaten to a cream ; add the
flour and sifted sugar gradually, and then mix all well together.
Butter a balcing-sheet, and drop on it a teaspoonful of the mixture at
a time, leaving a space between each. Bake in a cool oven ; watch the
pieces of paste, and, when half done, roll them up like wafers, and
put in a small wedge of bread or piece of wood, to keep them in shape.
Return them to the oven until crisp. Before serving, remove the
bread, put a spoonful of preserve in the widest end, and fill up with
whipped cream. This is a very pretty and ornamental dish for the
supper-table, and is very nice and very easily made.

Time. — Altogether 20 to 25 minutes.

Average cost, exclusive of the preserve and cream, Id.

Sufficient for a nice-sized dish. Seasonable at any time.

GINGER CREAM.

1432. Ingredients.— The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of
preserved ginger, 2 dessertspoonfuls of syrup, sifted sugar to taste,
1 oz. of isinglass.

Mode. — Slice the ginger finely ; put it into a basin with the syrup,
the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and the cream ; mix these ingredients
well together, and stir them over the fire for about 10 minutes, or
until the mixture thickens ; then take it off the fire, whisk till nearly
cold, sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, which should be melted and
strained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. It may be garnished
with slices of preserved ginger or candied citron.

Time. — About 10 minutes to stir the cream over the fire.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, 2s. 3d.

Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Seasonable at any time.

Preserved Ginger comes to us from tlie West Indies. It is made by scalding the
roots when they are green and full of sap, then peeling them in cold water, and putting
them into jars, with a rich syrup ; in which state we receive them. It should be chosen 01
a bright-yellow colour, with a little transparency : what is dark-coloured, fibrous, and
stringy, is not good. Ginger roots, fit for preserving, and in size equal to \Y est Indian,
have neon produced in the Royal Agricultural Garden in Edinburgh.

TO MAKE GOOSEBERRY EOOL.

1433. Ingredients. — Green gooseberries ; to every pint of pulp
add 1 pint of milk, or $ pint of cream and 3 pint of milk ; sugar
to taste.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

721

Mode. — Cut the tops and tails off the gooseberries ; put them into a
jar, with 2 tablespoonfuls of water and a little good moist sugar; set
this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil until the fruit
is soft enough to mash. When done enough, beat it to a pulp, work
this pulp through a colander, and stir to every pint the above pro-
portion of milk, or equal quantities of milk and cream. Ascertain if
the mixture is sweet enough, and put in plenty of sugar, or it will
not be eatable ; and in mixing the milk and gooseberries, add the
former very gradually to these : serve in a glass dish, or in small
glasses. This, although a very old-fashioned and homely dish, is,
when well made, very delicious, and, if properly sweetened, a very
suitable preparation for children.

Time. — From f to 1 hour. Average cost, 6 d. per pint, with milk.

Sufficient. — A pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry pulp for 5 or 6
•children.

Seasonable in May and June.

GOOSEBERRY TRIELE.

1 434. Ingredients. — 1 quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, 1 pint
•of custard No. 1423, a plateful of whipped cream.

Mode. — Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient moist sugar
to sweeten them, and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Pat this
pulp at the bottom of a trifle-dish ; pour over it a pint of custard made
by recipe No. 1423, and, when cold, cover with whipped cream. The
cream should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it
will then be so much firmer and more solid. The dish may be gar-
nished as fancy dictates.

Time. — About f hour to boil the gooseberries.

Average cost, is. 6f7.

Sufficient for 1 trifle. Seasonable in May and June.

INDIAN FRITTERS.

1435- Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, boiling water, the
yolks of 4 eggs, the whites of 2, hot lard or clarified dripping, jam.

Mode. — Put the flour into a basin, and pour over it sufficient boiling
water to make it into a stiff paste, taking care to stir and beat it
well, to prevent it getting lumpy. Leave it a little time to cool, and
then break into it {without beating them at first) the yolks of 4 eggs
and the whites of 2, and stir and beat all well together. Have ready
some boiling lard or butter ; drop a dessertspoonful of batter in at a
time, and fry the fritters of a light brown. They should rise so much
as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful of preserve

3 A

722

MODERN IlOCSEHOLD COOKERY.

or marmalade dropped in between each fritter. This is an excellent
dish for a hasty addition to dinner, if a guest unexpectedly arrives,
it being so easily and quickly made, and it is always a great
favourite.

Time. — From 5 to 8 minutes to fry the fritters.

Average cost, exclusive of the jam, od.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

INDIAN TRIFLE.

1436. Ingredients. — 1 quart of milkj the rind of A large lemon,
sugar to taste, 5 heaped tablespoonfuls of rice-flour, 1 ,oz. of sweet
almonds, i pint of custard.

Mode. — Boil the milk and lemon-rind together until the former is
well flavoured ; take out the lemon-rind and stir in the rice-flour, which
should first be moistened with cold milk, and add sufficient loaf sugar
to sweeten it nicely. Boil gently for about 5 minutes, and keep the
mixture stirred ; take it off the fire, let it cool a little, and pour it
into a glass dish. When cold, cut the rice out in the form of a star,
or any other shape that may be preferred ; take out the spare rice,
and fill the space with boiled custard. Blanch and cut the almonds
into strips ; stick them over the trifle, and garnish it with pieces of
bright-coloured jelly, or preserved fruits, or candied citron.

Time. — j hour to simmer the milk, 5 mi-
nutes after the rice is added.

Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 1 trifle.

Seasonable at any tilne.

The Citeon belongs to the same species as the lemon, ;
being considered only as a variety, the distinction be-
tween them not being very great. It is larger, and is-
less succulent, but more acid : with a little artificial heat,
the citron comes to as great perfection in England as in
Spain and Italy. The fruit is oblong, and about five or
six inches in length. The tree is thorny. The juice
forms an excellent lemonade with sugar and water ; its
uses in punch, negus, and in medicine, are well known.
The rind is very thick, and, when candied with sugar,
forms an excellent sweetmeat. There are several varieties
cultivated in England, one of which is termed the For- i
the citeon. bidden Fruit.

ITALIAN CREAM.

1437. Ingredients.— i pint of milk, i pint of cream, sugar to
taste, 1 oz. of isinglass, 1 lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs.

Mode. — Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, with sugar to
sweeten, and the lemon-rind. Boil until the milk is well flavoured ;

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

723

then strain it into a basin, and add the beaten yolks of eggs. Pat
this mixture into a jug ; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water
over the lire, and stir the contents until they thicken, but do not allow
them to boil. Take the cream off the fire, stir in the lemon -juice and
isinglass, which should be melted, and whip well ; fill a mould, place
it in ice if at hand, and, when set, turn it out on a dish, and garnish
as taste 'may dictate. The mixture may be whipped and drained, and
then put into small glasses, when this mode of serving is preferred.

Time. — From 5 to 8 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug.

Average cost, with the best isinglass, 2s. Gd.

Sufficient to fill 1 A -pint mould. Seasonable at any time.

THE HIDDEN MOUNTAIN.

( A lyetty Supper Dish.)

1438. Ingredients. — 6 eggs, a few slices of citron, sugar to taste,
5 pint of cream, a layer of any kind of jam.

Mode. — Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately ; then mix
them and beat well again, adding a few thin slices of citron, the
•cream, and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten it nicely. When the
mixture is well beaten, put it into a buttered, pan, and fry the same
as a pancake ; but it should be three times the thickness of an ordi-
nary pancake. Cover it with jam, and garnish with slices of citron
and holly-leaves. This dish is served cold.

Time. — About 10 minutes to fry the mixture.

Average cost, with the jam, Is. 4 d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

♦

JAUNEMANGE.

1439. Ingredients. — 1 oz. of isinglass, 1 pint of water, f pint of
white wine, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, the
yolks of 6 eggs.

Mode. — Put the isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a saucepan,
and boil gently until the former is dissolved ; then add the strained
lemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole
nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and add
the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten ; place the jug in a
saucepan of boiling water ; keep stirring the mixture one, way until it
thickens, but do not allow it to boil ; then take it off the fire, aid keep
stirring until nearly cold. Pour it into a mould, omitting the sedi-
ment at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain until quite firm.

3 a 2

724

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time— l hour to boil the isinglass and water ; about 10 minutes to
Btir the mixture in the jug.

Average cost, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.

JELLY MOULDED WITH FRESH FRUIT, or MACEDOINE

DE FRUITS.

1440. Ingredients.— Rather more than U pint of jelly, a few nice
strawberries, or red or white currants, or raspberries, or any fresh
fruit that may he in season.

Mode. — Have ready the above proportion of jelly, which must be
very clear and rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an additional,
quantity of sugar. Select ripe, nice-looking fruit ; pick off the stalks, .
Unless currants are used, when they are laid in the jelly as they come

from the tree. Begin by putting a
little jelly at the bottom of the.
mould, which must harden; them
arrange the fruit round the sides ,
of the mould, recollecting that it
icill be reversed when turned out
then pour in some more jelly to
make the fruit adhere, and, when':
that layer is set, put another row of fruit and jelly until the
mould is full. If convenient, put it in ice until required for table,
then wring a cloth in boiling water, wrap it round the mould foi
a minute, and turn the jelly carefully out. Peaches, apricots,
plums, apples, &c., are better for being boiled in a little clear syruj
before they are laid in the jelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes
cherries, and currants are put in raw. In winter, when fresh fruit'
are not obtainable, a very pretty jelly may be made with preserver
fruits or brandy cherries : these, in a bright and clear jelly, have
a very pretty effect; of course, unless the jelly be very clear, thol
beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It may be garnished with the sam
fruit as is laid in the jelly ; for instance, an open jelly with straw I
berries might have, piled in the centre, a few of the same fruit prettil;
arranged, or a little whipped cream might be substituted for the fruit

Time— One layer of jelly should remain 2 hours in a very cool place i
before another layer is added. Average cost, 2s. 0>d.

Sufficient, with fruit, to fill a quart mould.

Seasonable, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried, s||
any time.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

725

JELLY OE TWO COLOURS.

1441. Ingredients.— H pint of calf’s-feet jelly No. 1416, a few
drops of prepared cochineal.

Mode. — Make 1-1 pint of jelly by recipe No. 1416, or, if wished more
economical, of clarified syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in any way
that may be preferred. Colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops of
prepared cochineal, and the other half leave as pale as possible. Have
ready a mould well wetted in every
part ; pour in a small quantity of the
red jelly, and let this set ; when quite
Arm, pour on it the same quantity of
the pale jelly, and let this set; then
proceed m this manner until the mould jelly of two coloubs.
is full, always taking care to let one

jelly set before the other is poured in, or the colours would run one
into the other. When turned out, the jelly should have a striped
appearance. For variety, half the mould may be filled at once with
one of the jellies, and, when firm, filled up with the other : this, also,
has a very pretty effect, and is more expeditiously prepared than when
the jelly is poured in small quantities into the mould. Blancmange and
red jelly, or blancmange and raspberry cream, moulded in the above
manner, look very well. The layers of blancmange and jelly should
be about an inch in depth, and each layer should be perfectly hard-
ened before another is added. Half a mould of blancmange and
-half a mould of jelly are frequently served in the same manner. A
few pretty dishes may be made, in this way, of jellies or blancmanges
left from the preceding day, by melting them separately in a jug
placed in a saucepan of boiling water, and then moulding them by
the foregoing directions. (See coloured plate Si.)

Time. — § hour to make the jelly.

Average cost, with calf’s-feet jelly, 2s. ; with gelatine and syrup,
more economical.

Sufficient to fill l l-pint mould. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — In making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, or the
-colour will bo too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly.

LEMON BLANCMANGE.

1442. Ingredients.— 1 quart of milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 3 oz. of
'ground rice, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, l| oz. of fresh butter, the rind of
1 lemon, the juice of 2, £ oz. of gelatine.

726

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — Make a custard with the yolks of the eggs and h pint of the
milk, and, when done, put it into a basin ; put half the remainder of
the milk into a saucepan with the ground
rice, fresh butter, lemon-rind, and 3 oz. of the
sugar, and let these ingredients boil until the
mixture is stiff, stirring them continually ;
when done, pour it into the bowl where the
custard is, mixing both well together. Put
the gelatine with the rest of the milk into a
saucepan, and let it stand by the side of the
fire to dissolve ; boil for a minute or two, stir
carefully into the basin, adding 3 oz. more of
■When cold, stir in the lemon-juice, which should be

ELANCMANGE MOULD.

pounded sugar.

carefully strained, and pour the mixture into a well-oiled mould,
leaving out the lemon-peel, and set the mould in a pan of cold water
until wanted for table. Use eggs that have rich-looking yolks ; and,
should the Weather be very warm, rather a larger proportion of gela
tine must be allowed.

Time. — Altogether, l hour. Average cost, Is. 6d.

Sufficient to till 2 small moulds. Seasonable at any time.

• f

LEMON CREAM.

1443. Ingredients.— 1 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, \ lb. of
white sugar, 1 large lemon, 1 oz. of isinglass.

Mode. — Put the cream into a lined saucepan with the sugar, lemon-
peel, and isinglass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about

10 minutes, stirring them all the time.
Strain the cream into a jug, add the I
yolks of eggs, which should be well!
beaten, and put the jug into a sauce- -
pan of boiling water ; stir the mixture j
one way until it thickens, but do not r
allow it to boil ; take it off the fire,
and keep stirring it until nearly cold.
Strain the lemon-juice into a basin,
lemon-cream mould. gradually pour on it the cream, and

stir it well until the juice is well mixed with it. Have ready a well-
oiled mould, pour the cream into it, and let it remain until perfectly
set. When required for table, loosen the edges with a small blunt !
knife, put a dish on the top of the mould, turn it over quickly, and l
the cream should easily slip away.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

727

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the cream ; about 10 minutes to stir it
over the fire in the jug.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, and the best isinglass, 2s. 6 cl.

Sufficient to fill l£-pint mould. Seasonable at any time.

ECONOMICAL LEMON CREAM.

1444. Ingredients. — 1 quart of milk, 8 bitter almonds, 2 oz. of
gelatine, 2 large lemons, 3 lb. of lump sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs.

Mode. — Put the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds, which
should be well pounded in a mortar, the gelatine, lemon-rind, and
lntrip sugar, and boil these ingredients for about 5 minutes. Beat up
the yolks of the eggs, strain the milk into a jug, add the eggs, and
pour the mixture backwards and forwards a few times, until nearly
cold ; then stir briskly to it the lemon-juice, which should be strained,
and keep stirring until the cream is almost cold : put it into an oiled
mould, and let it remain until perfectly set. The lemon-juice must
not be added to the cream when it is warm, and should be well stirred
after it is put in.

Time. — 5 minutes to boil the milk. Average cost, 2s. 5d.

Sufficient to fill two lA-pint moulds. Seasonable at any time.

LEMON CREAMS.

. {Very good.)

1445. (Ihgeedientsx.— 1 pint of cream, 2 dozen sweet almonds, 3
glasses of sherry, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste.

Mode. — Blanch and chop the almonds, and put them into a jug
with the cream ; in another jug put the sherry, lemon-rind, strained
juice, and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour
rapidty from one jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed ;
then pour it into jelly-glasses, omitting the lemon-rind. This is a
very cool and delicious sweet for summer, and may be made less rich
by omitting the almonds and substituting orange or raisin wine for
the sherry.

Time. — Altogether, \ hour.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, 3s.

Sufficient to fill 12 glasses. Seaso?iable at any time.

LEMON CREAMS OR CUSTARDS.

•

1446- Iugbedients. — 5 oz. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of boiling 'water,
the rind of 1 lemon and the juice of 3, the yolks of 8 eggs.

Mode. — Make a quart of lemonade in the following manner : — Dis-
solve the sugar in the boiling water, having previously, with part of

728

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

tho sugar, rubbed, off the lemon-rind, and add the strained juice.
Strain the lemonade into a saucepan, and add the yolks of the eggs,
which should be well beaten ; stir this one way over the fire until the
mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, and serve in custard-
glasses, or on a glass dish. After the boiling water is poured on the
sugar and lemon, it should stand covered for about £ hour before the
eggs are added to it, that the flavour of the rind may be extracted.

Time. — A hour to make the lemonade ; about 10 minutes to stir the.
custard over the fire.

Average cost, Is.

Sufficient to fill 12 to 14 custard-glasses. Seasonable at any time.

LEMON JELLY.

1447- Ingredients. — 6 lemons, ^lb. of lump sugar, 1 pint of water,
lj oz. of isinglass, \ pint of sherry.

Mode. — Peel 3 of the lemons, pour § pint of boiling water on the
rind, and let it infuse for £ hour ; put the sugar, isinglass, and
£ pint of water into a lined saucepan, and boil these ingredients
for 20 minutes ; then put in the strained lemon-juice, the strained
infusion of the rind, and bring the whole to the point of boiling;
skim well, add the wine, and run the jelly through a bag; pour it
into a mould that has been wetted or soaked in water ; put it in
ice, if convenient, where let it remain until required for table. Pre-
viously to adding the lemon-juice to the other ingredients, ascertain
that it is very nicely strained, as, if this is not properly attended,
to, it is liable to make the jelly thick and muddy. As this jelly is
very pale, and almost colourless, it answers very well for moulding,
with a jelly of any bright hue ; for instance, half a jelly bright red,
and the other half made of the above, would have a very good effect-
Lemon jelly may also be made with calf’s-feet stock, allowing the
juice of 3 lemons to every pint of stock.

Time. — Altogether, 1 hour.

Average cost, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9 <7.

Sufficient to till lf-pint mould. Seasonable at any time.

LEMON SPONGE.

1448. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of isinglass, if pint of water, f lb. of
pounded sugar, the juice of 5 lemons, the rind of 1, the whites of 3 eggs.

Mode. — Dissolve the isinglass in the water, strain it into a sauce-
pan, and add the sugar, lemon-rind, and juice. Boil the whole from
10 to 15 minutes ; strain it again, and let it stand till it is cold and
begins to stiffen. Beat the whites of the eggs, put them to it, and

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, BTC.

729

whisk the mixture till it is quite white ; put it into a mould which
has been previously wetted, and let it remain until perfectly set ;
then turn it out, and garnish it according to taste.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. A verage cost, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6 d.

Sufficient to till a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.

LIQUEUR JELLY.

1449. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of lump sugar, 2 oz. of isinglass, if pint
of water, the juice of 2 lemons, { pint of liqueur.

Mode. — Put the sugar, with 1 pint of the water, into a stewpan, and
boil them gently by the side of the fire until there is no scum remain-
ing, which must be carefully re-
moved as fast as it rises. Boil the
isinglass with the other A pint of
water, and skim it carefully in the
same manner. Strain the lemon-
juice, and add it, with the clarified
isinglass, to the syrup ; put in the
liqueur, and bring the whole to the
boiling-point. Let the saucepan
remain covered by the side of the
fire for a few minutes ; then pour the jelly through a bag, put it into
a moul^l, and set the mould in ice until required for table. Dip the
mould in hot water, wipe the outside, loosen the jelly by passing a
knife round the edges, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Noyeau,
Maraschino, Cura9oa, brandy, or any kind of liqueur, answers for
this jelly ; and, when made with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usually
prepared as directed above.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the sugar and water.

Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6 d.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.

A SWEET DISH OF MACARONI.

'1450. Ingredients. — 4- lb. of macaroni, lj pint of milk, the rind,
of h lemon, 3 oz. of lump sugar, f pint of custard Ko. 1423.

Mode.— Put the milk into a saucepan, with the lemon-peel and.
sugar ; bring it to the boiliDg-point, drop in the macaroni, and let it
gradually swell over a gentle fire, but do not allow the pipes to break.
The form should be entirely preserved ; and, though tender, should be.
firm, and not soft, with no part beginning to melt. Should the milk,
dry away before the macaroni is'sufnciently swelled, add a little more-
Make a custard by recipe No. 1423 ; place the macaroni on a dish, and

700

MODERN IIOUSEIIOLD CG0XEU7.

pour tlic custard over the hot xuacaroui ; grate over it a little nut-
meg, and, when cold, garnish the dish with slices of candied citron.

Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes to swell the macaroni.

Average cost, with the custard, Is.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

MERINGUES.

M5i. Ingredients.— \ lb. of pounded sugar, the whites of 4
eggs.

Mode. — Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and, with a
wooden spoon, stir in quickly the pounded sugar ; and have some boards
thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues

from acquiring too much colour. Cut some
strips of paper about 2 inches wide ; place
this paper on the board, and drop a table-
spoonful at a time of the mixture on the
paper, taking care to let all the meringues
be the same size. In dropping it from the
spoon, give the mixture the form of an egg,
and keep the meringues about 2 inches
apart from each other on the paper. Strew
over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a
moderate oven for \ hour. As soon Us they
begin to colour, remove them from the oven' ; take each slip of paper
by the two ends, and turn it gently on the table, and, with a small
spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue. Spread some clean
paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down, and put them
into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. When required
for table, fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur or
vanilla, and sweetened with pounded sugar. Join two of the merin-
gues together, and pile them high in the dish, as shown in the annexed
drawing. To vary their appearance, finely-chopped almonds or cur-
rants ma.y be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over ;
and they may be garnished with any bright-coloured preserve. Great
•expedition is necessary in making this sweet dish ; as, if the me-
ringues are not put into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are
mixed, the former melts, and the mixture would run on the paper,
instead of keeping its egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are
made, the crisper will they be ; but, if there is not sufficient sugar
mixed with them, they will most likely be tough. They are some-
times coloured with cochineal ; and, if kept well covered in a dry
place, will remain good for a month or six week?.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

731

Time. — Altogether, about l- hour.

Average cost, with the creard and flavouring, Is.

Sufficient to make 2 dozen meringues. Seasonable at any time.

UOYBAU CREAM.

1452. Ingredients. — ll oz. of isinglass, the juice of 2 lemons, noyeau
and pounded sugar to taste, 1-& pint of cream.

Mode. — Dissolve the isinglass iu a little boiling water, add the
lemon-juice, and strain this to the cream, putting in sufficient noyeau
and sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely ; whisk the cream
well, put it into an oiled mould, and set the mould in ice or in a cool
place ; turn it out, and garnish the dish to taste.

Time. — Altogether, h hour.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint and the best isinglass, 4s.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.

OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.

(A very pretty dish.)

1453. Ingredients. — li pint of jelly, § pint of cream, 1 glass of
sherry, sugar to taste.

Mode. — Make the above proportion of calf’s-feet or isinglass jelly,
colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred ; soak
a mould, open in the centre, for
about i hour in cold water fill it
with the jelly, and let it remain
in a cool place until perfectly set ;
then turn it out on a dish ; fill the
centre with whipped cream, fla-
voured with sherry and sweetened
with pounded sugar ; pile this
cream high in the centre, and °pe.y jellt with whipped cream.

serve. The jelly should be made of rather a dark colour-, to contrast
nicely with the cream.

Time.— hour. Average cost, 3s. 6 d.

Sufficient to fill U-pint mould. Seasonable at any time.

ORANGE JELLY.

1454. Ingredients.— 1 pint of water, H to 2 oz. of isinglass, lb.
of loaf sugar, l Seville orange, 1 lemon, about 9 China oranges.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. Put the water into a saucepan, witli the isinglass, sugar,
and the rind of 1 orange, and the same of J lemon, and stir these over

the fire until the isinglass is dissolved,
and remove the scum; then add to
this the juice of the Seville orange, the
juice of the lemon, and sufficient juice
of China oranges to make in all 1 pint :
from 8 to 10 oranges will yield the de-
sired quantity. Stir all together over
the fire until it is just on the point of
boiling ; skim well ; then strain the jelly
through a very fine sieve or jelly-bag, and when nearly cold, put it
5 nto a mould previously wetted, and, when quite set, turn it out on a
dish, and garnish it to taste. To insure this jelly being clear, the
orange- and lemon-juice should be well strained, and the isinglass
clarified, before they are added to the other ingredients, and, to
heighten the colour, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added.

Time.— 5 minutes to boil without the juice ; 1 minute after it is
added.

Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6 d.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable from November to May.

ORANGE JELLY MOULDED WITH SLICES OF
ORANGE.

1455. Ingredients.— I* pint of orange jelly No. 1454, 4 oranges,

pint of clarified syrup.

Mode. — Boil i lb. of loaf sugar with a pint of water until there is
no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises), and
carefully peel the oranges ; divide them into thin slices, without
breaking the thin skin, and put these pieces of orange into the syrup,
where let them remain for about 5 minutes ; then take them out, and
use the syrup for the jelly, which should be made by recipe No. 1454.
When the oranges are well drained, and the jelly is nearly cold, pour
■a little of the latter into the bottom of the mould ; then lay in a few
pieces of orange ; over these pour a little jelly, and when this is set, place
another layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner until the mould
is full. Put it in ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning it out,
wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two, which has been
wrung out in boiling water.

Time. — 5 minutes to simmer the oranges. Average cost, 3s. 6 d.

Sufficient, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mould.

Seasonable from November to May.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

733

TO MAKE A PLAIN OMELET.

1456. Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 1 saltspoonlul oi salt, -a- saltspoonful of
pepper, 5 lb. of butter.

Mode— Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3, and
beat them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light ; then
add 2 oz. of the butter broken into small

pieces, and stir this into the mixture. Put .

the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying-
pan, make' it quite hot, and, as soon as it

F ’ , , , , , . , .. o OMELET.

begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, Ac. very

briskly for a minute or two, and pour them into the pan ; stir the
omelet with a spoon one way until the mixture thickens and be-
comes firm, and when the whole is set, fold the eijges over, so that
the omelet assumes an oval form ; and when it is nicely brown on
one side, and quite firm, it is done. To take oft the rawness on
the upper side, hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two,
and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve very expe-
ditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it is just wanted-
The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by adding
minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese, allowing
1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of the latter, to
the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be added :
the latter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded and cut
into small pieces. In making an omelet, be particularly careful that
it is not too thin, and, to avoid this, do not make it in too large a
frying-pan, as the mixture would then spread too much, and taste of
the outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt, or too much done,
and should be cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole of the substance
may be heated without drying up the outside. Omelets are sometimes
served with gravy ; but this should never he poured over them, but
served in a tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy
and flat, instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy, the
flavour should not overpower that of the omelet, and should be thick-
ened with arrowroot or rice flour.

Time— With 6 eggs, in a frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to
6 minutes. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

HAM OMELET.

(A delicious Breakfast Dish.)

1 457 • Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, i saltspoonful of pepper,
2 tablespoonfuls of minced ham.

fJO 1 St

io± m

MODERN noCJSEIIOLD COOKERY.

M&de. Minco the liam very finely, without any fat, and fry it for
2 minutes in a little butter; then make the batter for the omelet, stir
in the ham, and proceed as directed in recipe No. 1456. Do not add
any salt to the hatter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart
a flavour to the omelet. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally
well for this dish ; but they must also be slightly cooked previously
to mixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without
gravy.

Time. — From 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

KIDNEY OMELET.

(.4 favourite French dish.)

1458. Ingredients.— 6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, % saltspoonful of
pepper, 2 sheep’s kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney,

f -5 oz. of butter.

Mode. — Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them
in a frying-pan, in 1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes.

Mix the ingredients for the omelet the
same as in recipe No. 1456, and when the
eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces
of kidney. Make the butter hot in the
frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in
the omelet, and fry it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When
the eggs are set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval
form, and be careful that it is not too much done : to brown the top,
hold the pan before the fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander
until the1 desired colour is obtained, but never turn an omelet in the
pan. Slip it carefully on to a very hot dish, or, what is a much safer
method, put a dish on the omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It
should be served the instant it comes from the fire.

Time. — 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

TO MAKE A PLAIN- SWEET OMELET.

1459. Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar.

Mode. — Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3 ;

whisk them well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. of the butter, which
should be broken into small pieces, and stir all these ingredients well
together. Make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-
pan, and when it commences to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. Keep
stirring them until they begin to set; then turn the edges of the

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

735

omelet over, to make it an oval shape, and finish cooling it. To brown
the top, hold the pan before the fire, or use a salamander, and turn it
carefully on to a very hot dish : sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve.

Time.— From 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, 10 d.

Sufficient for 4 persons* Seasonable at any time.

OMELETTE AU5 COEEITTJBES, or JAM OMELET.

1460. Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of
apricot, strawberry, or any jam that may be preferred.

Mode. — Make the omelet by recipe No. 1459, only instead of doubling
it over, leave it fiat in the pan. When qqite firm, and nicely brown
Qn one side, turn it carefully on to a hot dish, spread over the middle
of it the jam, and fold the omelet over on each side ; sprinkle sifted
sugar over, and serve very quickly. A pretty dish of small omelets
may be made by dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying
them separately ; they should then be spread each one with a different
kind of preserve, and the omelets rolled over. Always sprinkle sweet
omelets with sifted sugar before being sent to table.

Time. — 4 to 6 minutes. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

OMELETTE SOUFFLE.

1461 • Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 5 oz. of pounded sugar, flavouring of
vanilla, orange-flower water, or lemon-rind, 3 oz. of butter, 1 dessert-
spoonful of rice-flour.

Mode. — Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, add to the
former the sugar, the rice-flour, and either of the above flavourings
that may he preferred, and stir these ingredients well together. Whip
the whites of the eggs, mix them lightly with the batter, and put the
butter into a small frying-pan. As soon as it begins to bubble, pour the
hatter into it, and set the pan over a bright hut gentle fire ; and when
the omelet is set, turn the edges over to make it an oval shape, and
slip it on to a silver dish, which has been previously well buttered.
Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to 15 minutes ; sprinkle finely-
powdered sugar over the souffle, and serve it immediately.

Time. — About 4 minutes in the pan ; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes.

Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BACHELOR’S OMELET.

1462. Ingredients.— 2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, i teacupful of milk.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

736'

Mode. Make a thin cream of the flour and milk ; then beat up the
eggs, mix all together, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of
cayenne. Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, and, when very hot,
pour in the batter. Let the pan remain for a few minutes over a
clear fire ; then sprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a
few shreds of onion ; double the omelet dexterously, and shake it
out of the pan on to a hot dish. A simple sweet omelet can be made
by the same process, substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped
herbs.

Time— 2 minutes. Average cost, 6 d.

Sufficient for 2 persons. Seasonable at any time.

ORANGE CREAM.

1463. Ingredients. — 1 oz. of isinglass, 6 large oranges, 1 lemon,
sugar to taste, water, ls pint of good cream.

Mode. — Squeeze the juice from the oranges and lemon ; strain it,
and put it into a saucepan with the isinglass, and sufficient water to

make in all I3 pint. Rub the sugar on
the orange and lemon-rind, add it to
the other ingredients, and boil all to-
gether for about 10 minutes. Strain
through a muslin bag, and, when cold,
beat up with it A pint of thick cream.
Wet a mould, or soak it in cold water ;
pour in the cream, and put it in a cool place to set. If the weather
is very cold, 1 oz. of isinglass will be found sufficient for the above
proportion of ingredients.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the juice and water.

Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable from November to May.

OPEN MOULD.

ORANGE CREAMS.

1464. Ingredients.— 1 Seville orange, 1 tablespoonful of brandy,
5 lb. of loaf sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream.

Mode. — Boil the rind of the Seville orange until tender, and beat it
in a mortar to a pulp ; add to it the brandy, the strained juice of the
orange, and the sugar, and beat all together for about 10 minutes,
adding the well-beaten yolks of eggs. Bring the cream to the boiling-
point, and pour it very gradually to the other ingredients, and beat
the mixture till nearly cold ; put it into custard-cups, place the cups
in a deep dish of boiling water, where let them remain till quite cold.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

Take the cups out of the water, wipe them, and garnish the tops of
the creams with candied orange-peel or preserved chips.

Time. — Altogether, j hour.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, Is. 7 d.

Sufficient to make 7 or 8 creams.

Seasonable from November to May.

Note. — To render this dish more economical, substitute milk for the cream,
but add a small pinch of isinglass to make the creams firm.

Seville Orange (Citrus vulgaris). — This variety, called also bitter orange, is of the same
species ns the sweet orange, and grows in great abundance on the banks of the Guadal-
quiTer, in Andalusia, whence this fruit is chiefly obtained. In that part of Spain there
are very extensive orchards of these oranges, which form the chief wealth of the
monasteries. The pulp of the bitter orange is not eaten raw. In the yellow rind,
separated from the white spongy substance immediately below it, is contained an
essential oil, which is an agreeable warm aromatic, much superior for many purposes to
that of the common orange. The best marmalade and the richest wine are made from
this orange ; and from its flowers the best orange-flower water is distilled. Seville
oranges are also preserved whole as a sweetmeat.

OSAH GE PRITTERS.

1465. Ingredients. — For the batter, i lb. of flour, i oz. of butter,
f saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, oranges, hot lard or clarified
dripping.

Mode. — Make a nice light batter with the above proportion of flour,
butter, salt, eggs, and sufficient milk to make it the proper consist-
ency ; peel the oranges, remove as much of the white skin as possible,
and divide each orange into eight pieces, without breaking the thin
skin, unless it be to remove the pips ; dip each piece of orange in the
batter. Have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping ; drop
In the oranges, and fry them a delicate brown from. 8 to 10 minutes.
When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to
drain away the greasy moisture, and dish them on a white d’oyley ;
sprinkle over them plenty of pounded sugar, and serve quickly.

Time.—S to 10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to drain
them.

Average cost, Qcl.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from November to May.

A PRETTY DISH OP ORANGES.

1466. Ingredients— 6 large oranges, £ lb. of loaf sugar, 5 pint of
water, \ pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of any kind of liqueur, sugar
to taste.

Mode. — Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and boil them
until the sugar becomes brittle, which may be ascertained by taking
up a small quantity in a spoon, and dipping it in cold water ; if the

738

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

sugar is sufficiently boiled, it will easily snap. Peel the oranges,
remove as much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into
nice-sized slices, without breaking the thin white skin which sur-
rounds the juicy pulp. Place the pieces of orange on small skewers,
dip them into the hot sugar, and arrange them in layers round a plain
mould, which should be well oiled with the purest salad-oil. The
sides of the mould only should be lined with the oranges, and the
centre left open for the cream. Let the sugar become firm by cooling ;
turn the oranges carefully out on a dish, and fill the centre with
whipped cream, flavoured with any kind of liqueur, and sweetened
with pounded sugar. This is an exceedingly ornamental and nice dish
for the supper-table.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the sugar. Average cost , Is. 8(7.

Sufficient for 1 mould. Seasonable from November to Hay.

TO MAKE PANCAKES.

1467- Ingredients. — Eggs, flour, milk ; to every egg allow 1 oz.
of flour, about 1 gill of milk, £ saltspoonful of salt.

Mode. — Ascertain that the eggs are fresh ; break each one separately
in a cup ; whisk them well, put them into a basin, with the flour, salt,
and a few drops of milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly smooth
batter ; then add by degrees the remainder of the milk. The propor-
tion of this latter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the
eggs, &c. &c. ; but the batter, when ready for frying, should be of
the consistency of thick cream. Place a small frying-pan on the fire

to get hot ; let it be delicately clean, or the
pancakes will stick, and, when quite hot,
put into it a small piece of butter, allowing
about £ oz. to each pancake. When it is
melted, pour in the batter, about £ teacupful
to a pan 5 inches in diameter, and fry it for about 4 minutes, or until
it is nicely brown on one side. By only pouring in a small quantity
of batter, and so making the pancakes thin, the necessity of turning
them (an operation rather difficult to unskilful cooks) is obviated.
When the pancake is done, sprinkle over it some pounded sugar, roll
it up in the pan, and take it out with a large slice, and place it on
a dish before the fire. Proceed in this manner until sufficient are
cooked for a dish ; then send them quickly to table, and continue to
send in a further quantity, as pancakes are never good unless eaten
almost immediately they come from the frying-pan. The batter may be
flavoured with a little grated lemon-rind, or the pancakes may have
preserve rolled ia them instead of sugar. Send sifted sugar and a cut

PANCAKES.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

739

lemon to table with them. To render the pancakes very light, the
yolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately, and the
whites added the last thing to the batter before frying.

Time. — From 4 to 5 minutes for a pancake that does not require
turning ; from 6 to 8 minutes for a thicker one.

Average cost, for 3 persons, Gd.

Sufficient.— Allow 3 eggs, with the other ingredients in proportion,
for 3 persons.

Seasotiable at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.
RICHER PAH CAKES.

1468. Ingredients.— 6 eggs, 1 pint of cream, J lb. of loaf sugar,
1 glass of sherry, J teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, flour.

Mode. — Ascertain that the eggs are extremely fresh, beat them well,
strain and mix with them the cream, pounded sugar, wine, nutmeg,
and as much flour as will make the batter nearly as thick as that for
ordinary pancakes. Make the frying-pan hot, wipe it with a clean
cloth, pour in sufficient batter to make a thin pancake, and fry it for
about 5 minutes. Dish the pancakes piled one above the other, strew
sifted sugar between each, and serve.

Time. — About 5 minutes.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, 2s. 3d.

Sufficient to make 8 pancakes.

Seasonable at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.

PEACH FRITTERS.

1469. Ingredients— For the batter : Jib. of flour, i oz. of butter,
i saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk ; — peaches, hot lard or clarified
dripping.

Mode. — Make a nice smooth batter in the same manner as directed
in recipe hTo. 1393, and skin, halve, and stone the peaches, which
should be quite ripe ; dip them in the batter, and fry the pieces in
hot lard or clarified dripping, which should be brought to the boiling-
point before the peaches are put in. From 8 to 10 minutes will be
required to fry them, and, when done, drain them before the fire, and
dish them on a white d’oyley. Strew over plenty of pounded sugar,
and serve.

Time. F rom 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters, 5 minutes to drain
them. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in July, August, and September.

3 b 2

7-:o

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOHEllV.

Peach. — The pencil and nectarine are amongst the most delicious of our fruits, and
are considered as varieties of the same species produced by cultivation. The former is

characterized by a very delicate down, while the latter
is smooth ; but, as a proof of their identity as to spe-
cies, trees have borne peaches in one part and necta-
rines in another ; and even a single fruit has had down
on one side and the other smooth. The trees are almost
exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that
the peaeli was originally brought from Persia, where it
grows naturally, from which the name of Persica was
bestowed upon it by the Homans; and some modern
botanists apply this as the generic name, separating
them from Ami/gdalus, or Almond, to which Linnaeus
had united them. Although they are not tropical, they
require a great deal of warmth to bring them to perfec-
tion ; hence they seldom ripen in this country, in ordi-
nary seasons, without the use of walls or glass ; conse-
quently, they bear a high price. In a good peach, the
flesh is firm, the skin thin, of a deep bright colour next
the sun, and of a yellowish green next to the wall ; the
pulp is yellowish, full of highly-flavoured juice, the fleshy
part thick, and the stone small. Too much down is a sign of inferior quality. This fruit
is much used at the dessert, and makes a delicious preserve.

PEARS A L’ALLEMANDE.

1470. Ingredients.— 6 to 8 pears, water, sugar, 2 oz. of butter, the
yolk of an egg, i oz. of gelatine.

Mode. — Peel and cut the pears into any form that may be pre-
ferred, and steep them in cold water to prevent them turning black ;
put them into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, and
boil them with the butter and enough sugar to sweeten them nicely,
until tender ; then brush the pears over with the yolk of an egg,
sprinkle them with sifted sugar, and arrange them on a dish. Add
the gelatine to the syrup, boil it up quickly for about o minutes,
strain it over the pears, and let it remain until set. The syrup may
be coloured with a little prepared cochineal, which would very much
improve the appearance of the dish.

Time. — From 20 minutes to h hour to stew the pears ; 5 minutes to
boil the syrup.

Average cost, Is. 3 d.

Sufficient for a large dish.

Seasonable from August to February.

MOULDED PEARS.

1471. Ingredients. — 4 large pears or 6 small ones, 8 cloves, sugar
to taste, water, a small piece of cinnamon, i pint of raisin wine, a
strip of lemon-peel, the juice of s lemon, i oz. of gelatine.

Mode. — Peel and cut the pears into quarters ; put them into a jar
with x pint of water, cloves, cinnamon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten
the whole nicely ; cover down the top of the jar, and bake the pears in

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

741

a gentle cVen until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break.
When done, lay the pears in a plain mould, which should be well
wetted, and boil J pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with the
wine, lemon-peel, strained juice, and gelatine. Let these ingredients
boil quickly for 5 minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears ;
put the mould in a cool place, and when the jolly is firm, turn it out
on a glass dish.

Time.— 2 hours to bake the pears in a cool oven.

Average cost, Is. 3 cl.

Sufficient for a quart mould. Seasonable from August to February .

PINEAPPLE FRITTERS.

{An elegant Dish.)

1472. Ingredients. — A small pineapple, a small wineglassful of
brandy or liqueur, 2 oz. of sifted sugar ; batter as for apple fritters
Iso. 1393.

Mode. — This elegant dish, although it may appear extravagant, is
really not so if made when pineapples are plentiful. We receive them
now in such large quantities from the TV est Indies, that at times they
may be purchased at an exceedingly low rate : it would not, of course,
be economical to use the pines which are grown in our English pineries
for the purposes of fritters. Pare the pine with as little waste as
possible, cut it into rather thin slices, and soak these slices in the above
proportion of brandy or liqueur and pounded sugar for 4 hours ; then
make a batter the same as for apple fritters, substituting cream for
the milk, and using a smaller quantity of flour ; and, when this is
ready, dip in the pieces of pine, and fry them in boiling lard from 5 to
8 minutes ; turn them when sufheiently brown on one side, and, when
done, drain them from the lard before the fire, dish them on a white
d’oyley, strew over them sifted sugar, and serve quickly.

Time. — 5 to 8 minutes.

Average cost, when cheap and plentiful, Is. 6 d. for the pine.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable in July and August.

Pineapple. — The pineapple has not been known in Europe above two hundred years,
and has not been cultivated in England much above a century. It is stated that the first
pineapples raised in Europe were by M. La Cour, of Leyden, about the middle ol' the
17th century ; and it is said to have been first cultivated in England by Sir Matthew
Decker, of Richmond. In Kensington Palace, there is a picture in which Charles II. is
represented as receiving a pineapple from his gardener Rose, who is presenting it on
'his knees.

PLAIN FRITTERS.

1473- Ingredients. — 3 oz. of flour, 3 eggs, ^ pint of milk.

Mode. — Mix the flour to a smooth batter with a small quantity of
the milk ; stir in the eggs, which should be well whisked, and then

742

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

the remainder of the milk ; beat the whole to a perfectly smooth
bather, and should it be found not quite thin enough, add two or

tablespoonful at a time of the batter, and fry the fritters a nice brown,
turning them when sufficiently cooked on one side. Drain them well
from the greasy moisture by placing them upon a piece of blotting-
paper before the fire ; dish them on a white d’oyley, sprinkle over
them sifted sugar, and send to table with them a cut lemon and
plenty of pounded sugar.

Time.— From 6 to 8 minutes. Average cost, id.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

T474. Ingredients. — 2 large potatoes, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of
cream, 2 ditto of raisin or sweet wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-
juice, i teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, hot lard.

Mode. — Boil the potatoes, and beat them up lightly with a fork, but
do not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat the eggs
well, leaving out one of the whites ; add the other ingredients, and
beat all together for at least 20 minutes, or until the batter is ex-
tremely light. Put plenty of good lard into a frying-pan, and drop
a tablespoonful of the batter at a time into it, and fry the fritters a
nice brown. Serve them with the following sauce : — A glass of sherry
mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, and sufficient white sugar

d’oyley, and pounded sugar sprinkled over them ; and they should
be well drained on a piece of blotting-paper before the lire pre-
viously to being dished.

Time. — From 6 to 8 minutes. Average cost, 9(7.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

STAB rEITTBK-itOULD.

three tobkspconfuls
more milk. Have
ready a frying-pan,
with plenty of boil-
ing lard in it ; drop
in rather more than a

POTATO FRITTERS.

to sweeten the whole
nicely. Warm these
ingredients, and serve
the sauce separately
in a tureen. The frit-
ters should be neatly
dished on a white

SCEOLI, ntlTTEIl-MOCLD.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

743

RASPBERRY CREAM.

1475. Ingredients.— 3 pint of milk, § pint of cream, l£ oz. of
isinglass, raspberry jelly, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

Mode. — Boil the milk, cream, and isinglass together for \ hour, or
until the latter is melted, and strain it through a hair sieve into a
basin. Let it cool a little ;• then add
to it sufficient raspberry jelly, which,
when melted, would make ^ pint, and
stir well till the ingredients are tho-
roughly mixed. If not sufficiently
sweet, add a little pounded sugar with
the brandy ; whisk the mixture well
until nearly cold, put it into a well-
oiled mould, and set it in a cool place
till perfectly set. Raspberry jam may
be substituted for the j elly, but must be melted, and rubbed through a
sieve, to free it from seeds : in summer, the juice of the fresh fruit
may be used, by slightly mashing it with a wooden spoon, and
sprinkling sugar over it ; the juice that flows from the fruit should
then be used for mixing with the cream. If the colour should not be
very good, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added to improve
its appearance. ( See coloured plate T 1.)

Time. — \ hour to boil the cream and isinglass.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, and the best isinglass, 3s.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould.

Seasonable, with jelly, at any time.

Note. — Strawberry cream may be made in precisely the same manner, sub-
stituting strawberry jam or jelly for the raspberry.

BASPBEEBX-CEEAM MOULD.

RICE BLANCMANGE.

1476. Ingredients. — \ lb. of ground rice, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 oz.
of fresh butter, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of lemon-peel, essence of
almonds or vanilla, or laurel-leaves.

Mode. — Mix the rice to a smooth batter with about \ pint of the
milk, and the remainder put into a saucepan, with the sugar, butter ,-
and whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred ; bring the
milk to the boiling-point, quickly stir in the rice, and let it boil for
about 10 minutes, or until it comes easily away from the saucepan,
keeping it well stirred the whole time. Grease a mould with pure
salad-oil ; pour in the rice, and let it get perfectly set, when it should
turn out quite easily ; garnish it with jam, or pour round a compote of

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERT.

any kind of fruit, just before it is sent to table. This blancmange is
better for being made the day before it is wanted, as it then has time
to become firm. If laurel-leaves are used for flavouring, steep 3 of
them in the milk, and take them out before the rice is added : about
S drops of essence of almonds, or from 12 to 16 drops of essence of
vanilla, would be required to flavour the above proportion of milk.

Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes to boil the rice.

Average cost, 9 cl.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould. Seasonable at any time.

BICE CBOQ,UETTES.

1477- .Ingredients. — i lb. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 6oz. of pounded
sugar, flavouring of vanilla, lemon-peel, or bitter almonds, egg and
bread crumbs, hot lard.

Mode. — Put the rice, milk, and sugar into a saucepan, and let the
former gradually swell over a gentle fire until all the milk is dried
up ; and just before the rice is done, stir in a few drops of essence of
any of the above flavourings. Let the rice get cold ; then form it into-
small round balls, dip them into yolk of egg, sprinkle them with bread
crumbs, and fry them in boiling lard for about 10 minutes, turning
them about, that they may get equally browned. Drain the greasy
moisture from them, by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for
a minute or two ; pile them on a white d’oyley, and send them quickly
to table. A small piece of jam is sometimes introduced into the
middle of each croquette, which adds very much to the flavour of this
favourite dish.

Time. — From $ to 1 hour to swell the rice ; about 10 minutes to fry
the croquettes.

Average cost, 10 d.

Sufficient to make 7 or 8 croquettes. Seasonable at any time.

BICE EBITTEBS.

1478. Ingredients.— 6 oz. of rice,.l quart of milk, 3 oz. of sugar*
1 oz. of fresh butter, 6 oz. of orange marmalade, 4 eggs.

Mode. — Swell the rice in the milk, with the sugar and butter, over
a slow fire until it is perfectly tender, which will be in about hour..
When the rice is done, strain away the milk, should there be any left,
and mix with it the marmalade and well-beaten eggs ; stir the whole
, over the fire until the eggs are set ; then spread the mixture on a
dish to the thickness of about A inch, or rather thicker. "VY hen it is
perfectly cold, cut it into long strips, dip them in a batter the same

CREAMS; JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

745

as for apple fritters, and fry them a nice brown. Dish them on a white
d’oyley, strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly.

Time. — About 3 hour to swell the rice ; from 7 to 10 minutes to fry
the fritters.

Average cost , Is. 6 d.

Sufficient to make 7 or 8 fritters. Seasonable at any time.

RICE SNOWBALLS.

(A pretty dish for Juvenile Suppers.)

1479. Ingredients. — 6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of
essence of almonds, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard made by recipe
No. 1423.

Mode. — Boil the rice in the milk, with sugar and a flavouring of
essence of almonds, until the former is tender, adding, if necessary, a
little more milk, should it dry away too much. "When the rice is quite
soft, put it into teacups, or small round jars, and let it remain until
cold ; then turn the rice out on a deep glass dish, pour over a custard
made by recipe No. 1423, and, on the top of each ball place a small
piece of bright-coloured preserve or jelly. Lemon-peel or vanilla may
be boiled with the rice instead of the essence of almonds, when either
of these is preferred ; but the flavouring of the custard must corre-
spond with that of the rice.

Time.— About f hour to swell the rice in the milk.

Average cost, with the custard, Is. 6 cl.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 children. Seasonable at any time.

RICE SOUFFLE.

1480: Ingredients. — 3 tablespoonfuls of ground rice, 1 pint of
milk, 5 eggs, pounded sugar to taste, flavouring of lemon-rind, vanilla,
coffee, chocolate, or anything that may be preferred, a piece of butter
the size of a walnut.

Mode. — Mix the ground rice with 6 tablespoonfuls of the milk quite
smoothly, and put it into a saucepan with the remainder of the milk
and butter, and keep stirring it over the fire for about 3 hour, or until
the mixture thickens. Separate the yolks from the whites of the
eggs, beat the former in a basin, and stir to them the rice and suffi-
cient pounded sugar to sweeten the souffle ; but add this latter ingre-
dient as sparingly as possible, as, the less sugar there is used, the
lighter will be the souffle. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff
froth or snow ; mix them with the other preparation, and pour the
whole into a souffle-dish, and put it instantly into the oven ; bake it
about i hour in a moderate oven ; take it out, hold a salamander or hot

74G

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

shovel over the top, sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and send the souffle
to table in the dish it was baked in, either with a napkin pinned
round, or inclosed in a more ornamental dish. The excellence of this
fashionable dish entirely depends on the proper whisking of the whites
of the eggs, the manner of baking, and the expedition with which it
is sent to table. Souffles should be served instantly from the oven, or
they will sink, and be nothing more than an ordinary pudding.

Time. — About h hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

TO MAKE A SOUEELE.

1481. Ingredients. — 3 heaped tablespoonfuls of potato-flour, rice-
flour, arrowroot, or tapioca, 1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, a piece of butter
the size of a walnut, sifted sugar to taste, \ saltspoonful of salt,
flavouring.

Mode. — Mix the potato-flour, or whichever one of the above ingre-
dients is used, with a little of the milk ; put it into a saucepan, with the
remainder of the milk, the butter, salt, and sufficient pounded sugar
to sweeten the whole nicely. Stir these ingredients over the fire until
the mixture thickens ; then take it off the fire, and let it cool a little.
Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, beat the latter, and
stir them into the souffle -batter. Now whisk the whites of the eggs
to the firmest possible froth, for on this depends the excellence of the
dish ; stir them to the other ingredients, and
add a few drops of essence of any flavouring that
may be preferred ; such as vanilla, lemon, orange,
ginger, &c. &c. Pour the batter into a souffle-
dish, put it immediately into the oven, and bake
for about h hour ; then take it out, put the dish
into another more ornamental one, such as is made for the purpose ;
hold a salamander or hot shovel over the souffle, strew it with sifted
sugar, and send it instantly to table. The secret of making a souffle
well, is to have the eggs well whisked, but particularly the whites,
the oven not too hot, and to send it to table the moment it comes from
the oven. If the souffle be ever so well made, and it is allowed to
stand before being sent to table, its appearance and goodness will be
entirely spoiled. Souffles may be flavoured in various ways, but must
be named accordingly. Yanilla is one of the most delicate and re-
cherche flavourings that can be used for this very fashionable dish.

Time. — About £ hour in the oven ; 2 or 3 minutes to hold the sala-
mander over. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

SOVrrLE-PAN.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

747

SNOW EGGS, or CHUFS A LA NEIGE.

(A very pretty Supper Dish.)

1482. Ingredients. — 4 eggs, | pint of milk, pounded sugar to taste
flavouring of vanilla, lemon-rind, or orange-flower water.

Mode. — Put the milk into a saucepan with suflicient sugar to
sweeten it nicely, and the rind of § lemon. Let this steep by the side
of the fire for i hour, when take out the peel ; separate the whites
from the yolks of the eggs, and whisk the former to a perfectly stiff
froth, or until there is no liquid remaining ; bring the milk to the
boiling-point, and drop in the snow a tablespoonful at a time, and keep
turning the eggs until sufficiently cooked. Then place them on a
glass dish, beat up the yolks of the eggs, stir to them the milk, add a
little more sugar, and strain this mixture into a jug ; place the jug in
a saucepan of boiling water, and stir it one way until the mixture
thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Pour this
custard over the eggs, when they should rise to the surface. They
make an exceedingly pretty addition to a supper, and should be
put in a cold place after being made. When they are flavoured
with vanilla or orange-flower water, it is not necessary to steep the
milk. A few drops of the essence of either may be poured in the milk
just before the whites are poached. In making the custard, a little
more flavouring and sugar should always be added.

Time. — About 2 minutes to poach the whites ; 8 minutes to stir the
custard.

Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

STONE CREAM OE TOTTS LBS MOIS.

1483. Ingredients. — |lb. of preserve, 1 pint of milk, 2 oz. of lump
sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of tous les mois, 3 drops of essence of
cloves, 3 drops of almond-flavouring.

Mode— Place the preserve at the bottom of a glass dish ; put the
milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and make it boil. Mix
to a smooth hatter the tous les mois, with a very little cold milk ; stir
it briskly into the boiling milk, add the flavouring, and simmer for
2 minutes. When rather cool, but before turning solid, pour the
cream over the jam, and ornament it with strips of red-currant jelly
or preserved fruit.

Time. — 2 minutes. Average cost, 10 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

7-13

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

STEAWBEEEY JELLY.

!4^4- gredieis is.* Strawberries, pounded sugar; to every pint
of juice allow lj; oz. of isinglass.

Node. Pick the strawberries, put them into a pan, squeeze them
well with a wooden spoon, add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten
them nicely, and let them remain for 1 hour, that the juice may be
extracted ; then add -i pint of water to every pint of juice. Strain the
strawberry -juice and water through a bag; measure it, and to every
pint allow U oz. of isinglass, melted and clarified in \ pint of water.
Mix this with the juice ; put the jelly into a mould, and set the mould
in ice. A little lemon-juice added to the strawberry-juice improves
the flavour of the jelly, if the fruit is very ripe ; but it must be well
strained before it is put to the other ingredients, or it will make the
jelly muddy.

Time. — 1 hour to draw the juice.

Average cost, with the best isinglass, 3s.

Sufficient. — Allow 11- pint of jelly for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in June, July, and August.

I SWISS CREAM.

1485. Ingredients. — 5 lb. of macaroons or 6 small sponge-cakes,
sherry, 1 pint of cream, 5 oz. of lump sugar, 2 large tablespoonfuls
of arrowroot, the rind of 1 lemon, the juice of i lemon, 3 tablespoon-
fuls of milk. ,

Mode. — Lay the macaroons or sponge-cakes in a glass dish, and
pour over them as much sherry as will cover them, or sufficient to
soak them well. Put the cream into a lined saucepan, with the sugar
and lemon-rind, and let it remain by the side of the fire until the
cream is well flavoured, when take out the lemon-rind. Mix the
arrowroot smoothly with the cold milk ; add this to the cream, and
let it boil gently for about 3 minutes, keeping it well stirred. Take it
off the fire, stir till nearly cold, when add the lemon -juice, and pour
the whole over the cakes. Garnish the cream with strips of angelica,
or candied citron cut thin, or bright-coloured jelly or preserve. This
cream is exceedingly delicious, flavoured with vanilla instead of
lemon : when this flavouring is used, the sherry may be omitted, and
the mixture poured over the dry cakes.

Time. — About \ hour to infuse the lemon-rind ; 5 minutes to boil
the cream.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, 3s.

Sufficient for 5 or G persons. Seasonable at any time.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

749

TO MAKE SYLLABUB.

1486. Ingredients. — 1 pint of sherry or white wine, -2- grated nut-
meg, sugar to taste, l| pint of milk.

Mode. — Put the wine into a bowl, with the grated nutmeg and
.plenty of pounded sugar, and milk into it the above proportion ot
milk frothed up. Clouted cream may he laid on the top, with pounded
cinnamon or nutmeg and sugar ; and a little brandy may he added to
the wine before the milk is put in. In some counties, cider is sub-
stituted for the wine : when this is used, brandy must always be
added. Warm milk may be poured on from a spouted jug or teapot ;
but it must be held very high.

Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for 6 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

TIPSY CAKE.

1487. Ingredients. — 1 moulded sponge- or Savoy-cake, sufficient
sweet wine or sherry to soak it, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 2 oz. of
sweet almonds, 1 pint of rich custard.

Mode. — Procure a cake that is three or four days old, — either sponge,
Savoy, or rice answering for the purpose of a tipsy cake. Cut the
bottom of the cake level, to make it stand firm
in the dish ; make a small hole in the centre,
and pour in and over the cake sufficient sweet
wine or sherry, mixed with the above proportion
of brandy, to soak it nicely. When the cake
is well soaked, blanch and cut the almonds into
strips, stick them all over the cake, and pour
round it a good custard, made by recipe 3So.

1423, allowing 8 eggs instead of 6 to the pint
of milk. The cakes are sometimes crumbled
and soaked, and a whipped cream heaped over
them, the same as for trifles.

Time. — About 2 hours to soak the cake. Average cost, is. Qd.

Sufficient for 1 dish. Seasonable at any time.

Ataiond.— The almond-tree is a native of warmer climates than Britain, and is in-
digenous to the northern parts of Africa and Asia; but it is now commonly cultivated
in Italy, Spain, and the south of France. It is not usually grown in Britain, and the
fruit seldom ripens in this country : it is much admired for the beauty of its blossoms.
In the form of its leaves aud blossoms it strongly resembles the peach-tree, and is included
in the same genus by botanists ; but the fruit, instead of presenting a delicious pulp like
the peach, shrivels up us it ripens, and becomes only a tough coriaceous covering to the
stone inclosing the eatable kernel, which is surrounded by a thin bitter skin. It Rowers
early in the spring, and produces fruit in August. There are two sorts of almonds, —
sweet and bitter ; but they are considered to be only varieties of the species ; and though
the qualities of the kernels are very dilierent, they are not distinguishable by their
appearance.

TIPSY CAKE.

750

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

• AN EASY WAY OE MAKING A TIPSY CAKE.

1488. Ingredients.— 12 stale small sponge-cakes, raisin wine, l lb.
of jam, 1 pint of custard No. 1423.

Mode. — Soak the sponge-cakes, which should be stale (on this
account they should be cheaper), in a little raisin wine ; arrange them
on a deep glass dish in four layers, putting a layer of jam between
each, and pour round them a pint of custard, made by recipe No.
1423, decorating the top with cut preserved fruit.

Time. — 2 hours to soak the cakes. Average cost, 2 s. Gd.

Sufficient for 1 dish. Seasonable at any time.

TO MAKE A THIELE.

1489. Ingredients.— For the whip, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of
pounded sugar, the whites of 2 eggs, a small glass of sherry or raisin
wine. For the trifle, 1 pint of custard, made with 8 eggs to a pint
of milk ; 6 small sponge-cakes, or 6 slices of sponge-cake ; 12 maca-
roons, 2 dozen ratafias, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, the grated rind of
1 lemon, a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam, 5 pint of sherry or
sweet wine, 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

Mode. — The whip to lay over the top of the trifle should be made
the day before it is required for table, as the flavour is better, and it is
much more solid than when prepared the same
day. Put into a large bowl the pounded sugar,
the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten
to a stiff froth, a glass of sherry or sweet wine,
and the cream. Whisk these ingredients well
in a cool place, and take off the froth with a
skimmer as fast as it rises, and put it on a
sieve to drain ; continue the whisking till there
is sufficient of the whip, which must be put
away in a cool place to drain. The next day,
place the sponge-cakes, macaroons, and ratafias
at the bottom of a trifle-dish ; pour over them 5 pint of sherry or
sweet wine, mixed with 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, and, should this
proportion of wine not be found quite sufficient, add a little more, as
the cakes should be well soaked. Over the cakes put the grated
lemon-rind, the sweet almonds, blanched and cut into strips, and a
layer of raspberry or strawberry jam. Make a good custard by recipe
No. 1423, using 8 instead of 5 eggs to the pint of milk, and let this cool
a little ; then pour it over the cakes, &c. The whip being made the
day previously, and the trifle prepared, there remains nothing to do

tKiflu

751

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

now but heap the whip lightly over the top : this should stand as high
as possible, and it may be garnished with strips of bright currant
jelly, crystallized sweetmeats, or flowers ; the small coloured comfits
are sometimes used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle, but they are
now considered rather old-fashioned. (See coloured plate, V 1.)
Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, 5s. 6 cl.

Sufficient for 1 trifle. Seasonable at any time.

VANILLA CREAM.

1490. Ingredients. — 1 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 6 oz. of
sugar, 1 oz. of isinglass, flavouring to taste of essence of vanilla.

Mode. — Put the milk and sugar into a saucepan, and let it get hot
over a slow fire ; beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add gradually
the sweetened milk ; flavour the whole with
essence of vanilla, put the mixture into a
jug, and place this jug in a saucepan of
boiling water. Stir the contents with a
wooden spoon one way until the mixture
thickens, but do not allow -it to boil, or it
will be full of lumps. Take it off the fire ;
stir in the isinglass, which should be pre-
viously dissolved in about 1 pint of water,
and boiled for 2 or 3 minutes ; pour the
cream into an oiled mould, put it in a cool place to set, and turn it
out carefully on a dish. Instead of using the essence of vanilla, a pod
may be boiled in the milk instead, until the flavour is well extracted.
A pod, or a pod and a half, will be found sufficient for the above pro-
portion of ingredients.

Time. — About 10 minutes to stir the mixture.

Average cost , with the best isinglass, 2s. 6 d.

Sufficient to fill a quart mould, Seasonable at any time.

Vanille, or Vanilla, is the fruit of the vanillier, a parasitical herbaceous plant, which
flourishes in Brazil, Mexico, and Peru. The fruit is a long capsule, thick and fleshy.

_ Certain species of this fruit contain a pulp with a delicious perfume and flavour.
Vanilla is principally imported from Mexico. The capsules for export are always picked
at perfect maturity. The essence is the form in which it is used generally and most
conveniently. Its properties are stimulating and exciting. . It is in daily use for ices,,
chocolates, and flavouring confections generally.

VANILLA-CREAM MOULD .

VICTORIA SANDWICHES.

1491 • Ingredients.— 4 eggs ; their weight in pounded sugar, butter,
and flour ; \ saltspoonful of salt, a layer of any kind of jam or mar-
malade.

Mode.— Beat the butter to a cream ; dredge in the flour and pounded
sugar ; stir these ingredients well together, and add the eggs, which

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

752

should be previously thoroughly whisked. When the mixture has
been well beaten for about 10 minutes, butter a Yorkshire-pudding
tin, pour in the batter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes.
Let it cool, spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve,
place over it the other half of the cake, press the pieces slightly
together, and then cut it into long linger-pieces ; pile them in cross-
bars on a glass dish, and serve.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average cost, Is. 3 d.

Sufficient for'5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

WHIPPED CREAM, for putting on Trifles, serving in Glasses, &c.

1492. Ingredients. — To every pint of cream allow 3 oz. of pounded
sugar, 1 glass of sherry or any kind of sweet white wine, the rind of
i lemon, the white of 1 egg.

Mode. — Eub the sugar on the lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar
until quite fine, and beat up the white of the egg until quite stiff;

put the cream into a large bowl, with the
sugar, wine, and beaten egg, and whip it
to a froth ; as fast as the froth rises, take
it off with a skimmer, and put it on a sieve
to drain, in a cool place. This should be
made the day before it is wanted, as the
whip is then so much firmer. The cream

PASTRY LEAP. *

should be whipped in a cool place, and in
summer, over ice, if it is obtainable. A plain whipped cream may
be served on a glass dish, and garnished with strips of angelica, or
pastry leaves, or pieces of bright-coloured jelly : it makes a very pretty
addition to the supper-table.

Time. — About 1 hour to whip the cream.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, Is. 9c?.

Sufficient for 1 dish or 1 trifle. Seasonable at any time.

WHIPPPED SYLLABUB S.

1493. Ingredients. — § pint of cream, pint of sherry, half that
quantity of brandy, the juice of 5 lemon, a little grated nutmeg, 3oz.
of pounded sugar, whipped cream the same as for trifle No. 1489.

Mode. — Mix all the ingredients together, put the syllabub into
glasses, and over the top of them heap a little whipped cream, made in
the same manner as for trifle No. 1489. Solid syllabub is made by
whisking or milling the mixture to a stiff froth, and putting it in
the glasses, without the whipped cream at the top.

Average cost, Is. 8 d.

Sufficient to fill 8 or 9 glasses. Seasonable at any time.

CREAMS, JELLIES, OMELETS, ETC.

753

THE CUKE’S OMELET.

"Every one knows," says Brillat Savarin, in liis “Physiology of Taste,”
" that for twenty years Madame Rdcamier was the most beautiful woman in
Paris. It is also well known that she was exceedingly charitable, and took a
great interest in every benevolent work. Wishing to consult the Curd of

respecting the working of an institution, she went to his house at

five o’clock in the afternoon, and was much astonished at finding him already
at his dinner-table.

“ Madame Rdcamier wished to retire, but the Curd would not hear of it. A
neat white cloth covered the table ; some good okl wine sparkled in a crystal
decanter ; the porcelain was of the best ; the plates had heaters of boiling
water beneath them ; a neatly-costumed maid-servant was in attendance. The
repast was a compromise between frugality and luxury. The crawfish-soup
had just been removed, and there was on the table a salmon-trout, an omelet,
and a salad.

“ ‘ My dinner will tell you,’ said the worthy Curd, with a smile, ' that it is
fast-day, according to our Church’s regulations.’ Madame Rdcamier and her
host attacked the trout, the sauce served with which betrayed a skilful hand,
the countenance of the Curd the while showing satisfaction.

"And now they fell upon the omelet, which was round, sufficiently thick,
and cooked, so to speak, to a hair’s-breadth.

"As the spoon entered the omelet, a thick -rich juice issued from it, plea-
sant to the eye as well as to the smell ; the dish became full of it ; and our
fair friend owns that, between the perfume and the sight, it made her mouth
water.

" ' It is an omelette au ikon ’ (that is to say, a tunny omelet), said the
Curd, noticing, with the greatest delight, the emotion of Madame Recamicr,
‘ and few people taste it without lavishing praises on it.’

“ ' It surprises me not at all,’ returned the beauty ; ‘ never has so enticing an
omelet met my gaze at any of our lay tables.’

" 'My cook understands them well, I think.’

" ' Yes,’ added Madame, ' I never ate anything so delightful.’ ”

Then came the salad, which Savarin recommends to all who place confidence
in him. It refreshes without exciting ; and he has a theory that it makes
people younger.

Amidst pleasant converse the dessert arrived. It consisted of three apples,
cheese, and a plate of preserves ; and then upon a little round table was served
the Mocha coffee, for which France has been, and is, so justly famous.

“ ‘ I never,’ said the Curd, ' take spirits ; I always offer liqueurs to my guests,
but reserve the use of them, myself, to my old age, if it should please Provi-
dence to grant me that.’

“ Finally, the charming Madame Rdcamier took her leave, and told all her
friends of the delicious omelet which she had seen and partaken of.”

And Brillat Savarin, in his capacity as tho Lavard of the concoaled

3 c

75i

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

treasures of Gastronomia, lias succeeded in withdrawing from obscurity the
dotails of the preparation of which so much had been said, and which he
imagines to be as wholesome as it was agreeable.

Here follows the recipe : —

OMELETTE AU THOU.

1494. Take, for 6 persons, the roes of 2 carp;* bleach them, by putting
them, for 5 minutes, in boiling water slightly salted. Take a piece of fresh
tunny about the size of a hen’s egg, to which add a small shalot already
chopped ; hash up together the roe and the tunny, so as to mix them well,
and throw the whole into a saucepan, with a sufficient quantity of very good
butter: whip it up until the butter is melted ! This constitutes the specialty
of the omelet. Take a second piece of butter, d disa-elion, mix it with
parsley and herbs, place it in a long-shaped dish destined to receive the
omelet; squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and place it on hot embers.
Beat up 12 eggs, (the fresher the hotter) ; throw up the sautd of roe and
tunny, stirring it so as to mix all well together ; then make your omelet in
the usual manner, endeavouring to turn it out long, thick, and soft. Spread
it carefully on the dish prepared for it, and serve at once. This dish ought
to be reserved for recherchd ddjefmers, or for assemblies where amateurs meet
who know how to eat well : washed down with a good old wine, it will work
wonders.

Note.— The roe and the tunny must be beaten up (sautd) without allowing j
them to boil, to prevent their hardening, which would prevent them mixing,
well with the eggs. Your dish should be hollowed towards the centre, to
allow the gravy to concentrate, that it may be helped with a spoon. The dish !
ought to be slightly heated, otherwise the cold china will extract all the heat
from the omelet.

* An American writer says he lias followed this recipe, substituting pike, shad, &c.,
in the place of carp, and can recommend all these also, with a quiet conscience. Any
fish, indeed, may be used with success. ,

CHAPTER XXX.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON PRESERVES, CONEEC-
TIONARV, ICES, AND DESSERT, DISHES.

PRESERVES.

1495. From the nature of vegetable substances, and chiefly from their not
passing so rapidly into the putrescent state as animal bodies, the mode of
preserving them is somewhat different, although the general principles
are the same. All the means of preservation are put in practice occasionally
for fruits and the various parts of vegetables, according to the nature of the
species, the climate, the uses to which they are applied, &c. Some are dried, »
as nuts, raisins, sweet herbs, &c. ; others are preserved by means of sugar,
such as many fruits whose delicate juices would be lost by drying ; some are
preserved by means of vinegar, and chiefly used as condiments or pickles ; a few
also by salting, as French beans ; while others are preserved in spirits. We
have, however, in this place to treat of the best methods of preserving fruits.
Fruit is a most important item in the economy of health ; the epicurean can
scarcely be said to have any luxuries without it ; therefore, as it is so in-
valuable, when we cannot have it fresh, we must have it preserved. It has
long been a desideratum to preserve fruits by some cheap method, yet by such
as would keep them fit for the various culinary purposes, as making tarts and
other similar dishes. The expenso of preserving them with sugar is a serious
objection ; for, except the sugar is used in considerable quantities, the success is
very uncertain. Sugar also overpowers and destroys the sub-acid tasto so desirable
in many fruits : those which are proservod in this manner are chiefly intended

3 c 2

756

MODERN nOUSEnOLD COOKERY.

for tho dessert. Fruits intended for preservation should be gathered in the
morning, in dry weathor, with the morning sun upon them, if possible ; they
will then have their fullest flavour, and keep in good condition longer than
when gathered at any other time. Until fruit can be used, it should be placed
in the dairy, an ice-house, or a refrigerator. In an ice-house it will remain
fresh and plump for several days. Fruit gathered in wot or foggy weather
will soon be mildewed, and be of no service for preserves.

1496. Having secured the first and most important contribution to the
manufacture of preserves, — the fruit, the next consideration is the preparation
of tho syrup in which the fruit is to be suspended ; and this requires much
care. In the confectioner’s art there is a great nicety in proportioning the
degree of concentration of the syrup very exactly to each particular case ; and
they know this by signs, and express it by certain technical terms. But to
distinguish these properly requires very great attention and considerable
experience. The principal thing to be acquainted with is the feet, that, in
proportion as the syrup is longer boiled, its water will become evaporated, and
its consistency will be thicker. Great care must be taken in the management
of the fire, that the syrup does not boil over, and that the boiling is not carried
to such an extent as to burn the sugar.

1497. The first degree of consistency is called t/nc thread, which is subdivided
into the little and great thread. If you dip the finger into the syrup and apply
it to the thumb, the tenacity of the syrup will, on separating the finger and
thumb, afford a thread, which shortly breaks : this is the little thread. If the
thread, from the greater tenacity, and, consequently, greater strength of the
syrup, admits of a greater extension of the finger and thumb, it is called the
great thread. There are half a dozen other terms and experiments for
testing the various thickness of tho boiling sugar towards the consistency
called caramel ; but that degree of sugar-boiling belongs to the confectioner.

A solution of sugar prepared by dissolving two parts of double-refined sugar
(the best sugar is the most economical for preserves) in one of water, and
boiling this a little, affords a syrup of the right degree of strength, and which
neither ferments nor crystallizes. This appears to be the degree called smooth
by the confectioners, and is proper to be used for the purposes of preserves.
The syrup employed should sometimes be clarified, which is done in the fol-
lowing manner :• — Dissolve 2 lbs. of loaf sugar in a pint of water ; add to this
solution the white of an egg, and beat it well. Put the preserving-pan
upon the fire with the solution ; stir it with a woodon spatula, and, when it
begins to swell and boil up, throw in some cold water or a little oil, to damp
the boiling ; for, as it rises. suddenly, if it should boil over, it would take fire,
being of a very inflammable nature. Let it boil up again ; then take it off,
and remove carefully the scum that has risen. Boil the solution again, throw
in a little more cold water, remove the scutn, and so on for three or four times j
successively ; then strain it. It is considered to be sufficiently boiled when
some taken up in a spoon pours out like oil.

MODERN MODE OF SERVING DISHES.

AY 1

SI. Jelly of two colours. T 1. Raspberry Cream. TI 1. CentrcDish of Various Fruits.
V 1. Trifle. AY 1. Strawberries au naturel in ornamental Flowerpot.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

757

149S. Although sugar passes so easily into the state of fermentation, and is,
in fact, the only substance capable of undergoing the vinous stage of that
process, yet it will not ferment at all if the quantity be sufficient to constitute
a very strong svrup : hence, syrups are used to preserve fruits and other
vegetable substances from tho changes they would undergo if left to themselves.
Before sugar was in use, honey was employed to preserve many vegetable
productions, though this substance has now given way to the juice of the
sugar-cane.

1499. The fruits that are the most fit for preservation in syrup are, apricots,
peaches, nectarines, apples, greengages, plums of all kinds, and pears. As
an example, take some apricots not too ripe, make a small slit at the stem end,
and push out th6 stone ; simmer them in water till they are softened and
about half done, and afterwards throw them into cold water. When they
have cooled, take them out and drain them. Put the apricots into the pre-
serving-pan with sufficient syrup to cover them ; let them boil up three or four
times, and then skim them ; remove then* from the fire, pour them into an
earthen pan, and let them cool till next day. Boil them up three days suc-
cessively, skimming each time, and they will then be finished and in a
state fit to be put into pots for use. After each boiling, it is proper to examine
into the state of the syrup when cold ; if too thin, it will bear additional
boiling ; if too thick, it may be lowered with more syrup of the usual standard.
The reason why the fruit is emptied out of the preserving-pan into au earthen
pan is, that the acid of the fruit acts upon the copper, of which the preserving-
pans are usually made. From this example the process of preserving fruits by
syrup will be easily comprehended. The first object is to soften the fruit by
blanching or boiling it in water, in order that the syrup by which it is pre-
served may penetrate through its substance.

1 500. Many fruits, when preserved by boiling, lose much of their peculiar and
delicate flavour, as, for instance, pine-apples ; and this inconvenience may, in
some instances, be remedied by preserving them without heat. Cut the fruit
in slices about one fifth of an inch thick, strew powdered loaf sugar an eighth
of an inch thick on the bottom of a jar, and put the slices on it. Put more
sugar on this, and then another layer of the slices, and so on till the jar is full.
Place the jar with the fruit up to the neck in boiling water, and keep it there
till the sugar is completely dissolved, which may take half an hour, removing
the scum as it rises. Lastly, tie a wet bladder over the mouth of the jar, or
cork and wax it.

1501. Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be converted
into dry preserves, by first draining them from the syrup, and then drying
them in a stove or very moderate oven, adding to them a quantity of powdered
loaf sugar, which will gradually penetrate the fruit, while the fluid parts of the
syrup gently evaporate. They should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve,
and turned every six or eight hours, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over

753

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

them every time they are turned. Afterwards, they are to be kopt in a dry
situation, in drawers or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this
manner, in bunches, are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavour. In this
way it is, also, that orange and lemon chips are preserved.

1502. Marmalades, jams, and fruit pastes are of the same nature, and are '
now in very general request. They are prepared without difficulty, by at-
tending to a very few directions ; they are somewhat expensive, but may be
kept without spoiling for a considerable time. Marmalades and jams differ
little from each other : they are preserves of a half-liquid consistency, made
by boiling the pulp of fruits, and sometimes part of the rinds, with sugar. The
appellation of marmalade is applied to those confitures which are composed

of the firmer fruits, as pineapples or the rinds of oranges ; whereas jams are
made of the more juioy berries, such as strawberries, raspberries, currants,
mulberries, &c. Fruit pastes are a kind of marmalades, consisting of the pulp
of fruits, first evaporated to a proper consistency, and afterwards boiled with
sugar. The mixture is then pourdd into a mould, or spread on sheets of tin,
and subsequently dried in the oven or stove till it has acquired the state of
a paste. From a sheet of this paste, strips may be cut and formed into any
shape that may be desired, as knots, rings, &c. Jams require the same care
and attention in the boiling as marmalade ; the slightest degree of burning
communicates a disagreeable empyreumatic taste, and if thej^ are not boiled
sufficiently, they will not keep. That they may keep, it is necessary not to
be sparing of sugar.

1503. In all the operations for preserve-making, when the preserving-pan is
used, it should not be placed on the fire, but on a trivet, unless the jam is
made on a hot plate, when this is not necessary. If the pan is placed close on
to the fire, the preserve is very liable to burn, and the colour and flavour be
consequently spoiled.

1504. Fruit jellies are compounds of the juices of fruits combined with sugar,
concentrated, by boiling, to such a consistency that the liquid, upon cooling,
assumes the form of a tremulous jelly.

1505. Before fruits are candied, they must first be boiled in syrup, after
which they are taken out and dried on a stove, or before the fire ; the syrup
is then to be concentrated, or boiled to a candy height, and the fruit dipped
in it, and again laid on the stove to dry and candy : they are then to bo put
into boxes, and kept dry.* v

1506. Conserves consist of fresh vegetable matters beat into a uniform mass
with refined sugar, and they are intended to preserve the virtues and properties
of recent flowers, leaves, roots, peels, or fruits, unaltered, and as near as
possible to what they were when fresh gathered, and to give them an agree-
able taste.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

759

1507. Tho last-mentioned, but not the least-important preparation of fruit,
is the compdte, a confituro made at the momont of need, and with much less
sugar than would be ordinarily put to preserves. They are most wholesome
tilings, suitable to most stomachs which cannot accommodate themselves to
raw fruit or a large portion of sugar : they are the happy medium, and far
better than ordinary stewed fruit.

CONFEC TIOIAET.

1508. In speaking of confectionary, it should be remarked that all the
various preparations above named come, strictly speaking, under that head ;
for the various fruits, flowers, herbs, 'roots, and juices, which, when boiled
with sugar, were formerly employed in pharmacy as well as for sweetmeats,
were called confections, from the Latin word conficere, ‘ to make up but the
term confectionary embraces a very large class indeed of sweet food, many
kinds of which should not be attempted in the ordinary cuisine. The thousand
and one ornamental dishes that adorn the tables of the wealthy should be
pm-chased from tho confectioner : they cannot profitably be made at home.
Apart from these, cakes, biscuits, and tarts, &c., the class of sweetmeats
called confections may be thus classified : — 1. Liquid confects, or fruits either
whole or in pieces, preserved by being immersed in a fluid transparent syrup ;
as the liquid confects of apricots, green citrons, and many foreign fruits.
2. ' Dry confects are those which, after having been boiled in the syrup, are
taken out and put to dry in an oven, as citron and orange-peel, &c. 3. Mar-

malade, jams, and pastes, a kind of soft compounds made of the pulp of
fruits or other vegetable substances, beat up with sugar or honey ; such as
oranges, apricots, pears, &e. 4. Jellies are the juices of fruits boiled with

sugar to a pretty thick consistency, so as, upon cooling, to form a trembling
jelly ; as cun-ant, gooseberry, apple j elly, kc. 5. Conserves are a kind of
dry confects, made by beating up flowers, fruits, kc., with sugar-, not
dissolved. 6. Candies are fruits candied over with sugar after having been
boiled in the syrup.

DESSEST DISHES.

1509. With moderns the dessert is not so profuse, nor does it hold the same
relationship to the dinner that it held with the ancients, — the Romans, more
especially. On ivory tables they would spread hundreds of different kinds of
raw, cooked, and preserved fruits, tarts and cakes, as substitutes for the more
substantial comestibles with which the guests were satiated. However, as
lato as tho reigns of our two last Georges, fabulous sums were often expended
upon fanciful desserts. The dessert certainly repays, in its general effect,
tho expenditure upon it of much pains ; and it may be said, that if there
bo any poetry at all in meals, or the procoss of feeding, thero is poetry in the

700

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERT.

dessert, the materials for which should bo selected with taste, and, of course,
must depend, in n great measure, upon the season. Pines, melons, grapes,
poaches, nectarines, plums, strawberries, apples, pears, oranges, almonds,
raisins, figs, walnuts, filberts, medlars, cherries, &c. &c., all kinds of dried
fruits, and elioico and delicately-flavoured cakes and biscuits, make up the
dessert, together with the most costly and recherche wines. The shape of
the dishes varies at different periods, the prevailing fashion at present
being oval and circular dishes on stems. The patterns and colours are also
subject to changes of fashion ; some persons selecting china, chaste in pattern
and colour ; others, elegantly-shaped glass dishes on stems, with gilt edges.
The beauty of the dessert services at the tables of the wealthy tends to
enhance the splendour of the plate. The general mode of putting a dessert
on table, now the elegant tazzas are fashionable, is, to place them down
the middle of the table, a tall and short dish alternately ; the fresh fruits
being arranged on the tall dishes, and dried fruits, bon-bons, &c. , on small
round or oval glass plates. The garnishing needs especial attention, as the
contrast of the brilliant-coloured fruits with nicely-arranged foliage is very
charming. The garnish par excellence for dessert is the ice-plant ; its crystallized
dewdrops producing a marvellous effect in the height of summer, giving a most
inviting sense of coolness to the fruit it encircles. The double-edged mallow,
strawberry, and vine leaves have a pleasing effect ; and for winter desserts, the
bay, cuba, and laurel are sometimes used. In town, the expense and difficulty
of obtaining natural foliage is great, but paper and composite leaves are to be
purchased at an almost nominal price. Mixed fruits of the larger sort are
now frequently served on one dish. This mode admits of the display of much
taste in the arrangement of the fruit : for instance, a pine in the centre
of the dish, surrounded with large plums of various sorts and colours, mixed
with pears, rosy-cheeked apples, all arranged with a due regard to colour,
have a very good effect. Again, apples and pears look well mingled with
plums and grapes, hanging from the border of the dish in a neglige sort of
manner, with a large bunch of the same fruit lying on the top of the apples.
A dessert would not now be considered complete without candied and preserved
fruits and confections. The candied fruits may be purchased at a less cost
than they can be manufactured at home. They are preserved abroad in
most ornamental and elegant forms. And since, from the facilities of travel,
we have become so familiar with the tables of the French, chocolate in dif-
ferent forms is indispensable to our desserts.

ICES.

1.510. Ices are composed, it is scarcely necessary to say, of congealed cream
or water, combined sometimes with liqueurs or other flavouring ingredients,
or more generally with the juices of fruits. At desserts, or at some evening
parties, ices are scarcely to be dispensed with. The principal utensils
required for making ice-creams are ice-tubs, freezing-pots, spaddles, and

PRESERVES, COXFECTIORAKV, ETC.

701

a cellaret. Tlio tub must bo large enough to contain about a bushel of ice,
pounded small, when brought out of the ice-house, and mixed very carefully
with either salt, nitre, or soda. The freezing-pot is best made of pewter. If
it be of tin, as is sometimes the case, the congelation goes on too rapidly in it
for the thorough intermingling of its contents, on which the excellence of the
ice greatly depends. Tho spaddle is generally made of copper, kept bright
and clean. The cellaret is a tin vessel, in which ices are kept for a short time
from dissolving. The method to be pm-sued in the freezing process must be
attended to. When the ice-tub is prepared with fresh-pounded ice and salt,
tho freezing-pot is put into it up to its cover. The articles to be congealed
are then poured into it and covered over ; but to prevent the ingredients from
separating and the heaviest of them from falling to the bottom of the mould,
it is requisite to turn the freezing-pot round and round by the handle, so as to
keep its contents moving until the congelation commences. As soon as this
is perceived (the cover of the pot being occasionally taken off for the purpose
of noticing wh,en freezing takes place), the cover is immediately closed over it,
ice is put upon it, and it is left in this state till it is served. The use of the
spaddle is to stir up and remove from the sides of the freezing-pot the cream,
which in the shaking may have washed against it, and by stirring- it in with
the rest, to prevent waste of it occurring. Any negligence in stirring the ;
contents of the freezing-pot before congelation takes place, will destroy tho
whole : either the sugar sinks to the bottom and leaves the ice insufficiently
sweetened, or lumps are formed, which disfigure and discolour it.

15 1 1. The aged, the delicate, and children should abstain from ices or iced
beverages ; even the strong and healthy should partake of them in modera-
tion. They should be taken immediately after the repast, or some horns after,
because the taking these substances during the process of digestion is apt to
provoke indisposition. It is necessary, then, that this function should have
scarcely commenced, or that it should be completely finished, before partaking
of ices. It is also necessary to abstain from them when persons are very
warm, or immediately after taking violent exercise, as in some cases they
have produced illnesses which have ended fatally.

[Do ladies know to whom they are indebted for the introduction of ices,
which all the fan- sex are passionately fond of? — To Catherine de’ Medici.
Will not this fact cover a multitude of sins committed by the instigator of
St. Bartholomew ?]

RECIPES.

K>« —

CHAPTER XXXI.

TO MAKE SYEUP FOR COMPOTES, &c.

1512. Ing redients. — To every lb. of sugar allow l| pint of water.

Mode. — Boil the sugar and water together for £ hour, carefully

removing the scum as it rises : the syrup is then ready for the fruit.
The articles toiled in this syrup will not keep for any length of time,
it being suitable only for dishes intended to be eaten immediately. A
larger proportion of sugar must be added for a syrup intended to keep.

Time. — 1 hour.

TO CLARIFY SUGAR OR SYRUP.

1513. Ingredients. — To every lb. of sugar allow | pint of water
and A the white of an egg.

Mode. — Put the sugar, water, and the' white of the egg, which should
be well beaten, into a preserving-pan or lined saucepan ; and do not put
it on the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Then place it on the fire, and
when it boils, throw in a teacupful of cold water, and do not stir the
sugar after this is added. Bring it to the boiling-point again, and
then place the pan by the side of the fire, for the preparation to
settle. Remove all the scum, and the sugar will be ready for use.
The scum should be placed on a sieve, so that what syrup runs from
it may be boiled up again : this must also be well skimmed.

Time. — 20 minutes for the sugar to dissolve ; 5 minutes to boil.

Note. — The above two recipes are those used in the preparation of dishes
usually made at homo. There are many degrees of boiling sugar, which pro-
cess requires great care, attention, and experience. Caramel sugar, which
makes an elegant cover for sweetmeats, is difficult to prepare, and is best loft
to an experienced confectioner. We give the recipe, for those of our readers
who care to attempt tho operation.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

763

TO BOIL SUGAR TO CARAMEL.

1514. Ingredients. — To every lb. of lump sugar allow 1 gill of
spring water.

Mode. — Boil the sugar and water together very quickly over a
clear tire, skimming it very carefully as soon as it boils. Keep it
boiling until the sugar snaps when a little of it is dropped in a pan
of cold water. If it remains hard, the sugar has attained the right
degree ; then squeeze in a little lemon -juice, and let it remain an
instant on the fire. Set the pan into another of cold water, and the
caramel is then ready for use. The insides of well-oiled moulds are
often ornamented with this sugar, which with a fork should be
spread over them in fine threads or network. A dish of light pastry,
tastefully arranged, looks very prettily with this sugar spun lightly
over it. The sugar must be carefully watched, and taken up the
instant it is done. Unless the cook is very experienced and tho-
roughly understands her business, it is scarcely worth while to attempt
to make this elaborate ornament, as it may be purchased quite as
economically at a confectioner’s, if the failures in the preparation are
taken into consideration.

COMPOTE OP APPLES.

-{Soger's Recipe, — a Dessert Dish.)

1515. Ingredients. — 6 ripe apples, 1 lemon, £ lb. of lump sugar,
i pint of water.

Mode— Select the apples of a moderate size, peel them, cut them in
halves, remove the cores, and rub each piece over with a little lemon.
Put the sugar and water together into a lined saucepan, and let
them boil until forming a thickish syrup, when lay in the apples with
the rind of the lemon cut thin, and the juice
of the same. Let the apples simmer till
tender ; then take them out very carefully,
drain them on a sieve, and reduce the syrup
by boiling it quickly for a few minutes.

"When both are cold, arrange the apples neatly on a glass dish, pour
over the syrup, and garnish with strips of green angelica or candied
citron. Smaller apples may be dressed in the same manner: they
should not be divided in half, but peeled and the cores pushed out
with a vegetable-cutter.

Time.— 10 minutes to boil the sugar and water together ; from 15 to
25 minutes to simmer the apples.

Average cost, 6 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from July to March.

COMPOTE OF APPLES.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

7*1

APPLE GINGER.

{A Dessert Dish.)

15 >6. Ingredients.— 2 1S5. of any kind of hard apples, 2 lbs. of loaf 1
sugar, li pint of water, 1 oz. of tincture of ginger.

Mode. — Boil the sugar and water until they form a rich syrup, '
adding the ginger when it boils up. Pare, core, and cut the apples
into pieces ; dip them in cold water to preserve the colour, and boil
them in the syrup until transparent ; but be careful not to let them
break. Put the pieces of apple into jars, pour over the syrup, and
carefully exclude the air, by well covering them. It will remain good
some time, if kept in a dry place.

Time. — Prom 0 to 10 minutes to boil the syrup ; about h hour to
simmer the apples.

Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable. — Make this in September, October, or November.

APPLE JAM.

1517. Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit weighed after being
pared, cored, and sliced, allow f lb. of preserving-sugar, the grated
rind of 1 lemon, the juice of | lemon.

Mode. — Peel the apples, core and slice them very thin, and be parti-
cular that they are all the same sort. Put them into a jar, stand this in
a saucepan of boiling water, and let the apples stew until quite tender.
Previously to’ putting the fruit into the jar, weigh it, to ascertain the
proportion of sugar that may be required. Put the apples into a
preserving-pan, crush the sugar to small lumps, and add it, with the
grated lemon-rind and juice, to the apples. Simmer these over the
fire for 1 hour, reckoning from the time the jam begins to simmer pro-
perly ; remove the scum as it rises, and when the jam is done, put it
into pots for use. Place a piece of oiled paper over the jam, and to
exclude the air, cover the pots with tissue-paper dipped in the white
of an egg, and stretched over the top. This jam will keep good for a
long time.

Time. — About 2 hours to stew in the jar; 3 hour to boil after the
jam begins to simmer.

Average cost, for this quantity, 5s.

Sufficient. — 7 or 8 lbs. of apples for 6 pots of jam.

Seasonable. — Make this in September, October, or November.

PRESERVES, CORRECTION ARY, ETC.

705

apple jelly.

1518. Ingredients. — To 6 lbs. of apples allow 3 pints of water ; to
every quart of juice allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar the juice of i lemon.

Mode. — Pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and put them into
a jar, with water in the above proportion. Place them in a cool oven,
with the jar well covered, and when the juice is thoroughly drawn and
the apples are quite soft, strain them through a jelly-bag. To every
quart of juice allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, which should be crushed to small
lumps, and put into a preserving-pan with the juice. Boil these
together for rather more than -} hour, remove the scum as it rises, add
the lemon-juice just before it is done, and put the jelly into pots for
use. This preparation is useful for garnishing sweet dishes, and may
be turned out for dessert.

Time. — The apples to be put in the oven over-night, and left till
morning ; rather inoje than i hour to boil the jelly.

Average cost, for this quantity, 3s.

Sufficient for 6 small pots of jelly.

Seasonable. — This .should be made in September, October, or No-
vember.

ir.

1519. Ingredients.— Apples, water; to every pint of syrup allow
f lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Pare and cut the apples into pieces, remove the cores, and
put them in a preserving-pan with sufficient cold water to cover them.
Let them boil for an hour ; then drain the syrup from them through a
hair sieve or jelly-bag, and measure the juice ; to every pint allow
-4 lb', of loaf sugar, and boil these together for 3 hour, removing every
particle of scum as it rises, and keeping the jelly well stirred, that it
may not burn. A little lemon-rind may be boiled with the apples,
and a small quantity of strained lemon- juice may be put in the jelly
just before it is done, when the flavour is liked. This jelly may be
ornamented with preserved greengages, or any other preserved fruit,
and will turn out very prettily for dessert. It should be stored away
in small pots.

Time. — 1 hour to boil the fruit and water; f hour to boil the juice
with the sugar.

Average cost, for 6 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in pro-
portion, 3s.

Sufficient for 6 small pots of jelly.

Seasonable. — Make this in September, October, or November.

766

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

TO PRESERVE APPLES IN QUARTERS, in imitation of

Ginger.

1 520. Ingredients. — To every lb. of apples allow % lb. of sugar,

1 3 oz. of the best white ginger ; 1 oz. of ginger to every £ pint of water.

Mode. — Peel, core, and quarter the apples, and put the fruit, sugar,
and ginger in' layers into a wide-mouthed jar, and let them remain,
for 2 days ; then infuse 1 oz. of ginger in £ pint of boiling water, and
cover it closely, and let it remain for 1 day : this quantity of ginger
and water is for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in propor-
tion. Put the apples, &c., into a preserving-pan with the water
strained from the ginger, and boil till the apples look clear and the
syrup is rich, which will be in about an hour. The rind of a lemon may
be added just before the apples have finished boiling ; and great care
must be taken not to break the pieces of apple in putting them into
the jars. Serve on glass dishes for dessert.

Time. — 2 days for the apples to remain in the jar with sugar, &c.;

1 day to infuse the ginger ; about 1 hour to boil the apples.

Average cost, for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in pro-
portion, 2s. 3 d.

Sufficient. — 3 lbs. should fill 3 moderate-sized jars.

Seasonable— This should be made in September, October, or No-
vember.

COMPOTE OF APRICOTS.

{An elegant Dish.)

i5ai. Ingredients. — £ pint of syrup No. 1512, 12 green apricots.
Mode. — Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, and, when it is ready,
put in the apricots whilst the syrup is boiling. Simmer them very
gently until tender, taking care not to let them break ; take them out
carefifily, arrange them on a glass dish, let the syrup cool a little, pour
it over the apricots, and, when cold, serve.

Time. — Prom 15 to 20 minutes to simmer the apricots.

Average cost, 9 cl.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in June and July, with green apricots.

APRICOT JAM or MARMALADE.

152a. Ingredients. — To every lb. of ripe apricots, weighed after
being skinned and stoned, allow 1 lb. of sugar.

Mode. — Pare the apricots, which should be ripe, as thinly as pos-
sible, break them in half, and remove the stones. Weigh the fruit,
and to every lb. allow the same proportion of loaf sugar. Pound the

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

767

sugar very finely in a mortar, strew it over the apricots, which should
he placed on dishes, and let them remain for 12 hours. Break the
stones, blanch the kernels, and put them with the sugar and fruit
into a preserving-pan. Let these simmer very gently until clear ; take
out the pieces of apricot singly as they become so, and, as fast as the
scum rises, carefully remove it. Put the apricots into small jars, pour
over them the syrup and kernels, cover the jam with pieces of paper
dipped in the purest salad-oil, and stretch over the top of the jars tissue-
; paper, cut about 2 inches larger and brushed over with the white of
an egg ; when dry, it will be perfectly hard and air-tight.

Time. — 12 hours sprinkled with sugar ; about % hour to boil the jam.

Average cost. — When cheap, apricots may be purchased for pre-
serving at about Is. 6d. per gallon.

Sufficient, — 10 lbs. of fruit for 12 pots of jam.

Seasonable. — Make this in August or September.

BARBERRIES IH BURCHES.

1523. Ingredients.— 1 pint of syrup No. 1513, barberries.-

Mode. — Prepare some small pieces of clean white wood, 3 inches

long and { inch wide, and tie the fruit on to these in nice bunches.
Have ready some clear syrup, made by recipe No. 1513 ; put in the
barberries, and simmer them in it for 2 successive days, boiling them
for nearly | hour each day, and covering them each time with the
syrup when cold. When the fruit looks perfectly clear, it is sufficiently
done, and should be stored away in pots, with the syrup poured over,
or the fruit may be candied.

Time. — i hour to simmer each day.

Seasonable in autumn.

N ote. — The berries in their natural state inake a very pretty garnishing for
dishes, and may even be used for the same purpose, preserved as above, and
look exceedingly nice on sweet dishes.

TO MAKE BARLEY-SUGAR.

1524. Ingredients. — To every lb. of sugar allow | pint of water,
5 the white of an egg.

Mode.— lot the sugar into a well-tinned saucepan, with the water,
and, when the former is dissolved, set it over a moderate fire, adding
the well-beaten egg before the mixture gets warm, and stir it well
together. When it boils, remove the scum as it rises, and keep it
boiling until no more appears, and the syrup looks perfectly clear ;
then strain it through a fine sieve or muslin bag, and put it back
into the saucepan. Boil it again like caramel, until it is brittle, when

7G3

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

a little is dropped in a basin of cold water; : it is then sufficiently
boiled. Add a little lemon-juice and a few drops of essence of lemon,
and let it stand for a minute or two. Have ready a marble slab or
large dish, rubbed over with salad-oil ; pour on it the sugar, and cut
it into strips with a pair of scissors: these strips should then be
twisted, and the barley-sugar stored away in a very dry place. It
may be formed into lozenges or drops, by dropping the sugar in a very
small quantity at a time on to the oiled slab or dish.

Time. — \ hour. Average cost, Id.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 sticks.

CARROT JAM TO IMITATE APRICOT PRESERVE.

1525. Ingredients. — Carrots; to every lb. of carrot pulp allow
1 lb. of pounded sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon, the strained juice
of 2, 6 chopped bitter almonds, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

Mode. — Select young carrots ; wash and scrape them clean, cut them
into round pieces, put them into a saucepan with sufficient water to
cover them, and let them simmer until perfectly soft ; then beat them
through a sieve. Weigh the pulp, and to every lb. allow the above
ingredients. Put the pulp into a preserving-pan with the sugar, and
let this boil for 5 minutes, stirring and skimming all the time. When
cold, add the lemon- rind and juice, almonds and brandy; mix these
well with the jam ; then put it into pots, which must be well covered
and kept in a dry place. The brandy may be omitted, but the
preserve will then not keep : with the brandy it will remain good for
months.

Time.— About f hour to boil the carrots ; 5 minutes to simmer the
pulp.

Average cost, Is. 2d. for 1 lb. of pulp, with the other ingredients in
proportion .

Sufficient to fill 3 pots. Seasonable from July to December.

TO MAKE CHERRY BRANDY.

1526. Ingredients. — Morelia cherries, good brandy ; to every lb. of
cherries allow 3 oz. of pounded sugar.

Mode. — Have ready some glass bottles, which must be perfectly dry.
Ascertain that the cherries are not too ripe and are freshly gathered,
and cut off about half of the stalks. Put them into the bottles, with
the above proportion of sugar to every lb. of fruit ; strew this in
between the cherries, and, when the bottles are nearly full, pour in
sufficient brandy to reach just below the cork. A few peach or

PRESERVES^ CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

769

apricot kernels will add muck to their flavour, or a few blanched
bitter almonds. Put corks or bung's into the bottles, tie over them a
piece of bladder, and store away in a dry place. The cherries will be
fit to eat in 2 or 3 months, and will remain good for years. They are
liable to shrivel and become tough if too much sugar be added to them.

Average cost, Is. to Is. 6d. per lb.

Sufficient. — 1 lb. of cherries and about .} pint of brandy for a quart
bottle.

Seasonable in August and September.

DRIED CHERRIES.

1527. Cherries may be put in a slow oven and thoroughly dried
before they begin to change colour. They should then be taken out
of the oven, tied in bunches, and stored away iu a dry place. In the
winter, they may be cooked with sugar for dessert, the same as Nor-
mandy pippins. Particular care must be taken that the oven be not
too hot. Another method of drying cherries is to stone them, and to
put them into a preserving-pan, with plenty of loaf sugar strewed
amongst them. They should be simmered till the fruit shrivels,
when they should be strained from the juice. The cherries should
then be placed in an oven, cool enough to dry without baking them.
About 5 oz. of sugar would be required for 1 lb. of cherries, and the
same syrup may be used again to do another quantity of fruit.

CHERRY JAM.

1528. Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit, weighed before stoning,
allow h lb. of sugar ; to every 6 lbs. of fruit allow 1 pint of red-currant
juice, and to every pint of juice 1 lb. of sugar.

Mode. — Weigh the fruit before stoning, and allow half the weight
of sugar ; stone the cherries, and boil them in a preserving-pan until
nearly all the juice is dried up ; then add the sugar, which should be
crushed to powder, and the currant-juice, allowing 1 pint to every
6 lbs. of cherries (original weight), and 1 lb. of sugar to every pint of
juice. Boil all together until it jellies, which will be in from 20
minutes to l hour ; skim the jam well, keep it well stirred, and, a
few minutes before it is done, crack some of the stones, and add the
kernels : these impart a very delicious flavour to the jam.

Time. — According to the quality of the cherries, from $ to 1 hour
to boil them ; ?0 minutes to i hour with the sugar.

Average cost, from Id. to 8 d. per lb. pot.

Sufficient. — 1 pint of fruit for a lb. pot of jam.

Seasonable. — Make this in July or August.

3 D

770

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

TO PRESERVE CHERRIES IN' SYRUP.

■ (Very delicious.)

1529. Ingredients.— 4 lbs. of cherries, 3 lbs. of sugar, 1 pint of
white- currant j uice .

Mode. — Let the cherries be as clear and as transparent as possible,
and perfectly ripe ; pick off the stalks, and remove the stones, dam-
aging the fruit as little as you can. Make a syrup with the above
proportion of sugar, by recipe No. 1512 ; mix the cherries with it,
and. boil them for about 15 minutes, carefully skimming them ; turn
them gently into a pan, and let them remain till the next day ; then
drain the cherries on a sieve, and put the syrup and white-currant
juice into the preserving-pan again. Boil these together until the
syrup is somewhat reduced and rather thick ; then put in the cherries,
and let them boil for about 5 minutes ; take them off the fire, skim the
syrup, put the cherries into small pots or wide-mouthed bottles ; pour
the syrup over, and when quite cold, tie them down carefully, so that
the air is quite excluded.

Time. — 15 minutes to boil the cherries in the syrup ; 10 minutes to
boil the syrup and currant-juice ; 5 minutes to boil the cherries the
second time.

Average cost for this quantity, 3s. 6c/.

Seasonable. -^-Moke this in July or August.

BLACK-CURRANT JAM.

153°- Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit, weighed before being
stripped from the stalks, allow % lb. of loaf sugar, 1 gill of water.

Mode. — Let the fruit be very ripe, and gathered on a dry day.
Strip it from the stalks, and put it into a preserving-pan, with a gill
of water to each lb. of fruit ; boil these together for 10 minutes; then
add the sugar, and boil the jam again for 30 minutes, reckoning from the
time when the jam simmers equally all over, or longer, should it not
appear to set nicely when a little is poured on to a plate. Keep stirring
it to prevent it from burning, carefully remove all the scum, and when
done, pour it into pots. Let it cool, cover the top of the jam with oiled
paper, and the top of the jars with a piece of tissue-paper brushed
over on both sides with the white of an egg : this, when cold, forms
a hard stiff cover, and perfectly excludes the air. Great attention
must be paid to the stirring of this jam, as it is very liable to burn, on
account of the thickness of the juice.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the fruit and water ; 30 minutes with the
sugar, or longer.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

771

Average cost, from 6 d. to 8c/. for a pot capable of holding; 1 lb.

Sufficient.— Allow from 6 to 7 quarts of currants to make 1 dozen
pots of jam, each pot to hold 1 lb.

Seasonable. — Make this in July.

black-curb, aet jelly.

1531. Ingredients. — Black currants; to every pint of juice allow
^ pint of water, 1 lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Strip the currants from the stalks, which may be done in
an expeditious manner, by holding the bunch in one hand, and passing
a small silver fork down the currants : they will then readily fall
from the stalks. Put them into a jar, place this jar in a saucepan of
boiling water, and simmer them until their juice is extracted ; then
strain them, and to every pint of juice allow the above proportion of
sugar and water ; stir these ingredients together cold until the sugar
is dissolved ; place the preserving-pan on the fire, and boil the jelly
for about § hour, reckoning from the time it commences to boil all
over, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. If the jelly becomes
firm when a little is put on a plate, it is done ; it should then be put
into small pots, and covered the same as the jam in the preceding
recipe. If the jelly is wanted very clear, the fruit should not be
squeezed dry; but, of course, so much juice will not be obtained.
If the fruit is not much squeezed, it may be converted into a jam for
immediate eating, by boiling it vyith a little common sugar : this
answers very well for a nursery preserve.

Time. — About f hour to extract the juice ; i hour to boil the jelly.

Average cost, from Sd. to 10c/. per i-lb. pot.

Sufficient. — From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield a pint
of juice.

Seasonable. — Make this in July.

SED-CURBAWT JAM.

1532. Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit allow fib. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Let the fruit be gathered on a fine day ; weigh it, and then
strip the currants from the stalks ; put them into
a preserving-pan with sugar in the above propor-
tion ; stir them, and boil them for about 3 hour.

Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Put the jam
into pots, and, when cold, cover with oiled papers ;
over these put a piece of tissue-paper brushed over
on both sides with the white of an egg ; press the
paper round the top of the pot, and, when dry, the
covering will be quite hard and air-tight.

3 d 2

JAM-POT.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

772

Time.— i to £ hour, reckoning from the time the jam boils all over.

Average cost, for a lb. pot, from 6 d. to 8 d.

Sufficient. — Allow from G to 7 quarts of currants to make 12 1-lb.
pots of jam.

Seasonable. — Make this in July.

i ,

RED-CURRANT JELLY.

1533- Ingredients. — Red currants; to every pint of juice allow
§ lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Have the fruit gathered in fine weather ; pick it from the
.stalks, put it into a jar, and place this jar in a saucepan of boiling
water over the fire, and let it simmer gently until the juice is well
drawn from the currants ; then strain them through a jelly-bag or fine
cloth, and, if the jelly is wished very clear, do not squeeze them too
much, as the skin and pulp from the fruit will be pressed through with
thejuice, and so make the jelly muddy. Measure the juice, and to each
pint allow f lb. of loaf sugar ; put these into a preserving-pan, set it
over the fire, and keep stirring the jelly until it is done, carefully
removing every particle of scum as it rises, using a wooden or silver
spoon for the purpose, as metal or iron ones would spoil the colour of
the jelly. When it has boiled from 20 minutes to £ hour, put a little
of the jelly on a plate, and if firm when cool, it is done. Take it off
the fire, pour it into small gallipots, cover each of the pots with an
oiled paper, and then with a piece of tissue-paper brushed over on
both sides with the white of an egg. Label the pots, adding the year
when the jelly was made, and store it away in a dry place. A jam
may be made with the currants, if they are not squeezed too dry, by
adding a few fresh raspberries, and boiling all together, with sufficient
sugar to sweeten it nicely. As this preserve is not worth storing away,
but is only for immediate eating, a smaller proportion of sugar than
usual will be found enough : it answers very well for children’s pud-
dings, or for a nursery preserve.

Time. — From f to 1 hour to extract the juice ; 20 minutes to J hour
to boil the jelly.

Average cost, from 8 d. to 10A per ^-lb. pot.

Sufficient. — 8 quarts of currants will make from 10 to 12 pots ofjelly.

Seasonable. — Make this in July.

Note. — Should the above proportion of sugar not be found sufficient for
some tastes, add an extra $ lb. to every pint of juice, making altogether 1 lb.

WHITE-CURRANT JELLY.

1534. Ingredients. — White currants; to every pint of juice allow
f lb. of good loaf sugar.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

773

Mode. — Pick the currants from the stalks, and put them into a jar ;
place this jar in a saucepan of boiling; water, and simmer until the
juice is well drawn from the fruit, which will be in from f to 1 hour.
Then strain the currants through a fine cloth or jelly-bag ; do not
squeeze them too much, or the jelly will not be clear, and put the juice
into a very clean preserving-pan, with the sugar. Let this simmer
gently over a clear fire until it is firm, and keep stirring and
skimming until it is done ; then pour it into small pots, cover them,
and store away in a dry place.

Time. — § hour to draw the juice ; 4 hour to boil the jelly.

Average cost, from 8 d. to 10c/. per 7,-lb. pot.

Sufficient. — From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint
of juice.

Seasonable in July and August.

BAKED DAMSONS FOB WINTEB USE.

1535. Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit allow 6 oz. of pounded
sugar ; melted mutton suet.

Mode. — Choose sound fruit, not too ripe ; pick off the stalks, weigh
it, and to every lb. allow the above proportion of poundecj. sugar. Put
the fruit into large dry stone jars, sprinkling the sugar amongst it;
cover the jars with saucers, place them in a rather cool oven, and bake
the fruit until it is quite tender. When cold, cover the top of the
fruit with a piece of white paper cut to the size of the jar; pour
over this melted mutton suet about an inch thick, and cover the tops
of the jars with thick brown paper, well tied down. Keep the jars in
a cool dry place, and the fruit will remain good till the following
Christmas, but not much longer.

Time. — From 5 to 6 hours to bake the damsons, in a very cool oven.

Seasonable in September and October.

DAMSON CHEESE.

1536. Ingredients. — Damsons; to every lb. of fruit pulp allow
•5 lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Pick the stalks from the damsons, and put them into a
preserving-pan ; simmer them over the fire until they are soft, occa-
sionally stirring them ; then beat them through a coarse sieve, and
put the pulp and juice into the preserving-pan, with sugar in the
above proportion, having previously carefully weighed them. Stir
the sugar well in, and simmer the damsons slowly for 2 hours.
Skim well ; then boil the preserve quickly for 4 hour, or until it
looks firm and hard in the spoon ; put it quickly into shallow pots,

77-i

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

or very tiny earthenware moulds, and, when cold, cover it with oiled
papers, and the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides
with the white of an egg. A few of the stones may he cracked, and
the kernels boiled with the damsons, which very much improves the
flavour of the cheese.

Time.— 1 hour to boil the damsons without the sugar ; 2 hours to
simmer them slowly, i hour quickly.

Average cost, from 8 d. to 10 d. per j-lb. pot.

Sufficient. — 1 pint of damsons to make a very small pot of cheese.

Seasonable. — Make this in September or October.

COMPOTE OE DAMSONS.

1537- Ingredients.— 1 quart of damsons, 1 pint of syrup Xo. 1512.

Mode. — Procure sound ripe damsons ; pick the stalks from them,
and put them into boiling syrup, made by recipe Xo. 1512. Simmer
them gently until the fruit is tender, but not sufficiently soft to
break ; take them up, boil the syrup for 5 minutes ; pour it over the
damsons, and serve. This should be sent to table in a glass dish.

Time. — About j hour to simmer the damsons ; 5 minutes to boil the
syrup.

Average cost, 9 cl.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in September and October.

DAMSON JAM.

1538. Ingredients. — Damsons ; to every lb. of fruit allow % lb. of
loaf sugar.

Mode. — Have the fruit gathered in dry weather ; pick it over, and
reject any that is at all blemished. Stone the damsons, weigh them,
and to every lb. allow % lb. of loaf sugar. Put the fruit and sugar
into a preserving-pan ; keep stirring them gently until the sugar is
dissolved, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Boil the jam for
about an hour, reckoning from the time it commences to simmer all
over alike : it must be well stirred all the time, or it will be liable to
burn and stick to the pan, which will cause the jam to have a very
disagreeable flavour. When the jam looks firm, and the juice appears
to set, it is done. Then take it off the fire, put into pots, cover it down,
when quite cold, with oiled and egged papers, the same as in recipe
Xo. 1530, and store it away in a dry place.

Time. — 1 hour after the jam simmers all over.

Average cost, from 6 d. to 8 d. per lb. pot.

Sufficient— lb pint of damsons for a lb. pot.

Seasonable. — Make this in September or October.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

775

A VERY NICE PRESERVE OP DAMSONS.

1539. Ingredients.— To every quart of damsons allow I lb. of loaf
sugar.

Mode. — Put the damsons (which should be picked from the
stalks and quite free from blemishes) into a jar, with pounded
sugar sprinkled amongst them in the above proportion; tie the jar
closely down, set it in a saucepan of cold water ; bring it gradually to
boil, and simmer gently until the damsons are soft, ’without being
broken. Let them stand till cold; then strain the juice from them,
boil it up well, strain it through a jelly-bag, and pour it over the
fruit. Let it cool, cover with oiled papers, and the jars with tissue-
paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg, and store
away in a dry cool place.

Time. — About § hour to simmer the fruit after the water boils ;
5 hour to boil the juice.

Seasonable. — Make this in September or October.

TO PRESERVE DAMSONS, OR ANY KIND OP PLUMS.

{Useful in Winter.)

154°. Ingredients. — Damsons or plums ; boiling water.

Mode. — Pick the fruit into clean dry stone jars, taking care to leave
out all that are broken or blemished. When full, pour boiliDg water
on the plums, until it stands one inch above the fruit ; cut a piece of
paper to fit the inside of the jar, over which pour melted mutton-suet ;
cover down with brown paper, and keep the jars in a dry cool place.
When used, the suet should be removed, the water poured off, and
the jelly at the bottom of the jar used and mixed with the fruit.

Seasonable in September and October.

COMPOTE OP GREEN PIGS.

1541- Ingredients. — 1 pint of syrup Ho. 1512, 1| pint of green
figs, the rind of h lemon.

Mode. Make a syrup by recipe Ho. 1512, boiling with it the lemon-
rind, and carefully remove all the scum
as it rises. Put in the figs, and simmer
them very slowly until tender ; dish
them on a glass dish ; reduce the syrup compote of figs.

by boiling it quickly for 5 minutes ; take out the lemon-peel, pour
the syrup over the figs, and the compote, when cold, will be ready

776

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

for table. A little port wine, or lemon-juice, added just before the figs
are done, will be found an improvement.

Time. — 2 to 3 hours to stew the figs.

Average cost, figs,' 2s. to 3s. per dozen.

Seasonable in August and September.

TO BOTTLE FBESH FRUIT.

( Very useful in Winter.)

1542. Ingredients. — Fresh fruits, such as currants, raspberries,
cherries, gooseberries, plums of all kinds, damsons, &c. ; wide-mouthed
glass bottles, new corks to fit them tightly.

Mode. — Let the fruit be full grown, but not too ripe, and gathered
in dry weather. Pick it off the stalks without bruising or breaking
the skin, and reject any that is at all blemished : if gathered in the
damp, or if the skins are cut at all, the fruit will mould. Have ready
some perfectly dry glass bottles, and some nice new soft corks or
bungs ; burn a match in each bottle, to exhaust the air, and quickly
place the fruit in to be preserved ; gently cork the bottles, and put
them into a very cool oven, where let them remain until the fruit has
shrunk away a fourth part. Then take the bottles out ; do not open
them, but immediately beat the corks in tight, cut off the tops, and
cover them with melted resin. If kept in a dry place, the fruit
will remain good for months ; and on this principally depends the
success of the preparation ; for if stored away in a place that is in the
least damp, the fruit will soon spoil.

Time. — From 5 to 6 hours in a very slow oven.

1543. Ingredients. — Any kind of fresh fruit, such as currants,
cherries, gooseberries, all kinds of plums, &c. ; wide-mouthed glass
bottles, new corks to fit them tightly.

Mode. — The fruit must be full-grown, not too ripe, and gathered
on a fine day. Let it be carefully picked and put into the bottles,
which must be clean and perfectly dry. Tie over the tops of the bot-
tles pieces of bladder ; stand the bottles in a large pot, copper, or
boiler, with cold water to reach to their necks ; kindle a fire under,
let the water boil, and as the bladders begin to rise and puff, prick
them. As soon as the water boils, extinguish the fire, and let the
bottles remain where they are, to become cold. The next day remove
the bladders, and strew over the fruit a thick layer of pounded sugar ;
fit the bottles with corks, and let each cork lie close at hand to its
own bottle. Hold for a few moments, in the neck of the bottle, two

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

777

or three lighted, matches, and when they have filled the bottle neck
with gas, and before they go out, remove them very quickly ; instantly
cork the bottle closely, and dip it in bottle cement.

Time. — Altogether about 8 hours.

TO BOTTLE FRESH FRUIT WITH SUGAR.

(V ery useful in Winter.)

1544. Ingredients. — Any kind of fresh fruit; to each quart bottle
allow j lb. of pounded sugar.

Mode. — Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather. Pick it carefully,
and drop it into clean and very dry quart glass bottles, sprinkling
over it the above proportion of pounded sugar to each quart. Put the
corks in the bottles, and place them in a copper of cold water up to
their necks, with small hay-wisps round them, to prevent the bottles
from knocking together. Light the fire under, bring the water gradu-
ally to boil, and let it simmer gently until the fruit in the bottles is
reduced nearly one third. Extinguish the fire, and let the bottles remain
in the icater until it is perfectly cold ; then take them out, make the
corks secure, and cover them with melted resin or wax.

Time. — About 1 hour from the time the water commences to boil.

TO FROST HOLLY-LEAVES, for garnishing and decorating
Dessert and Supper Dishes.

1545- — Ingredients.— Sprigs of holly, oiled butter, coarsely-pow-
dered sugar.

Mode. — Procure some nice sprigs of hcflly ; pick the leaves from the
stalks, and wipe them with a clean cloth free from all moisture ; then
place them on a dish near the fire, to get thoroughly dry, but not too
near to shrivel the leaves ; dip them into oiled butter, sprinkle over
them some coarsely-powdered sugar, and dry them before the fire.
They should be kept in a dry place, as the least damp would spoil
their appearance.

Time. — About lOminutes to dry before the fire.

Seasonable. — These may be made at any time ; but are more suitable
for winter garnishes, when fresh fiowers are not easily obtained.

COMPOTE OF GOOSEBERRIES.

1546. Ingredients.— Syrup made by recipe No. 1512; to 1 pint of
syrup allow nearly a quart of gooseberries.

Mode. — Top and tail the gooseberries, which should not be very
ripe, and pour over them some boiling water ; then take them out,
and plunge them into cold water, with which has been mixed a table-

77S

MODERN nOUSEHOED COOKERY.

spoonful of vinegar, which will assist to keep the fruit a good colour.
Make a pint of syrup hy recipe No. 1512, and when it boils, drain the
gooseberries and put them in ; simmer them gently until the fruit is
nicely pulped and tender, without being broken ; then dish the goose-
berries on a glass dish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, pour over
the gooseberries, and serve cold.

Time. — About 5 minutes to boil the gooseberries in the syrup ;
3 minutes to reduce the syrup.

Average cost, 9d.

Sufficient, — a quart of gooseberries for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable in June.

GOOSEBERRY JAM.

1547- Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit allow 'lib. of loaf sugar;
currant-juice.

Mode. — Select red hairy gooseberries ; have them gathered in dry
weather, when quite ripe, without being too soft. Weigh them ; with
a pair of scissors, cut off the tops and tails, and to every 6 lbs. of fruit
have ready 4 pint of red-currant juice, drawn as for jelly. Put the
gooseberries and currant-juice into a preserving-pan ; let them boil
tolerably quickly, keeping them well stirred ; when they begin to i
break, add to them the sugar, and keep simmering until the jam
becomes firm, carefully skimming and stirring it, that it does not burn
at the bottom. It should be boiled rather a long time, or it will not
keep. Put it into pots (not* too large) ; let it get perfectly cold ; then
cover the pots down with oiled and egged papers, as directed for red-
currant jelly No. 1533.

Time. — About 1 hour to boil the gooseberries in the currant-juice ;
from | to f hour with the sugar.

Average cost, per lb. pot, from Gd. to 8 d.

Sufficient. — Allow 1| pint of fruit for a lb. pot.

Seasonable. — Make this in June or July.

ii.

1548. Ingredients. — To every 8 lbs. of red, rough, ripe gooseberries
allow 1 quart of red-currant juice, 5 lbs. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Have the fruit gathered in dry weather, and cut off the tops
and tails. Prepare 1 quart of red-currant juice, the same as for red-
currant jelly No. 1533 ; put it into a preserving-pan with the sugar,
and keep stirring until the latter is dissolved. Keep it boiling for
about 5 minutes ; skim well ; then put in the gooseberries, and let

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

779

them boil from i to 3 hour ; then turn the whole into an earthen pan,
and let it remain for 2 days. Boil the jam up again until it looks
clear ; put it into pots, and when cold, cover witli oiled paper, and
over the jars put tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the
white of an egg, and store away in a dry place. Care must be taken,
in making this, to keep the jam well stirred and well skimmed, to
prevent it burning at the bottom of the pan, and to have it very clear.

Time. — 5 minutes to boil the currant-j nice and sugar after the latter
is dissolved ; from -5 to f hour to simmer the gooseberries the first time,
i hour the second time of boiling.

Average cost, from 8c?. to 10 <7. per lb. pot.

Sufficient. — Allow 1$ pint of fruit for a lb. pot.

Seasonable. — Make this in June or July.

WHITE OR GREEK GOOSEBERRY JAM.

1549. Ingredients.— Equal weight of fruit and sugar.

Mode. — Select the gooseberries not very ripe, either white or green,
and top and tail them. Boil the sugar with water (allowing \ pint
to every lb.) for about f hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises ;
then put in the gooseberries, and simmer gently till clear and firm :
try a little of the jam on a plate ; if it jellies when cold, it is done,
and should then be poured into pots. When cold, cover with oiled
paper, and tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the unbeaten
white of an egg, and store away in a dry place.

Time. — 3 hour to boil the sugar and water, f hour the jam.

Average cost, from 6d. to 8 d. per lb. pot.

Sufficient. — Allow 1| pint of fruit for a lb. pot.

Seasonable. — Make this in June.

GOOSEBERRY JELLY.

1550. Ingredients.— Gooseberries ; to every pint of juice allow fib.
of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Put the gooseberries, after cutting off the tops and tails, into
a preserving-pan, and stir them over the fire until they are quite soft ;
then strain them through a sieve, and to every pint of juice allow fib.
of sugar. Boil the juice and sugar together for nearly f hour, stirring
and skimming all the time ; and if the jelly appears firm when a little
of it is poured on to a plate, it is done, and should then be taken
up and put into small pots. Cover the pots with oiled and egged
papers, the same as for currant jelly No. 1533, and store away in a
dry place.

780

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — f hour to simmer the gooseberries without the sugar ; l hour
to boil the juice.

Average cost, from 8 d. to lOcZ. per 1-lb. pot.

Seasonable in July.

COMPOTE OP GREENGAGES.

1551. Ingredients. — 1 pint of syrup made by recipe No. 1512,

1 quart of greengages.

Mode. — Make a syrup by recipe- No. 1512, skim it well, and put in
the greengages when the syrup is boiling, having previously removed
the stalks and stones from the fruit. Boil gently for \ hour, or until
the fruit is tender ; but take care not to let it break, as the appearance j
of the dish would be spoiled were the fruit reduced to a pulp. Take
the greengages carefully out, place them on a glass dish, boil the
syrup for another 5 minutes, let it cool a little, pour over the fruit,
and, when cold, it will be ready for use.

Time. — j hour to simmer the fruit, 5 minutes the syrup.

Average cost, in full season, l(kZ.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

Seasonable in July, August, and September.

GREENGAGE JAM.

J552. Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit, weighed before being
stoned, allow % lb. of lump sugar.

3fode. — Divide the greengages, take out the stones, and put them
into a preserving-pan. Bring the fruit to a boil, then add the sugar,
and keep stirring it over a gentle lire until it is melted. Itemove all
the scum as it rises, and, just before the jam is done, boil it rapidly
for 5 minutes. To ascertain when it is sufficiently boiled, pour a little
on a plate, and if the syrup thickens and appears firm, it is done.
Have ready half the kernels blanched; put them into the jam,'
give them one boil, and pour the preserve into pots. When cold, cover
down with oiled papers, and, over these, tissue-paper brushed over on
both sides with the white of an egg.

Time. — § hour after the sugar is added.

Average cost, from Gd. to 8 d. per lb. pot.

Sufficient. — Allow about lA pint of fruit for every lb. pot of jam.

Seasonable. — Make this in August or September.

TO PRESERVE AND DRY GREENGAGES.

1553. Ingredients.— To every lb. of sugar allow 1 lb. of fruit,

5 pint of water.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

7S1

Mode. — For this purpose, the fruit must be used before it is quite
ripe, and part of the stalk must he left on. "Weigh the fruit, reject-
ing all that is in the least degree blemished, and put it into a lined
saucepan with the sugar and water, which should have been pre-
viously boiled together to a rich syrup. Boil the fruit in this for
10 minutes, remove it from the fire, and drain the greengages. Thp
next day, boil up the syrup and put in the fruit again, and let it
simmer for 3 minutes, and drain the syrup away. Continue this pro-
cess for 5 or 6 days, and the last time place the greengages, when
drained, on a hair sieve, and put them in an oven or warm spot to
dry ; keep them in a box, with paper between each layer, in a place
free from damp.

Time. — 10 minutes the first time of boiling.

Seasonable. — Make this in August or September.

i "»

PRESERVED GREENGAGES IN SYRUP.

1554. Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit allow lib. of loaf sugar
4 pint of water.

Mode. — Boil the sugar and water together for about 10 minutes ;
divide the greengages, take out the stones, put the fruit into the syrup,
and let it simmer gently until nearly tender. Take it off the fire, put
it into a large pan, and, the next day, boil it up again for about 10
minutes with the kernels from the stones, which should be blanched.
Put the fruit carefully into jars, pour over it the syrup, and, when
cold, cover down, so that the air is quite excluded. Let the syrup be
well skimmed both the first and second day of boiling, otherwise it
will not be clear.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the syrup ; 5 hour to simmer the fruit the
first day, 10 minutes the second day.

Average cost, from 6d. to 8 d. per lb. pot.

Sufficient— Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. pot.

Seasonable. — Make this in August or September.

TO MAKE ERUIT ICE-CREAMS.

1555. Ingredients.— To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of
cream ; sugar to taste.

Mode. — Let the fruit be well ripened.; pick it off the stalks, and put
it into a large earthen pan. Stir it about with a wooden spoon, break-
ing it until it is well mashed ; then, with the back of the spoon,
rub it through a hair sieve. Sweeten it nicely with pounded sugar ;
whip the cream for a few minutes, add it to the fruit, and whisk the
whole again for another 5 minutes. Put the mixture into the freezing-

782

modern nousEnorja cookery.

pot, and freeze in the same manner as directed for Ice Padding,
Ho. 1290, taking care to stir the cream, &e., two or three times, and
to remove it from the sides of the vessel, that the mixture may he
equally frozen and smooth. Ices are usually served in glasses, but if
moulded, as they sometimes are for dessert, must have a small quan-
tity of melted isinglass added to them, to enable them to keep their
shape. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, and all fruit ice-creams, are
made in the same manner. A little pounded sugar sprinkled over the
fruit before it is mashed assists to extract the juice. In winter, when
fresh fruit is not obtainable, a little jam may be substituted for it : it
should be melted and worked through a sieve before being added to
the whipped cream ; and if the colour should not be good, a little pre-
pared cochineal or beetroot may be put in to improve its appearance.

Time. — 1 hour to freeze the mixture.

Average cost, with cream at Is. per pint, id. each ice.

Seasonable, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August.

TO MAKE E REIT -WATER. ICES.

1 556., Ingredients. — To every pint of fruit-juice allow 1 pint of
syrup made by recipe Ho. 1513.

Mode. — Select nice ripe fruit ; pick off the stalks, and put it into a
large earthen pan, with a little pounded sugar strewed over; stir it

about with a wooden spoon until it is
well broken, then rub it through a
hair sieve. Make the syrup by recipe
Ho. 1513, omitting the white of the egg ;
dish or ices. let it cool, add the fruit-juice, mix well

together, and put the mixture into the freezing -pot. Proceed as
directed for Ice Puddings, Ho. 1290, and when the mixture is equally
frozen, put it into small glasses. Raspberry, strawberry, currant,
and other fres"h-fruit-water ices, are made in the same manner.

Time— l hour to freeze the mixture.

Average cost, 3 d. to id. each.

Seasonable, with fresh fruit, in June, July, and August.

LEMON-WATER ICE.

1557. Ingredients. — To every pint of syrup, made by recipe
Ho. 1513, allow £ pint of lemon-juice ; the rind of 4 lemons.

Mode. — Rub the sugar on the rinds of the lemons, and with it make
the syrup by recipe Ho. 1513, omitting the white of egg. Strain the
lemon-juice, add it to the other ingredients, stir well, and put the
mixture into a freezing-pot. Freeze as directed for Ice Pudding, Ho.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

783

1290, and, when the mixture is thoroughly and equally frozen, put it
into ice-glasses.

Time. — \ hour to freeze the mixture. Average cost, 3d. to id. each.

Seasonable at any time.

ICED CURRANTS, for Dessert.

1558. Ingredients.— i pint of water, the whites of 2 eggs, currants,
pounded sugar.

Mode. — Select very fine hunches of red or white currants, and well
heat the whites of the eggs. Mix these with the water ; then take the
currants, a hunch at a time, and dip them in ; let them drain for a
minute or two, and roll them in very fine pounded sugar. Lay them
to dry on paper, when the sugar will crystallize round each currant,
and have a very pretty effect. All fresh fruit may he prepared in the
same manner ; and a mixture of various fruits iced in this manner,
and arranged on one dish, looks very well for a summer dessert.

Time. — 4 day to dry the fruit.

Average cost, 8 d. for a pint of iced currants. Seasonable in summer.

MELONS.

1559. This fruit is rarely preserved or cooked in any way, ancL
should he sent to table on a dish garnished with leaves or flowers, as
fancy dictates. A border of any other kind of small fruit, arranged
round the melon, has a pretty effect, the colour of the former contrast-
ing nicety with the melon. Plenty of pounded’sugar should be served
with it ; and the fruit should be cut lengthwise, in moderate-sized
slices. In America, it is frequently eaten with pepper and salt.

Average cost, — English, in full season, 3s. 6 d. to 5s. each ; when
scarce, 10s. to 15s.; seasonable, June to August. French, 2s. to 3s. 6 d.
each ; seasonable, June and July. Dutch, 9 d. to 2s. each; seasonableT
July and August.

Melon-.— Tho melon is a most delicious fruit, succulent, cool, and high-flavoured.
With us, it is used only at the dessert, and is generally eaten with Bugar, ginger, or
pepper; but, in France, it is likewise Berved up at dinner as a sauce for boiled meats.
It grows wild in Tartary, and has been lately found in abundance on the sandy plains of
Jeypoor. It was brought originally from Asia by the Romans, and is said to have been
common in England in the time of Edward III., though it is supposed that it was lost
again, as well as the cucumber, during the wars of York and Lancaster. The best kind,
called the Cantaloupe, from the name of a place near Rome where it was first cultivated
in Europe, is a native of Armenia, where it growB so plentifully that a horse-load may be
bought for a crown.

„ PRESERVED MULBERRIES.

1560. Ingredients— To 2 lbs. of fruit and 1 pint of juice allow
2\ lbs. of loaf sugar.

il/ocfe.-Put some of the fruit into a preserving-pan, and simmer it
gently until the juice is well drawn. Strain it through a bag, mea-

7S4

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

sure it, and to every pint allow the above proportion of sugar and
fruit. Put the sugar into the preserving-pan, moisten it with the
juice, boil it up, skim well, and then add the mulberries, which should
he ripe, but not soft enough to break to a pulp. Let them stand in the
syrup till warm through, then set them on the fire to boil gently ;
'when half done, turn them carefully into an earthen pan, and let them
remain till the next day ; then boil them as before, and when the
syrup is thick, and becomes firm when cold, put the preserve into
pots. In making this, care should be taken not to break the mul-
berries : this may be avoided by very gentle stirring, and by simmer-
ing the fruit very slowly.

TO PRESERVE MOB3LLO CHERRIES.

1561. Ingredients.— To every lb. of cherries allow U lb. of sugar,
1 gill of water.

Mode. — Select ripe cherries ; pick off the stalks, and reject all that
have any blemishes. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes ;
put in the cherries, and boil them for 10 minutes, removing the scum
as it rises. Then turn the fruit, &c. into a pan, and let it remain
until the next day, when boil it all again for another 10 minutes,
and, if necessary, skim well. Put the cherries into small pots ; pour
over them the syrup, and, when cold, cover down with oiled papers,
and the tops of the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides
with the white of an egg, and keep in. a dry place.

Time. — Altogether, 25 minutes to boil.

Average cost, from 8 d. to 10c/. per lb. pot.

Time. — 3 hour to extract the juice ;
3 hour to boil the mulberries the first
time, 5 hour the second time.

Seasonable in August and September.

MULBEBBT.

Mclbebbt. — Mulberries are esteemed for their
highly aromatic llavour, and their sub-acid nature.
They are considered as cooling, laxative, and generally
wholesome. This fruit was very highly esteemed by
the Romans, who appear to have preferred it to every
other. The mnlberrv-tree is stated to have been in-
troduced into this country in 1518, being first planted
at Sion Uou3e, where the original trees still thrive.
The planting of them was much encouraged by King
James I. about 1605 ; and considerable attempts were
made at that time to rear silkworms on a large scale
for the purpose of making silk ; but these endeavours
have always failed, the climate being scarcely warm
enough.

lU8, ., „ --

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

785

at first how to appreciate this present as it deserved ; for the cherry-tree was propagated
so slowly in Italy, that more than a century after its introduction it was far from being
generally cultivated. The Romans distinguished three principal species of cherries— the
Apronian, of a bright red, with a firm and delicate pulp ; the Lutat.ian, very black and
sweet ; the Cacilian, round and stubby, and much esteemed. The cherry embellished
the third course in Rome and the second at Athens.

PRESERVED NECTARINES.

1562. Ingredients.— To every lb. of sugar allow i pint of water ;
nectarines.

Mode. — Divide the nectarines in two, take out the stones, and make
a strong syrup with sugar and water in the above proportion. Put in
the nectarines, and boil them until they have thoroughly imbibed the
sugar. Keep the fruit as whole as possible, and turn it carefully into
a pan. The next day boil it again for a few, minutes, take out the
nectarines, put them into jars, boil the syrup quickly for 5 minutes,
pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, cover the preserve down. The
syrup and preserve must be carefully skimmed, or it will not be clear.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the sugar and water ; 20 minutes to boil
the fruit the first time, 10 minutes the second time ; 5 minutes to boil
the syrup.

Seasonable in August and September, but cheapest in September.

STEWED NORMANDY PIPPINS.

1563- Ingredients. — 1 lb. of Normandy pippins, 1 quart of water,
i teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, £ teaspoonful of ground ginger,
1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lemon.

Mode. — Well wash the pippins, and put them into 1 quart of water
with the above proportion of cinnamon and ginger, and let them stand
12 hours ; then put these all together into a stewpan, with the lemon
sliced thinly, and half the moist sugar. Let them boil slowly until the
pippins are half done ; then add the remainder of the sugar, and sim-
mer until they are quite tender. Serve on glass dishes for dessert.

Time. — 2 to 3 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Seasonable. — Suitable for a winter dish.

ICED ORANGES.

1564. Ingredients. — Oranges; to every lb. of pounded loaf sugar
allow the whites of 2 eggs.

Mode. — Whisk the whites of the eggs well, stir in the sugar, and
beat this mixture for £ hour. Skin the oranges, remove as much of
the white pith as possible without injuring the pulp of the fruit ; pass
a thread through the centre of each orange, dip them into the sugar,
-and tie them to a stick. Place this stick across the oven, and let the

3 E

786

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

oranges remain until dry, when they will have the appearance of balls
of ice. They make a pretty dessert or supper dish. Care must be
taken not to have the oven toe fierce, or the oranges would scorch and
acquire a brown colour, which would entirely spoil their appearance.

Time. — From § to 1 hour to dry in a moderate oven.

Average cost, lid. each.

Sufficient. — l lb. of sugar to ice 12 oranges.

Seasonable from November to May.

The First Obange-tbee in France.— The first Orange-tree cultivated in the centre
of France was to be seen a few years ago at Fontainebleau. It was called Le Connitable
(the Constable), because it had belonged to the ConmStable de Bourbon, and had been
confiscated, together with all property belonging to that prince, after his revolt against
his sovereign.

COMPOTE OP ORANGES.

COAlroIE OF ORANGES.

1565. Ingredients.— 1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 6 oranges.

Mode.— Peel the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as pos-
sible, and divide them into small pieces without breaking the thin

skin with which they are surrounded.
Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, adding
the rind of the orange cut into thin
narrow strips. When the syrup has been
well skimmed, and is quite clear, put in
the pieces of orange, and simmer them for 5 minutes. Take them out
carefully with a spoon without breaking them, and arrange them on a
glass dish. Reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly until thick ; let it
cool a little, pour it over the oranges, and, when cold, they will be
ready for table.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the syrup ;
oranges ; 5 minutes to reduce the syrup.

Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from November to May.

5 minutes to simmer the

The Orange in Portugal. — Tbe Orange known under the name of “ Portugal
Orange” comes originally from China. Not more than two centuries ago, the Portuguese
brought thence the first scion, which has multiplied so prodigiously that we now see
entire forests of orange-trees in Portugal.

Oeange and Cloves. — It appears to have been the custom formerly, in England, to
make new year’s presents with oranges stuck full with cloves. We read in one of Ben
Jonson’s pieces, — the “Christinas Masque,” — “He has an orange and rosemary, but not
a clove to stick in it.”

% ORANGE MARMALADE.

1566. Ingredients. — Equal weight of fine loaf sugar and Seville
oranges ; to 12 oranges allow 1 pint of water.

Mode— Let there be an equal weight of loaf sugar and Seville

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

7S7

oranges, and allow the above proportion of water to every dozen
oranges. Peel them carefully, remove a little of the white pith, and
boil the rinds in water 2 hours, changing the water three times to take
off a little of the bitter taste. Break the pulp into small pieces, take
out all the pips, and cut the boiled rind into chips. Make a syrup with
the sugar and water ; boil this well, skim it, ap.d, when clear, put in the
pulp and chips. Boil all together from 20 minutes to l hour ; pour it
into pots, and, when cold, cover down with bladders or tissue-paper
brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg. The juice and
grated rind of 2 lemons to every dozen of oranges, added with the
pulp and chips to the syrup, are a very great improvement to this
marmalade.

. Time. — 2 hours to boil the1 orange-rinds ; 10 minutes to boil the
syrup ; 20 minutes to i hour to boil the marmalade.

Average cost, from 6 cl. to Sd. per lb. pot.

' Seasonable . — This should be made in March or April, as Seville
oranges are then in perfection.

ir.

1567. Ingredients.— Equal weight of Seville oranges and sugar ;
to every lb. of sugar allow f pint of water.

Mode.— Weigh the sugar and oranges, score the skin across, and take
it off in quarters. Boil these quarters in a muslin bag in water until
they are quite soft, and they can be pierced easily with the head of a pin ;
then cut them into chips about 1, inch long, and as thin as possible.
Should there be a great deal of white stringy pulp, remove it before cut-
ting the rind into chips. Split open the oranges, scrape out the best
part of the pulp, with the juice, rejecting the white pith and pips. Make
a syrup with the sugar and water ; boil it until clear ; then put in >
the chips, pulp, and j uice, and boil the marmalade from 20 minutes
to 3 hour, removing all the scum as it rises. In boiling the syrup,
clear it carefully from scum before the oranges are added to it.

Time. — 2 hour’s to boil the rinds, 10 minutes the syrup, 20 minutes
to i hour the marmalade.

Average cost, 6 d. to Sd. per lb. pot.

Seasonable. — Make this in March or April, when Seville oranges are
in perfection.

AN EASY WAY OP MAKING ORANGE MARMALADE.

1568. Ingredients. — To every lb. of pulp allow li lb. ofloaf sugar.
Mode.— Choose some fine ’Seville oranges ; put them whole into a

stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and stew them until

3 e 2

788

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

they become perfectly tender, changing the water 2 or 3 times ; drain
them, take off the rind, remove the pips from the pulp, weigh it, and
to every lb. allow lj of loaf sugar and £ pint of the water the oranges
were last boiled in. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes ;
put in. the pulp, boil for another 10 minutes ; then add the peel cut
into strips, and boil the marmalade for another 10 minutes, which
completes the process. Pour it into jars ; let it cool ; then cover down
with bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the
white of an egg.

Time. — 2 hours to boil the oranges ; altogether i hour to boil the
marmalade.

Average cost, from 6(7. to 8 cl. per lb. pot.

Seasonable. — Make this in March or April.

ORANGE MARMALADE MADE WITH HONEY.

1569. Ingredients. — To 1 quart of the juice and pulp of Seville j
oranges allow 2 lbs. of honey, 1 lb. of the rind.

Mode. — Peel the oranges and boil the rind in water until tender,
and cut it into strips. Take away the pips from the juice and pulp,
and put it with the honey and chips into a preserving-pan ; boil all
together for about k hour, or until the marmalade is of the proper
consistency ; put it into pots, and, when cold, cover down with
bladders.

Time.— 2 hours to boil the rind, \ hour the marmalade.

Average cost, from 7 d. to 9(7. per lb. pot.

Seasonable. — Make this in March or April.

TO PRESERVE ORANGES.

1570. Ingredients.— Oranges ; to every lb. of juice and pulp allow
2 lbs. of loaf sugar ; to every pint of water j lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Wholly grate or peel the oranges, taking off only the thin
outside portion of the rind. Make a small incision where the stalk is
taken out, squeeze out as much of the juice as can be obtained, and
preserve it in a basin with the pulp that accompanies it. Put the
oranges into cold water ; let them stand for 3 days, changing the
water twice ; then boil them in fresh water till they are very tender,
and put'thcm to drain. Make a syrup with the above proportion of
sugar and water, sufficient to cover the oranges ; let them stand in it
for 2 or 3\days ; then drain them well. Weigh the juice and pulp,
allow double their weight of sugar, and boil them together until the
scum ceases to rise, which must all be carefully removed ; put in the

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

789

oranges, boil them for 10 minutes, place them in jars, pour over them
the syrup, and, when cold, cover down. They will be fit for use in

a week. - .

Time— 3 days for the oranges to remain in water, 3 days m the
syrup ; i hour to boil the pulp, 10 minutes the oranges.

' Seasonable. — This preserve should be made in February or March,
when oranges are plentiful.

OSABTG3 SALAD.

1571. Incitements. — 6 oranges, 5 lb. of muscatel raisins, 2 oz. of
pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

Mode— Peel 5 of the pranges ; divide them into slices without
breaking the pulp, and arrange them on a glass dish. Stone the
raisins, mix them with the sugar and brandy, and mingle them with
the oranges. Squeeze the juice of the other orange over the whole,
and the dish is ready for table. A little pounded spice may be put in
when the flavour is liked ; but this ingredient must be added very
sparingly.

-Average cost, Is. / '

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

Seasonable from November to May.

COMPOTE OP PEACHES.

157-2. Ingredients. — 1 pint of syrup No. 1512, about 15 small
peaches.

Mode. — Peaches that are not very large, and that would not look well
for dessert, answer very nicely for a compote. Divide the peaches, take
out the stones, and pare the fruit ; make a syrup by recipe No. 1512,
put in the peaches, and stew them gently for about 10 minutes. Take
them out without breaking, arrange them on a glass dish, boil the
syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, let it cool, pour it over the fruit, and, when
cold, it will be ready for table.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average cost, Is. 2d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in August and September.

Peach and Nectarine. — The peach and nectarine, which are among the moat de-
licious of our fruits, are considered as varieties of the same species, ptroduced by culti-
vation. The former is characterized by a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth ;
but, as a proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches on one part and
nectarines on another ; and even a single fruit has had down on one side, and on the other
none : the trees are almost exactly alike, as Well as the blossoms. Pliny states that
the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows naturally. At Montreuil,
a village neur Paris, almost the whole population is employed in the cultivation of peaches ;
and this occupation has maintained the inhabitants for ages, and, in consequence, they
raise better peuches than anywhere else in France. In Maryland and Virginia, peaches
grow nearly wild in orchards resembling forests ; but the fruit is of little value for tlio
r 'table, being employed only in fattening hogs and for the distillation of peach brandy.
On the cast side of the Andes, peaches grow wild among the cornfields and in the moua-

700

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKEEY.

tains, and arc dried as an article of food. Tlie young leaves of the peach are sometimes I
used in eoolcery, from their agreeable flavour ; and a liqueur resembling the flue noyeau )
of Martinique may be made by steeping them in brandy sweetened with sugar and fined
with milk : gin may also be flavoured in the same manner. The kernels of the fruit have 1
the same flavour. The nectarine is said to have received its name from nectar, the I
particular drink of the gods. Though it is considered as the same species as the peach,
it is not known which of the varieties come from the other : the nectarine is by some
considered as the superior fruit.

PEACHES PRESERVED IN' BRANDY.

1573- Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit weighed, before being
stoned, allow j lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar ; brandy.

Mode. — Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather ; wipe and weigh
it, and remove the stones as carefully as possible, without injuring the
peaches much. Put them into a jar, sprinkle amongst them pounded
loaf sugar in the above proportion, and pour brandy over the fruit.
Cover the jar down closely, place it in a saucepan of boiling water
over the fire, and bring the brandy to the simmering-point, but do
not allow it to boil. Take the fruit out carefully, without breaking it ;
put it into small jars, pour over it the brandy, and, when cold, exclude
the air by covering the jars with bladders, or tissue-paper brushed
over on both sides with the white of an egg. Apricots may be done
in the same manner, and, if properly prepared, will be found delicious.

Time. — From 10 to 20 minutes to bring the brandy to the simmer-
ing-point.

Seasonable in August and September.

BAKED PEARS.

1574. Ingredients. — 12 pears, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 cloves, 10,
whole allspice ; to every pint of water allow 4 lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Pare and cut the pears into halves, and, should they be
very large, into quarters ; leave the stalks on, and carefully remove
the cores. Place them in a clean baking-jar, with a closely-fitting
lid ; add to them the lemon-rind cut in strips, the juice of * lemon, the
cloves, pounded allspice, and sufficient water just to cover the whole,
with sugar in the above proportion. Cover the jar down closely, put
it into a very cool oven, and bake the pears from 5 to 6 hours, but be
very careful that the oven is not too hot. To improve the colour of
the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added ; but this
will not be found necessary if the pears are very gently baked.

Time. — Large pears, 5 to 6 hours, in a very slow oven.

Average cost , id. to 2d. each.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Seasonable from September to January.

Peak. — The pear, like the apple, is indigenous to this country ; hut the wild pear is a
very unsatisfactory limit. The best varieties were brought from the East by the Romans,

PRESERVES, CONFECTION ARY, ETC.

7D1

who cultivated them with care, and probably introduced some of their best sorts into
this island, to which others were added by the inhabitants, of the monasteries. The Dutch
and Flemings, as well i*s the French, have excelled in the cultivation of the pear, and
most of the late varieties introduced are from France and Flanders. The pear is a hardy
tree, and a longer liver than the apple : it has been known to exist for centuries. There
are now about 150 varieties of this fruit. Though perfectly wholesome when ripe, the
pear is not so when green ; but in this state it is fit for stewing. An agreeable beverage,
called perry, is made from pears, and the varieties which are least fit for eating make the-
best perry.

PRESERVED PEARS.

1575. Ingredients. — Jargonelle pears ; to every lb. of sugar allow
A pint of water.

Mode. — Procure some Jargonelle pears, not too ripe ; put them into
a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and simmer them till
rather tender, but do not allow them to break ; then put them into
cold water. Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes, skim
well, put in the pears, and simmer them gently for 5 minutes. Repeat
the simmering for 3 successive days, taking care not to let the fruit
break. The last time of boiling, the syrup should be made rather
richer, and the fruit boiled for 10 minutes. When the pears are done,
drain them from the syrup, and dry them in the sun, or in a cool oven ;
or they may be kept in the syrup, and dried as they are wanted.

Time. — i hour to simmer the pears in water, 20 minutes in the syrup.

Average cost, Id. to 2d. each.

Seasonable. — Most plentiful in September and October.

STEWED PEARS.

1576. Ingredients. — 8 large pears, 5 oz. of loaf sugar, 6 cloves,
6 whole allspice, A pint of water, ~ pint of port wine, a few drops of
prepared cochineal.

Mode. — Pare the pears, halve them, remove the cores, and leave the
stalks on ; put them into a lined saucepan with the above ingredients,
and let them simmer very gently until tender, which will be in from
3 to 4 hours, according to the quality of
the pears. They should be watched, and,
when done, carefully lifted out on to a
glass dish without breaking them. Boil
up the syrup quickly for 2 or 3 minutes ;
allow it to cool a little', pour it over the pears, and let them get per-
fectly cold. To improve the colour of the fruit, a few "drops of pre-
pared cochineal may be added, which rather enhances the beauty of
his dish. The fruit must not be boiled fast, but only simmered,
d watched that it be not too much done.

STEWED PEAES.

792

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — 3 to 4 hours. Average cost, Is. 6 cl.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from September to January, j

The Bon Chretien- Peak. — The valuable variety of pear called Bon Chritien, which 'l
comes to our tables in winter, either raw or cooked, received its name through the fol- 'J
lowing incident: — Louis XI., king of Prance, had sent for Saint Francois de Paule
from the lower part of Calabria, in the hopes of recovering his health through his j
intercession. The saint brought with him the seeds of this pear ; and, as he was called
at court Le Bon Chritien , this fruit obtained the name of him to whom Prance owed its j
introduction.

PINEAPPLE CHIPS.

1577- Ingredients. — Pineapples; sugar to taste.

Mode. — Pare and slice the fruit thinly, put it on dishes, and strew
over it plenty of pounded sugar. Keep it in a hot closet, or very slow
oven, 8 or 10 days, and turn the fruit every day until dry ; then put
the pieces of pine on tins, and place them in a quick oven for 10 mi-
nutes. Let them cool, and store them away in dry boxes, with paper
between each layer.

Time. — 8 to 10 days.

Seasonable. — Foreign pines, in July and August.

PEE SERVED PINEAPPLE.

1578. Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit, weighed after being
pared, allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar ; 4 pint of water.

Mode. — The pines for making this preserve should be perfectly
sound but ripe. Cut them into rather thick slices, as the fruit shrinks
very much in the boiling. Pare off the rind carefully, that none of
the pine be wasted ; and, in doing so, notch it in and out, as the edge
cannot be smoothly cut without great waste. Dissolve a portion of the
sugar in a preserving-pan with 5 pint of water ; when this is melted,
gradually add the remainder of the sugar, and boil it until it forms a
clear syrup, skimming well. As soon as this is the case, put in the
pieces of pine, and boil well for at least l hour, or until it looks
nearly transparent. Put it into pots, cover down when cold, and
store away in a dry place.

Time. — i hour to boil the fruit. Average cost, 10 cl. to Is. per lb. pot.

Seasonable. — Foreign pines, in July and August.

The Pineapple in Heathendom. — Heathen nations invented protective divinities
for their orchards (such as Pomona, Yertumnus, Priapus, &c.), ana benevolent pntrom
for their fruits : thus, the olive-tree grew under the auspices of Minerva ; the Muses
cherished the palm-tree, Bacchus tho tig and grape, and the pine and its cone icerc conse-
crated to the great Cyhele.

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE, for Present Use.

1579. Ingredients. — Pineapple, sugar, water.

Mode. — Cut the pine into slices 1 inch in thickness ; peel them, and
remove the hard part from the middle. Put the parangs and hare

793

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

pieces into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and boil

for i hour. Strain the liquor, and put in the slices of pine. Stew them

for 10 minutes, add sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely, and
boil again for another 5 hour; skim well, and the preserve will be ready
for use. It must be eaten soon, as it will keep but a very short time.

Time— l hour to boil the parings in water ; 10 minutes to boil the .
pine without sugar, 3 hour with sugar.

Average cost. — Foreign pines, Is. to 3s. each ; English, from 2s. to

12s. per lb.

Seasonable. — Foreign, in July and August; English, all the year.

PLUM JAM.

1580. Ingredients. — To every lb. of plums, weighed before being
stoned, allow 5 lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode.— In making plum jam, the quantity of sugar for each lb. of
fruit must be regulated by the quality and size of the fruit, some
plums requiring much more -sugar than others. Divide the plums,
take out the stones, and put them on to large dishes, with roughly-
pounded sugar sprinkled over them in the above proportion, and let
them • remain for one day ; then put them into a preserving-pan,
stand them by the side of the fire to simmer gently for about i hour,
and then boil them rapidly for another 15 minutes. The seum must
be carefully removed as it rises, and the jam- must be well stirred all
the time, or it will burn at the bottom of the pan, and so spoil the
colour and flavour of the preserve. Some of the stones may be
cracked, and a few kernels added to the jam just before it is done :
these impart a very delicious flavour to the plums. The above pro-
portion of sugar would answer for Orleans plums ; the Imperatriee,
Magnum-bonum, and Winesour would not require quite so much.

Time. — i hour to simmer gently, 3 hour to boil rapidly.

Best plums for preserving. — Yiolets, Mussels, Orleans, Imperatriee,
Magnum-bonum, and Winesour.

Seasonable from the end of July to the beginning of October.

Plums. — The Damson, or Damascene plum, takes its name from Damascus, where it
grows in great quantities, and whence it was brought into Italy about 114 b. o. The Orleans
plum is from Prance. The Greengage is called alter the Gage family, who first brought
it into England from the monastery of the Chartreuse, at Paris, where it still bears the
name of Iteine Claude. The Magnum-bonum is our largest plum, and greatly esteemed
for preserves and culinary purposes. The best sorts of plums are agreeable at the
dessert, and, when perfectly ripe, are wholesome; but some are too astringent. They
lose much of their bail qualities by baking, and are extensively used, from their cheapness,
when in full season, in tarts and preserves ; but they are not a very wholesome fruit,
and should be eaten.in moderation.

PRESERVED PLUMS.

1581. Ingredients.— To every lb. of fruit allow § lb. of loaf sugar ;
for the thin syrup, 3 lb. of sugar to each pint of water.

794

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. Select large ripe plums ; slightly prick them, to prevent
them from bursting, and simmer them very gently in a syrup made
with the above proportion of sugar and water. Put them carefully into
a pan, let the syrup cool, pour it over the plums, and allow them to re-
main for two days. Having previously weighed the other sugar, dip the
lumps quickly into water, and put them into a preserving-pan with
no more water than hangs about them ; and boil the sugar to a syrup,
carefully skimming it. Drain the plums from the first syrup ; put
them into the fresh syrup, and simmer them very gently until they
are clear ; lift them out singly into pots, pour the syrup over, and
when cold, cover down to exclude the air. This preserve will remain
good some time, if kept in a dry place, and makes a very nice addition
to a dessert. The magnum-bonum plums answer for this preserve
better than any other kind of plum. Greengages are also very deli-
cious done in this manner.

Time. — \ hour to 20 minutes to simmer the plums in the first syrup ;
20 minutes to i hour very gentle simmering in the second.

Seasonable from August to October.

TO PRESERVE PLUMS DRV.

1582. Ingredients.— To every lb. of sugar allow | pint of water.

Mode. — Gather the plums when they are full-grown and just turn-
ing colour ; prick them, put them into a saucepan of cold water, and
set them on the fire until the water is on the point of boiling. Then
take them out, drain them, and boil them gently in syrup made with
the above proportion of sugar and water ; and if the plums shrink,
and will not take the sugar, prick them as they lie in the pan ; give
them another boil, ' skim, and set them by. The next day add some
more sugar, boiled almost to candy, to the fruit and syrup ; put all
together into a wide-mouthed jar, and place them in a cool oven for
2 nights ; then drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little
powdered sugar over, and dry them in a cool oven.

Time. — 15 to 20 minutes to boil the plums in the syrup.

Seasonable from August to October.

Plums. — The ■wild sloe is the parent of the plum, but the acclimated kinds come from
the East. The cultivation of this fruit was probably attended to very early in England,
as Gerrard informs us that, in 1597, he had m his garden, in Holborn, threescore sorts.
The sloe is a shrub common in our hedgerows, and belongs to the natural order Apiyg-
dalece ; the fruit is about the size of a large pea, of a black colour,' and covered with a
bloom of a bright, blue. It is one of the tew indigenous to our island. The juice is
extremely sharp and astringent, and was formerly' employed as a medicine, where
astringents were necessary. It now assists in the manufacture of a red wine made to
imitate port, and also for adulteration. The leaves have been used to adulterate tea ;
the fruit, when ripe, makes a gpod preserve.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

795

STEWED FREETCH PLUMS.

(A Dessert Dish.)

1593. Ingredients. — li lb. of French plums, f pint of syrup
No. 1512, 1 glass of port wine, the rind and juice of 1 lemon.

Mode. — Stew the plums gently in water for 1 hour ; strain the water,
and with it make the syrup. 'When it is clear, put in the plums with
the port wine, lemon -juice, and rind, and simmer very gently for
11- hour. Arrange the plums on a glass dish, take out the lemon-rind,
pour the syrup over the plums, and, when cold, they will be ready for
table. A little allspice stewed with the fruit is by many persons con-
sidered an improvement.

Time. — 1 hour to stew the plums in water, U hour in the syrup.

Average cost, — plums sufficiently good for stewing, Is. per lb.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.

PRESERVED PUMPKIN.

1584. Ingredients. — To each lb. of pumpkin allow 1 lb. of roughly-
pounded loaf sugar, 1 gill of lemon-juice.

Mode. — Obtain a good sweet pumpkin ; halve it, take out the seeds,
and pare off the rind ; cut it into neat slices, or into pieces about the
size of a five-shilling piece. Weigh the pumpkin, put the slices in a
pan or deep dish in layers, with the sugar sprinkled between them ;
pour the lemon-juice over the top, and let the whole remain for 2 or
3 days. Boil altogether, adding 4 pint of water to every 3 lbs. of
sugar used until the pumpkin becomes tender ; then turn the whole
into a pan, where let it remain for a week ; then drain oft’ the syrup, boil
it until it is quite thick ; skim, and pour it, boiling, over the pump-
kin. A little bruised ginger and lemon-rind, thinly pared, may be
boiled in the syrup to flavour the pumpkin.

Time. — From i to f hour to boil the pumpkin tender.

Average cost, 5d. to 7 d. per lb. pot.

Seasonable in September and October ; but better when made in the
latter month, as the pumpkin is then quite ripe.

Note. — Vegetable marrows are very good prepared in the same maimer, but
are not quite so rich.

QUINCE JELLY.

1585. Ingredients. — To every pint of juice allow 1 lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Pare and slice the quinces, and put them into a preserving-

pan with sufficient water to float them. Boil them until tender, and the
fruit is reduced to a pulp ; strain oft1 the clear juice, and to each pint

79G

MODERN DODSEnOLD COOKERY.

allow the above proportion of loaf sugar. Boil the juice and sugar
together for about % hour ; remove all the scum as it rises, and, when
the jelly appears firm when a little is poured on a plate, it is done.
The residue left’ on the sieve will answer to make a common marma-
lade, for immediate use, by boiling it with j lb. of common sugar to
every lb. of pulp.

Time. — 3 hours to boil the quinces in water ; % hour to boil thejelly.

Average cost, from 8 d. to 1 0c7. per lb. pot.

Seasonable from August to October.

QUINCE MARMALADE.

1586. Ingredients.— To every lb. of quince pulp allow 5 lb. of
loaf sugar.

Mode. — Slice the quinces into a'preserving-pan, adding sufficient
water for. them to float ; place them on the fire to stew, until reduced
to a pulp, keeping them stirred occasionally from the bottom, to
prevent their burning ; then pass the pulp through a hair sieve, to
keep back the skin and seeds. Weigh the pulp, and to each lb. add
lump sugar in the above proportion, broken very small. Place the
whole on the fire, and keep it well stirred from the bottom of the pan
with a wooden spoon, until reduced to a marmalade, which may be
known by dropping a little on a cold plate, when, if it jellies, it is
done. Put it into jars whilst hot; let it cool, and cover with pieces of
oiled paper cut to the size of the mouths of the j ars. The tops of them
may be afterwards covered with pieces of bladder, or tisssue-paper
brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg.

Time. — 3 hours to boil the quinces without the sugar ; 5 hour to
boil the pulp with the sugar.

Average cost, from 8 d. to 9 d. per lb. pot.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 pint of sliced quinces for a lb. pot.

Seasonable in August, September, and October.

RAISIN CHEESE.

1587. Ingredients. — To every lb. of raisins allow 3 lb. of loaf sugar ;
pounded cinnamon and cloves to taste.

Mode. — Stone the raisins ; put them into a stewpan with the sugar,
cinnamon, and cloves, and let them boil for l i hour, stirring all the
time. Let the preparation cool a little, pour it into a glass dish, and
garnish with strips of candied lemon-peel and citron. This will
remain good some time, if kept in a dry .place.

Time. — li hour. Average cost, 9d.

Sufficient.— 1 lb. for 4 or 0 persons. Seasonable at any time.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

797

RASPBERRY JAM.

1588. Ingredients. — To every lb. of raspberries allow 1 lb. of sugar,
j pint of red-currant juice.

Mode. — Let the fruit for this preserve be gathered in fine weather,
and used as soon after it is picked as possible. Take off the stalks, put
the raspberries into a preserving-pan, break them well with a wooden
spoon, and let them boil for \ hour, keeping them well stirred. Then
add the currant-juice and sugar, and boil again for § hour. Skim the
jam well after the sugar is added, or the preserve will not be clear.
The addition of the currant juice is a very great improvement to this
preserve, as it gives it a piquant taste, which the flavour of the rasp-
berries seems to require.

Time. — I hour to simmer the fruit without the sugar ; i hour after
it is added.

Average cost, from 6 cl. to Sd. per lb. pot.

Sufficient. — Allow about 1 pint of fruit to fill a 1-lb. pot.

Seasonable in July and August.

RASPBERRY JELLY.

1580. Ingredients.— To each pint of juice allow f lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Let the raspberries be freshly gathered, quite ripe, and
picked from the stalks ; put them into a large jar, after breaking the
fruit a little with a wooden spoon, and place this jar, covered, in a
saucepan of boiling water. When the juice is well drawn, which will
be in from § to 1 hour, strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve or
cloth ; measure the juice, and to every pint allow the above proportion
of loaf sugar. Put the juice and sugar into a preserving-pan, place it
over the fire, and boil gently until the jelly thickens when a little is
poured on a plate ; carefully remove all the scum as it rises, pour the
jelly into small pots, cover down, and keep in a dry place. This jelly
answers for making raspberry cream, and for flavouring various sweet
dishes, when, in winter, the fresh fruit is not obtainable.

Time. — f to 1 hour to draw the juice.

Average cost, from 9 d. to Is. per lb. pot.

Sufficient. — From 3 pints to 2 quarts of fruit should yield 1 pint of
juice.

Seasonable. — This should be made in July or August.

RHUBARB JAM.

1590, Ingredients. — To every lb. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. of loaf
sugar, the rind of lemon.

70S

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode.— Wipe the rhubarb perfectly dry, take off the string or peel,
and weigh it ; put it into a preserving-pan, with sugar in the above
proportion ; mince the lemon-rind very finely, add it to the other in-
gredients, and place the preserving-pan by the side of the fire ; keep
stirring to prevent the rhubarb from burning, and when the sugar is
well dissolved, put the pan more over the fire, and let the jam boil
until it is done, taking care to keep it well skimmed and stirred with
a wooden or silver spoon. Pour it into pots, and cover down with
oiled and egged papers.

Time '.— If the rhubarb is young and tender, § hour, reckoning
from the time it simmers equally ; old rhubarb, lj to l-l hour.

Average cost, 5 d. to 7 di per lb. pot.

Sufficient. — About 1 pint of sliced rhubarb to fill a lb. pot.

Seasonable from February to April.

RHUBARB AND ORANGE JAM, to resemble Scotch

Marmalade.

1591. Ingredients. — 1 quart of finely-cut rhubarb, 6 oranges,
I t lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode. — Peel the oranges ; remove as much of the white pith as
possible, divide them, and take out the pips ; slice the pulp into a
preserving-pan, add the rind of half the oranges cut into thin strips,
and the loaf sugar, which should be broken small. Peel the rhubarb,
cut it into thin pieces, put it to the oranges, and stir altogether over a
gentle fire until the jam is done. Remove all the scum as it rises, put
the preserve into pots, and, when cold, cover down. Should the rhubarb
be very old, stew it alone for | hour before the other ingredients are
added.

Time. — | to 1 hour. Average cost, from 6 d. to 8 d. per lb. pot.

Seasonable from February to April.

RASPBERRY AND CURRANT, or any Fresh Fruit Salad.

(A Dessert Dish.)

1592. Mode. — Fruit salads are made by stripping the fruit from
the stalks, piling it on a dish, and sprinkling over it finely-pounded
sugar. They may be made of strawberries, raspberries, currants, or
any of these fruits mixed ; peaches also make a very good salad.
After the sugar is sprinkled over, about 6 large tablespoonfuls of wine or
brandy, or 3 tablespoonfuls of liqueur, should be poured in the middle
of the fruit; and, when the flavour is liked, a little pounded cinna-
mon may be added. In helping the fruit, it should be lightly stirred,
that the wine and sugar may be equally distributed.

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

793

Sufficient— H pint of fruit, with 3 oz. of pounded sugar, for 4 or^5
persons.

Seasonable in summer. - ■

STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM.

1593. Ingredients.— To every pint of picked strawberries allow
1 pint of cream, 2 oz. of finely-pounded sugar.

Mode. — Pick the stalks from the fruit, place it on a glass dish,
sprinkle over it pounded sugar, and slightly stir the strawberries, that
they may all be equally sweetened ; pour the cream over the top, and
serve. Devonshire cream, when it can he obtained, is exceedingly de-
licious for this dish ; and, if very thick indeed, may be diluted with
a little thin cream or milk.

Average cost for this quantity, with cream at Is. per pint, Is.

Sufficient for 2 persons. Seasonable in June and July.

STRAWBERRY JAM.

15^4. Ingredients. — To every lb. of fruit allow i pint of red-cur -
rant juice, 1 j lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode.— Strip the currants from the stalks, put them into ajar;
place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer until the
juice is well drawn from the fruit ; strain the currants, measure the
juice, put it into a preserving-pan, and add the sugar. Select well-
ripened but sound strawberries ; pick them from the stalks, and when
the sugar is dissolved in the currant juice, put in the fruit. Simmer
the whole over a moderate fire, from i to f hour, carefully removing
the scum as it rises. Stir the jam only enough to prevent it from
burning at the bottom of the pan, as the fruit should be preserved
as whole as. possible* Put the jam into jars, and when cold, cover
down.

Time. — | to f hour, reckoning from the time the jam simmers all
over.

Average cost, from 7 d. to 8 d. per lb. pot.

Sufficient— 12 pints of strawberries will make 12 lb. pots of jam.

Seasonable in June and July.

PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES IN WINE.

1595- Ingredients.— To every quart bottle allow £ lb. of finely-
pounded loaf sugar ; sherry or Madeira.

Mode. — Let the fruit be gathered in fine weather, and used as soon
as picked. Have ready some perfectly dry glass bottles, and some

800

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

nice soft corks or bungs. Pick the stalks from the strawberries, drop
them into the bottles, sprinkling amongst them pounded sugar in
the above proportion, and when the fruit reaches to the neck of the
bottle, fill up with sherry or Madeira. Cork the bottles down with
new corks, and dip them into melted resin.

Seasonable. — Make this in-June or July.

TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES WHOLE.

1596. Ingredients.— To every lb. of fruit allow li lb. of good loaf
sugar, 1 pint of red-currant juice.

Mode.-^ Choose the strawberries not too ripe, of a fine large sort
and of a good colour. Pick off the stalks, lay the strawberries in a
disb, and sprinkle over them half the quantity of sugar, which must
be finely pounded. Shake the dish gently, that the sugar may be
equally distributed and touch the under-side of the fruit, and let
it remain for 1 day. Then have ready the currant-juice, drawn as
for red-currant jelly No. 1533 ; boil it with the remainder of the sugar
until it forms a thin syrup, and in this simmer the strawberries and
sugar, until the whole is sufficiently jellied. Great care must be
taken not to stir the fruit roughly, as it should be preserved as whole
as possible. Strawberries prepared in this manner are very good
served in glasses and mixed with thin cream.

Time. — \ hour to 20 minutes to simmer the strawberries in the
syrup.

Seasonable in June and July.

TO MAKE EVERTON TOEFEE.

1597. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of powdered loaf sugar, 1 teacupful of
water, j lb. of butter, 6 drops of essence of lemon.

Mode. — Put the water and sugar into a brass pan, and beat the
butter to a cream. When the sugar is dissolved, add the butter, and
keep stirring the mixture over the fire until it sets, when a little is 1
poured on to a buttered dish ; and just before the toffee is done, add
the essence of lemon. Butter a dish or tin, pour on it the mixture, j
and when cool, it will easily separate from the dish. Butter-Scotch, ,
an excellent thing for coughs, is made with brown, instead of white . |
sugar, omitting the water, and flavoured with 3 oz. of powdered I
ginger. It is made in the same manner as toffee.

Time. — 18 to 35 minutes. Average cost, 10r/.

Sufficient to make a lb. of toffee.

F RESERVES, COXEEOTIOXARY. ETC.

SOI

DESSEET DISHES.

1598. The tazza, or dish with stem, the same as that shown in our
illustrations, is now the favourite shape for dessert-dishes. The fruit

can be arranged and
shown to better ad-
vantage on these tall
high dishes than on
the short flat ones.
All the dishes are
now usually placed
down the centre of
the table, dried and
fresh fruit alter-
nately, the former
being arranged on
small round or oval
glass plates, and the
latter on the dishes
with stems. The
fruit should always
be gathered on the
same day that it is
required for table,
and should be taste-
fully arranged on
the dishes, with
leaves between and
round it. By pur-
chasing fruits that
arc in season, a des-
sert can be supplied
at a very moderate
cost. These, with a
few fancy biscuits,
crystallized fruit,
bon-bons, &c., are
sufficient for an
ordinary dessert.
When fresh fruit

DISH OF NUTS.

BOX OP PEENCH PLUMS.

DISH OP MIXED FKUIT.

3 v

cannot be obtained,
dried and foreign
fruits, compotes,
baked pears, stewed
Normandy pippins,
&c. &c., must sup-
ply its place, -with
the addition of pre-
serves, bon-bons,
cakes, biscuits, &e.
At fashionable ta-
bles, forced fruit is
served growing in
pots, these pots
being hidden in
more ornamental
ones, and arranged
with the other
dishes. — (See colour-
ed plate W 1.) A
few vases of fresh
flowers, tastefully
arranged, add very
much to the appear-
ance of the dessert ;
and, when these are
not obtainable, a
few paper ones,
mixed with green
leaves, answer very
well as a substitute.
In decorating a
table, whether for
luncheon, dessert, or
supper, a vase or
two of flowers should

832

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

never be forgotten,
as they add so much
to the elegance of
the tout ensemble.
In summer and au-
tumn, ladies resid-
ing in the country
can always manage
to have a few fresh-
ly-gathered flowers
on their tables, and
should never be
without this inex-
pensive luxury. On
the continent, vases
or epergnes 'filled
with flowers are in-
variablyplaced down
the centre of the
dinner-table at re-
gular distances. Ices
for dessert are usu-
ally moulded : when
this is not the case,
they are handed
round in glasses
with wafers to ac-
company them. Pre-
served ginger is
frequently handed
round after ices,
to prepare the palate
for the delicious
dessert wines. A
basin or glass of
finely-poundedlump
sugar must never
be omitted at a des-
sert, as also a glass
■ jug of fresh cold wa-
ter (iced, if possible),
and two goblets by
its side. Grape-

BOX OP CHOCOLATE.

ALMONDS AND BAISINS.

scissors, a melon -
knife and fork, and
nutcrackers, should
always be put on
table, if there are
dishes of fruit re-
quiring them. Zests
are sometimes served
at the close of the
dessert ; such as an-
chovy toasts or bis-
cuits. The French
often serve plain or
grated cheese with
a dessert of fresh or
dried fruits. At some
tables, finger-glasses
are placed at the
right of each person,
nearly half filled
with cold spring
water, and in winter
with tepid water.
These precede the
dessert. At other
tables, a glass or
v ase is simply handed
round, filled with
perfumed water, into
which each guest
dips the corner of
his napkin, and,
when needful, re-
freshes his lips and
the tips of his fingers.
After the dishes are
placed, and every
one is provided
with plates, glasses,
spoons, &c., the wine
should be put at
each end of the
table, cooled or

PRESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

SOS

otherwise, according to the season. If the party be small, the wine
may be placed only at the top of the table, near the host.

DISH OH HITTS.

1599. These are merely arranged piled high in the centre of the
dish, as shown in the engraving, with or without leaves round the
edge. Filberts should always be served with the outer skin or husk
on them ; and walnuts should be well wiped with a damp cloth, and
then with a dry one, to remove the unpleasant sticky feeling the shells
frequently have.

Seasonable— Filberts from September to March, good ; may be had
after that time, but are generally shrivelled and dry. Walnuts from
September to January.

Hazel Kut and Filbeet. — The common Hazel ia the wild, and the Filbert the culti-
vated state of the same tree. The hazel is found wild, not only in forests and hedges, in
dingles and ravines, but occurs in extensive tracts in the more northern and mountainous
parts of the country. It was formerly one of the most abundant of those trees which
are indigenous in this island. It is seldom cultivated as a fruit-tree, though perhaps its
nuts are superior in flavour to the others. The Spanish nuts imported are a superior
kind, but they are somewhat oily and rather indigestible. Filberts, both the red and
the white, and the cob-nut, are supposed to be merely varieties of the common hazel,
which have been produced, partly by the superiority of soil and climate, and partly by
culture. They were originally brought out of Greece to Italy, whence they have found
their way to Holland, aud from that country to England. It is supposed that, within a
few miles of Maidstone, in Kent, there are more filberts grown than in all England
besides ; and it is from that place that the London market is supplied. The filbert is
longer than the common nut, though of the Same thickness, and has a larger' kernel.
The cob-nut is a still larger variety, and is roundish. Filberts are more esteemed at the
dessert than common nuts, and are generally eaten with salt. They are very free from
oil, and disagree with few persons.

Walnuts. — The Walnut is a native of Persia, the Caucasus, and China, but was
introduced to this kingdom from France. The ripe kernel is brought to the dessert on
account of its agreeable flavour ; and the fruit is also much used in the green state,
before the stone hardens, as a pickle. In Spain, grated walnuts are employed in tarts
and other dishes. The walnut abounds in oil, which is expressed, and which, being of a
highly drying nature, and very limpid, is much employed for delicate painting. This,
on the continent, is sometimes used as a substitute for olive-oil in cooking, but is very
apt to turn rancid. It is also manufactured into a kind of soap. The mare, or refuse
matter after the oil is extracted, proves very nutritious for poultry or other dqmestic
animals, In Switzerland, this is eaten by poor people under the name of pain amer.

BOX OH HEENCH PLUMS.

1600. If the box which contains them is exceedingly ornamental, it
may be placed on the table ; if small, on a glass dish ; if large, without
one. French plums may also he arranged on a glass plate, and gar-
nished with bright-coloured sweetmeats, which make a very good effect.
All fancy boxes of preserved and crystallized fruit may be put on the
table or not, at pleasure. These little matters of detail must, of course,
be left to individual taste.

Seasonable. — May be purchased all the year ; but are in greater
perfection in the winter, and are more suitable for that season, as fresh
fruit cannot be obtained.

3 f 2

804

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

DISH OF MIXED FBUTT.

1601. For a centre dish, a mixture of various fresh fruits has a
remarkably good effect, particularly if a pine be added to the list. A
high raised appearance should he given to the fruit, which is done
in the following manner. Place a tumbler in the centre of the dish,
and, in this tumbler, the pine, crown uppermost ; round the tumbler
put a thick layer of moss, and, over this, apples, pears, plums, peaches,
and such fruit as is simultaneously in season. By putting a layer of
moss underneath, so much fruit is n6t required, besides giving a better
shape to the dish. Grapes should be placed on the top of the fruit, a
portion of some of the bunches hanging over the sides of the dish in
a neglige kind of manner, which takes off the formal look of the dish.
In arranging the plums, apples, &c., let the colours contrast well.

Seasonable. — Suitable for a dessert in September or October.

Gkapes. — France produces about a thousand varieties of the grape, which is cultivated
more extensively in that country than in any other. Hygienists agree in pronouncing
grapes as among the best of fruits. The grape possesses several rare qualities : it is
nourishing and fattening, and its prolonged use has often overcome the most obstinate
cases of constipation. The skins and pips of grapes should not be eaten.

BOX OF CHOCOLATE.

1602. This is served in an ornamental box, placed on a glass plate
or dish.

Seasonable. — May be purchased at any time.

DISH OF APPLES.

1603. The apples should be nicely wiped with a dry cloth, and
arranged on a dish, piled high in the centre, with evergreen leaves
between each layer. The inferior apples should form the bottom
layer, with the bright- coloured large ones at the top. The leaves of
the laurel, bay, holly, or any shrub green in winter, are suitable for
garnishing dessert dishes. Oranges may be arranged in the same
manner ; they should also be wiped with a dry cloth before being sent
to table.

DISH OF MIXED SUMMED, FRUIT.

1 604. This dish consists of cherries, raspberries, currants, and straw-
berries, piled in different layers, with plenty of leaves between each
layer; so that each fruit is well separated. The fruit should be
arranged with a due regard to colour, so that they contrast nicely one
with the other. Our engraving shows a layer of white cherries at the
bottom, then one of red raspberries ; over that a layer of white currants,
and at the top some fine scarlet strawberries.

Seasonable in June, July, and August.

r RESERVES, CONFECTIONARY, ETC.

805

ALMONDS AND RAISINS.

1605. These are usually served on glass dishes, the fruit piled high in
the centre, and the almonds blanched, and strewn over. To blanch
the almonds, put them into a small mug or teacup, pour over them
boiling water, let them remain for 2 or 3 minutes, and the skins may
then bo easily removed. Pigs, dates, French plums, &c., are all served
on small glass plates or oval dishes, but without the almonds.

Seasonable at any time, but more suitable in winter, when fresh
fruit is not obtainable.

Dates. — Dates are imported into Britain, in a dried state, from Barbary and Egypt,
and, when in good condition, they are much esteemed. An inferior kind has lately
become common, which are dried hard, and have little or no flarour. They should be
chosen large, sottish, not much wrinkled, of a reddish-yellow colour on the outside, with
a whitash membrane between the fruit and the stone.

DISH OP STRAWBERRIES.

1606. Fine strawberries, arranged in the manner shown in the en-
graving, look exceedingly well. The inferior ones should be placed at
the bottom of the dish, and the others put in rows pyramidically, with
the stalks downwards; so that when the whole is completed, nothing
but the red part of the fruit is visible. The fruit should be gathered
with rather long stalks, as there is then something to support it, and
it can be placed more upright in each layer. A few of the finest should
be reserved to crown the top.

TO HAVE WALNUTS PRESH THROUGHOUT THE

SEASON.

1607. Ingredients. — To every pint of water allow 1 teaspoonful
of salt.

Mode. — Place the walnuts in the salt and water for 24 hours at
least ; then take them out, and rub them dry. Old nuts may be
freshened in this manner ; or walnuts, when first picked, may be put
into an earthen pan with salt sprinkled amongst them, and with
damped hay placed on the top of them, and then covered down with a
lid. They must be well wiped before they are put on table.

Seasonable. — Should be stored away in September or October.

• CHAPTER XXXII.

GSNESAL OBSERVATION’S ON MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE,

AND EGGS.

MILK.

1608. Milk is obtained only from the class of animals called Mammalia,
and is intended by Nature for the nourishment of their young. The milk of
each animal is distinguished by some peculiarities ; but as that of the cow is by
far the most useful to us iu this part of the world, our observations will be
confined to that variety.

1609. Milk, when drawn from the cow, is of a yellowish-white colour, and is
the most yellow at the beginning of the period of lactation. Its taste is agree-
able, and rather saccharine. The viscidity and specific gravity of milk are some-
what greater than that of water ; but these properties vary somewhat in the
milk procured from different individuals. On an average, the specific gravity
of milk is 1.035, water being 1. The small cows of the Alderney breed afford
the richest milk.

1610. Milk which is carried to a considerable distance, so as to be much agi-
tated, and cooled before it is put into pans to settle for cream, never throws up
so much, nor such rich cream, as if the same milk had been put into pans
.directly after it was milked.

16 r 1 . Milk, considered as an aliment, is of such importance in domestic eco-
nomy as to render all the improvements in its production extremely valuable. To
enlarge upon the antiquity of its use is unnecessary ; it has always been a

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

SC 7

favourite food in Britain. “ Lactc et oarno vivunt,” says Caesar, in liis Com-
mentaries ; tho English of which is, “ the inhabitants subsist upon flesh and
milk. ” The breed of tho cow has received great improvement in modern times,
as regards the quantity and quality of the milk which she affords ; the form ot
milch-cows, their mode of nourishment, and progress, are also manifest m tho
management of the dairy.

i6ie. Although milk in its natural state be a fluid, yet, considered as an ali-
ment, it is both solid and fluid : for no sooner does it enter the stomach, than it is
coagulated by the gastric juice, and separated into curd and whey, the first of
these being extremely nutritive.

1613. Milk of the human subject is much thinner than cow’s milk ; Ass’s milk
comes the nearest to human milk of any other ; Goat’s milk is something
thicker and richer than cow’s milk ; Ewe's milk has the appearance of cow’s
milk, and affords a larger quantity of cream ; Mare's milk contains more sugar
than that of the ewe ; Camel’s milk is used only in Africa ; Buffalo’s milk is
employed in India.

1614. From no other substance, solid orfluid, can so great a number of distinct
kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk ; some forming food, others drink ;
some of them delicious, and deserving the name of luxuries ; all of them wholes
some, and some medicinal : indeed, the variety of aliments that seems capable
of being produced from milk, appears to be quite endless. In every age this
must have been a subject for experiment, and every nation has added to the
number by the invention of some peculiarity of its own.

BUTTER.

1615. Beckman, in his “ History of Inventions,” states that butter was not
used either by the Greeks or Homans in cooking, nor was it brought upon their
tables at certain meals, as is the custom at present. In England it has been
made from time immemorial, though the art of making cheese is' said not to
have been known to the ancient Britons, and to have been learned from their
conquerors. ,

1616. The taste of butter is peculiar, and very unlike any other fatty sub-
stance. It q; extremely agreeable when of the best quality ; but its flavour
depends much upon the food given to the cows : to be good, it should not adhere
to the knife.

1617. Butter, with regard to its dietetic properties, may be regarded nearly
in tho light of vegetable oils and animal fats ; but it becomes sooner rancid than
most other fat oils. When fresh, it cannot but bo considered as very whole-

308

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

somo; but it should bo quite free from rancidity. If slightly salted when it
is fresh, its wholesomoncss is probably not at all impaired ; but should it begin
to turn rancid, salting will not correct its unwholesomeness. When salt butter
is put into casks, the upper part next the air is very apt to become rancid, and
this rancidity is also liable to affeetthe whole cask.

1618. Fpping hulter is the kind most esteemed in London. Fresh butter comes
to London from Buckinghamshire, Suffolk, Oxfordshire, Yorkshire, Devonshire,
&c. Cambridge butter is esteemed next to fresh ; Devonshire butter is nearly
similar in quality to the latter ; Irish butter sold in London is all salted, but
is generally good. The number of firkins exported annually from Ireland '
amounts to 420,000, equal to a million of money. Dutch butter is in good 1
repute all over Europe, America, and even India ; and no country in the world
is so successful in the manufacture of this article, Holland supplying more
butter to the rest of the world than any country whatever.

1619. There are two methods pursued in the manufacture of butter. In one,
the cream is separated from the milk, and in that state it is converted into but-
ter by churning, as is the practice about Epping ; in the other, milk is subjected
to the same process, which is the method usually followed in Cheshire. The
first method is generally said to give the richest butter, and the latter the
largest quantity, though some are of opinion that there is little difference
either in quality or quantity.

CHEESE.

Kjco. Cheese is the curd formed from milk by artificial coagulation, pressed
and dried for use. Curd, called also casein and caseous matter, or the basis ot
cheese, exists in the milk, and not in the cream, and requires only to be sepa- ,
rated by coagulation. The coagulation, however, supposes some alteration of
the curd. By means of the substance employed to codjgulate it, it is rendered
insoluble in water. When the curd is freed from the whey, kneaded and
pressed to expel it entirely, it becomes cheese. This assumes a degree of
transparency, and possesses many of the properties of coagulated albumen.
If it be well dried, it does not change by exposure to the air ; but if it contain
moisture, it soon putrefies. It therefore requires some salt to preserve it, and
this acts likewise as a kind of seasoning. All our cheese is coloured more or
less, except that made from skim milk. The colouring substances employed
are arnatto, turmeric, or marigold, all perfectly harmless unless they are
adulterated ; and it is said that arnatto sometimes contains red lead.

1621. Cheese varies in quality and richness according to the materials of which
it is composed. It is made — 1. Of entire milk, as in Cheshire ; 2. . of milk and
cream, as at Stilton ; 3. of new milk mixed with skimmed milk, as in Glou-
cestershire ; 4. of skimmed milk only, as in Suffolk, Holland, and Italy.

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

809

i6-2. Tho principal varieties of clieosc used in England are the following- : —
Cl eshire cheese, famed all over Europe for its rich quality and fine piquant flavour.
It is made of entire new milk, the cream not being taken off. Gloucester cheese
is much milder in its taste than the Cheshire. There are two kinds of Glou-
cester cheese, — single and double. Single Gloucester is made of skimmed milk,
or of the milk deprived of half the cream ; Double Gloucester is a cheese that
pleases almost everj^ palate : it is made of the whole milk and cream. Stilton
cheese is made by adding the cream of one day to the entire milk of the next :
it was first made at Stilton, in Leicestershire. Sage cheese is so called from
the practice of colouring some curd with bruised sage, marigold-leaves, and
parsley, and mixing this with some uncoloured curd. With the Romans, and
during the middle ages, this practice was extensively adopted. Cheddar cheese
much resembles Parmesan. It has a very agreeable taste and flavour, and has
a spongy appearance. Brickbat cheese has nothing remarkable except its form.
It is made by turning with rennet a mixture of cream and new milk. The
curd is put into a wooden vessel the shape of a brick, and is then pressed and
dried in tho usual way. Dujilop cheese has a peculiarly mild and rich taste :
the best is made entirely from new milk. New cheese (as it is called in London)
is made chiefly in Lincolnshire, and is either made of all cream, or, like Stilton,
by addingthe cream', of one day’s milking to the milk that comes immediately
from the cow : they are extremely thin, and are compressed gently two or three
times, turned for a few days, and then eaten new with radishes, salad, &c.
Skimmed Milk cheese is made for sea voyages principally. Parmesan cheese is
made in Parma and Piacenza. It is the most celebrated of all cheese : it is
made entirely of skimmed cow’s milk. The high flavour which it has, is sup-
posed to be owing to the rich herbage of the meadows of the Po, where the
cows are pastured. The best Parmesan is kept for three or four years, and
none is carried to market till it is at least six months old. Dutch cheese derives
its peculiar pungent taste from tho practice adopted in Holland of coagulating
the milk with muriatic acid instead of rennet. Swiss cheeses in their several
varieties arc all remarkable for their fine flavour. That from Gruyere, a baili-
wick in the canton of Fribourg, is best known in England. It is flavoured by
the dried herb of Melilotos officinalis in powder. Cheese from milk and potatoes
is manufactured in Thuringia and Saxony. Cream cheese, although so called,
is not properly cheese, but is nothing more than cream dried sufficiently to be
cut with a knife.

EGGS.

1623. There is only one opinion as to the nutritive properties of eggs, al-
though the qualities of those belonging to different birds vary somewhat.
Those of the common hen are most esteemed as delicate food, particularly when
“new-laid.” The quality of eggs depends much upon the food given to the hen.
Eggs in general are considered most easily digestible when little subjected to-

Sio HODEBN UODSKIIOLD COOKERY.

tho art of cookory. The lightest way of dressing them is by poaching, which
is effected by putting thorn, for a minute' or two into brisk boiling water : this
coagulates the external white, without doing the inner part too much. Eggs
are much bettor when new-laid than a day or two afterwards. The usual
time allotted for boiling eggs in tho shell is 3 to 3>} minutes: less time than
that in boiling water will not be sufficient to solidify the white, and more will
make the yolk hard and less digestible: it is very difficult to guess accurately
ns to the time. Groat care should bo employed irt putting them into tho
water, to prevent cracking the sholl, which inevitably causes a portion of tho
white to exude, and lets water into the egg. Eggs are ofton beaten up raw
in nutritive beverages. ,

1624. Eggs are employed in a very great many articles of cooker}', entries,
■and entremets} and they form an essential ingredient in pastry, creams,
flip, &c. It is particularly necessary that they should be quite fresh, as
nothing is worse than stale eggs. Cobbett justly says, stale, or even preserved
eggs, are things to be' run from, not after.

1625. The Metropolis is supplied with eggs from all parts of the kingdom,
and they are likewise largely imported from various places on the continent ;
as France, Holland, Belgium, Guernsey, and Jersey. It appears from official
statements mentioned in McCulloch’s “ Commercial Dictionary,” that the
number imported from France alone amounts to about 60,000,000 a year ; and
supposing them on an average to cost fourpenco a dozen, it follows that we pay
our continental neighbours above £83,000 a year for eggs.

1626. The eggs of different birds vary much in size and colour. Those-
•of the ostrich are the largest : one laid in the menagerie in Paris weighed
2 lbs. 11 oz., held a pint, and was six inches deep: this is about the
usual size of those brought from Africa. Travellers describe ostrich eggs as. of
an agreeable taste : they keep longer than hen’s eggs. Drinking-cups are
-often made of the shell, which is very strong. The eggs of the turkey arc
almost as mild as those of the hen; the egg of tho goose is large, butwell-tasted.
Duck's eggs have a rich flavour ; the albumen is slightly transparent, or
bluish, when set or coagulated by boiling, which requires less time than hen’s-
•eggs. Guinea-fowl eggs are smaller and more delicate than those of tho hen.
Eggs of wildfowl are generally coloured, often spotted ; and the taste gene-
rally partakes somewhat of the flavour of the bird they belong to. Those ol
land birds that arc eaten, as the plover, lapwing, ruff, &c., are in general
much esteemed ; but those of sea-fowl have, more or less, a strong fishy taste.
The eggs of tho turtle are very numerous : they consist of yolk only, without
shell, and are delicious.

RECIPES.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

SEPARATION OE MILK AND CREAM.

16-27. If it be desired that the milk should be freed entirely from
cream, it should be poured into a very shallow broad pan or dish, not
more than If inch deep, as cream cannot rise through a great depth
of milk. In cold and wetweather, milk is not so rich as it is in summer
aud warm weather, and the morning’s milk is always richer than the
evening’s. The last-drawn milk of each milking, at all times and
seasons, is richer than the first-drawn, and on that account should be
set apart for cream. Milk should be shaken as little as possible when
carried from the cow to the dairy, and should be poured into the
pans very gently. Persons not keeping cows, may always have a little
cream, provided the milk they purchase be pure and unadulterated.
As soon as it comes in, it should be poured into very shallow open
pie-dishes, and set hy in a very cool place, and in 7 or 8 hours a nice
cream. should have risen to the surface.

JIii/e is one of the most complete of all articles of food : that is to say, it contains a
very large number of the elements which enter into the composition of the human body. It
“disagrees” with fat, heavy, languid people, of slow- circulation ; and, at first, with many
people of sedentary habits, and stomachs weakened by stimulants of different kinds,
iiut, if exercise can be taken and a little patience shown, while the system accommo-
dates itself to a new regimen, this bland aud soothing article of diet is excellent for the
majority of thin, nervous people ; especially for those who have suffered much from emo-
tional disturbances, or have relaxed their stomachs by too much tea or coffee", taken too
hot. Milk is, in fact, a nutrient and a sedative at once. Stomachs, however, Have their
idiosyncrasies, and it sometimes proves an unwelcome and ill-digested article of food. As
milk, when good, contains a good deal of respiratory material (fat), — material which
must either be burnt; off, or derange the liver, and be rejected in other ways, it may
disagree because the lungs are not sufficiently used iu the open air. But it is very pro-
bable that there are really “ constitutions ” which cannot take to it ; and they should not
be forced.

TO KEEP MILK AND CREAM IN HOT WEATHER.

1628. When the weather is very warm, and it is very difficult to
prevent milk from turning sour aud spoiling the cream, it should be
scalded, and it will then remain good for a few hour3. It must ofi no
account be allowed to boil, or thei*e will be a skin instead of a cream
upon the milk ; and the slower the process, the safer will it be. A
very good plan to scald milk, is to put the pan that contains it into a

S12

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

saucepan or wide kettle of boiling water. When the surface looks
thick, the milk is sufficiehtly scalded, and it should then be put away
in a cool place in the same vessel that it was scalded in. Cream may
be kept for 24 hours, if scalded without sugar ; and by the addition of
the latter ingredient, it will remain good double the time, if kept in a
cool place. All pans, jugs, and vessels intended, for milk, should be
kept beautifully clean, and well scalded before .the milk is put in, as
any negligence in this respect may cause large quantities of it to be
spoiled ; and milk should never be kept in vessels of zinc or copper.
Milk may be preserved good in hot weather, for a few hours, by
placing the jug which contains it in ice, or very cold water ; or a
pinch of bicarbonate of soda may be introduced into the liquid.

Milk, when of good quality, is of an opaque white colour : the cream always comee j
to the top; the well-known milky odour is strong; it will boil without altering its |
appearance in these respects ; the little bladders which arise on the surface will renew
themselves if broken by the spoon. To boil milk is, in fact, the simplest way of testing i
its quality. The commonest adulterations of milk are not of a hurtful character. It is
a good deal thinned with water, and sometimes thickened with a little starch, or
coloured with yolk of egg, or even saffron; but these processes have nothing murderous
in them.

CURDS AND WHEY.

1629. Ingredients. — A very small piece of rennet, \ gallon of
milk.

Mode. — Procure from the butcher’s a small piece of rennet, which
is the stomach of the calf, taken as soon as it is killed, scoured, and
well rubbed with salt, and stretched on sticks to dry. Pour some boil-
ing water on the rennet, and let it remain for 6 hours ; then use the
liquor to turn the milk. The milk should be warm and fresh from the
cow : if allowed to cool, it must be heated till it is of a degree quite
equal to new milk ; but do not let it be too hot. About a tablespoon -
ful, or rather more, would be sufficient to turn the above proportion of
milk into curds and whey ; and whilst the mill: is turning, let it be
kept in rather a warm place.

Time. — From 2 to 3 hours to turn the milk.

Seasonable at any time.

DEVONSHIRE CREAM.

1630. The milk should stand 24 hours in the winter, half that time
-when the weather is very warm. The milkpan is then set on a stove,
and should there remain until the milk is quite hot ; but it must not
boil, or there will be a thick skin on the surface. When it is suffi-
ciently done, the undulations on the surface look thick, and small
rings appear. The time required for scalding cream depends on the
size of the pan and the heat of the fire ; but the slower it is done, the

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND BOGS.

813

better. The pan should be placed in the dairy when the cream is
sufficiently scalded, and shimmed the following day. This cream is so
much esteemed that it is sent to the London markets in small square
tins, and is exceedingly* delicious eaten with fresh fruit. In Devon-
shire, butter is made from this cream, and is usually very firm.

DEVON SHIRE JUNKET.

1631. Ingredients. — To every pint of new milk allow 2 dessert-
spoonfuls of brandy, 1 dessertspoonful of sugar, and H dessertspoonful
of prepared rennet ; thick cream, pounded cinnamon, or grated
nutmeg.

3Iode. — Make the milk blood-warm ; put it into a deep dish with the
brandy, sugar, and rennet ; stir it altogether, and cover it over until
it is set. Then spread some thick or clotted cream over the top, grate
some nutmeg, and strew some sugar over, and the dish will be ready
to serve.

Time. — About 2 hours to set the milk. Seasonable at any time.

TO KEEP AND CHOOSE ERESH BUTTER.

1632. Fresh butter should be kept in a dark, cool place, and in as
large a mass as possible. Mould as much only as is required, as the
more surface is exposed, the more liability there will be to spoil ; and
the outside very soon becomes rancid. Fresh butter should be kept
covered with white paper. For small larders, butter-coolers of red
brick are now very much used for keeping fresh butter in warm
weather. These coolers are made with a large bell-shaped cover, into
the top of which a little cold water should be poured, and in summer
time very frequently changed ; and the butter must be kept covered.
These coolers keep butter remarkably firm in hot weather, and
are extremely convenient for those whose larder accommodation is
limited.

In choosing fresh butter, remember it should smell deliciously, and
be of an equal colour all through : if
it smells sour, it has not been suffi-
ciently washed from the buttermilk ;
and if veiny and open, it has pro-
bably been worked with a staler or an

inferior sort. butter-dish.

TO PRESERVE AND TO CHOOSE SALT BUTTER.

1633. In large families, where salt butter is purchased a tub at a
time, the first thing to be done is to turn the whole of the butter out,

814

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and, with a clean knife, to scrape the outside ; the tub should then
be wiped with a clean cloth, and sprinkled all round with salt, the
butter replaced, and the lid kept on to exclude the air. It is necessary
to take these precautions, as sometimes a want of proper cleanliness
in the dairymaid causes the outside of the butter to become rancid,
and if the scraping be neglected, the whole mass would soon become
spoiled. To choose salt butter, plunge a knife into it, and if, when
drawn out, the blade smells rancid or unpleasant, the butter is bad.
The layers in tubs will vary greatly, the butter being made at different
times ; so, to try if the whole tub be good, the cask should be unhooped,
and the butter tried between the staves.

It is not necessary to state that butter is extracted from cream, or
from unskimmed milk, by the churn. Of course it partakes of the
qualities of the milk, and winter butter is said not to be so good as
spring butter.

A word of caution is necessary about rancid butter. Nobody eats
it on bread, but it is sometimes used in cooking, in forms in which
the acidity can be more or less disguised. So much the worse ; it is
almost poisonous, disguise it as you may. Never, under any exigency
whatever, be tempted into allowing butter with even a soupqon of
“turning” to enter into the composition of any dish that appears on
your table. And, in general, the more you can do without the em-
ployment of butter that has been subjected to the influence of heat,
the better. The woman of modern times is not a “leech;” but she
might often. keep the “leech” from the door, if she would give herself
the trouble to invent innocent sauces.

BUTTER-MOULDS, for Moulding Eresli Butter.

1 634. Butter-moulds, or wooden stamps for moulding fresh butter,
are much used, and are made in a variety of forms and shapes. In

using them, let them be kept scrupu-
lously clean, and before the butter is
pressed in, the interior should be well
wetted with cold water ; the butter must
dish or bolded Bui iLR. then be pressed in, the mould opened,
and the perfect shape taken out. The butter may be then dished,
and garnished with a wreath of parsley, if for a cheese course ; if for
breakfast, put it into an ornamental butter-dish, with a little water
at the bottom, should the weather be very warm.

CURLED BUTTER.

1635. Tie a strong cloth by two of the corners to an iron hook in the
wall ; make a knot with the other two ends, so that a stick might pass

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

815.

through. Pat the butter into the cloth ; twist it tightly over a dish,
into which the butter will fall through the knot, so forming small and
pretty little strings. The butter may then be garnished with parsley,

1 1 if to serve with a cheese course ; or it may be sent to table plain for
breakfast, in an ornamental dish. Squirted butter for garnishing
I hams, salads, eggs, &c., is made by forming a piece of stiff paper in

I* the shape of a cornet, and squeezing the butter in fine strings from
the hole at the bottom. Scooped butter is made by dipping a teaspoon
or scooper in warm water, and then scooping the butter quickly
and thin. In warm weather, it would not be necessary to heat the
spoon.

Butter may be kept fresh for ten or twelve days by a very simple process. Knead it
well in cold water till the buttermilk is extracted ; then put it in a glazed jar, which
invert in another, putting into the latter a sufficient quantity of water to exclude the air.
Renew the water every day.

FAIRY BUTTER.

1636. Ingredients. — The yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 table-
spoonful of orange-flower water, 2 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar,
j lb. of good fresh butter.

Mode. — Beat the yolks of the eggs smoothly in a mortar, with the
orange-flower water and the sugar, until the whole is reduced to a
fine pgste ; add the butter, and force all through an old but clean
cloth by wringing the cloth and squeezing the butter very hard.
The butter will then drop on the plate in large and small pieces,
according to the holes in the cloth. Plain butter may be done in the
same manner, and is very quickly prepared, besides having a very
good effect.

Butter. — White-coloured butter is said not to be so good as the yellow ; but the-
yellow colour is often artificially produced, by the introduction of colouring matter into-
the chum. *■

ANCHOVY BUTTER.

1637. Ingredients. — To every lb. of butter allow 6 anchovies, I
small bunch of parsley.

Mode. — Wash, bone, and pound the anchovies well in a mortar
scald the parsley, chop it, and rub through a sieve ; then pound all
the ingredients together, mix well, and make the butter into pats
immediately. This makes a pretty dish, if fancifully moulded, for
breakfast or supper, and should be garnished with parsley.

Average cost, Is. 8d.

Sufficient to make 2 dishes, with 4 pats each.

Seasonulle at any time.

816

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERT.

CHEESE.

1638. In families where much cheese is consumed, and it is bought
in large quantities, a piece from the whole cheese should be cut, the
larger quantity spread with a thickly- buttered sheet of white paper,
and the outside occasionally wiped. To keep cheeses moist that are
in daily use, when they come from table a damp cloth should be
wrapped round them, and the cheese put into a pan with a cover to
it, in a cool but not very dry place. To ripen cheeses, and bring
them forward, put them into a damp cellar ; and, to check too large a
production of mites, spirits may be poured into the parts affected.
Pieces of cheese which are too near the rind, or too dry to put on
table, may be made into Welsh rare-bits, or grated down and mixed
with macaroni. Cheeses maybe preserved in a perfect state for years,
by covering them with parchment made pliable by soaking in water,
or by rubbing them over with a coating of melted fat. The cheeses
selected should be free from cracks or bruises of any kind.

Cheese. — It is well known that some persons like cheese in a state of decay, and
even “ alive.” There is no accounting for tastes, and it maybe hard to show why mould,
which is vegetation, should not be eaten as well as salad, or maggots as well as eels. But,
generally speaking, decomposing bodies are not wholesome eating, and the line must be
drawn somewhere.

STILTON CHEESE.

1639. Stilton cheese, or British Parmesan, as it is sometimes called,
is generally preferred to all other cheeses by those whose authority-

few will dispute. Those made in May or
J une are usually served at Christmas ; or,
to be in prime order, should be kept from
10 to 12 months, or even longer. An arti-
ficial ripeness in Stilton cheese is sometimes
produced by inserting a small piece of de-
cayed Cheshire into an aperture at thp top.
Prom 3 weeks to a month is sufficient time
to ripen the cheese. An additional llavour
may also be obtained by scooping out a piece from the top, and
pouring therein port, sherry, Madeira, or old ale, and letting the
cheese absorb these for 2 or 3 weeks. But that cheese is the finest
which is ripened without any artificial aid, is the opinion of those
who are judges in these matters. In serving a Stilton cheese, the top
of it should be cut off to form a lid, and a napkin or piece of white
paper, with a frill at the top, pinned round. When the cheese goes •

STILTON CHEESE.

from table, the lid should be replaced.

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

817

MODE OE SERVING CHEESE.

1640. The usual mode of serving cheese at good tables is to cut a
small quantity of it into neat square pieces, and to put them into a

I glass cheese-dish, this dish being handed round.

Should the cheese crumble much, of course
this method is rather wasteful, and it may
then be put on the table in the piece, and the
host may cut from it. When served thus, the
cheese must always be carefully scraped, and laid on a white d’oyley
or napkin, neatly folded. Cream cheese is often served in a cheese
course, and, sometimes, grated Parmesan : the latter should be put
into a covered glass dish. Rusks, cheese-biscuits, pats or slices of
butter, and salad, cucumber, or water-cresses, should always form
part of a cheese course.

Smoking Cheeses. — The Homans smoked their cheeses, to give them a sharp taste.

I They possessed public places expressly for this use, and subject to police regulations

I which no one could evade.

I A celebrated gourmand remarked that a dinner without cheese is like a woman with

I one eye.

CHEESE SANDWICHES.

1641. Ingredients. —Slices of brown bread-and-butter, thin slices
of cheese.

Mode. — Cut from a nice fat Cheshire, or any good rich cheese, some
slices about ! inch thick, and place them between some slices of brown
bread-and-butter, like sandwiches. Place them on a plate in the
oven, and, when the bread is toasted, serve on a napkin very hot and
very quickly.

Time. — 10 minutes in a brisk oven.

Average cost, 1 id. each sandwich.

Sufficient. — Allow a sandwich for each person.

Seasonable at any time.

Cheese. — One of the most important products of coagulated milk is cheese. Unfer-
mented, or cream-cheese, when quite fresh, is good for subjects with whom milk does
not disagree ; but cheese, in its commonest shape, is only fit for sedentary people, as
an after-dinner stimulant, and in very small quantity. Bread and cheese, as a meal, is
only fit for soldiers on march or labourers in the open air, who like it because it “ holds
the stomach a long time.”

CHEESE-GLASS.

CAYENNE CHEESES.

1642. Ingredients.—! lb. of butter, \ lb. of flour, \ lb. of grated
cheese, a teaspoonful of cayenne, J teaspoonful of salt ; water.

Mode. — Rub the butter in the flour ; add the grated cheese, cayenne
and salt ; and mix these ingredients well together. Moisten with
sufficient water to make the whole into a paste ; roll out, and cut into

3 G

818

modere household cookery.

fingers about 4 inches in length. Bake them in a moderate oven a
very light colour, and serve very hot.

Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost , Is. id.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.

TO MAKE A EOETDTJE.

1643. Ingredients. — 4 eggs, the weight of 2 in Parmesan or good !
Cheshire cheese, the weight of 2 in butter ; pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs ; beat the
former in a basin, and grate the cheese, or cut it into very thin flakes.
Parmesan or Cheshire cheese may be used, whichever is the most con-
venient, although the former is considered more suitable for this dish ;
or an equal quantity of each may be used. Break the butter into-
small pieces, add it to the other ingredients, with sufficient pepper
and salt to season nicely, and beat the mixture thoroughly. Well :
whisk the whites of the eggs, stir them lightly in, and either bake- .<
the fondue in a souffle-dish or small round cake-tin. Fill the dish
only half full, as the fondue should rise verj much. Pin a napkin
round the tin or dish, and serve very hot and very quickly. If
allowed to stand after it is withdrawn from the oven, the beauty and
lightness of this preparation will be entirely spoiled.

Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, 10 d.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BRILLAT SAVARIN’S EONDtJE.

(An excellent Recipe.)

1644. Ingredients.— Eggs, cheese, butter, pepper and salt.

Mode. — Take the same number of eggs as there are guests ; weigh

the eggs in the shell, allow a third of their weight in Gray ere cheese,
and a piece of butter one-sixth of the weight of the cheese. Break;:
the eggs into a basin, beat them well ; add the cheese, which should i
be grated, and the butter, which should be broken into small pieces, i
Stir these ingredients together with a wooden spoon ; put the mixture I
into a lined saucepan, place it over the fire, and stir until the sub- I
stance is thick and soft. Put in a little salt, according to the age
of the cheese, and a good sprinkling of pepper, and serve the fondue j
on a very hot silver or metal plate. Do not allow the fondue to remain :
on the fire after the mixture is set, as, if it boils, it will be entirely
spoiled. Brillat Savarin recommends that some choice Burgundy
should be handed round with this dish. We have given this recipe
exactly as he recommends it to be made; but we have tried it with
good Cheshire cheese, and found it answer remarkably well.

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGOS.

819

Time. — About 4 minutes to set the mixture.

Average cost for 4 persons, 10c?.

Sufficient— Allow 1 egg:, with the other ingredients in proportion,
for one -person.

Seasonable at any time.

MACARONI, as usually served with, the CHEESE COURSE.

1645. Inurements. — 1 lb. of pipe macaroni, \ lb. of butter, 6 oz. of
Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, pepper and salt to taste, 1 pint of milk,
2 pints of water, bread crumbs.

Mode. — Put the milk and water into a saucepan with sufficient salt
to flavour it ; place it on the fire, and, when it boils quickly, drop in
the macaroni. Keep the water boiling until it is quite tender ; drain
the macaroni, and put it into a deep dish. Have ready the grated
cheese, either Parmesan or Cheshire ; sprinkle it amongst the macaroni
and some of the butter cut into small pieces, reserving some of the
cheese for the top layer. Season with a little pepper, and cover
the top layer of cheese with some very fine bread crumbs. Warm,
without oiling, the remainder of the butter, and pour it gently over
the bread crumbs. Place the dish before a bright fire to brown the
crumbs ; turn it once or twice, that it may be equally coloured, and
serve very hot. The top of the macaroni may be browned with a
salamander, which is even better than placing it before the fire, as
the process is more expeditious ; but it should never be browned in
the oven, as the butter would oil, and so impart a very disagreeable
flavour to the dish. In boiling the macaroni, let it be perfectly ten-
der but firm, no part beginning to melt, and the form entirely pre-
served. It may be boiled in plain water, with a little salt instead
of using milk, but should then have a small piece of butter mixed
with it.

Time. — lj to If hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to brown it
before the fire.

Average cost , Is. 6 d.

Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Riband macaroni may be dressed in the same manner, but does not
require boiling so long a time,

II.

1646. Ingredients.— £ lb. of pipe or riband macaroni, i pint of
milk, \ pint of veal or beef gravy, the yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls
of cream, 3 oz. of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, 1 oz. of butter

3 a 2

820 MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — Wash the macaroni, and boil it in the gravy and milk until
quite tender, without being broken. Drain it, and put it into rather a
deep dish. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the cream and 2 table- j
spoonfuls of the liquor the macaroni was boiled in ; make this suf-
ficiently hot to thicken, but do not allow it to boil ; pour it over the I
macaroni, over which sprinkle the grated cheese and the butter I
broken into small pieces ; brown with a salamander, or before the fire, i
and serve.

Time. — 1| to If hour to boil the macaroni, 5 minutes to thicken the j
eggs and cream, 5 minutes to brown.

Average cost , Is. ‘Id.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

1647. Ingredients. — | lb. of pipe macaroni, h pint of brown gravy
No. 436, 6 oz. of grated Parmesan cheese.

Mode. — Wash the macaroni, and boil it in salt and water until
quite tender ; drain it, and put it into rather a deep dish. Have ready
a pint of good brown gravy, pour it hot over the macaroni, and send
it to table with grated Parmesan served on a separate dish. When
the flavour is liked, a little pounded mace may be added to the water
in which the macaroni is boiled ; but this must always be sparingly
added, as it will impart a very strong flavour.

Time. — l-g to If hour to boil the macaroni.

Average cost, with the gravy and cheese, Is. 3d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

POUNDED CHEESE.

1648. Ingredients. — To every lb. of cheese allow 3 oz. of fresh butter.

Mode. — To pound cheese is an economical way of using it, if it has I

become dry ; it is exceedingly good spread on bread, and is the best : I
way of eating it for those whose digestion is weak. Cut up the cheese J
into small pieces, and pound it smoothly in a mortar, adding butter I
in the above proportion. Press it down into a jar, cover with clarified
butter, and it will keep for several days. The flavour may be very
much increased by adding mixed mustard (about a teaspoonful to
every lb.), or cayenne, or pounded mace. Curry-powder is also not j
unfrequently mixed with it.

EAMAKINS, to serve with the CHEESE COUKSE.

1649. Ingredients. — f lb. of Cheshire cheese, ^ lb. of Parmesan:
cheese, f lb. of fresh butter, 4 eggs, the crumb of a small roll ; pepper,
salt, and pounded mace to taste.

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

S21

Mode— Boil the crumb of the roll in milk for 5 minutes ; strain, and
I put it into a mortar ; add the cheese, which should be finely scraped,
the butter, the yolks of the eggs, and seasoning, and pound these ingre-
dients well together. Whisk the whites of the eggs, mix them with
the paste, and put it into small pans or saucers, which should not be
more than half filled. Bake them from 10 to 12 minutes, and serve
them very hot and very quickly. This batter answers equally well
for macaroni after it is boiled tender.

Time. — 10 to 12 minutes. Average cost, Is. 4 d.

Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.

PASTRY EAMAKINS, to serve with, the CHEESE COURSE.

1650. Ingredients. — Any pieces of very good light puff-paste
Cheshire, Parmesan, or Stilton cheese.

Mode. — The remains or odd pieces of paste left from large tarts, &e.

I answer for making these little dishes. Gather up the pieces of paste,
roll it out evenly, and sprinkle it with grated cheese of a nice flavour.
Fold the paste in three, roll it out again, and sprinkle more cheese
over; fold the paste, roll it out, and with a paste-cutter shape it in
any way that may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven
from 10 to 15 minutes, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve quickly
The appearance of this dish may be very much improved by brushing
the ramakins over with yolk of egg before they are placed in the oven.
Where expense is not objected to, Parmesan is tbe best kind of cheese
to use for making this dish.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, with Jib. of paste, 10r7.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.

TOASTED CHEESE, or SCOTCH RARE-BIT.

1651. Ingredients. — A few slices of rich cheese, toast, mustard,
and pepper.

Mode.— Cut some nice rich sound cheese into rather thin slices ;
melt it in a cheese-toaster on a hot plate, or over steam, and, when
melted, add a small quantity of mixed mustard
and a seasoning of pepper; stir the cheese
until it is completely dissolved, then brown
it before the fire, or with a salamander. Fill
the bottom of the cheese-toaster with hot

HOT-WATEB CHEESE-DISH.

water, and serve with dry or buttered toasts, whichever may be pre-
ferred. Our engraving illustrates a cheese-toaster with hot-water
reservoir : the cheese is melted in the upper tin, which is placed in
another vessel of boiling water, so keeping the preparation beautifully

822

MODERN UODSEDOLD COOKERY.

hot. A small quantity of porter, or port wine, is sometimes mixed
with the cheese ; and, if it be not very rich, a few pieces of butter may
he mixed with it to great advantage. Sometimes the melted chec-se is
spread on the toasts, and then laid in the oheese-dish at the top of the.
hot water. Whichever way it is served, it is highly necessary that
the mixture be very hot, and very quickly sent to table, or it will be
worthless.

Time. — About 5 minutes to melt the cheese.

Average cost, 11(7. per slice.

Sufficient. — Allow a slice to each person. Seasonable at any time.

TOASTED CHEESE, or WELSH RARE-BIT.

1652. Ingredients. — Slices of bread, butter, Cheshire or Gloucester
cheese, mustard, and pepper.

Mode. — Cut the bread into slices about 1 inch in thickness ; pare off
the crust, toast the bread slightly without hardening or burning it,
and spread it with butter. Cut some slices, not quite so large as the
bread, from a good rich fat cheese ; lay them on the toasted bread in
a cheese-toaster ; be careful that the cheese does not burn, and let it
be equally melted. Spread over the top a little made mustard and a
seasoning of pepper, and serve very hot, with very hot plates. To
facilitate the melting of the cheese, it may be cut into thin flakes or
toasted on one side before it is laid on the bread. As it is so essential
to send this dish hot tb table, it is a good plan to melt the cheese in
small round silver or metal pans, and to send these pans to table,
allowing one for each guest. Slices of dry or buttered toast should
always accompany them, with mustard, pepper, and salt.

Time. — About 5 minutes to melt the cheese.

Average cost, 1|(7. each slice.

Sufficient. — Allow a slice to each person. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Should the cheese be dry, a little butter mixed with it will be an .
improvement.

“Cow Cheese.”— It was only fifty years after Aristotle— the fourth century before i
Christ — that butter began to be noticed as an aliment. The Greeks, in imitation of'
the Partliians and Scythians, who used to send it to them, hod it served^ upon their *
tables, and called it at first “ oil of milk,” audluter, bouturos, “ cow cheese.”

SCOTCH WOODCOCK.

1653. Ingredients.— A few slices of hot buttered toast ; allow
1 anchovy to each slice. Tor the sauce, — i pint of cream, the yolks \
of 3 eggs.

Mode. — Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs ; beat, the
former, stir to them the cream, and bring the sauce to the boiling- I

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

823

hot buttered toast, spread with anchovies pounded to a paste ; pour a
little of the hot sauce on the top, and serve very hot and very quickly.

Time. — 5 minutes to make the sauce hot.

Sufficient. — Allow i slice to each person. Seasonable at any time.

TO CHOOSE EGGS.

1654. In choosing eggs, apply the tongue to the large end of the
egg, and, if it feels warm, it is new, and may be relied on as a fresh
egg. Another mode of ascertaining their freshness is to hold them
before a lighted candle, or to the light, and if the egg looks clear, it
will be tolerably good ; if thick, it is stale ; and if there is a black
spot attached to the shell, it is worthless. No egg should be used for
culinary purposes with the slightest taint in it, as it will render
perfectly useless those with which it has been mixed. Eggs that are
purchased, and that cannot be relied on, should always be broken in
a cup, and then put into a basin : by this means stale or bad eggs
may be easily rejected, without wasting the others.

Eggs contain, for their volume, a greater quantity of nutriment than any other article
of food. But it does not follow that they are always good for weak stomachs ; quite the
contrary ; for it is often a great object to give the stomach a large surface to work upon,
a considerable volume of iugesta, over which the nutritive matter is diffused, and so
exposed to the action of the gastric juice at many points. There are many persons who
cannot digest eggs, however cooked. It is said, however, that their digestibility decreases
in proportion to the degree in which they are hardened by boiling.

TO KEEP EGGS FKESH POE. SEVEEAL WEEKS.

1655. Have ready a large saucepan, capable of holding 3 or 4 quarts,
full of boiling water. Put the eggs into a cabbage-net, say 20 at a
time, and hold them in the water (which must be kept boiling) for 20
seconds. Proceed in this manner till you have done as many eggs as
you wish to preserve ; then pack them away in sawdust. We have
tried this method of preserving eggs, and can vouch for its excellence :
they will be found, at the end of 2 or 3 months, quite good enough
for culinary purposes ; and although the w'hite may be a littleAougher
than that of a new-laid egg, the yolk will be nearly the same. Many
persons keep eggs for a long time by smearing the shells with butter
or sweet oil : they should then be packed in plenty of bran or sawdust,
and the eggs not allowed to touch each other. Eggs for storing should
be collected in fine weather, and should not be more than 24 hours
old when they are packed away, or then- flavour, when used, cannot
be relied on. Another simple way of preserving eggs is to immerse
them in lime-wator soon after they have been laid, and then to put
the vessel containing the lime-water in a cellar or cool outhouse.

824

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Seasonable. — The best time for preserving eggs is from July to
September.

Egos. — The quality of eggs is said to be very much affected by the food of the fowls
who lay them. Herbs and grain together make a better food than grain only. When
the hens eat too many insects, the eggs have a disagreeable flavour.

TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, SALADS, &c.

1656. Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, or boiled too soon after I
they are laid ; but rather a longer time should be allowed for boiling 1
a new-laid egg than for one that is three or four days old. Have
ready a saucepan of boiling water ; put the eggs into it gently with a
spoon, letting the spoon touch the bottom of the saucepan before it is

withdrawn, that the egg may not fall,
and consequently crack. For those who
like eggs lightly boiled, 3 minutes will
be found sufficient ; to 4 minutes will
be ample time to set the white nicely ;
and, if liked hard, G to 7 minutes will
not be found too long. Should the eggs
be unusually large, as those of black
Spanish fowls sometimes are, allow an

egg-stamti foe the ERAicrAsr- extra 1 minute for them. Eggs for

TABLE. .

salads should be boiled from 10 minutes
to 5 hour, and should be placed in a basin of cold water for a few
minutes ; they should then be rolled on the table with the hand, and
the shell will peel off easily.

Time. — To boil eggs lightly, for invalids or children, 3 minutes ;
to boil eggs to suit the generality of tastes, 3| to 4 minutes ; to boil
eggs hard, 6 to 7 minutes ; for salads, 10 to 15 minutes.

Note. — Silver or plated egg-diskes, like that shown in our engraving, are
now very much used. The price of the one illustrated is £2. 2s., and may bo
purchased of Messrs. R. & J. Slack, 336, Strand.

Eggs. — When fresh eggs are dropped into a vessel full of boiling water, they crack,
because the eggs being well filled, the shells give way to the efforts of the interior fluids,
dilated by heat. If the volume of hot water be small, the shells do not crack, beenuse
its temperature is reduced by the eggs before the interior dilation can take place.
Stale eggs, again, do not crack, because the air inside is easily compressed.

BUTTERED EGGS.

1657. Ingredients.— 4 new-laid eggs, 2 oz. of butter.

Mode. — Procure the eggs new-laid if possible ; break them into a
basin, and beat them well ; put the butter into another hasin, which
place in boiling water, and stir till the butter is melted. Pour that
and the eggs into a lined saucepan ; hold it over a gentle lire, and, as

MILK, BUTTEK, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

825

the mixture begins to warm, pour it two or three times into the basin,
and back again, that the two ingredients may be well incorporated.
Keep stirring the eggs and butter one way until they are hot, without
boiling, and serve on hot buttered toast. If the mixture is allowed
to boil, it will curdle, and so be entirely spoiled.

Time. — About 5 minutes to make the eggs hot. Average cost, 7 d.

Sufficient. — Allow a slice to each person. Seasonable at any time.

DUCKS’ EGGS.

1658. Ducks’ eggs are usually so strongly flavoured that, plainly
boiled, they are not good for eating ; they answer, however, very well
for various culinary preparations where eggs are required ; such as
custards, &c. &c. Being so large and highly-flavoured, 1 duck’s
egg will go as far as 2 small hen’s eggs ; besides making whatever
they are mixed with exceedingly rich. They also are admirable
when used in puddings.

Primitive Method of Cooking Eggs. — The shepherds of Egypt had a singular
manner of cooking egg3 without the aid of fire. They placed them in a sling, which
they turned so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the exact point
required for use.

FRIED EGGS.

1659- Ingredients. — 4- eggs, 5 lb. of lard, butter or clarified
dripping.

Mode. — Place a delicately-elean frying-pan over a gentle fire ; put
in the fat, and allow it to come to the boiling-point. Break the eggs
into cups, slip them into the boiling fat, and
let them remain until the whites are deli-
cately set ; and, whilst they are frying, ladle
a little of the fat over them. Take them up
with a slice, drain them for a minute from
their greasy moisture, trim them neatly, and serve on slices of fried
bacon or ham ; or the eggs may be placed in the middle of the dish,
with the bacon put round as a garnish.

Time. 2 to 3 minutes. Average cost, Id. each ; 2 cl. when scarce.

Sufficient for 2 persons. Seasonable at any time.

FRIED EGGS ON BACON.

Veneration for Eggs. — Many of tlie most learned philosophers held eggs in a kind
oi respect, approaching to veneration, because they saw in them the emblem of the world
and the four elements. The shell, they said, represented the earth ; the white, water •
the yolk, lire; and air was found under the shell at ono end of the egg

EGGS A LA MAITRE D’HOTEL.

1660. Ingredients. — £ lb. of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour,
* Pint of miik. pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced
parsley, the juice of I lemon, 6 eggs.

826

modern household cookery.

Mode.— Put the flour and half the butter into a stewpan ; stir them
over the fire until the mixture thickens ; pour in the milk, which
should be boiling ; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer the
whole for 5 minutes. Put the remainder of the butter into the sauce,
and add the minced parsley ; then boil the eggs hard, strip off the
shells, cut the eggs into quarters, and put them on a dish. Bring the
sauce to the boiling-point, add the lemon-j uice, pour over the eggs,
and serve.

Time.— 5 minutes to boil the sauce ; the eggs, 10 to 15 minutes.

Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

OEUFS AU PLAT, or AU MIROIR, served on the Dish in
which they are Cooked.

1661. Ingredients.— 4 eggs, 1 oz. of butter, pepper and salt to
taste.

Mode. — Butter a dish rather thickly with good fresh butter ; melt
it, break the eggs into it the same as for poaching, sprinkle them
with white pepper and fine salt, and put the remainder of the butter,
cut into very small pieces, on the top of them. Put the dish on a hot
plate, or in the oven, or before the fire, and let it remain until the
whites become set, but not hard, when serve immediately, placing the
dish they were cooked in on another. To hasten the cooking of the
eggs, a salamander may be held over them for a minute ; but great
care must be taken that they are not too much done. This is an
exceedingly nice dish, and one very easily prepared for breakfast.

Time. — 3 minutes. Average cost, 5 d.

Sufficient fox 2 persons. Seasonable at any time.

PLOVERS’ EGGS.

1662. Plovers’ eggs are usually served boiled hard, and sent to
table in a napkin, either hot or cold. They may also be shelled, and
served the same as eggs a la Tripe, with a good Bechamel sauce, or
brown gravy, poured over them. They are also used for decorating
salads, the beautiful colour of the white being generally so much
admired.

POACHED EGGS.

1663. Ingredients. — Eggs, water. To every pint of water allow
1 tablespoonful of vinegar.

Mode. — Eggs for poaching should be perfectly fresh, but not quite
new-laid ; those that are about 36 hours old are the best for the
purpose. If quite new-laid, the white is so milky it is almost impos-

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

827

3SGGS POACHED ON TOAST.

sible to sot it ; and, on the other hand, if the egg be at all stale, it is
equally difficult to poach it nicely. Strain some boiling water into a
deep clean frying-pan ; break the egg into a cup without damaging
the yolk, and, when the water boils, remove the pan to the side of the
fire, and gently slip the egg into it. Place the pan over a gentle fire,
and keep the water simmering until the white looks nicely set, when
the egg is ready. Take it up gently with a slice, cut away the ragged
edges of the vffiite, and serve either on toasted bread or on slices
of ham or bacon, or on spinach, &e. A
poached egg should not be overdone, as its
appearance and taste will be quite spoiled
if the yolk be allowed to harden. When
the egg is slipped
into the water, the
white, should be
gathered together,
to keep it a little
in form, or the cup should be turned over it for 1 minute. To poach
an egg to perfection is rather a difficult operation ; so, for inexpe-
rienced cooks, a tin egg-poacher may be purchased, ■which greatly
facilitates this manner of dressing eggs. Our illustration clearly
shows what it is : it consists of a tin plate with a handle, with a
space for three perforated cups. An egg should be broken into each
cup, and the machine then placed in a stewpan of boiling water,
which has been previously strained. When the whites of the eggs
appear set, they are done, and should then be carefully slipped on to
the toast or spinach, or with whatever they are served. In poaching
eggs in a frying-pan, never do more than four at a time ; and, when
a little vinegar is liked mixed with the water in which the eggs are
done, use the above proportion.

Time. — 2-1 to 31 minutes, according to the size of the egg.

Sufficient. — Allow 2 eggs to each person.

Seasonable at any time, but less plentiful in winter.

POACHED EGGS, WITH CREAM.

1664. Ingbedients. — 1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 4 tea-
spoonfuls of vinegar, 4 fresh eggs, | gill of cream, salt, pepper, and
pounded sugar to taste, 1 oz. of butter.

Mode. — Put the water, vinegar, and salt into a frying-pan, and break
each egg into a separate cup ; bring the water, &c. to boil, and slip
the eggs gently into it without breaking the yolks. Simmer them
from 3 to 4 minutes, but not longer, and, with a slice, lift them out on

828

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

to a hot dish, and trim the edges. Empty the pan of its contents, put
in the cream, add a seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded
sugar; bring the whole to the boiling-point; then add the butter,
broken into small pieces ; toss the pan round and round till the butter
is melted ; pour it over the eggs, and serve. To insure the eggs not
being spoiled whilst the cream, &c., is preparing, it is a good plan to
warm the cream with the butter, &c., before the eggs are poached, so
that it may be poured over them immediately after they are dished.

Time. — 3 to 4 minutes to poach the eggs, 5 minutes to warm the
cream.

Average cost for the above quantity, 9 d.

Sufficient for 2 persons. Seasonable at any time.

SCOTCH EGGS.

1666. Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of forcemeat Ho. 417,
hot lard, i pint of good brown gravy.

Mode. — Boil the eggs for 10 minutes ; strip them from the shells,
and cover them with forcemeat made by recipe Ho. 417 ; or substitute
pounded anchovies for the ham. Fry the eggs a nice brown in boiling
lard, drain them before the fire from their greasy moisture, dish them,
and pour round from ~ to i pint of good brown gravy. To enhance
the appearance of the eggs, they may be rolled in beaten egg and
sprinkled with bread crumbs ; but this is scarcely necessary 'if they
are carefully fried. The flavour of the ham or anchovy in the force-
meat must preponderate, as it should be very relishing.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the eggs, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.

Average cost , Is. 4 d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE, AND EGGS.

829

EGGS A LA TRIPE.

1667. Ingredients. — 8 eggs, § pint of Bechamel sauce Ho. 368,

dessertspoonful of finely-minced parsley.

Mode.— Boil the eggs hard ; put them into cold water, peel them,
take out the yolks -whole, and shred the whites. Make f pint of
Bechamel sauce by recipe No. 368 ; add the parsley, and, when the
sauce is quite hot, put the yolks of the eggs into the middle of the
dish, and the shred whites round them ; pour oyer the sauce, and
garnish with leaves of puff-paste or fried croutons. There is no
necessity for putting the eggs into the saucepan with the Bechamel ;
the sauce, being quite hot, will warm the eggs sufficiently.

Time. — 10 minutes to boil the eggs. Average cost, \s.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

CHAPTER XXXIY.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS,
AND CAKES,

BREAD AND BREAD-MAKING.

166S. Among the numerous vegetable products yielding articles of food for
man, the Cereals hold the first place. By means of skilful cultivation, mankind
have transformed the original forms of these growths, poor and ill-flavoured
as they perhaps were, into various fruitful and agreeable species, which yield an
abundant and pleasant supply. Classified accordingto their respective richness
in alimentary elements, the Cereals stand thus : — Wheat, and its varieties, Rye,
Bailey, Oats, Rice, Indian Corn. jEverybody feho'f're St is wheat Horn- which
yields the best bread. Rye-bread is viscous, hard, less easily soluble by the
gastric juice, and not so rich in nutritive power. Flour produced from barley,
Indian corn, or rice, is not so readily made into bread ; and the article, when
made, is heavy and indigestible.

1669. On examining a grain of corn from any of the numerous cereals* used
in the preparation of flour, such as wheat, maize, rye, barley, &c., it will be
found to consist of two parts, — the husk, or exterior covering, which is gene-
rally of a dark colour, and the inner, or albuminous part, which is more or less

Cereal , a corn-producing plant ; from Cores, the goddess of agriculture.

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

831

white. In grinding, these two portions are separated, and the husk being blown
away in the process of winnowing, the flour remains in the form of a light
brown powder, consisting principally of starch and gluten. In order to render
it white, it undergoes a process called “bolting.” It is passed through a
series of fine sieves, which separate the coarser parts, leaving behind fine
white flour,— the “ fine firsts ” of the corn-dealer. The process of bolting, as
just described, tends to deprive flour of its gluten, the coarser and darker
portion containing much of that substance ; while the lighter part is peculiarly
rich in starch. Bran contains a large proportion of gluten j hence it will be
seen why brown bread is so much more nutritious than white j in fact, we
may lay it down as a general rule, that the whiter the bread the less nourish-
ment it contains. Majendie proved this by feeding a dog for forty days with
white wheaten bread, at the end of which time he died ; while another dog,
fed on brown bread made with flour mixed with bran, lived without any dis-
turbance of his health. The “bolting” process, then, is rather injurious
than beneficial in its result ; and is one of the numerous instances where
fashion has chosen a wrong standard to go by. In ancient times, down to the
Emperors, no bolted flour was known. In many parts of Germany the entire
meal is used ; and in no part of the world are the digestive organs of the
people in a better condition. In years of famine, when coni is scarce, the use
of bolted flour is most culpable, for from 18 to 20 per cent, is lost in bran.
Brown bread has, of late years, become very popular ; and many physicians
have recommended it to invalids with weak digestions with great success.
This rage for white bread has introduced adulterations of a very serious
character, affecting the health of the whole community. Potatoes are added
for this purpose ; but this is a comparatively harmless cheat, only reducing
the nutritive property of the bread ; but bone-dust and alum are also put in,
which are far from harmless.

1670. Bread-making is a very ancient art indeed. The Assyrians, Egyptians,
and Greeks, used to make bread, in which oil, with aniseed and other spices,
was an element ; but this was unleavened. Every family used to prepare the
bread for its own consumption, the trade of baking not having yet taken shape.
It is said, that somewhere about the beginning of the thirtieth Olympiad, the
slave of an archon, at Athens, made leavened bread by accident. He had left
some wheaten dough in an earthen pan, and forgotten it ; some days after-
wards, he lighted upon it again, and found it turning sour. His first thought
was to throw it away ; but, his master coming up, he mixed this now acescent
dough with some fresh dough, which he was working at. The bread thus
produced, * by the introduction of dough in which alooholic fermentation had
begun, was found delicious by the archon and his friends ; and the slave, being
summoned and catechised, told the secret. It spread all over Athens ; and
everybody wanting leavened bread at once, certain persons set up as bread-
makers, or bakers.- In a short time bread-baking became quite an art, and
“Athenian bread” was quoted all over Greece as the best bread, just as the
honey of Hymettus was celebrated as the best honey.

832

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1671. In our own times, and among civilized peoples, bread has become an
article of food of tho first necessity ; and properly so, for it constitutes of
itself a complete lifo-sustainer, tho gluten, starch, and sugar, which it con-
tains, representing azotized and hydro-carbonated nutrients, and combining
the sustaining powers of the animal and vegetable kingdoms in one product.

1672. Wheaten Bread. — Tho finest, wholcsomest, and most savoury bread
is made from wheaten flour. There arc, of wheat, three leading qualities, —
the soft, the medium, and the hard wheat ; the last of which yields a kind of
bread that is not so white as that made from soft wheat, but is richer in
gluten, and, consequently, more nutritive.

1673. Rye Bread. — This comes next to wheaten bread : it is not so rich in
gluten, but is said to keep fresh longer, and to have some laxative qualities.

1674. Barley Bread, Indian-Corn Bread, &c. — Bread made from barley,
maize, oats, rice, potatoes, &c. “rises” badly, because the grains in question
contain but little gluten, which makes the bread heavy, close in texture, and
difficult of digestion ; in fact, corn-flour has to bo added before panification
can take place. In countries whpre wheat is scarce and maize abundant, the
people make the latter a chief article of sustenance, when prepared in different
forms.

BREAD-MAKING.

1675. Panification, or bread-making, consists of the following processes, in
the case of Wheaten Flour. Fifty or sixty per cent, of water is added to the
flour, with the addition of some leavening matter, and, preferably, of yeast
from malt and hops. All kinds of leavening matter have, however, been,
and are still used in different parts of the world : in the East Indies, “toddy,”
which is a liquor that flows from the wounded cocoa-nut tree ; and, in the
West Indies, “dunder,” or the refuse of the distillation of rum. The dough
then undergoes the well-known process called kneading. The yeast produces
fermentation, a process which may be thus described : — The dough reacting
upon the leavening matter introduced, tho starch of the flour is transformed
into saccharine matter, the saccharine matter being afterwards changed into
alcohol and carbonic acid. The dough must be well “bound,” and yet allow
the escape of the little bubbles of carbonic acid which accompany the fermen-
tation, and which, in their passage, cause the numerous little holes which
are seen in light bread.

1676. The yeast must be good and fresh, if the bread is to be digestible and
nice. Stale yeast produces, instead of vinous fermentation, an acetous fer-
mentation, which flavours the bread and makes it disagreeable. A poor thin

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

833

t produces an imperfect fermentation, the result being a heavy unwhole-
some loaf.

1677. When the dough is well kneaded, it is left to stand for some time, and
then, as soon as it begins to swell, it is divided into loaves ; after which it is
again left to stand, when it once more swells up, and manifests, for the last
time, the symptoms of fermentation. It is then put into the oven, where the
water contained in the dough is partly evaporated, and the loaves swell up
again, while a yellow crust begins to form upon the surface. When the bread
is sufficiently baked, the bottom crust is hard and resonant if struck with the
finger, while the crumb is elastic, and rises again after being pressed down
with the finger. The bread is, in all probability, baked sufficiently if, on
opening the door of the oven, you are met by a cloud of steam which quickly
passes away.

1678. One word as to the unwholesomeness of new bread and hot rolls.
When bread is taken out of the oven, it is full of moisture ; the starch is held
together in masses, and the bread, instead of being crusted so as to expose
each grain of starch to the saliva, actually prevents their digestion by being
formed by the teeth into leathery poreless masses, which lie on the stomach
like so many bullets. Bread should always be at least a day old before it is
eaten ; and, if properly made, and kept in a cool dry place, ought to be per-
fectly soft and palatable at the end of three or four days. Hot rolls, swim-
ming in melted butter, and new bread, ought to be carefully shunned by
everybody who has the slightest respect for that much-injured individual—
the Stomach.

1679- Aerated Bread. — It is not unknown to some of our readers that Dr.
Dauglish, of Malvern, has recently patented a process for making bread “ light”
without the use of leaven. The ordinary process of bread-making by fer-
mentation is tedious, and much labour of human hands is requisite in the
kneading, in order that the dough may be thoroughly interpenetrated with
the leaven. The new process impregnates the bread, by the application
of machinery, with carbonic acid gas, or fixed air. Different opinions are
expressed about the bread ; but it is curious to note, that, as corn is now
reaped by machinery, and dough is baked by machinery, the whole process of
bread-making is probably in course of undergoing changes which will eman-
cipate both the housewife and the professional baker from a large amount
of labour.

1680. In the production of Aerated Bread, wheaten flour, water, salt, and
carbonic acid gas (generated by proper machinery), are the only materials
employed. We need not inform our readers that carbonic acid gas is the
source of the effervescence, whether in common water coming from a depth,
or in lemonade, or any aerated drink. Its action, in the new bread, takes tho
place of fermentation in the old.

3 H

83d

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1681. In the patent process, the dough is mixed in a great iron hall, inside
which is a system of paddles, perpetually turning, and doing the kneading 1
part of the business. Into this globe the flour is dropped till it is full, and
then the common atmospheric air is pumped out, and the pure gas turned
on. Tho gas is followed by the water, which has been aerated for the pur-
pose, and then begins the churning or kneading part of the business.

1682. Of course, it is not long before we have the dough, and very “ light ”
and nice it looks. This is caught in tins, and passed on to the floor of the
oven, which is an endless floor, moving slowly through the fire. Done to a
turn, the loaves emerge at the other end of the apartmeut, — and tho Aerated
Bread is made.

1683. It may be added, that it is a good plan to change one’s baker from
time to time, and so secure a change in the quality of the bread that is eaten.

1684. Mixed Breads. — Bye bread is hard of digestion, and requires longer
and slower baking than wheaten bread. It is bettor wher. made with leaven
of wheaten flour rather than yeast, and turns oul lighter. It should not be
eaten till two days old. It will keep a long time.

1685. A good bread may be made by mixing rye-flour, wheat- flour, and
rice-paste in equal proportions ; also by mixing rye, wheat, and barley. In
Norway, it is said that they only bake their barley bread once a year, such is
its “keeping” quality.

1686. Indian-corn flour mixed with wheat-flour (half with half) makes a nice
bread ; but it is not considered very digestible, though it keeps well.

1687. Rice cannot be made into bread, nor can potatoes ; but one-third
potato-flour to three-fourths wheaten flour makes a tolerably good loaf.

1688. A very good bread, better than the ordinary sort, and of a delicious
flavour, is said to be produced by adopting the following recipe : — Take ten
parts of wheat-flour, five parts of potato-flour, one part of rice-paste ; knead
together, add the yeast, and bake as usual. This is, of course, cheaper than
wheaten bread.

1689. Flour, when freshly ground, is too glutinous to make good bread, and
should therefore not be used immediately, but should be kept dry for a few
weeks, and stirred occasionally, until it becomes dry, and crumbles easily
between the fingers.

1690. Flour should be perfectly dry before being used for bread or cakes ; if
at all damp, the preparation is sure to be heavy. Before mixing it with the
other ingredients, it is a good plan to place it for an hour or two beforo tho
fire, until it feels warm and dry.

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

835

169 1. Y east from home-brewed beer is generally preferred to any other : it is
ery bitter, and, on that account, should bo well washed, and put away imtil the
hick mass settles. If it still continues bitter, the process should be repeated ;
nd, before being used, all the water floating at the top must be poured off.
Jerman yeast is now very much used, and should be moistened, and thoroughly
nixed with the milk or water with which the bread is to be made.

1692. The following observations are extracted -from a valuable work on
Bread-making,* and will be found very useful to our readers : —

1693. The first thing required for making wholesome bread is the utmost
ileanliness ; the next is the soundness and sweetness of all the ingredients
ised for it ; and, in addition to these, there must be attention and care through
the whole process.

1694. An almost certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it half-made, and
Ito allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other most common
causes of failure are using yeast which is no longer sweet, or which has been
frozen, or has had hot liquid poured over it.

1695. Too small a proportion of yeast, or insufficient time allowed for the
'dough to rise, will cause the bread to be heavy.

169 6. Heavy bread will also most likely be the result of making the dough
very hard, and letting it become quite cold, particularly in winter.

1697. If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork itself,
that is to say, if the mixing and kneading be neglected when it has reached
the proper point for either, sour bread will probably be the consequence in
warm weather, and bad bread in any. The goodness will also be endangered
by placing it so near a fire as to make any part of it hot, instead of main-
taining the gentle and equal degree of heat required for its due fermentation.

1698. Milk or Butter. — Milk which is not perfectly sweet will not only
injure the flavour of the bread, but, in sultry weather, will often cause it to be
quite uneatable ; yet either of them, ii fresh and good, will materially improve
its quality.

1699. To keep bread sweet and fresh, as soon as it is cold it should be put
into a clean earthen pan, with a cover to it : this pan should be placed at a
little distance from the ground, to allow a current of air to pass underneath.
Some persons prefer keeping bread on clean wooden shelves, without being
covered, that the crust may not soften. Stale bread may bo freshened by
warming it through in a gentle oven. Stale pastry, cakes, &c., may also be
improved by this method.

u The English Bread-Book.” By Eliza Acton, London : Longman.

3 H 2

830

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1700. Tko utensils required for making bread, on a moderate scale, area
kneading-trough or pan, sufficiently largo that the dough may be kneaded
freely without throwing the flour over tho edges, and also to allow for its
rising ; a hair sieve for straining yeast, and one or two strong spoons.

1701. Yeast must always be good of its kind, and in a fitting state to pro-
duce ready and proper fermentation. Yeast of strong beer or ale produces
more effect than that of milder kinds ; and the fresher the yeast, the smaller
tho quantity will be required to raise the dough.

1702. As a general rule, tho oven for baking bread should be rather quick,
and the heat so regulated as to penetrate the dough without hardening the
outside. The oven door should not be opened after the bread is put in until
the dough is set, or has become firm, as tho cool air admitted will have an
unfavourable effect on it.

1703. Brick ovens are generally considered the best adapted for baking
bread : these should be heated with wood faggots, and then swept and mopped
out, to cleanse them for the reception of the bread. Iron ovens are more diffi-
cult to manage, being apt to burn the surface of the bread before the middle is
baked. To remedy this, a few clean bricks should bo sot at the bottom of the
oven, close togethex-, to receive the tins of bread. In many modern stoves
the ovens are so much improved that they bake admirably ; and they can
always be brought to the required temperature, when it is higher than is
needed, by leaving the door open for a time._

A FEW HINTS respecting tlie Making and Baking of CAKES.

1 704. Eggs should always be broken into a cup, the whites and yolks sepa-
rated, and they should always be strained. Breaking the eggs thus, tho bad
ones may be easily rejected without spoiling the others, and so cause no waste.
As eggs are used instead of yeast, they should be very thoroughly whisked ;
they are generally sufficiently beaten when thick enough to carry tho drop that
falls from the whisk.

1705. Loaf Sugar should be well pounded, and then sifted through a
fine sieve.

1706. Currants should be nicely washed, picked, dried in a cloth, and then
carefully examined, that no pioccs of grit or stono may bo left amongst them.
They should then bo laid on a dish before tho fire, to become thoroughly dry ;
as, if added damp to tho other ingredients, cakes will bo liable to be heavy.

1 707. Good Butter should always bo used in the manufacture of cakes ; and
if beaten to a cream, it saves much timo and labour to warm, but not melt, it
before beating.

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

837

1708. Loss butter and eggs are required for. cakes when yeast is mixed with
the other ingredients.

1709. The heat of the oven is of great importance, especially for large
cakes. If the heat be not tolerably fierce, the batter will not rise. If the oven
is too quick, and there is any danger of the cake burning or catching, put a
sheet of clean paper over the top. Newspaper, or paper that has been printed
on, should never be used for this purpose.

1710. To know when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a clean knife into
the middle of it ; draw it quickly out, and if it looks in the least sticky, put
the cake back, and close the oven door until the cake is done.

1711. Cakes should be kept in closed tin canisters or jars, and in a dry
place. Those made with yeast do not keep so long as those made without it.

BISCUITS.

1712. Since the establishment of the large modern biscuit manufactories,
biscuits have been produced both cheap and wholesome, in, comparatively-
speaking, endless variety. Their actual component parts are, perhaps,
known only to the various makers ; but there ai-e several kinds of biscuits
which have long been in use, that may here be advantageously described.

1713. Biscuits belong to the class of unfermented bread, and are, perhaps,
the most wholesome of that class. In cases where fermented bread does not
agree with the human stomach, they may be recommended : in many
instances they are considered lighter, and less liable to create acidity and
flatulence. The name is derived from the French Lis cuit, “ twice-baked,”
because, originally, that was the mode of entirely depriving them of all
moisture, to insure then- keeping ; but, although that process is no longer
employed, the name is retained. The use of this kind of bread on land is
pretty general, and some varieties are luxuries ; but, at sea, biscuits are
articles of the first necessity.

1714. Sea, or Ship Biscuits, are made of wheat-flour from which only the
coarsest bran has been separated. The dough is made up as stiff as it can be
worked, and is then formed into shapes, and baked in an oven ; after which,
the biscuits are exposed in lofts over the oven until perfectly dry, to prevent
them from becoming mouldy when stored.

1715- Captains’ Biscuits are made in a similar manner, only of fine

flour.

RECIPES

•<>,

CHAPTER XXXY.

TO MAKE YEAST FOE BREAD.

1716. Ingredients. — If oz. of hops, 3 quarts of water, 1 lb. of
bruised malt, i pint of yeast.

Mode. — Boil the hops in the water for 20 Ininutes ; let it stand for
about 5 minutes, then add it to 1 lb. of bruised malt prepared as for
brewing. Let the mixture stand covered till about lukewarm ; then
put in not quite 5 pint of yeast ; keep it warm, and let it work 3 or 4
hours ; then put it into small 5-pint bottles (ginger-beer bottles are the
best for the purpose), cork them well, and tie them down. The yeast
is now ready for use ; it will keep good for a few weeks, and 1 bottle
will be found sufficient for 18 lbs. of flour. When required for use,
boil 3 lbs. of potatoes without salt, mash them in the same water
in which they were boiled, and rub them through a colander. Stir
in about § lb. of flour ; then put in the yeast, pour it in the middle
of the flour, and let it stand warm on the hearth all night, and
in the morning let it be quite warm when it is kneaded. The
bottles of yeast require very careful opening, as it is generally ex-
ceedingly ripe.

Time. — 20 minutes to boil the hops and water, the yeast to work
3 or 4 hours.

Sufficient. — l pint sufficient for 18 lbs. of flour.

KIEKLEATHAM YEAST.

1717. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of hops, 4 quarts of water, 1 lb. of flour,

-a pint of yeast.

Mode. — Boil the hops and water for 20 minutes ; strain, and mix
with the liquid i lb. of flour and not quite i pint of yeast. Bottle
it up, and tie the corks down. When wanted for use, boil potatoes
according to the quantity of bread to be made (about 3 lbs. are suffi-
cient for about a peck of flour) ; mash them, add to them 4 lb. of Hour, ;

BKEAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

839

and mix about £ pint of tbe yeast with them ; let this mixture stand
all day, and lay the bread to rise the night before it is wanted.

Time— 20 minutes to boil the hops and water.

Sufficient. — -V pint of this yeast sufficient for a peck of flour, or
rather more.

TO MAKS GOOD HOME-MADE BKEAD.

(Miss Acton's Recipe.)

1718. Ingredients. — 1 quartern of flour, 1 large tablespoonful of
solid brewer’s yeast, or nearly 1 oz. of fresh German yeast, l| to It
pint of warm milk-and-water.

Mode.— Put the flour into a large earthenware bowl or deep pan ;
then, with a strong metal or wooden spoon, hollow out the middle ;
but do not clear it entirely away from the bottom of the pan, as, in

COTTAGE LOAP. TTN BREAD.

that case, the sponge (or leaven, as it was formerly termed) would
stick to it, which it ought not to do. Next take either a large table-
spoonful of brewer’s yeast which has been rendered solid by mixing
it with plenty of cold water, and letting it afterwards stand to settle
for a day and night ; or nearly an ounce of German yeast ; put it into
a large basin, and proceed to mix it, so that it shall be as smooth as
cream, with f pint of warm milk-and-water, or with water only ;
though even a very little milk will much improve the bread. Pour
the yeast into the hole made in the flour, and stir into it as much of
that which lies round it as will make a thick batter, in which there
must be no lumps. Strew plenty of flour on the top ; throw a thick
clean cloth over, and set it where the air is warm ; but do not place
it upon the kitchen fender, for it will become too much heated there.
Look at it from time to time : when it has been laid for nearly an
hour, and when the yeast has risen and broken through the flour, so
that bubbles appear in it, you will know that it is ready to be made
up into dough. Then place the pan on a strong chair, or dresser, or
table, of convenient height ; pour into the sponge the remainder of
the warm milk-and-water ; stir into it as much of the flour as you
can with the spoon ; then wipe it out clean with your fingers, and lay
it aside. Next take plenty of the remaining flour, throw it on the

810 MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

top of the leaven, and begin, with the knuckles of both hands, to
knead it well. When the hour is nearly all kneaded in, begin to
draw the edges of the dough towards the middle, in order to mix the
whole thoroughly; and when it is free from hour and lumps and
crumbs, and does not stick to the hands when touched, it will be done,
and may again be covered with the cloth, and left to rise a second
time. In f hour look at it, and should it have swollen very much,
and begin to crack, it will be light enough to bake. Turn it then on
to a paste-board or very clean dresser, and with a large sharp knife
divide it in two ; make it up quickly into loaves, and dispatch it
to the oven : make one or two incisions across the tops of the loaves,
as they will rise more easily if this be done. If baked in tins or pans,
rub them with a tiny piece of butter laid on a piece of clean paper,
to prevent the dough from sticking to them. All bread should be
turned upside down, or on its side, as soon as it is drawn from the
oven : if this be neglected, the under part of the loaves will become
wet and blistered from the steam, which cannot then escape from
them. To make the dough without setting a sponge, merely mix the
yeast with the greater part of the warm milk-and-water, and wet up
the whole of the flour at once after a little salt has been stirred in,
proceeding exactly, in every other respect, as in the direc-
tions just given. As the dough will soften in the rising,
it should be made quite firm at first, or it will be too lithe
by the time it is ready for the oven.

Time. — To be left to rise an hour the first time, f hour
the second time ; to be baked from 1 to l£ hour, or baked
in one loaf from li to 2 hours.

Italian Millet, or Great Indian Millet, is cultivated in Egypt and
Nubia, where it is called dhourra, and is used as human food, as well as
for the fermentation of beer. It will grow on poor soils, and is extremely
productive. It ha3 been introduced into Italy, where they make a coarse
bread from it ; and it is also employed in pastry and puddings : they also
use it for feeding horses and domestic fowls. It is the largest variety ,
growing to the height of six feet ; but it requires a warm climate, and
will not ripen in this country. A yellow variety, called Golden Millet, is
sold in the grocers’ shops, for making puddings, and is very delicate and
wholesome.

ITALIAN

MILLET.

TO MAKE A PECK OF GOOD BREAD.

1719. Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of potatoes, 6 pints of cold water, £ pint
of good yeast, a peck of flour, 2 oz. of salt.

Mode. — Peel and boil the potatoes ; beat them to a cream while
warm ; then add 1 pint of cold water, strain through a colander, and
add to it i pint of good yeast, which should have been put in water

BREAD, BISC0ITS, AND CAKES.

841

oyer-night, to take off its bitterness. Stir all well together with a
wooden spoon, and pour the mixture into the centre of the flour ; mix
it to the substance of cream, cover it over closely, and let
it remain near the fire for an hour ; then add the 5 pints of
water, milk- warm, with 2 oz. of salt ; pour this iu, and mix
the whole to a nice light dough. Let it remain for about
2 hours ; then make it into 7 loaves, and bake for about
If hour in a good oven. When baked, the bread should
weigh nearly 20 lbs.

Time. — About If hour.

The Red Vakieties oe Wheat are generally hardier and more easily
grown than the white sorts, and, although of less value to the miller, they
are fully more profitable to the grower, in consequence of the better crops
which they produce. Another advantage the red wheats possess is their
comparative immunity from the attacks of mildew and fly. The best English
wheat comes from the counties of Kent and Essex ; the qualities under these
heads always bearing a higher price than others, as will be seen by the pe-
riodical lists in the journals.

RICE BREAD.

1720. Ingredients. — To every lb. of rice allow 4 lbs. of wheat
flour, nearly 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, \ oz. of salt.

Mode. — Toil the rice in water until it is quite tender ; pour off the
water, and put the rice, before it is cold, to the flour. Mix these well
together with the yeast, salt, and sufficient warm water to make the
who^ into a smooth dough ; let it rise by the side of the fire, then
form it into loaves, and bake them from If 'to 2 hours, according to
their size. If the rice is foiled in milk instead of water, it makes
very delicious bread or cakes. When boiled in this manner, it may be
mixed with the flour without straining the liquid from it.

Time. — If to 2 hours;

IHDIAN-CORN-ELOUR BREAD.

1721. Ingredients. — To 4 lbs. of flour allow 2 lbs. of Indian-corn
flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 3 pints of warm water, j oz. of salt.

Mode. — Mix the two flours well together, with the salt ; make a
hole in the centre, and stir the yeast up well with f pint of the warm
water ; put this into the middle of the flour, and mix enough of it
with the yeast to make a thin batter ; throw a little flour over the
surface of this batter, cover the whole with a thick cloth, and set it
to rise iu a warm place. When the batter has nicely risen, work the
whole to a nice smooth dough, adding the water as required ; knead
it well, and mould the dough into loaves ; let them rise for nearly

S12

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

5 hour, then put them into a well-heated oven. If made into 2 loaves,
they will require from 14 to 2 hours’ baking.

Time. — to 2 hours.

Maize. — Next to wheat and rice, maize is the grain most used in the nourishment
of mas. In Asia, Africa, and America, it is the principal daily food of a large
portion of the population, espe-
cially of the colonists. In some
of the provinces of France, too, it
is consumed in large quantities.

There are eight varieties of the
maize ; the most productive is the
maize of Cusco. The flour of maize
is yellow, and it contains an oily
matter, which, when fresh, gives it
an agreeable flavour and odour ;
but the action of the air on it soon
develops rancidity. If carried any
distance, it should be stored a ay
in air-tight vessels. An excellent
soup is prepared with meat aud
maize-flour. The inhabitants of
some countries, where wheat is
scarce, make, with maize and
water, or milk and salt, a kind of
biscuit, which is pleasant in taste,
but indigestible. Some of the prepa-
rations of maize-flour are very good,
and, when partaken in moderation,

maize plant. suitable food for almost everybody. eaji oe maize.

SODA BREAD.

1722. Ingredients. — To every 2 lbs. of flour allow 1 teaspoonful
of tartaric acid, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of car-
bonate of soda, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of cold milk.

Mode. — Let the tartaric acid and salt be reduced to the
finest possible powder ; then mix them well with the flour.
Dissolve the soda in the milk, and pour it several times
from one basin to another, before adding it to the flour.
Work the whole quickly into a light dough, divide it into
2 loaves, and put them into a well-heated oven immedi-
ately, and bake for an hour. Sour milk or buttermilk may
be used, but then a little less acid will be needed.

Time. — 1 hour.

Polish and Pomekanian Wheat are accounted by authorities most
excellent. Large raft-like barges convey this grain down the rivers,
from the interior of the country to the seaports. This corn is described
polish as being white, hard, and thin-skinned ; and it yields a largo quantity of
wheat. flour, having a small proportion of broil.

EXCELLENT ROLLS.

1723. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow 1 oz. of lulter,
5 pint of milk, 1 large teaspoonful of- yeast, a little salt.

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

843

Mode. — Warm the butter in the milk, add to it the yeast and salt,
and mix these ingredients well together. Put the hour into a pan,
stir in the above ingredients, and let
the dough rise, covered in a warm
place. Knead it well, make it into
rolls, let them rise again for a few
minutes, and bake in a quick oven.

Richer rolls may be made by adding 1 or 2 eggs and a larger pro-
portion of butter, and their appearance improved by brushing the
tops over with yolk of egg or a little milk.

Time.— 1 lb. of hour, divided into 6 rolls, from 15 to 20 minutes.

HOT ROLLS.

1724. This dish, although very unwholesome and indigestible, is
nevertheless a great favourite, and eaten by many persons. As soon
as the rolls come from the baker’s, they should be put into the oven,
which, in the early part of the morning, is sure not to be very hot ;
and the rolls must not be buttered until wanted. When they are
quite hot, divide them lengthwise into three ; put some thin hakes
of good butter between the slices, press the rolls together, and put
them in the oven for a minute or two, but not longer, or the butter
would oil ; take them out of the oven, spread the butter equally over,
divide the rolls in half, and put them on to a very hot clean dish, and
send them instantly to table.

TO MAKE DRY TOAST.

1725. To make dry toast properly, a great deal of attention is re-
quired; much more, indeed, than people generally suppose. Never
use new bread for making any kind of toast, as it eats heavy, and,
besides, is very extravagant. Procure a loaf of household bread
about two days old; cut off as many slices as may be required, not
quite \ inch in thickness ; trim off the crusts and ragged edges, put
the bread on a toasting-fork, and hold it before a very clear hre.
Move it backwards and forwards until the bread is nicely coloured ;
then turn it and toast the other side, and do not place it so near the
fire that it blackens. Dry toast should be more gradually made
than buttered toast, as its great beauty consists in its crispness, and
this cannot be attained unless the process is slow and the bread is
allowed gradually to colour. It should never be made long before
it is wanted, as it soon becomes tough, unless placed on the fender in
front of the fire. As soon as each piece is ready, it should be put
into a rack, or stood Upon its edges, and sent quickly to table.

844

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

TO MAKE HOT BUTTERED TOAST.

1726. A loaf of household bread about two days old answers for
making toast better than cottage bread, the latter not being a good
shape, and too crusty for the purpose. Cut as many nice even slices
as may be required, rather more than \ inch in thickness, and toast
them before a very bright fire, without allowing the bread to blacken,
which spoils the appearance and flavour of all toast. When of a nice
colour on both sides, put it on a hot plate ; divide some good butter
into small pieces, place them on the toast, set this before the fire, and
when the butter is j ust beginning to melt, spread it lightly over the toast.
Trim off the crust and ragged edges, divide each round into 4 pieces,
and send the toast quickly to table. Some persons cut the slices of toast
across from corner to corner, so making the pieces of a three-cornered
shape. Soyer recommends that each slice should be cut into pieces
as soon as it is buttered, and when all arc ready, that they should be
piled lightly on the dish they are intended to be served on. He says
that by cutting through 4 or 5 slices at a time, all the butter is squeezed
out of the upper ones, while the bottom one is swimming in fat liquid.
It is highly essential to use good butter for making this dish.

MUFEIHS.

1727. Ingredients. — To every quart of milk allow 1} oz. of German
yeast, a little salt ; flour.

Mode. — Warm the milk, add to it the yeast, and mix these well
together ; put them into a pan, and stir in sufficient flour to make
the whole into a dough of rather a soft con-
sistence ; cover it over with a cloth, and place
it in a warm place to rise, and, when light and
nicely risen, divide the dough into pieces,
and round them to the proper shape with the
hands ; place them, in a layer of flour about two inches thick, on
wooden trays, and let them rise again ; when this is effected, they
each will exhibit a semi-globular shape. Then place them carefully
on a hot-plate or stove, and bake them until they are slightly browned,
turning them when they are done on one side. Muffins are not
easily made, and are more generally purchased than manufactured
at home. To toast them, divide the edge of the muffin all round, by
pulling it open, to the depth of about an inch, with the fingers. Put
it* on a toasting-fork, and hold it before a very clear fire until one
side is nicely browned, but not burnt; turn, and toast it on the other.
l)o not toast them too quickly, as, if this is done, the middle of the

BKEAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

845

muffin will not be warmed through. When done, divide them by
pulling them open ; butter them slightly on both sides, put them
together again, and cut them into halves : when sufficient are toasted
and buttered, pile them on a very hot dish, and send them very quickly
to table.

Time. — From 20 minutes to \ hour to bake them.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 muffin to each person.

CRUMPETS.

1728. These are made in the same manner as muffins; only, in
making the mixture, let it be more like batter than dough. Let it
rise for about | hour ; pour it into iron rings,
which should be ready on a hot-plate ; bake
them, and when one side appears done, turn
them quickly on the other. To toast them, have
ready a very bright clear fire ; put the crumpet
on a toasting-fork, and hold it before the fire, not too close, until it is
nicely brown on one side, but do not allow it to blacken. Turn it,
and brown the other side ; then spread it with good butter, cut it
in half, and, when all are done, pile them on a hot dish, and send
them quickly to table. Muffins and crumpets should always be served
on separate dishes, and both toasted and served as expeditiously as
possible.

Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes to bake them.

Sufficient. — Allow 2 crumpets to each person.

PLAIN BUNS.

1729. Ingredients. — To every 2 lbs. of flour allow 6 oz. of moist
sugar, 4 gill of yeast, 1 pint of milk, i- lb. of butter, warm milk.

Mode. — Put the flour into a basin, mix the sugar well with it, make
a hole in the centre, and stir in the yeast and milk (which should be
lukewarm), with enough of the flour to make it the thickness of cream.
Cover the basin over with a cloth, and let the sponge rise in a warm
place, which will be accomplished in about l j- hour. Melt the butter,
but do. not allow it to oil; stir it into the other ingredients, with
enough warm milk to make the whole into a soft dough ; then mould it
into buns about the size of an egg ; lay them in rows quite 3 inches
apart ; set them again in a warm place, until they have risen to double
their size ; then put them into a good brisk oven, and j ust before they
are done, wash them over with a little milk. From 15 to 20 minutes
will be required to bake them nicely. These buns may be varied by
adding a few currants, candied peel, or caraway seeds to the other

S46

MODERN HOUSEUOLD COOKERY.

ingredients ; and the above mixture answers for hot cross buns, by
putting in a little ground allspice; and by pressing a tin mould in the
form of a cross in the centre of the bun.

Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, Id. each.

Sufficient to make 18 buns.

TO MAKE GOOD PLAIN BUNS.

1730. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 6 oz. of good butter, \ lb. of
sugar, 1 egg, nearly | pint of milk, 2 small teaspoonfuls of baking-
powder, a few drops of essence of lemon.

Mode. — Warm the butter, without oiling it; beat it with a wooden
spoon ; stir the flour in gradually with the sugar, and mix these
ingredients well together. Make the milk lukewarm, beat up with
it the yolk of the egg and the essence of lemon, and stir these to the
flour, &e. Add the baking-powder, beat the dough well for about 10
minutes, divide it into 24 pieces, put them into buttered tins or cups,
and bake in a brisk oven from 20 to 30 minutes.

Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient to make 12 buns. Seasonable at any time.

LIGHT BUNS.

1731. Ingredients. — 4 teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 4 teaspoonful
of bicarbonate of soda, 1 lb. of flour,. 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of loaf sugar,
i lb. of currants or raisins, — when liked, a few caraway seeds, 4 pint
of cold new milk, 1 egg.

Mode. — Rub the tartaric acid, soda, and flour all together through a
hair sieve ; work the butter into the flour ; add the sugar, currants, and

caraway, seeds, when the flavour of the
latter is liked. Mix all these ingredients
well together ; make a hole in the middle
of the flour, and pour in the milk, mixed
wfth the egg, which should be well beaten ;
mix quickly, and set the dough, with a fork, on baking-tins, and bake
the buns for about 20 minutes. This mixture makes a very good cake,
and if put into a tin, should be baked 14 hour. The same quantity of
flour, soda, and tartaric acid, with 4 pint of milk and a little salt, will
make either bread or teacakes, if wanted quickly.

Time. — 20 minutes for the buns ; if made into a cake, 14 hour.

Sufficient to make about 12 buns.

BVNS.

bread, biscuits, and cakes.

817

VICTORIA BUNS.

1732. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 egg, l* oz. of
ground rioe, 2 oz. of butter, 1§ oz. of currants, a few thin slices of
candied peel ; flour.

Mode. — Whisk the egg, stir in the sugar, and beat these ingredients
well together ; beat the butter to a cream, stir in the ground rice,
currants, and candied peel, and as much flour as will make it of such
a consistency that it may be rolled into 7 or 8 balls. Put these on to
a buttered tin, and bake them from f to 3 hour. They should be put
into the oven immediately, or they will become heavy ; and the oven
should be tolerably brisk.

Time. — § to § hour. Average cost, 6d.

Sufficient to make 7 or 8 buns. Seasonable at any time.

ITALIAN RUSKS.

1733. A stale Savoy or lemon cake may be converted into very good

rusks in the following manner. Cut the cake into
slices, divide each slice in two ; put them on a baking-
sheet, in a slow oven, and when they are of a nice
brown and quite hard, they are done. They should be
kept iu a closed tin canister in a dry place, to preserve
their crispness.

Panthcled Millet. — This is the smallest-seeded of the corn-
plants, being a true grass ; but the number of the seeds in each ear
makes up for their size. It grows in sandy soils that will not do for
the cultivation of many other kinds of grain, and forms the chief
sustenance in the arid districts of Arabia, Syi’ia, Nubia, and parts
of India. It is not cultivated in England, being principally coulined
to the East. The nations who make use of it grind it, in the primi-
tive manner, between two stones, and make it into a diet whieh
cannot be properly called bread, but rather a kind of soft thin cake
half-baked. When we take into account that the Arabians are fond
of lizards and locusts as articles of food, their cuisine, altogether, is
scarcely a tempting one.

VANNICLBD

MILLET.

TO MAKE RUSKS.

(Suffolk Recipe.)

1734., Ingredients.— To every lb. of flour allow 2 oz. of butter,
3 pint of milk, 2 oz. of loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of yeast.

Mode. — Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and keep shaking
it round until the latter is melted. Put the flour into a basin with
the' sugar, mix these well together, and beat the
eggs. Stir them with the yeast to the milk
and butter, and with this liquid work the flour
into a smooth dough. Cover a cloth over the

848

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

basin, and leave the dough to rise by the side of the fire; then
knead it, and divide it into 12 pieces ; place them in a brisk oven, and
bake for about 20 minutes. Take the rusks out, break them in half,
and then set them in the oven to get crisp on the other side. When
cold, they should be put into tin canisters to keep them dry ; and, if
intended for the cheese course, the sifted sugar should be omitted.

Time— 20 minutes to bake the rusks ; 5 minutes to render them
crisp after being divided.

Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient to make 2 dozen rusks. Seasonable at any time.

ALMOND ICING FOB CAKES.

1735- Ingredients. — To every lb. of finely-pounded loaf sugar
allow 1 lb. of sweet almonds, the whites of 4 eggs, a little rose-
water.

Mode. — Blanch the almonds, and pound them (a few at a time) in
a mortar to a paste, adding a little rose-water to facilitate the operation,
Whisk the whites of the eggs to a strong froth ; mix them with the
pounded almonds, stir in the sugar, and beat altogether. When the
cake is sufficiently baked, lay on the almond icing, and put it into the
oven to dry. Before laying this preparation on the cake, great care
must be taken that it is nice and smooth, which is easily accomplished
by well beating the mixture.

SUGAR ICING FOB CAKES.

1736. Ingredients. — To every lb. of loaf sugar allow the whites of
4 eggs, 1 oz. of fine starch.

Mode. — Beat the eggs to a strong froth, and gradually sift in the
sugar, which should be reduced to the finest possible powder, and
gradually add the starch, also finely powdered. Beat the mixture
well until the sugar is smooth ; then with a spoon or broad knife lay
the icing equally over the cakes. These should then be placed in a
very cool oven, and the icing allowed to dry and harden, but not
to colour. The icing may be coloured with strawberry or currant-
juice, or with prepared cochineal. If it be put on the cakes as soon
as they are withdrawn from the oven, it will become firm and hard by
the time the cakes are cold. On very rich cakes, such as wedding,
christening cakes, &o., a layer of almond icing, No. 1735, is usually
spread over the top, and over that the white icing as described. All
iced cakes should be kept in a very dry place.

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

810

BISCUIT POWDER, generally used for Infants’ Pood1.

1737. This powder may be purchased in tin canisters, and may also
he prepared at home. Dry the biscuits well in a slow oven ; roll them
and grind them with a rolling-pin on a clean board, until they are
reduced to powder ; sift it through a close hair sieve, and it is fit for
use. It should be kept in well-covered tins, and in a dry place.

ARROWROOT BISCUITS OR DROPS.

1738. Ingredients.— i lb. of butter, 6 eggs, ! lb. of flour, 6 oz. of
arrowroot, i lb. of pounded loaf sugar.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream ; whisk the eggs to a strong froth,
add them to the butter, stir in the flour a little at a time, and beat
the mixture well. Break down all the lumps from the arrowroot,
and add that with the sugar to the other ingredients. Mix all well
together, drop the dough on a buttered tin, in pieces the size of a
shilling, and bake the biscuits about ! hour in a slow oven.

Time. — I hour. Average cost, 2s. 6 d.

Sufficient to make from 3 to 4 dozen biscuits.

Seasot}able at any time.

NICE BREAKFAST CAKES.

1739. Ingredients. — lib., of flour, -} teaspoonful of tartaric acid,
5 teaspoonful of salt, i teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, Is break-
fast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. of sifted loaf sugar, 2 eggs.

Mode. — These cakes are made in the same manner as the soda bread
No. 1722, with the addition of eggs and sugar. Mix the flour, tar-
taric acid, and salt well together, taking care that the two latter
ingredients are reduced to the finest powder, and stir in the sifted
sugar, which should also be very fine. Dissolve the soda in the milk,
add the eggs, which should be well whisked, and with this liquid
work the flour, &c. into a light dough. Divide it into small cakes,
put them into the oven immediately, and bake for about 20 minutes.

Time. — 20 minutes.

COCOA-NUT BISCUITS OR CAKES.

1740* Ingredients.— 10 oz. of sifted sugar, 3 eggs, G oz. of grated
cocoa-nut.

Mode. — Whisk the eggs until they are very light ; add the sugar
gradually ; then stir in the cocoa-nut. lloll a tablespoonful of the
paste at a time in your hands in the form of a pyramid ; place the

3 1

850

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

pyramids on paper, put the paper on tins, and bake the biscuits in
rather a cool oven until they are just coloured a light brown.

Time. About j hour. Seasonable at any time.

CRISP BISCUITS.

174'. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of flour, the yolk of 1 egg, milk.

Mode. — Mix the flour and the yolk of the egg with sufficient milk
to make the whole into a very stiff paste ; beat it well, and knead it
until it is perfectly smooth. Roll the paste out very thin ; with a
round cutter shape it into small biscuits, and bake them a nice .brown
in a slow oven from 12 to IS minutes.

Time. — 12 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 4 d.

Seasonable at any time.

DESSERT BISCUITS, which, may be flavoured with Ground
Ginger, Cihnamon, &c. &e.

1742. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, £ lb. of butter, l lb. of sifted
sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs, flavouring to taste.

Mode. — Put the butter into a basin ; warm it, but do not allow it to
oil ; then with the hand beat it to a cream. Add the flour by degrees,
then the sugar and flavouring, and moisten the whole with the yolks
of the eggs, which should previously be well beaten. When all the
ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, drop the mixture from a
spoon on to a buttered paper, leaving a distance between each cake,
as they spread as soon as they begin to get warm. Bake in rather a '
slow oven from 12 to 18 minutes, and do not let the biscuits acquire
too much colour. In making the above quantity, half may be fla-
voured with ground ginger and the other half with essence of lemon
or currants, to make a variety. With whatever the preparation is
flavoured, so are the biscuits called ; and an endless variety may he
made in this manner.

Time. — 12 to 18 minutes, or rather longer, in a very slow oven.

Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient to make from 3 to 4 dozen cakes.

Seasonable at any time.

LEMON BISCUITS.

1743. Ingredients. — 1| lb. of flour, f lb. of loaf sugar, 6 oz. of fresh
butter, 4 eggs, 1 oz. of lemon-peel, 2 dessertspoonfuls of lemon-juice.

Mode.— Rub the flour into the butter ; stir in the pounded sugar
and very finely-minced lemon-peel, and when these ingredients are
thoroughly mixed, add the eggs, which should be previously well

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

851

whisked, and the lemon -juice. Beat the mixture well for a minute or
two, then drop it from a spoon on to a buttered tin, about 2 inches
apart, as the cakes will spread when they get warm ; place the tin in
the oven, and bake the cakes of a pale brown from 15 to 20 minutes.

Time— 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, Is. 6 cl.

Seasonable at any time.

MACAROONS.

1744. Ingredients. — £ lb. of sweet almonds, £ lb. of sifted loaf
sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, wafer-paper.

Mode. — Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them well
with a little orange-flower water or plain water ; then add to them the
sifted sugar and the whites of the eggs, which
should.be beaten to a stiff froth, and mix all the
ingredients well together. When the paste looks
soft, drop it at equal distances from a biscuit-

, „ . MACAROONS.

syringe on to sheets of wafer-paper ; put a strip
of almond on the top of each ; strew some sugar over, and bake the
macaroons in rather a slow oven, of a light brown colour. When hard
and set, they are done, and must not be allowed to get very brown, as
that would spoil their appearance. If the cakes, when baked, appear
heavy, add a little more white of egg, but let this always be well
whisked before it is added to the other ingredients. We have given
a recipe for making these cakes, but we think it almost or quite as
economical to purchase such articles as these at a good confectioner’s.

Time.— From 15 to 20 minutes, in a slow oven..

Average cost, Is. 8 d. per lb.

RATAFIAS.

1745. Ingredients. — § lb. of sweet almonds, 5 lb. of bitter ones,
£ lb. of sifted loaf sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.

Mode. — Blanch, skin, and dry the almonds, and pound them in a
mortar with the white of an egg ; stir in the sugar, and gradually
add the remaining whites of eggs, taking care
that they are very thoroughly whisked. Drop
the mixture through a small biscuit-syringe on
to cartridge paper, and bake the cakes from 10
to 12 minutes in rather a quicker oven than for
macaroons. A very small quantity should be dropped on the paper
to form one cake, as, when baked, the ratafias should be about the
size of a large(button.

Time. — 10 to 12 minutes. Average cost, Is. 8 d. per lb.

3 1 2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

BICE EISCUITS OR CAKES.

1746. Increments.—1 To every i lb. of rice-flour allow .j lb. of !
pounded lump sugar, £ lb. of butter, 2 eggs.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream, stir in the rice- flour and pounded
sugar, and moisten the whole with the eggs, which should be previously
well beaten. Roll out the paste, shape it with a round paste-cutter into
small cakes, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in a very slow oven.

Time. — 12 to 18 minutes. Average cost, 9 d.

Sufficient to make about 18 cakes. Seasonable at any time.

Ground Hice, or rice-flour, is used for making several kinds of cakes, also for thick-
ening soups, and for mixing with wheaten flour in producing Manna Kroup. The

Americans make rice-bread, and prepare the flour for it in the following manner :

When the rice is thoroughly cleansed, the water is drawn off, and the rice, while damp,
bruised iu a mortar : it is then dried, and passed through a hair sieve.

ROCK BISCUITS.

1747. Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 1 lb. of sifted sugar, j lb. of flour, a
few currants.

Mode. — Break the eggs into a basin, beat them well until very light,
add the pounded sugar, and when this is well mixed with the eggs,
dredge in the flour gradually, and add the currants. Mix all well
together, and put the dough, with a fork, on the tins, making it look
as rough as possible. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven from 20
minutes to 4 hour ; when they are done, allow them to get cool, and
store them away in a tin canister, in a dry place.

Time. — 20 minutes to i hour. Average cost , Is. 2 d.

Seasonable at anytime.

SAVOY BISCUITS OR CAKES.

1748. Ingredients.— 4 eggs, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, the rind of 1
lemon, 6 oz. of flour.

Mode. — Break the eggs into a basin, separating the whites from the
yolks ; beat the yolks well, mix with them the pounded sugar and
grated lemon-rind, and beat these ingredients together for 1 hour.
Then dredge in the flour gradually, and when the whites of the eggs
have been whisked to a solid froth, stir them to the flour, &c. ; beat the
mixture well for another 5 minutes, then draw it along in strips upon
thick cartridge paper to the proper size of the biscuit, and bake them
in rather a hot oven ; but let them be carefully watched, as they are
soon done, and a few seconds over the proper time will scorch and spoil
them. These biscuits, or ladies’-fingers, as they are called, are used
for making Charlotte russes, and for a variety of fancy sweet dishes.

Time— 5 to 8 minutes, in a quick oven.

Average cost, Is. 8c/. per lb., or id. each.

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

S53

SEED BISCUITS.

1749. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, * lb. of sifted sugar, J lb. of
butter, i oz. of caraway seeds, 3 eggs.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream ; stir in the flour, sugar, and
caraway seeds ; and when these ingredients are. well mixed, add the
eggs, which should be well whisked. Boll out the paste, with a round
cutter shape out the biscuits, and bake them in a moderate oven from
10 to 15 minutes. The tops of the biscuits may be brushed over with
a little milk or the white of an egg, and then a little sugar strewn over.
Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient to make 3 dozen biscuits. Seasonable at any time.

SIMPLE HARD BISCUITS.

1750. Ingredients. — To every lb. of flour allow 2 oz. of butter,
about i pint of skimmed milk.

Mode. — ~W arm the, butter in the milk until the former is dissolved,
and then mix it with the flour into a very stiff paste ; beat it with a
rolling-pin until the dough looks perfectly smooth. Boll it out thin ;
cut it with the top of a glass into round biscuits ; prick the m well,
and bake them from 6 to 10 minutes. The above is the proportion
of milk which we think would convert the flour into a stiff paste ;
but should it be found too much, an extra spoonful or two of flour
must be put in. These biscuits are very nice for the cheese course.

Time. — 6 to 10 minutes.

Seasonable at anytime.

SODA BISCUITS.

1751. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of flour, i lb. of pounded loaf sugar, \ lb.
of fresh butter, 2 eggs, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.

Mode. — Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin ;
rub in the butter, add the sugar, and mix these ingredients well toge-
ther. Whisk the eggs, stir them into the mixture, and beat it well,
until everything is well incorporated. Quickly stir in the so(la, roll
the paste out until it is about h inch thick, cut it into small round
cakes with a tin cutter, and bake them from 12 to 18 minutes in
rather a brisk oven. After the soda is added, great expedition is
necessary in rolling and cutting out the paste, and in putting the
biscuits immediately into the oven, or they will be heavy.

Time. — 12 to 18 minutes. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient to make about 3 dozen cakes. Seasonable at any time.

854

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

ALMOND CAKE.

1752. Ingredients. — % lb. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of bitter almonds,
6 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar, 5 tablespoonfuls of fine flour,
the grated rind of 1 lemon, 3 oz. of butter.

Mode.— Blanch and pound the almonds to a paste ; separate the
•whites from the yolks of the eggs ; beat the latter, and add them to
the almonds. Stir in the sugar, flour, and lemon-rind ; add the
butter, which should be beaten to a cream ; and when all these
ingredients are well mixed, put in the whites of the eggs, which
should be whisked to a stiff froth. Butter a cake-mould, put in the
mixture, and bake in a good oven from 1 j to if hour. ,

Time. — If to if hour. Average cost, Is.

Seasonable at any time.

RICH BRIDE OR CHRISTENING CAKE.

1753. Ingredients.— 5 lbs. of the finest flour, 3 lbs. of fresh butter,
5 lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. of sifted loaf sugar, 2 nutmegs, f oz. of mace,
half f oz. of cloves, 16 eggs, 1 lb. of sweet almonds, f lb. of candied
citron, i lb. each of candied orange and lemon peel, 1 gill of wine,
1 gill of brandy.

Mode. — Let the flour be as fine as possible, and well dried and sifted ;
the currants washed, picked, and dried before the fire ; the sugar well
pounded and sifted ; the nutmegs grated, the spices pounded ; the
eggs thoroughly whisked, whites and yolks separately ; the almonds
pounded with a litte orange-flower water, and the candied peel cut
in neat slices. When all these ingredients are prepared, mix them
in the following manner. Begin working the butter with the hand
till it becomesof a cream-like consistency; stir in the sugar, and when
the whites of the eggs are whisked to a solid froth, mix them with
the butter and sugar ; next, Well beat up the yolks for 10 minutes,
and, adding them to the flour, nutmegs, mace, and cloves, continue
beating the whole' together for | hour or longer, till wanted for the oven.
Then mix in lightly the currants, almonds, and candied peel with
the wine and brandy ; and having lined a hoop with buttered paper,
fill it with the mixture, and bake the cake in a tolerably quick oven,
taking care, however, not to burn it : to prevent this, the top of it may
be covered with a sheet of paper. To ascertain whether the cake is done,
plunge a clean knife into the middle of it, withdraw it directly, and
if the blade is not sticky, and looks bright, the cake is sufficiently
baked. These cakes are usually spread with a thick layer of almond
icing, and over that another layer of sugar icing, and afterwards

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

855

ornamented. In baking a large cake like this, great attention must
be paid to the heat of the oven ; it should not be too fierce, but have
a good soaking heat.

Time.— 5 to 6 hours. Average cost, 2s. per lb.

CHRISTMAS CAKE.

1754. Ingredients. — 5 teacupfuls of flour, 1 teacupful of melted
butter, 1 teacupful of cream, 1 teacupful of treacle, 1 teacupful of
moist sugar, 2 eggs, i oz. of powdered ginger, i lb. of raisins, 1
teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.

Mode. — Make the butter sufficiently warm to melt it, but do not
allow it to oil ; put the flour into a basin ; add to it the sugar, ginger,
and raisins, which should be stoned and cut into small pieces. When
these dry ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir in the butter, cream,
treacle, and well- whisked eggs, and beat the mixture for a few minutes.
Dissolve the soda in the vinegar, add it to the dough, and be particular
that these latter ingredients are well incorporated with the others ;
put the cake into a buttered mould or tin, place it in a moderate oven
immediately, and bake it from if to 2\ hours.

Time „ — If to 2f hours. Average cost, Is. Cd.

COMMON CAKE, suitable for sending to Children at School.

1755- Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, 4 oz. of butter or clarified
dripping, i oz. of caraway seeds, f oz. of allspice, -J lb. of pounded
sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast.

Mode. — Rub the butter lightly into the flour ; add all the dry ingre-
dients, and mix these well together. Make the milk warm, but not
hot ; stir in the yeast, and with this liquid make the whole into a light
dough ; knead it well, and line the cake-tins with strips of buttered
paper : this paper should be about 6 inches higher than the top of the
tin. Put in the dough ; stand it in a warm place to rise for more than
an hour ; then bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. If this quantity
be divided in two, they will take from 1§ to 2 hours’ baking.

Time. — if to 2\ hours. Average cost, Is. 9 d.

Sufficient to make 2 moderate-sized cakes.

ECONOMICAL CAKE.

1756. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of flour, f lb. of sugar, f lb. of butter or
lard, i lb. of currants, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, the whites of
4 egg 8, i pint of milk.

853

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mdde. — In making many sweet dishes, the whites of eggs are not
required, and if well beaten and added to the above ingredients, make
an excellent cake, with or without currants. Beat
the butter to a cream , well whisk the whites of the
eggs, and stir all the ingredients together but the
soda, which must not be added until all is well
mixed, and the cake is ready to be put into the oven.
When the mixture has been well beaten, stir in
the soda, put the cake into a buttered mould, and bake it in a mode-
rate oven for 1-1 hour.

Time. — 1} hour. Average cost, Is. 3d.

A NICE USEFUL CAKE.

1757. Ingredients. — |flb. of butter, 6 oz. of currants, i lb. of sugar,
1 lb. of dried dour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 3 eggs, 1 teacup-
ful of milk, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 1 oz. of candied peel.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream ; wash, pick, and dry the cur-
rants ; whisk the eggs ; blanch and chop the almonds, and cut the
peel into neat slices. When all these are ready, mix the dry ingredients
together ; then add the butter, milk, and eggs, and beat the mixture
well for a few minutes. Put the cake into a buttered mould or tin,
and bake it for rather more than 1& hour. The currants and candied
peel may be omitted, and a little lemon or almond flavouring substi-
tuted for them : made in this manner, the cake will be found very
good.

Time. — Rather more than li hour. Average cost, Is. 9 d.

HONEY CAKE.

1758. Ingredients.— 5 breakfast-cupful of sugar, 1 breakfast-cup-
ful of rich sour cream, 2 breakfast-cupfuls of flour, i teaspoonful of
carbonate of soda, honey to taste.

Mode. — Mix the sugar and cream together; dredge in the flour,
with as much honey as will flavour the mixture nicely ; stir it well,
that all the ingredients may be thoroughly mixed ; add the carbonate
of soda, and beat the cake well for another 5 minutes ; put it into a
buttered tin, bake it from i to f hour, and let it be eaten warm.

Tune.—-} to § hour. Average cost, 8 d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

BICH SWEETMEAT GINGERBREAD NUTS.

1759. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of treacle, j lb. of elaritied butter, I lb.
of coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. of ground ginger, 1 oz. of candied orange-

BIIEAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

857

peel, 1 oz. of candied angelica, 5 oz. of candied lemon-peel, | oz. of
coriander seeds, A oz. of caraway seeds, 1 egg ; flour.

Mode. — Put the treacle into a basin, and pour over it the butter,
melted so as not to oil, the sugar, and ginger. Stir these ingredients
well together, and whilst mixing, add the candied peel, which should
he cut into very small pieces, but not bruised, and the caraway
and coriander seeds, which should he pounded. Having mixed all
thoroughly together, break in an egg, and work the whole up with' as
much fine flour as may he necessary to form a paste. Make this into
nuts of any size, put them on a tin plate, and bake in a slow oven
from k to A hour.

Time. — j to -} hour. Average cost, from Is. to Is. id. per lb.

Seasonable at any time.

THICK GINGERBREAD.

1760. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of treacle, 5 lb. of butter, £ lb. of coarse
brown sugar, If lb. of flour, 1 oz. of ginger, | oz. of ground allspice,
1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, i pint of warm milk, 3 eggs.

Mode. — Put the flour into a basin, with the sugar, ginger, and
allspice ; mix these together ; warm the butter, and add it, with the
treacle, to the other ingredients. Stir
well ; make the milk just warm, dissolve
the carbonate of soda in it, and mix the
whole into a nice smooth dough with the
eggs, which should be previously well
whisked ; pour the mixture into a buttered tin, and bake it from
f to 1 hour, or longer, should the gingerbread be very thick. Just before
it is done, brush the top over with the yolk of an egg beaten up with
a little milk, and put it back in the oven to finish baking.

Time. — f to 1 hour. Average cost, Is. per square.

Seasonable at any time.

GINGEEBEEAD.

SUSTDEELAND GINGERBREAD NUTS.

(An Excellent Recipe.)

1761, Ingredients. — If lb. treacle, 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1 lb. of
butter, 2if lbs. of flour, oz. of ground ginger, 1* oz. of allspice, 1A oz.
of coriander seeds.

Mode. Let the allspice, coriander seeds, and ginger be freshly
ground ; put them into a basin, with the flour and sugar, and mix
these ingredients well together ; warm the treacle and butter together ;
then with a spoon' work it into the flour, &c., until the whole forms a
nice smooth paste. Drop the mixture from the spoon on to a piece of

858

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

buttered paper, and bake in rather a slow oven from 20 minutes to
i hour. A little candied lemon-peel mixed with the above is an
improvement, and a great authority in culinary matters suggests the
addition of a little cayenne pepper in gingerbread. Whether it be
advisable to use this latter ingredient or not, we leave our readers to
decide.

Time. — 20 minutes to i hour. Average cost, Is. to Is. id. per lb.

Seasonable at any time.

WHITE GINGERBREAD.

1762. Ingredients— 1 lb. of flour, i lb. of butter, fib. of loaf sugar,
the rind of 1 lemon, 1 oz. of ground ginger, 1 nutmeg grated, \ tea-
spoonful of carbonate of soda, 1 gill of milk.

Mode. — Eub the butter into the flour ; add the sugar, which should
be finely pounded and sifted, and the minced lemon-rind, ginger, and
nutmeg. Mix these well together ; make the milk just warm, stir in
the soda, and work the whole into a nice smooth paste ; roll it out,
cut it into cakes, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes.

Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average cost, Is. 'id.

Seasonable at any time.

GOOD HOLIDAY CAKE.

1763. Ingredients. — lid. worth of Borwick’s German baking-
powder, 2 lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter, J lb. of lard, 1 lb. of currants,
i lb. of stoned and cut raisins, j lb. of mixed candied peel, j lb. of
moist sugar, 3 eggs, f pint of cold milk.

Mode. — Mix the baking-powder with the flour ; then rub in the
butter and lard ; have ready the currants, washed, picked, and dried
the raisins stoned and cut into small pieces (not chopped), and the peel
cut into neat slices. Add these with the sugar to the flour, &c., and mix
all the dry ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them
the milk, and with this liquid moisten the cake ; beat it up well, that
all may be very thoroughly mixed ; line a cake-tin with buttered
paper, put in the cake, and bake it from 2i to 2(| hours in a good oven.
To ascertain when it is done, plunge a clean knife into the middle of
it, and if, on withdrawing it, the knife looks clean, and not sticky, the
cake is done. To prevent its burning at the top, a piece of clean
paper may be put over whilst the cake is soaking, or being thoroughly
cooked in the middle. A steamer, such as is used for steaming pota-
toes, makes a very good cake-tin, if it be lined at the bottom and sides
with buttered paper.

Time. — 21 to 2f hours. Average cost, 2s. 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

859

LEMON CAKE.

1-64. Ingredients.— 10 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of orange-flower
water, 3 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 lemon, f lb. of flour.

J\iode. — Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs ; whisk the
former to a stiff froth ; add the orange-flower water, the sugar, grated
lemon-rind, and mis these ingredients well together.

Then beat the yolks of the eggs, and add them, with
the lemon -juice, to the whites, &c. ; dredge in the
flour gradually ; keep beating the mixture well ; put
t into a buttered mould, and bake the cake about an '
hour, or rather longer. The addition of a little butter,
beaten to a cream, we think, would improve this cake.

Time. — About 1 hour. Average cost, Is. 4 cl.

Seasonable at any time.

LUNCHEON CAKE.

1765. Ingredients. — { lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, i oz. of caraway
seeds, f ib. of currants, 6 oz. of moist sugar, 1 oz. of candied peel,
3 eggs, i pint of milk, 1 small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.

Mode. — Eub the butter into the flour until it is quite fine ; add the
caraway seeds, currants (which should be nicely washed, picked, and
dried), sugar, and candied peel cut into thin slices ; mix these well
together, and moisten with the eggs, which should be well whisked.
Boil the milk, and add to it, whilst boiling, the carbonate of soda,
which must be well stirred into it, and, with the milk, mix the other
ingredients. Butter a tin, pour the cake into it, and bake it in a
moderate oven from 4 to 1 hour.

Time. — 1 to 1-| hour. Average cost, Is. 8cZ.

Seasonable at any time.

Cabbonate op Soda.— Soda was called the mineral alkali, because it was originally
dug up out of the grouud in Africa and other countries : this state of carbonate of soda
is called natron. But carbonate of soda is likewise procured from the combustion of
marine plants, or such as grow on the sea-shore. Pure carbonate of soda is employed
for making effervescing draughts, with lemon-juice, citric acid, or tartaric acid. The chief
constituent of soda, the alkali, has been used in Prance from time immemorial in the
manufacture of soap and glass, two chemical productions which employ and keep in
circulation an immense amount of capital. A small pinch of carbonate of soda will give
an extraordinary lightness to pulf pastes ; and, introduced into the teapoy, will extract
the full strength of the tea. But its qualities have a powerful effect upon delicate con-
stitutions, and it is not to be used incautiously in any preparation.

A NICE PLAIN CAKE.

>7 66. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of flour, 1 teaspoonful of Berwick's
baking-powder, 3 lb. of good dripping, l teacupful of moist sugar,

860

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

3 eggs, 1 breakfast-cupful of milk, 1 oz. of caraway seeds, J lb. of
currants.

Mode. — Put the flour and baking-powder into a basin ; stir these
together ; then rub in the dripping, add the sugar, caraway seeds,
and currants ; whisk the eggs with the milk, and beat all together
very thoroughly until the ingredients are well mixed. Butter a tin,
put in the cake, and bake it from 1? to 2 hours. Let the dripping be
quite clean before using : to insure this, it is a good plan to clarify it.
Beef dripping is better than any other for cakes, &c., as mutton
dripping frequently has a very unpleasant flavour, which would be
imparted to the preparation.

Time. — lj to 2 hours. Average cost , Is.

Seasonable at any time.

A NICE PLAIN CAKE FOH CHILDREN.

1767. Ingredients. — 1 quartern of dough, f lb. of moist sugar, Jib.
of butter or good beef dripping, { pint of warm milk, s grated nutmeg
or | oz. of caraway seeds.

Mode. — If you are not in the habit of making bread at home, procure
the dough from the baker’s, and, as soon as it comes in, put it into a
basin near the fire ; cover the basin with a thick cloth, and let the dough
remain a little while to rise. In the mean time, beat the butter to a
cream, and make the milk warm ; and when the dough has risen, mix
with it thoroughly all the above ingredients, and knead the cake well
for a few minutes. Butter some cake-tins, half fill them, and stand
them in a warm place, to allow the dough to rise again. When the
tins are three parts full, put the cakes into a good oven, and bake
them from if to 2 hours. A few currants might be substituted for the
caraway seeds when the flavour of the latter is disliked.

Time. — if to 2 hours. Average cost , Is. 2d.

Seasonable at any time..

COMMON PLUM CAKE.

1768. Ingredients. — 3 lbs. of flour, 6 oz. of butter or good dripping,
6 oz. of moist sugar, 6 oz. of currants, J oz. of pounded allspice, 2 table-
spoenfuls of fresh yeast, 1 pint of new milk.

Mode. — Hub the butter into the flour ; add the sugar, currants, and
allspice ; warm the milk, stir to it the yeast, and mix the whole into a
dough ; knead it well, and put it into 6 buttered tins ; place them near
the fire for nearly an hour for the dough to rise, then bake the cakes
in a good oven from 1 to 1 J hour. To ascertain when ,they are done,

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

861

plunge a clean, knife, into the middle, and if on withdrawal it comes
out clean, the cakes are done.

Time.— 1 to lj hour. Average cost, Is. 8 cl.

Sufficient to make 6 small cakes.

A NICE PLUM CAKE.

1769. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, £ lb. of butter, lb. of sugar,
5 lb. of currants, 2 oz. of candied lemon-peel, pint of milk, 1 tea-
spoonful of ammonia or carbonate of soda.

Mode. — Put the flour into a basin with the sugar, currants, and
sliced candied peel ; beat the butter to a cream, and mix all these
ingredients together with the milk. Stir the ammonia into 2 table-
spoonfuls of milk ; add it to the dough, and beat the lyhole well, until
everything is thoroughly mixed. Put the dough into a buttered tin,
and bake the cake from I f to 2 hours.

Time. — 14 to 2 hours. Average cost, Is. 3 d.

Seasonable at any time.

POUND CAKE.

1770. Ingredients. — lib. of butter, lj lb. of flour, 1 lb. of pounded
loaf sugar, 1 lb. of currants, 9 eggs, 2 oz. of candied peel, i oz. of
citron, i oz. of sweet almonds ; when liked, a litttle pounded mace.

Mode. — Work the butter to a cream ; dredge in the flour ; add the
sugar, currants, candied peel, which should be cut into neat slices,
and the almonds, which should be blanched
and chopped, and mix all these well together ;
whisk the eggs, and let them be thoroughly
blended with the dry ingredients. Beat the
cake well for 20 minutes, and put it into a
round tin, lined at the bottom and sides with a strip of white buttered
paper. Bake it from l| to 2 hours, and let the oven be well heated
when the cake is first put in, as, if this is not the case, the currants
will all sink to the bottom of it. To make this preparation light, the
yolks and whites of the eggs should be beaten separately, and added
separately to the other ingredients. A glass of wine is sometimes
added to the mixture ; but this is scarcely necessary, as the cake will
be found quite rich enough without it.

Time. — li to 2 hours. Average cost, 3s. Gd.

Sufficient. — The above quantity divided in two will make two nice-
sized cakes.

Seasonable at any time.

POUND CAKE.

862

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOICERY.

A PA VINT CAKE.

177 Ingredients.— 4 lb. of flour, 4 lb. of ground rice, 4 lb. of
raisins stoned and cut into small pieces, \ lb. of currants, 4 lb. of
butter, 2 oz. of sweet almonds, 4 lb. of sifted loaf sugar, 4 nutmeg '
grated, 1 pint of milk, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.

Mode— Stone and cut the raisins into small pieces ; wash, pick, and j
dry the currants ; melt the butter to a cream, but without oiling it ;
blanch and chop the almonds, and grate the nutmeg. When all these i
ingredients are thus prepared, mix them well together ; make the milk
warm, stir in the soda, and with this liquid make the whole into a
.paste. Butter a mould, rather more than half fill it with the dough, •
and bake the cake in a moderate oven from 1 i to 2 hours, or less time
should it be made into 2 cakes.

Time. — 14 to 2 hours. Average cost, Is. Sd.

Seasonable at any time.

RICE CAKE.

1772. Ingredients.— 4 lb. of ground rice, 4 lb. of flour, 41b. of loaf
sugar, 9 eggs, 20 drops of essence of lemon, or the rind of 1 lemon,
i lb. of butter.

Mode. — Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs ; whisk them
both well, and add to the latter the butter beaten to a
cream. Stir in the flour, rice, and lemon (if the rind
is used, it must be very finely minced), and beat the
mixture well ; then add the whites of the eggs, beat
the cake again for some time, put it into a buttered
mould or tin, and bake it for nearly 14 hour. It may
be flavoured with essence of almonds, when this is pre-

CAEE-MOULD. r

f erred.

Time. — Nearly 14 hour. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

QUEEN-CAKES.

1773. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of flour, 4 lb. of butter, 4 lb. of pounded
loaf sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, 4 lb. of currants, 1 teaspoonful
of carbonate of soda, essence of lemon or almonds to taste.

Mode. — Work the butter to a cream ; dredge in the flour, add the
sugar and currants, and mix the ingredients well together. Whisk
the eggs, mix them with the cream and flavouring, and stir these to
the flour ; add the carbonate of soda, beat the paste well for 1 0 minutes,
put it into small buttered pans, and bake the cake from j to 4 hour.

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

863

Grated lemon-rind may be substituted for the lemon and almond
flavouring, which will make the cakes equally nice.

Time, j to .V hour. Average cost, Is. 9 c/.

Seasonable at any time.

SATJCER-CAKE FOE TEA.

1774. Ingredients. — \ lb. of flour, fib. of tons -les- mo is, f lb. of
pounded white sugar, 5 lb. of butter, 2 eggs, 1 oz, of candied orange or
lemon-peel.

Mode. — Mix the flour and tous-les-mois together ; add the sugar
the candied peel cut into thin slices, the butter beaten to a cream, *
and the eggs well whisked. Beat the mixture for 10 minutes, put it
into a buttered cake-tin or mould, or, if this is not obtainable, a soup-
plate answers the purpose, lined with a piece of buttered paper. Bake
the cake in a moderate oven from 1 to if hour, and when cold, put it
away in a covered canister. It will remain good some weeks, even if
it be cut into slices.

Time. — 1 to if hour. Average cost, Is.

Seasonable at any time.

COMMON SEED-CAKE.

1775* Ingredients.— 4 quartern of dough, f lb. of good dripping,
6 oz. of moist sugar, f oz. of caraway keeds, 1 egg.

Mode. — If the dofigh is sent in from the baker’s, put it in a basin
covered with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. Then with a
wooden spoon beat the dripping to a liquid ; add it, with the other
ingredients, to the dough, and beat it until everything is very tho-
roughly mixed. Put it into a buttered tin, and bake the cake for
rather rhoie than 2 hours.

Time.— Rather more than 2 hours. Average cost, 8 d.

Seasonable at any time.

A VEST GOOD SEED-CAKE.

1776. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of butter, 6 eggs, fib. of sifted;, sugar,
pounded mace and grated nutmeg to taste, 1 lb. of flour, f oz. of
caraway seeds, 1 wineglassful of brandy.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream ; dredge in the flour ; add the
sugar, mace, nutmeg, and caraway seeds, and mix these ingredients
well together. Whisk the eggs, stir to them the brandy, and beat

the cake again for 10 minutes. Put it into a tin lined with buttered

854 MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

paper, and bake it from l£ to 2 hours. This cake would be equally
nice made with currants, and omitting the caraway seeds.

Time. — li to 2 hours. Average cost, 2s. 6 d.

Seasonable at any time.

Bread-making in Spain.— The bread in the Bonth of Spain is delicious : it is white J
as snow, close as cake, and yet very light ; the flavour is most admirable, for the wheat
is good and pure, and the bread well kneaded. The way they make this bread is as i
follows : — From large round panniers iilled with wheat they take out a handful at a
time, sorting it most carefully and expeditiously, and throwing every defective grain 1
into another basket. This done, the wheat is ground between two circular stones, as it 1
was ground in Egypt 2,000 years ago (see No. 117), the requisite rotary motion being given
by a blindfolded mule, which paces round and round with untiring patience, a bell being
attached to his neck, which, as long as he is in movement, tinkles on ; and when it stops,
he is urged to his duty by the shout of “ Arre, mula,” from some one within hearing.
When ground, the wheat is sifted through three sieves, the last of these being so fine
that only the pure flour can pass through it : this is of a pale apricot-colour. The bread
is made in the evening. It is mixed with only sufficient water, with a little salt in it, to I
make it into dough : a very small quantity of leaven, or fermenting mixture, is added.
The Scripture says, “ A little leaven leaveneth the whole lump ; ” but in England, to avoid
the trouble of kneading, many put as much leaven or yeast in one hatch of household
bread as in Spain would last them a week for the six or eight donkey-loads of bread they
send every night from their oven. The dough made, it is put into sacks, and carried on
the donkeys’ backs to the oven in the centre of the village, so as to bake it immediately
it is kneaded. On arriving there, the dough is divided into portions weighing 3 lbs.
each. Two long narrow wooden tables on trestles are then placed down the room; and
now a curious sight may be seen. About twenty men (bakers) come in and range
themselves on one side ot the tables. A lump of dough is handed to the nearest, which
he commences kneading and knocking about with all has might for about 3 or 4 minutes,
and then passes it on to his neighbour, who does the same ; and so on successively until
all have kneaded it, when it becomes as soft as new putty, and ready for the oven. Of
course, as soon as the first baker has handed the first lump to his neighbour, another is
given to him, and so on till the whole quantity of dough is successively kneaded by them
all. The bakers’ wives and daughters shape the loaves for the oven, and some of them
are very small, and they are baked immediately. The ovens are very large, and not
heated by fires under them ; but a quantity of twigs of the herbs of sweet marjoram and
thyme, which cover the hills in great profusion, are put in the oven and ignited. They
heat the oven to any extent required ; and, as the bread gets baked, the oven gets
gradually colder ; so the bread is never burned. They knead the bread in Spain with
such force, that the palm of the hand and the second joints of the fingers of the bakers
are covered with corns ; and it so affects the chest, that they cannot work more than
two hours at a time.

SNOW-CAKE.

1777. Ingredients. — Jib- of tous-les-mois, J lb. of white pounded,
sugar, 5 lb. of fresh or washed salt butter, 1 egg, the juice of 1 lemon.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream ; then add the egg, previously
well beaten, and then the other ingredients ; if the mixture is not
light, add another egg, and beat for £ hour, until it turns white and
light. Line a fiat tin, with raised edges, with a sheet of buttered
paper ; pour in the calce, and put it into the oven. It must be rather
slow, and the cake not allowed to brown at all. If the oven is properly
heated, 1 to I5 hour will be found long enough to bake it. Let it cool
a few minutes, then with a clean sharp , knife cut it into small square
pieces, which should be gently removed to a large flat dish to cool
before putting away. This will keep for several weeks.

Time. — 1 to l£ hour. Average cost, Is. 3d.

Seasonable at any time.

» *

BIIEAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

865

SNOW-CAKE.

(.1 genuine Scotch Recipe.)

1778. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of arrowroot, lb. of pounded white
sugar, i lb. of butter, the whites of 6 eggs ; flavouring to taste, of
essence of almonds, or vanilla, or lemon.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream ; stir in the sugar and arrow-
root gradually, at the same time beating the mixture. "Whisk the
whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add them to the other ingredients,
and beat well for 20 minutes. Put in whichever of the above flavour-
ings may be preferred ; pour the cake into a buttered mould or tin,
and bake it in a moderate oven from 1 to li hour.

Time. — 1 to 1* hour.

Average cost, with the best Bermuda arrowroot, 4s. 6 d. ; with
St. Yincent ditto, 2s. 9 d.

Sufficient to make a moderate-sized cake. Seasonahle at any time.

SCRAP-CAKES.

1779. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of leaf, or the inside fat of a pig ; lilb.
of flour, j lb. of moist sugar, ^ lb. of currants, 1 oz. of candied lemon-
peel, ground allspice to taste.

Mode. — Cut the leaf, or flead, as it is sometimes called, into small
pieces ; put it into a large dish, which place in a quick oven ; be
careful that it does not burn, and in a short time it will be reduced
to oil, with the small pieces of leaf floating on the surface ; and it is
of these that the cakes should be made. Gather all the scraps
together, put them into a basin with the flour, and rub them well
together. Add the currants, sugar, candied peel, cut into thin slices,
and the ground allspice. When all these ingredients are well mixed,
moisten with sufficient cold water to make the whole into a nice paste;
roll it out thin, cut it into shapes, and bake the cakes in a quick oven
from 15 to 20 minutes. These are very economical and wholesome
cakes for children, and the lard, melted at home, produced from the
flead, is generally better than that you purchase. To prevent the
lard from burning, and to insure its being a good colour, it is better
to melt it in a jar placed in a saucepan of boiling water; by doing
it in this manner, there will be no chance of its discolouring.

Time. — 15 to 20 minutes.

Sufficient to “make 3 or 4 dozen cakes.

Seasonahle from September to March.

3 ic

8C6

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Wheat

is liable to several diseases, which affect the flour made from it, and render it
uuflt for good bread. The principal of these nrc the blight, mildew, and
smut, which are occasioned by microscopic fungi, which sow themselves and
grow upon the stems and ears, destroying the nutritive principles, and intro-
ducing matter of a deleterious kind. The farmer is at the utmost pains to
keep away these intruders. Wheat, as well as all kinds of corn, is also very
liable to be injured by being stacked before it is quite dry ; in which case it
will heat, and become musty in the ricks. In wet harvests it is sometimes
impossible to get it sufficiently dried, and a great deal of corn is thus often
spoiled. It is generally reckoned that the sweetest bread is made from wheat
threshed out before it is stacked; which shows the importance of studying the
best modes of preserving it.

The erudite are not agreed as to the aboriginal country of corn : some Bay
it is Egypt, others Tartary ; and the learned Ilailly, as well as the traveller
Pallas, affirms that it grows spontaneously in Siberia. Be that as it mav, the
Phocians brought it to Marseilles before the Romans had penetrated into
Gaul. The Gauls ate the corn cooked or bruised in a mortar : they did not
know, for a long time, how to make fermented bread.

SCOTCH SHORTBREAD.

1780. Ingredients.— 2 lbs. of flour, 1 lb. of butter, J, lb. of pounded
loaf sugar, ioz. of caraway seeds, 1 oz. of 6weet almonds, a few strips
of candied orange-peel.

Mode. — Beat the butter to a cream, gradually dredge in the flour,
and add the sugar, caraway seeds, and sweet almonds, which should

be blanched and cut into small pieces.
Work the paste until it is- quite smooth,
and divide it into six pieces. Put each
cake on a separate piece of paper, roll the
paste out square to the thickness of about
an inch, and pinch it upon all sides. Prick it well, and ornament
with one or two strips of candied orange-peel. Put the cakes into a
good oven, and bake them from 25 to 30 minutes.

Time.— 25 to 30 minutes. Average cost, for this quantity, 2s.

Sufficient to make 6 cakes. Seasonable at any time.

J^ote. Where the flavour of tbe caraway seeds is disliked, omit them, and

add rather a larger proportion of candied peel.

SHOnTDEEAD.

SODA-CAKE.

* 1781, Ingredients. — 5 lb. of butter, 1 lb. of flour, £ lb. of currants,

a lb. of moist sugar, 1 teacupful of milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of car-
bonate of soda.

Mode.— Rub the butter into the flour, add the currants and sugar,
and mix these ingredients well together. Whisk the eggs well, stir
them to the flour, &c., with the milk, in which the soda should be pre-
viously dissolved, and beat the whole up together with a wooden spoon
or beater. Divide the dough into two pieces, put them into buttered.

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

867

moulds or cake-tins, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly an hour.
The mixture must be extremely well beaten up, and not allowed to
stand after the soda is added to it, but must be placed in the oven,
immediately. Great care must also be taken that the cakes are quite
done through, which may be ascertained by thrusting a knife into the
middle of them : if the blade looks bright when withdrawn, they are
done. If the tops acquire too much colour before the inside is suffi-
ciently baked, cover them over with a piece of clean white paper, to
prevent them from burning.

Time. — 1 hour. Average cost, Is. Gd.

Sufficient to make 2 small cakes. Seasonable at any time.

SAVOY CAKE.

178a. Ingredients. — The weight of 4 eggs in pounded loaf sugar,
the weight of 7 in flour, a little grated lemon-rind, or essence of
almonds, or orange-flower water.

Mode. — Break the 7 eggs, putting the yolks into one basin and the
whites into another. Whisk the former, and mix with them the sugar,
the grated lemon-rind, or any other flavouring to taste ; beat them,
well together, and add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a froth.
Put in the flour by degrees, continuing to beat the mixture for \ hour,
butter a mould, pour in the cake, and bake it from 1.1 to 14 hour,
This is a very nice cake for dessert, and may be iced for a supper-
table, or cut into slices and spread with jam, which converts it into
sandwiches.

Time. — lj to li hour. Average cost, Is.

Sufficient for 1 cake. Seasonable at any time.

SPOE G-E-CAKE.

1783. Ingredients. — The weight of 8 eggs in pounded loaf sugar,
the weight of 5 in flour, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

Mode. — Put the eggs into one side of the scale, and take the weight
of 8 in pounded loaf sugar, and the weight of 5 in good dry flour.
Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs ;
beat the former, put them into a saucepan
with the sugar, and let them remain over
the fire until milk-warm , keeping them well
stirred. Then put them into a basin, add
the grated lemon-rind mixed with the brandy,
and stir these well together, dredging in the flour very gradually.

3 k 2

SPONGE-CAKE.

8G8

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Whisk the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, stir them to the
flour, &c., and beat the cake well for j hour. Put it into a buttered
mould strewn with a little fine sifted sugar, and bake
the cake in a quick oven for 1 J hour. Care must be
taken that it is put into the oven immediately, or it
will not be light. The flavouring of this cake may
be varied by adding a few drops of essence of almonds
instead of the grated lemon-rind.

Time. — H- hour. Average cost, Is! 3 d.

Sufficient for 1 cake. Seasonable at any time.

The Egyptian, or Mumjiy Wheat, is not grown to any great
extent, owing to its inferior quality ; but it is notable for its large
produce, and is often cultivated on allotment grounds and ou
small farms, where quantity rather than quality is desired. At
Wix, in Essex, the seed of this wheat has produced, without arti-
ficial assistance, four thousandfold ; some of the ears have had
eleven offshoots, and have contained, altogether, eleven grains in
Egyptian wheat, one ear.

1784- Ingredients. — J lb. of loaf sugar, not quite j pint of water,
5 eggs, 1 lemon, i lb. of flour, \ teaspoonful of carbonate of soda.

Mode. — Boil the sugar and water together until they form a thick
syrup ; let it cool a little, then pour it to the eggs, which should be
previously well whisked; and after the eggs and syrup are mixed
together, continue beating them for a few minutes. Grate the lemon-
rind, mix the carbonate of soda with the flour, and stir these lightly
to the other ingredients ; then add the lemon-juice, and, when the
whole is thoroughly mixed, pour it into a buttered mould, and bake
in rather a quick oven for rather more than 1 hour. The remains of
sponge or Savoy cakes answer very well for trifles, light puddings,
&c. ; and a very stale one (if not mouldy) makes an excellent
tipsy-cake.

Time.— Rather more than 1 hour. Average cost, 10 <7.

Sufficient to make 1 cake. Seasonable at any time.

TO MAKE SMALL SPONGE-CAKES.

1785. Ingredients. — The weight of 5 eggs in flour, the weight of S
in pounded loaf sugar ; flavouring to taste.

Mode.— Let the flour be perfectly dry, and the sugar well pounded
and sifted. Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, and heat
the latter up with the sugar ; then whisk the whites until they
become rather stiff, and mix them with the yolks, but do not stir
them more than is just necessary to mingle the ingredients well toge-

BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.

SG9

ther. Dredge in the flour by degrees, add the flavouring ; butter the tins
well, pour in the batter, sift a little sugar over the cakes, and bake
them in rather a quick oven, but do not allow them to take too much
colour, as they should be rather pale. Remove them from the tins
before they get cold, and turn them on their faces, where let them
remain until quite cold, when store them away in a closed tin canister
or wide-mouthed glass bottle.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes in a quick oven. Average cost, id. each.

Seasonable at any time.

TEA-CAKES.

1 786. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of flour, i teaspoonful of salt, £ lb. of
butter or lard, 1 egg, a piece of German yeast the size of a walnut,
warm milk.

Mode. — Put the flour (which should be perfectly dry) into a basin ;
mix with it the salt, and rub in the butter or lard ; then beat the egg
well, stir to it the yeast, and add these to the flour with as much warm
milk as will make the whole into a smooth paste, and knead it well.
Let it rise near the fire, and, when well risen, form it into cakes ;
place them on tins, let them rise again for a few minutes before
putting them into the oven, and bake from 5 to ^ hour in a moderate
oven. These are very nice with a few currants and a little sugar
added to the other ingredients : they should be put in after the butter
is rubbed in. These cakes should be buttered, and eaten hot as soon
as baked ; but, when stale, they are very nice split and toasted ; or, if
dipped in milk, or even water, and covered with a basin in the oven
till hot, they will be almost equal to new.

Time. — \ to i- hour. Average cost, 10c?.

Sufficient to make 8 tea-cakes. Seasonable at any time.

TO TOAST TEA-CAKES.

1787. Cut each tea-cake into three or four slices, according to its
thickness ; toast them on both sides before a nice clear fire, and as each
slice is done, spread it with butter on both
sides. When a cake is toasted, pile the
slices one on the top of the other, cut them
into quarters, put them on a very hot plate, tea-cakes.

and send the cakes immediately to table. As they are wanted,
send them in hot, one or two at a time, as, if allowed to stand, they
spoil, unless kept in a muflin-plate over a basin of boiling water.

870

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

A NICE YEAST-CAKE.

1788. Ingredients. — 1£ lb. of flour, £ lb. of buttc-r, i pint of milk,
1$ tablespoonful of good yeast, 3 eggs, % lb. of currants, £ lb. of white
moist sugar, 2 oz. of candied peel. •

Mode. — Put the milk and butter into a saucepan, and shake it
round over a fire until the butter is melted, but do not allow the milk
to get very hot. Put the flour into a basin, stir to it the milk and
butter, the yeast, and eggs, which should be well beaten, and form
the whole into a smooth dough. Let it stand in a warm place, covered
with a cloth, to rise, and, when sufficiently risen, add the currants,
sugar, and candied peel cut into thin slices. When all the ingredients
are thoroughly mixed, line 2 moderate-sized cake-tins with buttered
paper, which should be about six inches higher than the tin ; pour in
the mixture, let it stand to rise again for another f hour, and then
bake the cakes in a brisk oven for about I5 hour. If the tops of them
become too brown, cover them with paper until they are done through.
A few drops of essence of lemon, or a little grated nutmeg, may be
added when the flavour is liked.

Time. — From to l£ hour. Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient to make 2 moderate-sized cakes.

Seasonable at any time.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES.

1789. Beverages are innumerable in their variety ; but the ordinary bever-
ages drunk in the British isles, may be divided into three classes : — 1. Beverages
of the simplest kind not fermented. 2. Beverages, consisting of water, contain-
ing a considerable quantity of carbonic acid. 3. Beverages composed partly of
fermented liquors. Of the first class may be mentioned, — water, toast-and-
water, barley-water, ean sucr£, lait sucrd, cheese and milk whey, milk-and-
water, lemonade, orangeade, sherbet, apple and pear juice, capillaire, vinegar-
and-water, raspberry vinegar and water.

1790. Of the common class of beverages, consisting of water impregnated
with carbonic acid gas, we may name soda-water, single and double, ordinary
effervescing draughts, and ginger-beer.

1791. The beverages composed partly of fermented liquors, are hot spiced
wines, bishop, egg-flip, egg-hot, ale posset, sack posset, punch, and spirits-and-
water.

1792. We will, however, forthwith treat on the most popular of our beverages,
beginning with the one which makes ‘ ‘ the cup that cheers but not inebriates.”

1793. The beverage called tea has now become almost a necessary of life.
Previous to the middle of the 17th century it was not used in England, and it
was wholly unknown to the Greeks and Romans. Pepys says, in his Diary, —
“ September 25th, 1661. — I sent for a cup of tea (a China drink), of which I
had never drunk before.” Two years later it was so rare a commodity in

S72

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKEnY.

England, that the English East-India Company bought 2 lbs. 2 oz. of it, as
a present for his majesty. In 1660 it was sold in London for sixty shillings
a pound. From that dale the consumption has gone on increasing from
5,000 lbs. to 50,000,000 lbs.

1 794. Linnams was induced to think that thero were two species of tea-plant,
ono of which produced the black, and the other the green teas ; but later observa-
tions do not confirm this. When the leaves of black and green tea are expanded
by hot water, and examined by the botanist, though a difference of character
is perceived, yet this is not sufficient to authorize considering them as distinct
species. The tea-tree flourishes best in temperate regions ; in China it is in-
digenous. The part of China where the best tea is cultivated, is called by us
the “ tea country.” The cultivation of the plant requires great care. It is
raised chiefly on the sides of hills ; and, in order to increase the quantity and
improve the quality of the leaves, tho shrub is pruned, so as not to exceed the
height of from two to three feet, much in the same manner as the vine is treated
in France. They pluck the leaves, one selecting them according to tho kinds of
tea required ; and, notwithstanding the tediousness of the operation, each
labourer is able to gather from four to ten or fifteen pounds a day. When the
trees attain to six or seven years of age, the produce becomes so inferior that
they are removed to make room for a fresh succession, or they are cut down to
allow of numerous young shoots. Teas of the finest flavour consist of the
youngest leaves ; and as these are gathered at four different periods of the
year, the younger the leaves the higher flavoured the tea, and the scarcer, and
consequently the dearer, the article.

1795. The various names by which teas are sold in the British market are
corruptions of Chinese words. There are about a dozen different kinds ; but
the principal are Bohea, Congou, and Souchong, and signify, respectively, in-
ferior, middling, and superior. Teas are often perfumed and flavoured with
the leaves of different kinds of plants grown on purpose. Different tea- farms
in China produce teas of various qualities, raised by skilful cultivation on various
soils.

1796. Tea, when chomically analyzed, is found to contain woody fibre,
mucilage, a considerable quantity of the astringent principle, or tannin, a
narcotic principle, which is, perhaps, connected with a peculiar aroma. Tho
tannin is shown by its striking a black colour with sulphate of iron, nud is
the cause of the dark stain which is always formed when tea is spilt upon
buff-coloured cottons dyed with iron. A constituent called Thcinc has also
boon discovered in tea, supposed to be identical with Caffeine, ono of tho
constituents of coffee. Liebig says, “ Theine yields, in certain processes of
decomposition, a series of most remarkable products, which have much analogy
with those derived from uric acid in similar circumstances. . . . The infusion
of tea differs from that of coffee, by containing iron and manganese. . . . e
have in tea, of many kinds, a beverage which contains tho active constituents
of tho most powerful mineral springs, and, however small the amount of iron

BEVERAGES.

873

may bo which wo daily take in this form, it cannot bo destitute of influence on
the vital processes.”

1797. Chinese tea has frequently been adulterated in this country, by the
admixture of the dried leaves of certain plants. The leaves of the sloe, white
thorn, ash, elder, and some others, have been employed for this purpose ;
such as the leaves of the speedwell, wild germander, black currants, syringa,
purple-spiked willow-herb, sweet-brier, and cherry-tree. Some of these are
harmless, others are to a certain degree poisonous ; as, for example, are the
leaves of all the varieties of the plum and cherry tribe, to which the sloe
belongs. Adulteration by means of these leaves is by no means a new species
of fraud ; and several acts of parliament, from the time of George II., have
been passed, sjtecifying severe penalties against those guilty of the offeneo,
which, notwithstanding numerous convictions, continues to the present time.

179S. In the purchase of tea, that should be chosen which possesses an
agreeable odour and is as whole as possible, in order that the leaf may be easily
examined. The greatest care should be taken that it has not been exposed to
the air, which destroys its flavour.

1799. It would be impossible, in the space at our command, to enumerate
the various modes adopted in different countries for “ making coffee that is,
the phrase commonly understood to mean the complete preparation of this
delicious beverage for drinking. For performing this operation, such recipes
or methods as we have found most practical will be inserted in their proper
place ; but the following facts connected with coffee will be found highly
interesting.

1800. The introduction of coffee into this country is comparatively of recent
date. We are assured by Bruce that the coffee-tree is a native of Abyssinia,
and it is said to have been cultivated in that country from time immemorial.

1801. It appears that coffee was first introduced into England by Daniel
Edwards, a Turkey merchant, whose servant, Pasqua, a Greek, understood the
manner of roasting it. This servant, under the patronage of Edwards, estab-
lished the first coffee-house in London, in George Yard, Lombard Street.
Coffee was then sold at four or five guineas a pound, and a duty was scon
afterwards laid upon it of fourpence a gallon, when made into a beverage. In
the course of two centuries, however, this berry, unknown originally as an
articlo of food, except to some savage tribes on the confines of Abyssinia, has
made its way through the whole of the civilized world. Mahommedans of all
tanks dtink coffee twice a day ; it is in universal request in France ; and the
demand for it throughout the British isles is daily increasing, the more espe-
cially since so much attention has been given to mechanical contrivances for
roasting and grinding the berry and preparing the beverage.

1802. Of the various kinds of coffee the Arabian is considered the best. It
is grown chiefly in the districts of Aden and Mocha ; whence the name of our

874

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mocha coffee. Mocha coffee has a smaller and rounder bean than any other,
and likewise a more agreeable smell and taste. The next in reputation and
quality is the J ava and Ceylon coffee, and then the coffees of Bourbon and
Martinique, and that of Berbice, a district of the colony of British Guiana.
The Jamaica and St. Domingo coffees are loss esteemed.

1S03. A considerable change takes place in the arrangement of the constituents
of coffee by the application of heat in roasting it. Independently of one of the
objects of roasting, namely, that of destroying its toughness and rendering it
easily ground, its tannin and other principles are rendered partly soluble in
water ; and it is to the tannin that tlio brown colour of the decoction of coffee
is owing. An aromatic flavour is likewise developed during torrefaction, which
is not perceived in the raw berry, and which is not produced in the greatest
perfection until the heat has arrived at a certain degree of temperature ; but,
if the heat be increased beyond this, the flavour is again dissipated, and littlo
remains but a bitter and astringent matter with carbon.

1804. The roasting of coffee in the best manner requires great nicety, and
much of the qualities of the beverage depends upon the operation. The
roasting of coffee for the dealers in London and Paris has now become a
separate branch of business, and some of the roasters perform the operation
on a great scale, with considerable skill. Roasted coffee loses from 20 to 30
per cent, by sufficient roasting, and the powder suffers much by exposure to
the air ; but, while raw, it not only does not lose its flavour for a year or two,
but improves by keeping. If a cup of the best coffee be placed upon a table
boiling hot, it will fill the room with its fragrance ; but the coffee, when
warmed again after being cold, will be found to have lost most of its flavour.

1805. To have coffee in perfection, it should be roasted and ground just
before it is used, and more should not be ground at a time than is wanted for
immediate use, or, if it be necessary to grind more, it should be kept closed
from the air. Coffee readily imbibes exhalations from other substances, and
thus often acquires a bad flavour : brown sugar placed near it will communicate
a disagreeable flavour. It is stated that the coffee in the West Indies has
often been injured by being laid in rooms near the sugar-works, or where rum
is distilled ; and the same effect has been produced by bi-inging over coffee in
the same ships with rum and sugar. Dr. Moseley mentions that a few bags
of pepper, on board a ship from India, spoiled a whole cargo of coffee.

1806. With respect to the quantity of coffee used in making the decoction,
much depends upon the taste of tho consumer. The greatest and most
common fault in English coffee is tho too small quantity of the ingredient.
Count Rumford says that to make good coffeee for drinking after dinner, a
pound of good Mocha coffee, which, when roasted and ground, weighs only
thirteen ounces, serves to mako fifty-six full cups, or a little less than a quarter
of an ounce to a coffee-cup of moderate size.

RECIPES.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

TO MAKE CHOCOLATE.

1807. Ingredients. — Allow l oz. of chocolate to each person;
to every oz. allow § pint of water, i pint of milk.

Mode. — Make the milk-and-water hot; scrape the chocolate
into it, and stir the mixture constantly and quickly until the
chocolate is dissolved; bring it to the boiling-point, stir it well,
and serve directly with white sugar. Chocolate prepared with
in a mill, as shown in the engraving, is made by putting in the
scraped chocolate, pouring over it the boiling milk-and-water,
and milling it over the fire until hot and frothy.

Sufficient. — Allow i oz. of cake chocolate to each person.

Chocolate and Cocoa. — Both these preparations are made from the seeds or beans
of the cacao-tree, which grows in the West Indies and South America. The Spanish, and
the proper name, is cacao, not cocoa, as it is generally spelt. From this mistake, the
tree from which the beverage is procured has been often confounded with the palm that
produces the edible cocoa-nuts, which are the produce of the cocoa-tree ( Cocos nucifera),
whereas the tree from which chocolate is procured is very different (the Theobroma cacao) .
The cocoa-tree was cultivated by the aboriginal inhabitanls of South America, particularly
in Mexico, where, according to Humboldt, it was reared by Montezuma. It was trans-
planted thence into other dependencies of the Spanish monarchy in 1520 ; and it was so
highly esteemed by Linmeus as to receive from him the name now conferred upon it, of
Theobroma, a term derived from the Greek, and signifying "food for gods.” Chocolate
has always been a favourite beverage among the Spaniards and Creoles, and was considered
here as a great luxury when first introduced, after the discovery of America; but the high
duties laid upon it, confined it long almost entirely to the wealthier classes. Before
it was subjected to duty, Mr. Bryan Edwards stated that cocoa plantations were
numerous in Jamaica, but that the duty caused their almost entire ruin. The removal
of this duty has increased their cultivation. (For engraving of cocoa-bean, see No. 1816.)

TO MAKE ESSENCE OF COFFEE.

1808. Ingredients.— To every j lb. of ground coffee allow 1 small
teaspeonful of powdered chicory, 3 small teacupfuls, or 1 pint, of water.

Mode. — Let the coffee be freshly ground, and, if possible, freshly
roasted ; put it into a percolater, or filter, with the chicory, and
pour slowly over it the above proportion of boiling water. When it
has all filtered through, warm the coffee sufficiently to bring it to the

876

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil ; then filter it a second
time, put it into a 'clean and dry bottle, cork it well, and it will remain
good for several days. Two tablespoonfuls of this essence are quite
sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk. This essence will be
found particularly useful to those persons who have to rise extremely
early ; and having only the milk to make boiling, is very easily and
quickly prepared. When the essence is bottled, pour another 3 tea-
cupfuls of lotting water slowly on the grounds, which, when filtered
through, will be a very weak coffee. The next time there is essence
to be prepared, make this weak coffee boiling, and pour it on the
ground coffee instead of plain water : by this means a better coffee
will be obtained. Never throw away the grounds without having
made use of them in this manner ; and always cork the bottle W'ell
that contains this preparation, until the day that it is -wanted for
making the fresh essence.

Time. — To be filtered once, then brought to the boiling-point, and
filtered again.

Average cost, with coffee at Is. 8 d. per lb., 6 d.

Sufficient. — Allow 2 tablespoonfuls for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk.

TO KOAST COFFEE.

(A French Recipe.)

1809. Itbeing an acknowledged fact that French coffee is decidedly superior
to that made in England, and as the roasting of the berry is of great impor-
tance to the flavour of the preparation, it will be useful and interesting to
know how they manage these things in France. T11 Paris, there are two houses
justly celebrated for the flavour of their coffee, t — La Jlfaison'Corcellet and
La Maison Royer de Chartres; and to obtain this flavour, before roasting they
add to every 3 lbs. of coffee a piece of butter the size of a nut, and a dessert-
spoonful of powdered sugar : it is then roasted in the usual manner. The
addition of the butter and sugar develops the flavour and aroma of the berry ;
but it must be borne in mind, that the quality of the butter must be of the
very best description.

TO MAKE COFFEE.

1810. Ingredients. — Allow 4 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, of ground
coffee to each person ; to every oz. of coffee allow £ pint of water.

Mode. — To make coffee good, it should never be boiled, but the boil-
ing water merely poured on it, the same as for tea. The coffee should
always be purchased in the berry, — if possible, freshly roasted ; and it
should never be ground long before it is wanted for use. There arc
very many new kinds of coffee-pots, but the method of making the

BEVERAGES.

677

coffee is nearly always the same ; namely, pouring the boiling water
on the powder, and allowing it to filter through. Out illustration
shows one of Loysel’s Hydrostatic Urns, which are admirably adapted
for making good and clear coffee, which should be made in the following,
manner : — Warm the urn with boiling water, remove the lid and
movable filter, and place the ground
coffee at the bottom of the urn. Put
the movable filter over this, and
screw the lid, inverted, tightly on
the end of the centre pipe. Pour
into the inverted lid the above
proportion of boiling water, and
when all the water so poured has
disappeared from the funnel, and
made its way down the centre pipe
and up again through the ground
coffee by hydrostatic ‘pressure, un-
screw the lid and cover the urn. Pour back direct into the urn, not
through the funnel, one, two, or three cups, according to the size of
the percolater, in order to make the infusion of uniform strength ;
the contents will then be ready for use, and should run from the tap
strong, hot, and clear. The coffee made in these urns generally turns
out very good, and there is but one objection to them, — the coffee
runs rather slowly from the tap. This is of no consequence where
there is a small party, but tedious where there are many persons to
provide for. A remedy for this objection may be suggested; namely,
to make the coffee very strong, so that not more than 5 of a cup would
be required,, as the rest would be tilled up with milk. Making coffee
in filters or percolaters does away with the necessity of using isinglass,
white of egg, and various other preparations to clear it. Coffee should
always be served very hot, and, if possible, in the same vessel in which
it is made, as pouring it from one pot to another cools, and conse-
quently spoils it. Many persons may think that the proportion of
water we have given for each oz. of coffee is rather small ; it is so,
and the coffee produced from it will be very strong ; £ of a cup will
be found quite sufficient, which should be filled with nice hot milk,
or milk and cream mixed. This is the cafe au lait for which our
neighbours over the Channel are so justly celebrated. Should the
ordinary method of making coffee be preferred, use double the quan-
tity of water, and, in pouring it into the cups, put in more coffee and
less milk.

Sufficient. — For very good coffee, allow h oz., or 1 table-spoonful,
to each person.

878

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

A VERY SIMPLE METHOD OP MAKING COPPEE.

1811. Ingredients.— Allow i oz., or 1 tablespoouful, of coffee to
each person ; to every oz. allow i pint of water.

Mode— Have a small iron ring made to lit the top of the coffee-pot
inside,, and to this ring sew a small muslin hag (the muslin for the
purpose must not be too thin). Fit the bag into the pot, pour some
boiling water in it, and, when the pot is well warmed, put the ground
coffee into the bag ; pour over as much boiling water as is required,
close the lid, and, when all the water has filtered through, remove
the bag, and send the coffee to table. Making it in this manner pre-
vents the necessity of pouring the coffee from one vessel to another,
which cools and spoils it. The water should be poured on the coffee
gradually, so that the infusion may be stronger; and the bag must be
well made, that none of the grounds may escape through the seams,
and so make the coffee thick and muddy.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 tablespoonful, or i oz., to each
person.

The Coffee Plant grows to the height of about twelve or fifteen
feet, with leaves not unlike those of the common laurel, although
more pointed, and not so dry and thick. The blossoms are white,
much like those of jasmine, and issue from the angles of the leaf-
stalks. When the flowers fade, they are succeeded by the colfee-
bean, or seed, which is inclosed in a berry of a red colour, when
ripe resembling a cherry. The coffee-beans are prepared by ex-
posing them to the sun for a few days, that the pulp may ferment
and throw off a strong acidulous moisture. They are then gradually
dried for about three weeks, and put into a mill to separate the husk
coffee. from the seed.

CAEE AH LAIT.

18 12. This is merely very strong coffee added to a large pro-
portion of good hot milk; about 6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee
being quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of milk. Of the essence
No. 1808, which answers admirably for cafe au la.it, so much would
not be required. This preparation is infinitely superior to the weak
watery coffee so often served at English tables. A little cream mixed
with the milk, if the latter cannot be depended on for richness, im-
proves the taste of the coffee, as also the richness of the beverage.

Sufficient. — 6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee, or 2 tablespoonfuls of
the .essence, to a breakfast-cupful of milk.

Tea and Coffee. — It is true, says Liebig, that thousands have lived without a know-
ledge of tea and eofTee; and daily experience teaches us that, under certain circum-
stances, they may be dispensed with without disadvantage to the merely animal functions ;
hut it is au error, certainly, to conclude from this that they may be altogether dispensed
with in reference to their etfccts; and it is a question whether, it wo had no lea and
no codec, the popular instinct would not seek for and discover the means of replacing
them. Science, winch accuses us of so much in these respects, will have, iu the first

BEVERAGES.

879

Diace to ascertain whether it depends on sensual and sinful inclinations merely, that
even- people of the globe have appropriated some such means of acting on the nervous
life from the shore of the Paoilic, where the Indian retires from life for days m order
to enioy the bliss of intoxication with lcoko, to the Arctic regions, where Kamtschat-
dales and Koriakes prepare an intoxicating beverage irom a poisonous mushroom. W o
think it, on the contrary, highly probable, not to say certain, that the instinct of man
feeling certain blanks, certain wants of the intensified life of our times, which cannot be
satisfied or filled up by mere quantity, has discovered, in these products of vegetable life
the true means of giving to his food the desired and necessary quality.

CAFE FTOIR.

1813. This is usually handed round after dinner, and should he
drunk well sweetened, with the addition of a little brandy or liqueurs,
which may be added or not at pleasure. The coffee should be made
very strong, and served in very small cups, but never mixed with
milk or cream. Cafe noir may be made of the essence of coffee
Ko. 1808, by pouring a tablespoonful into each cup, and filling it up
with boiling water. This is a very simple and expeditious manner
of preparing coffee for a large party, but the essence for it must be
made very good, and kept well corked until required for use.

TO MAKE TEA.

1814. There is very little art in making good tea ; if the water is
boiling, and there is no sparing of the fragrant leaf, the beverage will
almost invariably be good. The old-fashioned plan of allowing a
teaspoonful to each person, and one over, is still practised. Warm
the teapot with boiling water ; let it remain for two or three minutes
for the vessel to become thoroughly hot, then pour it away. Put
in the tea, pour in from i to f pint of boiling water, close the lid,
and let it stand for the tea to draw from 5 to 10 minutes ; then fill
up the pot with water. The tea will be quite spoiled unless made with
water that is actually boiling, as the leaves will not open, and the
flavour not be extracted from them ; the beverage will consequently
be colourless and tasteless, — in fact, nothing but tepid water. Where
there is a very large party to make tea for, it is a good plan to
have two teapots instead of putting a large quantity of tea into one
pot ; the tea, besides, will go farther. When the infusion has been
once completed, the addition of fresh tea adds very little to the
strength ; so, when more is required, have the pot emptied of the old
leaves, scalded, and fresh tea made in the usual manner. Economists
say that a few grains of carbonate of soda, added before the boiling
water is poured on the tea, assist to draw out the goodness : if the
water is very hard, perhaps it is a good plan, as the soda softens it ;
but care must be taken to use this ingredient sparingly, as it is liable
to give the tea a soapy taste if added in too large a quantity. For

8S0

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

mixed, tea, the usual proportion is four spoonfuls of black to one of
green ; more of the latter when the flavour is very much liked ; but
strong green tea is highly pernicious, and should never be partaken of
too freely.

Time. — 2 minutes to warm the teapot, 5 to 10
minutes to draw the strength from the tea.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 teaspoonful to each person,
and one over.

Tea. — The tea-tree or shrub belongs to the class and order
of Monadelphia polyandria in the Linmcan system, and to the
natural order of Aurantiacere in the system of Jussieu. Lately
it has been made into a new order, the Theasia, which includes
the Camellia and some other plants. It commonly grows to
the height of from three to six feet ; but it is said, that, in its
wild or native state, it reaches twenty feet or more. In China
it is cultivated in numerous small plantations. In its general
appearance, and the form of its leaf, it resembles the myrtle.
TEA. The blossoms are white and fragrant, not unlike those of the

wild rose, but smaller ; and they are succeeded by soft green
capsules, containing each from one to three white seeds. These capsules are crushed
for oil, which is in general use in China.

AW EXCELLENT SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM
IW TEA OR COFFEE.

1815. Ingredients. — Allow 1 new-laid egg to every large breakfast-
cupful of tea or coffee.

Mode. — Beat up the whole of the egg in a basin, put it into a cup
(or a portion of it, if the cup be small), and pour over it the tea or
coffee very hot. These should be added very gradually, and stirred all
the time, to prevent the egg from curdling. In point of nourish-
ment, both these beverages are much improved by this addition.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or
coffee.

TO MAKE COCOA.

1816. Ingredients.— Allow 2 teaspoonfuls of the prepared cocoa to
1 breakfast-cup ; boiling milk and boiling water.

Mode. — Put the cocoa into a breakfast-cup, pour over it sufficient
cold milk to make it into a smooth paste ;
then add equal quantities of boiling milk and
boiling water, and stir all well together. Care
must be taken not to allow the milk to get
burnt, as it -will entirely spoil the flavour of the
preparation. The above directions are usually
given for making the prepared cocoa. The rock
cocoa, or that bought in a solid piece, should be
scraped, and made in the same manner, taking
care to rub down all the lumps before the boil-
ing liquid is added.

COCOA-DEAN.

BEVERAGES.

881

Sufficient— 2 teaspoonfuls of prepared cocoa for 1 breakfast-cup,
or { oz. of the rock cocoa for the same quantity.

COWSLIP WINE.

1817. Ingredients.— To every gallon of water allow 3 lbs. of lump
sugar, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, the rind and juice of
1 Seville orange, 1 gallon of cowslip pips. To every 4£ gallons of
wine allow 1 bottle of brandy.

Mode. — Boil the sugar and water together for h hour, carefully
removing all the scum as it rises. Pour this boiling licpior on the
orange and lemon-rinds, and the juice, which should be strained ;
when milk- warm, add the cowslip pips or flowers, picked from the
stalks and seeds ; and to 9 gallons of wine 3 tablespoonfuls of good
fresh brewers’ yeast. Let it ferment 3 or 4 days ; then put all
together in a cask with the brandy, and let it remain for 2 months,
when bottle it off for use.

Time. — To be boiled \ hour ; to ferment 3 or 4 days ; to remain in
the cask 2 months.

Average cost, exclusive of the cowslips, which may be picked in the
fields, 2s. 9d. per gallon.

Seasonable. — Make this in April or May.

ELDER WINE.

1818. Ingredients.— To every 3 gallons of water allow 1 peck of
elderberries ; to every gallon of juice allow 3 lbs. of sugar, f oz. of
ground ginger, 6 cloves, 1 lb. of good Turkey raisins ; i pint of brandy
to every gallon of wine. To every 9 gallons of wine 3 or 4 tablespoon-
fuls of fresh brewer’s yeast.

Mode. — Pour the water, quite boiling, on the elderberries, which
should be picked from the stalks, and let these stand covered for
24 hours ; then strain the whole through a sieve or bag, breaking the
fruit to express all the juice from it. Measure the liquor, and to
every gallon allow the above proportion of sugar. Boil the juice and
sugar with the ginger, cloves, and raisins for 1 hour, skimming the
liquor the whole time ; let it stand until milk-warm, then put it into a
clean dry cask, with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of good fresh yeast to every
9 gallons of wine. Let it ferment for about a fortnight ; then add the
brandy, bung up the cask, and let it stand some months before it is
bottled, when it will be found excellent. A bunch of hops suspended
to a string from the bung, some persons say, will preserve the wine
good for several years. Elder wine is usually mulled, and served
with sippets of toasted bread and a little grated nutmeg.

3 Xj

882

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Time. — To stand covered 24 hours ; to be boiled 1 hour
Average cost, when made at home, 3s. 6 d. per gallon.
Seasonable. — Make this in September.

elder-berry is well adapted for the production of wine ;
its juice contains a considerable portion of the principle
necessary for a vigorous fermentation, and its beautiful
colour communicates a rich tint to the wine made from
it. It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and therefore
demands un addition of sugar. It is one of the very best
of the genuine old English wines ; and a cup of it mulled,
just previous to retiring to bed on a winter night, is a
thing to be “ run for,” as Cobbett would say : it is not,
however, agreeable to every taste.

Elder-berry Wine. — The

ELDER-BERRIES.

GINGER WINE.

1819. Ingredients. — To 9 gallons of water allow 27 lbs. of loaf
sugar, 9 lemons, 12 oz. of bruised ginger, 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast,
2 lbs. of raisins stoned and chopped, 1 pint of brandy.

Mode. — Boil together for 1 hour in a copper (let it previously be
well scoured and beautifully clean) the water, sugar, lemon-rinds,
and bruised ginger; remove every particle of scum as it rises, and
when the liquor is sufficiently boiled, put it into a large tub or pan,
as it must not remain in the copper. When nearly cold, add the
yeast, which must be thick and very fresh, and, the next day, put all
in a dry cask with the strained lemon -juice and chopped raisins. Stir
the wine every day for a fortnight ; then add the brandy, stop the
cask down by degrees, and in a few weeks it will be fit to bottle.

Average cost, 2s. per gallon. Sufficient, to make 9 gallons of wine.

Seasonable. — The best time for making this wine is either in March
or September.

Note. — Wine made early in March will be fit to bottle in June.

GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR.

(An Excellent Recipe.)

1820. Ingredients. — 2 pecks of crystal gooseberries, 6 gallons of
water, 12 lbs. of foots sugar of the coarsest brown quality.

Mode. — Mash the gooseberries (which should be quite ripe) in a tub
with a mallet ; put to them the water nearly milk-warm ; let this
stand 24 hours ; then strain it through a sieve, and put the sugar to
it ; mix it well, and tun it. These proportions are for a 9-gallon cask ;
and if it be not quite full, more water must be added. Let the mix-
ture be stirred from the bottom of the cask two or three times daily
for three or four days, to assist the melting of the sugar ; then paste
a piece of linen cloth over the bunghole, and set the cask in a warm
place, but not in the sun ; any corner of a warm kitchen is the best

BEVERAGES.

883

situation for it. The following spring it should be drawn off into
stone bottles, and the vinegar will be fit for use twelvemonths after it
is made. This will be found a most excellent preparation, greatly
superior to much that is sold under the name of the best white wine
vinegar. Many years’ experience has proved that pickle made with
this vinegar will keep, when bought vinegar will not preserve the
ingredients. The cost per gallon is merely nominal, especially to
those who reside in the country and grow their own gooseberries ;
the coarse sugar is then the only ingredient to be purchased.

Time. — To remain in the cask 9 months.

Average cost, when the gooseberries have to be purchased, Is. per
gallon ; when they are grown at home, 6 d. per gallon.

Seasonable. — This should be made the end of June or the beginning
of July, when gooseberries are ripe and plentiful.

EFFERVESCING- GOOSEBERRY WINE.

1821. Ingredients. — To every gallon of water allow 6 lbs. of green
gooseberries, 3 lbs. of lump sugar.

Mode. — This wine should be prepared from unripe gooseberries, in
order to avoid the flavour which the fruit would give to the wine
when in a mature state. Its briskness depends more upon the time
of bottling than upon the unripe state of the fruit, for effervescing
wine can be made from fruit that is ripe as well as that which is
unripe. The fruit should be selected when it has nearly attained its
full growth, and consequently before it shows any tendency to ripen.
Any bruised or decayed berries, and those that are very small, should
be rejected. The blossom and stalk ends should be removed, and the
fruit well bruised in a tub or pan, in such quantities as to insure each
berry being broken without crushing the seeds. Pour the water
(which should be warm) on the fruit, squeeze and stir it with the
hand until all the pulp is removed from the skin and seeds, and
cover the whole closely for 24 hours ; after which, strain it through
a coarse bag, and press it with as much force as can be conveniently
applied, to extract the whole of the juice and liquor the fruit may
contain. To every 40 or 50 lbs. of fruit one gallon more of hot water
may be passed through the marc, or husks, in order to obtain any
soluble matter that may remain, and be again pressed. The juice
should be put into a tub or pan of sufficient size to contain all of it,
and the sugar added to it. Let it be well stirred until the sugar is
dissolved, and place the pan in a wrarm situation ; keep it closely
covered, and let it ferment for a day or two. It must then be drawn
off into clean casks, placed a little on one side for the scum that

3 l 2

884

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

arises to be thrown out, and the casks kept filled with the remaining
“ must,” that should be reserved for that purpose. When the active
fermentation has ceased, the casks should be plugged upright, again
filled, if necessary, the bungs be put in loosely, and, after a few days,
when the fermentation is a little more languid (which may be known
by the hissing noise ceasing), the bungs should be driven in tight, and
a spile-hole made, to give vent if necessary. About November or
December, on a clear fine day, the wine should be racked from its
lees into clean casks, which may be rinsed with brandy. After a
month, it should be examined to see if it is sufficiently clear for
bottling ; if not, it must be fined with isinglass, which may be dis-
solved in some of the wine : 1 oz. will be sufficient for 9 gallons. In
March or April, or when the gooseberry bushes begin to blossom, the
wine must be bottled, in order to insure its being effervescing.

Seasonable. — Make this the end of May or beginning of June, before
the berries ripen.

LEMON SYRUP.

1822. Ingredients. — 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of water, 1 oz. of
citric acid, \ drachm of essence of lemon.

Mode. — Boil the sugar and water together for \ hour, and put it
into a basin, where let it remain till cold. Beat the citric acid to a
powder, mix the essence of lemon with it, then add these two ingre-
dients to the syrup ; mix well, and bottle for use. Two tablespoonfuls
of the syrup are sufficient for a tumbler of cold water, and will be
found a very refreshing summer drink.

Sufficient— 2 tablespoonfuls of syrup to a tumbler-ful of cold water.

LEMON WINE.

1823. Ingredients. — To 4£ gallons of water allow the pulp of
50 lemons, the rind of 25, 10 lbs. of loaf sugar, ^ oz. of isinglass,
1 bottle of brandy.

Mode. — Peel and slice the lemons, but use only the rind of 25 of
them, and put them into the cold water. Let it stand 8 or 9 days,
squeezing the lemons well every day ; then strain the water oil and
put it into a cask with the sugar. Let it work some time, and when
it has ceased working, put in the isinglass. Stop the cask down ; in
about six months put in the brandy and bottle the wine off.

Seasonable. — The best time to make this is in January or February ,
when lemons are best and cheapest.

LEVERAGES.

885

MALT WINE.

1824. Ingredients. — 5 gallons of water, 28 lbs. of sugar, 6 quarts
of sweet-wort, 6 quarts of tun, 3 lbs. of raisins, J lb. of candy, 1 pint
of brandy.

Mode. — Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; skim it
well, and put the liquor into a convenient-sized pan or tub. Allow it
to cool ; then mix it with the sweet- wort and tun. Let it stand for
3 days, then put it into a barrel ; here it will work or ferment for
another three days or more ; then bung up the cask, and-, keep it
undisturbed for 2 or 3 months. After this, add the raisins (whole),
the candy, and brandy, and, in 6 months’ time, bottle the wine off.
Those who do not brew, may procure the sweet-wort and tun from
any brewer. Sweet- wort is the liquor that leaves the mash of malt
before it is boiled with the hops ; tun is the new beer after the whole
of the brewing operation has been completed.

Time. — To be boiled 10 minutes ; to stand 3 days after mixing ; to
ferment 3 days ; to remain in the cask 2 months before the raisins are
added ; bottle 6 months after.

Seasonable. — Make this in March or October.

HOME-MADE NOTEAU.

18-25. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of bitter almonds, 1 oz. of sweet ditto,
1 lb. of loaf sugar, the rinds of 3 lemons, 1 quart of Irish whiskey or
gin, 1 tablespoonful of clarified honey, -j pint of new milk.

Mode. — Blanch and pound the almonds, and mix with them the
sugar, which should also be pounded. Boil the milk; let it stand till
quite cold ; then mix all the ingredients together, and let them remain
for 10 days, shaking them every day. Filter the mixture through
blotting-paper, bottle off for use in small bottles, and seal the corks
down. This will be found useful for flavouring many sweet dishes.

Average cost, 2s.

Sufficient to make about 2| pints of iSoyeau.

Seasonable. — May be made at any time.

ORANGE BRANDY.

(Excellent.)

1 826. Ingredients.— To every h gallon of brandy allow i pint of
Seville orange-juice, lj lb. of loaf sugar.

Mode— To bring out the full flavour of the orange-peel, rub a few
lumps of the sugar on 2 or 3 unpared oranges, and put these lumps to

880

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

tlie rest. Mix the brandy with the orange-juice, strained, the rinds
of G of the oranges pared very thin, and the sugar. Let all stand in
a closely-covered jar for about 3 days, stirring it 3 or 4 times a day.
When clear, it should be bottled and closely corked for a year ; it
will then be ready for use, but will keep any length of time. This is
a most excellent stomachic when taken pure in small quantities ; or,
as the strength of the brandy is very little deteriorated by the other
ingredients, it may be diluted with water.

Time. — To be stirred every day for 3 days.

Average cost, 7s.

Sufficient to make 2 quarts. Seasonable. — Make this in March.

A VESY SIMPLE AND EASY METHOD OP MAKING A
VERY SUPERIOR ORANGE WINE.

1827. Ingeedients.— 90 Seville oranges, 32 lbs. of lump sugar,
water.

Mode. — Break up the sugar into small pieces, and put it into a dry,
sweet 9-gallon cask, placed in a cellar or other storehouse, where it is
intended to be kept. Have ready close to the cask two large pans or
wooden keelers, into one of which put the peel of the oranges pared
quite thin, and into the other the pulp after the juice has been
squeezed from it. Strain the juice through a piece of double muslin,
and put it into the cask with the sugar. Then pour- about gallon
of cold spring water on both the peels and pulp ; let it stand for 24
hours, and then strain it into the cask ; add more water to the peels
and pulp when this is done, and repeat the same process every day for
a week : it should take about a week to fill up the cask. Be careful
to apportion the quantity as nearly as possible to the seven days, and
to stir the contents of the cask each day. On the third day after the
cask is full, — that is, the tenth day after the commencement of
making, — the cask may be securely bunged down. This is a very
simple and easy method, and the wine made according to it will be
pronounced to be most excellent. There is no troublesome boiling,
and all fermentation takes place ;n the cask. When the above direc-
tions are attended to, the wine cannot fail to be good. It should be
bottled in 8 or 9 months, and will be fit for use in a twelvemonth after
the time of making. Ginger wine may be made in precisely the same
manner, only, with the 9-gallon cask for ginger wine, 2 lbs. of the
best whole ginger, bruised, must bo put with the sugar. It will be
found convenient to tie the ginger loosely in a muslin bag.

Time. — Altogether, 10 days to make it.

BEVERAGES.

887

Average cost, 2s. 6 cl. per gallon. Sufficient for 9 gallons.

Seasonable. — Make this in March, and bottle it the following
January.

RASPBERRY VINEGAR.

1828. Ingredients. — To every 3 pints of the best vinegar allow 4§
pints of freshly- gathered raspberries ; to each pint of liquor allow
1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, 1 wineglassful of brandy.

Mode. — Let the raspberries be freshly gathered ; pick them from the
stalks, and put If pint of them into a stone jar ; pour 3 pints of the
best vinegar over them, and let them remain for 24 hours ; then
strain the liquor over another 1| pint of fresh raspberries. Let
them remain another 24 hours, and the following day repeat the
process for the third time ; then drain off the liquor without pressing,
and pass it through a jelly-bag (previously wetted with plain vinegar),
into a stone jar. Add to every pint of the liquor 1 lb. of pounded
loaf sugar ; stir them together, and, when the sugar is dissolved,
cover the jar ; set it upon the fire in a saucepan of boiling water, and
let it boil for an hour, removing the scum as fast as it rises ; add to
each pint a glass of brandy, bottle it, and seal the corks. This is an
excellent drink in cases of fevers and colds : it should be diluted with
cold water, according to the taste or requirement of the patient.

Time. — To be boiled 1 hour. Average cost, Is. per pint.

Sufficient to make 2 quarts.

Seasonable. — Make this in July or August, when raspberries are
most plentiful.

RHUBARB WINE.

1829. Ingredients. — To every 5 lbs. of rhubarb pulp allow 1 gallon
of cold spring water ; to every gallon of liquor allow 3 lbs. of loaf
sugar, i oz. of isinglass, the rind of 1 lemon.

Mode. — Gather the rhubarb about the middle of May ; wipe it with
a wet cloth, and, with a mallet, bruise it in a large wooden tub or
other convenient means. When reduced to a pulp, weigh it, and to
every 0 lbs. add 1 gallon of cold spring water ; let these remain for 3
days, stirring 3 or 4 times a day ; and, on the fourth day, press the
pulp through a hair sieve ; put the iiquor into a tub, and to every
gallon put 3 lbs. of loaf sugar ; stir in the sugar until it is quite
dissolved, and add the lemon-rind; let the liquor remain, and, in 4,
5, or 6 days, the fermentation will begin to subside, and a crust or
head will be formed, which should be skimmed off, or the liquor
drawn from it, when the crust begins to crack or separate. Put the
wine into a cask, and if, after that, it ferments, rack it off into

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MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

another cask, and in a fortnight stop it down. If the wine should
have lost any of its original sweetness, add a little more loaf sugar,
taking care that the cask is full. Bottle it off in February or March,
and in the summer it should be lit to drink. It will improve greatly
by keeping ; and, should a very brilliant colour be desired, add a little
currant-juice.

Seasonable. — Make this about the middle of May.

WELSH NECTAR.

1830. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of raisins, 3 lemons, 2 lbs. of loaf sugar,
2 gallons of boiling water.

Mode. Cut the peel of the lemons very thin, pour upon it the
boiling water, and, when cool, add the strained juice of the lemons,
the sugar, and the raisins, stoned and chopped very fine. Let it stand
4 or 5 days, stirring it every day ; then strain it through a jelly-bag,
and bottle it for present use.

Time.— 4 or 5 days. Average cost, Is. 9 d.

Sufficient to make 2 gallons.

CLARET-CUP.

1831. Ingredients. — 1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle of soda-water, about

lb. of pounded ice, 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, t teaspoon -
ful of grated nutmeg, 1 liqueur-glass of
Maraschino, a sprig of green borage.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients into a
silver cup, regulating the proportion of ice
by the state of the weather : if very warm, a
larger quantity would be necessary. Hand
the cup round with a clean napkin passed
through one of the handles, that the edge
of the cup may be wiped after each guest
has partaken of the contents thereof.

Seasonable in summer.

Claeets.— All those wines called in England clarets are the produce of the country
round Bordeaux, or the Bordelais ; hut it is remarkable that there is no pure wine in
France known by the name of claret, which is a corruption of clairet, a term that is
applied there to any red or rose-coloured wine. Rouud Bordeaux are produced a
number of wines of the first quality, which pass under the name simply of cins tie Bor-
deaux, or have the designation of the particular district where they are made ; as
Lafltte, Latour, &c. The clarets brought to the English market are frequently prepared
for it by the wine-growers by mixing together several Bordeaux wines, or by adding to
them a portion of some other wines ; but in France the pure wines are carefully pre-
served distinct. The genuine wines of Bordeaux are of great variety, that part being
one of the most distinguished in France ; and the principal vineyards are those of
Medoc, Palus, Graves, and Blanche, the product of each having characters considerably
different.

BEVERAGES.

839

CHAMPAGNE-CUP.

1832. Ingredients.— 1 quart bottle of champagne, 2 bottles of soda-
water, 1 liqueur-glass of brandy or Cura§oa, 2 tablespoonfuls of pow-
dered sugar, 1 lb. of pounded ice, a sprig of green borage.

Mode. — Put all the ingredients into a silver cup ; stir them together,
and serve the same as claret-cup No. 1831. Should the above pro-
portion of sugar not be found sufficient to suit some tastes, increase
the quantity. When borage is not easily obtainable, substitute for it
a few slices of cucumber-rind.

Seasonable. — Suitable for pic-nics, balls, weddings, and other festive
occasions.

Champagne. — This, the most celebrated of French wines, is the produce chiefly of the
province of that name, and is generally understood in England to be a brisk, effer-
vescing, or sparkling white wine, of a very fine flavour but this is only one of the
varieties of this class. There is both red and white champagne, and each of these may
be either still or brisk. There are the sparkling wines (mouaseux), and the still wines
(non-mousseux) . The brisk are in general the most highly esteemed, or, at least, are the
most popular in this country, on account of their delicate flavour and the agreeable
pungency which they derive from the carbonic acid they contain, and to which they
owe their briskness.

GINGER BEER.

1833. Ingredients. — 2 Jibs, of loaf sugar, H oz. of bruised ginger,
1 oz. of cream of tartar, the rind and j uice of 2 lemons, 3 gallons of
boiling water, 2 large tablespoonfuls of thick and fresh brewer’s yeast.

Mode. — Peel the lemons, squeeze the juice, strain it, and put the
peel and juice into a large earthen pan, with the bruised ginger, cream
of tartar, and loaf sugar. Pour over these ingredients 3 gallons of
boiling water; let it stand until just warm, when add the yeast,
which should be thick and perfectly fresh. Stir the contents of the
pan well, and let them remain near the fire all night, covering the
pan over with a cloth. The next day skim off the yeast, and pour
the liquor carefully into another vessel, leaving the sediment ; then
bottle immediately, and tie the corks down, and in 3 days the ginger
beer will be fit for use. For some tastes, the above proportion of sugar
may be found rather too large, when it may be diminished ; but the
beer will not keep so long good.

Average cost for this quantity, 2s. ; or \d. per bottle.

Sufficient to fill 4 dozen ginger-beer bottles.

Seasonable. — This should be made during the summer months.

LEMONADE.

1834. Ingredients. — The rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 3 large or
4 small ones, J lb. of loaf sugar, 1 quart of boiling water.

890

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

Mode. — Rub some of tbe sugar, in lumps, on 2 of the lemons until
they have imbibed all the oil from them, and put it with the remainder
of the sugar into a jug ; add the lemon-juice (but no pips), and pour
over the whole a quart of boiling water. When the sugar is dissolved,
strain the lemonade through a fine sieve or piece of muslin, and, when
cool, it will be ready for use. The lemonade will be much improved
by having the white of an egg beaten up in it ; a little sherry mixed
with it, also, makes this beverage much nicer.

Average cost, 6 d. per quart.

.Lemonade. — “ There is a current opinion among women,” says BrillatSavarin, “which
every year causes the death of many young women, — that acids, especially vinegar, are
preventives of obesity. Beyond all doubt, acids have the effect of destroying obesity;
but they also destroy health and freshness. Lemonade is, of all acids, the most harmless ;
but few stomachs can resist it long. I knew, in 1776, at Dijon, a young lady of great
beauty, to whom I was attached by bonds of friendship, great, almost, as those of love.
One day, when she had for some time gradually grown pale and thin (previously she had
a slight embonpoint) , she told me in confidence, that, as her young friends had ridiculed
her for being fat, she had, to counteract the tendency, been in the habit every day of
drinking a large glass of vinaigre. She died at eighteen years of age, from the effect of
these potions." *

TO MAKE NEGUS.

1 835. Ingredients. — To every pint of port wine allow 1 quart of
boiling water, lb. of sugar, 1 lemon, grated nutmeg to taste.

Mode. — As this beverage is more usually drunk at children’s parties
than at any other, the wine need not be very old or expensive for the
purpose, a new fruity wine answering very well for it. Put the wine
into a jug, rub some lumps of sugar (equal to \ lb.) on the lemon-rind
until all the yellow part of the skin is absorbed, then squeeze the
juice, and strain it. Add the sugar and lemon -juice to the port wine,
with the grated nutmeg ; pour over it the boiling water, cover the jug,
and, when the beverage has cooled a little, it will be fit for use.
Negus may also be made of sherry, or any other sweet white wine,
but is more usually made of port than of any other beverage.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 pint of wine, with the other ingredients in
proportion, for a party of 9 or 10 children.

A PLEASANT DEINK FOE WAEM WEATHEE.

1836. Ingredients. — To every lj pint of good ale allow 1 bottle of
ginger beer.

Mode. — For this beverage the ginger beer must be in an eflervescing
state, and the beer not in the least turned or sour. Mix them toge-
ther, and drink immediately. The draught is refreshing and whole-
some, as the ginger corrects the action of the beer. It does not
deteriorate by standing a little, but, of course, is better when taken
fresh'.

BEVERAGES.

891

FOR A SUMMER DRAUGHT.

1837. Ingredients. — The juice of 1 lemon, a tumbler-ful of cold
water, pounded sugar to taste, A small teaspoonful of carbonate
of soda.

Mode. — Squeeze the juice from the lemon ; strain, and add it to the
water, with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely.
When well mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and drink while the
mixture is in an effervescing state.

TO MULL WINE.

1838. Ingredients. — To every pint of wine allow 1 large cupful of
water, sugar and spice to taste.

Mode. — In making preparations like the above, it is very difficult
to give the exact proportions of ingredients like sugar and spice,
as what quantity might suit one person would be to another quite
distasteful. Boil the spice in the water until the flavour is extracted,
then add the wine and sugar, and bring the whole to the boiling-point,
when serve with strips of crisp dry toast, or with biscuits. The spices
usually used for mulled wine are cloves, grated nutmeg, and cin-
namon or mace. Any kind of wine may be mulled, but port and
claret are those usually selected for the purpose ; and the latter
requires a very large proportion of sugar. The vessel that the wine
is hoiled in must be delicately clean, and should be kept exclusively
for the purpose. Small tin warmers may be purchased for a trifle,
which are more suitable than saucepans, as, if the latter are not
scrupulously clean, they will spoil the wine, by imparting to it a very
disagreeable flavour. These warmers should be used for no other
purposes.

TO MAKE HOT PUNCH.

1839. Ingredients. — | pint of rum, i pint of brandy, \ lb. of sugar,

1 large lemon, i teaspoonful of nutmeg, 1 pint of boiling water.

Mode.. — Rub the sugar over the lemon until it has absorbed all the
yellow part of the skin, then put the sugar into a punchbowl; add the
lemon-juice (free from pips), and mix these two
ingredients well together. Pour over them the
boiling water, stir well together, add the rum,
brandy, and nutmeg ; mix thoroughly, and the
punch will be ready to serve. It is very im- puxoh-bowi, and ubm.
portant in making good punch that all the ingredients are thoroughly

S92

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERV.

incorporated ; and, to insure success, the processes of mixing must be
diligently attended to.

Sufficient. — Allow a quart for 4 persons ; but this information must
be taken cum grano salis ; for the capacities of persons for this kind
of beverage are generally supposed to vary considerably.

Punch is a beverage made of various spirituous liquors or wine, hot water, the acid
juice of fruits, and sugar. It is considered to be very intoxicating ; but this is probably
because the spirit, being partly sheathed by the mucilaginous juice and the sugar, its
strength does not appear to the taste so great as it really is. Puucb, which was almost
universally drunk among the middle classes about fifty or sixty years ago, has almost
disappeared from our domestic tables, being superseded by wine. There are many
different varieties of punch. It is sometimes kept cold in bottles, and makes a most
agreeable summer drink. In Scotland, instead of the Madeira or sherry generally used
in its manufacture, whiskey is substituted, and then its insidious properties are more
than usually felt. Where fresh lemons cannot be had for punch or similar beverages,
crystallized citric acid and a few drops of the essence of lemon will be very nearly the
same thing. In the composition of “ Regent’s punch,” champagne, brandy, and veritable
Martinique are required; “ Norfolk punch ” requires Seville oranges; “Milk punch”
maybe extemporized by adding a little hot milk to lemonade, and then straining it through
a jelly-bag. Then there are “Wine punch,” “ Tea punch,” and “ French punch,” mado
with lemons, spirits, and wine, in fantastic proportions. But of ail the compounds of
these materials, perhaps, for a summer drink, the North-Americau “ mint julep ” is the
most inviting. Captain Marryat gives the following recipe for its preparation : — “ Put
into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots of mint ; upon them put a
spoonful of white sugar, and equal proportions of peach and common brandy, so as to
fill up one third, or, perhaps, a little less; then take rasped or pounded ice, and fill up
the tumbler. Epicures rub the lips of the tumbler with a piece of fresh pineapple; and
the tumbler itself is very often eucrusted outside with stalactites of ice. As the ice melts,
you drink.” The Virginians, says Captain Marryat, claim the merit of having invented
this superb compound; but, from a passage in the “ Comus ” of Milton, he claims it for
his own country.

WHISKEY CORDIAL.

1840. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of ripe white currants, the rind of 2
lemons, 5 oz. of grated ginger, 1 quart of whiskey, 1 lb. of lump
sugar.

Mode. — Strip the currants from the stalks ; put them into a large
jug ; add the lemon-rind, ginger, and whiskey ; cover the jug closely,
and let it remain covered for 24 hours. Strain through a hair sieve,
add the lump sugar, and let it stand 12 hours longer; then bottle,
and cork well.

Time. — To stand 24 hours before being strained ; 12 hours after the
sugar is added.

Seasonable. — Make this in July.

INVALID COOKERY

o+-

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

A FEW RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN' COOKING
FOR INVALIDS.

1S41. Let all the kitchen utensils used in the preparation of invalids’
cookery he delicately and scrupulously clean ; if this is not the case, a
disagreeable flavour may be imparted to the preparation, which flavour
may disgust, and prevent the patient from partaking of the refreshment
when brought to him or her.

1842. For invalids, never make a large quantity of one thing, as they seldom
require much at a time ; and it is desirable that variety be provided for them.

1843. Always have something in readiness ; a little beef tea, nicely made
and nicely skimmed, a few spoonfuls of jelly, &c. &c. , that it may be admi-
nistered as soon almost as the invalid wishes for it. If obliged to wait a long
time, the patient loses the desire to eat, and often turns against the food when
brought to him or her.

1844. In sending dishes or preparations up to invalids, let everything look
as tempting as possible. Have a clean tray-cloth laid smoothly over the tray ;
let the spoons, tumblers, cups and saucers, &c., be very clean and bright.
Gruel served in a tumbler is more appetizing than when served in a basin or
cup and saucer.

1845. As milk is an important article of food for the sick, in warm weather
lot it he kept on ice, to prevent its turning sour. Many other delicacies may
also be preserved good in the same manner for some little time.

1846. If the patient be allowed to eat vegetables, never send them up
undercooked, or half raw ; and let a small quantity only be temptingly-
arranged on a dish. This rule will apply to every preparation, as an invalid
is much more likely to enjoy his food if small delicate pieces are served
to him.

1847. Never leave food about a sick room ; if the patient cannot eat it when
brought to him, take it away, and bring it to him in an hour or two’s
time. Miss Nightingale says, “ To leave the patient’-s untasted food by his
side, from meal to meal, in hopes that he will eat it in the interval, is simply

894

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

to prevent him from taking any food at all. She says, “ I have known patients
literally incapacitated from taking one article of food after another by this
piece of ignorance. Let the food come at the right time, and be taken away,
eaten or uneaten, at the right time, but never let a patient have ‘something
always standing’ by him, if you don’t wish to disgust him of everything.”

1848. Never serve beef tea or broth with the smallest particle of fat or grease
on the surface. It is better, after making either of those, to allow them to get
perfectly cold, when all the fat may be easily removed ; then warm up as much
as may be required. Two or three pieces of clean whity-bruwn paper laid on
the broth will absorb any greasy particles that may bo floating at the top, as
the grease will cling to the paper.

1849. Roast mutton, chickens, rabbits, calves’ feet or head, game, fish
{simply dressed), and simple puddings, are all light food, and easily digested.
Of course, these things are only partaken of, supposing the patient is recovering.

1850. A mutton chop, nicely cut, trimmed, and broiled to a turn, is a dish
to be recommended for invalids ; but it must not be served with all the fat at
the end, nor must it be too thickly cut. Let it be cooked over a fire free
from smoke, and sent up with the gravy in it, between two very hot plates.
Nothing is more disagreeable to an invalid than smoked food.

1851. In making toast-and-water, never blacken the bread, but toast it
only a nice brown. Never leave toast-and-water to make until the moment it
is required, as it cannot then be properly prepared,- — at least, the patient will
be obliged to drink it warm, which is anything but agreeable.

1852. In boiling eggs for invalids, let the white be just set ; if boiled hard,
they will be likely to disagree with the patient.

1853. In Miss Nightingale’s admirable “ Notes on Nursing,” a book that no
mother or nurse should be without, she says, — “ You cannot be too careful as
to quality in sick diet. A nurse should never put before a patient milk that
is sour, meat or soup that is turned, an egg that is bad, or vegetables under-
done.” Yet often, she says, she has seen these things brought in to the sick, in
a state perfectly perceptible to every nose or eye except the nurse’s. It is here
that the clever nurse appears, — she will not bring in the peccant article ; but,
not to disappoint the patient, she will whip up something else in a few minutes.
Remember, that sick cookery should half do the work of your poor patient’s
weak digestion.

1854. She goes on to caution nurses, by saying, — “Take care not to spill
into your patient’s saucer ; in other words, tako care that tho outside bottom
rim of his cup shall be quite dry and clean. If, every time he lifts his cup to
his lips, he has to carry the saucer with it, or else to drop tho liquid upon and
to soil his sheet, or bedgown, or pillow, or, if he is sitting up, his dress, you
have no idea what a difference this minute want of care on your part make* to
his comfort, and even to his willingness for food.”

RECIPES

CHAPTER XXXIX

TO MAKE ARROWROOT.

1855. Ingredients. — Two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 3 tablespoon-
fuls of cold water, | pint of boiling water.

Mode. — Mix the arrowroot smoothly in a basin with the cold water,
then pour on it the boiling water, stirring all the time. The water
must be boiling at the time it is poured on the mixture, or it will not
thicken ; if mixed with hot water only, it must be put into a clean
saucepan, and boiled until it thickens ; but this is more trouble, and
quite unnecessary if the water is boiling at first. Put the arrowroot
into a tumbler, sweeten it with lump sugar, and flavour it with grated
nutmeg or cinnamon, or a piece of lemon-peel, or, when allowed,
3 tablespoonfuls of port or sherry. As arrowroot is in itself flavour-
less and insipid, it is almost necessary to add the wine to make it
palatable. Arrowroot made with milk instead of water is far nicer,
but is not so easily digested. It should be mixed in the same manner,
with 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water, the boiling milk then poured on
it, and well stirred. When made in this manner, no wine should be
added, but merely sugar, and a little grated nutmeg or lemon-peel.

Time. — If obliged to be boiled, 2 minutes. Average cost, 2d. per pint.

Sufficient to make t pint of arrowroot.

Miss Nightingale says, in her "Notes on Nursing,” that arrowroot is a grand
dependence of the nurse. As a vehicle for wine, and as a restorative quickly prepared,
it is all very well, but it is nothing but starch and water; flour is both more nutritive
and less liable to ferment, and is preferable wherever it can be used.

BARlEY GRUEL.

1856. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of Scotch or pearl barley, * pint of port
wine, the rind of 1 lemon, 1 quart and i pint of water, sugar to taste.

Mode. — After well washing the barley, boil it in k pint of water for
i hour ; then pour this water away ; put to the barley the quart of
fresh boiling water, and let it boil until the liquid is reduced to half ;
then strain it off. Add the wine, sugar, and lemon-peel ; simmer for

896

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

o minutes, and put it away in a clean jug. It can be warmed from
time to time, as required.

Time— To be boiled until reduced to half. Average cost, Is. 6 d.

Sufficient with the wine to make l£ pint of gruel.

TO MAKE BARLEY-WATER.

1857. Ingredients. — 2 oz. of pearl barley, 2 quarts of boiling
water, 1 pint of cold water.

Mode. — Wash the barley in cold water ; put it into a saucepan with
the above proportion of cold water, and when it .has boiled for about
5 hour, strain off the water, and add the 2 quarts of fresh boiling
water. Boil it until the liquid is reduced one half; strain it, and it
will be ready for use. It may be flavoured with lemon-peel, after
being sweetened, or a small piece may be simmered with the barley.
When the invalid may take it, a little lemon-juice gives this pleasant
drink in illness a very nice flavour.

Time. — To boil until the liquid is reduced one half.

Sufficient to make 1 quart of barley-water.

TO MAKE BEEP TEA.

1858. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of lean gravy-beef, 1 quart of water,
1 saltspoonful of salt.

Mode. — Have the meat cut without fat and bone, and choose a nice
fleshy piece. Cut it into small pieces about the size of dice, and put
it into a clean saucepan. Add the water cold to it ; put it on the fire,
and bring it to the boiling-point ; then skim well. Put in the salt
when the water boils, and simmer the beef tea gently from 5 to f hour,
removing any more scum should it appear on the surface. Strain the
tea through a hair sieve, and set it by in a cool place. When wanted
for use, remove every particle of fat from the top ; warm up as much
as may be required, adding, if necessary, a little more salt. This pre-
paration is simple beef tea, and is to be administered to those invalids
to whom flavourings and seasonings are not allowed. When the
patient is very low, use double the quantity of meat to the same pro-
portion of water. Should the invalid be able to take the tea prepared
in a more palatable manner, it is easy to make it so by following the
directions in the next recipe, which is an admirable one for making
savoury beef tea. Beef tea is always better when made the day before
it is wanted, and then warmed up. It is a good plan to put the tea
into a small cup or basin, and to place this basin in a saucepan of
boiling water. When the tea is warm, it is ready to serve.

INVALID COOKERY.

897

Time. — 4 to § hour. Average cost, 6 it. per pint.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 lb. of meat for a pint of good beef tea.

Miss Nightingale says, one of the most common errors among nurses, with respect
to sick diet, is the belief that beef tea is the most nutritive of all articles. She says, “ Just
try and boil down a lb. of beef into beef tea ; evaporate your beef tea, and see what is left
of your beef; you will find that there is barely a teaspoonful of solid nourishment to £ pint
of water in beef tea. Nevertheless, there is a certain reparative quality in it, — we do
not know what, — as there is in tea; but it maybe safely given in almost any inflam-
matory disease, and is as little to be depended upon with the healthy or convalescent,
where much nourishment is required.”

SAVOUBY BEEF TEA.

(Soger’s Recipe.)

1859. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of solid beef, 1 oz. of butter, 1 clove,
2 button onions or 4 a large one, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 quart of
water.

Mode. — Cut the beef into very small dice ; put it into a stewpan
with the butter, clove, onion, and salt ; stir the meat round over the
lire for a few minutes, until it produces a thin gravy ; then add the
water, and let it simmer gently from 4 to f hour, skimming off every
particle of fat. When done, strain it through a sieve, and put it by
in a cool place until required. The same, if wanted quite plain, is
done by merely omitting the vegetables, salt, and clove ; the butter
cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out in skimming.

Time.—\ to f hour. Average cost, 8 d. per pint.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 lb. of beef to make 1 pint of good beef tea.

Note. — The meat left from beef tea may be boiled a little longer, and
pounded, with spices, &c., for potting. It makes a very nice breakfast dish.

Dn. Chbistison snys that “every one will be struck with the readiness with which
certain classes of patients will often take dilutedmeat juice, or beef tea repeatedly, when
they refuse all other kinds of food.” This is particularly remarkable in eases of gastric
fever, in which, he says, little or nothing else besides beef tea, or diluted meat juice, has
been taken for weeks, or even months ; and yet a pint of beef tea contains scarcely J oz.
of anything but water. The result is so striking, that he asks, “ What is its mode of action ?
Not simple nutriment ; J oz. of the most nutritive material cannot nearly replace the
daily wear and tear of the tissue in any circumstances.” Possibly, he says, it belongs to
a new denomination of remedies.

BAKED BEEF TEA.

i860. Ingredients.— 1 lb. of fleshy beef, li pint of water, £ salt-
spoonful of salt.

Mode.— Cut the beef into small square pieces, after trimming off all
the fat, and put it into a baking-jar, with the above proportion of
water and salt ; cover the jar well, place it in a warm, but not hot
oven, and bake for 3 or 4 hours. When the oven is very fierce in the
daytime, it is a good plan to put the jar in at night, and let it remain
till the next morning, when the tea will be done. It should be strained,

3 M

898

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

and put by in a cool place until wanted. It may also be flavoured
with an onion, a clove, and a few sweet herbs, &c., when the stomach
is sufficiently strong; to take these.

Time. — 3 or 4 hours, or to be left in the oven all night.

A verage cost, 6 d. per pint.

Sufficient. — Allow 1 lb. of meat for 1 pint of good beef tea.

BAKED OK STEWED CALF’S FOOT.

1861. Ingredients.— 1 calf’s foot, l pint of milk, l pint of water,
1 blade of mace, the rind of k lemon, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Well clean the foot, and either stew or bake it in the milk-
and-water with the other ingredients from 3 to 4 hours. To enhance
the flavour, an onion and a small quantity of celery may be added, if
approved; i a teacupful of cream, stirred in just before serving, is
also a great improvement to this dish.

Time. — 3 to 4 hours. Average cost, in full season, 9tZ. each.

Sufficient for 1 person. Seasonable from March to October.

CALF’S-FOOT BROTH.

1862. Ingredients. — 1 calf’s foot, 3 pints of water, 1 small lump
of sugar, nutmeg to taste, the yolk of 1 egg, a piece of butter the size
of a nut.

Mode. — Stew the foot in the water, with the lemon-peel, very
gently, until the liquid is half wasted, removing any scum, should it
rise to the surface. Set it by in a basin until quite cold, then take off
every particle of fat. Warm up about 4 pint of the broth, adding the
butter, sugar, and a very small quantity of grated nutmeg ; take it
off the fire for a minute or two, then add the beaten yolk of the egg ;
keep stirring over the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not allow
it to boil again after the egg is added, or it will curdle, and the broth
will be spoiled.

Time. — To be boiled until the liquid is reduced one half.

Average cost, in full season, 9 d. each.

Sufficient to make Is pint of broth.

Seasonable from March to October.

CHICKEN BROTH.

1863. Ingredients. — ^ fowl, or the inferior joints of a whole one;

1 quart of water, 1 blade of mace, s onion, a small bunch of sweet
herbs, salt to taste, 10 peppercorns.

Mode. — An old fowl not suitable for eating may bo converted into
very good broth, or, if a young one be used, the inferior joints may be

INVALID COOKERY.

899

put in tlie hroth, and the best pieces reserved for dressing in some
other manner. Put the fowl into a saucepan, with all the ingre-
dients, and simmer gently for ll hour, carefully skimming the broth
well. When done, strain, and put by in a cool place until wanted ;
then take all the fat off the top, warm up as much as may be re-
quired, and serve. This broth is, of course, only for those invalids
whose stomachs are strong enough to digest it, with a flavouring of
herbs, &c. It may be made in the same manner as beef tea, with water
and salt only ; but the preparation will be but tasteless and insipid.
When the invalid cannot digest this chicken broth with the flavour-
ing, we would recommend plain beef team preference to plain chicken
tea, which it would be without the addition of herbs, onions, &c.

Time. — If hour.

Sufficient to make rather more than 1 pint of broth.

NUTRITIOUS COUPES.

1864. Ingredients. — f oz. of ground coffee, 1 pint of milk.

Mode. — Let the coffee be freshly ground ; put it into a saucepan,
with the milk, which should be made nearly boiling before the coffee
is put in, and boil both together for 3 minutes ; clear it by pouring
some of it into a cup, and then back again, and leave it on the hob
for a few minutes to settle thoroughly. This coffee may be made still
more nutritious by the addition of an egg well beaten, and put into
the coffee-cup.

Time. — 5 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to settle.

Sufficient to make 1 large breakfast-cupful of coffee.

Oue great nurse Miss Nightingale remarks, that “ a great deal too much against tea
is said by wise people, and a great deal too much of tea is given to the sick by foolish
people. When you see the natural and almost universal craving in English sick for their
‘ tea,’ you cannot but feel that Nature knows what she is about. Rut a little tea or
coffee restores them quite as much as a great deal ; and a great deal of tea, and espe-
cially of coffee, impairs the little power of digestion they have. Yet a nurse, because
she sees how one or two cups of tea or coffee restore her patient, thinks that three or
four cups will do twice as much. This is not the case at all ; it is, however, certain that
there is nothing yet discovered which is a substitute to the English patient for his cup
of tea ; he can take it when he can take nothing else, and he often can’t take anything
else, if he has it not. Coffee is a better restorative than tea, but a greater impairer of
the digestion. In making coffee, it is absolutely necessary to buy it in the berry, and
grind it at home ; otherwise, you may reckon upon its containing a certain amount of
chicory, at least. This is not a question of the taste, or of the wholesomeness of chicory ;
it is, that chicory has nothing at all of the properties for which you give coffee, and,
therefore, you may as well not give it.”

THE INVALID’S CUTLET.

1865. Ingredients.— 1 nice cutlet from a loin or neck of mutton,
2 teacupfuls of water, 1 very small stick of celery, pepper and salt to
taste.

Mode— Have the cutlet out from a very nioe loin or neck of

3 m 2

900

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

mutton ; take off all the fat ; put it into a stewpan, with the other
ingredients ; stew very gently indeed for nearly 2 hours, and skim
off every particle of fat that may rise to the surface from time to
time. The celery should be cut into thin slices before it is added to
the meat, and care must be taken not to put in too much of this in-
gredient, or the dish will not be good. If the water is allowed to boil
fast, the cutlet will be hard.

Time. — 2 hours’ very gentle stewing. Average cost, Gel.

Sufficient for 1 person. Seasonable at any time.

EEL BROTH.

1866. Ingredients. — h lb', of eels, a small bunch of sweet herbs,
including parsley ; \ onion, 10 peppercorns, 3 pints of water, 2 cloves,
salt and pepper to taste.

Mode. — After having cleaned and skinned the eel, cut it into small
pieces, and put it into a stewpan, with the other ingredients ; simmer
gently until the liquid is reduced nearly half, carefully removing the
scum as it rises. Strain it through a hair sieve ; put it by in a cool
place, and, when wanted, take off all the fat from the top, warm up
as much as is required, and serve with sippets of toasted bread.
This is a very nutritious broth, and easy of digestion.

Time. — To be simmered until the liquor is reduced to half.

Average cost, 6 cl.

Sufficient to make 1.V pint of broth.

Seasonable from June to March.

EGG WINE.

1867. Ingredients. — 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful and £ glass of cold
water, 1 glass of sherry, sugar and grated nutmeg to taste.

Mode. — Beat the egg, mixing with it a tablespoonfnl of cold water ;
make the wine-and-water hot, but not boiling ; pour it on the egg, stir-
ring all the time. Add sufficient lump sugar to sweeten the mixture, and
a little grated nutmeg ; put all into a very clean saucepan, set it on a
gentle fire, and stir the contents one way until they thicken, but do
not allow them to boil. Serve in a glass with sippets of toasted bread
or qdain crisp biscuits. When the egg is not warmed, the mixture will
be found easier of digestion, but it is not so pleasant a drink.

Sufficient for 1 person.

TO MAKE GRUEL.

1868. Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of llobiusou’s patent groats,
2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1 pint of boiling water.

INVALID COOKER V.

901

Mode. — Mix the prepared groats smoothly with the cold water in a
hasin ; pour over them the boiling water, stirring it all the time. Put
it into a very clean saucepan ; boil the gruel for 10 minutes, keeping it
well stirred ; sweeten to taste, and serve. It may he flavoured with
a small piece of lemon-peel, by boiling it in the gruel, or a little
grated nutmeg may he put in ; but in these matters the taste of the
patient should he consulted. Pour the gruel in a tumbler and serve.
When wine is allowed to the invalid, 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry or
port make this preparation very nice. In cases of colds, the same
quantity of spirits is sometimes added instead of wine.

Time. — 10 minutes.

Sufficient to make a pint of gruel.

INVALID’S JELLY.

1869. Ingredients. — 12 shanks of mutton, 3 quarts of water, a
bunch of sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, 3 blades of mace, 1
onion, 1 lb. of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted brown.

Mode. — Soak the shanks in plenty of water for some hours, and
serub them well ; put them, with the beef and other ingredients, into
a saucepan with the water, and let them simmer very gently for
5 hours. Strain the broth, and, when cold, take off all the fat. It
may be eaten either warmed up or cold as a jelly.

Time. — 5 hours. Average cost , Is.

Sufficient to make from 1 f to 2 pints of jelly.

Seasonable at any time.

LEMONADE FOB INVALIDS.

1870. Ingredients.—-* lemon, lump sugar to taste, 1 pint of boiling
water.

Mode.— Pare off the rind of the lemon thinly ; cut the lemon into
2 or 3 thick slices, and remove as much as possible of the white out-
side pith, and all the pips. Put the slices of lemon, the peel, and lump
sugar into a jug ; pour over the boiling water ; cover it closely, and in
2 hours it will be fit to drink. It should either be strained or poured
ofF from the sediment.

Time. — 2 hours. Average cost, 2d.

Sufficient to make 1 pint of lemonade. Seasonable at any time.

NOTJKISHING- LEMONADE.

1871. Ingredients. — 14 pint of boiling water, the j uice of 4 lemons,
the rinds of 2, 5 pint of sherry, 4 eggs, 6 oz. of loaf sugar.

Mode.— Pare off the lemon-rind thinly, put it into a jug with the

902

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

sugar, and pour over the boiling water. Let it cool, then strain it ;
add the wine, lemon-juice, and eggs, previously well beaten, and also
strained, and the beverage will be ready for use. If thought desirable,
the quantity of sherry and water could be lessened, and milk substi-
tuted for them. To obtain the flavour of the lemon-rind properly, a
few lumps of the sugar should be rubbed over it, until some of the
yellow is absorbed.

Time. — Altogether 1 hour to make it. Average cost, Is. 8 d.

Sufficient to make 2£ pints of lemonade. Seasonable at any time.

TO MAKE MUTTON BROTH.

1872. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of the scrag end of the neck of mutton,
1 onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, £ turnip, 3 pints of water, pepper
and salt to taste.

Mode. — Put the mutton into a stewpan ; pour over the water cold,
and add the other ingredients. When it boils, skim it very carefully,
cover the pan closely, and let it simmer very gently for an hour;
strain it, let it cool, take off all the fat from the surface, and warm
up as much as may be required, adding, if the patient be allowed to
take it, a teaspoonful of minced parsley which has been previously
scalded. Pearl barley or rice are very nice additions to mutton broth,
and should be boiled as long as the other ingredients. When either
of these is added, the broth must not be strained, but merely tho-
roughly skimmed. Plain mutton broth without seasoning is made by
merely boiling the mutton, water, and salt together, straining it,
letting the broth cool, skimming all the fat off, and warming up as
much as is required. This preparation would be very tasteless and
insipid, but likely to agree with very delicate stomachs, whereas the
least addition. of other ingredients would have the contrary effect.

Time. — l hour. Average cost, 7d.

Sufficient to make from l£ to 2 pints of broth.

Seasonable at any time.

Note. — Yeal broth may be made in the same manner ; the knuckle of a leg
or shoulder is tho part usually used for this purpose. It is very good with the
addition of the inferior joints of a fowl, or a fow shank-bones.

MUTTON BROTH, QUICKLY MADE.

1873. Ingredients. — 1 or 2 chops from a neck of mutton, 1 pint of
water, a small bunch of sweet- herbs, j of an onion, pepper and salt
to taste.

Mode. —Cut the meat into small pieces ; put it into a saucepan with
the bones, but no skin or fat ; add the other ingredients ; cover tho

INVALID COOKERY.

903

saucepan, and bring the water quickly to boil. Take the lid off, and
continue the rapid boiling for 20 minutes, skimming it well during
the procees ; strain the broth into a basin ; if there should be any fat
left on the surface, remove it by laying a piece of thin paper on the top :
the greasy particles will adhere to the paper, and so free the prepara-
tion from them. To an invalid nothing is more disagreeable than
broth served with a quantity of fat floating on the top ; to avoid this,
it is always better to allow it to get thoroughly cool, the fat can then
be so easily removed.

Time. — 20 minutes after the water boils. Average cost, 5d.

Sufficient to make h pint of broth. Seasonable at any time.

STEWED BABBITS IE MILK.

1874. Ingeedients. — 2 very young rabbits, not nearly half grown ;
1^ pint of milk, 1 blade of mace, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, a little
salt and cayenne.

Mode. — Mix the flour very smoothly with 4 tablespoonfuls of the
milk, and when this is well mixed, add the remainder. Cut up the
rabbits into joints, put them into a stewpan, with the milk and other
ingredients, and simmer them very gently until quite tender. Stir
the contents from time to time, to keep the milk smooth and prevent
it from burning, i hour will be sufficient for the cooking of this dish.

Time. — 5 hour. Average cost, from Is. to Is. 6 d. each.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 meals. Seasonable from September to February.

KICE-MILK.

1875. Ingeedeents.— 3 tablespoonfuls of rice, 1 quart of milk,
sugar to taste ; when liked, a little grated nutmeg.

Mode— Well wash the rice, put it into a saucepan with the milk,
and simmer gently until the rice is tender, stirring it from time to
time to prevent the milk from burning ; sweeten it, add a little grated
nutmeg, and serve. This dish is also very suitable and wholesome for
children ; it may be flavoured with a little lemon-peel, and a little
finely-minced suet may be boiled with it, -which renders it more
strengthening and more wholesome. Tapioca, semolina, vermicelli,
and macaroni, may all be dressed in the same manner.

Time.— From f to 1 hour. Seasonable at any time.

TO MAKE TOAST-AED-WATER.

1876. Ingeedients. — A slice of bread, 1 quart of boiling water.

Mode.— Cub a slice from a stale loaf (a piece of hard crust is better

than anything else for the purpose), toast it of a nice brown on every

904

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

side, but do not allow it to burn or blacken. Put it into a jug, pour
the boiling water over it, cover it closely, and let it remain until cold.
When strained, it will be ready for use. Toast-and-water should
always be made a short time before it is required, to enable it to get
cold : if drunk in a tepid or lukewarm state, it is an exceedingly
disagreeable beverage. If, as is sometimes the case, this drink is
wanted in a hurry, put the toasted bread into a jug, and only just
cover it with the boiling water ; when this is cool, cold water may be
added in the proportion required, — the toast-and-water strained ; it
will then be ready for use, and is more expeditiously prepared than
by the above method.

TOAST SANDWICHES.

1877. Ingredients. — Thin cold toast, thin slices of bread-and-
butter, pepper and salt to taste.

Mode. — Place a very thin piece of cold toast between 2 slices of
thin bread-and-butter in the form of a sandwich, adding a seasoning
of pepper and salt. This sandwich may be varied by adding a little
pulled meat, or very fine slices of cold meat, to the toast, and in any
of these forms will be found very tempting to the appetite of an
invalid.

1878. Besides the recipes contained in this chapter, there are, in the
previous chapters on cookery, many others suitable for invalids, which it
would he useless to repeat here. Recipes for fish simply dressed, light soups,
plain roast meat, well-dressed vegetables, poultry, simple puddings, jelly,
stewed fruits, &c. &c., all of which dishes may be partaken of by invalids and
convalescents, will be found in preceding chapters.

DINNERS AND DINING.

1879. Man, it has been said, is a dining animal. Creatures of the inferior
races eat and drink ; man only dines. It has also been said that he is a cook-
ing animal ; but some races eat food without cooking it. A Croat captain
said to M. Brillat Savarin, “When, in campaign, we feel hungry, we knock
over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder it with salt, put it under
the saddle, gallop over it for half a mile, and then eat it.” Huntsmen in
Dauphiny, when out shooting, have been known to kill a bird, pluck it, salt
and pepper it, and cook it by carrying it some time in their caps. It is
equally true that some races of men do not dine any more than the tiger or
the vulture. It is not a dinner at which sits the aboriginal Australian, who
gnaws his bone half baro and then flings it behind to his squaw. And the
native of Terra-del-Fuego does not dine when he gets his morsel of red clay.
Dining is the privilege of civilization. The rank which a people occupy in the
grand scale may be measured by their way of taking their meals, as well as
by their way of treating their women. The nation which knows how to dine
has learnt the leading lesson of progress. It implies both the will and the
skill to reduce to order, and surround with idealisms and graces, the more
material conditions of human existence ; and wherever that will and that skill
exist, life cannot be wholly ignoble.

1880. Dinner, being the grand solid meal of the day, is a matter of con-
siderable importance ; and a well-served table is a striking index of human
ingenuity and resource. “Their table,” says Lord Byron, in describing a
dinner-party given by Lord and Lady Amimdeville at Norman Abbey, —

“ Their table was a board to tempt even ghosts
To pass the Styx for more substantial feasts.

I will not dwell upon ragouts or roasts,

Albeit all human history attests
That happiness for man — the hungry sinner ! —

Since Eve ate apples, much depends on dinner.”

And then he goes on to observe upon the curious complexity of the results
produced by human cleverness and application catering for the modifications
which occur in civilized life, one of the simplest of the primal instincts : —

“ The mind is lost in mighty contemplation
Of intellect expended on two courses ;

And indigestion’s grand multiplication
Requires arithmetic beyond my forces.

Who would suppose, from Adam’s simple ration,

That cookery could have call’d forth such resources,

As form a science and a nomenclature
Erom out the commonest demands of nature ? ”

906

MODERN UOUSEUOLD COOKERY.

And wo may well say, Wlio, indeed, would suppose it? The gulf between
tlio Croat, with a steak under his saddle, aud Alexis Soyer getting up a great
dinner at the Reform Club, or even Thackeray’s Mrs. Raymond Gray giving “ a
little dinner ” to Mr. Snob (with one of those famous ‘ ‘ roly-poly puddings ”
of hers), — what a gulf it is !

1881. That Adam’s “ration,” however, was “simple,” is a matter bn which
we have contrary judgments given by the poets. When Raphael paid that
memorable visit to Paradise, — which wo are expressly told by Milton he did
exactly at dinner-time,— Eve seems to have prepared “ a little dinner ’ not
wholly destitute of complexity, aud to have added ice-creams and perfumes.
Nothing can be clearer than tho testimony of the poet on these points : —

“ And Eve within, due at her home prepared
For dinner savoury fruits, of taste to please
True appetite, and not disrelish thirst

Of nectarous draughts between

. . . With dispatchful looks in haste

She turns, on hospitable thoughts intent,

What choice to choose for delicacy best.

What order so contrived as not to mix
Tastes not well join’d, inelegant, but bring
Taste after taste, upheld with kindliest change —

* * * * *

She tempers dulcet creams

then strews the ground

With rose and odours.”

It may bo observed, in passing, that the poets, though they have more to say
about wine than solid food, because the former more directly stimulates the
intellect and the feelings, do not flinch Jrom the subject of eating and drinking.
There is infinite zest in tho above passage from Milton, and even more in the
famous description of a dainty supper, given by Keats in his “ Eve of Saint
Agnes. ” Could Queen Mab herself desire to sit down to anything nicer, both
as to its appointments and serving, and as to its quality, than the collation
served by Porphyro in the lady’s bedroom while she slept ? —

“ There by the bedside, where the faded moon
Made a dim silver twilight, soft he set
A table, and, half-anguish’ d, threw thereon
A cloth of woven crimson, gold, and jet.
*****

While he, from forth the closet, brought a heap
Of candied apple, quince, and plum, and gourd ;

With jellies smoother than the creamy curd,

And lucent syrups tinct with cinnamon ;

Manna and dates, in argosy transferr’d
From Fez ; and spiced dainties, every one,

From silken Samarcand to cedar'd Lebanon.”

But Tennyson has, ventured beyond dates, and quinces, aud syrups, which
may be thought easy to be brought in by a poet. In his idyl of “ Audlcy
Court ” he gives a most appetizing description of a pasty at a pic-nic : —

“ There, on a slope of orchard, Francis laid
A damask napkin wrought with horse and hound ;

Brought out a dusky loaf that smelt of home,

Aud, half cut down, a pasty costly made,

Where quail and pigeon, lark and leveret, lay
Like fossils of the rock, with golden yolks
Imbedded and injellied.”

DINNERS AND DINING.

907

We gladly quote passages like these, to show how eating and drinking may
be surrounded with poetical associations, and how man, using his privilege to
turn any and every repast into a “feast of reason,” with a warm and plentiful
“ flow of soul,” may really count it as not the least of his legitimate prides, that
he is “a dining animal.”

i8Sc. It has been said, indeed, that great men, in general, are great diners.
This, however, can scarcely be true of any great men but men of action ; and,
in that case, it would simply imply that persons of vigorous constitution, who
work hard, eat heartily ; for, of course, a life of action requires a vigorous
constitution, even though there may be much illness, as in such cases as
William III. and our brave General Napier. Of men of thought, it can scarcely
be true that they eat so much, in a general way, though even they eat more
than they are apt to suppose they do ; for, as Mr. Lewes observes, “ nerve-
tissue is very expensive.” Leaving great men of all kinds, however, to get
their own dinners, let us, who are not great, look after ours. Dine we must,
and we may as well dine elegantly as well as wholesomely.

18S3. There are plenty of elegant dinners in modern days, and they were
not wanting in ancient times. It is well known that the dinner-party, or
symposium, was a not unimportant, and not unpoetical, feature in the life of
the sociable, talkative, tasteful Greek. Douglas J errold said that such is the
British humour for dining and giving of dinners, that if London were to be
destroyed by an earthquake, the Londoners would meet at a public dinner to
consider the subject. The Greeks, too, were great diners : their social and
religious polity gave them many chances of being merry and making others
merry on good eating and drinking. Any public or even domestic sacrifice
to one of the gods, was sure to be followed by a dinner-party, the remains of
the slaughtered “ offering ” being seiwed up on the occasion as a pious piece cle
resistance ; and as the different gods, goddesses, and demigods, worshipped
the community in general, or by individuals, were very numerous indeed, and
some very religious people never let a day pass without offering up something
or other, the dinner-parties were countless. A birthday, too, was an excuse for
a dinner ; a birthday, that is, of any person long dead and buried, as well as
of a living person, being a member of the family, or otherwise esteemed.
Dinners were, of course, eaten on all occasions of public rejoicing. Then,
amoug the young people, subscription dinners, very much after the manner
of modern times, were always being got up ; only that they would be eaten
not at an hotel, but probably at the house of one of the heierce. A Greek
dinner-party was a handsome, well-regulated affair. The guests came in
elegantly dressed and crowned with flowers. A slave, approaching each person
as he ontored, took off his sandals and washed his feet. During the repast,
the guests reclined on couches with pillows, among and along which were set
small tables. After the solid meal came the “ symposium ” proper, a scene
of music, merriment, and dancing, the two latter being supplied chiefly by
young girls. There was a chairman, or symposiarch, appointed by the

DOS

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

company to regulate the drinking ; and it was his duty to mix the wine in the
“ mighty bowl.” From this bowl the attendants ladled the liquor into goblets,
and, with the goblets, went round and round the tables, filling the cups of the
guests.

1884. The elegance with which a dinner is served is a matter which depends,
of course, partly upon the means, but still more upon the taste of the master
and mistress of the liouso. It may be observed, in general, that there should
always be flowers on the table, and as they form no item of expense, there is
no reason why they should not be employed every day.

1885. The variety in the dishes which furnish forth a modern dinner-table,
does not necessarily imply anything unwholesome, or anything capricious.
Food that is not well relished cannot be well digested ; and the appetite of the
over-worked man of business, or statesman, or of any dweller in towns, whose
occupations are exciting and exhausting, is jaded, and requires stimulation.
Men and women who are in rude health, and who have plenty of air and exer-
cise, eat the simplest food with relish, and consequently digest it well ; but
those conditions are out of the reach of many men. They must suit their mode
•of dining to their mode of living, if they cannot choose the latter. It is in serving
up food that is at once appetizing and wholesome that the skill of the modem
housewife is severely tasked ; and she has scarcely amore important duty to fulfil.
It is, in fact, her particular vocation, in virtue of which she may be said to hold
the health of the family, and of the friends of the family, in her hands from
day to day. It has been said that “the destiny of nations depends on the
manner in which they are fed and a great gastronomist exclaims, “ Tell me
what kind of food you eat, and I will tell you what kind of man you are.”
The same writer has some sentences of the same kind, which are rather hyper-
bolical, but worth quoting : — “ The pleasures of the table belong to all ages, to
allj'conditions, to all countries, and to all eras ; they mingle with all other
pleasures, and remain, at last, to console us for their departure. The dis-
covery of a new dish confers more happiness upon humanity than the
discovery of a new star.”

1886. The gastronomist from whom we have already quoted, has some apho-
risms and short directions in relation to dinner-parties, which are well deserving
of notice : — “ Let the number of your guests never exceed twelve, so that the
conversation may be general.* Let the temperature of the dining-room be
about 68°. Let the dishes be few in number in the first course, but propor-
tionally good. The order of food is from the most substantial to tho lightest.
The order of drinking wine is from tho mildest to tho most foamy and most
perfumed. To invite a person to your house is to take charge of his happiness
so long as he is beneath your roof. The mistress of the house should always
be certain that tho coffee be excellent ; whilst the master should be answerable
for the quality of his wines and liqueurs.”

* We have seen this varied by saying that the number should never exceed that of the
Muses or fall below that of the Graces.

BILLS OF FARE

J ANTTAKY.

1887.— DINNER, FOR 18 PERSONS.

First Course.

Mock Turtle Soup,
removed by

Cod’s Head and Shoulders.

-M

©"

fed

Vase of
Flowers.

Clear Oxtail Soup,
removed by
Fried Filleted Soles.

Second Course.

Boast Turkey.

Pigeon Pie.

Vase of

OD^

Flowers.

§5*

O V*
© M

Tongue, garnished.

Saddle of Mutton.

Entrees.

Biz de Veau aux

Tomates.

o £

Vase of

4-i
® O

O' o

Flowers.

tfj o

"gj

Poulet a la Marengo.

Third Course.

Pheasants,

removed by

P •

p p

Plum-pudding.

A. ®
o 13

©‘

3 ©

Jelly.

◄

Vase of |

Flowers. £

Jelly.

3 §

w o
©

Snipes,

removed by

Pommes a la Conde.

We have given above the plan of placing the various dishes of the 1st Course,
Entries, 2nd Course, and 3rd Course. Following this will be found bills of
fare for smaller parties ; and it will be readily seen, by studying the above
arrangement of dishes, how to place a less number for the more limited com-
pany. Several menus for dinners d la Jtnsse, are also included in the present
chapter.

910

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKER Y.

1883. — DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (January).

First Course.

Carrot Soup it la Crdcy. Oxtail Soup.

Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Fried Smelts, with Dutch Sauce.

Entrees.

Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise Sauce. Sweetbreads.
Oyster Patties. Fillets of Rabbits.

Second Course.

Roast Turkey. Stewed Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere.

Boiled Ham, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce.

Third Course.

Roast Hare. Teal.

Egg's h la Neige. Yol-au- Vent of Preserved Fruit. 1 Jelly. 1 Cream.

Potatoes a la Mattre d’ HO tel. Grilled Mushrooms.

Dessert and Ices.

18S9.— DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (January).

First Course.

Soup a la Reine.

Whiting's au Gratin. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
Entrees.

Tendrons de Veau. Curried Fowl and Boiled Rice.

Second Course.

Turkey, stuffed with Chestnuts, and Chestnut Sauce.
Boiled Leg of Mutton, English Fashion, with Capers Sauce and
Mashed Turnips.

Third Course.

Woodcocks or Partridges. Widgeon.

Charlotte ii la Vauille. Cabinet Pudding. Orange Jolly. Blancmange.
Artichoke Bottoms. Macaroni, with Parmesan Cheese.

Dessert and Ices.

BILLS 03? PARK.

Oil

1890— DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (January).

First Course.

Mulligatawny Soup.

Brill and Shrimp Sauce. Fried Whitings.

Entrees.

Fricasseed Chicken. Pork Cutlets, with Tomato Sauce.
Second Course.

Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.

Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

Third Course.

Roast Pheasants.

Meringues a la Crime. Compote of Apples. Orange Jelly.
Cheesecakes. Souffld of Rice.

Dessert and Ices.

1891. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).-I.

First Course.

Julienne Soup.

Soles a la Normandie.

Entrees.

Sweetbreads, with Sauce Piquante. Mutton Cutlets, with Mashed Potatoes.

Second Course.

Haunch of V enison.

Boiled Fowls and Bacon, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

Third Course.

Plum-pudding. Custards in Glasses. Apple Tart.

Fondue ii la Brillat Savarin.

Dessert.

912

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1802.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS ( January).-II.

First Course.

Vermicelli Soup.

, Fried Slices of Codfish and Anchovy Sauce. John Dory.

Entrees.

Stewed Rump-steak ti la Jardiniere. Rissoles. Oyster Patties.
Second Course.

Leg of Mutton. Curried Rabbit and Boiled Rice.

Third Course.

Partridges.

Apple Fritters. Tartlets of Greengage Jam. Orange Jelly. Plum-pudding.

Dessert.

1893. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January) -III;

First Com'se.

Pea-soup.

Baked Haddock. Soles a la Cr&me.

Entrees.

Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. Fricasseed Rabbit.

Second Course.

Roast Pork and Apple Sauce. Breast of Veal, Rolled and Stuffed.

V egetables.

Third Course.

Jugged Hare.

Whipped Cream. Blancmange. Mince Pies. Cabinet Pudding.

1891. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January) .-IV.

First Course.

Palestine Soup.

Fried Smelts. Stewed Eels.

Entrees.

Ragotit of Lobster. Broiled Mushrooms. Vol-au- Vent of Chicken.

Second Course.

Sirloin of Beef. Boilod Fowls and Celery Sauce.
Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

Third Course.

Wild Ducks. Charlotte aux Pommes.

Cheesecakes. Transparent Jelly, iulnid with Brandy Cherries.
Blancmango. Nesselrode Pudding.

BILLS OF FARE.

U13

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JANUARY.

1895. Sunday. — 1. Boiled turbot and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast leg
or griskin of pork, apple sauce, brocoli, potatoes. 3. Cabinet pudding, and
damson tart made with preserved damsons.

1896. Monday. — 1. Tko remains of turbot warmed in oyster sauce, pota-
toes. 2. Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam tart, which should have been
made with the pieces of paste left from the damson tart ; baked arrowroot
pudding.

1897. Tuesday. — 1. Boiled neck of mutton, carrots, mashed turnips, suet
dumplings, and caper sauce : the broth should be served first, and a little rice
or pearl barley should be boiled with it along with the meat. 2. Rolled jam
pudding.

1898. Wednesday. — 1 . Roast rolled ribs of beef, greens, potatoes, and horse-
radish sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, cheesecakes.

1899. Thursday.— 1. Vegetable soup (the bones from the ribs of beef should
be boiled down with this soup), cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Pheasants,,
gravy, bread sauce. 3. Macaroni.

1900. Friday. — 1. Fried whitings or soles. 2. Boiled rabbit and onion,

sauce, minced beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings. ■

1901. Saturday. — 1. Rump-steak pudding or pie, greens, and potatoes.
2. Baked custard pudding and stewed apples.

1902. Sunday. — 1. Codfish and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Joint of roast
mutton, either leg, hauuch, or saddle ; brocoli and potatoes, red-currant
jelly. 3. Apple tart and custards, cheese.

1903. Monday. — 1. The remains of codfish picked from the bone, and'
warmed through in the oyster sauce ; if there is no sauce left, order a few
oysters and make a little fresh ; and do not let the fish boil, or it will be
watery. 2. Curried rabbit, with boiled rice served separately, cold mutton,
mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with wine sauce.

1904.. Tuesday. — 1. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter ; bacon garnished with
Brussels sprouts, minced or hashed mutton. 2. Baroness pudding.

1905. Wednesday. — 1. The remains of the fowls cut up into joints and fricas-
seed ; joint of roast pork and apple sauce, and, if liked, sage-and-onion, served
on a dish by itself ; turnips and potatoes. 2. Lemon pudding, either baked
or boiled.

1906/. Thursday. — 1. Cold pork and jugged hare, red-currant jelty, mashed
potatoes. 2. Apple pudding.

I9°7- Friday. — 1. Boiled beef, either the aitchbone or the silver side of the
lound ; carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes : if thoro is a marro w-
bone, servo the marrow on toast at the same time. 2. Rice snowballs.

1908. Saturday. — 1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which beef was boiled
eold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked batter fruit pudding.

3 N

914

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

FEBEUAEY.

1909. — DINNER FOB 18 PERSONS.
First Course. Entries.

Haro Soup,
removed by

Turbot and Oyster Sauce.

Yaso of
Flowers.

Oyster Soup,
removed by

Crimped Cod a la Maitro
d’ 116 tel.

Second Cowse.

s §

to ?

S'.-

-i

Braised Capon.
Boiled Ham, garnished.

Yase of
Flowers.

Pits Cband.
Haunch of Mutton.

* i

oj 3

<s£

lark Pudding.

Vase of
Flowers.

Fricasseed Chicken.

•a

Third Course.

Ducklings,

CT5

removed by

S *

Ice Pudding.

— s

O Coffee Cream.

O J

to Yaso of

^ Flowers.

►©

P J
3 <

<f Blancmange.

s> .

S.3.

Partridges,

3 ~

removed by

Cabinet Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

1910.— DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (February).
First Course.

Soup h, la Reine. Clear Gravy Soup.

Brill and Lobster Sauce. Fried Smolts.

Entrees.

Lobster Rissoles. Beef Palates. Pork Cutlets h. la Soubise.
i Grilled Mushrooms.

Second Course.

Braised Turkey. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli. Vegetables and Salads.

Third Course.

Wild Ducks. Plovers.

Orange Jelly. Clear Jelly. Charlotte Russo. Nesselrode Pudding.
Gftteau de Riz. Sea-kale. Maids of Honour.

Dessert and Ices.

BILLS OF FARE.

915

1911.— DINNER FOB, 10 PERSONS (February).

First Course.

Palestine Soup.

John Dory, with Dutch Sauce. Red Mullot, with Sauce G6noi.sc. i

Entrees.

Sweetbread Cutlets, with Poivrade Sauce. Fowl au Bdehamel.
Second. Course.

Roast Saddle of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Oysters.

Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

Third Course.

Guinea-Fowls. Ducklings.

Pain de Rhubarb. Orange Jolly. Strawberry Cream. Cheesecakes.
Almond Pudding. Fig Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

1912.— DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (February).

First Course.

Mock Turtle Soup.

Fillets of Turbot a la Creme. Fried Filleted Soles and Anchovy Sauce.

Entrees.

Larded Fillets of Rabbits. Tendrons de V eau with Puide of Tomatoes.
Second Course.

Stewed Rump of Beef h la Jardiniere. Roast Fowls. Boiled Ham.

Third Course.

Roast Pigeons or Larks.

Rhubarb Tartlets. Meringues. Clear J elly. Cream. Ice Pudding. Souffld,

Dessert and Ices.

1913.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).-I.
First Course.

Rice Soup. ' >

Red Mullet, with Gdnoise Sauce. Fried Smelts.

Entrees.

Fowl Pudding. Sweetbreads. ,

Second Course.

Roast Turkey and Sausages. Boiled Leg of Pork. Pease Pudding.

Third Course.

Lemon Jellj". Charlotte ala Vanille. Maids of 'Honour.
Plum-pudding, removed by Ice Pudding.

Dessert.
3 N 2

PIC MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1911.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).— II.

First Course.

Spring Soup.

Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.

Entrees.

Fricasseed Rabbit. Oyster Patties.

Second Course.

Boiled Round of Beef and Marrow-bones.

Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses and rolled Bacon. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Marrow Pudding. Cheesecakes. Tartlets of Greengage Jam.
Lemon Cream. Rhubarb Tart.

Dessert.

1915-DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).— III.
First Course.

Vermicelli Soup.

Fried Whitings. Stewed Eols.

Entrees.

Poulet a la Marengo. Breast of Veal stuffed and rolled.
Second Course.

Roast Leg of Pdrk and Apple Sauce. Boiled Capon and Oysters.
Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli.

Third Course.

Wild Ducks. Lobster Salad. Charlotte aux Pommes. Pain de Rhubarb.
Vanilla Cream. Orange Jelly.

Dessert.

1916.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February). -IV.

First Course.

Ox-tail Soup.

Cod a la Crfimc. Fried Soles.

Entrees.

Lark Pudding. Fowl Scollops.

Second Course.

Roast Leg of Mutton. Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Pigeon Pie.
Small Ham, boiled and garnished. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Game, when liked. Tartlets of Raspberry Jam. Vol-au-Vent of Rhubarb
Swiss Cream. Cabinet Pudding.

Brocoli and Sea-kale.

Dessert.

EILLS OP FAKE.

917

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR FEBRUARY

1917. Sunday. — 1. Ox-tail soup. 2 Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli,
and potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, apple tart. Cheese.

1918. Monday. — 1. Fried soles, plain melted butter, and potatoes. 2. Cold
roast beef, mashed potatoes. 3. The remains of plum-pudding cut in slices,
warmed, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over it. Cheese.

1919. Tuesday. — 1. The remains of ox-tail soup from Sunday. 2. Pork
cutlets with tomato sauce ; hashed beef. 3. Rolled jam pudding. Cheese.

1920. Wednesday. — 1. Boiled haddock and plain melted butter. 2. Rump-
steak pudding, potatoes, greens. 3. Araowroot, blancmange, garnished
with jam.

1921. Thursday. — 1. Boiled leg of pork, greens, potatoes, pease pudding.
2. Apple fritters, sweet macaroni.

1922. Friday. — 1. Pea-soup made with liquor that the pork was boiled in.
2. Cold pork, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked rice pudding.

1923. Saturday. — 1. Broiled herrings and mustard saVice. 2. Haricot
mutton. 3. Macaroni, either served as a sweet pudding or with cheese.

1924. Sunday. — 1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton and caper sauce,
mashed turnips, roast fowls, and bacon. 3. Damson tart made with bottled
fruit,' ratafia pudding.

1923. Monday. — 1. The remainder of fowl curried and served with rice ;
rump-steaks and oyster sauce, cold mutton. 2. Rolled jam pudding.

1926. Tuesday. — 1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was
boiled in on Sunday. 2. Roast sirloin of beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli,
and potatoes. 3. Cheese.

1927. Wednesday. — 1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and
mashed potatoes : if there is any cold boiled mutton left, cut it into neat slices
and warm it in a little caper sauce. 3. Apple tart.

1928. Thursday.— 1. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, stewed beef and vege-
tables, made with the remains of cold beef and bones. 2. Macaroni.

1929. Friday. — 1. Roast leg of pork, sage and onions and apple sauce ;
greens and potatoes. 2. Spinach and poached eggs instead of pudding.
Cheese and water-cresses.

1930. Saturday. — 1. Rumpsteak-and-kidney pudding, cold pork and mashed
potatoes. 2. Baked rice pudding.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

913

MARCH.

1931.— DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

First Course. Entries.

Turtle or MockTurtle Soup,

removed by

• '

Salmon and dressed

Cucumber.

Vase of

Flowers.

<ef-

Spring Soup,

removed by

Boiled Turbot and Lobster

r~i

Sauce.

Second Course.

Fricasseed Chicken.

Vase of
Flowers.

larded Sweetbreads.

2«

Third Course.

Fore-quarter of Lamb.

Guinea-Fowls, larded, •?

n 2.

Braised Capon.

£2.

0 0

FS-

removed by * •£

Cabinet Pudding. Is ^

,~i

Wine Jelly.

£ a>

3 &

m H3
p-o

Vase of
Flowers.

.3 n

Vase of ,-SS

Flowers. £ =
0 —

* c

Boast Fowls.

-L

Italian Cream.

►3?

Ducklings,

Bump of Beef a la
Jardiniere.

removed by jas

• O
P

Nesselrode Pudding. 0 0

Dessert and lees.

1932.— DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (March).

First Course.

White Soup. Clear Gravy Soup.

Boiled Salmon, Shrimp Sauce, and dressed Cucumber.

Baked Mullets in paper cases.

Entrees.

Filet tie Bccuf and Spanish Sauce. Larded Sweetbreads. Rissoles.
Chicken Patties.

Second Course.

Roast Fillet of Veal and BCchamel Sauce. Boiled Leg of Lamb.
Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses.

Boiled Ham, garnished with Carrots and mashed Turnips.
Vegetables — Sea-kale, Spinach, or BrocolL

Third Course.

Two Ducklings. Guinea-Fowl, larded.

Orange Jelly. Charlotte Russe. Coffee Cream. Ice Pudding.
Macaroni with Parmesan Chocse. Spinach, garnished with Croiiwus.

Dessert and Ices.

BILLS or FAKE.

9] 9

1933;— DINNER EOR io PERSONS (March).

First Course.

Macaroni Soup.

Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce, Salmon Cutlets.

Entrees.

Comp8te of Pigeons. Glutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
Second Course.

Boast Lamb. Boiled Half Calf s Head, Tongue, and Brains.
Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with spoonfuls of Spinach. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Ducklings.

Plum-pudding. Ginger Cream. Trifle. Rhubarb Tart. Cheesecakes.
Fondues, in cases.

Dessert and Ices.

1934. — DINNER EOR 8 PERSONS (March).

First Course.

Calf’s-Head Soup,

. Brill and Shrimp Sauce. Broiled Mackerel a la Maltre d'HCtel.

Entrees.

Lobster Cutlets. Calf’s Liver and Bacon, aux fines herbes.

Second Course.

Boast Loin of Veal. Two Boiled Fowls a la Bechamel. Boiled Knuckle of Ham.
Vegetables — Spinach or Brocoli.

Third Course.

Wild Ducks.

Apple Custards. Blancmange. Lemon Jelly. Jam Sandwiches.

Ice Pudding. Potatoes h la Maltre d’H6tel.

Dessert and Ices.

1935. — DINNER EOR 6 PERSONS (March).— I.
En-st Course.

Vermicelli Soup.

Soles a la Crfirne.

Entrees.

Veal Cutlets. Small Vols-au-Vent.

Second Course.

Small Saddle of Mutton. Half Calfs Head.

Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.

Third Course.

Cabinet Pudding. Orange Jelly. Custards, in glasses.
Rhubarb Tart. Lobster Salad.

Dessert.

V20

MODERN HOUSEHOLD C00KER7.

1936— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).-II.

First Course.

Julienne Soup.

Baked Mullets.

Entrees.

Chicken Cutlets. Oyster Patties.

Second Course.

Roast Lamb and Mint Sauce. Boiled Leg of Pork.

Pease Pudding. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Ducklings.

Swiss Cream. Lemon Jelly. Cheesecakes. Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni.

Dessert.

1937. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March) -III.

First Course.

Oyster Soup.

Boiled Salmon and dressed Cucumber.

Entrees.

Rissoles. Fricasseed Chicken.

Second Course. /

BoiledLeg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. RoastFowls, garnished withWator-cresses.

Vegetables.

Third Course.

Charlotte aux Pommes. Orange Jelly. Lemon Cream.

Souffld of Arrowroot. Sea-kale.

Dessert.

1938. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).-IV.
First Course.

Ox-tail Soup.

Boiled Mackerel.

Entrees.

Stewed Mutton Kidneys. Minced V eal and Oysters.
Second Course.

Stewed Shoulder of Veal. Roast Ribs of Beef and Horseradish Sauce.

Vegetables.

Third Course.

Ducklings.

Tartlets of Strawberry Jam. Cheesecakes. G&teau do Ri*.

' Carrot Pudding. Sea-kale.

Dessert.

BILLS OF FAKE.

021

PLAIN FAMILY DINNEBS FOE MABCH.

1939. Sunday. — 1. Boiled 1 calf’s head, piclded pork, the tongue on a
small dish with the brains round it ; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes.
2. Plum tart made with bottled fruit, baked custard pudding. Baroness
pudding.

1940. Monday. — 1. Boast shoulder of mutton and onion sauce, brocoli,
baked potatoes. 2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed, and served with
sugar spriuklod over. Cheesecakes.

1941. Tuesdhy. — 1. Mock turtle soup, made with liquor that calf’s head was
boiled in, and the pieces of head. 2. Hashed mutton, rump-steaks and oyster
sauce. 3. Boiled plum-pudding.

1942. Wednesday.— 1. Fried whitings, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Boiled
beef, suet dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow-bones. 3. Arrowroot blanc-
mange, and stewod rhubarb.

1943. Thursday. — 1. Pea-soup made from liquor that beef was boiled in.
2. Stewed rump-steak, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Boiled jam pudding.

1944. Friday. — 1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Boast loin of
mutton, brocoli, potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. Bice pudding.

1945. Saturday. — 1. Bump-steak pie, haricot mutton made with remains of
cold loin. 2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding.

1946. Sunday. — 1. Boast fillet of veal, boiled ham, spinach and potatoes.
2. Bhubarb tart, custards in glasses, bread-and-butter pudding.

1947. Monday. — 1. Baked soles, potatoes. 2. Minced veal and rump-steak
pie. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with the remains of cutsards poured round
them ; marmalade tartlets.

1948. Tuesday. — 1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton, mashed turnips,
suet dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, veal rissoles made with remains of
fillet of veal. , 3. Cheese.

1949. Wednesday.— 1. Stewed mullets. 2. Boast fowls, bacon, gravy, and
bread sauce, mutton pudding, made with a few slices of the cold meat and
the addition of two kidneys. 3. Baked lemon pudding.

1950. Thursday. — 1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton
was boiled in, and mixed with the remains of gravy soup. 2. Boast ribs of
beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, brocoli and potatoes. 3. Apple
pudding or macaroni.

1951. Friday.— 1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Cold beef,
mashed potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with bottled fruit.

1952. Saturday.— 1. Bumpsteak-and-kidney pudding, broiled beef-bones,
greens and potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with pieces of paste from plum
tart, baked custard pudding.

D22

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

APRIL.

1953.-DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

First Course. Enlre.es.

Spring Soup,
g removed by

i? Salmon and Lobster Sauce.

Vase of
Flowers.

Soles a la Creme.

'TS

‘u

Second Course.

Boast Bibs of Lamb.

Larded Capon.

*-*3

Vase of

Flowers.

Spring Chickens.

Braised Turkey.

t-l

Lamb Cutlets and
Asparagus Peas.

Vase of
Flowers.

Grenadines do Venn.

Third Course.

g V

~.o

r s'

Ducklings,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.

Charlotte jV

S a la Parisienne. -g
§ ^

2. Vase of g,

c Flowers. g

e S

.s
« -•
■8 S

-sv-1

Baspberry Cream.
Nesselrode Pudding.

5 -a

o °

Dessert and Ices.

1954— DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (April).
First Course.

Soup a. la Reine. Julienne Soup.

Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Slices of Salmon it la Gendvdse.

Entrees.

Croquettes of Leveret. Fricandeau de Veau.
Yol-au-Yent. Stewed Mushrooms.

Second Course.

Fore-quarter of Lamb. Saddle of Mutton. Roiled Chickens and Asparagus Peas.
Boiled Tongue garnished with Tufts of Brocoli. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Ducklings. Larded Guinea-Fowls. Charlotte h, la Parisienne. Orange Jelly.
Meringues. Ratafia Ice Pudding. Lobster Salad. Sea-kale.

Dessert and Ices.

BILLS OF FAKE.

023

1055.— DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (April).

First Course.

Gravy Soup.

Salmon and Dressed Cucumber. Shrimp Sauce. Fillets of Wliitings.

Entrees.

Lobster Cutlets. Chicken Patties.

Second Course.

Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb. Ham, garnished with Brocoli.

Vegetables.

Third Course.

Ducklings.

Comp8te of Rhubarb. Custards. Vanilla Cream. Orange Jelly.
Cabinet Pudding. Ice Pudding.

Dessert.

1950.— DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (April).

First Course.

, Spring Soup.

Slices of Salmon and Caper Sauce. Fried Filleted Sole^

Entrees.

Chicken Vol-au-Vent. Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
Second Course.

Roast Loin of Veal. Boiled Fowls k l^i BdehameL Tongue. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Guinea-Fowl.

Sea-kale. Artichoke Bottoms. Cabinet Pudding. Blancmange.
Apricot Tartlets. Rice Fritters. Macaroni and Parmesan Cheese.

Dessert.

1957.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April) .-I.

First Course.

Tapioca Soup.

Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce.

Entrees.

Sweetbreads. Oyster Patties. %

Second Course.

Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Capon and White Sauce. ToDgue. Vegetables.

Third Course.

SoufM of Rico. Lemon Cream. Charlotto h la Parisionne. Rhubarb Tart.

Dessert.

924

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1958. — DINNER FOB 6 PERSONS (April).— IL
First Course.

Julienne Soup.

Pried Whitings. Red Mullet.

Entrees.

Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Rissoles.

Second Course.

Roast Ribs of Beef. Neck of Veal h la B&liamel. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Ducklings.

Lemon Pudding. Rhubax-b Tax-t. Custards. Cheesecakes.
Dessert.

1959— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).— Ill,

First Course.

Vermicelli Soup.

Brill and Shi-imp Sauce.

t Entrees.

Fricandeau of Veal. Lobster Cutlets.

Second Course.

Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb. Boiled Chickens. Tongue. Vegetables.

Third Coxxrse.

Goslings.

Sea-kale. Plum-pudding. Whipped Cream.

Compote of Rhubarb. Cheesecakes.

Dessert.

I960. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April). -IV.

First Course.

Ox-tail Soup.

Crimped Salmon.

Entrees.

Croquettes of Chicken. Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce.

, Second Course.

Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Bacon-cheek garnished with Sprouts.

Boiled Capon. Vegetables.

Third Coxirse.

Sea-kale. Lobster Salad. Cabinet Pudding. Ginger Cream.
Raspberry Jam Tartlets. Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni.

Dessert.

BILLS OP PARE.

925

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR APRIL.

1961. Sunday. — 1. Clear gravy soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, sea-kale,
potatoes. 3. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses.

1962. Monday. — 1. Crimped skate and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of
veal and rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked plum-pudding.

1963. Tuesday. — 1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, made from
remains of cold mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked custard pudding.

1964. Wednesday. — 1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Boiled beef, carrots,
suet dumpling's. 3. Lemon pudding.

1965. Thursday. — 1. Pea-soup made with liquor that beef was boiled in.
2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3.
Macaroni.

196 6. Friday. — 1. Bubble-and-squeak, made with remains of cold beef.
Roast shoulder of veal stuffed, spinach, potatoes. 2. Boiled batter pudding
and sweet sauce.

1967. Saturday. — 1. Stewed veal with vegetables, made from the remains
of the shoulder. Broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. Yeast-dump-
lings.

1968. Sunday.— 1. Boiled salmon and dressed cucumber, anchovy sauce.

2. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, spinach, potatoes, mint sauce. 2. Rhubarb
tart, cheesecakes.

1969. Monday. — 1. Curried salmon, made with remains of salmon, dish
of boiled rice. 2. Cold lamb, rumpsteak-and-kidney pudding, potatoes.

3. Spinach and poached eggs.

1970. Tuesday.— 1. Scotch mutton broth with pearl barley. 2. Boiled
neck of mutton, caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. Baked rice-pudding.

1971. Wednesday.— 1. Boiled mackerel and melted butter or fennel sauce,
potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, bacon, and greens. 3. Fig pudding.

1972. Thursday .— 1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli,
potatoes ; veal rolls made from remains of cold veal. 3. Boiled rhubarb
pudding.

1973. Friday.— 1. Irish stow or haricot, made from cold mutton, minced
veal. 2. Half-pay pudding.

1974. Saturday— 1. Rump-steak pie, broiled mutton-chops. 2. Baked
arrowroot pudding.

026

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

M A Y.

1975.— DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

First Course.

Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Salmon and Lobster
Sauce.

*3 ©

W pL

Vase of

■gw

W-*

f=t ?

“ £

Flowers.

°*3

Ox-tail Soup,
removed by
Brill A Shrimp) Sauce.

-Eg

3 -
K.a

Entries.

Lamb Cutlets and

Cucumbers.

fcH

Vase of

Flowers.

Veal Hagout.

Second Course.

Third Course.

Saddle of Lamb.

liaised Pie.

*3
P .

a ©

p £

rt-

Vase of

£ 2

Flowers.

, o ©

'ga

Braised Ham.

Boast Veal.

Goslings,

* removed by
■ College Puddings.

~T3

•3-3

>1 rt-
fS »

Noyeau Jelly. ~ 0

- _ - Is

vase of 33 _g

tdo"

Flowers. ,2.2

* c si

Inlaid Jelly,

Ducklings,
removed by
Nesselrode Pudding.

Dessert and lees.

1976. — DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (May).

First Course.

White Soup. Asparagus Soup.

Salmon Cutlets. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.

Entrees.

Chicken Vol-au-Yent. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Fricandeau of VcaL

Stewed Mushrooms.

Second Course.

Boast Lamb. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled and Boast Fowls. V cgelables.

Third Course.

Ducklings. Goslings.

Charlotte Busso. Vanilla Cream. Gooseberry Tnrt. Custards.
Cheesecakes. Cabinet Pudding and Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

BILL3 OF FARE.

927

1977. — Dill WEE FOB, 10 PERSONS (May).

First Course.

Spring Soup.

Salmon <\ la Gendvdse. Red Mullet.

Entrees.

Chicken Vol-au-Vent. Calf’s Liver and Bacon aux Fines Herbes.
Second Course.

Saddle of Mutton. Half Calf’s Head, Tongue, and Brains. Braised Ham.

Asparagus.

Third Course.

Roast Pigeons. Ducklings.

Sponge-cake Pudding. Charlotte h la Vanille. Gooseberry Tart. Cream.
Cheesecakes. Apricot-jam Tart.

Dessert and Ices.

1978. — DINNER FOB 8 PERSONS (May).

First Course.

Julienne Soup.

Brill and Lobster Sauce. Fried Fillets of Mackerel.

Entrees.

Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Lobster Patties.

Second Course.

Roast Fillet of Yeal. Boiled Leg of Lamb. Asparagus.

Third Course.

Ducklings.

Gooseberry Tart. Custards. Fancy Pastry. Souffld ,
Dessert and Ices.

1979.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).-L
First Course.

Vermicelli Soup.

Boiled Salmon and Anchovy Sauce.

Entrees.

Fillets of Beef and Tomato Sauce. Sweetbreads.

Second Course.

Roast Lamb. Boiled Capon. Asparagus.

Third Course.

Ducklings. «

Cabinet Pudding. CompOte of Gooseberries. Custards in Glasses.
Blancmange. Lemon Tartlets. Fondue.

Dessert.

328

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

1980. — DINNER FOE. 6 PEBSONS (May).— EL
First Course.

Macaroni Soup.

Boiled Mackerel h la Maltro d’ HO tel. Fried Smelts.

Entrees.

Scollops of Fowl Lobster Pudding.

Second Course.

Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach.

Roast Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Roast Leveret. Salad.

Souffle of Rice. Rataakins. Strawberry-j am Tartlets. Orange Jelly.

Dessert.

1991.— DEN-NEB FOB 0 PEBSONS (May). -III.

First Course.

Julienne Soup.

Trout with Dutch Sauce. Salmon Cutlets.

Entrees.

Lamb Cutlets and Mushrooms. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.
Second Course.

Roast Lamb. Calf’s Head h la Tortue. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Spring Chickens.

Iced Pudding. Vanilla Cream. Clear Jelly. Tartlets. Cheesecakes.

Dessert.

1982. — DINNEB FOB 6 PEBSONS (May).— IV.

First Course.

Soup a la Reine.

Crimped Trout and Lobster Sauce. Baked Whitings aux Fines Hcrbes.

Entrees.

Braised Mutton Cutlets and Cucumbers. Stewod Pigeons.
Second Course.

Roast Fillet of Veal. Bacon-cheek and Greens.

Fillet of Beef a la Jardiniere.

Third Course.

Ducklings.

Souffld h la Vanillo. CompOte of Oranges. Meringues.
Gooseberry Tart. Fondue.

Dessert.

BILLS OF FARE.

929

PLAII-T FAMILY DIITHEEIS FOR MAY.

1983. Sunday. — 1. Vegetables soup. 2. Saddle of mutton, asparagus and
potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards.

19S4. Monday. — 1. Fried whitings, anchovy sauce. 2. Cold mutton,
mashed potatoes, stewed veal. 3. Fig pudding. ,

1985. Tuesday.— 1. Haricot mutton, made from remains of cold mutton,
rump-steak pic. 2. Macaroni.

19S6. Wednesday. — 1. Roast loin of veal and spinach, boiled bacon^
mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Gooseberry pudding and cream.

1987. Thursday. — 1. Spring soup. 2. Roast leg of lamb, mint sauce,
spinach, curried veal and rice. 3. Lemon pudding.

1988. Friday. — 1. Boiled mackerel and parslcy-and-butter. 2. Stewed
rump-steak, cold lamb and salad. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.

1989. Saturday. — 1. Vermicelli. 2. Rump-steak pudding, lamb outlets,
and cucumbers. 3. Macaroni.

1990. Sunday. — 1. Boiled salmon and lobster or caper sauce. 2. Roast
lamb, mint sauce, asparagus, potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, gooseberry tart.

1991. Monday. — 1. Salmon warmed in remains of lobster sauce and gar-
nished with crohtons. 2. Stewed knuckle of veal and rice, cold lamb and
dressed cucumber. 3. Slices of pudding warmed, and served with sugar
sprinkled over. Baked rice pudding.

199:. Tuesday. — 1. Roast ribs of beef, horseradish sauce, Yorkshire pudding-,
spinach and potatoes. 2. Boiled lemon pudding.

1993. Wednesday. — 1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and dressed
cucumber or salad, veal cutlets and bacon. 3. Baked plum-pudding.

1994. Thursday.—!. Spring soup. 2. Calf’s liver and bacon, broiled beef-
bones, spinach and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart.

1995.. Friday. — 1. Roast shoulder of mutton, baked potatoes, onion sauce,
spinach. 2. Currant dumplings.

1996. Saturday.— 1. Broiled mackerel, fennel sauce or plain melted butter.
2. Rump-steak pie, hashod mutton, vegetables. 3. Baked arrowroot pudding.

930

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

JUNE.

1907.— DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.

First Course.

Asparagus Soup,
removed by
Crimped Salmon.

Yase of

Flowers.

Yermicelli Soup,

removed by

Whitebait.

Entrees.

Lamb Outlets and

Peas.

2 £

Yase of

Flowers.

n t-

CH,

g-s

larded Sweetbreads.

Oo
cr ra

C 5

Second Course.

Saddle of Lamb.
Tongue.

Yase of
Flowers.

Ham.

Boded Calf’s Head.

■■a

Third Course.

c-o*

a «

c a>
ts a

Q C Q

1 1

leveret,
removed by
Ice Pudding.

Wine Jelly.

Yase of
Flowers.

Blancmange.

Goslings,
removed by
Fondues, in cases.

0.2

Dessert and Ices.

1998.— DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (June).

First Course.

Green-Pea Soup. Rice Soup.

Salmon and Lobster Sauce’. Trout & la Gendvdse. Whitebait.

Entrees.

Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Fricasseed Chicken. Stewed Veal and Peas.

Lobster Rissoles.

Second Course.

Roast Quarter of Lamb and Spinach. Filet do Boeuf it la Jardinibre.
Boiled Fowls. Braised Shoulder of Lamb. Tongue. V egotables.

Third Course.

Goslings. Ducklings. .

Nesselrode Pudding. Charlotte h la Parisienno. Gooseberry Tartlets.
Strawberry Cream. Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. Custards.

Dessert and Ices.

BILLS or FARE.

931

1999.— DINNER FOE 10 PERSONS (June).

First Course.

Julienne Soup.

Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter. Red Mullet.

Entrees.

Stewed Breast of Veal and Peas. Mutton Cutlets h la Maintenon.
Second Course.

Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb,, garnished with young Carrots. -
Boiled Bacon-cheek. V egetables.

Third Course.

Roast Ducks. Leveret.

Gooseberry Tart. Strawberry Cream. Strawberry Tartlets. Meringues.
Cabinet Pudding-. Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

2000.— DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (June).

First Course.

Vermicelli Soup.

Trout h la Gen6v£se. Salmon Cutlets.

Entrees.

Lamb Cutlets and Peas. Fricasseed Chicken.

Second Course.

Roast Ribs of Beef. ' Half Calf’s Head, Tongue, and Brains. Boiled Ham.

Vegetables.

Third Course.

Roast Ducks.

CompOte of Gooseberries. Strawberry Jelly. Pastry. Iced Pudding.
Cauliflower with Cream Sauce.

Dessert and Ices.

2001.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (June).— I.

First Course.

Spring Soup.

Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce.

Entrees.

Voal Cutlets and Endive. Ragodt of Duck and Green Peas.

Second Course.

Roast Loin of Veal. Boiled Lsg of Lamb and White Sauce.

Tongue, garnished. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Strawberry Cream. Gooseberry Tartlets. Almond Pudding. Lobster Salad:

Dessert.

3 o 2

932

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

2002.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (Juno).— II.

Eirst Course.

. Calf’s-Head Soup.

Mackerel & la Maltro d’HOtel. Whitebait.

, , Entrees.

Chicken Cutlets. Curried Lobster,

Second Course.

Foro-quartcr of Lamb and Salad. Stewed Beef k la Jardiniere. Vegetables

Third Course.

Goslings.

Green-Currant Tart. Custards, in glasses. Strawberry Blancmange.
Souffld of Rice.

Dessert.

2003. — DINNER FOR 0 PERSONS (June).-III.

First Course.

Green-Pea Soup.

Baked Soles aux fines herbes. Stewed Trout.

Entrees.

, Calf’s Liver and Bacon. Rissoles.

Second Course.

Roast Saddle of Lamb and Salad. Calf's Head h. la Tortue. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Roast Ducks.

Vol-au-Vent of Strawberries and Cream. Strawberry Tartlets.
Lemon Blancmange. Baked Gooseberry Pudding.

Dessert.

2001,-DINNER FOR 0 PERSONS (Juno).-IV.

First Course.

Spinach Soup.

Soles h. la Creme. Red Mullet.

- —

\ Entrees.

Roast Fillet of Veal. Braised Ham and Spinach.

_____

Second Course.

Boiled Fowls and White Sauce. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Leveret.

Strawberry Jelly. Swiss Cream. Cheesecakes. Iced Pudding.

Dessert.

BILLS OF FAKE.

or>

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JUNE.

2005. Sunday. — 1. Salmon trout and parslcy-and-butter, now potatoes.
2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek and spinach, vegetables. 3. Goose-
berry tart, custards.

2006. Monday. — 1. Light gravy soup. 2. Small meat pie, minced veal,

garnished with rolled bacon, spinach and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant
tart. '

2007. Tuesday. — 1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. 2. Boiled leg of lamb, gar-
nished with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding.

2C08. Wednesday. — 1. Vegetable soup. 2. Calf’s liver and bacon, peas,
hashed lamb from remains of cold joint. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.

2009. Thursday. — 1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas, potatoes.
2. Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice.

2010. Friday. — L Cold beef and salad, lamb outlets and peas. 2. Boiled
gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding.

eon. Saturday. — 1. Rump-steak pudding, broiled beef-bones and cucumber,
vegetables. 2. Bread pudding.

2012. Sunday. — 1. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce, peas, and new
potatoes. 2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets. Fondue.

2013. Monday. — 1. Cold lamb and salad, stowed neck of veal and peas, young
carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond pudding.

2014. Tuesday. — 1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas
and new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding.

2015. Wednesday. — 1. Roast leg of mutton, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2.
Gooseberry and rice pudding.

2016. Thursday. — 1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Sweetbreads,
hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread-and-butter pudding.

2017. Friday.— 1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled beef, young carrots and
new potatoes, suet dumplings. 3. College puddings.

2018. Saturday.— 1. Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb cutlets and green
peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream.

931

IJODEHN HOUSEHOLD COOK Kit Y.

JULY.

2019.-DINNER FOR 18 PER3CNS.
First Course. Entrees.

Green-Pen Soup,
removed by
Salmon and dressed
Cucumber.

Vasa of
Flowers.

Soup a la Eeine,
removed by
Mackerel a la Maitre
d'Hotel.

lamb Cutlets and
Peas.

O -

c o-

U- •

o «

03 Z

- a,

in y.
in

Vase of

o-t

3o
o c

Flowers.

3S3

Chicken Patties.

Second Course.

Third Course.

Hauneh of Venison.

tel

Pigeon Pie.

P-

Vase of

Flowers.

fcfl

•a

Braised Ham.

Saddle of Lamb.

•S

Eeast Docks,
removed by
Vanilla Soulile.

! Flowers.
Strawberry Cr

Green Goose,
removed by
Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

2020.— DINNER EOR 12 PERSONS (July).

First Course.

Soup b, la Jardinifere. Chicken Soup.

Crimped Salmon and Parsley -and-Butter. Trout aux fines lierbes, in cases.

Entrees.

Tendrons de Veau and Peas. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.

Second Course.

Loin of Veal a la Bdchamel. Boast Fore-quavter of Lamb. Salad.
Braised Ham, garnished with Broad Beans. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Boast Ducks. Turkey Poult.

Stewed Poas a la Framyiiso. Lobster Salad. Cherry Tart.
Baspherry-and-Currant Tart. Custards, in glasses. Lemon Creams.
Nesselrodo Pudding. Marrow Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

BILLS OF FARE.

935

2021.— DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (July)

First Course.

Green-Pea Soup.

Salmon and Lobster Sauco. Crimped Perch and Dutch Sauce.
Entrees.

Stewed Yeal and Peas. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.

Second. Course.

Haunch of Venison. Boiled Fowls h la Bechamel. Braised Ham. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Roast Ducks.

Peas a la Frangaise. Lobster Salad. Strawberry Cream. Blancmange.
Cherry Tart. Cheesecakes. Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

2022. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July).-L

First Course.

Soup h la Jardiniere.

Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-B utter. Fillets of Mackerel a la Maitre d’HCtel.

Entrees.

Lobster Cutlets. Beef Palates h la Italienne.

Second Course.

Roast Lamb. Boiled Capon and White Sauce.

Boiled Tongue, garnished with small Vegetable Marrows. Bacon and Beans.

Third Course.

Goslings.

Whipped Strawberry Cream. Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. Meringues.
Cherry Tartlets. Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

2023. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July) .-II.

First Course.

Julienne Soup.

Crimped Salmon and Caper Sauce. Whitebait.

Entrees.

Croquettes h la Reine. Curried Lobster.

Second Course.

Roast Lamb. Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere.

Third Course.

Larded Turkey Poult.

Raspberry Croam. Cherry Tart. Custards, in glasses. Gfiteaux a la Genii vese.

Nesselrode Pudding.

Dessert.

930

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JULY.

1024. Sunday. — 1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter. 2. Roast fillet
of voal, boiled bacon-chock, peas, potatoes. 3. Easpberry-and-currant tart,
baked custard pudding.

2025. Monday. — 1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast fowls garnished with watcr-
cresscs ; gravy, bread sauce ; cold veal and salad. 3. Cherry tart.

2026. Tuesday. — 1. John dory and lobster sauce. 2. Curried fowl with
remains of cold fowls, dish of rice, veal rolls with remains of cold fillet. 3.
Strawberry cream.

2027. Wednesday. — 1. Roast leg of mutton, vegetable marrow, and potatoes,
melted butter. 2. Black-currant pudding.

2028. Thursday. — 1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets and
tomato sauce, hashed mutton, peas, potatoes. 3. Lemon dumplings.

2029. Friday. — 1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings,
peas, potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding.

2030. Saturday. — 1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Rolled
jam pudding.

2031. Sunday. — 1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast lamb, half calf 's head, toDguo
and brains, boiled ham, peas and potatoes. 3. Cherry tart, custards.

2032. Monday. — 1. Hashed calf’s head, cold lamb and salad. 2. Vege-
table marrow and whito sauce, instead of pudding.

2033. Tuesday. — 1. Stewed veal, with peas, young carrots, and potatoes.
Small meat pie. 2. Easpberry-and-currant pudding.

2034. Wednesday. — 1. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and potatoes; the
remains of stewed veal rechauffd. 2. Macaroni served as a sweot pudding.

2035. Thursday. — 1. Slices of salmon and caper sauce. 2. Boiled lcnucklo
of veal, parsley-and-butter, vegetable marrow and potatoes. 3. Black-currant
pudding.

2036. Friday.— 1. Roast shoulder of mutton, onion sauce, peas and potatoes.
2. Cherry tart, baked custard pudding.

2037. Saturday. — 1. Minced mutton, rumpsteak-and-kidaoy pudding.
2. Baked lemon pudding.

BILLS OJ? FARE,

937

AUGUST.

203S.— DINNER POE 13 PERSONS.

First Course.

jMoclc-Turtle Soup,
remoTod by
Broiled Salmon and
Caper Sauce.

JA,

Vase of

Flowers.

Soup a la Julienne,
removed by

Brill and Shrimp Sauce.

Second Course.

Haunch of Venison.

Ham, garnished.

Vase of

hsi

Flowers.

Leveret Fie.

Saddle of Mutton.

En trees.

Frieandeau de Veau

a la Jardiniere.

*2 ©

iS s

c2 Ei

Vase of

, Flowers. .

1 s

ct-

•t

.a CL

Fillets of Ducks

g O

C3 TJ

and Peas.

Third Course.

rot-i

Grouse,

2- c*

removed by

P CO

P'0

Cabinet Pudding.

Fruit Jelly.

« o

Vase of

Flowers.

Yol- au -Vent of

* J

Pears. ,

Larded Peahen,

O o

removed by

5° -i

Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

2039. — DINNEE POE 12 PERSONS (August).
Pirst Course.

Vermicelli Soup. Soup il la Reine.

Boiled Salmon. Pried Flounders. Trout en Matelot.

Entrees.

Stewed Pigeons. Sweetbreads. Ragoftt of Ducks.
Fillets of Chickens and Mushrooms.

Second Course.

Quarter of Lamb. Cotelette de Boeuf h la Jardiniere.

Roast Fowls and Boiled Tongue. Bacon and Beans.

Third Course.

Grouse. Wheatears.

Greengage Tart. Whipped Cream. Vol-au-Vent of Plums. Fruit Jelly.
Iced Pudding. Cabinet Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

938

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

2010. — DINNER FOB, 8 PERSONS (August).

First Course.

Julienne Soup.

Fillets of Turbot and Dutch Sauce. Red Mullet
Entrees.

Riz de Yeau aux Tomates. Fillets of Ducks and Peas.

Second. Course.

Haunch of Venison. Boiled Capon and Oysters. Ham, garnished. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Leveret.

Fruit Jelly. Compflto of Greengages. Plum Tart. Custards, in glasses.

Omelette soufE'ee.

Dessert and Ices.

2011.— DINNER FOR 0 PERSONS (August) —L
First Course.

Macaroni Soup.

Crimped Salmon and Sauce Hollandaise. Fried Fillets of Trout.

Entrees.

Tendrons de Veau and Stewed Peas. Salmi of Grouse.
Second Course.

Roast Loin of Veal. Boiled Bacon, garnished with French Beans.
Stewed Beef h, la J ardiniere. V egotables.

Third Course.

Turkey Poult.

Plum Tart. Custard Pudding. Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
Strawberry Cream. Ratafia Souffle.

Dessert.

2042.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August).— II.
First Course.

Vegetable-Marrow Soup.

Stowed Mullet. Fillets of Salmon and Ravigotte Sauce.
Entrees.

Curried Lobster. Fricandeau de V eau it la J ardiniere.
Second Course.

Roast Saddle of Mutton. Stewed Shoulder of V eal, garnished with
Forcemeat Balls. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Roast Grouse and Bread Sauce.

Vol-au-Vent of Greengages. Fruit Jelly. Raspberry Cream.
Custards. Fig Pudding.

Dessert.

BILLS OF FARE.

939

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR AUGUST.

•204";. Sunday. — 1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Roast quarter of lamb,
mint sauco, French beans and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart,
custard pudding.

on, [ Monday.— 1. Cold lamb and salad, small meat pie, vegetable marrow
and white sauca 2. Lemon dumplings.

2045. Tuesday.— 1. Boiled mackerel. 2. Stewed loin of veal, French
beans and potatoes. 3. Baked raspberry pudding.

2046. Wednesday.— 1. Vegetable soup. 2. Lamb cutlets and French
beans ; the remains of stewed shoulder of veal, mashed vegetable marrow.
3. Black-currant pudding.

2047. Thursday. — 1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, French beans
and potatoes. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding.

2048. Friday. — 1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Cold beef and salad,
lamb cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Cauliflowers and white sauce instead
of pudding.

2049. Saturday. — 1. Stewed beef and vegetables, with remains of cold beef ;
mutton pudding. 2. Macaroni and cheese.

2050. Sunday. — 1. Salmon pudding. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-
cheek garnished with tufts of cauliflowers, F Tench beans and potatoes. 3.
Plum tart, boiled custard pudding.

205 r. Monday. — 1. Baked soles. 2. Cold veal and bacon, salad, mutton
cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Boiled currant pudding.

2052. Tuesday. — 1. Rice soup. 2. Roast fowls and water-cresses, boiled
knuckle of ham, minced veal garnished with crohtons ; vegetables. 3. College
puddings.

2053. Wednesday.— 1. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowl ; dish of
rice, stewed rump-steak and vegetables. 2. Plum tart.

2054. Thursday. — 1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings,
and potatoes. 2. Baked bread pudding.

2055. Friday. — 1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was boiled
in. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber, veal cutlets and tomata sauce. 3.
Fondue.

2056. Saturday. — 1. Bubble-and-squeak, made from remains of cold beef ;
cold veal-and-ham pie, salad. 2. Baked raspberry pudding.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

SEPTEMBER.

2057. — DINMEE POE 18 PEESONS.

First Course. Entries.

Julienne Soup,
removed by

Brill and Shrimp Sauce.

Vase of
Blowers.

Giblet Soup,
removed by

Salmon and Lobster Sauce.

p —
E3 <V

p-ST

-O

Lamb Cutlets and
French Beans.'

Vase of
Flowers.

Sweetbreads and
Toniata Sauce.

ec i
= 1

Second Course.

Saddle of Mutton.

Veal-and-Haiu Pio.

Vase of
Flowers.

Broiled Ham, garnished ^
with Cauliflowers.

Fillet of Veal.

Third Course.

p Partridges,

removed by

S’ Plum-pudding.

“ ^-Compote of Greengages |

Vase of t3

? Flowers. a

f Pastry Sandwiches. §

Grouse & Bread Sauce,
removed bv
Nesselrode Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

2058.— DIBTNEE POE 12 PESSONS (September).
First Course. '

Mock-Turtle Soup. Soup a la Jardinihre.

Salmon and Lobster Sauce. Fried Whitings. Stewed Eels.

Entrees.

Veal Cutlets. Scalloped Oysters. Curried Fowl. Grilled Mushrooms.
Second Course.

Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Calf’s Head a la Bdchamei. Braised Ham.
Roast Fowls aux Crcssons.

Third Course.

Leveret. Grouse.

Cabinet Pudding. Iced Pudding. CompOto of Plums. Damson Tart.
Cream. Fruit Jelly. Prawns. Lobster Salad.

Dessert and Ices.

BILLS OF FARE.

5)41.

2039.— DINNER FOE 8 PERSONS (September).

Eirst Course.

Flemish Soup.

Turbot, garnished with Fried Smelts. Red Mullet and Italian Sauce.

_ Entrees.

Tendrons do Yeau and Truffles. Lamb Cutlets and Sauce Piquante.

Second Course.

Loin of Yeal A la Bechamel. Roast Haunch of Venison. Braised Ham.
Grouse Pie. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Roast Hare.

Plum Tart. "Whipped Cream. Punch Jelly. CompCte of Damsons.
Marrow Pudding.

Dessert.

2060.— DINNER FOE 6 PERSON'S (September).— L
Eirst Course.

Game Soup.

Crimped Skate. Slices of Salmon a la GendvSse.

Entrees.

Fricasseed Sweetbreads. Savoury. Rissoles.

Second Course.

Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. Boiled Leg of Mutton and Caper Sauce.

Vegetables. '

Third Course.

Roast Partridges.

Charlotte Russe. Apricots and Rice. Fruit Jelly. Cabinet Pudding.

Dessert.

2061. -DINNER FOE 6 PERSONS (September) .-II.
Eirst Course.

Thick Gravy Soup.

Fillets of Turbot A la CrGrne. Stewed Eels.

Entrees.

Vol-au-Vent of Lobster. Salmi of Grouse.

Second Course.

Haunch of Venison. Rump of Beef A la Jardinibre.
Hare, boned and larded, with Mushrooms.

Third Course.

Roast Grouse.

Apricot Blancmange. Compote of Peaches. Plum Tart,
Custards. Plum-pudding.

Dessert.

942

MODKIIN HOUSEHOLD OOOKEEY.

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR SEPTEMBER.

2062. Sunday. — 1. Julienne soup. 2. Raast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding,
horseradish sauce, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Greengage pudding,
vanilla cream.

2063. Monday. — 1. Crimped skate and crab sauce. 2. Cold beef and salad,
small veal-and-ham pie. 3. Y egetable marrow and white sauce.

2064. Tuesday. — 1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Boiled fowls, pnrsley-
and-butter ; bacon-cheek, garnished with French beans ; beef rissoles, made
from remains of cold beef. 3. Plum tart and cream.

2065. Wednesday. — 1. Boiled round of beef, carrots, turnips, and suet
dumplings ; marrow on toast. 2. Baked damsons and rice.

2066. Thursday. — 1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was boiled
in. 2. Lamb cutlets and cucumbers, cold beef and salad. 3. Apple pudding.

2067. Friday. — 1. Baked soles. 2. Bubble-and-squeak, made from cold
beef; veal cutlets and rolled bacon. 3. Damson tart.

206S. Saturday. — 1. Irish stew, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. Somer-
setshire dumplings.

2069. Sunday. — 1. Fried filleted soles and anchovy sauce. 2. Boast leg of
mutton, brown onion sauce, French beans, and potatoes ; half calf’s head,
tongue, and brains. 3. Plum tart ; custards, in glasses.

2070. Monday. — 1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Calf’s head a 3a maitro
d’hfitel, from remains of cold head ; boiled brisket of beef and vegetables.
3. Stewed fruit and baked rice pudding.

2071. Tuesday. — 1. Boast fowls and water-cresses ; boiled bacon, garnished
with tufts of cauliflower ; hashed mutton, from remains of mutton of Sunday.
2. Baked plum-pudding.

2072. Wednesday. — 1. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, turnips, potatoes ;
small ham, garnished with French beans. 2. Bakod apple pudding.

2073. Thursday. — 1. Brill and shrimp sauce. 2. Boast hare, gravy, and
red-currant jelly ; mutton cutlets. and mashed potatoes. 3. Scalloped oysters,
instead of pudding.

2074. Friday. — 1. Small roast loin of mutton ; tho remains of hare, jugged ;
vegetable marrow and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.

2073. Saturday. — 1. Rump-steaks, broiled, aud oyster sauco, mashed pota-
toes ; veal-and-ham pie, — the ham maybe cut from that boiled on Wednesday,
if not all eaten cold for breakfast. 2. Lemon pudding.

BILLS OF FARE.

943

OCTOBER.

2076.— DINNER EOR 18

First Course.

PERSONS.

Entrees.

Mock-Turtle Soup,
removed by

Crimped Cod and Oyster

Sauce.

4A>

f=l

Yase of

Flowers.

Julienne Soup,
removed by
John Dory and Dutch
Sauce.

Sweetbreads and Tomata
Sauce.

i-d

Yase of
Flowers.

Fricandeau de Yean and
Celery Sauce.

Second Course.

Roast Saddle of

Mutton.

Grouse Pie.

*rJ

tf 0

c*-

Yase of

|co

Flowers.

I* 'Z

^ tn
>»

•5O

Ham.

Larded Tur.key.

Third Course .

2 S
gs
I c

CO Qj

Pheasants,
removed by
Cabinet Pudding.

Italian Cream, 'j*

Yaso of
Flowers.

Peach Jelly.

Roast Hare,
removed by
Iced Pudding.

® tn

% 1

Dessert and lees.

2077 . — DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (October).
First Course.

Carrot Soup h, la Crdci. Soup it la Reine.

Baked Cod. Stewed Eels.

Entrees.

Riz do Veau and Tomata Sauce. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.

Pork Cutlets and Sauce Robert. Grilled Mushrooms.

Second Course.

Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere. Roast Goose. Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce.
Tongue, garnished. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Grouse. Pheasants.
Quince Jelly. Lemon Cream. Apple Tart.
Nesselrode Pudding. Cabinet Pudding.

Compete of Peaches.
Scalloped Oysters.

Dessert and Ices.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

2078.— DINNER EOB 8 BEESONS (Ootober).

Birst Course.

Calfs-Head Soup.

Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. Stewed Eels.

Entrees.

Stewed Mutton Kidneys. Curried Sweetbreads.

Second Course.

Boiled Leg of Mutton, garnished with Carrots and Turnips. Roast Goose.

Third Course.

Partridges.

Fruit Jelly. Italian Cream. Vol-au- Vent of Pears. Apple Tart.
Cabinet Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

2079.— DINNEB EOB 6 BEESONS (October).-L
First Course.

Hare Soup.

Broiled Cod it, la Maltro d’HOtel. Haddocks and Egg Sauce.
Entrees.

Veal Cutlets, garnished with French Beans. Haricot Mutton.
Second Course.

Roast Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Rice. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Pheasants.

Punch Jelly. Blancmange. Apples it, la Portugaise.
Charlotte h la Vanille. Marrow Pudding.

Dessert.

2030. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October).-II.

First Course.

Mock-Turtle Soup. •

Brill and Lobster Sauce. Fried Whitings.

Entrees.

Fowl it la Bdchamel. Oyster Patties.

Second Course.

Roast Sucking-Pig. Stewed Rump of Beef a la Jardiniere. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Grouse.

Charlotte aux Pommesi Cofi'oo Cream. Cheesecakes.

Apricot Tart. Icod Pudding.

Dessert.

BILLS OF, FARE.

045

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR OCTOBER.

2051. Sunday.— 1. Roast sucking-pig, tomata sauce and brain sauce ; small
boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, turnips, and carrots. 2. Damson tart,
boiled batter pudding.

2052. Monday. — 1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that mutton was
boiled in. 2. Sucking-pig en blanquette, small meat pie, French beans, and
potatoes. 3. Pudding, pies.

■2083. Tuesday. — 1. Roast partridges, bread sauce, and gravy ; slices of
mutton warmed in caper sauce ; vegetables. 2. Baked plum-pudding.

2084. Wednesday. — 1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, vegetable
marrow, and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.

' *

2085. Thursday. — 1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and salad ;

mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Macaroni.

2086. Friday. — 1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce ; bacon-
cheek, garnished with greens ; beef rissoles, from remains of cold beef.
3. Baroness pudding.

2087. Saturday. — 1. Curried fowl, from remains of cold ditto ; dish of rice,
rumpsteak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Stewed pears and sponge
cakes.

20S8. Sunday. — 1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast haunch of
mutton, brown onion sauce, and vegetables. 3. Bullace pudding, baked
custards in cups.

2089. Monday. — 1. The remains of codfish, flaked, and warmed in a maitre
d ’hotel sauce. 2. Cold mutton and salad, veal cutlets and rolled bacon,
French beans and potatoes. 3. Arrowroot blancmange and stewed damsons.

2090. Tuesday. — 1. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly ; hashed mut-
bon, vegetables. 2. Currant dumplings.

2091. Wednesday.— 1. Jugged hare, from remains of roast ditto; boiled
knuckle of veal and rice ; boiled bacon-cheek. 2. Apple pudding.

20921 Thursday. — 1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, greens, and potatoes.
2. Rice snowballs.

2093. Friday. — 1. Slices of pork, broiled, and tomata sauce, mashed pota-
toes ; roast pheasants, bread sauce, and gravy. 2. Baked apple pudding.

2094. Saturday. — 1. Rump-steak pic, sweetbreads. 2. Ginger pudding.

916

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

First

NOVEMBER.

3095. — DIKNEE FOE 18 PERSONS.

Course. Entrees.

Thiele Grouse Bonp,
removed by

Crimped Cod and Oyster
Sauce.

Vase of j:

Flowers. ^

Clear Ox-tsil Soup, S
removed by
Fillets of Turbot ii la
Creme.

Poulet a la Marengo.

Vase of
Flowers.

<—

•*-

Mushrooms sautfs.

Second Course. Third Course.

Haunch of Mutton.

•

Partridges,

•

removed bv

Cold Game Pie,

Plum-pudding.

Vase of
Flowers.

-o

Cf)

hi Wine Jelly.

g" | Vase of

p- g Flowers.

4 J

Boiled Ham.

p* Blancmange.

^ <—
c o
>

f-*

*-!

Snipps,

Boiled Turkey and Celery

removed by

Sauce.

Charlotte glacee.

Dessert and Ices.

20DC. — DINNER EOR 12 PERSONS (November).

Eirst Course.

Hare Soup. Julienne Soup.

Baked Cod. Soles a la Normandie.

Entrees.

Riz do Yeau aux Tomates. Lobster Patties.

Mutton Cutlets and Soubiso Sauce. Crohtades of Marrow aux lines kerbes.

Second Course.

Roast Sirloin of Beef. Braised Goose. Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce.
Bacou-cheek, garnished with Sprouts.

Third Course.

Wild Ducks. Partridges.

Apples a la Portugaise. Bavarian Cream. Apricot-jam Sandwiches.
Cheesecakes. Charlotte a la Vanille. Plum-pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

BILLS OF FATUL

947

2097.— DINNER FOE 8 PERSONS (November).

First Course.

Mulligatawny Soup.

Fried slices of Codfish and Oyster Sauce. Eels on Matelote.
Entrees.

Eroded Pork Cutlets and Toinata Sauce. Tendrons de Veau a la Jardiniere.

Second Course.

Boiled Leg of Mutton and V egetables. Roast Goose. Cold Game Pie.

Third Course.

Snipes. Teal.

Apple Soulf.6.. Iced Charlotte. Tartlets./ Champagne Jelly.

Coffee Cream. Mince Pies.

Dessert and Ices.

2093. — DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (November).— I.
First Course.

Oyster Soup.

Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. Fried Perch and Dutch Sauce.

Entrees.

Pigs’ Foet a la Bechamel. Curried Rabbit.

Second Course.

Roast Sucking-Pig. Boiled Fowls and Oyster Sauce. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Jugged Hare.

Meringues a la Creme. Apple Custard. Vol-au-Vent of Pears.
'Whipped Cream. Cabinet Pudding.

Dessert.

2099-DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (November).— II.

. ' First Course.

Game Soup.

Slices of Codfish and Dutch Sauce. Fried Eels.

Entrees.

Kidneys h la Maltre d’Hotel. Oyster Patties.

Second Course.

Saddle of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Rice. Small Ham. Lark Puddin°v

• °

Third Course.

Roast Hare.

Apple Tart. Pineapple Cream. Clear Jelly. Cheesecakes.

Marrow Pudding. Nesselrode Pudding.

Dessert.

3 r 2

948

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKEEY.

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR NOVEMBER.

2100. Sunday. — 1. White soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, harioot beans,
potatoes. 3. Apple tart, ginger pudding.

2ior. Monday.— 1. Stewed eels. 2. Veal cutlets garnished with rolled
bacon ; cold mutton and winter salad. 3. Baked rice pudding.

2 io2. Tuesday. — 1. Eoast fowls, garnished with water-cresses ; boiled bacon-
cheek ; hashed mutton from remains of haunch. 2. Apple pudding.

2103. Wednesday. — 1. Boiled leg of pork, carrots,, parsnips, and pease-
puddiiig ; fowl croquettes made with remainder of cold fowl. 2. Baroness
pudding.

2104. Thursday. — 1. Cold pork and mashed potatoes ; roast partridges,
bread sauce and gravy. 2. The remainder of pudding cut into neat shoes, and
warmed through, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over ; apple fritters.

2105. Friday. — 1. Boast hare, gravy, and currant jelly;- rump-steak and
oyster sauce ; vegetables. 2. Macaroni.

2106. Saturday. — 1. Jugged have; small mutton pudding. 2. Fig pudding.

2107. Sunday. — 1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast* fowls, small
boiled ham, vegetables ; rump-steak pie. 3. Baked apple pudding, open jam
tart.

2108. Monday. — 1. The remainder of cod warmed in maitre d’hotel sauce.
2. Boiled aitchbone of beef, carrots, parsnips, suot dumplings. 3. Baked
bread-and-butter pudding.

2109. Tuesday. — 1. Pea-soup, made from liquor in which beef was boiled.
2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes ; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Carrot
pudding.

2110. Wednesday. — 1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Boast leg of
pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 3. Macaroni with Parmesan cheese.

2 1 1 1 . Thursday. — 1. Bubble-and-squeak from remains of cold beef ; curried
pork. 2. Baked Semolina pudding.

2112. Friday. — 1. Roast leg of mutton{ stewed Spanish onions, potatoes.
.2. Applo tart.

2113. Saturday. — 1. Hashed mutton ; boiled rabbit aud onion sauce ; vege-
tables. 2. Damson pudding made with bottled fruit.

BILLS OF FARE.

949

DECEMBER.

FOB, 18 PERSON'S.

2114.-DINNER
First Course.

Mock-Turtle Soup,

removed by-

Cod’s Head and Shoulders

c n

and Oyster Sauce.

Vase of

Flowers.

Julienne Soup,

removed by

Soles aux lines berbes.

Entrees.

Fillets of Grouse and
Sauce Fiquante.

a d

?5*

Vase of

o ^

t: m

t-i

Flowers.

cr*

C 3

Sweetbreads.

±: o

Second Course.

Haunch of Mutton.

Ham and Brussels

Sprouts.

■s 2

Vase of

<u:2

Flowers,

► s

Game Pie.

Boiled Turkey and
Celery Sauce.

Third Course.

Pheasants,

C <-i

removed by

3-5'

ro O

Plum-pudding.

d, .s

Vanilla Cream.

Vase of

Flowers.

Blancmange.

Wild Ducks,

° 2

R-’g'

removed by

Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

2115.— DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (December).
First Course.

Game Soup. Clear Vermicelli Soup.

Codfish au gratin. Fillets of Whitings h la Maltre d’Hotel.

Entrees.

Filet de Boeuf and Sauce Piquante. Fricasseed Chicken.
Oyster Patties. 'Curried Rabbit.

Second Course.

Roast Turkey and Sausages. Boiled Leg of Pork and Vegetables.
Roast Goose. Stewed Beef h la Jardiniere.

Third Course.

Widgeon. Partridges.

Charlotte aux Pommes. Mince Pies. Orange Jelly. Lemon Cream.
Apple Tart. Cabinet Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERT.

050

2116.— DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (December).

First Course.

Mulligatawny Soup.

. Fried Slices of Codfish. Soles h la Crfime.

Entrees.

Croquettes of Fowl. Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.

Second Course.

Tloast Ribs of Beef. Boilod Turkey and Celery Sauce. Tongue, garnished.
Lark Pudding. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Roast Hare. Crouse.

Plum-pudding. Mince Pies. Charlotte a la Parisiennel Cheesecakes.
Apple Tart. Nesselrode Pudding.

Dessert and Icfes.

2117.*— DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (December).

First Course.

Carrot Soup.

Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. Baked Soles.

Entrees.

Mutton Kidneys h la Frangaise. Oyster Patties.

Second Course.

Boiled Beef and Vegetables. Marrow-bones. Roast Fowls and Water-cresses.
Tongue, garnished. Game Pie.

Third Course.

Partridges.

Blancmange. CompOte of Apples. Vol-au-Vent of Pears.

Almond Cheesecakes. Lemon Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

2118.— DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).-I.

First Course. .

Rabbit Soup.

Brill and Shrimp Sauce.

Entrees.

Curried Fowl. Oyster Patties.

Second Course.

Roast Turkey and Sausages. Boiled Leg of Pork. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Hunters’ Pudding. Lemon Cheesecakes. Apple Tart. Custards, in glasses.

Raspberry Cream.

Dessert.

BILLS OF FAKE.

951

2119. -DINNEB. FOB 6 PBESONS (December).— II.

First Course.

Ox-tail Soup.

Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.

Entrees.

Savoury Rissoles. Fowl Scollops 5, la Bechamel,

Second Course.

Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Chickens and Celery Banco.
Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. Vegetables.

Third Course.

Snipes.

Orange Jelly. Cheesecakes. Apples h la Portugaise.
Apricot-jam Tartlets. Souffid of Rice.

Dessert.

2120. — DINNER FOB 6 PERSONS (December).— III.

First Course.

Vermicelli Soup.

Soles h la Maltre d’Hotel. Fried Eels.

Entrees.

Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce. Ragoftt of Mutton a la Jardiniere.
Second Course.

Roast Goose. Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables.

Third Course.

Pheasants.

Whipped Cream. Meringues. Compete of Normandy Pippins.
Mineo Pies. Plum-pudding.

Dessert.

2121. — DINNER FOB 6 PERSONS (December).— IV.

First Course.

Carrot Soup.

/ , Baked Cod. Fried Smelts.

Entrees.

Stewed Rump-steak h la Jardiniere. Fricasseed. Chicken.

Second Course.

Roast Leg of Mutton, honed and stuffed. Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce.

Vegetables.

Third Course.

Wild Ducks.

Fancy Pastry. Lemon Cream. Damson Tart, with bottled iruit.
Custards, in glasses. Cabinet Pudding.

Dessert.

9i>2

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR DECEMBER.

'2122. Sunday. — 1. Carrot soup. 2. Roast beef, horseradish sauce, vege-
tables. 3. Plum-pudding, minco pies.

2123. Monday. — 1. Fried whitings, melted butter. 2. Rabbit pie, cold beef,
mashod potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding cut in slices and warmed ; apple tart.

2124. Tuesday. — 1. Hashed beef and broiled bones, pork cutlets and
tomata sauce ; vegetables. 2. Baked lemon pudding.

2125. Wednesday. — 1. Boiled neck of mutton and vegetable!; the broth
served first with a little pearl barley or rice boiled in it. 2. Bakewell
pudding.

2126. Thursday. — 1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 2. Rice
snowballs.

2127. Friday. — 1. Solos h la Crfime. 2. Cold pork and mashed potatoes,
broiled rump-stoalcs and oyster sauce. 3. Rolled jam pudding.

2128. Saturday. — 1. The remains of cold pork curried, dish of rice, mutton
cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked apple dumplings.

2129. Sunday. — 1. Roast turkey and sausages, boiled leg of pork, pease
pudding, vegetables. 2. Bakod apple pudding, minco pies.

2130. Monday. — 1. Hashed turkey, cold pork, mashod potatoes. 2. Mince-
meat pudding.

2131. Tuesday. — 1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which pork was boiled.
2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce, vegetables. 3. Bakod rice pudding.

2132. Wednesday. — 1. Roast leg. of mutton, stowed Spanish onions, pota-
toes. 2. Baked rolled jam pudding.

2r33- Thursday. — 1. Baked cod’s head. 2. Cold mutton, roast hare, gravy
and red-currant jelly. 3. Macaroni.

2134. Friday. — 1. Hare soup, made with stock and remains of roast hare.
2. Hashed mutton, pork cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 3. Open tarts, rice
blancmange.

2135. Saturday. — 1. Rumpsteak-and-kidney pudding, «vegetables. 2. Minco
pies, bakod apple dumplings.

BILLS OF FARE.

953

2136.— BILL OF FARE FOR A GAME DINNER FOR
30 PERSONS (November).

First Course. Entrees.

Hare Soup.

Vase of

*-*»

Flowers.

Soup a la Heine.

Second Course.

Larded Pheasants.

Leveret, larded and

S.PU
P *

stuffed.

£ 3

©* ra

Vase of

...

Tio

<3"2

Flowers.

.2nd
eg ©

2w
■ S

S’

Grouse.

Larded Partridges.

*■ M

o a
w

Entremets and liemovcs.

Cm •

0 M

3 3.

rf o
* O
€*-

o o
*-n 7-

Boudin a la H esselrode.
Dantzio Jelly.

“ O

.p a
eS O

*©

rs-2

Vase of

Cj fcfl

CO 0

Flowers.

<d.2

Charlotte Russe.

eg:

0 ©
— ■ ©

If
• *“•»

Plum-pudding.

P»

p ^

Fillets of Hare

33 ' if

en Chevreuil.

a t3

c g, cPerdrixauxChoux. "

■a g

i-d Vase of ^

3 Flowers.

Bi g

flco 5 Curried Rabbit. «
§ » ®> O

°S

S'S.

Fillet of Pheasant

j: to

§ 0

fi*"*

and Trudies.

Third Course.

Pintails.

Ortolans.

Quails.

0 0.

Vase of

0 pf

M O
u P

Flowers.

Teal.

P ^

"Woodcocks.

Dessert.

Strawberry-Ice

03 “ £

Cream.

73 -J

.g‘3

2 Q
2. -i

Pineapples.

p£

CD O

O " &

Grapes.

CD)

Pears.

cn cn

-M

S-.

£ 5,1=

Vase of

0 2 2
O . 03 ST

Flowers.

Apples.

73 *

NtJ

Grapes.

cj cn
>.2

u S. S' Pears.

2 ct&,
cn?" *

.“ Lemon-Water Ice

in <3!

Olives.

V51

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

MENU.

2137.-S3E.VICE A LA EUS3E (July).

Julionne Soup. Vormioolli Soup.

Boiled Salmon. Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Soles-Water Soucby. Perch- Water Soucby.

Matelote d’Anguilles it la Toulouse. Filets de Soles h la Normandie.
Bed Mullet. Trout.

Lobster Rissoles. Whitebait.

Riz de Veau h. la Banquibre. Filets de Poulets aux Coucombres.

Canards h la Rouennaise. Mutton Cutlets b la Jardinibre.

Braised Beef a la Flamande. Spring Chickens.

Roast Quarter of Lamb. Roast Saddle of Mutton.

Tongue. Ham and Peas. •

Quails, larded. Roast Ducks. Turkey Poult, larded.
Mayonnaiso of Chicken. Tomatas. Green Peas b, la Franoaise.

Sucdoise of Strawberries. Charlotte Russo. Compete of Cherries.
Neapolitan Cakes. Pastry. Madeira Wine Jelly.

Iced Pudding b. la Nesselrode.

Dessert and Ices.

Dinners a la Basse differ from ordinary dinners in the mode of serving the

various dishes. In a dinner a la Eusse, the dishes are cut up on a sideboard, and handed
■round to the guests, and each dish may be considered a course. The table for a dinner
h la Eusse should be laid with (lowers and plants in fancy flowerpots down the middle,
together with some of the dessert dishes. A menu or bill of fare should be laid by the
side of each guest.

BILLS OF PA. HE.

955

MENU.

2138.— SERVICE A LA BTTSSE (November).

Os -tail Soup. Soup a la Jardiniere.

Turbot and. Lobster Sauce. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.

Stewed Eels. Soles a. la Normandie.

Pike and Cream Sauce. Fried Filleted Soles.

Filets do Bceuf h. la Jardiniere. Croquettes of Game aux Champignons.
Chicken Cutlets. Mutton Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.

Lobster Rissoles. Oyster Patties.

Partridges aux fines herbes. Larded Sweetbreads.

Roast Beef. Poulets aux Cressons.
Haunch of Mutton. Roast Turkey.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Ham.

Grouse. Pheasants. Hare.

Salad. Artichokes. Stewed Celery.

Italian Cream. Charlotte aux Pommes. Compute of Pears.
Crofites madrdes aux’Fruits. Pastry. Punch Jelly.
Iced Pudding.

Dessert and Ices.

Node.1— Dinners a la Eusse are scarcely suitable for small establishments; a large
number of servants being required to carve, and to help the guests ; besides there being
a necessity for more plates, dishes, knives, forks, and spoons, than are usually to be
found in any other than a very large establishment. Where, however, a service a la
Eusse is practicable, there is, perhaps, no mode of serving a dinner so enjovable
as this.

953

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.

SUPPERS.

2139. Much may be done in the arrangement of a supper-table, at a very
small expenso, provided taste and ingenuity are exercised. The colours and
flavours of the various dishes should contrast nicely ; there should be plenty of
fruit and flowers on tho table, and the room should be well lighted. We have
endeavoured to show how the various dishes may bo placed ; but of course
these little matters entirely depend on the length and width of the table
used, on individual taste, whether the tables aro arranged round tbe room,
whether down the centro, with a cross one at the top, or whether the supper
is laid in two separate rooms, &e. &c. The garnishing of the dishes has also
much to do with tho appearance of a supper-table. Hams and tongues should
be ornamented with cut vegetable flowers, raised pies with aspic jelly cut in
dice, and all the dishes garnished sufficiently to be in good taste without
looking absurd. The eye, in fact, should be as much gratified as the palate.
Hot soup is now often served at suppers, but is not placed on the table. The
servants fill the plates from a tureen on the buffet, and then hand them to
the guests : when these plates arc removed, the business of supper com-
mences.

2 140. Where small rooms and large parties necessitate having a standing
supper, many things enumerated in the following bill of fare may be placed on
the buffet. Dishes for these suppers should be selected which may be eaten
Standing without any trouble. The following list may, perhaps, assist our
readers in the arrangement of a buffet for a standing supper.

2141. Beef, ham, and tongue sandwiches, lobster and oyster patties, sausage
rolls, meat rolls, lobster salad, dishes of fowls, tho latter all cut up ; dishes of
sliced ham, sliced tongue, sliced beef, and galantine of veal ; various jellies,
blancmanges, and creams ; custards in glasses, compOtes of fruit, tartlets of
jam, and several dishes of small fancy pastry ; dishes of fresh fruit, bonbons,
sweetmeats, two or three sponge cakes, a few plates of biscuits, and the buffet
ornamented with vases of fresh or artificial flowers. The above dishes aro
quite sufficient for a standing supper ; where more are desired, a supper must
then be laid and arranged in the usual manner.

BILLS OF FARE.

957

2112.— BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER FOR
60 PERSONS (for Winter).

Fruited Jelly.
Small Pastry.

Vanilla Cream.

Prawns.

Biscuits.

Custards,
in glasses.

Fruited Jelly.

Meringues.

Easpberry Cream.

Small Pastry.

Custards,
in glasses.

Prawns.

Biscuits.

Fruited Jelly.

E* Charlotte Eusse.

Boah’s Cead,
garnished with Aspic Jelly.

Mayonnaise of Fowl.

Small Ham, garnished.

Iced Savoy Cake.

Epergne, with Fruit.

Two Boiled Fowls, with Bechamel
Sauce.

Tongue, ornamented.

Trifle, ornamented.

Eaised Chicken Pie.
Tipsy Cake.
Eoast Pheasant.

Epergne, with Fruit.

Galantine of Veal.

Tipsy Cake.
Eaised Game Pie.

Trifle, ornamented.

Tongue, ornamented.

Two Boiled Fowls, with Bechamel
Sauce.

EPEBGITE, WITH PRCIT.

Iced Savoy Cake.
Small Ham, garnished.
Mayonnaise of Fowl.
Larded Capon.

Charlotte Eusse.
Biscuits.

Fruited Jelly.

Prawns.
Small Pastry.

Custards,
in glasses.

Swiss Cream.

Meringues.

Fruited Jelly.

Biscuits.

Custards,
in glasses..

Prawns.

Small Pastry.

Blancmange.
Fruited Jelly.

AWe.— When soup is served from the buffet, Mock Turtle and Julienno mnv be
selected. Besides the articles enumerated above, Ices, Wafers, Biscuits, Tea, Coffee,
Wines, and Liqueurs will be required. Punch a la Bomaine may also be added to tha
list ol beverages.

<>58

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY,

2113.— BILL OF EAEE FOE A BALL SUPPEH,

Or a Cold Collation for a Summer Entertainment, or Wedding or
Christening Breakfast for 70 or 80 Persons (July).

® 03 ^

*jdj

C. ~ co
ct- (t“

• CD rf

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go5

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E,ST

CO »— Pi
. PO

b £
5* ®

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fc: ®

b A

to'

Dish of
Lobster,
out up.

Charlotte
Russo u, la
Vauille.

Pigeon Pie.

E.3-

'Atigue.

Eibs of Lamb.
Two Roast Fowls.
Mayonnaise of Salmon.

Veal-and-Ham

Pio.

SPo

P* 7

Epergne, with Flowers.

“■a

-3 Savoy Cake.

Mayonnaise of Trout.
Tongue, garnished.

Boiled Fowls and Bechamel Sauce.
Collared Eel.

Bam.

Raised Pie.

Two Roast Fowls.
Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed.
Mayonnaise of Salmon.

COS'

*af

•i

Dish of

Lobster, 'g g.

tc **■

cut up. p

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H 1 O

Epergne, with Flowers.

*.3*

j; (J)
2-0

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» J (D

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Pigeon Pio.

M o

“o 3

Dhh of „
Lol;ster* Calm

cut up.

Mayonnaise of Trout.
Tongue.

Boiled Fowls and Bechamel Sauce.
Raised Pie.

Ham, decorated.

Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed.
Two Roast Fowls.
Mayonnaise of Salmon.

'±~r

Epergne, with Flowers.

Mayonnaise ofTrout.
Tongue, garnished.

Boiled Fowls and Bechamel Sauce.
Collared Eel.

Dish of
Lobster,
cut up.

3 *

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o o

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128

Pigeon Pie. n

Dish of
Lobster,
cut up.

a ,-.s

C P-i

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lotto Vei ofih
Rnsae T?ml ’.»o
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Vauille. iie‘ = ,-S

' Dish Of |

Note. — The length of the page will not admit of our giving the dishes as they should
be placed on the table ; they should be arranged with the largo and high dishes down the
centre, and the spaces filled up with the smaller dishes, fruit, and flowers, taking
care that the flavours and colours contrast nicely, and that no two dishes of a sort
come together. This bill of fare may be made to answer three or four purposes, placing
a wedding cake or christening cake in the centre on a high stand, if required for cither
of these occasions. A few dishes of fowls, lobster salads, &c. &c., should be kept in reserve
to replenish those that are most likely to be eaten first. A joint of cold roast and boiled beef
should be placed on tho bullet, as being something substantial for the gentlemen of
tho party to partake of. Besides tho articles enumerated in the Dill of lure, .biscuits
and wafers will be required, cream-and-water ices, tea, coffee, wines, liqueurs, soda-
wuter, ginger-beer, and lemonade.

BILES Oil' FARE.

959

BREAKFASTS.

1144. It will not be necessary to give hero a long bill of faro of cold joints,
&c., which may be placed on the side-board, and do duty at the breakfast-
table. Suffice it to say, that any cold meat the larder may furnish, should be
nicely garnished, and be placed on the buffet. Collared and potted meats or
fish, cold game or poultry, veal-and-ham pies, game-and-rumpsteak pies, are
all suitable dishes for the breakfast-table ; as also cold ham, tongue, &c. & c.

0145. The following list of hot dishes may perhaps assist our readers in
knowing what to provide for the comfortable meal called breakfast. Broiled
fish, such as mackerel, whiting, herrings, dried haddocks, &c. ; mutton chops
and rump-steaks, broiled sheep’s kidneys, kidneys a la mA.it re d’hfitel, sau-
sages, plain rashers of bacon, bacon and poached eggs,, ham and poached
eggs, omelets, plain boiled eggs, ocufs-au-plat, poached eggs on toast, muffins,
toast, marmalade, butter, &c. &c.

1 146. In the summer, and when they are obtainable, always have a vase
of freshly-gathered flowers on the breakfast-table, and, when convenient, a
nicely-arranged dish of fruit : when strawberries are in season, these are
particularly refreshing ; as also grapes, or even currants.

LUNCHEONS AND SUPPERS.

2147. The remains of cold joints, nicely garnished, a few sweets, or a
little hashed meat, poultry or game, are the usual articles placed on the table
for luncheon, with broad and cheese, biscuits, butter, &c. If a substantial
meal is desired, rump-steaks or mutton chops may be served, as also veal cut-
lets, kidneys, or any dish of that kind. In families where there is a nursery,
the mistress of the house often partakes of the meal with the children, and
makes it her luncheon. In tho summer, a few dishes of fresh fruit should
he added to the luncheon, or, instea'd of this, a compete of fruit or fruit tart
or pudding.

2148. Of suppers wo have little to say, as we have already given two bills of
fare for a large party, which will answer very well for a smaller number, by
reducing the quantity of dishes and by omitting a few. Hot suppers are now
very little in request, as poople now generally dine at an hour which precludes
the possibility of requiring supper ; at all events, no'tpne of a substantial kind.
Should, however, a bill of fare be required, one of those under the head of
Dinners, with slight alterations, will bo found to answer for a hot supper.

SCO

MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKER*.

BILL OF FARE FOR A PICNIC FOR 40 PERSONS.

•2149. A joint of cold roast beef, a joint of cold boiled beef, 2 ribs of lamb,

2 shoulders of lamb, 4 roast fowls, 2 roast ducks, 1 ham, 1 tongue, 2 veal-and-
ham pies, 2 pigeon pies, 6 medium-sized lobsters, 1 piece of collared calf's
head, 18 lettuces, 6 baskets of salad, 6 cucumbers.

■2150. Stewed fruit well sweetened, and put into glass bottles well corked ;

3 or 4 dozen plain pastry biscuits to eat with the stowed fruit, 2 dozen fruit
turnovers, 4 dozen cheesecakes, 2 cold cabinet puddings in moulds, 2 blanc-
manges in moulds, a few jam puffs, 1 large cold plum-pudding (this must be
good), a few baskets of fresh fruit, 3 dozen plain biscuits, a piece of cheese,
ti lbs. of butter (this, of course, includes the butter for tea), 4 quartern loaves
of household bread, 3 dozen rolls, 6 loaves of tin bread (for tea), 2 plain plum
cakes, 2 pound cakes, 2 sponge cakes, a tin of mixed biscuits, £ lb. of tea.
Coffee is not suitable for a picnic, being difficult to make.

Things not to be forgotten at a Picnic.

2151. A stick of horseradish, a bottle of mint-sauce well corked, a bottle
of salad dressing, a bottlo of vinegar, made mustard, pepper, salt, good oil,
and pounded sugar. If it can be managed, take a little ice. It is scarcely
necessary to say that plates, tumblers, wine-glasses, knives, forks, and spoons,
must not be forgotten ; as also teacups and saucers, 3 or 4 teapots, some lump
sugar, and milk, if this last-named article cannot be obtained in the neigh-
bourhood. Take 3 corkscrews.

2152. Beverages. — 3 dozen quart bottles of ale, packed in hampers; ginger-
beer, soda-water, and lemonade, of each 2 dozen bottles ; 6 bottles of sherry,
6 bottles of claret, champagne it discretion, and any other light wine that
may be preferred, and 2 bottles of brandy. Water can usually bo obtained ;
so it is useless to take it.

DOMESTIC SERVANTS

CHAPTER X LI.

2153. It is the custom of "Society” to abuse its servants, — a fafon cle
parley, such as leads their lords and masters to talk of the weather, and,
when rurally inclined, of the crops, — loads matronly ladies, and ladies just
entering on their probation in that honoured and honourable state, to talk
of servants, and, as we are told, wax eloquent over the greatest plague in
life while taking a quiet cup of tea. Young men at their clubs, also, we are
told, like to abuse their “ fellows,” perhaps not without a certain pride and
pleasure at the opportunity of intimating that they enjoy such appendages
to their state. It is another conviction of " Society ” that the race of good
servants has died out, at least in England, although they do order these
things better in France ; that there is neither honesty, conscientiousness,
nor the careful and industrious habits which distinguished tho servants of our
grandmothers and great-grandmotbers ; that domestics no longer know their
place ; that the introduction of cheap silks and cottons, and, still more
recently, those ambiguous "materials” and tweeds, have removed the land-
marks between the mistress and her maid, between tho master and his man.

2154. When tho distinction really depends on things so insignificant, this
is very probably the case ; when the lady of fashion chooses her footman
without any other consideration than his height, shape, and tournure of his
calf, it is not surprising that she should find a domestic who has no attach-
ment for the family, who considers the figure ho cuts behind her carriage,
and the late hours he is compelled to keep, a full compensation for tho wages
ho exacts, for the food he wastes, and for the perquisites he can lay his
hands on. Nor should tho fast young man, who chooses his groom for his
knowingness in the ways of the turf and in tho tricks of low horse-dealers,
be surprised if he is sometimes the victim of these learned ways. But these
are the exceptional cases, which prove the existence of a better state of
things. The great masses of society among us are not thus deserted ; there
are few families of respectability, from the shopkeeper in the next street to
the nobleman whoso mansion dignifies the next square, which do not contain
among their dependents attached and useful servants ; and where these are
absent altogether, there are good reasons for it. The sonsible master and
tho kind mistress know, that if servants dopend on them for their means of

3 Q

0G2

nonsEnoLD management.

living, in their turn they are dependent on their servants for very many of the
comforts of lifo ; and that, with a proper amount of care in choosing servants,
and treating them like reasonable beings, and making slight excuses for tho
shortcomings of human nature, they will, save in some exceptional case, bo
tolerably well served, and, in most instances, surround themselves with
attached domestics.

2155. This remark, which is applicable to all domestics, is especially so to
men-servants. Families accustomed to such attendants have always about
them humble dependents, whose children have no other prospect than
domestic service to look forward to ; to them it presents no degradation, but
the reverse, to be so employed ; they are initiated step by step into the
mysteries of the household, with tho prospect of rising in the service, if it is a
house admitting of promotion,— to the respectable position of butler or house-
steward. In families of humbler pretensions, where they must look for pro-
motion elsewhere, they know that can only be attained by acquiring tho good-
will of their employers. Can there be any stronger security for their good
conduct, — any doubt that, in the mass of domestic servants, good conduct is
the rule, the reverse the exception ?

2156. The number of the male domestics in a family varies according to the
wealth and position of the master, from the owner of the ducal mansion, with
a retinue of attendants, at the head of which is the chanlberlain and house-
steward, to the occupier of tho humbler house, whore a single footman, or
even the odd man-of-all-work, is the only male retainer. The majority of
gontlemen’s establishments probably comprise a servant out of livery, or
butler, a footman, and coachman, or coachman and groom, where the horse3
exceed two or three.

DUTIES OP THE BUTLER.

2157. The domestic duties of tho butler are to bring in tho eatables at
breakfast, and wait upon the family at that meal, assisted by the footman, and
see to the cleanliness of everything at table. On taking away, ho removes the
tray with the china and plate, for which he is responsible. At luncheon, he
arranges the meal, and waits unassisted, the footman being now engaged in
other duties. At dinner, he places the silver and plated articles on the table,
sees that everything is in its place, and rectiSes what is wrong. He carries in
the first dish, and announces in the drawing-room that dinner is on tho table,
and respectfully stands by the door until the company are seated, when he
takes his place behind his master’s chan- on the left, to remove tho covers,
handing them to tho other attendants to carry out. After the firet course of
plates is supplied, his place is at tho sideboard to servo tho wines, but only
when called on.

2158. Tho first course ended, ho rings tho cook’s bell, and hands the dishes
h-om the table to tho other servants to carry away, receiving from them tho

DUTIES OF THE BUTLER.

903

second course, w-liick ho places on the tablo, removing the. covers as before,
and again taking his place at the sidoboard.

2159. At dessert, the slips being removed, the butler receives the dessert
from the other servants, and arranges it on the table, with plates and glasses,
and then takes his place behind his master’s chair to hand the wines and ices,
while the footman stands behind his mistress for the same purpose, the other
attendants leaving the room. Where tho;old-fashioned practice of having the
dessert on tho polished table, without any. cloth, is still adhered to, the butler
should rub off any marks made by tho hot dishes before arranging the dessert.

2160. Before dinner, he has satisfied himself that the lamps, candles, or
gas-burners are in perfect order, if not lighted, which will usually be the case.
Having served every one with their share of the dessert, put the fires in order
(whon these are used), and seen the lights are all right, at a signal from his
master, he and the footman leave the room,

2161. He now proceeds to the drawing-room, arranges the fireplace, and
sees to the lights ; he then returns to his pantry, prepared to answer the bell,
and attend to the company, while tho footman is clearing away and cleaning
tho plate and glasses.

2162. At tea he again attends. At bedtime ho appears with the candles ;
he locks up the plate, secures doors and windows, and sees that all the fires
are safe.

2163. 1° addition to these duties, the butler, where only one footman is
kept, will be required to perform some of the duties of the valet, to pay bills,
and superintend the other servants. But the real duties of the butler are in
the wine-cellar ; there he should be competent to advise his master as to the
price and quality of the wine to be laid in ; “ fine,” bottle, cork, and seal it,
and place it in the binns. Brewing, racking, and bottling malt liquors, belong
to his office, as well as their distribution. Those and other drinkables are
brought from the cellar every day by his own hands, except where an under-
butler is kept ; and a careful entry of every bottle used, entered in the cellar-
book ; so that the book should always show tho contents of the cellar.

2164., The office of butler is thus one of very great trust in a household. Here a3
Cjsewhero, honesty is the best policy : the butler should make it his business to under-
staud the proper treatment of the different wines under his charge, which he can easily
do irom the wine-merchant, and faithfully attend to it; his own reputation will soon
compensate for the absence of bribes from unprincipled wine-merchants, if he serves a
generous and hospitable master. Nothing spreads more rapidly in society than tho

of f(,e?odv)!,ne:cellar, ,anl1 aU ^‘at is required is wines well chosen aud well
cared for; and tms alittle knowledge, carefully applied, will soon supply.

2165. The butler, wo have said, has charge of the contents- of the cellars,
and it is bis duty to keep them in a proper condition, to fine down wino in

wood, bottle it off, and store it away in places, suited to the sorts. Where

3 Q 2

0C1

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

wine conies into the cellar ready bottled, it is usual to return the same number
of empty bottles ; the butler has not, in this case, the same inducements to
keep the bottles of the different sorts separated ; but where the wine is bottled
in the house, he will find his account, not only in kcoping them separate, but
in rinsing them well, and even washing them with clean water as soon as they
are empty.

21G6. There are various modes of fining wine : isinglass, gelatine, and gum Arabic are
all used for the purpose. Whichever of these arficles is used, the process is alw ays
the Bame. Supposing eggs (tho cheapest) to be used, — Draw a gallon or so of the wine,
and mix one quart of it with the whites of four eggs, by stirring it with a whisk ; after-
wards, when thoroughly mixed, pour it back into the cask through the bunghole, and
stir up the whole cask, in a rotatory direction, with a clean split stick inserted through
the bunghole. Having Btirred it sufficiently, pour in the remainder of the wine drawn
off, until the cask is full; then stir again, skimming off tho bubbles that rise to the surface.
When thoroughly mixed by stirring, close the bunghole, and leave it to stand for three
or four days. This quantity of clarified wine will fine thirteen dozen of port or sherry.
The other clearing ingredients are applied in the same manner, the material being cut
into small pieces, and dissolved in the quart of wine, and the cask stirred in the same
manner.

2167. To Bottle Wine. — Having thoroughly washed and dried the bottles, supposing
they have been before used for the same kind of wine, provide corks, which will be
improved by being slightly boiled, or at least steeped in hot water, — a wooden hammer|or
mallet, a bottling-boot, and a squeezer for the corks. Bore a hole in the lower part of
the cask with a gimlet, receiving the liquid stream which follows in thebottle and filterer,
which is placed in a tub or basiu. This operation is best performed by two persons, one
to draw the wine, tho other to cork the bottles. The drawer is to see that the bottles
are up to the mark, but not too full, the bottle being placed in a clean tub to prevent
waste. The corking-boot is budded by a strap to the knee, the bottle placed in it, and
the cork, after being squeezed in the press, driven in by a flat wooden mallet.

2168. As the wine draws near to the bottom of the cask, a thick piece of muslin is
placed in the strainer, to prevent the viscous grounds from passiug into the bottle.

2169. Having carefully counted the bottles, they are stored away in their respective
binns, a layer of sand or sawdust beiug placed under the first tier, and another over it;
a second tier is laid over this, protected oy a lath, the head of the second being laid to
the bottom of the first; over this another bed of sawdust is laid, not too thick, another
lath ; and so on till tho binn is filled.

2170. Wine so laid in will be ready for use according to its quality and age. Port
wine, old in the wood, will be ready to drink in five or six months ; but if it is a fruity*
wine, it will improve every year. Sherry, if of good quality, will be fit to drink as soon
as tho “ sickness " (as its first condition after bottling is called) ceases, and will also
improve ; but tho cellar must be kept at a perfectly steady temperature, neither too hot
nor too cold, but about 55° or 60°, and absolutely free from draughts of cold air.

DUTIES OF THE FOOTMAN.

2171. Wliero a single footman, or odd man, is the only male servant, then,
whatever his ostensible position, ho is required to make himself generally
useful. He has to clean the knives and shoes, the furniture, tho plate ; answer
the visitors who call, tho drawing-room and parlour bells ; and do all tho
errands. His lifo is no sinecure ; and a methodical arrangement of his timo
will be necessary, in order to perform his many duties with any satisfaction
to himself or his master.

2172. The footman only finds himself in stockiugs, shoes, and washing. 1\ here silk
stockings, or other extra urticles of linen are worn, they are found by the lamily, as well

DUTIES OF THE FOOTMAN.

0G5

as his livery, a working dress, consisting of n pair of overalls, a waistcoat, a fustian
jacket, with a white or jean one for times when lie is liable to be called to answer the door
or wait at breakfast ; and, on quitting his service, he is expected to leave behind him any
livery had within six months.

2173. Tlio footman is expected to rise early, in order to get through all
his dirty work before the family are stirring. Boots and shoes, and knives
and forks, should be cleaned, lamps in use trimmed, his master’s clothes
brushed, the furniture rubbed over ; so that he may put aside his working
dress, tidy himself, and appear in a clean jean jacket to lay the cloth and
prepare breakfast for the family.

2174. Wo need hardly dwell on the boot-cleaning process : three good brushes and
good blacking must be provided; one of the brushes hard, to brush oil' the mud ; the
other soft, to lay on the blacking; the third of a medium hardness, for polishing; and
each should be kept for its particular use. The blacking should be kept corked up,
except when in use, and applied to the brush with a sponge tied to a stick, which, when
put away, rests in a notch cut in the cork. When boots come in very muddy, it is a

food practice to wash off the mud, and wipe them dry with a sponge ; then leave them to
ry very gradually on their sides, taking care they are not placed near the iire, or
scorched. Much delicacy of treatment is required in cleaning ladies’ boots, so as to
make the leather look well-polished, and the upper part retain a fresh appearance, with
the lining free from hand-marks, which are very offensive to a lady of refined tastes.

2175. Patent leather boots require to be wiped with a wet sponge, and afterwards with
a soft dry cloth, and occasionally with a soft cloth and sweet oil, blacking and polishing
the edge of the soles in the usual way, but so as not to cover the patent polish with
blacking. A little milk may also be UBed with very good effect for patentleather boots.

2176. Top boots are still occasionally worn by gentlemen. While cleaning the lower
part in the usual manner, protect the tops, by inserting a cloth or brown paper under
the edges and bringing it over them. In cleaning the tops, let the covering fall down
over the boot; wash the tops clean with soap and flannel, and rub out any spots with
pumice-stone. If the tops are to bo whiter, dissolve an ounce of oxalic acid and half an
ounce of pumice-stone in a pint of soft water ; if a brown colour is intended, mix an
ounce of muriatic acid, half an ounce of alum, half an ounce of gum Arabic, and half an
ounce of spirit of lavender, in a pint and a half of skimmed milk “ turned.” These mix-
tures apply by means of a sponge, and polish, when dry, with a rubber made of soft
flannel.

2177. Knives are now generally cleaned by means of Kent’s or Masters’s machine, which
gives very little trouble, and is very effective ; before, however, putting the knives into the
machine, it is highly necessary that they be first washed in a little warm (not hot) water,
and then thoroughly wiped : if put into the machine with anv grease on them, it adheres
to the brushes, and consequently renders them unfit to use for the next knives that may
be put in. When this precaution is not taken, the machine must come to pieces, so
causing an immense amount of trouble, which may all be avoided by having the kn’ives
thoroughly free from grease before using the machine. Brushes are also used for
cleaning forks, which facilitate the operation. When knives are so cleaned, see that they
are carefully polished, wiped, and with a good edge, the ferules and prongs free from
dirt, and place them in the basket with the handles all one way.

2178. Lamp-trimming requires a thorough acquaintance with the mechanism ; after
that, constant attention to cleanliness, and an occasional entire clearing out with hot
water : when this is done, all the parts should be carefully dried before filling again with
oil. When lacquered, wipe the lacquered parts with a soft brush and cloth, and wash
occasionally with weak soapsuds, wiping carefully afterwards. Brass lamps may bo
cleaned with oil and rottenstone every day when trimmed. With bronze, and other
ornamental lamps, more care will be required, and soft flannel and oil only used, to
prevent the removal of the bronze or enamel. Brass-work, or any metal-work not
lacquered, is cleaned by a littlo oil and rottenstone made into a pasto, or with fine
emery -powder and oil mixed in the eame manner. A small portion of sal ammoniac
beat into a fine powder and moistened with soft water, rubbed over brass ornaments’
and heated over a charcoal fire, and rubbed dry with bran or whitening, will give to
brass-work tlio brilliancy of gold. In trimming moderator lamps, let the wick be out
evenly all round ; as, if left higher in one pluee than it is in another, it will cause it to
smoke and burn badly. The lamp should then bo filled with oil from a feeder and

965

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

afterwards well wiped with a cloth or rag kept for the purpose. If it can be avoided,
never wash the chimneys of a lump, us it causes them to crack when they become hot.
Small •sticks, covered with wash-leather pads, are the best things to use l'or cleaning the
glasses inside, and a clean duster for polishing the outside. The globe of a moderator
lamp should be occasionally washed in warm soap and-water, then well rinsed in cold
water, and either wiped dry or left to drain. Where candle-lamps aroused, take out
the springs occasionally, and free them well from the grease that adheres to them.

2179. French polish, so universally applied to furniture, is easily kept in condition by
dusting and rubbing with a soft cloth, or a rubber of old silk ; but dining-tables can
only be kept in order by hard rubbing, or rather by quick rubbing, which warms the
wood and removes all spots.

2180. Brushing clothes is a very simple but very necessary operation. Fine cloths
require to be brushed lightly, and with rather a soft brush, except where mud is to
be removed, when a hard ono is necessary, being previously beaten lightly to dislodge
the dirt. Lay the garment on a table, and brush it in the direction of the nap. Having
brushed it properly, turn the sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds may come at the
elbow-joints; next turn the lappels or sides back over the folded sleeves ; then lay the
skirts over level with the collar, so that the crease may fall about the centre, and double
one half over the other, so as the fold comes in the centre of the back.

21S1. Having got through his dirty work, the single footman has now to clean
himself and prepare the breakfast. Ho lays the cloth on the table ; over it
the breakfast-cloth, and sets the breakfast things in order, and then proceeds
to wait upon his master, if ho has any of the duties of a valet to perform.

2182. Where a valet is not kept, a portion of liis duties falls to the footman’s
share, — brushing the clothes among others. When the hat is silk, it requires
blushing every day with a soft brush; after rain, it requires wiping the
way of the nap before drying, and, when nearly dry, brushing with the soft
brush and with the hat-stick in it. If the footman is required to perform
any part of a valet’s duties, ho will have to see that the housemaid lights a
fire in the dressing-room in due time ; that the room is dusted and cleaned ;
that the washhand-ewer is filled with soft water ; and that the bath, whether
hot or cold, is ready when required ; that towels are at hand ; that hair-
brushes and combs are properly cleansed, and in their places ; that hot water
is ready at the hour ordered ; the dressing-gown and slippers in their place,
the clean linen aired, and the clothes to be worn for tho day in their proper
places. After the master has dressed, it wi*-be the footman’s duty to restore
everything to its place properly cleansed and dry, and the whole restored to
order.

2183. At breakfast, when there is no butler, the footman carries up tho tea-
urn, and, assisted by the housemaid, he waits during breakfast. Breakfast over,
he removes tho tray and other things off tho table, folds up the breakfast-
cloth, and sets the room in order, by sweeping up all crumbs, shaking tho
cloth, and laying it on the table again, making up tho fire, and sweeping up
the hearth.

2184. At luncheon-time nearly the same routine is observed, except where
the footman is either out with the carnage or away on other business, when,
in tho absence of any butler, the housemaid must assist.

DUTIES OF THE FOOTMAN.

937

21S5. For dinner, the footman lays the cloth, taking care that the table is
not too near tho firo, if there is ono, and that passage-room is left. A table-
cloth should be laid without a- wrinkle ; and this requires two persons : ovor
this the slips are laid, which are usually removed preparatory to placing
dessert on the table. He prepares knives, forks, and glasses, with five or six
plates for each person. This done, he places chairs enough for the party,
distributing them equally on each side of the table, and opposite to each
a napkin neatly folded, within it a piece of bread or small roll, and a
knife on the right side of each plate, a fork on the left, and a carving-knife
and fork at the top and bottom of the table, outside the others, with the rests
opposite to them, and a gravy-spoon beside the knife. The fish-slice should
be at the top, where the lady of the house, with the assistance of the gentle-
man next to her, divides the fish, and the soup-ladle at the bottom : it is some-
times usual to add a dessert-knife and fork ; at the same time, on the right
side also of each plate, put a wine-glass for as many kinds of wine as it is in-
tended to hand round, and a finger-glass or glass-cooler about four inches from
tho edge. The latter are frequently put on the table with the dessert.

2186. About half an hour before dinner, he rings the dinner-bell, where that
is the practice, and occupies himself with carrying up everything he is likely
to require. At the expiration of the time, having communicated with the
cook, he rings the real dinner-bell, and proceeds to take it up with such assist-
ance as he can obtain. Having ascertained that all is in order,, that his own
dress is clean and presentable, and his white cotton gloves are without a stain,
he announces in the drawing-room that dinner is served, and stands respect-
fully by the door until the company arc seated : he places himself on the left,
behind his master, who is to distributo the soup ; where soup and fish are
served together, his place will be at his mistress’s left hand ; but he must
be on the alert to see that whoever is assisting him, whether male or female,
are at their posts. If any of the guests has brought his own servant with him,
his place is behind his master’s chair, rendering such assistance to others as he
can, while attending to his master’s wants throughout the dinner, so that every
guest has what he requires. This . necessitates both activity and intelligence,
and should be done without bustle, without asking any questions, oxcept where
it is tho custom of the house to hand round dishes or wine, when it will be
necessary to mention, in a quiet and unobtrusive manner, the dish or wine
you present.

2187. , Salt-cellars should be placed on the table in number sufficient for the guests, so
that each may help themselves, or, at least, their immediate neighbours.

Dinnebs a la Kusse.

2188. In some houses tho table is laid out with plate and glass, and ornamented with
flowers, the dessert only being placed on the tabic, the dinner itself being placed on the
sideboard, and handed round in succession, in courses of soup, Ush, entrees, meat, game,
and sweets. This is not only elegant but economical, as fewer dishes are required, the
symmetry of the table being made up with the ornaments and dessert. The various dishes
are also handed round when hot; but it involves additional and superior attendance, as
the wines are also handed round ; and unless tho servnnts are very active and intelligent,
many blunders are likely to be made; (Sec p. 951.)

008

HOUSEHOLD IIAXAGEUEXT.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

2189. While attentive to all, the footman should bo obtrusive to none ; ho
should give nothing but on a waiter, and always hand it with the left hand
and on the left sido of the person ho serves, and hold it so that the guest
may take it with ease. In lifting dishes from the table, ho should use both
hands, and remove them with care, so that nothing is spilt on the table-cloth
or on the dresses of tho guests.

219a Masters as well as servants sometimes make mistakes ; but it is not
expected that a servant will correct any omissions, even if he should have time to
notice them, although with the best intentions : thus it would not bo correct,
for instance, if he observed that his master took wine with the ladies all round,
as some gentlemen still continue to do, but stopped at some one : — to nudge
him on the shoulder and say, as was done by the servant of a Scottish gcntlo-
man, “What ails you at her in the green gown ? ” It will bo better to leave
the lady unnoticed than for the servant thus to turn his master into ridicule.

2191. During dinner each person’s knife, fork, plate, and spoon should bo
changed as soon as he has done with it ; tho vegetables and sauces belonging
to the different dishes presented without remark to the guests ; and the foot-
man should tread lightly in moving round, and, if possible, should bear in
mind, if there is a wit or humorist of the party, whoso good things keep the
table in a roar, that they are not expected to reach his ears.

2192. In opening wine, let it be done quietly, and without shaking the bottle; if
crusted, let it be inclined to the crusted side, and decanted while in that position. In
opening champagne, it is not necessary to discharge it with a pop ; properly cooled, tho
cork is easily extracted without an explosion ; when tho cork i3 out, the mouth of tho
bottle should be wiped with the napkin over the footman's arm.

2193. At the end of the first course, notice is conveyed to the cook, who is
waiting to send up the second, which is introduced in the same way as before ;
the attendants who remove the fragments, carrying the dishes from tho kitchen,
and handing them to the footman or butler, whoso duty it is to arrange them
on the table. After dinner, the dessert-glasses and wines arc placed on tho
table by the footman, who places himself behind his master's chair, to supply
wine and hand round the ices and other refreshments, all other servants
leaving the room.

2194. As soon as the drawing-room bell rings for tea, the footman enters with
the tray, which has been previously prepared ; hands tho tray round to tho
company, with cream and sugar, the tea and coffee being generally poured out,
while another attendant hands cakes, toast, or biscuits. If it is an ordinary
family party, where this social meal is prepared by the mistress, he carries tho
urn or kettle, as the case may bo ; hands round the toast, or such other eatable
as may bo required, removing the whole in the same manner when tea is over.

DUTIES OP THE FOOTMAN.

969

2195. After each meal, the footman’s place is in his pantry : here perfect order should
prevail — a place for everything and everything in its place. A sink, with hot and cold
water laid on, is very desirable, — cold absolutely necessary. Wooden bowls or tubs of
sufficient capacity are required, one for hot and another for cold water. Have the bowl
three parts full of clean hot water ; in this wash all plate and plated articles which arc
greasy, wiping them before cleaning with the brush.

2196. The footman in small families, where only one man is kept, has many of the
duties of the upper servants to perform ns well as his own, aud more constant occu-
pation ; he will also have the arrangement of his time more immediately under his
own control, and he will do well to reduce it to a methodical division. All his rough
work should be done before breakfast is ready, when he must appear clean, and in a
presentable state. After breakfast, when everything belonging to his pantry is cleaned
and put in its place, the furniture in the dining and drawing rooms requires rubbing.
Towards noon, the parlour luncheon is to be prepared; and he must be at his mistress’s
disposal to go out with the carriage, or follow her if she walks out.

2197. Glass is a beautiful and most fragile article: hence it requires great care in
washing. A perfectly clean wooden bowl is best for this operation, one for moderately
hot and another for cold water. Wash the glasses well in the first and rinse them in
the second, and turn them down on a linen cloth folded two or three times, to drain
for a few minutes. When sufficiently drained, wipe them with a cloth and polish with
a finer one, doing so tenderly and carefully. Accidents will happen; but nothing dis-
credits a servant iu the drawing-room more than continual reports of breakages, which,
of course, must reach that region.

2198. Decanters and water-jugs require still more tender treatment in cleaning, inas-
much as they are more costly to replace. Fill them about two-thirds with hot but not
boiling water, and put in a few pieces of well-soaped brown paper ; leave them thus for
two or three hours ; then shake the water up and down in the decanters ; empty this out,
rinse them well with clean cold water, and put them in a rack to drain. When dry,
poh'sh them outside aud inside, ns far as possible, with a fine cloth. To remove the crust
of port or other wines, add a little muriatic acid to the water, and let it remain for some
time.

2199. When required to go out with the carriage, it is the footman’s duty
to see that it has come to the door perfectly clean, and that the glasses, and
sashes, and linings, arc free from dust. In receiving messages at the carriage
door, he should turn his ear to the speaker, so as to comprehend what is said,
in order that he may give his directions to the coachman clearly. When the
house he is to call at is reached, he should knock, and return to the carriage
for orders. In closing the door upon the family, ho should see that the
handle is securely turned, and that no part of the ladies’ dress is shut in.

2200. It is the footman’s duty to carry messages or letters for his master
or mistress to their friends, to the post, or to the tradespeople ; and
nothing is more important than dispatch and exactness in doing so, although
writing even the simplest message is now the ordinary and very proper prac-
tice. Dean Swift, among his other quaint directions, all of which are to bo
read by contraries, recommends a perusal of all such epistles, in order that
you may be the more able to fulfil your duty to your master. An old lady of
Forfarshire had one of those odd old Caleb Balderston sort of servants, who
construed the Dean of St. Patrick more literally. On one occasion, when
dispatch was of some importance, knowing his inquiring nature, she called
her Scotch Paul Pry to her, opened the note, and read it to him herself,
saying, “ Now, Andrew, you ken a’ aboot it, and needna’ stop to open and
read it, but just take it at once.” Probably most of the notes you are
expected to carry might, with equal harmlessness, bo communicated to you ;
but it will be better not to take so lively an interest in your mistress’s affairs.

970 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

1101. Politeness and civility to visitors is ono of tho things masters and
mistresses have a right to expect, and should exact rigorously. When visitors
present themselves, tho servant charged with tho duty of opening the door *
will open it promptly, and answer, without hesitation, if tho family are “not '
at homo,” or “ engaged which generally means tho same thing, and might
bo oftener used with advantage to morals. On tho contrary, if he has no such
orders, he will answer affirmatively, open tho door wide, to admit them, and
precede them to open the door- of the drawing-room. If the family are not
there, he will place chairs for them, open the blinds (if the room is too dark),
and intimate civilly that he goes to inform his mistress. If the lady is in her
drawing-room, he announces tho name of the visitors, having previously
acquainted himself with it. In this part of his duty it is necessary to be very
careful to repeat the names correctly ; mispronouncing names is very apt to
give offence, and leads sometimes to other disagreeables. The writer was
once initiated into some of the secrets on the “other side ” of a legal affair in
which he took an interest, before he could correct a mistake made by the •
servant in announcing him. When the visitor is departing, the servant should j
be at hand, ready, when rung for, to open the doer ; he should open it with ;
a respectful manner, and close it gently when the visitors are fairly beyond
the threshold. When several visitors arrive together, he should take care not
to mix up the different names together, where they belong to the same
family, as Mr., Mrs., and Miss; if they are strangers, he should announce each
as distinctly as possible.

2202. Receptions and Evening Parties. — The drawing-rooms being prepared,
the card-tables laid out with cards and counters, and such other arrangements
as are necessary made for the reception of the company, the rooms should
be lighted up as the hour appointed approaches. Attendants in the drawing-
room, even more than in the dining-room, should move about actively but
noiselessly ; no creaking of shoes, which is au abomination ; watching the
lights from time to time, so as to keep up their brilliancy. But even if
the attendant likes a game of cribbage or whist himself, he must not inter-
fere in his master or mistress’s game, nor even seem to take an interest in it.
We once knew a lady who had a footman, and both were fond of a game of
cribbage, — John in the kitchen, the lady in her drawing-room. The lady was
a giver of evening parties, where she frequently enjoyed her favourite amuse-
ment. While handing about the tea and toast, John could not always sup-
press his disgust at her mistakes. “ There is more in that hand, ma’am,” ho
has been known to say ; or, “ Ma’am, you forgot to count his nob ; ” in fact,
he identified himself with his mistress’s game, and would have lost twenty
places rather than witness a miscount. It is not necessary to adopt his
example on this point, although John had many qualities a good servant
might copy with advantage.

•671

THE COACHHOUSE AND STABLES.

2203. The Hoese is the noblest of quadrupeds, whether we view him in his strength, his
sagacity, or his beauty. He is also the most useful to man of all the animal creation ; but
his delicacy is equal to his power and usefulness. No other animal, probably, is so de-
pendent on man in the state of domestication to which he has been reduced, or deterio-
rates so rapidly under exposure, bad feeding, or bad grooming. It is, therefore, a point
of humanity, not to speak of its obvious impolicy, for the owner of horses to overlook any
neglect in their feeding or grooming. His interest dictates that so valuable an animal
should be well housed, well fed, and well groomed; ancl he will do well to acquire so
much of stable lore as will enable him to judge of these points himself. In a general way,
where a horse's coat is habitually rough and untidy, there is a sad want of elbow-grease
in the stable. When a horse of tolerable breeding is dull and spiritless, he is getting ill
or badly fed; and where he is observed to perspire much in the stables, is overfed, and
probably eats his litter in addition to his regular supply of food.

2201. Stables. — The architectural form of the stables will be subject to other influences
than ours ; we confine ourselves, therefore, to their internal arrangements. They should be
roomy in proportion to the number of stalls ; warm, with good ventilation, and perfectly
free from cold draughts ; the stalls roomy, without excess, with good and well-trapped
drainage, so as to exclude bad smells ; a sound ceiling to prevent the entrance of dust from
the hayloft, which is usually above them ; and there should be plenty of light, coming,
however, either from above or behind, so as not to glare in the horse’s eye.

2205. Seat.— -The first of these objects is attained, if the stables are kept within a degree
or two of 50° in winter, and 60° in summer ; although some grooms insist on a much higher
temperature, in the interests of their own labour.

2206. Ventilation is usually attained by the insertion of one or more tubes or boxes of
wood or iron through the ceiling and the roof, with a sloping covering over the opening, to
keep out rain, and valves or ventilators below to regulate the atmosphere, with openings
in the walls for the admission of fresh air : this is still a difficulty, however ; for the dilu-
vium of the stable is difficult to dispel, and draughts must be avoided. This is sometimes
accomplished by means of hollow walls with gratings at the bottom outside, for the exit
of bad air, which is carried down through the hollow walls and discharged at the bottom,
while, for the admission of fresh air, the reverse takes place ; the fresh by this means gets
diffused and heated before it is discharged into the stable.

2207. The Stalls should be divided by partitions of wood-work eight or nine feet high
at the head and six at the heels, and nine feet deep, so as to separate each horse from
its neighbour. A hay -rack placed within easy reach of the horse, of wood or iron, occu-
pies either a corner or the whole breadth of the stall, which should be about six feet for
an ordinary-sized horse. A manger, formerly of wood, but of late years more generally
of iron lined with enamel, occupies a corner of the stall. The pavement of the stall
should be nearly level, with a slight incline towards the gutter, to keep the bed dry,
paved with hard Dutch brick laid on edge, or asphalte, or smithy clinkers, or rubble-
stones, laid in strong cement. In the centre, about five feet from the wall, a grating
should be firmly fixed in the pavement, and in communication with a well-trapped drain
to carry off the water ; the gutter outside the stall should also communicate with the
drains hy trapped openings. The passage between the stall and the hall should be from
five to six feet broad at least; on the wall, opposite to each stall, pegs should bo placed
for receiving the harness and other things in daily use.

2203. A Harness-room is indispensable to every stable. It should be dry and airy,
and furnished with a fireplace and boiler, both for tho protection of the harness and to
prepare mashes for tho horses when required. The partition-wall should be boarded
where the harness goes, with pegs to hang the various pieces of harness on, with saddle-
trees to rest the saddles on, a cupboard for the brushes, sponges, and leathers, and a lock-
up corn-bin.

2209. The furniture of a stable with coachhouse, consists of coach-mops, jacks for
raising the wheels, horse-brushes, spoke-brushes, water-brushes, crest and bit-brushes,
dandy-brushes, currycombs, birch and heath brooms, trimming-combs, scissors and
pickers, oil-cans and brushes, harness-brushes of three sorts, leathers, sponges for horso
and carriage, stable-forks, dung-baskets or wheelbarrow, corn-sieves and measures,
horse-cloths and stable pails, horn or glass lanterns. Over the stables there should be
accommodation for the coachman or groom to sleep. Accidents sometimes occur, a:.d
he should be at hand to interfere.

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

L'72

DUTIES OE THE COACHMAN, GROOM, AND
STABLE-BOY.

2210. The jEslallishncnt wo have in view will consist of coachman, groom, J
and stable-boy, who arc capable of keeping in perfect order four horses, and I
perhaps the pony. Of this establishment tho coachman is chief. Besides skill tl
in driving, ho should possess a good general knowledge of horses ; he has I
usually to purchase provender, to see that the horses are regularly fed and I
properly groomed, watch over their condition, apply simple remedies to trifling 1
ailments in the animals under his charge, and report where he observes
symptoms of more serious ones which he does not understand. He has either J
to clean the carriage himself, or see that tho stable-boy docs it properly.

2211. The Groom’s first duties are to keep his horses in condition; but he is |
sometimes expected to perform the duties of a valet, to ride out with his I
master, on occasions, to wait at table, and otherwise assist in the house : 1
in these cases, he should have the means of dressing himself, and keeping ki3 J
clothes entirely away from the stables. In the morning, about six o’clock, or
rather before, the stables should be opened and cleaned out, and the horses
fed, first by cleaning the rack and throwing in fresh hay, putting it lightly in
thoracic, that the horses may get it out easily ; a short time afterwards their
usual morning feed of oats should be put into the manger. While this is going
on, the stable-boy has been removing the stable-dung, and sweeping and wash-
ing out tho stables, both of which should be done every day, and every corner
carefully swept, in order to keep the stable sweet and clean. The real duties of
the groom follow : where the horses are not taken out for early exercise, the
work of grooming immediately commences. “Having tied up the head,” to
use the excellent description of the process given by old Barrett, “take a
currycomb and curry him all over the body, to raise the dust, beginning first
at the neck, holding the left cheek of the headstall in the left hand, and curry
him from the setting-on of his head all over the body to the buttocks, down to
the point of the hock ; then change your hands, and curry him before, on his
breast, and, laying your right arm over his back, join your right side to his
left, and curry him all under the belly near the fore-bowels, and so all over
from the knees and back upwards ; after that, go to the far side and do that
likewise. Then take a dead horse’s tail, or, failing that, a cotton dusting-
cloth, and strike that away which the currycomb hath raised. Then take a
round brush made of bristles, with a leathern handle, and dress him all over,
both head, body, and legs, to tho very fetlocks, always cleansing the brush
from the dust by rubbing it with tho currycomb. In the curry-combing
process, as well as brushing, it must be applied with mildness, especially with
fine-skinned horses ; otherwise the tickling irritates them much. Tho brushing

is succeeded by a hair-cloth, with which rub him all over again very hard,
both to take away loose hairs and lay his coat ; then wash your hands in fair
water, and rub him all over while thoy are wet, as well over the head as tho
body. Lastly, take a cloan cloth, and rub him all over again till he bo dry ;

DUTIES OP THE COACHMAN, ETC.

973

then take another hair-cloth, and rub all his legs exceeding well from the knees
and hocks downwards to his hoofs, picking and dressing them very carefully
about tho fetlocks, so as to remove all gravel and dust which will sometimes
lie in the bending of the joints.” In addition to the practice of this old writer,
modern grooms add- wisping, which usually follows brushing. The best wisp
is made from a hayband, untwisted, and again doubled up after being mois-
tened with water : this is applied to every part of tho body, as the brushing
had been, by changing the hands, taking care in all these operations to carry
the hand in the direction of the coat. Stains on the hair are removed by
■Sponging, or, when the coat is very dirty, by the water-brush ; the whole being
finished off by a linen or flannel cloth. The horsecloth should now be put on
by taking the cloth in both hands, with the outside next you, and, with your
right hand to the off side, throw it over his back, placing it no farther
back than will leave it straight and level, which will be about a foot from
the tail. Put the roller round, and the pad-piece under it, about six or eight
inches from the fore legs. The horse’s head is now loosened ; he is turned
about in his stall to have his head and ears rubbed and brushed over every
part, including throat, with the dusting-cloth, finishing by “pulling his ears,”
which all horses seem to enjoy very much. This done, the mane and foretop
should be combed out, passing a wet sponge over them, sponging the mane on
both sides, by throwing it back to the midriff, to make it lie smooth. The horse
is now returned to his headstall, his tail combed out, cleaning it of stains with a
wet brush or sponge, trimming both tail and mane, and forelock when necessary,
smoothing them down with a brush on which a little oil has been dropped.

2212. 'Watering usually follows dressing ; but some horses refuse tlieir food until they
have drunk : the groom should not, therefore, lay down exclusive rules on this subject,
but study the temper and habits of his horse.

2213. Exercise. — All horses notin work require at least two hours’ exercise daily; and
in exercising them a good groom will put them through the paces to which they have
been trained. In the case of saddle-horses he will walk, trot, canter, and gallop them, in
order to keep them up to their work. With draught horses they ought to be kept up to
a smart walk and trot.

2214. Feeding must depend on their work, but they require feeding three times a day,
with more or less corn each time, according to their work. In the fast coaching days’it
was a saying among proprietors, that “ his belly was the measure of his food but the
horse’s appetite is not to be taken as a criterion of the quantity of food under any circum-
stances. Horses have been known to consume 40 lbs. of hay iu twenty-four hours, whereas
16 lbs. to 18 lbs. is the utmost which should have been given. Mr. Croall, an extensivo
coach proprietor in Scotland, limited his horses to 441bs. cut straw, 8 lbs. bruised oats,
and 24 lbs. bruised beans, in the morning and noon, giving them at night 25 lbs. of the
following; Tiz., 560 lbs. steamed potatoes, 36 lbs. barley-dust, 40 lbs. cut straw, and 6 lbs.
salt, mixedup together : under this the horses did their work well. The ordinary measure
given to a horse is a peck of oats, about 40 lbs. to the bushel, twice a day, a third feed
and a rack-ful of hay, which may be about 15 lbs. or 18-lbs., when he is in full work.

2215. You cannot take up a paper without having the question put, “ Do you bruise
your oats ?" Well, that depends on circumstances: a fresh young horse can bruise its
own oats when it can get them ; but aged horses, after a time, lose the power of masti-
cating and bruising them, and bolt them whole ; thus much impeding the work of diges-
tion. for an old horse, then, bruise the oats ; for a young one it does no harm and little
good. Oats should be bright and dry, and not too new. Where they are new, sprinkle
them with salt and water ; otherwise, they overload the horse's stomach. Chopped straw-
mixed with oats, in the proportion of a third of straw or hay, is a good food for horses
in full work ; and carrots, of which horses are remarkably fond, have a perceptible effect
in a short time on the gloss of the coat.

974

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

221G. The water given to ahorse merits some attention ; it should not be too cold*
hard water is not to be recommended ; stagnant or muddy water is positively injurious;
river water is the best for all purposes ; and anything is preferable to spring water, which
shoidd bo exposed to the sun in summer for an hour or two, and stirred up before using
it : a handful of oatmeal thrown into the pail will much improve its quality.

2217. Shoeing. — A horse should not be sent on a journey or any other hard wort imme-
diately after new shoeing;— the stiffness incidental to new shoes is not unlikely to brin®
him down. A day’s rest, with reasonable exercise, will not bo thrown away after this
operation. On reaching homo very hot, the groom should walk him about for a few
minutes ; this done, he should take off the moisture with the scraper, and afterwards wisp
him over with a handful of straw and a flannel cloth : if the cloth is dipped in some spirit,
all the better. He should wash, pick, and wipe dry the legs and feet, t ake off the bridle
and crupper, and fasten it to the rack, then the girths, and put a wisp of Btraw under the
saddle. When sufficiently cool, the horse should have some hay given him, and then a
feed of oats : if he refuse the latter, offer him a little wet bran, or a handful of oatmeal
in tepid water. When he has been fed, he should be thoroughly cleaned, and his body-
clothes put on, and, if very much harassed with fatigue, a little good ale or wine will be
well bestowed on a valuable horse, adding plenty of fresh litter under the belly.

2218. Bridles. — Every time ahor3e is unbridled, the bit should be carefully washed and
dried, and the leather wiped, to keep them sweet, as well as the girths and saddle, the
latter being carefully dried and beaten with a switch before it is again put on. In wash-
ing a horse’s feet after a day’s work, the master should insist upon the legs and feet being
washed thoroughly with a sponge until the water flows over them, and then rubbed with
a brush till quite dry.

2219. Harness, if not carefully preserved, very soon gets a shabby tarnished appearance.
Where the coachman has a proper harness-room and sufficient assistance, this is in-
excusable nud easily prevented. The harness-room should have a wooden lining all
round, andbe perfectly dry and well ventilated. Around the walls, hooks and pegs should
be placed, for the several pieces of harness, at such a height as to prevent their touching
the ground ; and every part of the harness should have its peg or hook,— one for the
halters, another for the reins, and others for snaffles and other bits and metal-work ; and
either a wooden horse or saddle-trees for the saddles and pads. All these parts should be
dry, clean, and sliiniug. This is only to be done by careful cleaning and polishing, and the
use of several requisite pastes. The metallic parts, when white, should be cleaned by a
soft brush and plate-powder ; the copper and brass parts burnished with rottenstone-
powder and oil, — steel with emery -powder; both made into a paste with a little oil.

2220. An excellent paste for polishing harness and the leather-work of carriages, is
made by melting 8 lbs. of yellow wax, stirring it till completely dissolved. Into this pour
1 lb. of litharge of the shops, which has been pounded up with water, and dried and sifted
through a sieve, leaving the two, when mixed, to simmer on the fire, stirring them con-
tinually till all is melted. When it is a little cool, mix this with lb. of good ivory-black ;
place this again on the Are, and stir till it boils anew, and suffer it to cool. When cooled a
little, add distilled turpentine till it has the consistence of a thickish paste, scenting it
with any essence at hand, thinning it when necessary from timo to time, by adding dis-
tilled turpentine.

2221. When the leather is old and greasy, it should be cleaned before applying this
polish, with a brush wetted in a weak solution of potass and water, washing afterwards
with soft river water, and drying thoroughly. If the leather is not black, one or two
coats of black ink may be given before applying the polish. When quite dry, the varnish
should be laid on with a soft shoe-brush, using also a soft brush to polish the leather.

2222. When the leather is very old, it may be softened with flsh-oil, and, after putting
on the ink, a sponge charged with distilled turpentine passed over, to scour the surface
of the leather, which should be polished as above.

2223. For fawn or yellow-coloured leather, take a quart of skimmed milk, pour into it
1 oz. of sulphuric acid, and, when cold, add to it 4oz. of hydrochloric acid, shaking the
bottle gently until it ceases to emit white vapours ; separate the coagulated from the
liquid part, by straining through a sieve, and 6tore it away till required. In applying it,
clean the leather by a weak solution of oxalic acid, washing it off immediately, aud apply
the composition when dry with a sponge.

2221. IVhcel-grcase is usually purchased at the shops ; but n good paste is made as
follows: — Melt' 80 parts of greaso, and Btir into it, mixing it thoroughly and smoothly,
20 parts of line blaok-lead in powder, nnd store away in a tin box for use. This grease is
used in the mint at l’aris, and is highly approved.

DUTIES OE THE COACHMAN, ETC,

975

2225. Carriages in an endless variety of shapes and names are oontinually making their
appearance ; but the hackney cab or clarence seems most in request lor light carriages ;
the family carriage of the day being a modified form of the clarence adapted for family
use The carriage is a valuable piece of furniture, requiring all the care of the most
delicate upholstery, with the additional disadvantage of continual exposure to the weather
and to the muddy streets.

2226. It requires, therefore, to be carefully cleaned before putting away,
and a coach house perfectly dry and well ventilated, for the wood- work swells
with moisture ; it sin-inks also with heat, unless the timber has undergone a
long course of seasoning : it should also have a dry floor, a boarded one being
recommended. It must be removed from the ammoniacal influence of the
stables, from open drains and cesspools, and other gaseous influences likely to
affect the paint and varnish. When the carriage returns home, it should be
carefully washed and dried, and that, if possible, before the mud has time to
dry on it. This is done by first well slushing it with clean water, so as to
wash away all particles of sand, having first closed the sashes to avoid wetting
the linings. The body is then gone carefully over with a soft mop, using
plenty of clean water, and penetrating into every comer of the carved work,
so that not an atom of dirt remains ; the body of the carriage is then raised
by placing the jack under the axletree and raising it so that the wheel turns
freely ; this is now thoroughly washed with the mop until the dirt is removed,
using a water-brush for corners where the mop does not penetrate. Every
particle of mud and sand removed by the mop, and afterwards with a wet
sponge, the carriage is wiped dry, and, as soon after as possible, the varnish is
carefully polished with soft leather, using a little sweet oil for the leather
parts, and even for the panels, so as to check any tendency of the varnish to
crack. Stains are removed by rubbing them with the leather and sweet oil;
if that fails, a little Tripoli powder mixed with the oil will be more successful.

2227. in preparing the carriage for use, the whole body should be rubbed
over with a clean leather and carefully polished, the iron- work and joints oiled,
the plated and brass-work occasionally cleaned, — the one with plate-powder,
or with well-washed whiting mixed with sweet oil, and leather kept for the pur-
pose,— the other with rottenstone mixed with a little oil, and applied without
too much rubbing, until the paste is removed ; but, if rubbed every day with
the leather, little more will be required to keep it untarnished. The linings
require careful brushing every day, the cushions being taken out and beaten,
and the glass sashes should always be bright and clean. The wheel-tires and
axletree are carefully seen to, and greased when required, the bolts and nuts
tightened, and all the parts likely to get out of order overhauled.

2228. These duties, however, are only incidental to the coachman’s office,
which is to drive ; and much of the enjoyment of those in the carriage depends
on his proficiency in his art,— much also of the wear of the carriage and horses.
Ho should have sufficient knowledge of the construction of the carriage to
know when it is out of order, — to know, also, the paco at which he can go over
the road he has under him, without risking the springs, and without shaking
those he is driving too much.

070

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

2229. Having, with or without tlio help of tho groom or stablo-boy, put his j
horsos to tho carriage, and satisfied himself, by walking round them, that
everything is properly an-anged, tho coachman proceeds to the off-side of the
carriage, takes tho reins from tho back of tho horses, whore they were thrown,
buckles them together, and, placing his foot on tho step, ascends to his box, 1
having his horses now entirely under control. In ordinary circumstances, :
he is not expected to descend, for where no footman accompanies the carriage,
tho doors are usually so arranged that even a lady may let herself out, j
if she wishes it, from the insido. Tho coachman’s duties are to avoid j
everything approaching an accident, and all his attention is required to i
guide his horses.

2230. The pace at which ho drives will depend upon his orders,— in All probability a 1
moderate pace of seven or eight miles an hour; less speed is injurious to the horses, (
getting them into lazy and sluggish habits; for it ri wonderful hew soon these are |
acquired by some horses. Tho writer was once employed k, pi;rjha«e a h -rse for a 1
country friend, and I10 picked a very handsome gelding out of Collins's stables, which I
seemed to answer to his friend’s wants. It was duly committed to the coachman who |i
was to drive it, after some very successful trials in harness and out of it, and seemed
likely to give great satisfaction. After a time, tho friend got tired of his carriage, and 11
gave it up ; as the easiest mode of getting rid of the horso, it was sent up to the writer’s I
stables,— a present. Only twelve months had elapsed ; the homo was as handsome as ;
ever, with plenty of flesh, and a sleek glossy coat, and ho was thankfully enough received ;
hut, on trial, it was found that a stupid coachman, who wa9 imbued with one of their old
maxims, that “ it's the pace that, kills,” had driven the horse, capable of doinjj his nine
miles an hour with case, at a jog-trot of four miles, or four and a half ; and now, no

Eersuasion of the whip could get more out of him. After many unsuccessful efforts to ;

ring him hack to his pace, in ono of which a break-down occurred, under the hands of a
professional trainer, he was sent to the hammer, and sold for a sum'that did not pay for
the attempt to break him in. This maxim, therefore, “ that it’s the pace tbatkill3,” is ■
altogether fallacious in the moderate sense in which we are viewing it. In the old coaching
days, indeed, when the Shrewsbury “Wonder” drove into the inn yard while the clock .
was striking, week after week and month after month, with unerring regularity, twenty- •
seven hours to a hundred and sixty-two miles ; when the “ Quicksilver ” mail was timed
to eleven miles an hour between London and Plymouth, with a fine of £5 to the driver r
if behind time; when the Brighton “Age,” “tool'd” and homed by tho lato
Mr. Stevenson, used to dash round the square as the fifth hour was striking, having
stopped at the half-way house while his servant handed a sandwich and a glass of
sherry to his passengers, — then the pace was indeed “ killing." But tho truth is, horses
that are driven at a jog-trot pace lose that elan with which a good driver can inspire
them, and they are left to do their work by mere weight and muscle ; therefore, unless ■
he has contrary orders, a good driver will choose a smart pace, but not enough to
make his horses perspire : ou level roads this should never be seen.

2231. In choosing his horseB, every master will see that they are properly paired, — that
their paces are about equal. When their habits differ, it is the coachman’s duty to
discover how he can, with least annoyance to the horses, get that pace out of them.
Some horses have been accustomed to ha driven on the check, and the curb irritates
them; others, with harder mouths, cannot bo controlled with the slight leverage this-
affords ; he must, therefore, accommodate the horses as he best cnu. The reins should
always he held so that the horses are “ in hand ;" but he is a very bad driver who always,
drives with a tight rein ; the pain to the horse is intolerable, and causes him to rear and
plunge, and finally break away, if he can. He is also a bad driver when the reins are
always slack; the horse then feels abandoned to himself; he is neither directed nor ■
supported, and if no accident occurs, it is groat good luck.

2232. The true coachman’s hands are so delicate and gentle, that the mere
weight of tho reins is felt on the bit, and the directions are indicated by a
turn of the wrist rather than by a pull ; the horses are guided and encouraged,
and only pulled up when they exceed their intended pace, or in tho event of a
stumble ; for there is a strong though gentle hand on tho reins.

DUTIES OF THE VALET.

977

■2233. The Whip, in the hands of a good driver, and with well-bred cattle,
is there, more as a precaution than a “ tool” for frequent use ] if he uses it, it
is to encourage, by stroking the flanks ; except, indeed, he has to punish some
waywardness of temper, and then he does it effectually, taking care, however,
that it is done on the flank, where there is no very tender part, never on the
crupper. In driving, the coachman should never give way to temper. How
often do we see horses stumble from being conducted, or at least “allowed,”
to go over bad ground by some careless driver, who immediately wreaks that
vengeance on the poor horse which might, with much more justice, be applied
to his own brutal shoulders. The whip is of course useful, and even necessary,
but should be rarely used, except to encourage and excite the horses.

DUTIES OF THE VALET.

2234. Attendants on the Pel-son. — “No man is a hero to his valet,” saithtke
proverb; and the corollary may run, “ No lady is a heroine to her maid.” The
infirmities of humanity are, perhaps, too numerous and too equally distributed
to stand the severe microscopic tests which attendants on the person have
opportunities of applying. The valet and waiting-maid are placed near the
persons of the master and mistress, receiving orders only from them, dressing
them, accompanying them in all their journeys, the confidants and agents
of their most unguarded moments, of their most secret habits, and of course
subject to their commands, — even to their caprices ; they themselves being
subject to erring judgraont, aggravated by an imperfect education. All that
can be expected from such servants is polite manners, modest demeanour,
aqd a respectful reserve, which are indispensable. To these, good sense,
good temper, some self-denial, and consideration for the feelings of others,
whether above or below them in the social scale, will be useful qualifications.
Their duty leads them to wait on those who are, from sheer wealth, station,
and education, more polished, and consequently more susceptible of annoy-
ance ; and any vulgar familiarity of manner is opposed to all their notions of
self-respect. Quiet unobtrusive manners, therefore, and a delicate reserve in
speaking of then- employers, either in praise or blame, is as essential in their
absence, as good manners and respectful conduct in their presence.

2235. Some of the duties of the valet we have just hinted at in treating of
the duties of the footman in a small family. His day commences by seeing
that his master’s dressing-room is in order ; that the housemaid has swept and
dusted it properly ; that the fire is lighted and burns cheerfully ; and some time
before his master ' is expected, he will do well to throw up the sash to admit
fresh air, closing it, however, in time to recover the temperature which he
knows his master prefers. It is now his duty to place the body-linen on the
horse before the fire, to bo aired properly ; to lay the trousers intended to be
worn, carefully brushod and cleaned, on the back of his master's chair ; while

3 n

97S

nOOSEIIOLD MANAGEMENT.

the coat and waistcoat, carefully brushed and folded, and the collar cleaned,
are laid in their place ready to put on when required. All the articles of the
toilet should bo in their places, the razors properly set and stropped, and hot
water ready for use.

■2236. Gentlemen generally prefer performing the operation of shaving them-
selves, but a valet should be prepared to do it if required ; and he should,
besides, be a good hairdresser. Shaving over, ho has to brush the hair,
beard, and moustache, where that ap^iendago is encouraged, arranging the
whole simply and gracefully, according to tho ago and style of countenance.
Every fortnight, or three weeks at tho utmost, tho hair should be cut, and the
points of the whiskers trimmed as often as required. A good valet will now
present the various articles of the toilet as they are wanted ; afterwards, the
body-linen, neck-tie, which he will put on, if required, and, afterwards, waist-
coat, coat, and boots, in suitable order, and carefully brushed and polished.

2237. Having thus seen his master dressed, if he is about to go out, the
valet will hand him his cane, gloves, and hat, the latter well brushed on the
outside with a soft brush, and wiped inside with a clean handkerchief, respect-
fully attend him to the door, and open it for him, and receive his last orders
for the day.

2238. He now proceeds to put everything in order in the dressing-room,
cleans the combs and brushes, and brushes and folds up any clothes that may
be left about the room, and puts them away in the drawers.

2239. Gentlemen are sometimes indifferent as to their clothes and appear-
ance ; it is the valet’s duty, in this case, where his master permits it, to select
from the wardrobe such things as are suitable for the occasion, so that he may
appear with scrupulous neatness and cleanliness ; that his linen and neck-tie,
where that is white or coloured, are unsoiled ; and where he is not accustomed
to change them every day, that the cravat is turned, and even ironed, to
remove the crease of tho previous fold. The coat collar, — which where tho
hah- is oily and worn long, is apt to get greasy — should also bo examined ; a
careful valet will correct this by removing the spots day by day as they appear,
first by moistening the grease-spots with a little rectified spirits of wine or
spirits of hartshorn, which has a renovating effect, and the smell of which soon
disappears. The grease is dissolved and removed by gentle scraping. The
grease removed, add a little more of the spirit, and rub with a piece of clean
cloth ; finish by adding a few drops more ; rub it with the pakn of the
hand, in the direction of tho grain of the cloth, and it will be clean and glossy
as the rest of the garment.

2240. Polish for tho boots is ail important matter to tho valet, and not always to bo
obtained good by purchase ; never so good, perhaps, as he can make for himself after tho
following recipes : — Take of ivory-black and treacle cacli 1 oz., sulphuric acid 1 oz., best
olive-oil2 spoonfuls, best white-wine vinegav3 half-pints : mix the ivory-black and treacle-
well in an curthen jar ; then add tho sulphuric acid, continuing to stir the mixture ; next
pour in tho oil ; and, luslly, add the vinegar, stirring it in by degrees, until thoroughly
incorporated.

DOTIES OF THE LADY’S-IIAID.

979

2241 . Another polish 19 made by mixing 1 oz.eacli of pounded galls and logwood-cliips,
and 3 11)9. of red French wine (ordinaire). Boil together till the liquid is reduced to
half the quantity, and pour it off through a strainer. Now take ^ lb. each of pounded
gum-arabic and lump-sugar, 1 oz. of green copperas, and 3 lbs. of brandy. Dissolve the
gum-arabic in the preceding deooction, and add the sugar and copperas : when all is dis-
solved and mixed together, stir in the brandy, mixing it smoothly. This mixture will
yield 5 or 6 lbs. of a very superior polishing paste for boots and shoes.

2242. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that having discharged all the
commissions intrusted to him by his master, such as conveying notes or
messages to friends, or the tradesmen, all of which he should punctually and
promptly attend to, it is his duty to be in waiting when his master returns
home to dress for dinner, or for any other occasion,, and to have all things
prepared for this second dressing. Previous to this, he brings under his notice
the cards of visitors who may have called, delivers tho messages he may have
received for him, and otherwise acquits himself of the morning’s commissions,
and receives his orders for the remainder of the day. The routine of his
evening duty is to have the dressing-room and study, where there is a separate
one, arranged comfortably for his master, the fires lighted, candles prepared,
dressing-gown and slippers in their place, and aired, and everything in order
that is required for his master’s comforts.

FEMALE DOMESTICS.

DUTIES OF THE LADY’S-MAID.

2243. The duties of a lady’s-maid are more numerous, and perhaps more
onerous, than those of the valet ; for while the latter is aided by tho tailor, the
hatter, the linen-draper, and the perfumer, the lady’s-maid has to originate
many parts of the mistress’s dress herself : she should, indeed, be a tolerably
expert milliner and dressmaker, a good hairdresser, and possess some chemical
knowledge of the cosmetics with which the toilet-table is supplied, in order to
use them with safety and effect. Her first duty in the morning, after having
performed her own toilet, is to examine the clothes put off by her mistress the
evening before, either to put them away, or to see that they are all in order to
put on again. During the winter, and in wet weather, the dresses should bo
carefully examined, - and the mud removed. Dresses of tweed, and other
woollen materials, may be laid out on a table and brushed all over ; but in
general, even in woollen fabrics, the lightness of the tissues renders brushing
unsuitable to dresses, and it is better to remove the dust from the folds by
beating them lightly with a handkerchief or thin cloth. Silk dresses should
never be brushed, but rubbed with a piece of merino, or other soft material,
of a similar colour, kept for the purpose. Summer dresses of barege, muslin,
mohair, and other light materials, simply require shaking ; but if the muslin
bo tumbled, it must bo ironed afterwards. If the dressos require slight
repair, it should be done at onco : “a stitch in time saves nine.”

3 n 2

9S0

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

2244. The bonnet should be dusted with a light feather plume, in order to remove every
particle of dust; but this has probably been done, as it ought to have been, the night
before. Velvet bonnets, and other velvet articles of dress, should be cleaned with a soft
brush. If the flowers with which the bonnet is decorated have been crushed or displaced, or
the leaves tumbled, they should be raised and readjusted by means of flower-pliers. If
feathers have suffered from damp, they should be held near the fire for a few minutes,
and restored to their natural state by the hand or a soft brush.

2245. The Cliausserie, or foot-gear of a lady, is one of the few things left to mark her
station, and requires special care. Satin boots or shoes should be dusted with a soft
brush, or wiped with a cloth. Kid or varnished leather should have the mud wiped off
with a sponge charged with milk, which preserves its softness and polish. The follow-
ing is also an excellent polish for applying to ladies’ boots, instead of blacking them
Mix equal proportions of sweet-oil, vinegar, and treacle, with 1 oz. of lamp-black. When
all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, rub the mixture on the boots with the
palm of the hand, and put them in a cool place to dry. Ladies’ blacking, which may bo
purchased in 6 d. and Is. bottles, is also very much used for patent leather and kid boots,
particularly when they are a little worn. This blacking is merely applied with a piece of
sponge, and the boots should not be put on until the blacking is dry and hardened.

2246. These various preliminary offices performed, the lady’s-maid should
prepare for dressing her mistress, arranging her dressing-room, toilet-table,
and linen, according to her mistress’s wishes and habits. The details of
dressing we need not touch upon, — every lady has her own mode of doing so ;
but the maid should move about quietly, perform any offices about her mis-
tress’s person, as lacing stays, gontly, and adjust her linen smoothly.

2247. Having prepared the dressing-room by lighting the fire, sweeping
the hearth, and made everything ready for dressing her mistress, placed her
linen before the fire to air, and laid out the various articles of dress she is to
wear, which will probably have been arranged the previous evening, the
lady’s-maid is prepared for the morning’s duties.

2248. Hairdressing is the most important part of the lady’s-maid’s office.
If ringlets are worn, remove the curl-papers, and, after thoroughly brushing
the back hair "both above and below, dress it according to the prevailing
fashion. If bandeaux are worn, the hair is thoroughly brushed and frizzed
outside and inside, folding the hair back round the head, brushing it
perfectly smooth, giving it a glossy appearance by the use of pomades, ox-
oil, applied by the palm of the hand, smoothing it down with a small brush
dipped in bandoline. Double bandeaux are formed by bringing most of the
hair forward, and i-olling it over frizettes made of hair the same colour as that
of the wearer : it is finished behind by plaiting the hail-, and arranging it in
such a manner as to look well with the head-dress.

2249. Lessons in hairdressing may be obtained, and at not an um-easonable
chai-ge. If a lady’s-maid can afford it, we would advise her to initiate herself
in the mysteries of hairdressing befoi-e entei-ing on her duties. If a misti-ess
finds her maid handy, and willing to learn, she will not mind the expenso
of a few lessons, which ai-e almost necessai-y, as the fashion and modo
of dressing the hair is so continually changing. Brushes and combs should
bo kept scrupulously clean, by washing them about twice a week : to do this
oftener spoils the brushes, as very frequent washing makes them so very soft.

DUTIES OP TIIE LADV’S-MAID.

931

To wash Brushes.

2i;o. Dissolve a piece of soda in some hot water, allowing a piece the sizo
of a walnut to a quart of water. Put the water into a basin, and, after comb-
ing out the hair from the brushes, dip them, bristles downwards, into the
water and out again, keeping the backs and handles as free from the water as
possible. Repeat this until the bristles look clean ; then rinse the brushes in a
little cold water ; shake them well, and wipe the handles and backs with a
towel, but not the h-istles, and set the brushes to dry in the sun, or near the
fire ; but take caro not to put them too close to it. Wiping* the bristles of a
bi-ush makes them soft, as does also the use of soap.

To clean Combs.

2251. If it can be avoided, never wash combs, as the water often makes the
teeth split, and the tortoiseshell or horn of which they are made, rough. Small
brushes, manufactured purposely for cleaning combs, may be purchased at a
trifling cost : with this the comb should be well brushed, and afterwards wiped
with a cloth or towel.

A good Wash for the Hair.

2252. Ingredients. — 1 pennyworth of borax, 1 pint of olive-oil, 1 pint of
boiling water.

Mode. — Pour the boiling water over the borax and oil ; let it cool ; then put
the mixture into a bottle. Shake it before using, and apply it with a flannel.
Camphor and borax, dissolved in boiling water and left to cool, make a very
good wash for the hair ; as also does rosemary-water mixed with a little boi'ax.
After using any of these washes, when the hah- becomes thoroughly dry, a
little pomatum or oil should be rubbed in, to make it smooth and glossy.

To make Pomade for the Hah'.

2253. Ingredients. — lb. of lard, 2 pennyworth of castor-oil ; scent.

Mode. — Let the lard be unsalted; beat it up well ; then add the castor-oil, and

mix thoroughly together with a knife, adding a few drops of any scent that may
be preferred. Put the pomatum into pots, which keep well covered to prevent
it turning rancid.

Another Recipe for Pomatum.

2254. Ingredients. — 8 oz. of olive-oil, 1 oz. of spermaceti, 3 pennyworth of
essential oil of almonds, 3 pennyworth of essence of lemon.

Mode. — Mix these ingredients together, and store away in jars for use.

To make Bandoline.

-255- Ingredients. — 1 oz. of gum-trngacanth, \ pint of cold water,
3 pennyworth of essence of almonds, 2 teaspoonfuls of old rum.

Mode. — Put the gum-tragacanth into a wide-mouthed bottle with the cold
water; let it stand till dissolved, then stir into it the essence of almonds ; lot
it remain for an hour or two, when pour the rum on the top. This should

982

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

make tlio stock bottlo, and when any is required for use, it is merely necessary
to dilute it with a little cold water until the desired consistency is obtained,
and to keep it in a small bottlo, well corked, for use. This bandoline, instead
of injuring the hair, as many other kinds often do, improves it, by increasing its
growth, and malting it always smooth and glossy.

An excellent Pomatum.

2256. Ingredients. — 1J lb. of lard, J pint of olive-oil, h pint of castor-oil,
4 oz. of spermaceti, bergamot, or any other scent; elder-flower water.

Mode. — Wash tho lard well in the elder- flower water ; drain, and beat it to
a cream. Mix the two oils together, and heat them sufficiently to dissolve tho
spermaceti, which should be beaten fino in a mortar. Mix all these ingredients
together with the brandy and whatever kind of scent may be preferred ; and
whilst warm pour into glass bottles for use, keeping them well corked. The
•best way to liquefy the pomatum is to set tho bottlo in a saucepan of warm
water. It will remain good for many months.

To promote the Growth of Hair.

2257. Ingredients. — Equal quantities of olive-oil and spirit of rosemary ;
a few drops of oil of nutmeg.

Mode. — Mix the ingredients together, rub the roots of the hair every night
with a little of this liniment, and the growth of it will very soon sensibly
increase.

2258. Our further remarks on dressing must be confined to some general advice.
In putting on a band, see that it is laid quite flat, and is drawn tightly round tho waist
before it is pinned in front ; that the pin is a strong one, and that it is secured to tho
Btays, so as not to slip up or down, or crease in the folds. Arrange the folds of the dress
over the crinoline petticoats ; if the dress fastens behind, put a small pin in the slit to
prevent it from opening. See that the sleeves fall well over the arms. If it is finished
with a jacket, or other upper dress, see that it fits smoothly under the arms ; pull out
the flounces, and spread out the petticoat at the bottom with tho hands, 60 that it falls in
graceful folds. In arranging the petticoat itself, a careful lady’s-maid will seo that this is
firmly fastened round the waist.

2259. Where sashes are worn, pin the bows securely on tho inside with a pin, so as not
to be visible; then raise the bow -with the fingers. Tho collar is arranged and carefully
adjusted with brooch or bow in the centre.

2260. Having dressed her mistress for breakfast, and breakfasted herself,
the further duties of the lady’s-maid will depend altogether upon the habits of
tho family, in which hardly two will probably agree. Where the duties are
entirely confined to attendance on her mistress, it is probable that tho bed-
room and dressing-room will be committed to her care ; that, the housemaid,
will rarely enter, except for the weekly or other periodical cleaning ; she will,
therefore, have to make her mistress’s bed, and keep it in order ; and as her
duties are light and easy, there can bo no allowance made for the slightest
approach to uncleanliness or want of order. Every morning, immediately after
her mistress has left it, and while breakfast is on, she should throw tho bod open,
by taking off tho clothes ; open tho windows (except in rainy weather), and
leave the room to air for half an hour. After breakfast, except her attendance

DUTIES OF THE LADY’S-MAID.

9S3

on her mistress prevents it, if tho rooms aro carpeted, she should sweep them
carefully, having previously strewed tho room with moist tea-leaves, dusting
every table and chair, taking care to penetrate to every corner, and moving
every article of furniture that is portable. This done satisfactorily, and
having cleaned the dressing-glass, polished up the furniture and the orna-
ments, and made the glass jug and basin clean and bright, emptied all slops,
emptied the water-jugs and filled them with fresh water, and arranged the
rooms, the dressing-room is ready for the mistress when she -thinks proper
to appear.

2261. The dressing-room thoroughly in order, the same thing is to be done
in the bedroom, in which sho will probably be assisted by the housemaid to
make the bed and empty the slops. In making the bed, she will study her
lady’s wishes, whether it is to be hard or soft, sloping or straight, and see
that it is done accordingly.

2262. Having swept tho bedroom with equal care, dusted the tables and
chairs, chimney-ornaments, and put away all articles of dress left from
yesterday, and cleaned and put away any articles of jewellery, her next care
is to see, before her mistress goes out, what requires replacing in her
department, and furnish her with a list of them, that she may use her dis-
cretion about ordering them. All this done, she may settle herself down to
any work on which she is engaged. This will consist chiefly in mending ;
which is first to be seen to; everything, except stockings, being mended
before washing. Plain work will probably be one of the lady’s-maid’s chief
employments;

2263. A waiting-maicl, who wishes to make herself useful, will study the fashion-books
with attention, so as to be able to aid her mistress's judgment in dressing, according to
the prevailing fashion, with such modifications as her style of countenance requires. She
will also, if she has her mistress’s interest at heart, employ her spare time in repairing
and making up dresses which have served one purpose, to serve another also ; or turning
many things, unfitted for her mistress to use, for the younger branches of the family.
The lady’s-maid may thus render herself invaluable to her mistress, and increase her
own happiness in so doing. The exigencies of fashion and luxury are such, that all ladies,
except those of the very highest rank, will consider themselves fortunate in having about
them a thoughtful person, capable of diverting their finery to a useful purpose.

2264. Among other duties, the lady’s-maid should understand the various
processes for washing, and cleaning, and repairing laces ; edging of collars ;
removing stains and grease-spots from dresses, and similar processes, for
which the following recipes will be found very useful. In washing —

2265. Blonde, fine toilet-soap is used ; the blonde is soaped over very slightly, and
washed in water in which a little fig-blue is dissolved, rubbing it very gently; when
clean, dry it. Dip it afterwards in very thin gum-water, dry it again in linen, spread it
out as flat as it will lie, and iron it. Where the blonde is of better quality, and wider,
it may be stretched on a hoop to dry after washing in the blue-water, applying the gum
with a sponge ; or it may be washed finally in water in which a lump of sugar has been
dissolved, which gives it more the appearance of new blonde.

2266. lace collars soil very quickly when in contact with tho neck ; they are cleaned
by beating the edge of the collar betweon the folds of a fine linen cloth, then washing tho
edges as directed above, and spreading it out on an ironing-board, pinning it at each
corner with fine pins ; then going carofully over it with a sponge charged with water in

984

household management.

which some gum-dragon and fig-blue hare been dissolved, to give it a proper con-
sistence. To give the collar the same tint throughout, the whole collar should be
sponged with the same water, taking care not to touch the flowers.

2267. A multiplicity of accidents occur to soil and spot dresses, which
should be removed at once. To remove —

2268. Grease-spots from cotton or woollen materials of fast colours, absorbent pastes,
purified bullock' s-blood, and even common soap, are used, applied to the spot when dry.
When the colours are not fast, use fuller’s-earth or pulverized potter’s-clay, laid in a
layer over the spot, and press it with a very hot iron.

2269. For Silks, Moires, and plain or brocaded Satins, begin by pouring over the spot
two drops of rectified spirits of wine ; cover it over with a linen cloth, and press it w ith
a hot iron, changing the linen instantly. The spot will look tarnished, for a portion of
the grease still remains : this will be removed entirely by a little sulphuric ether dropped
on the spot, and a very little rubbing. If neatly done, no perceptible mark or circle will
remain ; nor will the lustre of the richest silk bo changed, the union of the two liquids
operating with no injurious effects from rubbing.

2270. Fruit-spots aro removed from white and fast-coloured cottons by the use of
chloride of soda. Commence by cold-soaping the article, then touch the spot with a
hair-pencil or feather dipped in the chloride, dipping it immediately into cold water,
to prevent the texture of the article being injured.

2271. Ink-spots are removed, when fresh applied to the spot, by a few drops of hot
water being poured on immediately afterwards. By the came process, iron-mould in
linen or calico may be removed, dipping immediately in cold water to prevent injury to
the fabric.

2272. Wax dropped on a shawl, table-cover, or cloth dress, is easily discharged by
applying spirits of wine.

2273. Syrups or Preserved Fruits, by washing in lukewarm water with a dry cloth, and
pressing the spot between two folds of clean linen.

2274. Fssence of Lemon will remove grease, but will make a spot itself in a few days.

To clean Silk: or Ribbons.

2275. Ingredients. — h pint of gin, h lb. of honey, h lb. of soft soap, ?, pint
of water.

Mode. — Mix the above ingredients together ; then lay each breadth of silk
upon a clean kitchen table or dresser, and scrub it well on the soiled side
with the mixture. Have ready three vessels of cold water ; take each piece of
silk at two corners, and dip it up and down in each vessel, but do not wring
it ; and take care that each breadth has one vessel of quite clean water for
the last dip. Hang it up dripping for a minute or two, then dab it in a cloth,
and iron it quickly with a very hot iron.

To remove Paint-spots from Silk Cloth.

2276. If the fabric will bear it, sharp rubbing will frequently entirely
discharge a newly-made paint-stain ; but, if this is not successful, apply spirit
of turpentine with a quill till the stains disappear.

To make old Crape look nearly equal to new.

2277. Placo a little water in a teakettle, and lot it boil until there is plenty
of steam from the spout ; then, holding the crape in both hands, pass it to
and fro several times through the steam, and it will be clean and look nearly
equal to new.

DUTIES OF THE LADY’S-MAID.

985

2278. Linen. —Before sending linen to wash, the lady’s-maid should see that
everything under her charge is properly mended ; for her own sake she should
take care that it is sent out in an orderly manner, each class of garments by
themselves, with a proper list, of which she retains a copy. On its return, it
is still more necessary to examine every piece separately, so that all missing
buttons bo supplied, and only the ai'ticles properly washed and in perfect
repair passed into the wardrobe.

2279. Ladies who keep a waiting-maid for their own persons are in the habit
of paying visits to their friends, in which it is not unusual for the maid to accom-
pany them ; at all events, it is her duty to pack the trunks ; and this requires
not only knowledge but some practice, although the improved trunks and port-
manteaus now made, in which there is a place for nearly everything, render
this more simple than formerly. Before packing, let tho trunks be thoroughly
well cleaned, and, if necessary, lined with paper, and everything intended
for packing laid out on the bed or chairs, so that it may be seen what is to be
stowed away ; the nicer articles of dress neatly folded in clean calico wrappers.
Having satisfied herself that everything wanted is laid out, and that it is in
perfect order, the packing is commenced by disposing of the most bulky
articles, the dressing-case and work-box, skirts, and other articles requiring
room, leaving the smaller articles to fill up ; finally, having satisfied herself
that all is included, she should lock and cover up the trunk in its canvas case,
and then pack her own box, if she is to accompany her mistress.

2280. On reaching the house, the lady’s-maid will be shown her lady’s apart-
ment ; and her duties here are what they were at homo ; she will arrange her
mistress’s things, and learn which is her bell, in order to go to her when she
rings. Her meals will be taken in the housekeeper’s room ; and here she must
be discreet and guarded in her talk to any one of her mistress or her concerns.
Her only occupation here will be attending in her lady’s room, keeping her
things in order, and making her rooms comfortable for her.

2281. The evening duties of a lady’s-maid are pretty nearly a repetition of
those of the morning. She is in attendance when her mistress retires ; she
assists her to undress if required, brushes her hair, and renders such other
assistance as is demanded ; removes all slops ; takes care that the fire, if any,
is safe, before she retires to rest herself.

2282. Ironing is apart of the duties of a lady’s-maid, and she should bo
able to do it in the most perfect manner when it becomes necessary. Ironing
is often badly done from inattention to a few very simple requirements.
Cleanliness is the first essential : the ironing-board, the fire, the iron, and tho
ironing-blanket should all be perfectly clean. It will not be necessary
here to enter into details on ironing, as full directions are given in the

Duties of the Laundry-maid.” A lady’s-maid will have a great deal of
,, ironing-out ’ to do ; such as light evening dresses, muslin dresses, &c., which

983

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

_aro not dirty enough to bo washed, but morely roquiro smoothing out to
remove tho creases. In summer, particularly, an iron will be constantly
required, as also a skirt-board, which should be covered with a nice clean
piece of flannel. To keep muslin dresses in order, they almost require
smoothing out every time they are worn, particularly if made with many
flounces. The lady’s-maid may often have to perform little services for her
mistress which require care ; such as restoring tho colour to scorched linen,
&c. &c. The following recipo is, we believe, a very good one.

To restore Whiteness to scorched Linen.

2283. Ingredients. — ^ pint of vinegar, 2 oz. of fuller’s-earth, 1 oz. of
dried fowls’ dung, h oz. of soap, the juice of 2 large onions.

Mode. — Boil all these ingredients together to tho consistency of paste ;
spread the composition thickly over the damaged part, and if the threads be
not actually consumed, after it has been allowed to dry on, and the place
has subsequently been washed once or twice, every trace of scorching will
disappear.

2281. Furs, Feathers, and Woollens require the constant care of the waiting-maid.
Burs and feathers not in constant use should be wrapped up in linen washed in lye.
From May to September they are subject to being made tho depositary of the moth-eggs.
They should bo looked too, and shaken and beaten, from time to time, in case some of
the eggs should have been lodged in them, in spite of every precaution; laying them up
again, or rather folding them up as before, wrapping them in brown paper, which is
itself a preservative. Shawls and cloaks, which would be damaged by such close folds,
must be looked to, and aired and beaten, putting them away dry before the evening.

Preservatives against the Ravages of Moths.

2285. Place pieces of camphor, cedar-wood, Russia leather, tobacco-leaves,
bog-myrtle, or anything else strongly aromatic, in the drawers or boxes where
furs or other things to be preserved from moths are kept, and they will
never take harm.

2286. Jewels are generally wrapped up in cotton, and kept in their cases; but they
are subject to tarnish from exposure to the air, and require cleaning. This is done by
preparing clean soap-suds, using line toilet-soap. Dip any article of gold, silver, gilt, or
precious stones into this lye, and dry them by brushing with a brush of soft badgers’
hair, or a line sponge ; afterwards with a piece of fine cloth, and, lastly, with a soft
leather.

2287. Epaulettes of gold or silver, and, in general, all articles of jewellery, may bo
dressed by dipping them in spirits of wine warmed in a bain marie, or shallow kettle,
placed over a slow tire or hot-plate.

228S. The valet and lady’s-maid, from their supposed influence with their
master and mistress, are exposed to some temptations to which other servants
are less subjected. They are probably in communication with the trades-
people who supply articles for the toilet ; such as batters, tailors, dressmakers,
and perfumers. Tho conduct of waiting-maid and valet to these peoplo should
be civil but independent, making reasonable allowance for want of exact
punctuality, if any such can bo made ; they should represent any incon-
vonienco respectfully, and if an excuso seems unreasonable, put tho matter
fairly to master or mistress, leaving it to them to notico it further, if they think

DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID.

987

it necessary. No expectations of a personal character should influence them
one way or the other. It would be acting unreasonably to any domestic
to make them refuse such presents as tradespeople choose to give them ;
the utmost that can be expected is that they should not influence their
judgment in the articles supplied — that they should represent them truly to
master or mistress, without fear and without favour. Civility to all, servility
to none, is a good maxim for every one. Deference to a master and mistress,
and to their friends and visitors, is one of the implied terms of their engage-
ment ; and this deference must apply even to what may be considered their
whims. A servant is not to be seated, or wear a hat in the house, in his master’s
or mistress’s presence ; nor offer any opinion, unless asked for it ; nor even to
say “good night,” or “good morning,” except in reply to that salutation.

To preserve cut Flowers.

2289. A bouquet of freshly-cut flowers may be preserved alive fora long
time by placing them in a glass or vase with fresh water, in which a little
charcoal has been steeped, or a small piece of camphor dissolved. The vase
should be set upon a plate or dish, and covered with a bell-glass, around the
edges of which, when it comes in contact with the plate, a little water should
be poured to exclude the air.

To revive cut Flowers after packing.

2290. Plunge the stems into boiling water, and by the time the water is
cold, the flowers will have revived. Then cut afresh the ends of the stems,
and keep them in fresh cold water.

UPPER AND UNDER HOUSEMAIDS.

2291. Housemaids, in large establishments, have usually one or more
assistants ; in this case they are upper and under housemaids. Dividing
the work between them, the upper housemaid will probably reserve
for herself the task of dusting the ornaments and cleaning the furniture
of the principal apartments, but it is her duty to see that every depart-
ment is properly attended to. The number of assistants depends on
the number in the family, as well as on the style in which the establishment is
kept up. In wealthy families it is not unusual for every grown-up daughter
to have her waiting-maid, whose duty it is to keep her mistress’s apart-
ments in order, thus abridging the housemaid’s duties. In others, perhaps,
one waiting-maid attends on two or three, when the housemaid’s assistance
will be more requisite. In fact, every establishment has some customs
peculiar to itself, on which we need not dwell; the general duties are the tame
in all, perfect cleanliness and order being the object.

988

nOOSEUOLD MANAGEMENT.

DUTIES OP THE HOUSEMAID.

2292 . “ Cleanliness is next to godliness,” saith the proverb, and “ order ” is
in the next degreo ; tho housemaid, then, may be said to be the handmaiden
to two of the most prominent virtues. Her duties are very numerous, and
many of the comforts of the family depend on their performance ; but they
are simple and easy to a person naturally clean and orderly, and desirous of
giving satisfaction. In all families, whatever the habits of tho master and
mistress, servants will find it advantageous to rise early ; their daily work will
thus come easy to them. If they rise late, there is a struggle to overtake
it, which throws an air of haste and hurry over tho whole establishment.
■Where the master’s time is regulated by early business or professional engage-
ments, this will, of course, regulate tho hours of the servants ; but even where
that is not the case, servants will find great personal convenience in rising
early and getting through their work in an orderly and methodical manner.
The housemaid who studies her own ease will certainly be at her work by six
o’clock in the summer, and, probably, half-past six or seven in the winter
months, having spent a reasonable time in her own chamber in dressing.
Earlier than this would, probably, be an unnecessary waste of coals and
candle in winter.

2293. The first duty of the housemaid in winter is to open the shutters of
all the lower rooms in the house, and take up the hearth-rugs of those rooms

which she is going to “ do ” before breakfast. In
some families, where there is only a cook and
housemaid kept, and where the drawing-rooms
are large, the cook has the care of the dining-
room, and the housemaid that of the break-
fast-room, library, and drawing-rooms. After
the' shutters are all opened, she sweeps the
breakfast-room, sweeping tho dust towards the
fire-place, of course previously removing the
fender. She should then lay a cloth (generally
made of coarse wrappering) over the carpet in
front of the stove, and on this should place her

CAHPEI-BEOOMS. , . ’

housemaid s box, containing black-lead brashes,
leathers, emery-paper, cloth, black lead, and all utensils necessary for cleaning
a grate, with the cinder-pail on the other side.

2294. She now sweeps up the ashes, and deposits them in her cinder-pail,
which is a japanned tin pail, with a wire-sifter inside, and a closely-fitting top.
In this pail the cinders are sifted, and reserved for use in the kitchen or under
the copper, the ashes only being thrown away. The cinders disposed of, she
proceeds to black-lead the grate, producing tho black lead, tho soft brush for
laying it on, her blacking and polishing brushos, from the box which contains

DUTIES OP THE HOUSEMAID.

9S9

her tools. This housemaid’s box should be kept well stocked. Having
blackoned, brushed, and polished every part, and made all clean and bright,
she now proceeds to lay the fire. Sometimes it is very difficult to get a proper

polish to black grates, particularly if they have been neglected, and allowed
to rust at all. Brunswick black, which is an excellent varnish for grates, may
be prepared in the following manner : —

2295. Ingredients. — 1 lb. of common asphaltum, A pint ot linseed oil,
1 quart of oil of turpentine.

Mode. — Melt the asphaltum, and add gradually to it the other two ingredients.
Apply this with a small painter’s brush, and leave it to become perfectly
dry. The grate will need no other cleaning, but will merely require dusting
every day, and occasionally brushing with a dry black-lead brush. This is, of
course, when no fires are used. When they are required, the bars, cheeks,
and back of the grate will need black-leading in the usual manner.

2296. Fire-lighting, however simple, is an operation requiring some skill ; a fire is
readily made by laying a few cinders at the bottom in open order; over this a few
pieces Of paper, and over that again eight or ten pieces of dry wood ; over the wood, a
course of moderate-sized pieces of coal, taking care to leave hollow spaces between for
air at the centre; and taking care to lay the whole well back in the grate, so that the
smoke may go up the chimney, and not into the room. This done, fire the paper with a
match from below, and, if properly laid, it will soon burn up; the stream of flame from
the wood and paper soon communicating to the coals and cinderB, provided there is
plenty of air at the centre.

2297. A new method of lighting a fire is sometimes practised with advantage, the fire
lighting from the top and burning down, in place of being lighted and burning up from
below. This is arranged bv laying the coals at the bottom, mixed with a few good-sized
cinders, and the wood at the top, with another layer of coals and some paper over it;
the paper is lighted in the usual way, and soon burns down to a good fire, with some
economy of fuel, as is said.

2298. Bright grates require unceasing attention to keep them in perfect
order. A day should never pass without the housemaid rubbing with a dry
leather the polished parts of a grate, as also the fender and fire-irons. A
careful and attentive housemaid should have no occasion ever to use emery-
paper for any part but the bars, which, of course, become blackened by the
fire. (Some mistressos, to save labour, havo a double set of bars, one set
bright for the summer, and another black set to use when fires aro in requi-

STOVE-BBUSHES.

HOUSE ST Ain'S BOX.

900

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

sition.) When bright grates are once neglected, small rust-spots begin to
show themselves, which a plain leather will not remove ; the following method
of cleaning them must then be resorted to First, thoroughly clean with
emery-paper ; then take a largo smooth pebble from the road, sufficiently large
to hold comfortably in the hand, with which rub the steel backwards and
forwards ono way, until the desired polish is obtained. It may appear at
first to scratch, but continue rubbing, and the result will bo success. The
following is also an excellent polish for bright stoves and steel articles : —

2299. Ingredients. — 1 tablespoonful of turpentine, 1 ditto of sweet oil,
emery powder.

Mode. — Mix the turpentine and sweet oil together, stirring in sufficient
emery powder to make the mixture of the thickness of cream. Put it on the
article with a piece of soft flannel, rub off quickly with another piece, then
polish with a little dry emery powder and clean leather.

2300. The several fires lighted, the housemaid proceeds with her dusting,
and polishing the several pieces of furniture in the breakfast-parlour, leaving
no comer unvisited. Before sweeping the carpet, it is a good practice to
sprinkle it all over with tea-leaves, which not only lay all dust, but give a
slightly fragrant smell to the room. It is now in order for the reception of
the family ; and where there is neither footman nor parlour-maid, she now
proceeds to the dressing-room, and lights her mistress’s fire, if she is in the
habit of having one to dress by. Her mistress is called, hot water placed in
the dressing-room for her use, her clothes— as far as they are under the house-
maid’s charge — put before the fire to air, hanging a fire-guard on the bars
where there is one, while she proceeds to prepare the breakfast.

23<3r. In summer the housemaid’s work is considerably abridged : she
throws open the windows oi the several rooms not occupied as bedrooms,
that they may receive the fresh morning air before they are occupied ; she
prepares the breakfast-room by sweeping the carpet, rubbing tables
and chairs, dusting mantel-shelf and picture-frames with a light brush,
dusting the furniture, and beating and sweeping the rag ; she cleans
the grate when necessary, and replaces tlfe white paper or arranges
the shavings with which it is filled, leaving everything clean and tidy ior
breakfast. It is not enough, however, in cleaningfurniture, just to pass lightly
over the surface ; the rims and legs of tables, and tho backs and legs of chairs
and sofas, should be rubbed vigorously daily; if there is a book-case, every
comer of every pane and ledge requires to be carefully wiped, so that not a
speck of dust can be found in the room,

2302. After the breakfast-room is finished, the housemaid should proceed to
sweep down the stairs, commencing at the top, whilst the cook has tho charge
of the hall, door-step, and passages. After this she should go into the
drawing-room, covor up every article of furniture that is likely to spoil, with

DUTIESOF THE HOUSEMAID.

991

large dusting-sheets, and put the chairs together, by turning them seat to
seat, and, in fact, make as much room as possible, by placing all the loose
furniture in the middle of tho room, whilst she sweeps the corners and sides.
When this is accomplished, the furniture can then be put back in its place,
and the middle of the room swept, sweeping the dirt, as before said, towards

BANISIOT-BBOOiT. STAIECASE-EROOAT.

the fireplace. The same rules should be observed in cleaning the drawing-
room grates as we have just stated, putting down the cloth, before commencing,
to prevent the carpet from getting soiled. In the country, a room would not
require sweeping thoroughly like this more than twice a week ; but the house-
maid should go over it every morning with a dust-pan and broom, taking
up every crumb and piece she may see. After the sweeping she should
leave the room, shut the door, and proceed to lay the breakfast. Where there
is neither footman nor parlour-maid kept, the duty of laying the breakfast-
cloth rests on the housemaid.

2303. Before laying the cloth for breakfast, the heater of the tea-um is to he
placed in the hottest part of the kitchen fire ; or, where the kettle is used,
boiled on the kitchen fire, and then removed to the parlour, where it is kept
hot. Having washed herself free from the dust arising from the morning’s
work, the housemaid collects the breakfast-things on her tray, takes tho
breakfast-cloth from the napkin press, and carries them all on the tray into
the parlour ; arranges them on the table, placing a sufficiency of knives, forks,
and salt-cellars for the family, and takes the tray back to the pantry;
gets a supply of milk, cream, and bread ; fills the butter-dish, taking care that
the salt is plentiful, and soft and dry, and that hot plates and egg-cups are ready
where warm meat or eggs are served, and that butter-knife and bread-knife
are in their places. And now she should give the signal for breakfast, holding
herself ready to fill the urn with hot water, or hand the kettle, and take in the
rolls, toast, and other eatables, with which the cook supplies her, when the
breakfast-room bell rings ; bearing in mind that she is never to enter the
parlour with dirty hands or with a dirty apron, and that everything is to be
handed on a tray ; that she is to hand everything she may be required to
supply, on the left hand of the person she is serving, and that all is done
quietly and without bustle or hurry. In some families, where there is a large
number to attend on, the cook waits at breakfast whilst the housemaid is busy
upstairs in the bedrooms, or sweeping, dusting, and putting the drawing-
room in order.

2304. Breakfast served, the housemaid proceeds to the bed-chambers,
throws up the sashes, if not already done, pulls up the blinds, throwing
back curtains at the same time, and opens the beds, by removing the clothes.

992

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

placing them over a horse, or, failing that, over tho backs of chairs. Sho
now proceeds to empty tho slops. In doing this, everything is emptied into
tho slop-pail, leaving a little scalding-hot water for a minute in such vessels as
require it ; adding a drop of turpentine to the water, when that is not sufficient
to cleanso them. The basin is emptied, well rinsed with clean water, and
carefully wiped ; tho ewers emptied and washed ; finally, the water-jugs
themselves emptied out and rinsed, and wiped dry. As soon as this is
done, she should remove and empty the pails, taking care that they also
are well washod, scalded, and wiped as soon as they are empty.

2305. Noxt follows bodmaking, at which the cook or kitchen-maid, where
ono is kept, usually assists ; but, before beginning, velvet chairs, or other
things injured by dust, should be removed to another room. In bedmaking,
the fancy of its occupant should be consulted ; some like beds sloping from
the top towards the feet, swelling slightly in the middle ; others, perfectly
fiat : a good housemaid will accommodate each bed to tho taste of the sleeper,
taking care to shake, beat, and turn it well in the process. Some persons prefer
sleeping on the mattress ; in which case a feather bed is usually beneath,
resting on a second mattress, and a straw paillasse at the bottom. In this
case, the mattresses should change places daily ; the feather bed placed on the
mattress shaken, beaten, taken up and opened several times, so as thoroughly
to separate the feathers : if too large to bo thus handled, the maid should
shake and beat one end first, and then the other, smoothing it afterwards
equally all over into the required shape, and place the mattress gently over !
it. Any feathers which escape in this process a tidy servant will put back i
through the seam of the tick ; she will also be careful to sew up any stitch that .
gives way the moment it is discovered. The bedclothes are laid on, beginning
with an under blanket and sheet, which are tucked under the mattress at the
bottom. The bolster is then beaten and shaken, and put on, the top of the
sheet rolled round it, and the sheet tucked in all round. The pillows and
other bedclothes follow, and the counterpane over all, which should fall in grace-
ful folds, and at equal distance from the ground all round. The curtains are
drawn to the head and folded neatly across the bed, and the whole finished in
a smooth and graceful manner. Where spring-mattresses are used, care should
be taken that the top one is turned every day. The housemaid should now take j|
up in a dustpan any pieces that may be on the carpet ; she should dust the room, |l
shut the door, and proceed to another room. When all the bedrooms are ||
finished, she should dust the stairs, and polish the handrail of the banisters,
and see that all ledges, window-sills, &c., are quite free from dust. It will
be necessary for the housemaid to divide her work, so that she may not have
too much to do on certain days, and not sufficient to fill up her time on
other days. In the country, bedrooms should be swept and thoroughly
cleaned once a week ; and to be methodical and regular in her work, the house-
maid should havo certain days for doing certain rooms thoroughly. F01
instance, the drawing-room on Monday, two bedrooms on Tuesday, two or
Wednesday, and so on, reserving a day for thoroughly cleaning tho plate;

DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID.

903

bedroom candlesticks, &c. &c., which she will have to do whore there is no
parlour-maid or footman kept. By this means the work will be divided, and
there will be no unnecessary bustling and hurrying, as is the case where the
work is done any time, without rule or regulation.

2306. Once a week, when a bedroom is to be thoroughly cleaned, the house-
maid should commence by brushing the mattresses of the bed before it is
made ; she should then make it, shake the curtains, lay them smoothly on
the bed, and pin or tuck up the bottom valance, so that she may be able to
sweep under the bed. She should then unloop the window-curtains, shako
them, and pin them high up out of the way. After clear-
ing the dressing-table, and the room altogether of little
articles of china, &c. &c., she should shake the toilet-
covers, fold them up, and lay them on the bed, over
which a large dusting-sheet should be thrown. She
should then sweep the room ; first of all sprinkling the
carpet with well-squeezed tea-
leaves, or a little freshly-pulled
BCBUBBUTG-BEUsn. grass, when this is obtainable.

After the carpet is swept, and the grate cleaned, she
should wash with soap and water, with a little soda in
it, the washing-table apparatus, removing all marks or
fur round the jugs, caused by the water. The water-
bottles and tumblers must also have her attention, as
well as the top of the washing-stand, which should be
cleaned with soap and flannel if it be marble: if of
polished mahogany, no soap must be used. When those
are all clean and arranged in their places, the housemaid should scrub
the floor where it is not covered with carpet, under the beds, and round
the wainscot. She should use as little soap and soda as possible, as too
fi-ee a use of these articles is liable to give the boards a black appearance.
In the country, cold soft water, a clean scrubbing-brush, and a willing arm,
are all that are required to make bedroom floors look white. In winter it is
not advisable to scrub rooms too often, as it is difficult to dry them thoroughly
at that season of the year, and nothing is more dangerous than to allow
persons to sleep in a damp room. The housemaid should now dust the furni-
ture, blinds, ornaments, &c. ; polish the looking-glass; arrange the toilet-cover
and muslin ; remove the cover from the bed, and straighten and arrange the
eurtains and counterpane. A bedroom should be cleaned like this every
week. There are times, however, when it is necessary to have the carpet up ;
this should be done once a year in the country, and twice a year in large
cities. The best time for these arrangements is spring and autumn, when
the bed-furnituro requires changing to suit the seasons of the year. After
arranging the furniture, it should all be well rubbed and polished ; and for this
purpose the housemaid should provide herself with an old silk pocket-hand-
kerchief, to finish the polishing.

3 8

994

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

2307. As modern furniture is now nearly always French-polished, it should
often be rubbed with an old silk rubber, or a fine cloth or duster, to keep it
free from smears. Throe or four times a year any of the following polishes
may bo applied with very great success, as any of them make French-polished
furniture look very well. Ono precaution must be taken, — not to put too much
of the polish on at one time, and to rub, not smea/r it over the articles.

Furniture Polish.

2308. Ingredients. — £ pint of linseed -oil, I pint of vinegar, 1 oz. of
spirits of salts, l oz. of muriatic antimony.

Mode. — Mix all well together, and shake before using.

Furniture Polish.

2309. Ingredients. — Equal proportions of linseed-oil, turpentine, vinegar,
and spirits of wine.

Mode. — When used, shake the mixture well, and rub on the furniture with
a piece of linen rag, and polish with a clean duster. Vinegar and oil, rubbed
in with flannel, and the furniture rubbed with a clean duster, produce a very
good polish.

Furniture Paste.

2310. Ingredients. — 3 oz. of common beeswax, 1 oz. of white wax, 1 oz.
of curd soap, 1 pint of turpentine, 1 pint of boiled water.

Mode. — Mix the ingredients together, adding the water when cold ; shake
the mixture frequently in the bottle, and do not use it for
48 hours after it is made. It should be applied with a
piece of flannel, the furniture polished with a duster, and
rumnTuEE-uitrsH. then with an old silk rubber.

2311. The chambers are finished, the chamber candlesticks brought down
and cleaned, the parlour lamps trimmed ; — and here the housemaid’s utmost
care is required. In cleaning candlesticks, as in every other cleaning, she
should have cloths and brushes kept for that purpose alone ; the knife used to
scrape them should be applied to no other purpose ; the tallow-grease should be
thrown into a box kept for the purpose ; the same with everything connected
with the lamp-trimming [ the best mode of doing which she will do well to
learn from the tradesman who supplies the oil ; always bearing in mind, how-
ever, that without perfect cleanliness, which involves occasional scalding, no
lamp can be kept in order.

2312. The drawing and dining-room, inasmuch as everything there is more
costly and valuable, require even more care. When the carpets are of the
kind known as velvet-pile, they require to be swept firmly by a hard whisk
brush, made of cocoanut fibre.

2313. Tho furniture must be carefully gone over in every corner with a
soft cloth, that it may be left perfectly free from dust ; or where that is beyond
reach, with a brush made of long feathers, or a goose’s wing. The sofas are

DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID.

995

swept in the same manner, slightly beaten, the cushions shaken and smoothed,
the picture-frames swept, and everything arranged in its proper place. This,
of course, applies to dining as well as drawing-room and morning-room. And
now the housemaid may dress herself for the day, and prepare for the family
dinner, at which she must attend.

2314. We need not repeat the long instructions already given for laying the
dinner-table. At the family dinner, even where no footman waits, the routine will
be the same. In most families the cloth is laid with the slips on each side, with
napkins, knives, forks, spoons, and wine and finger glasses on all occasions.

2315. Sho should ascertain that her plate is in order, glasses free from smears,
water-bottles and decanters the same, and everything ready on her tray, that
she may be able to lay her cloth properly.

Few things add more to the neat and com-
fortable appearance of a dinner-table than well-
polished plate ; indeed, the state of the plate
is a certain indication of a well-managed or ill-
managed household. Nothing is easier than
to keep plate in good order, and yet many
servants, from stupidity and ignorance, make
it the greatest trouble of all things under btttleb’s tbay and stand.
their care. It should be remembered, that it is utterly impossible to make
greasy silver take a polish ; and that as spoons aud forks in daily use are
continually in contact with grease, they must require good washing in soap-
and-water to remove it. Silver should be washed with a soapy flannel in
one water, rinsed in another, and then wiped dry with a dry cloth. The
plate so washed may be polished with the plate-rags, as in the following
directions : — Once a week all the plate should receive a thorough cleaning
with the hartshorn powder, as directed in the first recipe for cleaning
plate ; and where the housemaid can find time, rubbed every day with the
plate-rags.

2316. Hartshorn, we may observe, is one of the best possible ingredients for plate-
powder in daily use. It leaves on the silver a deep, dark polish, and at the same time
does less injury than anything else. It has also the advantage of being very cheap ;
almost all the ordinary powders sold in boxes containing more or less of quicksilver, in
some form or another; and this in process of time is sure to make the plate brittle. If
any one wishes to be convinced of the effect of quicksilver on plate, he has only to rub a
little of it on one place for some time, — on the handle of a silver teaspoon for instance,
and he will find it break in that spot with very little pressure.

To Clean Plate.

A very excellent method.

2317. Wash the plate well to remove all grease, in a strong lather of com-
mon yellow soap and boiling water, and wipe it — — - — — — - ■ ■ _-

quite dry ; then mix as much hartshorn powder as •SSSttHinffllllfl
will bo required, into a thick paste, with cold water tlate-bbusii.

or spirits of wine ; smear this lightly over the plato with a piece of soft rag,

3 s 2

900

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

and leave it for somo little time to dry. When perfectly dry, brush it off quite
clean with a soft plate-brush, and polish the plate with a dry leather. If the
plato be very dirty, or much tarnished, spirits of wine will be found to answer
better than tlio water for mixing the paste.

Plate-rags for daily use.

2318. Boil soft rags (nothing is better for the purpose than the tops of old
cotton stockings) in a mixture of new milk and hartshorn powder, in the pro-
portion of 1 oz. of powder to a pint of milk ; boil them for 5 minutes ;
wring them as soon as they aro taken out, for a moment, in cold water, and dry
them before the fire. With these rags rub the plate briskly as soon as it has
been well washed and dried after daily use. A most beautiful deep polish
will be produced, and the plato will require nothing more than merely to be
dusted with a leather or a dry soft cloth, boforc it is again put on the table.

2319. For waiting at table, the housemaid should be neatly and cleanly
dressed, and, if possible, her dress made with closed sleeves, the large open
ones dipping and falling into everything on the table, and being very much in
the way. She should not wear creaking boots, and should move about the
room as noiselessly as possible, anticipating people’s wants by handing them
things without being asked for them, and altogether be as quiet as possible.
It will be needless here to repeat what we have already said respecting waiting
at table, in the duties of tho butler and footman : rules that aro good to be
observed by them, are equally good for the parlour-maid or housemaid.

2320. The housemaid having announced that dinner is on the table, will hand
the soup, fish, meat, or side-dishes to the different members of the family ; but in
families who do not spend much of the day together, they will probably
prefer being alone at dinner and breakfast : tho housemaid will be required,
after all are helped, if her master does not wish her to stay in tho room, to go
on with her work of cleaning up in the pantry, and answer the bell when
rung. In this case she will place a pile of plates on the table or a dumb-
waiter, within reach of her master and mistress, and leave tho room.

2321. Dinner over, the housemaid removes tho plates and dishes on the tray,
places the dirty knives and forks in the basket prepared for them, folds up tho
napkins in tho ring which indicates by which member of the family it has been

used, brashes off the crumbs on the hand-
tray kept for the purpose, folds up the table-
cloth in the folds already made, and places
it in the linen-press to bo smoothed out.
After every meal the tablo should bo rubbed,
all marks from hot plates removed, and tho table-cover thrown over, and
tho room restored to its usual order. If tho family retire to the drawing-
room, or any other room, it is a good practico to throw up tho sash to admit
frosk air and ventilate the room.

CKUMB-BBCSn.

DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID.

997

2322. The housemaid’s evening service consists in washing up the dinner-
things, the plate, plated articles, and glasses, restoring everything to its place ;
cleaning up her pantry, and putting away everything for use when next
required ; lastly, preparing for tea, as the time approaches, by setting the
things out on tho tray, getting the urn or kettle ready, with cream and other
things usually partaken of at that meal.

2323. In summer-timo the windows of all the bedrooms, which have been
closed during the heat of the day, should be thrown open for an hour or so
after sunset, in order to air them. Before dark they should be closed, the
bedclothes turned down, and the night-clothes laid in order for use when
required. During winter, where fires are required in the dressing-rooms, they
should be lighted an hour before the usual time of retiring, placing a fire-guard
before each fire. At the same time, the night-things on the horse should be
placed before it to be aired, with a tin can of hot water, if the mistress is in
the habit of washing before going to bed. We may add, that there is no
greater preservative of beauty than washing the face every night in hot water.
The housemaid will probably be required to assist her mistress to undress
and put her dress in order for the morrow ; in which case her duties are very
much those of the lady’s-maid.

2324. And now the fire is made up for the night, the fireguard replaced,
and everything in the room in order for the night, the housemaid taking care
to leave the night-candle and matches together in a convenient place, should
they be required. It is usual in summer to remove all highly fragrant flowers
from sleeping-rooms, the impression being that their scent is injurious in a
close chamber.

2325. On leisure days, the housemaid should be able to do some needlework
for her mistress, — such as turning and mending sheets and darning the house
linen, or assist her in anything she may think fit to give her to do. For
this reason it is almost essential that a housemaid; in a small family, should
be an expert needlewoman ; as, if she be a good manager and an active girl, she
will have time on her hands to get through plenty of work.

2326. Periodical Cleanings. — Besides the daily routine which we have
described, there are portions of every house which can only be thoroughly
cleaned occasionally ; at which time the whole house usually undergoes a more
thorough cleaning than is permitted in the general way. On these occasions
it is usual to begin at the top of the house and clean downwards ; moving
everything out of tho room ; washing the wainscoting or paint with soft soap
and water ; pulling down tho bods and thoroughly cleansing all tho joints ;
"scrubbing” the floor ; beating feather bods, mattress, and paillasse, and
thoroughly purifying every article of furniture before it is put back in its
place.

998

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

2327. This general cloaning usually takes place in the springor early summer,
when the warm curtains of winter are replaced by the light and cheerful
muslin curtains. Carpets are at the same time taken up and beaten, except
whore the mistress of the houso has been worried into an experiment by the
often-reiterated question, “ Why beat your carpets ? ” In this case she will
probably havo made up her mind to try the cleaning process, and arranged
with tho company to send for them on the morning when cleaning
commenced. It is hardly necessary to repeat, that on this occasion every
articlo is to be gone over, tho Fronch-polished furniture well rubbed and

nousE-PAin. DrsTixG-Bnusn.

polished. The same thorough system of cleaning should be done
throughout the house ; the walls cleaned where painted, and swept down
with a soft broom or feather brush where papered ; the window and bed
curtains, which have been replaced with muslin ones, carefully brushed, or,
if they require it, cleaned ; lamps not likely to be required, washed out with
hot water, dried, and cleaned. The several grates are now to be furnished
with their summer ornaments ; and we know none prettier than the
following, which the housemaid may provide at a small expense to her
mistress : — Purchase two yards and a half of crinoline muslin, and tear it into :|
small strips, the selvage way of the material, about an inch wide ; strip this 1
thread by thread on each side, leaving the four centre threads ; this gives about
six-and-thirty pieces, fringed on each side, which are tied together at one end,
and fastened to the trap of the register, while the threads, unravelled, are !
spread gracefully about the grate, the lower part of which is filled with paper I
shavings. This makes a very elegant and veiy cheap ornament, which is :
much stronger, besides, than those usually purchased.

2328. As winter approaches, this house-cleaning will have to bo repeated,
and the warm bed and window curtains replaced. The process of scouring ;
and cleaning is again necessary, and must be gone through, beginning at the !
top, and going through the house, down to the kitchens.

2329. Independently of these daily and periodical cleanings, other occupations
will present themselves from time to time, which the housemaid will have to I
perform. When spots show on polished furniture, they can generally be
restored by soap-and-water and a sponge, the polish being brought out by

DUTIES OF THE HOUSEMAID.

909

using a little polish, and then well rubbing it. Again, drawers which draw out
stiffly may bo made to move more easily if the spot where they press is rubbed
over with a little soap.

2330. Chips broken off any of the furniture should be collected and re-
placed, by means of a little glue applied to it. Liquid glue, which is sold
prepared in bottles, is very useful to have in the house, as it requires no
melting ; and anything broken can be so quickly repaired.

2331. Breaking glass and china is about the most disagreeable thing that can
happen in a family, and it is, probably, a greater annoyance to a right-
minded servant than to the mistress. A neat-handed housemaid may some-
times repair these breakages, where they are not broken in very conspicuous
places, by joining the pieces very neatly together with a cement made as
follows : — Dissolve an ounce of gum mastic in a quantity of highly-rectified
spirits of wine ; then soften an ounce of isinglass in warm water, and, finally,
dissolve it in rum or brandy, till it forms a thick jelly. Mix the isinglass and
gum mastic together, adding a quarter of an ounce of finely-powdered gum
ammoniac ; put the whole into an earthen pipkin, and in a warm place, till
they are thoroughly incorporated together ; pour it into a small phial, and
cork it down for use.

2332. In using it, dissolve a small piece of the cement in a silver teaspoon
over a lighted candle. The broken pieces of glass or china being warmed,
and touched with the now liquid cement, join the parts neatly together,
and hold in their places till the cement has set ; then wipe away the cement
adhering to the edge of the joint, and leave it for twelve hours without
touching it : the joint will be as strong as the china itself, and if neatly done,
it will show no joining. It is essential that neither of the pieces be wetted
either with hot or cold water.

'* USEFUL RECIPES FOR HOUSEMAIDS.

To clean. Marble.

2333- with | pint of soap lees, i gill of turpentine, sufficient pipe-clay
and bullock’s gall to make the whole into rather a thick paste. Apply it to
the marble with a soft brush, and after a day or two, when quite dry, mb it
off with a soft rag. Apply this a second or third time till the marble is quite
clean.

Another method.

2334- Take two parts of soda, ono of pumice-stone, and one of finely-
powdered chalk. Sift these through a fine sieve, and mix them into a paste
with water. Rub this well all over the marble, and the stains will be removed ;
then wash it with soap-and-water, and a beautiful bright polish will bo
produced.

1000

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

To clean Floorcloth.

2335. After having wasliod the floorcloth in tho usual manner with a damp
flannel, wet it all over with milk and rub it well with a dry cloth, when a
most beautiful polish will bo brought out. Some persons use for rubbing a
well-waxed flannel ; but this in general produces an unpleasant slipperiness,
which is not the ease with the milk.

To clean Decanters.

2336. Roll up in small pieces some soft brown or blotting paper ; wet them,
and soap them well. Put them into the decanters about one quarter full of
warm water ; shake them well for a few minutes, then rinse with clear cold
water ; wipe the outsides with a nice dry cloth, put the decanters to drain,
and when dry they will be almost as bright as new ones.

To brighten Gilt Frames.

2337. Take sufficient flour of sulphur to give a golden tinge to about 11 pint
of water, and in this boil 4 or 5 bruised onions, or garlic, which will answer
the same purpose. Strain off the liquid, and with it, when cold, wash, with a
soft brush, any gilding which requires restoring, and when dry it will come
out as bright as new work.

To preserve bright Grates or Fire-irons from Bust.

2338. Make a strong paste of fresh lime and water, and with a fine brush
smear it as thickly as possible over all the polished surface requiring preserva-
tion. By this simple means, all the grates and fire-irons in an empty house
may be kept for months free from harm, without further care or attention.

German Furniture-Gloss.

2339. Ingredients. — l lb. yellow wax, 1 oz. black rosin, 2 oz. of oil of
turpentine.

Mode. — Cut the wax into small pieces, and melt it in a pipkin, with the
rosin pounded very fine. Stir in gradually, while these two ingredients are
quite warm, the oil of turpentine. Keep this composition well covered for
use in a tin or earthen pot. A little of this gloss should be spread on a piece
of coarse woollen cloth, and the furniture well rubbed with it ; afterwards it
should be polished with a fine cloth.

1001

DUTIES OF THE MAID-OF-ALL-WOEK.

0340. The general servant, or maid-of-all-work, is perhaps the only one of her
class deserving of commiseration : her life is a solitary one, and in, some places,
her work is never done. She is also subj ect to rougher treatment than either the
house or kitchen-maid, especially in her earlier career : she starts in life, probably
a girl of thirteen, with some small tradesman’s wife as her mistress, just a step
above her in the social scale ; and although the class contains among them
many excellent, kind-hearted women, it also contains some very rough speci-
mens of the feminine gender, and to some of these it occasionally falls to give
our maid-of-all-work her first lessons in her multifai’ious occupations : the
mistress’s commands are the measure of the maid-of-all-work’s duties. By the
time she has become a tolerable servant, she is probably engaged in some
respectable tradesman’s house, where she has to rise with the lark, for she has
to do in her own person all the work which in larger establishments is
performed by cook, kitchen-maid, and housemaid, and occasionally the part
of a footman’s duty, which consists in carrying messages.

2341. The general servant’s duties commence by opening the shutters (and
windows, if the weather permits) of all the lower apartments in the house p
she should then brush up her kitchen-range, light the fire, clear away the.
ashes, clean the hearth, and polish with a leather the bright parts of the
range, doing all as rapidly and as vigorously as possible, that no more time
he wasted than is necessary. After putting on the kettle, she should then
proceed to the dining-room or parlour to get it in order for breakfast. She
should first roll up the rug, take up the fender, shake and fold up the table-
cloth, then sweep the room, carrying the dirt towards the fireplace ; a coarse
cloth should then be laid down over the carpet, and she should proceed to
clean the grate, having all her utensils close to her. When the grate is
finished, the ashes cleared away, the hearth cleaned, and the fonder put back
in its place, she must dust the furniture, not omitting the legs of the tables
and chairs ; and if there are any ornaments or things on the sideboard, she
must not dust round them, but lift them up on to another place, dust well
where they have been standing, and then replace the things. Nothing annoys
a particular mistress so much as to find, when she comes down stairs, different
articles of furniture looking as if they had never been dusted. If the
servant is at all methodical, and gets into a habit of doing a room in a certain
way, she will scarcely ever leave her duties neglected. After the rug is put
down, the table-cloth arranged, and everything in order, she should lay the
cloth for breakfast, and then shut the dining-room door.

2342. The hall must now be swept, the mats shaken, the door-step cleaned,
and any brass knockers or handles polished up with the leather. If the
family breakfast very early, the tidying of the hall must then be deferred till

1002

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

after that moal. After cleaning the boots that are absolutely required, the
servant should now wash her hands and face, put on a clean white apron, and

bo ready for her mistress when she comes
down stairs. In families where there is much
work to do before breakfast, the master of
the house frequently has two pairs of boots in
wear, so that they may be properly cleaned
when the servant has more time to do them,
in the daytime. This arrangement is, per-
haps, scarcely necessary in the summer-time, when there are no grates to
clean every morning ; but in the dark days of winter it is only kind and
thoughtful to lighten a seiwant-of-all-work’s duties as much as possible.

BBACKING-BBUSn BOX.

2343. She will now carry the urn into the dining-room, where her mistress
will make the tea or coffee, and sometimes will boil the eggs, to insure them
being done to her liking. In the mean time the servant cooks, if required, the
bacon, kidneys, fish, &c. ; — if cold meat is to be served, she must always send
it to table on a clean dish, and nicely garnished with tufts of parsley, if this is
obtainable.

2344. After she has had her own breakfast, and whilst the family are finish-
ing theirs, she should go upstairs into the bedrooms, open all the windows,
strip the clothes off the beds, and leave them to air whilst she is clearing
away the breakfast things. She should then take up the crumbs in a dustpan
from under the table, put the chairs in then- places, and sweep up the hearth.

2345. The breakfast things washed up, the kitchen should be tidied, so that
it may be neat when her mistress comes in to give the orders for the day : after
receiving those order's, the servant should go upstairs again, with a jug of boiling
water, the slop-pail, and two cloths. After emptying the slops, and scalding
the vessels with the boiling water, and wiping them thoroughly dry, she should
wipe the top of the wash-table and arrange it all in order. She then proceeds
to make the beds, in which occupation she is generally assisted by the
mistress, or, if she have any daughters, by one of them. Before commencing
to make the bod, the servant should put on a largo bed-apron, kept for this
purpose only, which should be made very wide, to button round the waist and
meet behind, while it should bo made as long as the dress. By adopting this
plan, the blacks and dirt on servants’ dresses (which at all times it is impossible
to help) will not rub off on to the bed-clothes, mattresses, and bed furniture.
When the beds are made, the rooms should bo dusted, the staffs lightly swept
down, hall furniture, closets, &c., dusted. The lady of the house, where there
is but one servant kept, frequently takes charge of tho drawing-room herself,
that is to say, dusting it ; tho servant sweeping, cleaning windows, looking-
glasses, grates, and rough work of that sort. If there are many ornaments
and knick-knacks about tho room, it is certainly better for the mistress to

DUTIES OF THE MAID-OF-ALL-WOKK.

1003

dust these herself, as a maid-of-all-work’s hands are not always in a condition
to handle delicate ornaments.

2346. Now she has gone the rounds of the house and seen that all is in
order, the servant goes to her kitchen to see about the cooking of the dinner,
in which very often her mistress will assist her. She should put on a coarse
apron with a bib to do her dirty work in, which may be easily replaced by a
white one if required.

2347. Half an hour before dinner is ready, she should lay the cloth, that
everything may be in readiness when she is dishing up the dinner, and take
all into the dining-room that is likely to be required, in the way of knives,
forks, spoons, bread, salt, water, &c. &c. By exercising a little forethought,
much confusion and trouble may be saved both to mistress and servant, by
getting everything ready for the dinner in good time.

2348. After taking in the dinner, when every one is seated, she removes the
covers, hands the plates round, and pours out the beer ; and should be careful
to hand everything on the left side of the person she is waiting on.

2349. We need scarcely say that a maid-of-all-work cannot stay in the
dining-room during the whole of dinner-time, as she must dish up her pudding,
or whatever is served after the first course. When she sees every one helped,
she should leave the room to make her preparations for the next course ; and
anything that is required, such as bread, &c., people may assist themselves to
in the absence of the servant.

2350. When the dinner things are cleared away, the servant should sweep
up the crumbs in the dining-room, sweep the hearth, and lightly dust the
furniture, then sit down to her own dinner.

2351. After this, she washes up and puts away the dinner things, sweeps the
kitchen, dusts and tidies it, and puts on the kettle for tea. She should now,
before dressing herself for the afternoon, clean
her knives, boots, and shoes, and do any other
dirty work in the scullery that may be neces-
sary. Knife-cleaning machines are rapidly
taking' the place, in most households, of the
old knife-board. The saving of labour by the
knife-cleaner is very great, and its performance
of the work is very satisfactory. Small and
large machines are manufactured, some cleaning
only four knives, whilst others clean as many as
twelve at once. Nothing can be more simple
than the process of machine knife-cleaning ; and although, in a very limited
household, the substitution of the machine for the board may not bo necessary,

KNIFE-CLEANING MACHINE.

1004

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

yefc we should advise all housekeepers, to whom the outlay is not a difficulty,
to avail themsolves of the services of a machine. We have already spoken of
its management in tho “ Duties of tho Footman,” No. 2177.

2352. When the servant is dressed, she takes in the tea, and after tea turns
down tho beds, sees that tho water-jugs and bottles arc full, closes the windows,
and draws down the blinds. If the weather is very warm, these are usually
left open until the last thing at night, to cool the rooms.

2353. The routine of a general servant’s duties depends upon the kind of
situation she occupies ; but a systematic maid- of-all- work should so contrive to
divide her work, that every day in tho week may have its proper share. By
this means she is able to keep the house clean with less fatigue to herself than
if she left all the cleaning to do at the end of tho week. Supposing there are
five bedrooms in the house, two sitting-rooms, kitchen, scullery, and the
usual domestic offices : — on Monday she should thoroughly clean the drawing-
room ; on Tuesday, two of the bedrooms; on Wednesday, two more; on
Thursday, the other bedroom and stairs ; on Friday morning she should
sweep the dining-room very thoroughly, clean the hall, and in the afternoon
her kitchen tins and bright utensils. By arranging her work in this manner,
no undue proportion will fall to Saturday’s share, and she will then have this
day for cleaning plate, cleaning her kitchen, and arranging everything in nice
order. The regular work must, of course, be performed in the usual manner,
as we have endeavoured to describe.

2354. Before retiring to bed, she will do well to clean up glasses, plates, &c.
which have been used for the evening meal, and prepare for her morning’s
work by placing her wood near the fire, on the hob, to dry, taking care there
is no danger of it igniting, before she leaves the kitchen for the night. Before
retiring, she will have to lock and bolt the doors, unless the master undertakes
this office himself.

2355. If the washing, or even a portion of it, is done at home, it will bo im-
possible for the maid-of-all-work to do her household duties thoroughly,
during the time it is about, unless she have some assistance. Usually, if all
the washing is done at home, the mistress hires some one to assist at the
wash-tub, and sees to little matters herself, in the way of dusting, dealing
away breakfast things, folding, starching, and ironing the fine things. With
a little management much can be accomplished, provided the mistress bo in-
dustrious, energetic, and willing to lend a helping hand. Let washing-week
be not the excuse for having everything in a muddlo ; and although “ things”
cannot be cleaned so thoroughly, and so much time spent upon them, as
ordinarily, yet the house may bo kept tidy and clear from littor without a
great deal of exertion either on the part of tho mistress or servant. Wo will
conclude our remarks with an extract from an admirably- written book, callod
“Homo Truths for Homo Peace.” Tho authoress says, with respect to tho

DUTIES OP THE DAIRY -MAID.

1005

great wash — “Amongst all tlio occasions in which it is most difficult and
glorious to keep muddle out of a family, ' the great wash’ stands pre-eminent ;
and as very little money is now saved by having everything done at home,
many ladies, with the option of taking another servant or putting out the
chief part of the washing, have thankfully adopted the latter course.” She
goes on to say— “ When a gentleman who dines at home can’t bear washing
hi the house, but gladly pays for its being done elsewhere, the lady should
gratefully submit to his wishes, and put out anything in her whole estab-
lishment rather than put out a good and generous husband.”

2356. A bustling and active girl will always find time to do a little needle-
work for herself, if she lives with consistent and reasonable people. In the
summer evenings she should manage to sit down for two or three hours,
and for a short time in the afternoon in leisure days. A general servant’s
duties are so multifarious, that unless she be quick and active, she will
not be able to accomplish this. To discharge these various duties properly is
a difficult task, and sometimes a thankless office ; but it must be remembered
that a good maid-of-all-work will make a good servant in any capacity, and
may be safely taken not only without fear of failure, but with every probability
of giving satisfaction to her employer.

DUTIES OP THE DAIRY-MAID.

2357. The duties of tho dairy-maid differ considerably in different districts.
In Scotland, Wales, and some of the northern counties, women milk the cows.
On some of the large dairy farms in other parts of England, she takes her
share in the milking, but in private families the milking is generally performed
by the cowkeeper, and the dairy-maid only receives the milkpails from him
morning and night, and empties and cleans them preparatory to the next
milking ; her duty being to supply the family with milk, cream, and butter,
and other luxuries depending on the “milky mothers” of the herd.

2359. The Dairy.— The object with which gentlemen keep cows is to procure milk un-
adulterated, and sweet butter, for themselves and families : in order to obtain this,
however, great cleanliness is required, and as visitors, as well as the mistress of the
house, sometimes visit the dairy, some efforts are usually made to render it ornamental
and picturesque. The locality is usually fixed near to the house ; it should neither be
exposed to the fierce heat of the summer’s sun nor to the equally unfavourable frosts of
winter — it must be both sheltered and shaded. If it is a building apart from the house
and other offices, the walls should bo tolerably thick, and if hollow, the temperature
will bo more equable. The walls inside are usually covered with Dutch glazed tiles ; the
flooring also of glazed tiles set in asphalte, to resist water; and the ceiling, lath and
plaster, or closely-jointed woodwork, painted. Its architecture will be a matter of
fancy : it should have a northern aspect, and a thatched roof is considered most suitable,
from the shade and shelter it affords ; and it should contain at least two apartments,
besides a cool place for storing away butter. One of the apartments, in which the milk
is placed to deposit cream, or to ripen for churning, is usually surrounded by shelves of
marble or slate, on which the milk-dishes rest ; but it will be found a better plan to hav»
a large square or round table of stone in the centre, with a water-tight ledge all round
it, in which water may remain in hot weather, or, if some attempt at the picturesque

1000

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

is desired, a small fountain might occupy the centre, which would keep the apartment
cool and fresh. Hound this table tho milk-dishes should bo ranged ; one shelf or dresser
of 6lato or marble, being kept for tho various occupations of the dairy-maid : it will
bo found abetter plan than putting them on shelves and corners against the wall. There
should bo a funnel or veutilutor in the ceiling, communicating with tho open air, made
to open and shut as required. Double windows are recommended, but of the ’lattice
kind, so that they may open, nnd with wire-gauze blinds fitted into the opening, and
calico blinds, which may bo wetted when additional coolness is required. The other
apartment will bo used for churning, washing, and scrubbing— in fact, the sculler)' of tlio
dairy, with a boiler for hot water, and a sink with cold water laid on, which should be
plentiful and good. In some dairies a third apartment, or, at least, a cool airy pantry,
is required for storing away butter, with shelves of marble or slate, to hold the
cream-jars while it is ripening; and where cheeses are made, a fourth becomes necessary.
The dairy utensils arc not numerous, — churns, milk-pails for each cow, hair-sieves, slices
of tin, milk-pans, marble dishes for cream for family use, scales and weights, a portable
rack for drying the utensils, wooden bowls, butter-moulds and butter-patters, and wooden
tubs for washing the utensils, comprising pretty nearly everything.

2359. Pails aro made of maple-wood or elm, and hooped, or of tin, more or less or-
namented. One is required for each cow.

2360. The Hair-Sieve is made of closely-twisted horse-hair, with a rim, through which
tho milk is strained to remove any hairs which may have dropped from the cow in
milking.

23G1. Milk-Dishes are shallow basins of glass, of glazed earthenware, or tin, about 1G
inches in diameter at top, and 12 at the bottom, ana 5 or 6 inches deep, holding about 8
to 10 quarts each when lull.

2362. Churns are of all sorts and sizes, from that which churns 70 or 80 gallons by
means of a strap from the engine, to the square box in which a pound of butter is made.
The churn used for families is a square box, 18 inches by 12 or 13, and 17 deep, bevelled
below to the plane of the dashers, with a loose lid or cover. The dasher consists of an
axis of wood, to which the four beaters or fanners are attached ; these fans are ,

simply four pieces of elm strongly dovetailed together, forming an oblong J,

square, with a space left open, two of the openings being left broader than the y
others ; attached to an axle, they form an axis with four projecting blades ; the 1
axle fits into supports at the centre of the box; a handle is fitted to it, and the act of
churning is done by turning the handle.

2363. Such is tho temple in which the dairy-maid presides : it should be removed both
from stable and cowhouse, and larder ; no animal smells should come near it, and the
drainage should be perfect.

2364. The dairy-maid receives the milk from tho cowkeeper, each pail

being strained through the hair- sieve into one of the milk-basins. This is left
in the basins from twenty-four to thirty-six hours in the summer, according to
the weather ; after which it is skimmed off by means of the slicer, and poured
into glazed earthenware jars to “turn” for churning. Some persons prefer
making up a separate churning for the milk of each cow ; in which there is
some advantage. In this case the basins of each cow, for two days, would
either be kept together or labelled. As soon as emptied, the pails should bo
scalded and every particle of milk washed out, and placed away in a dry place
till next required ; and all milk spilt on the floor, or on tho tablo or dresser,
cleaned up with a cloth and hot water. Where very great attention is paid to
the dairy, tho milk-coolers aro used largor in winter, when it is desirable 'to
retard tho cooling down and increase the creamy deposit, and smaller in
summer, to hasten it ; the temperature required being from 55° to 50°. I11

summer it is sometimes expedient, in very sultry weather, to keep tho dairy
fresh and cool by suspending cloths dipped in chloride of limo across tho room.

DUTIES OF* THE DAIRY-MAID.

1007

-365- In some dairies it is usual to clium twice, aud in others throe
times a woek : the former produces tho best butter, tho other the greatest
quantity. With three cows, tho produce should be 27 to 30 quarts a day.
Tho dairy-maid should churn every day when very hot, if they are in full
milk, and every second day in more temperate weather ; besides supplying the
milk and cream required for a large establishment. The churning should
always be done in the morning : the dairy-maid will find it advantageous in
being at work on churning mornings by five o’clock. The operation occupies
from 20 minutes to half an hour in summer, and considerably longer in
winter. A steady uniform motion is necessary to produce sweet butter ; neither
too quick nor too slow. Eapid motion causes the cream to heave and swell,
from too much air being forced into it : the result is a tedious churning, and
soft, bad-coloured butter.

_ 2366. In spring and summer, when the cow has her natural food, no
artificial colour is required ; but in winter, under stall-feeding, the colour is
white and tallowy, and some persons prefer a higher colour. This is communi-
cated by mixing a little finely-powdered arnotto with the cream before putting
it into the churn ; a still more natural and delicate colour is communicated by
scraping a red carrot into a clean piece of linen cloth, dipping it into water,
and squeezing it into the cream.

2367. As soon as the butter comes, the milk is poured off, and the butter put
into a shallow wooden tub or bowl, full of pure spring water, in which it is
washed and kneaded, pouring off the water, and renewing it until it comes
away perfectly free from milk. Imperfect washing is the frequent cause of
bad butter, and in nothing is the skill of the dairy-maid tested more than in
this process ; moreover, it is one in which cleanliness of habits and person are
most necessary. In this operation we want the aid of Phyllis’s neat, soft, and
perfectly clean hand ; for no mechanical operation can so well squeeze out the
sour particles of milk or curd.

2368. The operations of churning and butter-making over, the butter-milk
is disposed of: usually, in England, it goes to the pigs; but it is a very
wholesome beverage when fresh, and some persons like it; the disposal,
therefore, will rest with the mistress : the dairy-maid’s duty is to get rid of
it. She must then scald with boiling water and scrub out every utensil she
has used; brash out the churn, clean out the cream-jars, which will probably
require the use of a little common soda to purify ; wipe all dry, and place
them in a position where the sun can reach them for a short time, to sweeten
them.

2309. In Devonshire, celebrated for its dairy system, the milk is always scalded. Tho
milk-pan3, which are of tin, and contain from 10 to 12 quarts, after standing 10 or 12
hours, are placed on a hot plate of iron, over a stove, until the cream has formed
on the surlaco, which is indicated by the air-bubbles rising through tho milk, and
producing blisters on tho surface-coating of cream. This indicates its approach to tho
boiling point : and the vessel is now removed to cool. When sufficiently, that is, quite

1008

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

cool, the cream is skimmed off with the slice : it is now the clouted cream for which
Devonshire is so famous. It is now placed in the churn, and churned until the butter
comes, which it generally does in a much shorter time than by the other process The
butter so mado contains moro cateine than butter made in the usual wav, but does not
keep so long.

2370. Ib is a question frequently discussed, how far it is economical for
families to kcop cows and make their own butter. It is calculated that a good
cow costs from May 1 to October 1, when well but economically kept,
£5. 16s. 6 d. ; and from October 1 to April 30, £10. 2s. 6 d. During that time
she should produce 227 lbs. of butter, besides the skimmed milk. Of course,
if new milk and cream are required, that will diminish the quantity of butter.

2371. Besides churning and keeping her dairy in order, the dairy-maid has
charge of the whole produce, handing it over to the cook, butler, or house-
maid as required ; and she will do well to keep an exact account both of what
she receives and how and when she disposes of it.

DUTIES OF THE LAUNDRY-MAID.

2372. The laundry-maid is charged with the duty of washing and getting-up
the family linen, — a situation of great importance where the washing is all done
at home ; but in large towns, where there is little convenience for bleaching
and drying, it is chiefly done by professional laundresses and companies, who
apply mechanical and chemical processes to the purpose. These processes,
however, are supposed to injure the fabric of the linen ; and in many families I
the fine linen, cottons, and muslins, are washed and got-up at home, even
where the bulk of the washing is given out. In country and suburban houses,
where greater conveniences exist, washing at home is more common, — in-
country places universal.

2373. The laundry establishment consists of a washing-house, an ironing
and drying- room, and sometimes a drying-closet heated by furnaces. The
washing-house will probably be attached to the kitchen ; but it is better that
it should be completely detached from it, and of one story, with a funnel or
shaft to carry off the steam. It will be of a size proportioned to the extent of ||
the washing to be done. A range of tubs, either round or oblong, opposite |
to, and sloping towards, tlio light, narrower at the bottom than the top, for I
convenience in stooping over, and fixed at a height suited to the convenience
of the women using them ; each tub having a tap for hot and cold water, and
another in the bottom, communicating with the drains, for drawing off fouL;
■water. A boiler and furnace, proportioned in size to the wants of tho family,
should also be fixed. The flooring should be York stone, laid on brick piers,
with good drainage, or asphalte, sloping gently towards a gutter connected
with tho drain.

DUTIES OF THE LAUNDRY-MAID.

1009

2374. Adjoining the bleaching-house, a second room, about tbe same size, is
required for ironing, drying, and mangbng. Tbe contents of tbis room should
comprise an ironing-board, opposite to tbe light ; a strong white deal table,
about twelve or fourteen feet long, and about three and a half feet broad, with
drawers for ironing-blankets ; a mangle in one corner, and clothes-horses for
drying and airing ; cupboards for holding tbe various irons, starch, and other
articles used in ironing ; a hot-plate built in tbe chimney, with furnace be-
neath it for beating tbe irons ; sometimes arranged with a flue for carrying
tbe hot air round tbe room for drying. Where tbis is tbe case, however, there
should be a funnel in tbe ceiling for ventilation and carrying off steam ; but a
better arrangement is to have a hot-air closet adjoining, heated by hot-air
pipes, and lined with iron, with proper arrangements for carrying off steam,
and clothes-horses on castors running in grooves, to run into it for drying
purposes. This leaves the laundry free from unwholesome vapour.

2375. The laundry-maid should commence her labours on Monday morning
by a careful examination of the articles committed to her care, and enter them
in the washing-book ; separating the white linen and collars, sheets and body-
linen, into one heap, fine muslins into another, coloured cotton and linen fabrics
into a third, woollens into a fourth, and the coarser kitchen and other greasy
cloths into a fifth. Every article should be examined for ink- or grease-spots, or
for fruit- or wine-stains. Ink-spots are removed by dipping the part into hot
water, and then spreading it smoothly on the hand or on the back of a spoon,
pouring a few drops of oxalic acid or salts of sorel over the ink -spot, rubbing
and rinsing it in cold water till removed ; grease-spots, by rubbing over with
yellow soap, and rinsing in hot water ; fruit- and wine-spots, by dipping in a
solution of sal ammonia or spirits of wine, and rinsing.

2376. Every article having been examined and assorted, the sheets and fine
linen should bo placed in one of the tubs and j ust covered with lukewarm water,
in which a little soda has been dissolved and mixed, and left there to soak till
the morning. The greasy cloths and dirtier things should be laid to soak in
another tub, in a liquor composed of J lb. of unslaked lime to every 6 quarts
of water which has been boiled for two hours, then left to settle, and strained
off when clear. Each article should be rinsed in this liquor to wet it tho-
roughly, and left to soak till the morning, just covered by it when the things
are pressed together. Coppers and boilers should now be filled, and the fires
laid ready to light.

•2377- Early on the following morning the fires should be lighted, and as
soon as hot water can be procured, washing commenced ; the sheets and
body-linen being wanted to whiten in the morning, should be taken first ;
each article being removed in succession from the lye in which it has been
soaking, rinsed, rubbed, and wrung, and laid aside until the tub is empty,
when the foul water is drawn off. The tub should bo again filled with luke-
warm water, about 80°, in which the articles should again be plunged, and

3 T

1010

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

each, gone over carefully with soap, and rubbed. Novices in the art sometimes
rub the linen against the skin ; more experienced washerwomen rub one linen
surface against tho other, which saves their hands, and onables them to con-
tinue their labour much longer, besides economizing time, two parts being
thus cleaned at once.

2378. After this first washing, the linen should bo put into a second water
as hot as the hand can bear, and again rubbed over in every part, examining
evory part for spots not yet moved, which require to be again soaped over and
rubbed till thoroughly clean ; then rinsed and wrung, tho larger and stronger
articles by two of the women ; the smaller and more dolicate articles requiring
gentler treatment.

2379. In order to remove every particle of soap, and produce a good colour,
they should now be placed, and boiled for about an hour and a half in the
copper, in which soda, in tho proportion of a teaspoonful to every two gallons
of water, has been dissolved. Some very, careful laundresses put the linen into
a canvas bag to protect it from the scum and the sides of the copper. When
taken out, it should again be rinsed, first in clean hot water, and then in abun-
dance of cold water slightly tinged with fig-blue, and again wrung dry. It
should now be removed from the washing-house and hung up to dry or spread
out to bleach, if there are conveniences for it ; and tho earlier in the day this
is done, thh clearer and whiter will be the linen.

•

2380. Coloured muslins, cottons, and linens, require a milder treatment;
any application of soda will discharge the colour, and soaking all night,
even in pure water, deteriorates the more delicate tints. When ready for
washing, if not too dirty, they should be put into cold water and washed very
speedily, using the common yellow soap, which should be rinsed off imme-
diately. One article should be washed at a time, and rinsed out immediately
before any others are wetted. When washed thoroughly, they should bo
rinsed in succession in soft water, in which common salt has been dissolved,
in tho proportion of a handful to three or four gallons, and afterwards wrung
gently, as soon as rinsed, with as littlo twisting as possible, and then hung
out to dry. Delicate-coloured articles should not be exposed to the sun,
but dried in the shade, using clean lines and wooden pegs.

2381. Woollen articles .are liable to shrink, unless the flannel has been well
shrunk before making up. This liability is increased where very hot water is
usod : cold water would thus be the best to wash woollens in ; but, as this
would not remove the dirt, lukewarm water, about 85°, and yellow soap, are
recommended. When thoroughly washed in this, they require a good deal
of rinsing in cold water, to remove the soap.

2382. Greasy cloths, which have soaked all night in the liquid described,
should bo now washed out with soap -and- wator as hot as the hands can bear.

DUTIES OF THE LAUNDRY-MAID.

1011

first in one 'water, and rinsed out in a second ; and afterwards boiled for two
hours in water in which a little soda is dissolved. When taken out, they
should be rinsed in cold water, and laid out or hung up to dry.

2383. Silk handkerchiefs require to be washed alone. When they contain
snuff, they should be soaked by themselves in lukewarm water two or three
hours; they should be rinsed out and put to soak with the others in cold
water for an hour or two ; then washed in lukewarm water, being soaped as
they are washed. If this does not remove all stains, they should be washed a
second time in similar water, and, when finished, rinsed in soft water in which
a handful of common salt has been dissolved. In washing stuff or woollen
dresses, the band at, the waist and the liuingat the bottom should be removed,
and wherever it is gathered into folds; and, in furniture, the hems and
gatherings. A black silk dress, if very dirty, must be washed ; but, if only
soiled, soaking for four-and-twenty hours will do ; if old and rusty, a joint of
common spirits should be mixed with each gallon of water, which is an
improvement under any circumstances. Whether soaked or washed, it should
be hung up to drain, and dried without wringing.

2384. Satin and silk ribbons, both white and coloured, may be cleaned in
the same manner.

2385. Silks, when washed, should be dried in the shade, on a linen-horse,
taking care that they are kept smooth and unwrinkled. If black or blue,
they will be improved if laid again on the table, when dry, and sponged with
gin, or whiskey, or other white spirit. "

2386. The operations should be concluded by rinsing the tubs, cleaning the
coppers, scrubbing the floors of the washing-house, and restoring everything
to order and cleanliness.

2387. Thursday and Friday, in a laundry in full employ, Are usually
devoted to mangling, starching, and ironing.

■sr

2388. Linen, cotton, and other fabrics, after being washed and dried, are
made smooth and glossy by mangling and by ironing. The mangling process,
which is simply passing them between rollers subjected to a very considerable
pressure; produced by weight, is confined to sheets, towels, table-linen,
and similar articles, which are without folds or plaits. Ironing is necessary
to smooth body-linen, and made-up articles of delicate texture or gathered
into folds. The mangle is too well known to need description.

2399. Ironing. — The irons consist of the common flat-iron, which is of different sizes,
varying from 4 to 10 inches in length, triangular in form, and from 2^ to inches
in width at the broad end; the oval iron, which is used lor more delicate articles;
and the box-iron, which is hollow, and heated by a red-hot iron iuserted into the box.

Italian iron is a hollow tube, smooth on the outside, and raised on a slender pedestal
with a footstalk. Into the hollow cylinder a red-hot iron is pushed, which heats it ; and

3 T 2

1012

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

the smooth ontsido of the letter is used, on which articles snch as frills, and plaited
articles, are drawn. Crimping- and gaufl'cring-machines are used for a kind of plaiting
where much regularity is required, tho articles being passed through two iron rollers
fluted 60 as to represent tho kind of plait or fold required.

2390. Starching is a process by which stiffness is communicated to certain
parts of linen, as tho collar and front of shirts, by dipping them in a paste
made of starch boiled in water, mixed with a little gum Arabic, where extra
stiffness is required.

To make Starch.

2391. Ingkedients. — Allow J pint of cold water and 1 quart of boiling
water to every 2 tablespoonfuls of starch.

Mode. — Put the starch into a tolerably large basin ; pour over it the cold
water, and stir the mixture well with a wooden spoon until it is perfectly free
from lumps, and quite smooth. Then take the basin to the fire, and whilst
the water is actually hailing in the kettle or boiler, pour it over the starch,
stirring it the whole time. If made properly in this manner, the starch will
require no further boiling ; but should tho water not be boiling when added
to the starch, it will not thicken, and must be put into a clean saucepan, and
stirred over the fire until it boils. Take it off the fire, strain it into a clean
basin, cover it up to prevent a skin forming on the top, and, when sufficiently
cool that the hand may be borne in it, starch the things. Many persons, to
give a shiny and smooth appearance to the linen when ironed, stir round two
or three times in the starch a piece of wax candle, which also prevents the
iron from sticking.

2392. When the “things to be starched” are washed, dried, and taken
off the lines, they should be dipped into the hot starch made as directed,
squeezed out of it, and then just dipped into cold water, and immediately
squeezed dry. If fine things be wrung, or roughly used, they are very liable
to tear ; so too much care cannot be exercised in this respect. If the article
is lace, clap it between the hands a few times, which will assist to clear it ;
then have ready laid out on the table a large clean towel or cloth ; shake out
the starched things, lay them on the cloth, and roll it up tightly, and let it
remain for three or fours, when the things will be ready to iron.

2393. To be able to iron properly requires much practice and experience.
Strict cleanliness with all the ironing utensils must be observed, as, if this is 1
not the case, not the most expert ironer will be able to make her things look
clear and freo from smears, &c. After wiping down her ironing-table, tho
laundry-maid should place a coarse cloth on it, and over that the ironing-
blanket, with her stand and iron-rubber ; and having ascertained that hex
irons aro quite clean and of tho right heat, she proceeds with her work.

2394. It is a good plan to try tho heat of tho iron on a coarse cloth or
apron before ironing anything fine : there is then no danger of scorching. For
ironing fine things, such as collars, cuffs, muslins, and laces, there is nothing

DUTIES OF THE NUItSEMMD.

1013

SO clean and nice to use as the box-iron ; the bottom being bright, and never
placed near the fire, it is always perfectly clean ; it should, however, be kept
in a dry place, for fear of its rusting. Gauffering-tongs or irons must be
placed in a clear fire for a minute, then withdrawn, wiped with a coarse
rubber, and the heat of them tried on a piece of paper, as, unless great care
is taken, these will very soon scorch.

2395. The skirts of muslin dresses should be ironed on a skirt-board covered
with flannel, and the fronts of shirts on a smaller board, also covered with,
flannel ; this board being placed between the back and front.

2396. After things are mangled, they should also be ironed in the folds and
gathers ; dinner-napkins smoothed over, as also table-cloths, pillow-cases, and
sometimes sheets. The bands of flannel petticoats, and shoulder-straps to
flannel waistcoats, must also undergo the same process.

UPPER AND UNDER NURSEMAIDS.

2397. The nursery is of great importance in every family, and in families of
distinction, where there are several young children, it is an establishment
kept apart from the rest of the family, under the charge of an upper nurse,
assisted by under nursery-maids proportioned to the work to be done. The
responsible duties of upper nursemaid commence with the weaning of the
child : it must now be separated from the mother or wet-nurse, at least for a
time, and the cares of the nursemaid, which have hitherto been only
occasionally put in requisition, are now to be entirely devoted to the infant.
She washes, dresses, and feeds it ; walks out with it, and regulates all its
little wants ; and, even at this early age, many good qualities are required to
do so in a satisfactory manner. Patience and good temper are indispensable
qualities ; truthfulness, purity of manners, minute cleanliness, and docility and
obedience, almost equally so. She ought also to be acquainted with the art
of ironing and trimming little caps, and be handy with her needle.

2398. There is a considerable art in carrying an infant comfortably for itself and for
the nursemaid. If she carry it always seated upright on her arm, and presses it too
closely against her chest, the stomach of the child is apt to get compressed, and the back
fatigued. For her own comfort, a good nurse will frequently vary this position, by
changing from one arm to the other, and sometimes by laying it across both, raising the
head a little. When teaching it to walk, and guiding it by the baud, she should change
thi hand from time to time, so as to avoid raising one shoulder higher than the other.
This is the only way iu which a child should be taught to walk; leading-strings and
other foolish inventions, which force an infant to make efforts, with its shoulders and
head forward, before it knows how to use its limbs, will only render it feeble, and retard
its progress.

2399. Most children have some bad habit, of which they must be broken ; but this is
never accomplished by harshness without developing worse ovils : kindness, perseverance,
and patience in the nurse, are here of the utmost importance. When finger-sucking is
one oftheso habits, the lingers are sometimes rubbed with bitter aloes, or some equally dis-
agreeable substance. Others havo dirty habits, which are only to be changed by patience.

1014

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

perseverance, and, above all, by regularity in the nurse. She should never be permitted
to inflict punishment on these occasions, or, indeed, on any occasion. But, if punish-
ment is to be avoided, it is still more necessary that all kinds of indulgences and flattery
bo equally forbidden. Yielding to all the whims of a child, — picking up its toys when
thrown away in moro wantonness, would bo intolerable. A child should never be led to
think others inferior to it, to beat a dog, or even the stone against which it falls, as some
children are taught to do by silly nurses. Neither should the nurse affect or show alarm
at any of the little accidents which must inevitably happen : if it falls, treat it as a trifle;
otherwise she encourages a spirit of cowardice and timidity. But she will take care that
such accidents are not of frequent occurrence, or the result of neglect.

2100. Tho nurse should keep the child as clean as possible, and particularly she should
train it to habits of cleauliuess, so that it should feel uncomfortable when otherwise ;
watching especially that it does not soil itself in eating. At the same time, vanity in its
personal appearance is not to be encouraged by over-care in this respect, or by too tight
lacing or buttoning of dresses, nor a small foot cultivated by the use of tight shoes.

2101. Nursemaids would do well to repeat to the parents faithfully and truly the
defects they observe in the dispositions of very young children. If properly checked in
time, evil propensities may be eradicated ; but this should not extend to anything bat
serious defects ; otherwise, the intuitive perceptions which all children possess will con-
strue the act into “ spying ” and “ informing," which should never be resorted to in the
case of children, nor, indeed, in any case.

2402. Such, arc tlie cares which devolve upon the nursemaid, and it is her
duty to fulfil them personally. In large establishments sho will have assistants
proportioned to tho number of children of which she has the care. The under
nursemaid lights the fires, sweeps, scours, and dusts tho rooms, and makes
the beds ; empties slops, and carries up water ; brings up and removes the
nursery meals ; washes and dresses all the children, except the infant, and
assists in mending. Where there is a nursery girl to assist, she does the
rougher part of the cleaning; and all take their meals in the nursery together,
after the children of the family have done.

2403. In smaller families, where there is only one nursemaid kept, she is
assisted by the housemaid, or servant-of-all-work, who will do the rougher
part of the work, and carry up the nursery meals. In such circumstances she
will be more immediately under the eye of her mistress, who will probably
relieve her from some of the cares of the infant. In higher families, tho upper
nurse is usually permitted to sup or dine occasionally at the housekeeper’s
table by way of relaxation, when the children are all well, and her subordinates
trustworthy.

2404. Where tho nurse has the entire charge of the nursery, and the mother
is too much occupied to do more than pay a daily visit to it, it is desirable
that she be a person of observation, and possess somo acquaintance with the
diseases incident to childhood, as also with such simple remedies as may bo
useful before a medical attendant can be procured, or where such attendance
is not considered necessary. All these littlo ailments aro preceded by symp-
toms so minute as to bo only porceptiblo to closo observation ; sueli as twitching
of the brows, restless sleep, grinding the gums, and, in somo inflammatory
diseases, oven to tho child abstaining from crying, from fear of the iucreasod
pain produced by the movement. Dentition, or cutting the teeth, is attended

DUTIES OP THE NURSEMAID.

1015

with many of these symptoms. Measles, thrush, scarlatina, croup, hooping-
cough, and other childish complaints, are all preceded by well-known symp-
toms, which may be alleviated and rendered less virulent by simple remedies
instantaneously applied.

C405. Dentition is usually the first serious trouble, bringing many other
disorders in its train. The symptoms are most perceptible to the mother : the
child sucks feebly, and with gums hot, inflamed, and swollen. In this case, relief
is yielded by rubbing them from time to time with a little of Mrs. Johnson’s
soothing syrup, a valuable and perfectly safe medicine. Selfish and thought-
less nurses, and mothers too, sometimes give cordials and sleeping-draughts,
whose effects are too well known.

2406. Convulsion Fits sometimes follow the feverish restlessness produced by
these causes ; in which case a hot bath should be administered without delay,
and the lower parts of the body rubbed, the bath being as hot as it can be
without scalding the tender skin ; at the same time, the doctor should be sent
for immediately, for no nurse should administer medicine in this case, unless
the fits have been repeated and the doctor has left directions with her how
to act.

2407. Croup is one of the most alarming diseases of childhood ; it is accom-
panied with a hoarse, croaking, ringing cough, and comes on very suddenly,
and most so in strong, robust children. A very hot bath should be instantly
administered, followed by an emetic, either in the form of tartar-emetic, croup-
powder, or a teaspoonful of ipecacuhana, wrapping the body warmly up in
flannel after the bath. The slightest delay in administering the bath, or the
emetic, may be fatal ; hence, the importance of nurses about very young
children being acquainted with the symptoms.

2408. Hooping-Cough is generally preceded by the moaning noise daring-
sleep, which even adults threatened with the disorder cannot avoid : it is fol-
lowed by violent fits of coughing, which little can be done to relieve. A. child
attacked by this disorder should be kept as much as possible in the fresh, pure
air, but out of draughts, and kept warm, and supplied with plenty of nourishing
food. Many fatal diseases flow from this scourge of childhood, and a change
to purer air, if possible, should follow convalescence.

2409. Worms are the torment of some children : the symptoms are, an
unnatural craving for food, even after a full meal ; costiveness, suddenly fol-
lowed by the reverse ; fetid breath, a livid circle under the eyes, enlarged
abdomen, and picking tho nose ; for which the remedies must be prescribed
by the doctor.

2410. Measles and Scarlatina much rosemble each other in their early
stages : headache, restlessness, and fretfulness are the symptoms of both.

1016

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Shivering fits, succeeded by a hot skin ; pains in the back and limbs, accom-
panied by sickness, and, in severe cases, sore throat ; pain about the jaws,
difficulty in swallowing, running at the eyes, which become red and inflamed,
•whilo the face is hot and flushed, often distinguish scarlatina and scarlet
fover, of which it is only a mild form.

2411. While the case is doubtful, a dessert-spoonful of spirit of nitre diluted
in water, given at bedtime, will throw the child into a gentle perspiration,
and will bring out the rash in either case. In measles, this appears first on
the face ; in scarlatina, on the chest ; and in both cases a doctor should bo
called in. In scarlatina, tartar-emetic powder or ipecacuhana may be admi-
nistered in the mean time.

2412. In all cases, cleanliness, fresh air, clean utensils, and frequent washing
of the person, both of nurse and children, are even more necessary in the
nursery than in either drawing-room or sick-room, inasmuch as the delicate
organs of childhood are more susceptible of injury from smells and vapours
than adults.

2413. It may not be out of place if we conclude this brief notice of the
duties of a nursemaid, by an extract from Florence Nightingale’s admirable
“Notes on Nursing.” Referring to children, she says : —

2414. “They are much more susceptible than grown people to all noxious influences.
They are affected by the same things, but much more quickly and seriously; by want of
fresh air, of proper warmth ; want of cleanliness in house, clothes, bedding, or body ;
by improper food, want of punctuality, by dulness, by want of light, by too much or
too little covering in bed or when up.” And all this in health ; and then she quotes a.
passage from a lecture on sudden deaths in infancy, to show the importance of careful
nursing of children “ In the great majority of instances, when death suddenly befalls
the infant or young child, it is an accident ; it is not a necessary, inevitable result of any
disease. That which is known to injure children most seriously is foul air ; keeping the
rooms where they sleep closely shut up is destruction to them ; and, if the child'9
breathing be disordered by disease, a few hours only of such foul air may endanger its
life, even where no inconvenience is felt by grown-up persons in the room.”

2415. Persons moving in the best society will see, after perusing Miss Nightingale’s
book, that this “foul air," “want of light,” “too much or too little clothing,” and
improper food, is not confined to Crown Street or St. Giles’s ; that Belgravia and tho
squares have their north room, where the rays of the sun never reach. “A wooden
bedstead, two or three mattresses piled up to above the height of the table, a vallanco
attached to the frame, — nothing but a miracle could ever thoroughly dry or air such a
bed and bedding," — is the ordinary bed of a private house, thau which nothing can be
more unwholesome. “ Don’t treat your children like sick,” she sums up ; “ don’t dose
them with tea. Let them eat meat and drink milk, or half a glass of light beer. Givo
them fresh, light, sunny, and open rooms, cool bedrooms, plenty of outdoor exercise,
facing even the cold, and wind, and weather, in sufficiently warm clothes, and with
sufficient exercise, plenty of amusements and play ; more liberty, and less schooling, and
cramming, and training; more attention to food and less to physic."

1017

DUTIES OP THE SICK-NURSE.

2416. Ali women are likely, at some period of their lives, to be called on to
perform the duties of a sick-nurse, and should prepare themselves as much as
possible, by observation and reading, for the occasion when they may he
required to perform the office. The main requirements are good temper,
compassion for suffering, sympathy with sufferers, which most women worthy
of the name possess, neat-handedness, quiet manners, love of order, and clean-
liness. With these qualifications there will be very little to be wished for ;
the desire to relieve suffering will inspire a thousand little attentions, and
surmount the disgusts which some of the offices attending the sick-room are
apt to create. Where serious illness visits a household, and protracted nursing
is likely to become necessary, a professional nurse will probably be engaged,
who has been trained to its duties ; but in some families, and those not a few
let us hope, the ladies of the family would oppose such an arrangement
as a failure of duty on their part. There is, besides, even when a professional
nurse is ultimately called in, a period of doubt and hesitation, while disease
has not yet developed itself, when the patient must be attended to ; and, in
these cases, some of the female servants of the establishment must give their
attendance in the sick-room. There are, also, slight attacks of cold, influenza,
and accidents in a thousand forms, to which all are subject, where domestic
nursing becomes a necessity ; where disease, though unattended with danger,
is nevertheless accompanied by the nervous irritation incident to illness, and
when all the attention of the domestic nurse becomes necessary.

2417. In the first stage of sickness, while doubt and a little perplexity hang-
over the household as to the nature of the sickness, there are some things
about which no doubt can exist : the patient’s room must be kept in a perfectly
pure state, and arrangements made for proper attendance ; for the first canon
of nursing, according to Florence Nightingale, its apostle, is to “ keep the air
the patient breathes as pure as the external air, without chilling him.” This
can be done without any preparation which might alarm the patient ; with
proper windows, open fireplaces, and a supply of fuel, the room may be as
fresh as it is outside, and kept at a temperature suitable for the patient’s
stato.

2418. Windows, however, must be opened from above, and not from below,
and draughts avoided ; cool air admitted beneath the patient’s head chills
the lower strata and the floor. The careful nurse will keep the door shut
when the window is open ; she will also take care that the patient is not
placed between the door and the open window, nor between the open fireplace
and the window. If confined to bed, she will see that the bed is placed in a
thoroughly ventilated part of the room, but out of the current of air which is
produced by the momentary opening of doors, as well as out of the line of

101S

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

draught between the window and the open chimney, and that the temperature
of the room is kept about 64°. Where it is necessary to admit air by the
door, the windows should bo closed ; but there are few circumstances in which
good air can bo obtained through the chamber-door; through it, on the
contrary, the gases generated in the lower parts of the house are likely to bo
drawn into the invalid chamber.

•

2419. These precautions taken, and plain nourishing diet, such as the
patient desires, furnished, probably little more can be done, unless more
serious symptoms present themselves ; in which case medical advice will
be sought.

2420. Under no circumstances is ventilation of the sick-room so essential as
in cases of febrile diseases, usually considered infectious ; such as typhus and
puerperal fevers, influenza, hooping-cough, small- and chickcn-pox, scarlet
fever, measles, and erysipelas : all these are considered communicable through
the air ; but there is little danger of infection being thus communicated, pro-
vided the room is kept thoroughly ventilated. On the contrary, if this essen-
tial be neglected, the power of infection is greatly increased and concentrated
in the confined and impure ah ; it settles upon the clothes of the attendants
and visitors, especially . whero they are of wool, and is frequently commu-
nicated to other families in thi3 manner.

2421. Under all circumstances, therefore, the sick-room should be kept
as fresh and sweet as the open ah, while the temperature is kept up by
artificial heat, taking care that the fire burns clear, and gives out no smoke
into the room ; that the room is perfectly clean, wiped over with a damp
cloth every day, if boarded ; and swept, after sprinkling with damp tea-leaves,
or other aromatic loaves, if carpeted ; that all utensils are emptied and
cleaned as soon as used, and not once in four-and-twenty hours, as is some-
times done. “A. slop-pail,” Miss Nightingale says, “should never enter a
sick-room ; everything should be carried direct to the water-closet, emptied
there, and brought up clean ; in the best hospitals the slop-pail is unknown.”
“ I do not approve,” says Miss Nightingale, “ of making housemaids of nurses,
— that would be waste of means ; but I have seen surgical sisters, women whose
hands were worth to them two or three guineas a week, down on thoir knees,
scouring a room or hut, because they thought it was not fit for their patients :
these women had the true nurse spirit.”

2422. Bad smells are sometimes mot by sprinkling a little liquid chloride of
lime on the floor ; fumigation by burning pastiles is also a common expedient
for the purification of the sick-room. They are useful, but only in the sense
hinted at by the medical lecturer, wdio commenced his lecturo thus : — “ Fumi-
gations, gentlemen, are of essential importance ; they mako so abominable a
smell, that they compel you to open the windows and admit fresh air.” In this
sense they are useful, but ineffectual unless the causo be removed, and fresh
air admitted.

DUTIES OF THE SICK-EUESB.

1010

2423. Tlio sick-room should be quiet ; no talking, no gossiping, and, above
all, no whispering, — this is absolute cruelty to tho patient ; he thinks his
complaint the subject, and strains his ear painfully to catch the sound. No
rustling of dresses, nor creaking shoes either ; where the carpets are taken
up, the nurse should wear list shoes, or some other noiseless material, and
her dress should be of soft material that does not rustle. Miss Nightingale
denounces crinoline, and quotes Lord Melbourne on the subject of women
in the sick-room, who said, “I would rather have men about me, when ill,
than women ; it requires very strong health to put up with women.” Un-
grateful man ! but absolute quiet is necessary in the sick-room.

2424. Never let the patient be waked out of his first sleep by noise, never
roused by anything like a surprise. Always sit in the apartment, so that the
patient has you in view, and that it is not necessary for him to turn in speak-
ing to you. Never keep a patient standing ; never speak to one while moving.
Never lean on the sick-bed. Above all, be calm and decisive with the patient,
and prevent all noises over-head.

2425. A careful nurse, when a patient leaves his bed, will open the sheets
wide, and throw the clothes back so as thoroughly to air the bed. She will
avoid drying or airing anything damp in the sick-room.

2426. “It is another fallacy,” says Florence Nightingale, “to suppose that
night air is injurious ; a great authority told me that, in London, the air is
never so good as after ten o’clock, when smoke has diminished ; but then it
must be air from without, not within, and not air vitiated by gaseous airs.”
“A great fallacy prevails also,” she says, in another section, “ about flowers
poisoning the air of the sick-room : no one ever saw them over-crowding the
sick-room ; but, if they did, they actually absorb carbonic acid and give off
oxygen.” Cut flowers also decompose water, and produce oxygen gas. Lilies,
and some other very odorous plants, may perhaps give out smells unsuited
to a close room, while the atmosphere of the sick-room should always be fresh
and natural.

2427. “ Patients,” says Miss Nightingale, “are sometimes starved in the
midst of plenty, from want of attention to the ways which alone make it
possible for them to take food. A spoonful of beef-tea, or arrowroot and
wine, or some other light nourishing diet, should be given every hour, for
the patient’s stomach will reject large supplies. In very weak patients there
is often a nervous difficulty in swallowing, which is much increased if food is
not ready and presented at the moment when it is wanted : the nurse should
be able to discriminate, and know when this moment is approaching.”

2428. Diet suitablo for patients will depend, in some degree, on their
natural likes and dislikes, which the nurse will do well to acquaint herself
with. Beef-tea is useful and relishing, but possesses little nourishment ; when
evaporated, it presents a teaspoonful of solid meat to a pint of water. Eggs

1020

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

are not equivalent to tho same woight of meat. Arrowroot is less nourishing
than (lour, Butter is the lightest and most digestible kind of fat. Cream, in
somo diseases, cannot bo replaced. But, to sum up with some of Miss
Nightingale’s useful maxims : — Observation is the nurse’s best guide, and the
patient’s appetite tho rule. Half a pint of milk is equal to a quarter of a
pound of meat. Beef-tea is tho least nourishing food administered to the
sick ; and tea and coffee, sho thinks, are both too much excluded from the
sick-room.

THE MONTHLY NURSE.

2429. The choice of a monthly nurse is of tho utmost importance ; and in
the case of a young mother with her first child, it would be well for her to
seek advice and counsel from her more experienced relatives in this matter.

In the first place, the engaging a monthly nurse in good time is of the utmost
importance, as, if she be competent and clever, her services will be sought
months beforehand ; a good nurse having seldom much of her time disengaged.
There are some qualifications which it is evident the nurse should possess :
she should be scrupulously clean and tidy in her person ; honest, sober, and
noiseless in her movements ; should possess a natural love for children,
and have a strong nerve in case of emergencies. Snuff-taking and spirit-
drinking must not be included in her habits ; but those are happily much
less frequent than they were in former days.

2430. Receiving, as she often will, instructions from the doctor, she should
bear those in mind, and carefully carry them out. In those instances where
she does not feel herself sufficiently informed, she should ask advice from the
medical man, and not take upon herself to administer medicines, &c., without
his knowledge.

2431. A monthly nurse should be between 30 and 50 years of age, sufficiently
old to have had a little experience, and yet not too old or infirm to be able to
perform various duties requiring strength and bodily vigour. She should be
able to wake the moment she is called, — at any hour of the night, that the
mother or child may have their wants immediately attended to. Good tem-
per, united to a kind and gentle disposition, is indispensable ; and, although
the nurse will frequently have much to endure from tho whims and caprices
of the invalid, she should make allowances for those, and command her
■temper, at the same time exerting her authority when it is necessary.

2432. What the nurse has to do in the way of cleaning and dusting her
lady’s room, depends entirely on the establishment that is kept. Where
there are plenty of servants, tho nurse, of course, has nothing whatever to do
but attend on her patient, and ring the bell for anything she may require.
Where the number of domestics is limited, she should not mind keeping her
room in order ; that is to say, sweeping and dusting it every morning. If '

DUTIES OF THE MONTHLY NURSE.

1021

fires be necessary, tbe housemaid should always clean the grate, and do all
that is wanted in that way, as this, being rather dirty work, would soil tlio
nurse’s dress, and unfit her to approach the bed, or take the infant without
soiling its clothes. In small establishments, too, the nurse should herself
fetch things she may require, and not ring every time she wants anything ;
and she must, of course, not leave her invalid unless she sees everything is
comfortable ; and then only for a few minutes. When down stairs, and in
company with the other servants, the nurse should not repeat what she may
have heard in her lady’s room, as much mischief may be done by a gossiping
nurse. As in most houses the monthly nurse is usually sent for a few days
before her services may be required, she should see that all is in readiness ;
that there be no bustle and hurry at the time the confinement takes place.
She should keep two pairs of sheets thoroughly aired, as well as night-dresses,
flannels, &c. kc. All the things which will be required to dress the baby the
first time should be laid in the basket in readiness, in the order in which they
are to be put on ; as well as scissors, thread, a few pieces of soft linen rag,
and two or three flannel squares. If a berceaunette is to be used immediately,
the nurse should ascertain that the mattresses, pillow, &e. are all well aired ;
and if not already done before she arrives, she should assist in covering and
trimming it, ready for the little occupant. A monthly nurse should be handy
at her needle, as, if she is in the house some time before the baby is born,
she will require some work of this sort to occupy her time. She should also
understand the making-up of little caps, although we can scarcely say this is
one of the nurse’s duties. As most children wear no caps, except out of doors,
her powers in this way will not bo much taxed.

2433. A nurse should endeavour to make her room as cheerful as possible,
and always keep it clean and tidy. She should empty the chamber utensils as
soon as used, and on no account put things under the bed.. Soiled baby’s
napkins should be rolled up and put into a pan, when they should be washed
out every morning, and hung out to dry : they are then in a fit state to send to
the laundress ; and should, on no account, be left dirty, but done every morning
in this way. The bedroom should be kept rather dark, particularly for tho
first week or ten days ; of a regular temperature, and as free as possible from
draughts, at the same time well ventilated and free from unpleasant smells.

2434. The infant during the month must not be exposed to strong light, or
much air ; and in carrying it about the passages, stairs, kc., the nurse should
always have its head-flannel on, to protect the eyes and ears from the currents
of air. For the management of children, we must refer our readers to the
following chapters ; and we need only say, in conclusion, that a good nurse
should understand the symptoms of various ills incident to this period, as, in
all cases, prevention is better than cure. As young mothers with their first
baby are very often much troubled at first with their breasts, the nurse should
understand the art of emptying them by suction, or some other contrivance.
If the breasts are kept well drawn, there will bo but little danger of inflam-

1022

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

mation ; and as tho infant at first cannot take all that is necessary, somethin;/
must be done to koep the inflammation down. This is ono of the greatest
difficulties a nurse has to contend with, and we can only advise her to be very
persevering, to rub tho breasts well, and to let the infant suck as soon
and as often as possible, until they get in proper order.

THE WET-KCraSE. •

2435. We are aware that, according to the opinion ot some ladies, there is
no domestic theme, during a certain period of their married lives, more
fraught with vexation and disquietude than that ever-fruitful source of annoy-
ance, “the Nurse ; ” but, as we believe, there are thousands of excellent wives
and mothers who pass through life without even a temporary embroglio in the
kitchen, or suffering a state of moral hectic tho wholo time of a nurse’s empire
in the nursery or bedroom. Our own experience goes to prove, that although
many unqualified persons palm themselves off on ladies as fully competent for
the duties they so rashly and dishonestly undertake to perform, and thus
expose themselves to ill-will and merited censure, there are still very many
fully equal to the legitimate exercise of what they undertake ; and if they do
not in every case give entire satisfaction, somo of tho fault, — and sometimes a
great deal of it, — may be honestly placed to tho account of the ladies them-
selves, who, in many instances, are so impressed with the propriety of their
own method of performing everything, as to insist upon the adoption of their
system in preference to that of the nurse, whose plaji is probably based on a
comprehensive forethought, and rendered perfect in all its details by an ami>le
experience.

2436. In all our remarks on this subject, we should remember with gentle-
ness the order of society from which our nurses are drawn ; and that those
who make their duty a study, and are termed professional nurses, have much
to endure from the caprice and egotism of their employers ; while others are
driven to the occupation from the laudable motive of feeding their own chil-
dren, and who, in fulfilling that object, are too often both selfish and sensual,
performing, without further interest than is consistent with their own advan-
tage, the routine of customary duties.

2437. Properly speaking, there are two nurses, — the nurse for tho mother
and the nurse for the child, or, the monthly and tho wet nurse. Of tho former
we have already spoken, and will now proceed to describe the duties of the
latter, and add somo suggestions as to her ago, physical health, and moral
conduct, subjects of tho utmost importance as far as tho charge intrusted
to her is concerned, and therefore demanding somo special remarks.

2438. When from illness, suppression of the milk, accident, or some natural
process, the mother is deprived of the pleasure of roaring her infant, it

DUTIES OF THE WET-NURSE.

1023

becomes necessary at onco to look around for a fitting substitute, so that the
child may not suffer, by any needless delay, a physical loss by the depi ivation
of its natural food. The first consideration should be as regards age, state of
health, and temper.

2439. The age, if possible, should not be less than twenty nor exceed thirty
years, with the health sound in every respect, and the body free from all
eruptive disease or local blemish. The best evidence of a sound state of health
will bo found in the woman’s clear open countenance, the ruddy tone of the
skin, the full, round, and elastic state of the breasts, and especially in the
erectile, firm condition of the nipple, which, in all unhealthy states of the
body, is pendulous, flabby, and relaxed ; in which case, the milk is sure to be
imperfect in its organization, and, consequently, deficient in its nutrient
qualities. Appetite is another indication of health in the suckling nurse or
mother ; for it is impossible a woman can feed her child without having a
corresponding appetite ; and though inordinate craving for food is neither
desirable nor necessary, a natural vigour should be experienced at meal- times,
and the food taken should be anticipated and enjoyed.

2440. Besides her health, the moral state of the nurse is to be taken into
account, or that mental discipline or principle of conduct which would deter
the nurse from at any time gratifying her own pleasures and appetites at tho
cost or suffering of her infant charge.

2441. The conscientiousness and good faith that would prevent a nurse so
acting are, unfortunately, very rare ; and many nurses, rather than forego tho
enjoyment of a favourite dish, though morally certain of the effect it will have
on the child, will, on the first opportunity, feed with avidity on fried meats,
cabbage, cucumbers, pickles, or other crude and injurious aliments, in defiance
of all orders given, or confidence reposed in their word, good sense, and

. humanity. And when the infant is afterwards racked with pain, and a night
of disquiet alarms the mother, the doctor is sent for, and the nurse, covering
her dereliction by a falsehood, the consequence of her gluttony is treated as
a disease, and the poor infant is dosed for some days with medicines, that can
do it but little if any good, and, in all probability, materially retard its
physical development. The selfish nurse, in her ignorance, believes, too,
that as long as she experiences no admonitory symptoms herself, the child
cannot suffer ; and satisfied that, whatever is the cause of its screams and
plunges, neither she, nor what she had eaten, had anything to do with it,
with this flattering assurance at her heart, she watches her opportunity,
and has another luxurious feast off the proscribed dainties, till the increasing
disturbance in the child’s health, or treachery from the kitchen, opens the
eyes of mother and doctor to the nurse’s unprincipled conduct. In all such
cases the infant should be spared the infliction of medicine, and, as a wholesome
corrective to herself, and relief to her charge, a good sound dose administered
to the nurse.

102-1

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

2442. Respecting the diet of the wet-nurse, the first point of importance is
to fix early and definite hours for every meal ; and the mother should see that
no cause is ever allowed to interfere with their punctuality. The food itself
should be light, easy of digestion, and simple. Boiled or roast moat, with
bread and potatoes, with occasionally a piece of sago, rice, or tapioca pudding,
should constitute the dinner, the only moal that requires special comment ;
broths, green vegetables, and all acid or salt foods, must be avoided. Fresh
fish, once or twice a week, may bo taken ; but it is hardly sufficiently nutri-
tious to be often used as a meal. If the dinner is taken early, — at one o’clock,
— there will be no occasion for luncheon, which too often, to the injury of the
child, is made the cover for a first dinner. Half a pint of stout, with a Reading
biscuit, at eleven o’clock, will be abundantly sufficient between breakfast at
eight and a good dinner, with a pint of porter at one o’clock. About eight
o’clock in the evening, half a pint of stout, with another biscuit, may be taken ;
and for supper, at ten or half-past, a pint of porter, with a slice of toast or
a small amount of bread and cheese, may conclude the feeding for the day.

2443. Animal food once in twenty-four hours is quite sufficient. All spirits,
unless in extreme cases, should be avoided ; and wine is still more seldom
needed. With a due quantity of plain digestible food, and the proportion of
stout and porter ordered, with early hours and regularity, the nurse will not
only be strong and healthy herself, but fully capable of rearing a child in
health and strength. There are two points all mothers, who are obliged to
employ wet-nurses, should remember, and be on their guard against. The
first is, never to allow a muse to give medicine to the infant on her own
authority : many have such an infatuated idea of the healing excellence of
castor-oil, that they would administer a dose of this disgusting grease twice a
week, and think they had done a meritorious service to the child. The next
point is, to watch carefully, lest, to insure a night’s sleep for herself, she does
not dose the infant with Godfrey’s cordial, syrup of poppies, or some narcotic
potion, to insure tranquillity to the one and give the opportunity of sleep to
the other. The fact that scores of nurses keep secret bottles of these deadly
syrups, for the purpose of stilling their charges, is notorious ; and that many
use them to a feax-ful extent, is sufficiently patent to all.

2444. It therefore behoves the mother, while obliged to trust to a nurse, to
use her best discretion to guard her child from the unprincipled treatment of
the person she must, to a certain extent, depend upon and trust ; and to
remember, in all cases, rather than resort to castor-oil or sedatives, to con-
sult a medical man for her infant in preference to following the counsel of
her nurse.

1025

THE

BEARING, MANAGEMENT, AND DISEASES 0E

INFANCY AND CHILDHOOD.

CHAPTER XL 1 1.

Physiology of Life, as illustrated by Respiration, Circulation,

and Digestion,

■2445. The infantine management of children, like the mother’s love for her
offspring, seems to he bom with the child, and to be a direct intelligence oi
Nature. It may thus, at first sight, appear as inconsistent and presumptuous
to tell a woman how to rear her infant as to instruct her in the manner of
loving it. Yet, though Nature is unquestionably the best nurse, Art makes so
admirable a foster-mother, that no sensible woman, in her novitiate of parent,
would refuse the admonitions of art, or the teachings of experience, to con-
summate her duties of nurse. It is true that, in a civilized state of society,
few young wives reach the epoch that makes them mothers without some
insight, traditional or practical, into the management of infants : consequently,
the cases wherein a woman is left to her own unaided intelligence, or what,
in such a case, may be called instinct, and obliged to trust to the promptings
of nature alone for the well-being of her child, are very rare indeed. Again,
every woman is not gifted with the same physical ability for the harassing
duties of a mother ; and though Nature, as a general rule, has endowed all
female creation with the attributes necessary to that most beautiful and, at
the same time, holiest function, — the healthy rearing of their offspring, — the
cases are sufficiently numerous to establish the exception, where the mother is
either physically or socially incapacitated from undertaking these most
pleasing duties herself, and where, consequently, she is compelled to trust
to adventitious aid for those natural benefits which are at once the mother’s
pride and delight to render to her child.

■2446. In these cases, when obliged to call in the services of hired assistance,
she must trust the dearest obligation of her life to one who, from her social
sphere, has probably notions of rearing children diametrically opposed to the
preconceived ideas of the mother, and at enmity with all her sentiments of
right and prejudices of position.

2447. It has justly been said — wo think by Hood — that the children of the
poor are not brought up, but dragged up. However facetious this remark
may seem, thero is much truth in it ; and that children, reared in the reeking

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1026

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

dens of squalor and poverty, live at all, is an apparent anomaly in tlie course
Qf things, that, at first sight, would seem to set the laws of sanitary provision
at defiance, and make it appear a perfect waste of time to insist on pure air
and oxorcise as indispensable necessaries of life, and especially so as regards
infantine existence.

2448. Wo see elaborate care bestowed on a family of children, everything
studied that can tend to their personal comfort, — pure air, pure water, regular
ablution, a dietary prescribed by art, and every precaution adopted that
medical judgment and maternal love can dictate, for the well-being of the
parents’ hope ; and find, in despite of all this care and vigilance, disease and
death invading the guarded treasure. We turn to the foetor and darkness
that, in some obscure court, attend the robust brood who, coated in dirt, and
with mud and refuse for playthings, live and thrive, and grow into manhood,
and, in contrast to the pale face and flabby flesh of the aristocratic child,
exhibit strength, vigour, and well-developed frames, and our belief in the
potency of the life-giving dements of air, light, and cleanliness receives a
shock that, at first sight, would appear fatal to the implied benefits of these,
in reality, all-sufficient attributes of health and life.

2449. But as wo must enter more largely on this subject hereafter, we shall
leave its consideration for the present, and return to what we were about to
say respecting trusting to others’ aid in the rearing of children. Here it is
that tho young and probably inexperienced mother may find our remarks not
only an assistance but a comfort to her, in as far as, knowing the simplest
and best system to adopt, sho may be able to instinct another, and see that
her directions are fully carried out.

2450. The human body, materially considered, is a beautiful piece of mechan-
ism, consisting of many parts, each one being the centre of a system, and per-
forming its own vital function irrespectively of the others, and yet dependent for
its vitality upon the harmony and health of the whole. It is, in fact, to a
certain extent, like a watch, which, when once wound up and sot in motion,
will continue its function of recording true time only so long as every wheel,
spring, and lever performs its allotted duty, and at its allotted time ; or till
the limit that man’s ingenuity has placed to its existence as a moving automaton
Las been reached, or, in other words, till it has run down.

2451. What the key is to the mechanical watch, air is to the physical man.
Once admit air into tho mouth and nostrils, and the lungs expand, tho heart
beats, the blood rushes to the remotest part of the body, tho mouth secretes
saliva, to soften and macerate the food ; the liver forms its bile, to separate
tho nutriment from the digested aliment ; the kidnoys perform their office ;
the eye elaborates its tears, to facilitate motion and impart that glistening to
the orb on which depends so much of its beauty ; and a dewy moisture exudes
from the skin, protecting tho body from the extremes of boat and cold, and

REARING, ETC., OF CHILDREN.

1027

sharpening the perception of touch and feeling. At the same instant, aud in
every part, the arteries, like innumerable bees, are everywhere laying down
layers of muscle, bones, teeth, and, in fact, like the coral zoophyte, building
up a continent of life and matter ; while the veins, equally busy, are carrying
away the debris and refuse collected from where the zoophyte arteries are
building, — this refuse, in its turn, being conveyed to the liver, there to be con-
verted into bile.

2452. All these — and they are but a few of the vital actions constantly taking
place — are the instant result of one gasp of life-giving air. No subject can be
fraught with greater interest than watching the first spark of life, as it courses
with electric speed " through all the gates and alleys ” of the soft, insensate
body of the infant. The effect of air on the new-born child is as remarkable
in its results as it is wonderful in its consequence ; but to understand this
more intelligibly, it must first be remembered that life consists of the per-
formance of three vital functions — Respiration, Circulation, and Digestion.
The lungs digest the air, taking from it its most nutritious element, the
oxygen, to give to the impoverished blood that circulates through them. The
stomach digests the food, and separates the nutriment — chyle — from the
aliment, which it gives to the blood for the development of the frame ; and
the blood, which is understood by the term circulation, digests in its passage
through the lungs the nutriment — chyle — to give it quantity and quality, and
the oxygen from the air to give it vitality. Hence it wall be seen, that, speak-
inggenerally, the three vital functions resolve themselves into one, — Digestion ;
aud that the lungs are the primary and the most important of the .vital
organs ; and respiration, the first in fact, as we all know it is the last in deed,
of all the functions performed by the living body.

The Lungs.— Respiration.

2453. The first effect of air on the infant is a slight tremor about the lips
and angles of the mouth, increasing to twitchings, and finally to a convulsive
contraction of the lips and cheeks, the consequence of sudden cold to the
nerves of the face. This spasmodic action produces a gasp, causing the air to
rush through the mouth and nostrils, and enter the windpipe and upper
portion of the flat and contracted lungs, which, like a sponge partly immersed
in water, immediately expand. This is succeeded by a few faint sobs or pants,
by which larger volumes of air are drawn into the chest, till, after a few
seconds, and when a greater bulk of the lungs has become inflated, the
breast-bone and ribs rise, the chest expands, and, with a sudden start, the
infant gives utterance to a succession of loud, sharp cries, which have the
effect of filling every cell of the entire organ with air and life. To the anxious
mother, tho first voice of her child is, doubtless, the sweetest music she ever
heard ; and the more loudly it peals, the greater should be her joy, as it is
an indication of health and strength, and not only shows tho perfect expansion
of the lungs, but that the process of life has set in with vigour. Having

3 u 2

1023

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

welcomed in its own existence, liko the morning bird, with a shrill note of
gladness, the infant ceases its cry, and, aftor a few short sobs, usually subsides
into sleep or quietude.

2454. At the same instant that the air rushes into the lungs, the valve, or *
door between the two sides of the heai-t — and through which the blood had
previously passed — is closed and hermetically sealed, and the blood taking a
new course, bounds into the lungs, now expanded with air, and which we have
likened to a wetted sponge, to which they boar a not unapt affinity, air being
substituted for water. It here receives the oxygen from the atmosphere, and
tho chyle, or white blood, from the digested food, and becomes, in an instant,
arterial blood, a vital principle, from which every solid and fluid of the body
is constructed. Besides the lungs, Nature has provided another respiratory
organ, a sort of supplemental lung, that, as well as being a . covering to tho
body, inspires air and aspires moisture ; — this is tho cuticle, or skin ; and so
intimate is the connection between the skin and lungs, that whatever injures
the first, is certain to affect the latter.

2455. Hence the difficulty of breathing experienced after tealds or burns on
the cuticle, the cough that follows the absorption of cold or damp by the shin,
the oppressed and laborious breathing experienced by children in all eruptive
diseases, while the rash is coming to the surface, and the hot, dry shin that always
attends congestion of the lungs, and fever.

2456. The great practical advantage derivable from this fact is, the know-
ledge that whatever relieves the one benefits the other. Hence, too, the great
utility of hot baths in all affections of tho lungs or diseases of the skin ; and
the reason why exposure to cold or wet is, in nearly all cases, followed by
tightness of the chest, sore throat, difficulty of breathing, and cough. These
symptoms are the consequence of a larger quantity of blood than is natural
remaining in the lungs, and the cough is a mere effort of Nature to throw off
the obstruction caused by the presence of too much blood in the organ of
respiration. The hot bath, by causing a larger amount of blood to rush
suddenly to the skin, has the effect of relieving the lungs of their excess of
blood, and by equalizing the circulation, aud promoting perspiration from the
cuticle, affords immediate and direct benefit, both to the lungs and the system
at large.

The Stomach.— Digestion.

2457. The organs that either directly or indirectly contribute to the process
of digestion are, the mouth, teeth, tongue, and gullet, the stomach, small in-
testines, the pancreas, the salivary glands, and the liver. Next to respiration,
digestion is the chief function in the economy of life, as, without the nutri-
tious fluid digested from the aliment, there would bo nothing to supply the
immense and constantly recurring waste of tho systom, caused by the activity
with which the arteries at all periods, but especially during infancy and youth,
are building up tho frame and developing tho body. In infancy (the period of

REARING, ETC., OF CHILDREN.

1029

wluch our present subject treats), the series of parts engaged in tho process of
digestion may bo reduced simply to tho stomach and liver, or rather its
secretion, — the bile. Tho stomach is a thick muscular bag, connected above
with tho gullet, and, at its lower extremity, with the commencement of the
small intestines. The duty or function of the stomach is to secrete from the
arteries spread over its inner surface, a sharp acid liquid called the gastric
juice ; this, with a due mixture of saliva, softens, dissolves, and gradually
digests the food or contents of the stomach, reducing the whole into a soft
pulpy mass, which then passes into the first part of the small intestines, where
it comes in contact with the bile from the gall-bladder, which immediately
separates the digested food into two parts ; one is a white creamy fluid called
chyle, and the absolute concentration of all nourishment, which is taken up by
proper vessels, and, as we have before said, carried directly to the heart, to
be made blood of, and vitalized in the luDgs, and thus provide for the wear
and tear of the system. It must be here observed that the stomach can only
digest solids, for fluids, being incapable of that process, can only bo absorbed ;
and without the result of digestion, animal, at least human life, could not
exist. Now, as Nature has ordained that infantine life shall be supported on
liquid aliment, and as, without a digestion the body would perish, some pro-
vision was necessary to meet this difficulty, and that provision was found in
the nature of the liquid itself, or in other words, THE MILK. The process of
making cheese, or fresh curds and whey, is familiar to most persons ; but as it
is necessary to the elucidation of our subject, we will briefly repeat it. The
internal membrane, or the lining coat of a calf’s stomach, having been removed
from the organ, is hung up, like a bladder, to dry ; when required, a piece is
cut off, put in a jug, a little warm water poured upon it, and after a few hours
it is fit for use ; the liquid so made being called rennet. A little of this rennet,
poured into a basin of warm milk, at once coagulates the greater part, and
separates from it a quantity of thin liquor, called whey. This is precisely the
action that takes place in the infant’s stomach after every supply from the
breast. The cause is the same in both cases, the acid of the gastric juice in
the infant’s stomach immediately converting the milk into a soft cheese. It is
gastric juice, adhering to the calf’s stomach, and drawn out by the water,
forming rennet, that makes the curds in the basin. The cheesy substance
being a solid, at once undergoes the process of digestion, is separated into
chyle by the bile, and, in a few hours, finds its way to the infant’s heart, to
become blood, and commence the architecture of its little frame. This is the
simple process of a baby’s digestion : — milk converted into cheese, cheese into
chyle, chyle into blood, and blood into flesh, bone, and tegument — how simple
is the cause, but how sublime and wonderful are the effects !

2458- Wo have described tho most important of the three functions that
take place in tho infant’s body— respiration and digestion ; the third, namely,
circulation, we hardly think it necessary to enter on, not being called for by
the requirements of the nurse and mother ; so we shall omit its notice, and
proceed from theoretical to more practical considerations. Children of weakly

1030

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

constitutions arc just as likoly to be bom of robust paronts, and those who
earn their bread by toil, as tho offspring of luxury and affluence ; and, indeed,
it is against the ordinary providonco of Nature to suppose the children of the
hardworking and necessitous to be hardier and more vigorous than those of
parents blessed with ease and competence.

2459. AH children come into the world in the same imploring helplessness,
with the same general organization and wants, and demanding either from
the nowly-nwakeued mother’s lovo, or from the memory of motherly feeling in
tho nurso, or the common appeals of humanity in those who undertake the
earliest duties of an infant, the same assistance and protection, and the same
fostering caro.

THE INFANT.

2460. We have already described tho phenomena produced on tho new-born
child by the contact of air, which, after a succession of muscular twitcliings,
becomes endowed with voice, and heralds its advent by a loud but brief suc-
cession of cries. But though this is tho general rule, it sometimes happens
(from causes it is unnecessary here to explain) that the infant does not cry,
or give utterance to any audible sounds, or if it does, they are so faint as
scarcely to bo distinguished as human accents, plainly indicating that life, as
yet, to the new visitor, is neither a boon nor a blessing ; the infant being, in
fact, in a state of suspended or imperfect vitality, — a state of quasi existence,
closely approximating the condition of a stiU-birth.

2461. As soou as this state of things is discovered, the child should be
turned on its right side, and the whole length of the spine, from the head
downwards, rubbed with all tho fingers of the right hand, sharply and
quickly, without intermission, till the quick action has not only evoked heat,
but electricity in the part, and till the loud and sharp cries of the child have
thoroughly expanded the lungs, and satisfactorily established its life. Tho
operation will seldom require above a minuto to effect, and less frequently
demands a repetition. If thero is brandy at hand, the fingers before rubbing
may bo dipped into that, or any other spirit.

2462. There is another condition of what wo may call "muto births,” where
the child only makes short ineffectual gasps, and those at intervals of a minuto
or two apart, when tho lips, eyelids, and fingers become of a deep purple or slate
colour, sometimes half the body remaining white, while tho other half, which
was at first swarthy, deepens to a livid hue. This condition of tho infant is
owing to tho valvo between tho two sides of tho heart remaining open, and
allowing tho unvitalized venous blood to enter the arteries and get into the
circulation.

REARING, ETC., OF CHILDREN.

1031

2463. The object in this case, as in the previous one, is to dilate the lungs
as quickly as possible, so that, by the sudden effect of a vigorous inspiration,
the valve may bo firmly closed, and the impure blood, losing this means of
ogress, be sent directly to the lungs. The same treatment is therefore
necessary as in the previous case, with the addition, if the friction along the
spine has failed, of a warm bath at a temperature of about 80°, in which the
child is to be plunged up to the neck, first cleansing the mouth and nostrils of
the mucus that might interfere with the free passage of air.

2464. While in the bath, the friction along the spine is to be continued, and
if the lungs still remain unexpanded, while one person retains the child in an
inclined position in the water, another should insert the pipe of a small pair of
bellows into one nostril, and while the mouth is closed and the other nostril
compressed on the pipe with the hand of the assistant, the lungs are to be
slowly inflated by steady puffs of air from the bellows, the hand being removed
from the mouth and nose after each inflation, and placed on the pit of the
stomach, and by a steady pressure expelling it out again by the mouth. This
process is to be continued, steadily inflating and expelling the air from the
lungs, till, with a sort of tremulous leap, Nature takes up the process, and
the infant begins to gasp, and finally to cry, at first low and faint, but with every
engulp of air increasing in length and strength of volume, when it is to be
removed from the water, and instantly wrapped (all but the face and mouth)
in a flannel. Sometimes, however, all these means will fail in effecting an
utterance from the child, which will lie, with livid lips and a flaccid body,
every few minutes opening its mouth with a short gasping pant, and then
subsiding into a state of pulseless inaction, lingering probably some hours,
till the spasmodic pantings growing further apart, it ceases to exist.

2465. The time that this state of negative vitality will linger in the frame
of an infant is remarkable ; and even when all the previous operations, though
long-continued, have proved ineffectual, the child will often rally from the
simplest of means — the application of dry heat. When removed from the
bath, place three or four hot bricks or tiles on the hearth, and lay the child,
loosely folded in a flannel, on its back along them, taking care that there is
but one fold of flannel between the spine and heated bricks or tiles. When
neither of these articles can be procured, put a few clear pieces of red cinder
in a warming-pan, and extend the child in the same manner along the closed
lid. As the heat gradually diffuses itself over the spinal marz-ow, the child
that was dying, or seemingly dead, will frequently give a sudden and energetic
cry, succeeded in another minute by a long and vigorous peal, making up, in
volume and force, for the provious dolay, and instantly confirming its existence
by every effort in its nature.

2466. With these two exceptions, — restored by tho means wo have pointed
out to the functions of life,— we will proceed to the consideration of the child
healthily BORN. Here the first thing that meets us on the threshold 01

1032

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

inquiry, and what is often botweon mother and nurso not only a vexed ques-
tion, hut ono of vexatious import, is the crying of the child ; the mother, in
her natural anxiety, maintaining that her infant must he ill to cause it to cry
so much or so often, and the nurso insisting that all children cry, and that
nothing is the matter with it, and that crying does good, and is, indeed, an
especial benefit to infancy. The anxious and unfamiliar mother, though not
convinced by these abstract sayings of the truth or wisdom of the explanation,
takes both for granted ; and, giving the nurse credit for moro knowledge and
experience on this head than she can have, contentedly resigns herself to the
infliction, as a thing necessary to be endured for tho good of the baby, but
thinking it, at the same time, an extraordinary instance of tho imperfectibility
of Nature as regards the human infant ; for her mind wanders to what she has
observed in her childhood with puppies and kittens, who, except when rudely
tom from their nurse, seldom give utterance to any complaining.

2467. We, undoubtedly, believe that crying, to a certain ex tent, is not only
conducive to health, but positively necessary to the full development and
physical economy of the infant’s being. But though holding this opinion, we
are far from believing that a child does not very often cry from pain, thirst,
want of food, and attention to its personal comfort ; but there is as much
difference in the tone and expression of a child’s cry as in the notes of an
adult’s voice ; and the mother’s ear will not be long in discriminating between
the sharp peevish whine of irritation and fever, and the louder intermitting
cry that characterizes the want of warmth and sleep. All these shades of
expression in the child’s inarticulate voice every nurse should understand, and
every mother will soon teach herself to interpret them with an accuracy equal
to language.

2468. There is no part of a woman’s duty to her child that a young mother
should so soon make it her business to study, as the voice of her infant, and
the language conveyed in its cry. The study is neither hard nor difficult ; a
close attention to its tone, and the expression of the baby's features, are the
two most important points demanding attention. The key to both the mother
will find in her own heart, and the knowledge of her success in the comfort
and smile of her infant. We have two reasons — both strong ones — for urging
on mothers the imperative necessity of early making themselves acquainted
with the nature and wants of their child : the first, that when left to the entire
responsibility of the baby, after the departure of the nurso, she may be ablo
to undertake her new dutios with moro confidence than if left to her own
resources and mother’s instinct, without a clue to guide her through tho
mysteries of those calls that vibrate through every nerve of her nature ; aud,
secondly, that she may bo able to guard her child from tho nefarious prac-
tices of unprincipled nurses, who, while calming tho mother’s mind with false
statements as to tho character of the baby’s cries, rather than lose their rest,
or devote that time which would romovo tho causo of suffering, administer,
behind the curtains, thoso deadly narcotics which, whilo stupefying Nature into

REARING, ETC., OP CHILDREN.

1033

sleep, insure for herself a night of many unbroken hours. Such nurses as
havo not the hardihood to dose their infant charges, are often full of other
schemes to still that constant and reproachful cry. The most frequent means
employed for this purpose is giving it something to suck,— something easily
hid from the mother,— or, when that is impossible, under the plea of keeping
it warm, tho nurse covers it in her lap with a shawl, and, under this blind,
surreptitiously inserts a finger between the parched lips, which possibly moan
for drink ; and, under this inhuman cheat and delusion, the infant is pacified,
till Nature, balked of its desires, drops into a troubled sleep. These are two
of our reasons for impressing upon mothers the early, the immediate necessity
of putting themselves sympathetically in communication with their child, by
at once learning its hidden language as a delightful task,

2469. We must strenuously warn all mothers on no account to allow tho
nurse to sleep with the baby, never herself to lay down with it by her side
for a night’s rest, never to let it sleep in the parents’ bed, and on no account
keep it, longer than absolutely necessary, confined in an atmosphere loaded
with the breath of many adults.

2470. The amount of oxygen required by an infant is so large, and the
quantity consumed by mid-life and age, and the proportion of carbonic acid
thrown off from both, so considerable, that an infant breathing the same air
cannot possibly carry on its healthy existence while deriving its vitality from
so corrupted a medium. This objection, always in force, is still more objec-
tionable at night-time, when doors and windows are closed, and amounts to a
condition of poison, when placed between two adults in sleep, and shut in by
bed-curtains ; and when, in addition to the impurities expired from the lungs,
we remember, in quiescence and sleep, how large a portion of mephitic gas is
given off from the skin.

2471. Mothers, in the fulness of their affection, believe there is no harbour,
sleeping or awake, where their infants can be so secure from all possible or
probable danger as in then- own arms ; yet we should astound our readers it
we told them the statistical number of infants who, in despite of their
motherly solicitude and love, are annually killed, unwittingly, by such
parents themselves, and this from tho persistency in the practice we are so
strenuously condemning. The mother frequently, on awaking, discovers the
baby’s face closely impacted between her bosom and her arm, and its body
rigid and lifeless; or else so enveloped in the “head-blanket” and superin-
cumbent bedclothes, as to render breathing a matter of physical impossibility.
In such cases the jury in general returns a verdict of “ Accidentally overlaid
but ono of “ Careless suffocation ” would be more in accordance with truth and
justice. Tho only possible excuse that can be urged, either by nurse or
mother, for this culpable practice, is the plea of imparting warmth to tho
infant. But this can always be effected by an extra blanket in the child’s
crib, or, if tho weather is particularly cold, by a bottle of hot water enveloped

1034

nOUSEHOO) MANAGEMENT.

in flannel and placed at tho child’s feet ; while all the objections already
urged— as derivable from animal heat imparted by actual contact— are entirely
obviated. Thore is another ovil attending tho sleeping together of tho mother
and infant, which, as far as regards tho latter, we consider quito as formidable,
though not so immediate as tho othors, and is always followed by more or less
of mischief to the mother. Tho evil wo now allude to is that most injurious
practice of letting the child suck after the mother has fallen asleep, a custom
that naturally results from tho former, and which, as wo have already said, i3
injurious to both mothor and child. It is injurious to the infantby allowing it,
without control, to imbibe to distension a fluid sluggishly secreted and deficient
in those vital principles which the want of mental energy, and of the sympa-
thetic appeals of tho child on tho mother, so powerfully produce on the secreted
nutriment, while tho mother wakes in a stato of clammy exhaustion, with
giddiness, dimness of sight, nausea, loss of appetito, and a dull aching pain
through the back and between the shoulders. In fact, she wakes lauguid and
unrefreshed from her sleep, with febrile symptoms and hectic flushes, caused
by her baby vampire, who, while dragging from her her health and strength,
has excited in itself a set of symptoms directly opposite, but fraught with tho
same injurious consequences—" functional derangement.”

THE MILK.

■2472. As Nature has placed in the bosom of the mother the natural food of
her offspring, it must be solf-evident to every reflecting woman, that it
becomes her duty to study, as far as lies in her power, to keep that reservoir of
nourishment in as pure and invigorating a condition as possible ; for she must
remember that the quantity is no proof of the quality 01 this aliment.

2473. The mother, while suckling, as a general rule, should avoid all
sedentary occupations, take regular exercise, keep her mind as lively and
pleasingly occupied as possiblo, especially by music and singing. Her diet
should be light and nutritious, with a proper sufficiency of animal food, and of
that kind which yields the largest amount of nourishment ; and, unless tho
digestion is naturally strong, vegetables and fruit should form a very small
proportion of tho general dietary, and such preparations as broths, gruels,
arrowroot, & c., still less. Tapioca, or ground-rice pudding, made with several
eggs, may be taken freely ; but all slops and thin potations, such as that
delusion called chickon-broth, should be avoided, as yielding a very small
amount of nutriment, and a largo proportion of flatulence. All purely stimu-
lants should be avoided as much as possible, especially spirits, unless taken for
some special object, and that modicinally ; but as a part of tho dietary they
should bo carefully shunned. Lactation is always an exhausting process, aud
as the child increases in size and strength, tho drain upon tho mother becomes
great aud depressing. Then something moro oven than an abundant diet is

REARING, ETC., OF CHILDREN.

1030

required to keep the mind and body up to a standard sufficiently healthy to
admit of a constant and nutritious secretion being performed without detri-
ment to tlio physical integrity of the mother, or injury to tho child who im-
bibes it ; and as stimulants are inadmissible, if not positively injurious, the
substitute required is to be found in malt liquor. To tho lady accustomed to
her Madeira and sherry, this may appear a very vulgar potation for a delicate
young mother to take instead of the more subtle and condensed elegance of
wine ; but as we are writing from experience, and with tho avowed object of
imparting useful facts and beneficial remedies to jour readers, we allow no
social distinctions to interfere with our legitimate object.

2474. We have already said that the suckling mother should avoid stimu-
lants, especially spirituous ones ; and though something of this sort is ab-
solutely necessary to support her strength during the exhausting process, it
should be rather of a tonic than of a stimulating character ; and as all wines
contain a largo percentage of brandy, they are on that account less bene-
ficial than the pure juice of the fermented grape might bo. But there is
another consideration to be taken into aocouut on this subject ; the mother
has not only to think of horself, but also of her infant. Now wines, especially
port wine, very often — indeed, most frequently — affect the baby’s bowels, and
what might have been grateful to the mother becomes thus a source of pain
and irritation to the child afterwards. Sherry is less open to this objection
than other wines, yet still it very frequently does influence the second parti-
cipator, or the child whose mother has taken it.

2475. The nine or twelve months a woman usually suckles must be, to
some extent, to most mothers, a period of privation and penance, and unless
she is deaf to the cries of her baby, and insensible to its kicks and plunges,
and will not see in such muscular evidences the griping pains that rack
her child, she will avoid every article that can remotely affect the little
being who draws its sustenance from her. She will sco that the babe is
acutely affected by all that in any way influences her, and willingly curtail
her own enjoyments, rather than see her infant rendered feverish, irritable,
and uncomfortable. As the best tonic, then, and tho most efficacious indirect
stimulant that a mother can tako at such times, there is no potation equal to
‘porter and stout, or, what is better still, an equal part of porter and stout.
Ale, except for a few constitutions, is too subtle and too sweet, generally
causing acidity or heartburn, and stout nlono is too potent to admit of a full
draught, from its prononess to affect the head ; and quantity, as well as
moderate strength, is required to make the draught effectual ; the equal
mixture, therefore, of stout and porter yields all tho properties desired or
desirable as a medicinal agent for this purpose.

2476. Independently of its invigorating influence on the constitution,
porter exerts a marked and specific effect on the secretion of milk, more powerful
in exciting an abundant supply of that fluid than any other article within the

io:jo

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

range of the physician's art ; aiul, in cases of deficient quantity, is the most
certain, speedy, and the healthiest means that can bo employed to insure a
quick and abundant flow. In cases where malt liquor produces flatulency, a
few grains of the “carbonate of soda” may advantageously bo added to each
glass immediately before drinking, which will havo the effect of neutralizing
any acidity that may be in the porter at the time, and will also prevent its
after-disagreement with the stomach. Tho quantity to bo taken must depend
upon the natural strength of tho mother, tho age and demand made by tho
infant on tho parent, and other causes ; but the amount should vary from
one to two pints a day, never taking less than half a pint at a time, which
should be repeated three or four times a day.

2477. We have said that the period of suckling is a season of penance to
the mother, but this is not invariably the case ; and, as so much must depend
upon the natural strength of the stomach, and its power of assimilating all
kinds of food into healthy chyle, it is impossible to define exceptions. Where
a woman feels she can eat any kind of food, without inconvenience or detri-
ment, she should live during her suckling as she did before ; but, as a general
rule, we are bound to advise all mothers to abstain from such articles as
pickles, fruits, cucumbers, and all acid and slowly digestible foods, unless they
wish for restless nights and crying infants.

2478. As regards exercise and amusement, we would certainly neither
prohibit a mother’s dancing, going to a theatre,, nor even from attending an
assembly. The first, however, is the best indoor recreation she can take;, and
a young mother will do well to often amuse herself in the nursery with this
most excellent means of healthful circulation. The only precaution necessary
is to avoid letting the child suck the milk that has lain long in the breast, or
is heated by excessive action.

2479. Every mother who can, should be provided with a breast-pump, or
glass tube, to draw off the superabundance that has been accumulating in
her absence from the child, or the first gush excited by undue exertion : the
subsequent supply of milk will be secreted under the invigorating influence of
a previous healthy stimulus.

2480. As the first milk that is secreted contains a large amount of the saline
elements, and is thin and iunutritious, it is most admirably adapted for the
purpose Nature designod it to fulfil, — that of an aperient ; but which, un-
fortunately, it i3 soldom permitted, in our artificial mode of living, to
perform.

2481. So opposed are we to the objectionablo plan of physicking new-born
children, that, unless for positive illness, we would much rather adviso that
medicine should be administered through tho mother for the first eight or ton
weeks of its existence. This practice, which fow mothers will object to, is

HEARING, ETC., OF CHILDREN.

1037

easily effected by tlio parent, whou such a course is necessary for the child,
taking either a dose of castor-oil, half an ounce of tasteless salts (the phos-
phate of soda), ono or two teaspoonfuls of magnesia, a dose of lenitive
electuary, manna, or any mild and simple aperient, which, almost beforo it
can have taken effect on herself, will exhibit its action on her child.

C482. One of the most common errors that mothers fall into while suckling
their children, is that of fancying they are always hungry, and consequently
overfeeding them ; and with this, the great mistake of applying the child to
the breast on every occasion of its crying, without investigating the cause
of its complaint, and, under the belief that it wants food, putting the nipple
into its crying mouth, until the infant turns in revulsion and petulance from
what it should accept with eagerness and joy. At such times, a few teaspoon-
fuls of water, slightly chilled, will often instantly pacify a crying and restless
child, who has turned in loathing from the offered breast ; or, after imbibing
a few drops, and finding it not what nature craved, throws back its head in.
disgust, and cries more petulantly than before. In such a case as this, the
young mother, grieved at her baby’s rejection of the tempting present, and
distressed at its cries, and in terror of some injury, over and over ransacks its
clothes, believing some insecure pin can alone be the cause of such sharp com-
plaining, an accident that, from her own care in dressing, however, is seldom
or ever the case.

24S3. These abrupt cries of the child, if they do not proceed from thirst,
which a little water will relieve, not unfrequently occur from some unequal
pressure, a fold or twist in the “roller,” or some constriction round the tender
body. If this is suspected, the mother must not be content with merely
slackening the strings ; the child should be undressed, and the creases and
folds of the hot skin, especially those about the thighs and groins, examined,
to see that no powder has caked, and, becoming hard, irritated the parts.
The violet powder should be dusted freely over all, to cool the skin, and every-
thing put on fresh and smooth. If such precautions have not afforded relief,
and, in addition to the crying, the child plunges or draws up its legs, the
mother may bo assured some cause of irritation exists in the stomach or
bowels, — either acidity in the latter or distension from overfeeding in -the
former ; but, from whichever cause, the child should be “opened” before the
fire, and a heated napkin applied all over the abdomen, the infant being
occasionally elevated to a sitting position, and while gently jolted on the
knee, the back should be lightly patted with the hand.

•2484. Should the mother have any reason to apprehend that tho cause of
inconvenience proceeds from the bladder — a not unfrequent source of pain, —
the napkin is to bo dipped irihot water, squeezed out, and immediately applied
over the part, and repeated every eight or ten minutes, for soveral times in
succession, either till tho natural relief is afforded, or a cessation of pain allows
of its discontinuance. Tho pain that young infants often suffer, and the

1038

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

crying that results from it, is, as wo have already said, frequently caused by
the mother inconsiderately overfeeding her child, and is produced by the pain
of distonsion, and the mechanical pressure of a larger quantity of fluid in the
stomach than the gastric juico can convert into cheese and digest.

•2485. Some children are stronger in the enduring power of the stomach
than others, and get rid of the excess by vomiting, concluding every process
of suckling by an emission of milk and curd. Such children are called by-
nurses “thriving children 5” and generally they are so, simply because their
digestion is good, and they have the power of expelling with impunity' that
superabundance of aliment which in others is a source of distension, flatulence,
and pain.

2486. The length of time an infant should be suckled must depend much
on the health and strength of the child, and the health of the mother, and
the quantity and quality of her milk ; though, when all circumstances are
favourable, it should never be less than nine, nor exceed fifteen months ; but
perhaps the true time will be found in the medium between both. But of
this we may be sure, that Nature never ordained a child to live on suction
after having endowed it with teeth to bite and to grind ■ and nothing is more
out of place and unseemly than to hear a child, with a set of twenty teeth,
ask for “ the breast.”

2487. The practice of protracted wet-nursing is hurtful to the mother, by
keeping up an uncalled-for, and, after the proper time, an unhealthy' drain on
her system, while the child either derives no benefit from what it no longer
requires, or it produces a positive injury on its constitution. After the
period when Nature has ordained the child shall live by other means, the
secretion of milk becomes thin and deteriorated, showing in the flabby flesh
and puny features of the child both its loss of nutritious properties and the

want of more stimulating aliment.

2488. Though we have said that twelve months is about the medium time
a baby should be suckled, we by no means wish to imply that a child should
be fed exclusively on milk for its first year ; quite the reverse ; the infant can
hardly bo too soon made independent of the mother. Thus, should illness
assail her, her milk fail, or any domestic cause abruptly cut off the natural
supply, the child having been annealed to an artificial diet, its life might be
safely carried on without seeking for a wet-nurse, and without the slightest
danger to its system.

2489. The advantage to the mother of early accustoming the child to arti-
ficial food is as considerable to herself as beneficial to hor infant; tho demand
on her physical strength in the first instance will be less severe and exhausting,
the child will sleep longer on a less rapidly digestible aliment, and yield to
both more quiet nights, and the mother will be more at liberty to go out for

EEABING, ETC., OP CHILDREN.

1039

business or pleasure, another means of sustenance boing at hand till her
return. Besides these advantages, by a judicious blending of the two systems
of feeding, the infant will acquire greater constitutional strength, so that, if
attacked by sickness or disease, it will have a much greater chance of re-
sisting its virulence than if dependent alone on the mother, whose milk,
affected by fatiguo and the natural anxiety of the parent for her offspring, is
at such a time neither good in its properties nor likely to be beneficial to
the patient.

C450. All that we have forthor to say on suckling is an advice to mothers,
that if they wish to keep a sound and unchapped nipple, and possibly avoid
what is called a “broken breast,” never to put it up with a wet nipple, but
always to have a soft handkerchief in readiness, and the moment that
delicate part is drawn from the child’s mouth, to dry it carefully of the milk
and saliva that moisten it ; and, further, to make a practice of suckling from
each breast alternately.

Dress and Dressing, "Washing, &c.

2491. As respects the dress and dressing of a new-boni infant, or of a
child in arms, during any stage of its nursing, there are few women who
will require us to give them guidance or directions for their instruction ; and
though a few hints on the subject may not be out of place here, yet most
women intuitively “take to a baby,” and, with a small amount of experience,
are ablo to perform all the little offices necessary to its comfort and cleanliness
with ease and completeness. We shall, therefore, on this delicate subject hold
our peace ; and only, from afar, hint “at what we would,” leaving our sugges-
tions to be approved or rejected, according as they chime with the judgment
and the apprehension of our motherly readers.

2492. In these days of intelligence, there are few ladies who have not, in
all probability, seen the manner in which the Indian squaw, the aborigines of
Polynesia, and even the Lapp and Esquimaux, strap down their baby on a
board, and by means of a loop suspend it to the bough of a tree, hang it up
to the rafters of the hut, or on travel, dangle it on their backs, outside the
domestic implements, which, as the slave of her master, man, the wronged
but uncomplaining woman carries, in order that her lord may march in
unhampered freedom. Cruel and confining as this system of “backboard”
dressing' may seem to our modern notions of freedom and exercise, it is
positively less irksome, less confining, and infinitely less prejudicial to health,
than the mummying of children by our grandmothers a hundred, ay, fifty
years ago : for what with chin-stays, back-stays, body-stays, forehead-cloths,
rollers, bandages, &c., an infant had as many girths and strings, to keep head,
limbs, and body in one exact position, as a ship has halyards.

2493. Much of this— indeed wo may say all— has been abolished ; but still the

1010

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

child is far from being dressed loosely enough ; and we shall never be satisfied
till the abominable use of the pin is avoided in lolo in an infant’s dressing, and
a texture made for all tho under garments of a child of a cool and elastic
material.

2494. Tho manner in which an infant is encircled in a bandage called tho
“roller,” as if it had fractured ribs, compressing those organs — that, living on
suction, must be, for the health of the child, to a certain degree distended, to
obtain sufficient aliment from the fluid imbibed — is perfectly preposterous.
Our humanity, as well as our duty, calls upon us at once to abrogate and dis-
countenance by every means in our power. Instead of tho process of washing
and dressing being made, as with the adult, a refreshment and comfort, it is,
by the dawdling manner in which it is performed, the multiplicity of things
used, and the perpetual change of position of the infant to adjust its com-
plicated clothing, renderod an operation of positive irritation and annoyance.
We, therefore, entreat all mothers to regard this subject in its true light, and
study to the utmost, simplicity in dress, and dispatch in the proces s.

2495. Children do not so much cry from the washing as from the irritation
caused by the frequent change of position in which they are placed, the number
of times they are turned on their face, on their back, and on their side, by the
manipulations demanded by the multiplicity of articles to be fitted, tacked,
and carefully adjusted on their bodies. What mother ever found her girl of
six or seven stand quiet while she was curling her hair ? How many times
nightly has she not to reprove her for not standing still during the process !
It is the same with the unconscious infant, who cannot bear to be moved
about, and who has no sooner grown reconciled to one position than it is forced
reluctantly into another. It is true, in one instance the child has intelligence
to guide it, and in the other not ; but the motitory nerves, in both instances,
resent coercion, and a child cannot be too little handled.

2496. On this account alone, and, for the moment, setting health and
comfort out of the question, we beg mothers to simplify their baby’s dress as
much as possible ; and not only to put on as little as is absolutely necessary,
but to make that as simple in its contrivance and adjustment as it will admit
of ; to avoid belly-bands, rollers, girths, and everything that can impede or
confine the natural expansion of the digestive organs, on tho due performance
of whose functions the child lives, thrives, and develops its physical being.

BEARING BY HAND.

Articles necessary, and how to use them.— Preparation of Poods.—
Baths.— Advantages of Bearing by Hand.

2497. As we do not for a moment wish to be thought an advocato for an
artificial, in preference to tho natural courso of rearing childrou, wo beg our

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1011

readers to understand us perfectly on this head ; all we desire to prove is
the fact that a child can be brought up as well on a spoon dietary as the best
example to be found of those reared on the breast ; having more strength, in-
deed, from the more nutritious food on which it lives. It will be thus less liable
to infectious diseases, and more capable of resisting the virulence of any danger
that may attack it ; and without in any way depreciating the nutriment of its
natural food, we wish to impress on the mother’s mind that there are many
cases of infantine debility which might eventuate in rickets, curvature of the
spine, or mesenteric disease, where the addition to, or total substitution of,
an artificial and more stimulating aliment, would not only give tone and
strength to the constitution, but at the same time render the employment of
mechanical means totally unnecessary. And, finally, though we would never
— where the mother had the strength to suckle her child — supersede the breast,
we would insist on making it a rule to accustom the child as early as possible
to the use of an artificial diet, not only that it may acquire more vigour to
help it over the ills of childhood, but that, in the absence of the mother, it
might not miss the maternal sustenance ; and also for the parent’s sake, that,
should the milk, from any cause, become vitiated, or suddenly cease, the child
can be made over to the bottle and the spoon without the slightest appre-
hension of hurtful consequences.

2498. To those persons unacquainted with the system, or who may have
been erroneously informed on the matter, the rearing of a child by hand may
seem surrounded by innumerable difficulties, and a large amount of personal
trouble and anxiety to the nurse or mother who undertakes the duty. This,
however, is a fallacy in every respect, except as regards the fact of preparing
the food ; but even this extra amount of work, by adopting the course we
shall lay down, may be reduced to a very small sum of inconvenience ; and as
respects anxiety, the only thing calling for care is the display of judgment in
the preparation of the food. The articles required for the purpose of feeding
an infant are a night-lamp, with its pan and lid, to keep the food warm ; a
nursing-bottle, with a prepared teat ; and a small pap saucepan, for use by day.
Of the lamp we need hardly speak, most mothers being acquainted with its
operation : but to those to whom it is unknown we may observe, that the
flame from the floating rushlight heats the water in the reservoir above, in
which the covered pan that contains the food floats, keeping it at such a heat
that, when thinned by milk, it will be of a temperature suitable for immediate
use. Though many kinds of nursing-bottles have been lately invented, and
some mounted with India-rubber nipples, the common glass bottle, with the
calf’s teat, is equal in cleanliness and utility to any ; besides, the nipple put
into the child’s mouth is so white and natural in appearance, that no child
taken from the breast will refuse it. The black artificial ones of caoutchouc
or gutta-percha are unnatural. The prepared teats can be obtained at any
chemist’s, and as they are kept in spirits, thoy will require a little soaking
in warm water, and gentle washing, before being tied securely, by means of
fine twino, round the neck of the bottle, just sufficient being left projecting for

3 X

3012

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

tho child to grasp freoly in its lips ; for if left the full length, or over long,
it will bo drawn too far into tho mouth, and possibly mako tho infant heave.
When onco properly adjusted, the nipple need never bo removed till replaced
by a now one, which will hardly bo necessary oftener than onco a fortnight,
though with care one will last for several wooks. The nursing-bottle should
be thoroughly washed and cleaned every day, and always rinsed out before and
after using it, the warm water being squeezed through the nipple, to wash out
any particles of food that might lodge in the aperture, and becomo sour. The
teat can always bo kept white and soft by turning the end of the bottle, when
not in use, into a narrow jug containing water, taking caro to dry it first, and
then to warm it by drawing the food through before putting it into the
child’s mouth. •

Food, and its Preparation.

2499. The articles generally employed as food for infants consist of arrow-
root, bread, flour, baked flour, prepared groats, farinaceous food, biscuit-
powder, biscuits, tops-and-bottoms, and semolina, or manna croup, as it is
otherwise called, which, like tapioca, is the prepared pith of certain vegetable
substances. Of this list the least efficacious, though, perhaps, the most
believed in, is arrowroot, which only as a mere agent, for change, and then
only for a very short time, should ever be employed as a means of diet to
infancy or childhood. It is a thin, flatulent, and innutritious food, and in-
capable of supporting infantine life with energy. Bread, though the universal
regime with the labouring poor, where the infant’s stomach and digestive
powers are a reflex, in miniature, of the father’s, should never be given to an
infant under three months, and, even then, however finely beaten up and
smoothly made, is a very questionable diet. Flour, when well boiled, though
infinitely better than arrowroot, is still only a kind of fermentative paste, that
counteracts its own good by after-acidity and flatulence.

2500. Baked flour, when cooked into a pale brown mass, and finely powdered,
makes a far superior food to the others, and may be considered as a very
useful diet, especially for a change. Prepared groats may be classed with
arrowroot and raw flour, as being innutritious. The articles that now follow
in our list are all good, and such as we could, with conscience and safety,
trust to for the health and development of any child whatever.

2501. We may observe in this place, that an occasional change in the
character of the food is highly desirable, both as regards tho health and benefit
of the child ; and though the interruption should only last for a day, the
change will be advantageous.

2502. The packets sold as farinaceous food are unquestionably the best
aliment that can be given from tho first to a baby, and may be continued,
with the exception of an occasional change, without alteration of the mate- •
rial, till the child is able to take its regular meals of animal and vegetable

BEARING, ETC., OF CHILDREN.

1043

food. Some infants are so constituted as to require a frequent and total
change in their system of living, seeming to thrive for a certain time on any
food given to them, but if persevered in too long, declining in bulk and
appearance as rapidly as they had previously progressed. In such cases the
food should bo immediately changed, and when that which appeared to agree
best with the child is resumed, it should be altered in its quality, and per-
haps in its consistency.

2503. For the farinaceous food there are directions with each packet, con-
taining instructions for the making ; but, whatever the food employed is,
enough should be made at once to last the day 'and night ; at first, about a pint
basinful, but, as the child advances, a quart will hardly be too much. In all
cases, let the food boil a sufficient time, constantly stirring, and taking every
precaution that it does not get burnt, in which case it is on no account to be
used.

2504. The food should always be made with water, the whole sweetened at
once, and of such a consistency that, when poured out, and it has had time to
cool, it will cut with the firmness of a pudding or custard. One or two
spoonfuls are to be put into the pap saucepan and stood on the hob till the
heat has softened it, when enough milk is to be added, and carefully mixed
with the food, till the whole has the consistency of ordinary cream ; it is then
to be poured into the nursing-bottle, and the food having been drawn through
to warm the nipple, it is to be placed in the child's mouth. For the first
month or more, half a bottleful will be quite enough to give the infant at one
time ; but, as the child grows, it will be necessary not only to increase the
quantity given at each time, but also gradually to make its food more con-
sistent, and, after the third month, to add an egg to every pint basin of food
made. At night the mother puts the food into the covered pan of her lamp,
instead of the saucepan— that is, enough for one supply, and, having lighted
the rush, she will find, on the waking of her child, the food sufficiently hot to
bear the cooling addition of the milk. But, whethor night or day, the same
food should never be heated twice, and what the child leaves should be thrown
away.

2505. The biscuit powder is used in the same manner as the farinaceous
food, and both prepared much after the fashion of maiding starch. But when
tops-and-bottoms, or the whole biscuit, are employed, they require soaking in
cold water for some time previous to boiling. The biscuit or biscuits are then
to be slowly boiled in as much water as will, when thoroughly soft, allow of their
being beaten by a three-pronged fork into a fine, smooth, and even pulp, and
which, when poured into a basin and become cold, will cut out like a custard.
If two largo biscuits have been sotreatod, and the child is six or seven months
old, beat up two eggs, sufficient sugar to properly sweeten it, and about a pint
of skim milk. Pour this on tho beaten biscuit in the saucepan, stirring con-
stantly ; boil for about fivo minutes, pour into a basin, and use, when cold, in
the same manner as the other.

3x2

1044

nOOSEUOLD MANAGEMENT.

2506. This makes an admirable food, at once nutritious and strengthening.
When tops-an d-bottoms or rusks arc used, the quantity of the egg may bo
reduced, or altogether omitted.

2507. Semolina, or manna croup, being in little hard grains, like a fine
millet-seed, must be boiled for some time, and the milk, sugar, and egg added
to it on the firo, and boiled for a few minutes longer, and, when cold, used as
the other preparations.

250S. Many persons entertain a belief that cow’s milk is hurtful to infants,
and, consequently, refrain from giving it ; but this is a very great mistake, for
both sugar and milk should form a large portion of every meal an infant
takes.

TEETHING AND CONVULSIONS.

Fits, &c., the consequence of Dentition, and how to be treated.—
The number and order of the Teeth, and manner in which
they are cut.— First and Second Set.

2509. About three months after birth, the infant’s troubles may be said to
begin ; teeth commence forming in the gums, causing pain and irritation in
the mouth, and which, but for the saliva it causes to flow so abundantly,
would be attended with very serious consequences. At the same time the
mother frequently relaxes in the punctuality of the regimen imposed on her,
and, taking some unusual or different food, excites diarrhoea or irritation in
her child’s stomach, which not unfrequently results in a rash on the skin, or
slight febrile symptoms, which, if not subdued in their outset, superinduce
some more serious form of infantine disease. But, as a general rule, the teeth
are the primary cause of much of the child’s sufferings, in consequence of the
state of nervous and functional irritation into which the system is thrown by
their formation and progress out of the jaw and through the gums. We
propose beginning this branch of our subject with that most fertile source ol
an infant’s Suffering-

Teething.

2510. That this subject may be better understood by the nurse and mother,
and the reason of the constitutional disturbance that, to a greater or less degree,
is experienced by all infants, may bo made intelligible to those who have the
care of children, we shall commence by giving a brief account of the formation
of the teeth, the age at which they appear in the mouth, and the order in
which they pierce tho gums. The organs of mastication in the adult consist
of 32 distinct teeth, 16 in cither jaw ; being, in fact, a double set The teeth
are divided into 4 incisors, 2 canine, 4 first and second grinders, and 6 molars ;
but in childhood the complementer first set consists of only twenty, and these
only mako thoir appearanco as tho development of tho framo indicates the

BEARING, ETC., OF CI1II.DREN.

1C45

requirement of a different kind of food for the support of the system. At birth
some of the first-cut teeth are found in the cavities of the jaw, in a very small and
rudimentary form ; but this is by no means universal. About the third month,
the jaws, which are hollow and divided into separate cells, begin to expand,
making room for the slowly developing teeth, which, arranged for beauty and
economy of spaco lengthwise, gradually turn their tops upwards, piercing the
gum by their edges, which, being sharp, assist in cutting a passage through
the soft parts. There is no particular period at which children cut their teeth,
some being remarkably early, and others equally late. The earliost age that
we have ever ourselves known as a reliable fact was, six weeks. Such peculiari-
ties are generally hereditary, and, as in this case, common to a whole family.
The two extremes are probably represented by six and sixteen months. Pain
and drivelling are the usual, but by no means the general, indications of
teething.

2511. About the sixth month the gums become tense and swollen, presenting
a red, shiny appearance, while the salivary glands pour out an unusual quantity
of saliva. After a time, a white line or round spot is observed on the top of
one part of the gums, and the sharp edge of the tooth may be felt beneath if
the finger is gently pressed on the part. Through these white spots the teeth
burst their way in the following order ; —

2512. Two incisors in the lower jaw aro first cut, though, in general, some
weeks elapse between the appearance of tho first and the advent of the second.
The next teeth cut are the four incisors of the upper jaw. The next in ordei
are the remaining two incisors of the bottom, one on each side, then two top
and two bottom on each side, but not joining the incisors; and lastly, about
the eighteenth or twentieth month, the four eye teeth, filling up the space
left between the side teeth and the incisors ; thus completing the infant’s set
of sixteen. Sometimes at the same period, but more frequently some months
later, four more double teeth slowly make their appearance, one on each side
of each jaw, completing the entire series of the child’s first set of twenty teeth.
It is asserted that a child, while cutting its teeth, should either dribble exces-
sively, vomit after every meal, or be greatly relaxed. Though one or other, or
all of these at once, may attend a case of teething, it by no means follows that
any one of them should accompany this process of nature, though there can
be no doubt that where the pain consequent on the unyielding state of the
gums, and the firmness of the skin that covers the tooth, is severe, a copious
discharge of saliva acts beneficially in saving tho head, and also in guarding
the child from those dangerous attacks of fits to which many children in their
teething are liable.

2513. The Symptoms that generally indicate the cutting of teeth, in addition
to the inflamed and swollen state of the gums, and increased flow of saliva, are
the restless and peevish state of the child, the hands being thrust into the
mouth, and tho ovident pleasuro imparted by rubbing the finger or nail gently

10-16

HOUSEHOLD management.

along tlio gum ; tho lips arc often excoriate cl, and the functions of the stomach
or bowels are out of order. In severe cases, occurring in unhealthy or scro-
fulous children, thore are, from tlio first, considerable fever, disturbed sleep,
fretfulness, diarrhoea, rolling of the eyes, couvulsivo startings, laborious
breathing, coma, or unnatural sleep, ending, unloss the head is quickly re-
lieved, in death.

2514. The Treatment in all cases of painful teething is remarkably simple,
and consists in keeping the body cool by mild aperient medicines, allaying the
irritation in the gums by friction with a rough ivory ring or a stale crust of
bread, and when the head, lungs, or any organ is overloaded or unduly
excited, to use the hot bath, and by throwing the body into a perspiration,
equalize the circulation, and relieve the system from the danger of a fatal
termination.

2515. Besides these, there is another means, but that must be employed
by a medical man ; namely, scarifying the gums — an operation always safe, and
which, when judiciously performed, and at a critical opportunity, will often
snatch the child from the grasp of death.

2516. There are few subjects on which mothers have often formed such
strong and mistaken opinions as on that of lancing an infant’s gums, some
rather seeing their child go into fits — and by the unrelieved irritation en-
dangering inflammation of the brain, water on the head, rickets, and other
lingering affections — than permit the surgeon to afford instant relief by cutting
through the hard skin, which, like a bladder over the stopper of a bottle,
effectually confines the tooth to the socket, and prevents it piercing the soft,
spongy substance of the gum. This prejudice is a great error, as we shall pre-
sently show ; for, so far from hurting the child, there is nothing that will so
soon convert an infant’s tears into smiles as scarifying the gums in painful
teething ; that is, if effectually done, and the skin of the tooth be divided.

2517. Though teething is a natural function, and to an infant in perfect
health should be unproductive of pain, yet in general it is not only a fertile
cause of suffering, but often a source of alarm and danger ; the former, from
irritation in the stomach and bowels, deranging tho whole economy' of the
system, and the latter, from coma and fits, that may excite alarm in severe
cases ; and the danger, that eventuates in some instances, from organic disease
of tho head or spinal marrow.

2518. Wo shall say nothing in this place of "rickets,” or "water on the
head,” which are frequent results of dental irritation, but proceed to finish our
remarks on the treatment of teething. Though strongly advocating tho lancing 1
of the gums in teething, and when there are any sovere head-symptoms, yet it
should never bo needlessly done, or before being satisfied that tho tooth is fully
formed, and is out of tho socket, and under the gum. W hen assured on these

BEARING, ETC., OF CHILDREN.

1017

points, the gum should be cut lengthwise, and from the top of the gum down-
wards to the tooth, in an horizontal direction, thus , and for about half an

inch in length. The operation is then to be repeated in a transverse direction,
cutting across the gum, in the centre of the first incision, and forming a cross,
thus +. The object of this double incision is to insure a retraction of the cut
parts, and leave an open way for the tooth to start from — an advantage not to
be obtained when only one incision is made ; for unless the tooth immediately
follows the lancing, the opening reunites, and the operation has to be repeated.
That this operation is very little or not at all painful, is evidenced by the sud-
denness with which the infant falls asleep after the lancing, and awakes in
apparently perfect health, though immediately before the use of the gum-
lancet, the child may have been shrieking or in convulsions.

Convulsions, or Infantine Fits.

2519. From their birth till after teething, infants are more or less subject or
liable to sudden fits, which often, without any assignable cause, will attack the
child in a moment, and while in the mother’s arms ; and which, according to
their frequency, and the age and strength of the infant, are either slight or
dangerous.

2520. Whatever may have been the remote cause, the immediate one is some
irritation of the nervous system, causing convulsions, or an effusion to the
head, inducing coma. In the first instance, the infant cries out with a quick,
short scream, rolls up its eyes, arches its body backwards, its arms become
bent and fixed, and the fingers parted ; the lips and eyelids assume a dusky
leaden colour, while the face remains pale, and the eyes opc-n, glassy, or staring.
This condition may or may not be attended with muscular twitchings of the
mouth, and convulsive plunges of the arms. The fit generally lasts from one
to three minutes, when the child recovers with a sigh, and the relaxation of
the body. In the other case, the infant is attacked at once with total insensi-
bility and relaxation of the limbs, coldness of the body and suppressed breath-
ing; the eyes, when open, being dilated, and presenting a dim glistening
appearance ; the infant appearing, for the moment, to be dead.

2521. Treatment. — The first step in either case is, to immerse the child in
a hot bath up to the chin ; or if sufficient hot water cannot bo procured to
cover the body, make a hip-bath of what can be obtained ; and, while the
left hand supports the child in a sitting or recumbent position, with the right
scoop up tlio water, and run it over the chest of the patient. When sufficient
water can bo obtained, the spine should be briskly rubbed while in the bath ;
when this cannot bo done, lay the child on the knees, and with the fingers
dipped in brandy, rub the whole length of the spine vigorously for two or
three minutes, and whon restored to consciousness, give occasionally a tea-
spoonful of weak brandy and water or wdne and water.

2522. An hour after the bath, it may be necessary to give an aperiont

1018

nonsi’tior.D management.

powder, possibly also to ropont tlio doso for onco or twice every three hours ;
in which case tho following proscription is to bo employed. Take ot
Powdored scammony . . . 0 grains.

Grey powder 6 grains.

Antimonial powder .... 4 grains.

Lump sugar ..... 20 grains.

Mix thoroughly, and divide into three powders, which are to bo taken as ad-
vised for an infant one year old ; for younger or weakly infants, divide into
four powders, and give as the other. For thirst and febrile symptoms, give
drinks of barley-water, or cold water, and every throe hours put ten to fifteen
drops of spirits of sweet nitre in a dessert-spoonful of either beverage.

THRUSH, AND ITS TREATMENT.

2523. This is a disease to which infants are peculiarly subject, and in whom
alone it may be said to be a disease ; for when thrush shows itself in adult or
advanced life, it is not as a disease proper, but only as a symptom, or accessory,
of some other ailment, generally of a chronic character, and should no more
be classed as a separate affection than the petcchie, or dark-coloured spots that
appear in malignant measles, may be considered a distinct affection.

2524. Thrush is a disease of the follicles of the mucous membrane of the
alimentary canal, whereby there are formed small vesicles, or bladders, filled
with a thick mucous secretion, which, bursting, discharge their contents, and
form minute ulcers in the centre of each vessel. To make this formal but
unavoidable description intelligible, we must beg the reader's patience while
we briefly explain terms that may appear to many so unmeaning, and make
tho pathology of thrush fully familiar.

2525. The whole digestive canal, of which the stomach and bowels are only
a part, is covered, from the lips, eyes, and ears downwards, with a thin glairy
tissue, like tho skin that lines the inside of an egg, called tho mucous
membrane ; this membrane is dotted all over, in a state of health, by im-
perceptible points, called follicles, through which the saliva, or mucus
secreted by the membrane, is poured out.

2526. These follicles, or little glands, then, becoming enlarged, and filled
with a congealed fluid, constitute thrush in its first s^age ; and when tho
child’s lips and mouth appear a mass of small pearls, then, as these break and
discharge, the second stage, or that of ulceration, sets in.

2527. Symptoms. — Thrush is generally preceded by considerable irritation,
by tho child crying and fretting, showing more than ordinary redness of tho

HEAPING, ETC., OP CHILDREN.

1049

lips and nostrils, hot fetid breath, with relaxed bowels, and dark feculent
evacuations ; the water is scanty and high-coloured ; whilst considerable
difficulty in swallowing, and much thirst, are the other symptoms, which a
careful observation of the little patient makes manifest.

2528. The situation and character of thrush show at once that the cause is
sorno irritation of the mucous membrane, and can proceed only from the
nature and quality of the food. Before weaning, this must be looked for in
the mother, and the condition of the milk ; after that time, in the crude and
indigestible nature of the food given. In either case, this exciting cause of
the disease must be at once stopped. When it proceeds from the mother, it
is always best to begin by physicking the infant through the parent ; that is
to say, let the parent first take the medicine, which will sufficiently affect the
child through the milk : this plan has the double object of benefiting the
patient and, at the same time, correcting the state of the mother, and im-
proving the condition of her milk. In the other case, when the child is being-
fed by hand, then proceed by totally altering the style of aliment given,
and substituting farinaceous food, custards, blanc-mange, and ground-rice
puddings.

5529. As an aperient medicine for the mother, the best thing she can take
is a dessert-spoonful of carbonate of magnesia once or twice a day, in a cup
of cold water; and every second day, for two or three times, an aperient
pill.

2530. As the thrush extends all over the mouth, throat, stomach, and
bowels, the irritation to the child from such an extent of diseased surface is
proportionately great, and before attempting to act on such a tender surface
by opening medicine, the better plan is to soothe by an emollient mixture ;
and, for that purpose, let the following bo prepared. Take of

Castor oil ...... 2 drachms.

Sugar ....... 1 drachm.

Mucilage, or powdered gum Arabic . half a drachm.

Triturate till the oil is incorporated, then add slowly —

Mint-water One ounce and a half.

Laudanum Ten drops.

Half a teaspoonful three times a day, to an infant from one to two years old ;
a teaspoonful from two to three years old ; and a dessert-spoonful at any age
over that time. After two days’ use of the mixture, one of the following
powders should be given twice a day, accompanied with one dose daily of the.
mixture : —

Grey powder . . . 20 grains.

Powdered rhubarb 15 grains.

Scamraony 10 grains. Mix.

Divide into twelvo powders, for one year ; eight powders, from one to two ;

1050

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

and six powders, from two to six years old. After that ago, double the
strength, by giving tlio quantity of two powders at once.

2531. It is sometimes customary to apply borax and honey to the mouth for
thrush ; but it is always better to treat the disease constitutionally rather
than locally. Tho first steps, therefore, to bo adopted are, to remove or
correct the exciting cause— the mother’s milk or food ; allay irritation by a
warm bath and tho castor-oil mixture, followed by and conjoined with the
powders.

2532. To those, however, who wish to try the honey process, the best pre-
paration to use is tho following : — Rub down one ounce of honey with two
drachms of tincture of myrrh, and apply it to the lips and mouth every four
or six hours.

2533. It is a popular belief, and one most devoutly cherished by many
nurses and elderly persons, that everybody must, at some time of their life,
between birth and death, have an attack of thrush, and if not in infancy, or
prime of life, it will surely attack them on their death-bed, in a form more
malignant than if the patient had been affected with the malady earlier ; the
black thrush with which they are then reported to bo affected being, in ail
probability, the petechias, or purple spots that characterize the worst form, and
often the last stage, of typhoid fever.

2534. In general, very little medicine is needed in this disease of the thru -h
— an alterative powder, or a little magnesia, given once or twice, being all, with
the warm bath, that, in the great majority of cases, is needed to restore the
mucous membrane to health. As thrush is caused by an excess of heat,
or over-action in the lining membrane of the stomach and bowels, whatever
will counteract this state, by throwing tho heat on th» surface, must ma-
terially benefit, if not cure, the disease : and that means every mother has
at hand, in the form of a warm lalh. After the application of this, a little
magnesia to correct the acidity existing along the surface of the mucous
membrane, is often all that is needed to throw the system into such a state as
will effect its own cure. This favourable state is indicated by an excessive
flow of saliva, or what is called “ dribbling,” and by a considerable amount of
relaxation of tho bowels — a condition that must not be mistaken for diarrhoea,
and checked as if a disease, but rather, for the day or two it continues,
encouraged as a critical evaeuant.

2535. Should there be much debility in the convalescence, half a tea-
spoonful of stee wine, given twieo a day in a little barley-water, will bo found
sufficient for all the purposes of a tonic. This, with tho precaution of
changing the child’s food, or, when it lives on tho mother, of correcting tho
quality of the milk by changing her own diet, and, by means of an antacid
or aporiont, improving tho stato of tho secretion. Such is all tho treatment
that this disease in general requires.

READING, ETC., OF CHILDREN.

1051

5536. Tho class of diseases wo aro now approaching are tho most important,
ooth in their pathological features and in their consequences on the consti-
tution, of any group or individual disease that assails the human body ; and
though more frequently attacking the undeveloped frame of childhood, are yet
by no moans confined to that period. These aro called Eruptive Fevers, and
embrace chicken-pox, cow-pox, small-pox, scarlet fever, measles, milary fever,
and erysipelas, or St. Anthony’s fire.

25 37. Tho general character of all those is, that they are contagious, and, as
a general rule, attack a person only once in his lifetime ; that their chaiu of
diseased actions always begins with fever, and that, after an interval of from
one to form days, the fever is followed by an eruption of the skin.

CHICKEN-POX, OB GLASS-POX; AND COW-POX, OB
VACCINATION.

2538. Chicken-fox, or Glass-ton, may, in strict propriety, bo classed as
a mild variety of small-pox, presenting all the mitigated symptoms of that
formidable disease. -Among many physicians it is, indeed, classed as small-
pox, and not a separate disease ; but as this is not the place to discuss such
questions, and as we profess to give only facts, the result of our own practical
experience, wo shall treat this affection of glass-pox or chicken-pox, as we
ourselves have found it, as a distinct and separate disease.

2539. Chicken-pox is marked by all the febrile symptoms presented by small-
pox, with this difference, that, in tho caso of chicken-pox, each symptom is
particularly slight. . The heat of body is much less acute, and the principal
symptoms are difficulty of breathing, headache, coated tongue, and nausea,
which sometimes amounts to vomiting. After a term of general irritability,
heat, and restlessness, about the fourth day, or between the third and fourth,
an eruption makes its appearance over tho face, neck, and body, in its first
two stages closely resembling small-pox, with this especial difference, that
whereas tho pustules in small-pox have jlat and depressed centres— an infalliblo
characteristic of small-pox — tho pustules in chicken-pox remain globular, whilo
the fluid in thorn changes from a transparent white to a straw-coloured liquid,
which begins to exude and disappear about the eighth or ninth day, and, in
mild cases, by the twelfth desquamates, or peels off entirely.

2540. There can be no doubt that chicken-pox, like small-pox, is contagious,
and under certain states of tho atmosphere becomos endemic. Parents should,
therefore, avoid exposing young childron to tho danger of infection by talcing
them whero it is known to exist, as chicken-pox, in weakly constitutions, or in
very young children, may suporinduco small-pox, the one disease either running
concurrently with tho other, or discovering itself as tho other declines. This,

1052

household management.

of courso, is a condition that renders tho case vory hazardous, as the child has
to struggle against two diseases at once, or before it has recruited strength
from tho attack of tho first.

2541. Treatment. — In all ordinary cases of chicken-pox — and it is very
seldom it assumes any complexity — the whole treatment resolves itself into
the use of tho warm bath, and a courso of gentle aperients. The bath should
be used when the oppression of the lungs renders tho breathing difficult, or
tho heat and dryness of tho skin, with tho undeveloped rash beneath tho
surface, shows the necessity for its use.

2542. As the pustules in chicken-pox very rarely run to the state of suppura-
tion, as in the other disease, thero is no fear of 'pitting or disfigurement, except
in very severe forms, which, however, happen so seldom as not to merit appre-
hension. When tho eruption subsides, howevor, tho face may bo washed with
•elder-flower water, and tho routine followed which is prescribed in tho con-
valescent state of small-pox.

2543. Cow-pox, properly speaking, is an artificial disease, established in a
healthy body as a prophylactic, or preventive agent, against the more serious
attack of small-pox, and is merely that chain of slight febrile symptoms and
local irritation, consequent on the specific action of the lymph of the vaccina-
tion, in its action on the circulating system of the body. This is not the place
to speak of the benefits conferred on mankind by the discovery of vaccination,
not only as the preserver of the human features from a most loathsome dis-
figurement, but as a sanitary agent in the prolongation of life.

2544. F ortunately the State has now made it imperative on all paronts to have
their children vaccinated before, or by the end of, the twelfth week ; thus doing
away, as far as possible, with the danger to public health proceeding from tho
ignorance or prejudice of those parents whose want of information on the
subject makes them object to the employment of this specific preventive; for
though vaccination has been proved not to be always an infallible guard against
small-pox, the attack is always much lighter, should it occur, and is seldom,
if indeed ever, fatal after the precaution of vaccination. The best time to vac-
cinate a child is after the sixth and before tho twelfth week, if it is in perfect
health, but still earlier if small-pox is prevalent, and any danger exists of the
infant taking the disease. It is customary, and always advisable, to give tho
child a mild aperient powder one or two days before inserting the lymph in tho
arm ; and should measles, scarlet fever, or any other disease arise during tho
progress of the pustule, the child, when recovered, should be re-vaccinated,
and the lymph taken from its aim on no account used for vaccinating
purposes.

2545. Tho disease of cow-pox generally takos twenty days to complete its
course ; in other words, the maturity and declension of tho pustule takes that

REARING, ETC., OE CHILDREN.

1033

time to fulfil its several changes. Tho mode of vaccination is either to insert
the matter, or lymph, taken from a healthy child, under the cuticle in several
places on both anus, or, which is still better, to mako three slight sctatches,
or abrasions, with a lancet on one arm in this manner, and work into the
irritated parts the lymph, allowing the arm to dry thoroughly before putting
down the infant’s sleeve ; by this means absorption is insured, and the unne-
cessary pain of soveral pustules on both arms avoided. No apparent change is
observable by the eye for several days ; indeed, not till the fourth, in many
cases, is there any evidence of a vesicle ; about the fifth day, however, a pink
areola, or circle, is observed round one or all of the places, surrounding a small
pearly vesicle or bladder. This goes on deepening in hue till the seventh or
eighth day, when the vesicle is about an inch in diameter, with a depressed
centre ; on the ninth the edges are elevated, and the surrounding part hard and
inflamed. The disease is now at its height, and the pustule should be opened,
if not for the purpose of vaccinating other children, to allow the escape of the
lymph, and subdue the inflammatory action. After the twelfth day the centre
is covered by a brown scab, and the colour of the swelling becomes darker,
gradually declining in hardness and colour till the twentieth, when the scab
falls off, leaving a small pit, or cicatrix, to mark the seat of the disease, and’
for life prove a certificate of successful vaccination.

2546. In some children the inflammation and swelling of the arm is excessive)
and extremely painful, and the fever, about the ninth or tenth day, very high ;
the pustule, therefore, at that time, should sometimes be opened, the arm
fomented every two hours with a warm bread poultice, and an aperient powder
given to the infant.

MEASLES AND SCARLET FEVER, WITH THE
TREATMENT OF BOTH.

Measles.

2547. This much-dreaded disease, which forms the next subject in our series'
of infantine diseases, and which entails more evils on the health of childhood
than any other description of physical suffering to which that ago of life is
subject, may be considered more an affection of the venous circulation,
lending to general and local congestion, attended with a diseased condition of
the blood, than either as a fever or an inflammation ; and though generally
classed before or after scarlet fever, is, in its pathology and treatment, irre-
spective of its after-consequences, as distinct and opposite as one disease can
well be from another.

2548. As we have already observed, measles aro always characteiizod by the
running at the noso and eyes, and great oppression of breathing ; so, in tho
mode of treatment, two objects are to bo held especially in view j first, to

1051

HOUSEHOLD -MANAGEMENT.

unload the congested state of the lungs,— the cause of tho oppressed breathing ;
and, secondly, to act vigorously, both during tho disease and afterwards, on
tho bowels. At the same time it cannot bo too strongly borne in mind, that
though tho patient in measles should on no account be kopt unduly hot, more
caro than in most infantine complaints should be taken to guard the body
from cold, or any abrupt changes of temperature. With these special
observations, wo shall proceed to give a description of the disease, as recog-
nized by its usual —

2549. Symptoms, which commence with cold chills and flushes, lassitude,
heaviness, pain in the head, and drowsiness, cough, hoarseness, and extreme
difficulty of breathing, frequent sneezing, deduction or running at tho eyes
and nose, nausea, sometimes vomiting, thirst, a furred tongue ; the pulse
throughout is quick, and sometimes full and soft, at others hard and small,
with other indications of an indammatory nature.

2550. On the third day, small red points make their appearance, first on the
face and neck, gradually extending over tho upper and lower part of the body.
On the fifth day, the vivid red of the eruption changes into a brownish hue ;
and, in two or three days more, the rash entirely disappears, leaving a loose
powdery desquamation on the skin, which rubs off like dandriff. At this
stage of the disease a diarrhoea frequently comes on, which, being what is called
"critical,” should never be cheeked, unless seriously severe. Measles some-
times assume a typhoid or malignant character, in which form the symptoms
are all greatly exaggerated, and the case from the first becomes both doubtful
and dangerous. In this condition the eruption comes out sooner, and only in
patches ; and often, after showing for a few hours, suddenly recedes, pre-
senting, instead of the usual florid red, a dark purple or blackish hue ; a dark
brown fur forms on the gums and mouth, tne breathing becomes laborious,
delirium supervenes, and, if unrelieved, is followed by coma ; a fetid diarrhoea
takes place, and the patient sinks under the congested state of the lungs and
the oppressed functions of the brain.

2551. Tho unfavourable symptoms in measles are a high degree of fever, the
excessivo heat and dryness of the skin, hurried and short breathing, and a
particularly hard pulse. Tho sequels, or after-consequences, of measles are,
croup, bronchitis, mesenteric disease, abscesses behind the ear, ophthalmia,
and glandular swellings in other parts of tho body.

2552. Treatment. — In tho first place, the patient should be kept in a cool
room, the temperaturo of which must be regulated to suit tho child’s feelings
of comfort, and the diet adapted to the strictest principles of abstinence.
When the inflammatory symptoms are sovero, bleeding, in somo form, is often
necessary, though, when adopted, it must be in theyfrtf stage of tho disease ;
and, if the lungs aro the apprehended scat of tho inflammation, two or more
leeches, according to tho age and strength 01 tho patient, must be applied to

REARING, ETC., OP CHILDREN.

1055

the upper part of the chest, followed by a small blister ; or tho blister may be
substituted for the leechos, tho attendant bearing in mind, that the benefit
effected by the blister can always be considerably augmented by plunging the
feet into very hot water about a couple of hours after applying the blistor, and
kept in tho water for about two minutes. And let it further bo remembered,
that this immersion of tho feet in hot water may be adopted at any time or
stage of the disease ; and that, whenever the head or lungs are oppressed,
relief will always accrue from its sudden and brief employment. When the
symptoms commence with much shivering, and the skin early assumes a
hot, dry character, the appearance of the rash will be facilitated, and all
the other symptoms rendered milder, if the patient is put into a warm bath,
and kept in the water for about three minutes. Or, where that is not con-
venient, the following process, which will answer quite as well, can be substi-
tuted : — Stand the child, naked, in a tub, and, having first prepared several
jugs of sufficiently warm water, empty them, in quick succession, over the
patient's shoulders and body ; immediately wrap in a hot blanket, and put
the child to bed till it rouses from the sleep that always follows the effusion or
bath. This agent, by lowering the temperature of the skin, and opening the
pores, producing a natural perspiration, and unloading tho congested state of
the lungs, in most cases does away entirely with the necessity both for leeches
and a blister. Whether any of these external means have been employed or
not, the first internal remedies should commence with a series of aperient
powders and a saline mixture, as prescribed in the following formularies ; at
the same time, as a beverage to quench the thirst, let a quantity of barley-
water be made, slightly acidulated by the juice of an orange, and partially
sweetened by some sugar-candy; and of which, when properly made and cold,
let tho patient drink as often as thirst, or the dryness of the mouth, renders
necessary.

•2553- Aperient Powders. — Take of scammony and jalap, each 24 grains;
grey powder and powdered antimony, each 18 grains. Mix and divide into
12 powders, if for a child between two and four years of age ; into 8 powders,
if for a child between four and eight years of age ; and into 6 powders for
between eight and twelve years. One powder to be given, in a little jelly or
sugar-and-water, every three or four hours, according to the severity of the
symptoms.

2554- Saline Mixture. — Take of mint-water, 6 ounces ; powdered nitre,
20 grains ; antimonial wine, 3 drachms ; spirits of nitre, 2 drachms ; syrup of
saffron, 2 drachms. Mix. To children under three years, give a teaspoonful
every two hours ; from that age to six, a dessertspoonful at tho same times ; and
a tablespoonful every three or four hours to children between six and twelve.

2£55- The object of those aperient powders is to keep up a steady but gentle
action on the bowels ; but, whenever- it seems necessary to administer a
stronger doso, and effect a brisk action on the digestive organs, — a course

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

1050

particularly imperative towards tho close of tho disease,— two of these powders
given at onco, according to the age, will bo found to produce that effect ; that
is, two of tho twelve for a child under four years, and two of the eight, and
two of the six, according to the age of the patient.

2556. When tho difficulty of breathing becomes oppressive, as it generally
does towards night, a hot bran poultice, laid on the chest, will be always
found highly beneficial. The diet throughout must bo light, and consist of
farinaceous food, such as rice and sago puddings, bcof-tea and toast ; and not
till convalescence sets in should hard or animal food be given.

2557' When measles assume the malignant form, the advice just given must
be broken through ; food of a nutritious and stimulating character should be
at once substituted, and administered in conjunction with wine, and even
spirits, and the disease regarded and treated as a case of typhus. But, as this
form of measles is not frequent, and, if occurring, hardly likely to be treated
without assistance, it is unnecessary to enter on the minutiae of its practice
here. What we have prescribed, in almost all cases, will be found sufficient
to meet every emergency, without resorting to a multiplicity of agents.

2558. The great point to remember in measles is, not to give up the treat-
ment with the apparent subsidence of the disease, as the after-consequences of
measles are too often more serious, and to be more dreaded, than the measles
themselves. To guard against this danger, and thoroughly purify the system,
after the subsidence of all the symptoms of the disease, a corrective course of
medicine, and a regimen of exercise, should be adopted for some weeks after
the cure of the disease. To effect this, an active aperient powder should be
given every three or four days, with a daily dose of the subjoined tonic mix-
ture, with as much exercise, by walking, running after a hoop, or other bodily
exertion, as the strength of the child and the state of the atmosphere will
admit, the patient being, wherever possible, removed to a purer air as soon
as convalescence warrants the change.

2559. Tonic Mixture. — Take of infusion of rose-leaves, 6 ounces ; quinine,
8 grains ; diluted sulphuric acid, 15 drops. Mix. Dose, from half a tea-
spoonful up to a dessertspoonful, once a day, according to tho age of tho
patient.

Scarlatina, or Scarlet Fever.

2560. Though professional accuracy has divided this disease into sovcral
forms, we shall keep to the one disease most generally met with, the common
or simple scarlet fever, which, in all cases, is characterized by an excessive
heat on tho skin, sore throat, and a peculiar speckled appearance of tho
tongue.

2561. Symqitoms. — Cold chills, shivering, nausea, thirst, hot skin, quick
pulse, with difficulty of swallowing ; tho tongue is coated, presenting through

REARING, ETC., OF CHILDREN.

1057

its fur innumerable specks, the elevated papillEe of the tongue, which gives it
the speckled character, that, if not the invariable sign of scarlet fever, is only
mot with in cases closely analogous to that disease. Between the second and
third day, but most frequently on the third, a bright red efflorescence breaks
out in patches on the face, neck, and back, from which it extends over the
trunk and extremities, always showing thicker and deeper in colour wherever
there is any pressure, such as the elbows, back, and hips ; when the eruption
is well out, the skin presents the appearance of a boiled lobster-shell. At
first, the skin is smooth, but, as the disease advances, perceptible roughness
is apparent, from the elevation of the rash, or, more properly, the pores of the
skin. On the fifth and sixth days the eruption begins to decline, and by the
eighth has generally entirely disappeared. During the whole of this period,
there is, more or less, constant sore throat.

2562. The Treatment of scarlet fever is, in general, very simple. Where the
heat is great, and the eruption comes out with difficulty, or recedes as soon as
it appears, the body should be sponged with cold vinegar-and-water, or tepid
water, as in measles, poured over the chest and body, the patient being, as in
that disease, wrapped in a blanket and put to bed, and the same powders and
mixture ordered in measles administered, with the addition of a constant
hot bran poultice round the throat, which should be continued from the first
symptom till a day or two after the declension of the rash. The same low diet
and cooling drink, with the same general instructions, are to be obeyed in this
as in the former disease.

2563. When the fever runs high in the first stage, and there is much nausea,
before employing the effusions of water, give the patient an emetic, of equal
parts of ipecacuanha and antimonial wine, in doses of from a teaspoonful to a
tablespoonful, according to age. By these means, nine out of every ten cases
of scarlatina may be safely and expeditiously cured, especially if the tem-
perature of the patient’s room is kept at an even standard of about sixty
degrees.

HOOPING-COUGH, CROUP, AND DIARRHCEA, WITH
THEIR MODE OP TREATMENT.

Hooping-Cough.

2564. This is purely a spasmodic disease, and is only infectious through
the faculty of imitation, a habit that all children are remarkably apt to fall
into ; and even where adults have contracted hooping-cough, it has been from
the same cause, and is as readily accounted for, on the principle of imitation,
as that the gaping of one person will excite or predispose a whole party to
follow the same spasmodic example. If any one associates for a few days
with a person who stammers badly, he will find, when released from his

1058

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

company, that the sequence of his articulation and the fluency of his speech
are, for a time, gone ; and it will be a matter of constant vigilance, and some
difficulty, to overcomo the evil of so short an association. The manner in
which a number of school-girls will, one after another, fall into a fit on
beholding one of their number attacked with epilepsy, must be familiar to
many. These several facts lead us to a juster notion of how to treat this
spasmodic disease. Every effort should, therefore, be directed, mentally and
physically, to break the chain of nervous action, on which the continuance of
the cough depends.

0565. Symptoms. — Hooping-cough comes on with a slight oppression of breath-
ing, thirst, quick pulse, hoarseness, and a hard, dry cough. This state may
exist without any change from one to two or three weeks before the peculiar
feature of the disease — the hoop — sets in. As the characteristics of this cough
are known to all, it is unnecessary to enter here, physiologically, on the subject.
We shall, therefore, merely remark that the frequent vomiting and bleediDg
at the mouth or nose are favourable signs, and proceed to the

2566. Treatment, which should consist in keeping up a state of nausea and
vomiting. For this purpose, give the child doses of ipecacuanha and antimo-
nial wines, in equal parts, and quantities varying from half to one and a half
teaspoonful once a day, or, when the expectoration is hard and difficult of ex-
pulsion, giving the following cough mixture every four hours. Take of

; “Syrup of squills
Antimonial wine
Laudanum
Syrup of Toulou
Water . .

. I ounce.

. 1 ounce.

. 15 drops.

. 2 drachms.
. ounce.

Mix, The dose is from half a spoonful to a dessertspoonful. When the cough i
is urgent, the warm bath is to be used, and either one or two leeches applied I
over the breastbone, or else a small blister laid on the lower part of the throat.

2567. Such is the medical treatment of hooping-cough ; but there is a moral
regimen, based on the nature of the disease, which should never be omitted.
And, on the principle that a sudden start or diversion of the mind will arrest
a person in the act of sneezing or gaping, so the like means should be adopted
with the hooping-cough patient ; and, in the first stage, before the hooping
has been added, the parent should endeavour to break tho paroxysm of the
cough by abruptly attracting the patient’s attention, and thus, if possible,
preventing the cough from reaching that hoight when tho ingulp of air gives
the hoop or crow that marks the disease ; but when once that symptom has set
in, it becomes still more necessary to endeavour, by even measures of intimida-
tion, to break the spasmodic chain of the cough. Exerciso in tho open air, I
■when dry, is also requisite, and change of scene and air in all casos is of abso-
lute necessity, and may be adopted at any stage of the disease.

REARING, ETC., OP CHILDREN.

1059

Croup.

5568. This is by far the most formidable and fatal of all the diseases to which
infancy and childhood aro liable, and is purely an inflammatory affection,
attacking that portion of the mucous membrane lining the windpipo and bron-
chial tubes, and from the effect of which a false or loose membrane is formed
along the windpipe, resembling in appearance the finger of a glove suspended
in the passage, and, consequently, terminating the life of the patient by suffo-
cation ; for, as the lower end grows together and becomes closed, no air can
enter the lungs, and the child dies choked. All dull, fat, and heavy children
are peculiarly predisposed to this disease, and those with short necks and who
make a wheezing noise in their natural breathing. Croup is always sudden in
its attack, and rapid in its career, usually proving fatal within three days ;
most frequently commences in the night, and generally attacking children
between the ages of three and ten years. Mothers should, therefore, be on
their guard who have children predisposed to this disease, and immediately
resort to the means hereafter advised.

0569. Symptoms. — Languor and restlessness, hoarseness, wheezing, and
short, dry cough, with occasional rattling in the throat during sleep, the child
often plucking at its throat with its fingers ; difficulty of breathing, which
quickly becomes hard and laboured, causing great anxiety of the countenance,
and the veins of the neck to swell and become knotted ; the voice in speaking
acquires a sharp, crowing, or croupy sound, while the inspirations have a harsh,
metallic intonation. After a few hours, a quantity of thick, ropy mucus is
thrown out, hanging about the mouth, and causing suffocating fits of coughing
to expel.

0570. Treatment. — Place the child immediately in a hot bath up to the throat ;
and, on removal from the water, give an emetic of the antimonial or ipecacu-
anha wine, and, when the vomiting has subsided, lay a long blister down the
front of the throat, and administer one of the following powders every twenty
minutes to a child from three to six years of age.

0571. Take of calomel, 12 grains; tartar emetic, 2 grains; lump sugar,
30 grains. Mix accurately, and divide into 12 powders. For a child from
six to twelve years, divide into 6 powders, and give one every half-liour.

2572. Should the symptoms remain unabated after a few hours, apply one or
two leeches to the throat, and put mustard poultices to the foot and thighs,
retaining them about eight minutes ; and, in extreme cases, a mustard poultice
to the spine between tho shoulders, and at the same time rub mercurial oint-
ment into the armpits and the angles of the jaws.

2573- Such is a vigorous and reliable system of treatment in severe cases ot
croup ; but, in the milder and more general form, tho following abridgment

3 y 2

loco

norsEnoLD management.

will, in all probability, bo all that will bo required First, the hot bath ;
soeond, tho ometic ; third, a mustard plaster round the throat for five minutes •
fourth, tho powders ; fifth, another emetic in six hours, if needed, and the
powders continued without intermission while the urgency of the symptoms
continues. When reliof has been obtained, these are to be discontinued, and a
dose of senna tea given to act on the bowels.

Diarrhoea.

-574- The diarrhoea with which children aro so frequently affected, especially
in infancy, should demand the nurse’s immediate attention, and when the
secretion, from its clayoy colour, indicates an absence of bile, a powder com-
posed of 3 grains of grey powder and 1 grain of rhubarb, should bo given twice,
with an interval of four hours between each dose, to a child from one to two
years, and, a day or two afterwards, an aperient powder containing the same
ingredients and quantities, with the addition of 2 or 3 graius of scammony.
For the relaxation consequent on an overloaded stomach, or acidity in tho
bowels, a little magnesia dissolved in milk should be employed two or three
times a day.

2S75- When much griping and pain attend tho diarrhoea, half a teaspoonful
of Dalby’s Carminative (the best of all patent medicines) should bo given,
either with or without a small quantity of castor oil to carry off the exciting
causo.

2576. For any form of diarrhoea that, by excessive action, demands a speedy
correction, the most efficacious remedy that can be employed in all ages and
conditions of childhood is the tincture of Kino, of which from 10 to 30
drops, mixed with a little sugar and water in a spoon, are to be given every
two or three hours till the undue action has been checked. Often the change
of diet to rice, milk, eggs, or the substitution of animal for vegetable food, or
vice versd, will correct an unpleasant and almost chronic state of diarrhoea.

2577. A very excellent carminativo powder for flatulent infants may bo kept-
in the house, and employed with advantage, whenever the child is in pain or
griped, by dropping 5 grains of oil of aniseed and 2 of peppermint on hall
an ounce of lump sugar, and rubbing it in a mortar, with a drachm of mag-
nesia, into a fine powder. A small quantity of this may be given in a little
water at any time, and always with benefit.

THE D 0 C T 0 It.

CHAPTER Xr.lII.

-5/S- “ Time,” according to the old proverb, “ is 'money and it may
also, in many cases, and with equal truthfulness, be said to be life ; for- a few
moments, in great emergencies, often turn the balance between recovery and
death. This applies more especially to all kinds of poisoning, fits, submer-
sion in water, or exposure to noxious gases ; and many accidents. If people
knew how to act during the interval that must necessarily elapse from the
moment that a medical man is sent for until he arrives, many lives might bo
saved, which now, unhappily, are lost. Generally speaking, however, nothing
is done — all is confusion and fright ; and the surgeon, on his arrival, finds
that death has already seized its victim, who, had his friends but known a
few rough rules for their guidance, might have been rescued. We shall,
therefore, in a series of papers, give such information as to the means to be
employed in event of accidents, injuries, &c., as, by the aid of a gentleman of
large professional experience, we are warranted in recommending.

List of Drugs, &c., necessary to carry out all Instructions.

■2579. We append at once a List of Drugs, &c., and a few Prescriptions
necessary to carry out all the instructions given in this series of articles. It
will bo seen that they are few — they are not expensive ; and by laying in a
little stock of them, our instructions will be of instant value in all cases of
accident, &c. — The drugs are— Antimonial Wine. Antimonial Powder.
Blister Compound. Blue Pill. Calomel. Carbonate of Potash. Compound
Iron Pills. Compound Extract of Colocynth. Compound Tincture of Cam-
phor. Epsom Salts. Goulard’s Extract. Jalap in Powder. Linseed Oil.
Myrrh and Aloes Pills. Nitre. Oil of Turpentino. Opium, powdered, and
Laudanum. Sal Ammoniac. Senna Leaves. Soap Liniment, Opodeldoc.
Sweet Spirits of Nitro. Turner’s Cerate. — To which should be added : Com-
mon Adhesive Plaster. Isinglass Plaster. Lint. A pair of small Scales with
Weights. An ounce and a drachm Measure-glass. A Lancet. A Probe. A
pair of Forceps, and some curved Needles.

■2580. The following Prescriptions may bo made up for a few shillings ;
and, by keeping them properly labelled, and by referring to the remarks on

1062

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

the treatment of any particular case, much suffering, and, perhaps, some lives,
may bo saved.

2581. Draught. — Twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an ounce and a half
of water. This draught is to bo repeated in a quarter of an hour if vomiting
does not tako place.

25S2. Clyster. — Two tablespoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of warm
gruel.

2583. Liniments. — 1. Equal parts, of lime-water and linseed-oil well mixed
together-. [Lime-water is made thus : Pour 6 pints of boiling water upon

1 lb. of lime ; mix well together, and when cool, strain the liquid from off
the lime which has fallen to the bottom, taking care to get it as clear as
possible.] 2. Compound camphor linim'cnt.

2584. Lotions. — 1. Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard’s extract and 2
tablespoonfuls of vinegar in a pint of water. — 2. Mix A oz. of sal-ammoniac,

2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and the same quantity of gin or whisky, in
half a pint of water.

2585. Goulard Lotion. — 1 drachm of sugar of lead, 2 pints of rain-water,
2 teaspoonfuls of spirits of wine. For inflammation of the eyes or else-
where : — The better way of making Goulard Lotion, if for the eyes, is to add
to 6 oz. of distilled water, or water that has been well boiled, 1 drachm
of the extract of lead.

2586. Opodeldoc. — This lotion being a valuable application for sprains,
lumbago, weakness of joints, &c., and it being difficult to procure either pure
or freshly made, we give a recipe for its preparation. Dissolve 1 oz. of
camphor in a pint of rectified spirits of wine ; then dissolve 4 oz. of hard white
Spanish soap, scrapod thin, in 4 oz. of oil of rosemary, and mix them together.

2587. The Common Blach Draught. — Infusion of senna 10 drachms ; Epsom
salts 10 drachms; tincture of senna, compound tincture of cardamums,
compound spirit of lavender, of each 1 drachm. Families who make black
draught in quantity, and wish to preserve it for some time without spoiling,
should add about 2 drachms of spirits of hartshorn to each pint of the strained
mixture, the use of this drug being to prevent its becoming mouldy or decom-
posed. A simpler and equally efficacious form of black draught is made by
infusing \ oz. of Alexandrian senna, 3 oz. of Epsom salts, and 2 drachms of
bruised ginger and coriander-seeds, for several hours in a pint of boiling
water, straining the liquor, and adding either 2 drachms of sal-volatile or
spirits of hartshorn to the whole, and giving 3 tablespoonfuls for a dose to an
adult.

2588. Mixtures — 1. Aperient. — Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in half a
pint of senna tea : tako a quarter of tho mixture as a dose, and repeat it in
three or four hours if necessary.

THE DOCTOR.

1063

25S9. 2. Fever Mixture. — Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms of
carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimonial wine, and a tablespoonful of
sweet spirits of nitre, in half a pint of water.

2590. 3. Myn-h and Aloes Pills.— Ten grains made into two pills are the
dose for a full-grown person.

259 r. 4. Compound Iron Fills. — Dose for a full-grown person: 10 grains
made into two pills.

2592. Fills. — 1. Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of anti-
monial powder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills. Dose for a
full-grown person: two pills. — 2. Mix 5 grains of blue pill and the same
quantity of compound extract of colocynth together, and make into two pills,
the dose for a full-grown person.

2593. Powders. — Mix a grain of calomel and 4 grains of powdered jalap
together.

2394. In all cases, the dose of medicines given is to be regulated by the age
of the patient.

2595. Abernethy’s Plan for making a Bread- and- W ater Poultice. — First
scald out a basin ; then having put in some boiling water, throw in coarsely-
crumbled bread, and cover it with a plate. When the bread has soaked
up as much water as it will imbibe, drain off the remaining water, and
there will be left a light pulp. Spread it a third of an inch thick on folded
linen, and apply it when of the temperature of a warm bath. To preserve it
moist, occasionally drop warm water on it.

2596. Linseed-Meal Poultice. — “Scald your basin, by pouring a little hot
water into it ; then put a small quantity of finely-ground linseed-meal into
the basin, pour a little hot water on it, and stir it round briskly until you
have well incorporated them ; add a little more meal and a little more water ;
then stir it again. Do not let any lumps remain in the basin, but stir the
poultice well, and do not be sparing of your trouble. What you do next, is
to take as much of it out of the basin as you may require, lay it on a piece of
soft linen, and let it be about a quarter of an inch thick.’' — Abernethy.

2597. Mustard Poultice. — Mix equal parts of dry mustard and linseed-meal
in warm vinegar. When the poultice is wanted weak, warm water may be
used for the vinegar ; and when it is required very strong, mustard alone,
without any linseed-meal, is to be mixed with warm vinegar.

2598. An ordinary Blister. — Spread a little blister compound on a piece of
common adhesive plaster with the right thumb. It should be put on just
thickly enough to conceal the appearance of the plaster beneath. The part
from which a blister has been taken should be covered till it heals over with
soft linen rags smeared with lard.

1004

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

Baths and Fomentations.

5599. All fluid applications to tho body aro exhibited either in a hot or cold
form ; and tho object for which they are administered is to produce a stimu-
lating effect over tho entire, or a part, of the system ; for tho effect, though
differently obtained, and varying in degree, is the same in principle, whether
procured by hot or cold water.

2600. Heat. — There arc three forms in which heat is universally applied to

the body,— that of the tepid, warm, and vapour bath ; but as the first is too
inert to be worth notice, and the last dangerous and inapplicable, except in
public institutions, we shall confine our remarks to tho really efficacious and
always attainable one — the •

2601. Warm and Hot Bath. — These baths are used whenever there is con-
gestion, or accumulation of blood in the internal organs, causing pain, difficulty
of breathing, or stupor, and are employed, by their stimulating property, to
cause a rush of blood to the surface, and, by unloading the great organs, pro-
duce a temporary inflammation in the skin, and so equalize the circulation. The
effect of the hot bath is to increase the fulness of the pulse, accelerate respira-
tion, and excite perspiration. In all inflammations of the stomach and bowels,
the hot bath is of the utmost consequence ; the temperature of the warm bath
varies from 92° to 100°, and may be obtained by those who have no thermo-
meter to test the exact heat, by mixing one measure of boiling with two of
cold water.

2602. Fomentations are generally used to effect, in a part, the benefit pro-
duced on the whole body by the bath ; to which a sedative action is occasion-
ally given by the use of roots, herbs, or other ingredients ; the object being to
relieve the internal organ, as the throat, or muscles round a joint, by exciting
a greater flow of blood to the skin over the affected part. As the real agent
of relief is heat, the fomentation should always be as hot as it can comfortably
be borne, and, to insure effect, should be repeated every half-hour. Warm
fluids are applied in order to render the swelling which accompanies inflamma-
tion less painful, by the greater readiness with which the skin yields, than
when it is harsh and dry. They are of various kinds ; but the most simple,
and oftentimes the most useful, that can be employed, is “Warm Water.”
Another kind of fomentation is composed of dried poppyheads, 4 oz. Break
them to pieces, empty out the seeds, put them into 4 pints of water, boil
for a quarter of an hour, then strain through a cloth or sieve, and keep
the water for use. Or, chamomile flowers, hemlock, and many other plants,
may be boiled, and the part fomented with the hot liquor, by means of
flannels wetted with the decoction.

2603. Cold, when applied in excess to tho body, drives tho blood from tho
surface to tho centre, reduces the pulse, makes tho breathing hard and difficult,
produces coma, and, if long continued, death. But when medicinally used, it
excites a reaction on the surface equivalent to a stimulating effect j as in some

THE DOCTOK.

10G5

cases of fever, when the body has been sponged with cold water, it excites, by
reaction, increased circulation on the skin. Cold is sometimes used to keep up
a repellent action, as, when local inflammation takes place, a remedy is applied,
which, by its benumbing and astringent effect, causes the blood, or the excess
of it in the part, to recede, and, by contracting the vessels, prevents the return
of any undue quantity, till the affected part recovers its tone. Such remedies
are called Lotions, and should, when used, be applied with the same persistency
as the fomentation ; for, as the latter should be renewed as often as the heat
passes off, so the former should be applied as often as the heat from the skin
deprives the application of its cold.

2604. Poultices are only another form of fomentation, though chiefly used
for abscesses. The ingredient best suited for a poultice is that which retains
heat the longest ; of these ingredients, the best are linseed - meal, bran,
and bread. Bran sewed into a bag, as it can be reheated, will be found the
cleanest and most useful ; especially for sore throats.

How to Bleed.

2605. In cases of great emergency, such as the strong kind of apoplexy,
and when a surgeon cannot possibly be obtained for some considerable time,
the life of the patient depends almost entirely upon the fact of his being bled
or not. We therefore give instructions how the operation of bleeding is to be
performed, but caution the reader only to attempt it in cases of the greatest
emergency. Place a handkerchief or piece of tape rather but not too tightly
round the arm, about three or four inches above the elbow. This will cause
the veins below to swell and become very evident. If this is not sufficient,
the hand should be constantly and quickly opened and shut for the same
purpose. There will now be seen, passing up the middle of the fore-arm, a
vein which, just below the bend of the elbow, sends a branch inwards and
outwards, each branch shortly joining another large vein. It is from the
outer branch that the person is to be bled. The right arm is the one mostly
operated on. The operator should take the lancet in his right hand, between
the thumb and first finger, place the thumb of his left hand on the vein
below the part where he is going to bleed from, and then gently thrust the
tip of the lancet into the vein, and, taking care not to push it too deeply, cut
in a gently curved direction, thus and bring it out, point upwards, at about
half an inch from the part of the vein into which he had thrust it. The vein
must be cut lengthways, and not across. When sufficient blood has been
taken away, remove the bandage from above the elbow, and place the thumb
of the left hand firmly over the cut, until all the bleeding ceases. A small pad
of lint is then to be put over the cut, with a larger pad over it, and the two
kept in their places by means of a handkerchief or linen roller bound pretty
tightly over them and round the arm.

2606. When a person is bled, he should always be in the standing, or at any
rate in the sitting, position ; for if, as is often the case, he should happen to.

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HOUSEHOLD MANAGES! ENT.

faint, he can, in most cases at least, easily be brought to again by the operator
placing him flat on his back, and stopping the bleeding. This is of the
greatest importance. It has been recommended, for what supposed advan-
tages we don’t know, to bleed people when they are lying down. Should a
person, under these circumstances, faint, what could be done to bring him to
again ? The great treatment of lowering the body of the patient to the flat
position cannot be followed here. It is in that position already, and cannot
be placed lower than it at present is — except, as is most likely to be the case,
under the ground.

2607. Bleeding from the Nose. — Many children, especially those of a
sanguineous temperament, are subject to sudden discharges of blood from
some part of the body ; and as all such fluxes are in general the result of an
effort of naturo to relieve the system from some overload or pressure, such
discharges, unless in excess, and when likely to produce debility, should not
be rashly or too abruptly checked. In general, these discharges are confined
to the summer or spring months of the year, and follow pains in the head, a
sense of drowsiness, languor, or oppression ; and, as such symptoms are
relieved by the loss of blood, the hemorrhage should, to a certain extent, be
encouraged. When, however, the bleeding is excessive, or returns too fre-
quently, it becomes necessary to apply means to subduo or mitigate the
amount. For this purpose the sudden and unexpected application of cold is
itself sufficient, in most cases, to arrest the most active hemorrhage. A wet
towel laid suddenly on the back, between the shoulders, and placing the
child in a recumbent posture, is often sufficient to effect the object; where,
however, the effusion resists such simple means, napkins wrung out of cold
water must be laid across the forehead and nose, the hands dipped in cold
water, and a bottle of hot water applied to the feet. If, in spite of those
means, the bleeding continues, a little fine wool or a few folds of lint, tied
together by a piece of thread, must be pushed up the nostril from which the
blood flows, to act as a plug and pressure on the bleeding vessel. When the
discharge has entirely ceased, the plug is to be pulled out by means of the
thread. To prevent a repetition of the hemorrhage, the body should be
sponged every morning with cold water, and the child put under a course of
steel wine, have open-air exercise, and, if possible, salt-water bathing. For
children, a key suddenly dropped down the back between the skin and clothes,
will often immediately arrest a copious bloeding.

2608. Sfitting of Blood, or hemorrhage from tho lungs, is generally
known from blood from the stomach by its being of a brighter colour,
and in less quantities than that, which is always grumous and mixed
with tho half-digested food. In either case, rest should bo immediately
enjoined, total abstinence from stimulants, and a low, poor diet, accom-
panied with the horizontal position, and bottles of boiling water to the
feet. At the same time the patient should suck through a quill, every
hour, half a wine-glass of water in which 10 or 15 drops of tho elixir of

THE DOCTOH.

1067

vitriol Las been mixed, and, till further advice has boon procured, keep a
towel wrung out of cold water on tho chest or stomach, according to the seat
of the hemorrhage.

Bites and Stings.

2609. Bites and Stings may be divided into three kinds; — 3. Those of
Insects. 2. Those of Snakes. 3. Those of Dogs and other Animals.

2610. 1. The Bites or Stings of Insects, such as gnats, bees, wasps, &c.,
need cause very little alarm, and are) generally speaking, easily cured. They
are very serious, however, when they take place on some delicate part of the
body, such as near the eye, or in the throat. The treatment is Tery simple in
most cases ; and consists in taking out the sting, if it is left behind, with a
needle, and applying to the part a liniment made of finely-scraped chalk and
olive-oil, mixed together to about the thickness of cream.

2611. Bathing the part bitten with warm turpentine or warm vinegar is
also of great use. If the person feels faint, he should lie quietly on bis back,
and take a little brandy-and-water, or sal-volatile and water. When the
inside of the throat is the part stung, there is great danger of violent inflam-
mation taking place. In this case, from eight to twelve leeches should be
immediately put to the outside of the throat, and when they drop off, the
part to which they had been applied should be well fomented with warm
water. Tho inside of the throat is to be constantly gargled with salt and
water. Bits of ice are to be sucked. Rubbing the face and hands well over
with plain olive-oil, before going to bed, will often keep gnats and musquitoes
from biting during the night. Strong scent, such as eau-de-Cologne, will have
the same effect.

2612. 2. Bites of Snakes. — These are much more dangerous than the pre-
ceding, and require more powerful remedies. The bites of the different kinds
of snakes do not all act alike, but affect people in different ways. — Treatment
of the part lilten. The great thing is to prevent the poison getting into the
blood ; and, if possible, to remove the whole of it at once from the body.
A pocket-handkerchief, a piece of tape or cord, or, in fact, of anything that
is at hand, should be tied tightly round the part of the body bitten ; if it bo
the leg or arm, immediately above the bite, and between it and the heart.
The bite should then be sucked several times by any one who is near. There
is no danger in this, provided the person who does it has not got the skin
taken off any part of his mouth. What has been sucked into the mouth
should be immediately spit out again. But if those who are near have suffi-
cient nerve for the operation, and a suitable instrument, they should cut out
the central part bitten, and then bathe the wound for some time with warm
water, to make it bleed freely. The wound should afterwards be rubbed with
a stick oi lunar caustic, or, what is better, a solution of this — 60 grains of
lunar caustic dissolved in an ounce of water — should be dropped into it. The
band should bo kept on tho part during the whole of the timo that these

10G8

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

moans nvo being adopted. The -wound sliould afterwards be covered with lint
dipped in cold water. Tho best plan, however, to bo adopted, if it can bo
managed, is tho following : — take a common wine-glass, and, holding it upside
down, put a lighted candle or a spirit-lamp into it for a minute or two. This
will bake out tho air. Then clap the glass suddenly over tho bitten part, and
it will become attached, and hold on to tho flesh. The glass being nearly
empty, the blood containing tho poison will, in consequence, flow into it from
the wound of its own accord. This process should be repeated three or four
times, and the wound sucked, or washed with warm water, before each appli-
cation of the glass. As a matter of course, when the glass is removed, all the
blood should be washed out of it before it is applied again. — Constitutional
Treatment. There is mostly at first great depression of strength in these
cases, and it is therefore requisite to give some stimulant ; a giass of hot
brandy-and-water, or twenty drops of sal-volatile, is the best that can be
given. When the strength has returned, and if the patient has not already
keen sick, a little mustard in hot water should bo given, to make him so. If,
on the other hand, as is often the case, the vomiting is excessive, a large
mustard poultice should bo placed over tho stomach, and a grain of solid
opium swallowed in tho form of a pill, for tho purpose of stopping it. Oifly
one of these pills should be given by a non-professional person. In all cases
of bites from snakes, send for a surgeon as quickly as possible, and act
according to the above directions until he arrives. If he is within any reason-
able distance, content yourself by putting on the band, sucking the wound,
applying the glass, and, if necessary, giving a little brandy-and-water.

2613. 3. Biles of Bogs. — For obvious reasons, these kinds of bites are more
frequently met with than those of snakes. The treatment is tho same as that
for snake-bites, more especially that of the bitten part. The majority of
•writers on tho subject are in favour of keeping the wound open as long as
possible. This may be done by putting a few beans on it, and then by
applying a large linseed-meal poultice over them.

Injuries and Accidents to Bones.

2614. Dislocation of Bones. — When the end of a bone is pushed out of its

natural position, it is said to be dislocated. This may bo caused by violence,
disease, or natural weakness of the parts about a joint. — Symptoms. De-

formity about the joint, with unnatural promincnco at one part, and depression
at another. The limb may be shorter or longer than usual, and is stifT and
unable to be moved, differing in these last two respects from a broken limb,
which is mostly shorter, never longer, than usual, and which is always more
movable. — Treatment. So much practical science and tact are requisite in
order to bring a dislocatod bone into its proper position again, that wo strongly
advise the reader never to interfere in these cases ; unless, indeed, it is
altogether impossible to obtain tho services of a surgeon. But bocauso any
one of us may very possibly bo placod in that emergency, wo give a few rough

THE DOCTOR.

10GI>

rules for the reader’s guidance. In the first place make the joint, from which
the bone has been displaced, perfectly steady, either by fixing it to some firm
object or else by holding it with the hands ; then pull the dislocated bone in a
direction towards the place from which it has been thrust, so that, if it moves
at all from its unnatural position, it may have the best chance of returning to
its proper place. Do not, however, pull or press against the parts too violently,
as you may, perhaps, by doing so, rupture blood-vessels, and produce most
serious consequences. When you do attempt to reduce a dislocated bone, do
it as quickly as possible after the accident has taken place, every hour making-
the operation more difficult. When the patient is very strong, he may be put
into a warm bath until he feels faint, or have sixty drops of antimonial wine
given him every ten minutes until he feels sickish. These two means are of
great use in relaxing the muscles. If the bone has been brought back again
to its proper place, keep it there by means of bandages ; and if there is much
pain about the joint, apply a cold lotion to it, and keep it perfectly at rest.
The lotion should be, a dessert-spoonful of Goulard’s extract, and two table-
spoonfuls of vinegar, mixed in a pint of water. Leeches are sometimes ne-
cessary. Unless the local pain, or general feverish symptoms, are great, the
patient’s diet should be the same as usual. Dislocations may be reduced a
week, or even a fortnight, after they have taken place. As, therefore, although
the sooner a bone is reduced the better, there is no very great emergency, and
as the most serious consequences may follow improper or too violent treatment,
it is always better for people in these cases to do too little than too much ; in-
asmuch as the good which has not yet may still be done, whereas the evil that
has been done cannot so easily be undone.

2615. Fractures of Bones. — Symptoms. 1. Deformity of the part.
2. Unnatural looseness. 3. A grating sound when the two ends of the broken
bone are rubbed together. 4. Loss of natural motion and power. In some
cases there is also shortening of the limb. — Fracture takes place from several
causes, as a fall, a blow, a squeeze, and sometimes from the violent action of
muscles. — Treatment. In cases where a surgeon cannot be procured im-

mediately after the accident, the following general rules are offered for the
reader’s guidance : — The broken limb should be placed and kept as nearly as
possible in its natural position. This is to be done by first puffing the two
portions of the bone in opposite directions, until the limb becomes as long as
the opposite one, and then by applying a splint, and binding it to the part by
means of a roller. When there is no deformity, the pulling is of course un-
necessary. If there is much swelling about the broken part, a cold lotion is
to be applied. This lotion ( which we will call Lotion No. 1) may be thus
made : — Mix a dessert-spoonful of Goulard’s extract and two tablespoonfuls
of vinegar in a pint of water. When the leg or arm is broken, always, if
possible, get it to the same length and form as the opposite limb. The broken
part should be kept perfectly quiet. When a broken limb is deformed, and a
particular musclo is on the stretch, placo tho limb in such a position as will
relax it. This will in most cases cure tho deformity. Brandy-and-water, or

1070

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

sal-volatilo and water, are to be given when the patient is faint Surgical aid
should, of course, be procured as soon as possible.

2616. Joints, Injuries to. — All kinds of injuries to joints, of whatever
description, require particular attention, in consequeuce of the violent in-
flammations which are so liable to take placo in these parts of the body, and
which do so much mischief in a little time. The joint injured should always
bo kept perfectly at rest ; and when it is very painful, and the skin about it
red, swollen, hot, and shining, at the samo time that the patient has general
feverish symptoms, such as great thirst and headache — leeches, and when they
drop off, warm poppy fomentations, are to bo applied ; the No. 1 pills above-
mentioned are to bo given (two are a doso for a grown person) with a black
draught three hours afterwards. Give also two tablespooufuls of the fever-
mixture every four hours, and keep the patient on low diet. When the
injury and swelling are not very great, warm applications, with rest, low diet,
and a dose of aperient medicine, will be sufficient. When a joint has received
a penetrating wound, it will require the most powerful treatment, and can only
be properly attended to by a surgeon. The patient’s friends will have to use
their own judgment to a great extent in these and in many other cases, as to
when leeches, fever-mixture, &c., are necessary. A universal rule, however,
without a single exception, is always lo rest a joint well after it ha3 been in-
jured in any way whatever, to purge the patient, and to keep him on low
diet, without beer, unless he has been a very great drinker indeed, in which
case he may still be allowed to take a little ; for if the stimulant that a person
has been accustomed to in excess be all taken away at once, he is very likely
to have an attack of delirium tremens. The quantity given should not, how-
ever, be much — say a pint, or, at the most, a pint and a half a day. Rubbing
the joint with opodeldoc, or the application of a blister to it, is of great
service in taking away the thickenings, which often remain after all heat, pain,
and redness have loft an injured joint. Great care should be observed in not
using a joint too quickly after it has been injured. When the shoulder-joint
is the one injured, the arm should be bound tightly to the body by means of
a linen or flannel roller, and the elbow raised ; when the elbow, it should be
kept raised in the straight position, on a pillow ; when tho wrist, it should be
raised on the chest, and suspended in a sling ; when the knee, it should be
kept in the straight position ; and, lastly, when the ankle, it should be a little
raised on a pillow.

2617. Bruises, Lacerations, and Cuts.— Wherever the bruise may be,
or however swollen or discoloured the skin may become, two or three applica-
tions of the extract of lead, kept to the part by means of lint, will, in an hour
or little more, remove all pain, swelling, and tenderness. Simplo or clean
cuts only require tho edges of the wound to bo placed in their exact situation,
drawn close together, and secured there by one or two slips of adhesive plaster.
When the wound, howover, is jaggod, or the flesh or cuticle lacerated, the parts
are to bo laid as smooth and regular as pessiblo, and -a piece of -lint, wetted

THE DOCTOR.

1071

in the extract of lead, laid upon the wound, and a piece of greased lint
placed above it to prevent the dressing sticking ; the whole covered over to
protect from injury, and the part dressed in the same manner once a day till
the cure is effected.

2618. Bruises and their Treatment. — The best application for a bruise,
be it large or small, is moist warmth ; therefore, a warm bread-and-water
poultice in hot moist flannels should be put on, as they supple the skin. If
the bruise be very severe, and in the neighbourhood of a joint, it will be well
to apply ten or a dozen leeches over the whole bruised part, and afterwards a
poultice. But leeches should not be put on young children. If the bruised
part be the knee or the ankle, walking should not be attempted till it can
be performed without pain. Inattention to this point often lays the founda-
tion for serious mischief in these joints, especially in the case of scrofulous
persons. In all conditions of bruises occurring in children, whether swellings
or abrasions, no remedy is so quick or certain of effecting a cure as the pure
extract of lead applied to the part.

. Burns and Scalds.

2619. Burns and Scalds being essentially the same in all particulars, and
differing only in the manner of their production, may be spoken of together.
As a general rule, scalds are less severe than burns, because the heat of water,
by which scalds are mostly produced, is not, even when it is boiling, so in-
tense as that of flame ; oil, however, and other liquids, whose boiling-point is
high, produce scalds of a very severe nature. Burns and scalds have been
divided into three classes. The first class comprises those where the burn is
altogether superficial, and merely reddens the skin ; the second, where the
injury is greater, and we get little bladders containing a fluid (called serum)
dotted over the affected part ; in the third class we get, in the case of bums, a
charring, and in that of scalds, a softening or pulpiness, perhaps a complete
and immediate separation of the part. This may occur at once, or in the
course of a little time, The pain from the second kind of burns is much more
severe than that in the other ‘two, although the danger, as a general rule,
is less than it is in the third class. These injuries are much more dangerous
when they take place on the trunk than when they happen on the arms or
legs. The danger arises more from the extent of surface that is burnt than
from the depth to which the burn goes. This rule, of course, has certain ex-
ceptions ; because a small burn on the chest or belly penetrating deeply is
more dangerous than a more extensive but superficial one on the arm or log.
When a person’s clothes are in flames, the best way of extinguishing them is
to wind a rug, or some thick material, tightly round the whole of the body.

2620. Treatment of the First Class of Burns and Scalds. — Of the j;art
affected. — Cover it immediately with a good coating of common flour, or
cotton-wool with flour dredged well into it, The groat thing is to keep the
affected surface of the skin from the contact of the air. The part will shortly

1072

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

got well, and tho skin may or may not pool off. — Constitutional Treatment.
If tho burn or scald is not oxtonsivo, and tliero is no prostration of strength,
this is very simple, and consists in simply giving a little aperient medicine —
pills (No. 2), as follows : — Mix 5 grains of blue pill and the same quan-
tity of compound extract of colocynth, and make into two pills — tho dose for
a full-grown person. Three hours after tho pills give a black draught. If
there aro general symptoms of fever, such as hot skin, thirst, headache, &c.
&c., two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture are to bo givon every four hours.
The fever-mixture, we remind our readers, is made thus . — Mix a drachm of
powdered nitre, 2 drachms of carbonate of potash, 2 teaspoonfuls of antimo-
nial wine, and a tablespoonful of sweet spirits of nitre, in half a pint of
water.

■2 (5c i. Second Class. Local Treatment. — As the symptoms of these kinds of
burns are more severo than those of the first class, so the remedies appropriate
to them are more powerful. Having, as carefully as possible, removed the
clothes from the burnt surface, and taking care not to break the bladders,
spread the following liniment (No. 1) on a piece of linen or lint — not the fluffy
side — and apply it to the part : the liniment should be equal parts of lime-
water and linseed-oil, well mixed. If the bum is on the trunk of tEe body, it
is better to use a warm linseed-meal poultice. After a few days dress the
wound with Turner’s cerate. If the burn is at the bend of the elbow, place
the arm in the straight position ; for if it is lent, the skin, when healed, will
be contracted, and tho arm, in all probability, always remain in tho same un.
natural position. This, indeed, applies to all parts of the body ; therefore,
always place the part affected in the most stretched position possible. —
Constitutional Treatment. Tho same kind of treatment is to be used as for the
first class, only it must be more powerful. Stimulants are more often necessary,
but must be given with great caution. If, as is often the case, there is great
irritability and restlessness, a dose of opium (paregoric, in doses of from sixty
to a hundred drops, according to age, is best) is of great service. The
feverish symptoms will require aperient medicines and the fever-mixture. A
drink mado of about a tablespoonful of cream of tartar and a little lemon-
juice, in a quart of warm water, allowed to cool, is a very nice one in these
cases. The diet throughout should not be too low, especially if there is much
discharge from the wound. After a few days it is often necessary to give
wine, ammonia, and strong boef-tea. These should be had recourso to when
the tongue gets dry and dark, and the pulse weak and frequent. If there
should be, after the lapse of a week or two, pain over one particular part of
the belly, a blister should bo put on it, and a powder of mercury and chalk —
grey powder, and Dover’s powder (two grains of the former and fivo of tho
latter) given three times a day. Affections of the head and chest also
frequently occur as a consequence of theso kinds of burns, but no ono who is
not a medical man can treat them.

2622. Third Class. — These are so severe as to make it impossible for a non-
professional person to be of much service in attending to them. When they

THE DOCTOR.

1073

occur, a surgeon should always bo sent for. Until ho arrives, however, the
following treatment should be adopted Place the patient full-length on his
back, and keep him warm. Apply fomentations of flannels wrung out of
boiling water and sprinkled with spirits of turpentine to the part, and give
wine and sal-volatile in such quantities as the prostration of strength requires ;
always bearing in mind the great fact that you have to steer between two
quicksands — death from present prostration and death from future excite-
ment, which will always be increased in proportion to the amount of stimulants
given. Give, therefore, only just as much as is absolutely necessary to keep
life in tho body.

2623. Concussion on Brain— Stunning. — This may be caused by a blow

or a fall. — Symptoms. Cold skin ; weak pulse ; almost total insensibility ;
slow, weak breathing ; pupil of eye sometimes bigger, sometimes smaller, than
natural ; inability to move ; unwillingness to answer when spoken to. These
symptoms come on directly after the accident. — Treatment. Place the

patient quietly on a warm bed, send for a surgeon, and do nothing else for the
first four or six hours. After this time the skin will become hot, the pulse
full, and the patient feverish altogether. If the surgeon has not arrived by
the time these symptoms have set in, shave the patient’s head, and apply the
following lotion (No. 2) : Mix half an ounce of sal-ammoniac, two tablespoon-
fuls of vinegar, and the same quantity of gin or whisky, in half a pint of
water. Then give this pill (No. 1) : Mix five grains of calomel and the same
quantity of antimonial powder with a little bread-crumb, and make into two
pills. Give a black draught three hours after the pill, and two tablespoonfuls
of tho above-mentioned fever-mixture every four hours. Keep on low diet.
Leeches are sometimes to bo applied to the head. These cases are often fol-
lowed by violent inflammation of the brain. They can, therefore, only bo
attended to properly throughout by a surgeon. The great thing for people to
do in these cases is — nothing ; contenting themselves with putting tho patient
to bed, and waiting the arrival of a surgeon.

2624. The Cholera and Autumnal Complaints. — To oppose cholera, there
seems no surer or better means than cleanliness, sobriety, and judicious
ventilation. Where there is dirt, that is the place for cholera ; where windows
and doors are kept most jealously shut, there cholera will find easiest entrance ;
and people who indulge in intemperate diet during the hot days of autumn
are actually courting death. To repeat it, cleanliness, sobriety, and Lee
ventilation almost always defy the pestilence ; but, in case of attack, immediate
recourse should be had to a physician. The faculty say that a large number
of lives have been lost, in many seasons, solely from delay in seeking medical
assistance. Thoy even -assert that, taken early, tho cholera is by no means a
fatal disorder. Tho copious use of salt is recommended on very excellent
authority. Other autumnal complaints there are, of which diarrhoea is tho
worst example. They come on with pain, flatulence, sickness, with or without
vomiting, followed by loss of appetite, general lassitude, and weakness. If

3 z

1074

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

attended to at the first appearance, they may soon be conquered ; for which
purpose it is necessary to assist nature in throwing off the contents of the
bowols, which may bo done by means of the following prescription : — Take of
calomel 3 grains, rhubarb 8 grains ; mix and take it in a little honey or jelly,
and repeat the dose three times, at the intervals of four or five hours. The
next purpose to be answered is tho dcfeuce of the lining membrane of the
intestines from their acrid contents, which will be best effected by drinking
copiously of linseed tea, or of a drink made by pouring boiling water on quince-
seeds, which are of a very mucilaginous nature ; or, what is still better, full
draughts of whey. If the complaint continue after these means have been
employed, some astringent or binding medicine will be required, as the sub-
joined : — Take of prepared chalk 2 drachms, cinnamon-water 7 oz., syrup of
poppies 1 oz1. ; mix, and take 3 tablespoonfuls every four hours. Should this
fail to complete the cure, h oz. of tincture of catechu, or of kino, may be
added to it, and then it will seldom fail ; or a teaspoonful of the tincture of
kino alone, with a little water, every three hours, till tho diarrhoea is checked.
While any symptoms of derangement are present, particular attention must
be paid to the diet, which should be of a soothing, lubricating, and light
nature, as instanced in veal or chicken broth, which should contain but little
salt. Rice, batter, and bread puddings will be generally relished, and be eaten
with advantage ; but the stomach is too much impaired to digest food of a
more solid nature. Indeed, we should give that organ, together with the
bowels, as little trouble as possible, while they are so incapable of acting in
then- accustomed manner. Much mischief is frequently produced by the absurd
practice of taking tincture of rhubarb, which is almost certain of aggravating
that species of disorder of which we have now treated ; for it is a spirit as strong
as brandy, and cannot fail of producing harm upon a surface which is rendered
tender by the formation and contact of vitiated bile. But our last advice is,
upon the first appearance of such symptoms as are above detailed, have
immediate recourse to a doctor, where possible.

2625. To Cure a Cold. — Put a largo teacupful of linseed, with .j lb. of sun
raisins and 2 oz. of stick liquorice, into 2 quarts of soft water, and let it simmer
over a slow fire till reduced to one quart ; add to it | lb. of pounded sugar-
candy, a tablespoonful of old rum, and a tablespoonful of the best white-wine
vinegar, or lemon-juice. The ram and vinegar should be added as the de-
coction is taken ; for, if they are put in at first, the whole soon becomes fiat
and less efficacious. The dose is half a pint, made warm, on going to bed ;
and a little may be taken whenever the cough is troublesome. The worst cold
is generally cured by this remedy in two or three days ; and, if taken in time,
is considered infallible.

2626. Cold on the Chest. — A flannel dipped in boiliug water, and sprinkled
with turpentine, laid on tho chest as quickly as possible, will relievo the most
severe cold or hoarseness.

2627. Substances in the Eye.— To remove fine particles of gravel, lime,

TIIE DOCTOR.

1G75

&c., the eye should be syringed with lukewarm water till frco from thorn.
Be particular not to worry tho eye, uucler the impression that the substanco
is still thero, which the enlargement of some of the minute vessels makes the
patient believe is actually the case.

2628. Sore Eyes. — Incorporate thoroughly, in a glass mortar or vessel, one
part of strong citron ointment with three parts of spermaceti ointment. Use
tho mixture night and morning, by placing a piece of the size of a pea in tho
corner of the eye affected, only to be used in cases of chronic or long-standing
inflammation of the organ, or its lids.

2629. Lime in the Eye. — Bathe the eya with a little weak vinegar-and-
water, and carefully remove any little piece of lime which may be seen, with
a feather. If any lime has got entangled in the eyelashes, carefully clear it
away with a bit of soft linen soaked in viuegar-aud-water. Violent inflamma-
tion is sure to follow ; a smart purge must be therefore administered, and in
all probability a blister must be applied on tho temple, behind the ear, or
nape of the neck.

2630. Stye in the Eye. — Styes are little abscesses which form between the
roots of tho eyelashes, and are rarely larger than a small pea. The best way
to manage them is to bathe them frequently with warm water, or in warm
poppy-water, if very painful. When they have burst, uso an ointment composed
of one part of citron ointment and four of spermaceti, well rubbed together,
and smear along the edge of the eyelid. Give a grain or two of calomel with 5
or 8 grains of rhubarb, according to tho age of the child, twice a week. The old-
fashioned and apparently absurd practice of rubbing the stye with a ring, is
as good and speedy a cure as that by any process of medicinal application ;
though the number of times it is nibbed, or the quality of the ring and
direction of the strokes, has nothing to do with its success. The pressure and
the friction excite the vessels of the part, and cause an absorption of tho
effused matter under the eyelash. The edge of the nail will answer as well as
a ring.

2631. Inflammation of the Eyelids, — The following ointment has beon
found very beneficial in inflammations of the eyeball and edges of tho
eyelids : — Take of prepared calomel, 1 scruple ; spermaceti ointment, A oz.
Mix them well together in a glass mortar ; apply a small quantity to each
corner of the eye every night and morning, and also to tho edges of tho
lids, if they are affected. If this should not eventually remove the inflamma-
tion, elder-flower water may bo applied three or four times a day, by means
of an eye-cup. Tho bowels should bo kept in a laxative stato, by taking
occasionally a quarter of an ounce of tho Cheltenham or Epsom salts.

2632. Fasting. — It is said by many ablo phys^ans that fasting is a means
of removing incipient disease, and of restoring the body to its customary healthy

3 z 2

107G

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

sensations. Howard, tlio cclobrated philanthropist (says a writer), used to fast
ono day in every week. Napoleon, when ho felt his system unstrung, suspended
his wonted repast, and took his exercise on horseback.

Pits.

-2633. Fits come on so suddenly, often without even the slightest warning, and
may prove fatal so quickly, that all people should bo acquainted at least with
their leading symptoms and treatment, as a few moments, more or less, will
often decide the question between life and death. The treatment, in very
many cases at least, to be of the slightest use, should be immediate, as a person
in a fit (of apoplexy for instance) may die while a surgeon is being fetched
from only the next street. We shall give, as far as the fact of our editing
a work for non-professional readers will permit, the peculiar and distinctive
symptoms of all land of fits, and the immediate treatment to be adopted in
each case.

0634. Apoplexy. — Theso fits may bo divided into two kinds — the strong
and the weak.

2635. 1. The strong hind. — These cases mostly occur in stout, strong, short-
necked, bloated-faced people, who are in the habit of living well. — Symptoms.
The patient may or may not have had headache, sparks before his eyes,
with confusion of ideas and giddiness, for a day or two before the attack.
When it takes place, he falls down inseusible ; the body becomes para-
lyzed, generally more so on one side than the other ; the face and head are
hot, and the blood-vessels about them swollen ; the pupils of tho eyes are
larger than natural, and the eyes themselves are fixed ; the mouth is mostly
drawn down at one corner ; the breathing is like loud snoring ; the pulse full
and hard. — Treatment. Place the patient immediately in bed, with his head
well raised ; take off everything that ho has round his neck, and bleed
freely and at once from the arm. If you have not got a lancet, use a pen-
knife or anything suitable that may be at hand. Apply warm mustard
poultices to the soles of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs ; put
two drops of castor oil, mixed up with eight grains of calomel, on the
top of the tongue, as far back as possible ; a most important part of
the treatment being to open the bowels as quickly and finely as possible.
Tho patient cannot swallow ; but these medicines, especially the oil,
will be absorbed into the stomach altogether independent of any voluntary
action. If possible, throw up a warm turpentine clyster (two table-
spoonfuls of oil of turpentine in a pint of warm gruel), or, if this cannot bo
obtained, one composed of about a quart of warm salt-and-water and soap.
Cut off tho hair, and apply rags dipped in weak vinegar-and-water, or weak
giu-and-water, or even simplo cold water, to the head. If tho blood-vessels
about tho head and neck aro much swollen, put from eight to ten leeches on
tho temple opposite to tho#paralyzcd sido of tho body. Always scud for a
surgeon immediately, and act according to tho abovo rules, doing more or less,

TOE DOCTOR.

1077

according to tlio means at band, and the length of timo that must necessarily
elapse until bo arrives. A pint, or even a quart of blood in a very strong
porson, may be taken away. When the patient is able to swallow, give him
tbo No. 1 pills, and the No. 1 mixture directly. [The No. 1 pills are made as
follows : — Mix 5 grains of calomel and the same quantity of antimonial
powder with a little bread-crumb : make into two pills, the dose for a full-
grown person. For the No. 1 mixture, dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in
half a pint of senna tea : take a quarter of tbo mixture as a dose.] Repeat
these remedies if the bowels are not well opened. Keep the patient’s head
well raised, and cool as above. Give very low diet indeed : gruel, arrowroot,
and the like. When a person is recovering, he should have blisters applied to
the nape of the neck, his bowels should be kept well open, light diet given,
and fatigue, worry, and excess of all kinds avoided.

2636. 2. The weak Jcind. — Symptoms. These attacks are more frequently pre-
ceded by warning symptoms than the first kind. The face is palo, the pulse
weak, and the body, especially the hands and legs, cold. After a little while,
these symptoms sometimes alter to those of the first class in a mild degree. —
Treatment. At first, if the pulse is very feeble indeed, a little brandy-and-
water or sal-volatile must be given. Mustard poultices are to be put, as
before, to the soles of the feet and tho insides of the thighs and legs. Warm
bricks, or bottles filled with warm water, are also to be placed under the arm-
pits. When the strength has returned, tho body become warmer, and the
pulse fuller and harder, the head should be shaved, and wet rags applied to it,
as before described. Leeches should be put, as before, to the temple opposite
the side paralyzed ; and the bowels should be opened as freely and as quickly
as possible. Bleeding from the arm is often necessary in these cases, but a
non-professional person should never have recourse to it. Blisters may be
applied to the napo of the neck at once. The diet in these cases should not
be so low as in the former — indeed, it is often necessary, in a day or so after
one of those attacks, to give wine, strong beef-tea, &c., according to the con-
dition of the patient’s strength.

2637. Distinctions between Apoplexy and Epilepsy. — 1. Apoplexy mostly
happens in people over thirty, whereas epilepsy generally occurs under that
age ; at any rate for the first timo. A person who has epileptic fits over
thirty, has generally suffered from them for some years. 2. Again, in
apoplexy, the body is paralysed; and, therefore, has not the convulsions
which take place in epilepsy. 3. The peculiar snoring will also distinguish
apoplexy from epilepsy.

2638. Distinctions between Apoplexy and Drunkenness. — 1. The known
habits of the person. 2. The fact of a person who was perfectly sober and
sensible a little time before, being found in a state of insensibility. 3. The
absence, in apoplexy, of the smell of drink on applying tho nose to the
mouth. 4. A person in a fit of apoplexy cannot be roused at all ; in drunken-
ness he mostly can, to a certain extent.

1078

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

2639. Distinction between Apoplexy and Hysterics. — Hysterics mostly
happen in young, norvous, unmarried women ; and are attended with convul-
sions, sobbing, laughter, throwing about of the body, &c. kc.

2640. Distinction between Apoplexy and Poisoning by Opium. — It is exceed-
ingly difficult to distinguish between theso two cases. In poisoning by opium,
however, we find tho particular smell of the drug in the patient’s breath. We
should also, in forming our opinion, take into consideration tho person’s
previous conduct— whether ho has been low and desponding for some time
before, or has ever talked about committing suicide.

2641. Epilepsy. — Falling Sickness. — These fits mostly happen, at any rate
for the first time, to young people, and are more common in boys than girls.
They are produced by numerous causes. — Symptoms. The fit may bo pre-
ceded by pains in the head, palpitations, &c. kc. ; but it mostly happens that
tho porson falls down insensible suddenly, and without any warning whatever.
The eyes are distorted, so that only their whites can bo seen ; there is mostly
foaming from tho mouth ; the fingers are clinched ; and the body, especially
on one side, is much agitated ; the tongue is often thrust out of the mouth.
When the fit goes off, the patient feels drowsy and faint, and often sleeps
soundly for some time. — Treatment. During the fit, keep the patient flat on
his back, with his head slightly raised, and prevent him from doing any harm
to himself ; dash cold water into his face, and apply smelling-salts to his nose ;
loosen his shirt collar, kc. ; hold a piece of wood about as thick as a finger —
the handle of a tooth-brush or knife will do as well — between tho two rows of
teeth, at the back part of the mouth. This will prevent the tongue from
being injured. A teaspoonful of common salt thrust into the patient’s mouth,
during the fit, is of much service. The after-treatment of these fits is various,
and depends entirely upon their causes. A good general rule, however, is
always to keep the bowels well open, and the patient quiet, and free from
fatigue, worry, and excess of all lands.

2642. Fainting Fits are sometimes very dangerous, and at others perfectly
harmless ; the question of danger depending altogether upon the causes which
have produced them, and which are exceedingly various. For instance,
fainting produced by disease of the heart is a very serious symptom indeed ;
whereas, that arising from some slight cause, such as the sight of blood, kc.,
need cause no alarm w'hatevcr. The symptoms of simple fainting are so well
known that it would bo quito superfluous to enumorato them here. Tho
treatment consists in laying the patient at full length upon his back, with his
head upon a level with tho rest of his bod}', loosening everything about the
nock, dashing cold water into tho face, and sprinkling vinegar and water about
tho mouth ; applying smelling-salts to the noso ; and, when the patient is able
to swallow, in giving a little warm brandy-and-water, or about 20 drops of
sal-volatile in water.

2643. Hysterics. — Those fits take place, for tho most paid, in young, nervous,

THE DOCTOR.

1079

unmarried women. They happen much less often in married women ; and
even (in some rave cases indeed) in men. Young women, who are subject to
theso fits, are apt to think that they are suffering from “ all the ills that flesh
is heir to and the false symptoms of disease which they show are so like
tho true ones, that it is often exceedingly difficult to detect the difference.
The fits themselves are mostly preceded by great depression of spirits, shed-
ding of tears, sickness, palpitation of the heart, &c. A pain, as if a nail
were being driven in, is also often felt at one particular part of the head. In
almost all cases, when a fit is coming on, pain is felt on the left side. This
pain rises gradually until it reaches the throat, aud then gives the patient a
sensation as if she had a pellet there, which prevents her from breathing pro-
perly, and, in fact, seems to threaten actual suffocation. The patient now
generally becomes insensible, and faints ; the body is thrown about in all
directions, froth issues from the mouth, incoherent expressions aro uttered,
and fits of laughter, crying, or screaming, take place. When the fit is going
off, the patient mostly cries bitterly, sometimes knowing all, and at others
nothing, of what has taken place, and feeling general soreness all over the
body. Treatment during the fit. Place the body in the same position as for
simple fainting, and treat, in other respects, as directed in the article on
Epilepsy. Always well loosen the patient's stays ; and, when she is recovering,
and able to swallow, give 20 drops of sal volatile in a little water. The
after-treatment of theso cases is very various. If the patient is of a strong
constitution, she should live on plain diet, take plenty of exercise, and take
occasional doses of castor oil, or an aperient mixture, such as that described
as “No. 1,” in previous numbers. If, as is mostly the case, the patient is
weak and delicate, she will require a different mode of treatment altogether.
Good nourishing diet, gentle exercise, cold baths, occasionally a dose of No. 3
myrrh and aloes pills at night, and a dose of compound iron pills twice a day.
[As to tho myrrh and aloes pills (No. 3), 10 grains made into two pills aro a
dose for a full-grown person. Of the compound iron pills (No. 4), the dose
for a full grown person is also 10 grains, made into two pills.] In every case,
amusing the mind, and avoiding all causes of over-excitement, are of great
service in bringing about a permanent cure.

2644. Liver Complaint and Spasms. — A very obliging correspondent
recommends the following, from personal experience : — Take 4 oz. of clricd
dandelion root, 1 oz. of tho best ginger, ] oz. of Columba root ; bruise and
boil all together in 3 pints of water till it is reduced to a quart : strain, and
tako a wine-glassful every four hours. Our correspondent says it is a “safe
and simple medicine for both liver complaint and spasms.”

2645. Lumbago. — A “new and successful mode” of treating lumbago,
advocated by Dr. Day, is a form of counter-irritation, said to have been intro-
duced into this country by tho late Sir Anthony Carlisle, and which consists
in the instantaneous application of a flat iron button, gently heated in a spirit-
lamp, to the skin. Dr. Corrigan published, about three years ago, an account

10S0

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

of some cases very successfully treated by nearly similar means. Dr. Corrigan’s
plan was, however, to touch the surface of the part affected, at intervals of
half an inch, as lightly and rapidly as possible. Dr. Day has found greater
advantages to result from drawing tho flat surface of the heated button lightly
over the affected part, so as to act on a greater extent of surface. Tho doctor
speaks so enthusiastically of tho benefit to be derived from this practice, that
it is evidently highly deserving attention.

2646. Palpitation of the IIeaht. — Where palpitation occurs as sympto-
matic of indigestion, tho treatment must bo directed to remedy that disorder ;
when it is consequent on a plethoric state, purgatives will bo effectual. In
this case the patient should abstain from every kind of diet likely to produce
a plethoric condition of body. Animal food and fermented liquor must bo
particularly avoided. Too much indulgence in sleep will also prove injurious.
When the attacks arise from nervous irritability, the excitement must be
allayed by change of air and a tonic diet. Should the palpitation originate
from organic derangement, it must be, of course, beyond domestic manage-
ment. Luxurious living, indolence, and tight-lacing often produce this affec-
tion : such cases are to be conquered with a little resolution.

26-17. Poisons

shall be the next subject for remark ; and we anticipate more detailed instruc-
tions for tho treatment of persons poisoned, by giving a simple List of TnE
phincipal Poisons, with then- Antidotes oe Remedies.

Oil of Vitriol 1

Aquafortis > Magnesia, Chalk, Soap-and-Water.

Spirit of Salt J

Emetic Tartar Oily Drinks, Solution of Oak-bark.

Salt of Lemons, or \ Chalk, Whiting, Lime, or Magnesia and "Water. Some-

Aeid of Sugar J times an Emetic Draught.

. , . - r Pump on back, Smelling-Salts to nose, Artificial Ereath-

Prussic Acid \ ing, Chloride of Lime to nose.

Pearlasb

Soap-Lees

Smelling-Salts .

Nitre

Hartshorn

Sal-Volatile ....

Lemon- Juice and Vinegar-and-Water.

Arsenic

Ely-Powder, or

White Arsenic > Water, Oily Drinks

King s Yellow, or | ‘

Yellow Arsenic

::1

Emetics, LimeAVater, Soap-and-Water, Sugar-and-

Mercury j

Corrosive Sublimate > Whites of Eggs, Soap-and-V ater.

Calomel J

Opium "

Laudanum

{Emetic Draught, Vinegar-and-Water, dashing Cold
Water ou chest and face, walking up and down for
two or three hours.

THE DOCTOK.

1031

Lend "|

White Lead .. I Epsom Salts, Castor Oil, Emetics.

Sugar ol Lead I r

Goulard’s Extract J

Blue-stone' ...... 1 Whites of Eggs, Sugar-and-Water, Castor Oil, Gruel.

Verdigris J

Zinc Lime-Water, Chalk-and-Water, Soap-and-Water.

Iron Magnesia, Warm Water.

Henbane 1

Hemlock I Emetics and Castor Oil; Brandy-and-Water, if ueoes-

Nightshade f sary.

Foxglove J

Poisonous Food Emetics and Castor Oil.

'2648. The symptoms of poisoning- may be known for the most part front
those of some diseases, which they are very like, from the fact of their coming-
on immediately after eating or drinking something ; whereas those of disease
come on, in most cases at least, by degrees, and with warnings. In most cases
where poison is known, or suspected, to have been taken, the first thing to be
done is to empty the stomach, well and immediately, by means of mustard
mixed in warm water, or plain warm salt-and-water, or, better, this
draught, which wo call No. 1 : — Twenty grains of sulphate of zinc in an
ounce and a half of water. This draught to be repeated in a quarter of an hour
if vomiting does not ensue. The back part of the throat should be well tickled
with a feather, or two of the fingers thrust down it, to induce vomiting. The
cases where vomiting must not bo used are those where the skin has been
taken off, and the parts touched irritated and inflamed by the poison taken,
and where the action of vomiting would increase the evil. Full instructions
are given in the article on each particular poison as to where emetics are or
are not to be given. The best and safest way of emptying the stomach is by
means of the stomach-pump, as in certain cases the action of vomiting is
likely to increase the danger arising from the swollen and congested condition
of the blood-vessels of the head, which often takes place. In the hands, how-
ever, of any one else than a surgeon, it would be not only useless, but harmful,
as a great deal of dexterity, caution, and experience are required to use it
properly. After having made these brief introductory remarks, we shall now
proceed to particulars.

2649. Sulphuric Acid, or Oil of Vitriol (a clear, colourless liquid, of an oily
appearance). — Symptoms in those who have swallowed it. When much is taken,
these come on immediately. There is great burning pain, extending from the
mouth to the stomach ; vomiting of a liquid of a dark coffee-colour, often
mixed with shreds of flesh and streaks of blood ; the skin inside the mouth is
taken off, and the exposed surface is at first white, and after a time becomes
brownish. There are sometimes spots of a brown colour round the lips and on
the neck, caused by drops of the acid falling on these parts. There is great
difficulty of breathing, owing to the swelling at the back part of the mouth.
After a time there is much depression of strongth, with a quick, woak pulse.

10S2

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

and cold, clammy skin. Tho faco is pale, and has a very anxious look. When
the acid swallowed has been greatly diluted in water, tho same kind of
symptoms occur, only in a milder dogree. — Treatment. Give a mixture of

magnesia in millc-and-wator, or, if this cannot bo obtained, of finely powdered
chalk, or whiting, or even of tho plaster torn down from tho walls or ceiling,
in milk-and-water. The mixture should be nearly as thick as cream, and
plenty of it given. As well as this, simple gruel, milk, or thick flour-and-
water, aro very useful, and should be given in large quantities. Violent in-
flammation of the parts touched by the acid is most likely to take place in the
course of a little time, and can only be properly attended to by a surgeon ;
but if one cannot be obtained, leeches, the fever-mixtures (tho recipe for which
appears repeatedly in previous paragraphs), thick drinks, such as barley-water,
gruel, arrowroot, &c., must bo had recourse to, according to the symptoms of
each particular case and the means at hand. The inflamed condition of the
back part of the mouth requires particular attention. When the breathing is
very laboured and difficult in consequenco, from fifteen to twenty leeches are
to be immediately applied to the outside of the throat, and when they drop
off, warm poppy fomentations constantly kept to the part. When the pain
over the stomach is very great, the same local treatment is necessary ; but if
it is only slight, a good mustard poultice will bo sufficient without tho leeches.
In all these cases, two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixturo should bo given
every four hours, and only gruel or arrowroot allowed to be eaten for some
days.

2650. Nitric Acid, commonly known as Aqua Fortis, or Red Spirit of Nitre
(a straw-coloured fluid, of the consistence of water, and which gives off dense
white fumes on exposure to the air). — Symptoms produced in those who have
swallowed it. Much the same as in the case of sulphuric acid. In this case,
however, the surface touched by the acid becomes yellowish. Tho tongue is
mostly much swollen. — Treatment. The same as for sulphuric acid.

2651. Muriatic Acid, Spirit of Salt (a thin yellow fluid, emitting dense
whito fumes on exposure to the air). — This is not often taken as a poison. The
symptoms aud treatment are much the same as those of nitric acid.

N.B. — In no case of poisoning by these three acids should emetics ever be given.

2652. Oxalic Acid, commonly called Salt of Lemons. — This poison maybe
taken by mistake for Epsom salts, which it is a good doal like. It may bo
distinguished from them by its very acid tasto and its shapo, which is that of
needle-formed crystals, each of which, if put into a drop of ink, will turn it
to a reddish brown, whereas Epsom salts will not change its colour at all.
When a large dose of this poison has been taken, death takes place very quickly
indeed. — Symptoms produced in those who have swallowed it. A hot, burning,
acid taste is felt in the act of swallowing, and vomiting of a greenish-brown
fluid is produced, sooner or later, according to tho quantity and strength of
the poison taken. Thoro itj great tenderness felt over tho stomach, followed
by clammy perspirations and convulsions ; tho legs aro often drawn up, and

TI1E DOCTOR.

1083

there is generally stupor, from which the patient, however, can easily be
roused, and always great prostration of strength. The pulse is small and weak,
and the broathing faint. — Treatment. Chalk or magnesia, made into a cream
with water, should be givon in large quantities, and afterwards the emetic
draught above prescribed, or some mustard-and- water, if the draught cannot
be got. The back part of the throat to be tickled with a feather, to induce
vomiting. Arrowroot, gruel, and the like drinks, are to be taken. When the
prostration of strength is very great aud the body cold, warmth is to be ap-
plied to it, and a little braudy-and- water, or sal- volatile and water, given.

2653. Prussic Acid (a thin, transparent, and colourless liquid, with a
peculiar smell, which greatly resembles that of bitter almonds). — Symptoms
produced in those who have swallowed it. These come on immediately after the
poison has been taken, and may be produced by merely smelling it. The
patient becomes perfectly insensible, and falls down in convulsions — his eyes
are fixed and staring, the pupils being bigger than natural, the skin is cold and
clammy, the pulse scarcely perceptible, and the breathing slow and gasping.
— Treatment. Yery little can be done in these cases, as death takes place so
quickly after the poison has been swallowed, when it takes place at all. The
best treatment — which should always be adopted in all eases, even though the
patient appears quite dead — is to dash quantities of cold water on the back,
from the top of the neck downwards. Placing the patient under a pump, and
pumping on him, is the best way of doing this. Smelling-salts are also to be
applied to the nose, and the chest well rubbed with a camphor liniment.

2654. Alkalis : Potash, Soda, and Ammonia, or common Smelling-Salts,
with their principal preparations — Pearlash, Soap Lees, Liquor Potasses,
Nitre, Sal Prunella, Hartshorn, and Sal- Volatile. — Alkalis are seldom taken
or given with the view of destroying life. They may, however, bo swallowed
by mistake. —Symptoms produced in those who have swallowed them. There is
at first a burning, acrid taste in, and a sensation of tightness round, the
throat, like that of strangling ; the skin touched is destroyed ; retching
mostly followed by actual vomiting, then sets in ; the vomited matters often
containing blood of a dark brown colour, with little shreds of flesh here aud
there, and always changing vegetable blue colours green. There is now great
tenderness over the whole of the belly. After a little while, great weakness,
with cold, clammy sweats, a quick weak pulse, and purging of bloody matters,
takes place. The brain, too, mostly becomes affected. — Treatment. Give two
tableSpoonfuls of vinegar or lemon-juice in a glassful of water every few
minutes until tho burning sensation is relieved. Any kind of oil or milk may
also be given, and will form soap when mixed with the poison in tho stomach.
Barley-water, gruel, arrowroot, linseed-tea, &c., are also veiy useful, and
should be taken constantly, and in large quantities. If inflammation should
take place, it is to be treated by applying leeches and warm poppy fomenta-
tions to the part where the pain is most felt, and giving two tablespoonfuls of
the fever- mixture eveiy four hours. The diet in -all these cases should only

household management.

lOSi

oonsist of arrowroot or gruel for tho first fow (lays, and then of weak broth or
beef-tea for somo time aftor.

2655. When very strong fumes of smelling-salts have in any way been
inhaled, there is great difficulty of breathing, and alarming pain in tho mouth
and nostrils. In this caso lot tho patient inhale tho steam of warm vinegar,
and treat tho feverish symptoms as before.

2656. Arsenic. — Mostly seen under tho form of white arsenic, or fly-powder,
and yellow arsenic, or king’s yellow.— Symptoms produced in those who have
swallowed it. These vary very much, according to tho form and dose in which
the poison has been taken. There is faintness, depression, and sickness, with
an intense burning pain in the region of the stomach, which gets worse and
worse, and is increased by pressure. Thero is also vomiting of dark brown
matter, sometimes mixed with blood ; and mostly great thirst, with a feeling
of tightness round, and of burning in, the throat. Purging also takes place,
the matters brought away being mixed with blood. The pulse is small and
irregular, and the skin sometimes cold and clammy, and at others hot. Tho
breathing is painful. Convulsions and spasms often occur. — Treatment. Give
a couple of teaspoonfuls of mustard in a glass of water, to bring on or assist
vomiting, and also use the other means elsewhere recommended for tho
purpose. A solution, half of lime-water and half of linseed-oil, well mixed,
may be given, as well as plenty of arrowroot, gruel, or linseed-tea. Simple
milk is also useful. A little castor-oil should bo given, to cleanse the intes-
tines of all the poison, and the after- symptoms treated on general principles.

2657. Corrosive Sublimate. — Mostly seen in the form of little heavy crystal-
line masses, which melt in water, and have a metallic taste. It is sometimes
seen in powder. This is a most powerful poison. — Symptoms. These mostly
come on immediately after the poison has been taken. There is a coppery
taste experienced in the act of swallowing, with a burning heat, extending
from the top of the throat down to the stomach ; and also a feeling of great
tightness round the throat. In a few minutes great pain is felt over the region
of the stomach, and frequent vomiting of long, stringy white masses, mixed
with blood, takes place. There is also mostly great purging. The counte-
nance is generally pale and anxious ; the pulso always small and frequent ; the
skin cold and clammy, and the breathing difficult. Convulsions and insen-
sibility often occur, and are very bad symptoms indeed. Tho inside of tho
mouth is more or less swollen. — Treatment. Mix the whites of a dozen eggs in
two pints of cold water-, and give a glassful of tho mixture every three or four
minutes, until the stomach can contain no more. If vomiting does not now
come on naturally, and supposing the mouth is not very sore or much swollen,
an emetic draught, No. 1, may be given, and vomiting induced. (The No. 1
draught, wo remind our readers, is thus mado : — Twenty grains of sulphate
of zinc in an ounce and a half of water; the draught to bo repeated if
vomiting does not take place in a quarter of an hour.) After the stomach has
been well cleaned out, milk, flour-and-water, linseed-tea, or barley-water,

THE DOCTOE.

1085

should he taken in large quantities. If eggs cannot bo obtained, milk, or
flour-and-water, should bo givon as a substitute for them at once. When the
depression of strength is very great indeed, a little warm brandy-and-water
must be given. In the course of an hour or two the patient should take two
tablespoonfuls of castor-oil, and if inflammation comes on, it is to be treated
as directed in the article on acids and alkalis. The diet should also be the
same. If the patient recovers, great soreness of the gums is almost certain
to take place. The simplest, and at the same time one of the best modes of
treatment, is to wash them well three or four times a day with brandy-and-
water.

2658. Calomel. — A heavy white powder, without taste, and insoluble in
water. It has been occasionally known to destroy life. — Symptoms. Much the
same as in the case of corrosive sublimate. — Treatment. The same as for
corrosive sublimate. If the gums are sore, wash them, as recommended in
the case of corrosive sublimate, with brandy-and-water three or four times
a day, and keep the patient on fluids, such as arrowroot, gruel, broth, or
beef-tea, according to the other symptoms. Eating hard substances would
make the gums more sore and tender.

2659. Copper. — The preparations of this metal which are most likely to be
the ones producing poisonous symptoms, are Hue- stone and verdigris. People
are often taken ill after eating food that has been cooked in copper saucepans.
When anything has been cooked in one of those vessels, it should never he
allowed to cool in it. — Symptoms. Headache, pain in the stomach, and
purging; vomiting of green or blue matters, convulsions, and spasms. —
Treatment. Give whites of eggs, sugar-and- water, castor-oil, and drinks, such
as arrowroot and gruel.

2660. Emetic Tartar. — Seen in tho form of a white powder, or crystals, with
a slightly metallic taste. It has not often been known to destroy life. — Symp-
toms. A strong metallic taste in the act of swallowing, followed by a burning
pain in the region of the stomach, vomiting, and great purging. The pulse is
small and rapid, the skin cold and clammy, the breathing difficult and pain-
ful, and the limbs Often much cramped. There is also great prostration of
strength. — Treatment. Promote tho vomiting by giving plenty of warm water,
or warm arrowroot and water. Strong tea, in large quantities, should be
drunk ; or, if it can be obtained, a decoction of oak bark. The after-treat-
ment is the same as that for acids and alkalis ; the principal object in all these
cases being to keep down the inflammation of the parts touched by the
poison by means of leeches, warm poppy fomentations, fever-mixtures, and
very low diet.

2661. Lead, and its preparations. Sugar of Lead, Goulard's Extract, White
Lead. — Lead is by no means an active poison, although it is popularly con-
sidered to bo so. It mostly affects people by being taken into the system
slowly, as in the case of painters and glaziers. A newly-painted house, too.

1086

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

often affects those living in it. — Symptoms produced when taken in a large
dose. There is at first a burning, pricking sensation in the throat, to which
thirst, giddiness, and vomiting follow. The belly is tight, swollen, and pain-
ful ; the pain being relieved by pressure. The bowels are mostly bound. There
is great depression of strength, and a cold skin. — Treatment. Givo an emetic
draught (No. 1, see above) at once, and shortly afterwards a solution of Epsom
salts in large quantities. A little brandy-and-water must be taken if the
depression of strength is very great indeed. Milk, whites of eggs, and
arrowroot are also useful. After two or three hours, cleanso the stomach and
intestines well out with two tablespoonfuls of castor-oil, and treat the symp-
toms which follow according to the rules laid down in other parts of these
articles. — Symptoms when it is taken into the body slowly. Headache, pain about
the navel, loss of appetite and flesh, offensive breath, a blueness of the edges
of the gums ; the belly is tight, hard, and knotty, and the pulse slow and
languid. There is also sometimes a difficulty in swallowing. — Treatment. Give
five grains of calomel and half a grain of opium directly, in the form of a pill,
and half an ounce of Epsom salts in two hours, and repeat this treatment until
the bowels are well opened. Put the patient into a warm bath, and throw up
a clyster of warmish water when he is in it. Fomentations of warm oil of
turpentine, if they can be obtained, should be put over the whole of the belly.
Tho great object is to open the bowels as freely and as quickly as possible.
When this has been done, a grain of pure opium may bo given. Arrowroot
or gruel should be taken in good large quantities. The after-treatment must
depen<J altogether upon the symptoms of each particular case.

2662. Opium, and its preparations. Laudanum, <L-c. — Solid opium is mostly
seen in the form of rich brown flatfish cakes, with little pieces of leaves
sticking on them here and there, and a bitter and slightly warm taste. The
most common form in which it is taken as a poison, is that of laudanum. —
Symptoms. These consist at first in giddiness and stupor, followed by insensi-
bility, the patient, however, being roused to consciousness by a great noise,
so as to be able to answer a question, but becoming insensible again almost
immediately. The pulse is now quick and small, the breathing hurried, and the
skin warm and covered with perspiration. After a little time, these symptoms
change ; the person becomes perfectly insensible, the breathing slow and snoring,
as in apoplexy, the skin cold, and the pulse slow and full. The pupil of the
eye is mostly smaller than natural. On applying his nose to the patient’s
mouth, a person may smell the poison very distinctly. — Treatment. Give an
emetic draught (No. 1, see above) directly, with large quantities of warm
mustard-and- water, warm salt-and- water, or simple warm water. Tickle the
top of the throat with a feather, or put two fingers down it to bring on
vomiting, which rarely takes place of itself. Dash cold wator on the head,
chest, and spine, and flap these parts well with the ends of wet towels. Give
strong coffee or tea. Walk the patient up and down in the open air for two
or three hours ; the great thing being to keep him from sleoping. Electricity
is of much sorvice. When the patient is recovering, mustard poultices should

THE DOCTOR.

1037

bo applied to tho soles of the feet and the insides of the thighs and legs.
The head should bo kept cool and raised.

•2663. The following preparations, which are constantly given to children
by their nurses and mothers, for tho purpose of making them sleep, often
prove fatal : — Syrup of Poppies, and Godfrey's Cordial. The author would
most earnestly urge all people caring for their children’s lives, never to allow
any of these preparations to be given, unless ordered by a surgeon.

2664. The treatment in the case of poisoning by Henbane, Hemlock, Night-
shade, and Foxglove, is much the same as that for opium. Vomiting should
be brought on in all of them.

2665. Poisonous Food. — It sometimes happens that things which are in
daily use, and mostly perfectly harmless, give rise, under certain un-
known circumstances, and in certain individuals, to the symptoms of poison-
ing. The most common articles of food of this description are Mussels,
Salmon, and certain kinds of Cheese and Bacon. The general symptoms are
thirst, weight about the stomach, difficulty of breathing, vomiting, purging,
spasms, prostration of strength, and, in the case of mussels more particularly,
an eruption on the body, like that of nettle-rash. — Treatment. Empty the
stomach well with No. 1 draught and warm water, and give two tablespoon-
fuls of castor-oil immediately after. Let the patient take plenty of arrow-
root, gruel, and the like drinks, and if there is much depression of strength,
give a little warm brandy-and-water. Should symptoms of fever or inflamma-
tion follow, they must be treated as directed in the articles on other kinds of
poisoning.

2666. Mushrooms, and similar kinds of vegetables, often produce poisonous
effects. The symptoms are various, sometimes giddiness and stupor, and at
othei-3 pain in and swelling of tho belly, with vomiting and purging, being tho
leading ones. When the symptoms come on quickly after taking the poison,
it is generally tho head that is affected. — The treatment consists in bringing
on vomiting in the usual manner, as quickly and as freely as possible. The
other symptoms are to be treated on general principles j if they are those of
depression, by brandy-and-water or sal-volatile ; if those of inflammation, by
leeches, fomentations, fever-mixtures, &c. &e.

2667: For Cure of Ringworm.— Take of subcarbonate of soda 1 drachm,
which dissolve in £ pint of vinegar. Wash the head every morning with soft
soap, and apply the lotion night and morning. One teaspoonful of sulphur
and treacle should also be given occasionally night and morning. The hair
should be cut close, and round the spot it should be shaved off, and tho part,
night and morning, bathed with a lotion made by dissolving a drachm of
white vitriol in 6 oz. of water. A small piece of either of the two subjoined
ointments rubbed into the part when the lotion has dried in. No, 1. — Take of

1083

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

citron ointment 1 drachm ; sulphur and tar ointment, of each h oz. : mix
thoroughly, and apply twice a day. No. 2. — Take of simple cerate 1 oz. ;
creosote 1 drachm ; calomel 30 grains : mix and use in the same manner as
the first. Concurrent with those external remedies, the child should take an
alterative powder overy morning, or, if they act too much on the bowels, only
every second day. The following will bo found to answer all the intentions
desired.

2C6S. Alterative Powders for Ringworm. — Take of *

Mix carefully, and divide into 12 powders for a child from 1 to 2 years old ;
into 9 powders for a child from 2 to 4 years ; and into 6 powders for a child
from 4 to 6 years. Where the patient is older, the strength may be increased
by enlarging the quantities of the drugs ordered, or by giving one and a half
or two powders for one dose. The ointment is to be well washed off every
morning with soap-and-wator, and the part bathed with the lotion before
re-applying the ointment. An imperative fact must be remembered by
mother or nurse, — never to use the same comb employed for the child with
ringworm, for the healthy children, or let the affected little one sleep with
those free from the disease ; and, for fear of any contact by hands or other-
wise, to keep the child’s head enveloped in a nightcap, till the eruption is
completely cured.

2669. Scratches. — Trifling as scratches often seem, they ought never to bo
neglected, but should be covered and protected, and kept clean and dry until
they have completely healed. If there is the least appearance of inflamma-
tion, no time should be lost in applying a largo bread-and-water poultice, or
hot flannels repeatedly applied, or even leeches in good numbers may be put
on at some distance from each other.

2670. For Shortness op Breath, or Difficult Breathing.— Vitriolatcd
spirits of ether 1 oz., camphor 12 grains : make a solution, of which take a
teaspoonful during the paroxysm. This is found to afford instantaneous relief
in difficulty of breathing, depending on internal diseases and other causes,
where the patient, from a very quick and laborious breathing, is obliged to bo
in an erect posture.

2671. Sprains. — A sprain is a stretching of the lcadors or ligaments of a
part through some violence, such as slipping, falling on the hands, pulling a
limb, &c. &c. The most common are those of the ankle and wrist. Theso
accidents are more serious than peoplo generally suppose, and often moro
difficult to cure than a broken leg or arm. The first thing to bo dono is to

Sulphuret of antimony, precipitated
Grey powder ....

. 24 grains.
. 12 grains.
. 6 grains.

. 36 grains.

Calomel
Jalap powder .

TIIE DOCTOR.

1089

place the sprained part in the straight position, and to raise it a little as well.
Some recommend the application of cold lotions at first. The editress, how-
ever, is quite convinced that warm applications are, in most cases, the best for
for the first three or four days. These fomentations are to bo applied in the
following manner : — Dip a good-sized piece of flannel into a pail or basin full of
hot water or hot poppy fomentation, — six poppy heads boiled in one quart of
water for about a quarter of an hour ; wring it almost dry, and apply it, as
hot as the patient can bear, right round the sprained part. Then place
another piece of flannel, quite dry, over it, in order that the steam and
warmth may not escape. This process should be repeated as often as the
patient feels that the flannel next to his skin is getting cold — the oftener the
better. The bowels should be opened with a black draught, and the patient
kept on low diet. If ho has been a great drinker, he may be allowed to take
a little beer ; but it is better not to do so. A little of the cream of tartar
drink, ordered in the case of burns, may be taken occasionally if there is
much thirst. When the swelling and tenderness about the joint are very
great, from eight to twelve leeches may be applied. When the knee is the
joint affected, the greatest pain is felt at the inside, and therefore the greater
quantity of the leeches should be applied to that part. When the shoulder is
sprained, the arm should be kept close to the body by means of a linen roller,
which is to be taken four or five times round the whole of the chest. It
should also be brought two or three times underneath the elbow, in order to
raise the shoulder. This is the best treatment for these accidents during the
first three or four days. After that time, supposing that no unfavourable
symptoms have taken place, a cold lotion, composed of a tablespoonful of
sal-ammoniac to a quart of water, or vinogar-and-water, should be constantly
applied. This lotion will strengthen the part, and also help in taking away
any thickening that may have formed about the joint. In the course of two
or three weeks, according to circumstances, the joint is to be rubbed twice
a day with flannel dipped in opodeldoc, a flannel bandage rolled tightly round
the joint, the pressure being greatest at the lowest part, and the patient
allowed to walk about with the assistance of a crutch or stick. He should
also occasionally, wlieu sitting or lying down, quietly bend the joint back-
wards and forwards, to cause its natural motion to return, and to prevent stiff-
ness from taking place. When the swelling is very great immediately after
the accident has occurred, from the breaking of the blood-vessels, it is best to
apply cold applications at first. If it can be procured, oil -silk may be put
over the warm-fomentation flannel, instead of the dry piece of flannel. Old
flannel is better than now.

0672. Cure for Stammering.— Where there is no malformation of the
organs of articulation, stammering may be remedied by reading aloud with
the teeth closed. This should be practised for two hours a day, for three or
four months. The advocate of this simple remedy says, “ I can speak with
certainty of its utility.”

4 A

1000

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

2673. Stammering.— At a recent meeting of the Boston Society of Natural
History, Dr. Warren stated, " A simplo, easy, and effectual cure of stammer-
ing.” It is, simply, at every syllablo pronounced, to tap at the same time
with tho finger ; by so doing, “ the most inveterate stammerer will be surprised
to find that ho can pronounce quite fluently, and, by long and constant prac-
tice, I10 will pronounce perfectly well.”

2674- Suffocation, Apparent. — Suffocation may arise from many different
causes. Anything which prevents the air getting into the lungs will produco
it. Wo shall give the principal causes, and tho treatment to be followed in
each case.

2675. 1. Carbonic Acid Gas. Choice- Damp of Mines. — This poisonous gas
is met with in rooms whore charcoal is burnt, and where there is not sufficient
draught to allow it to escape ; in coalpits, near limekilns, in breweries, and
in rooms and houses where a great many people live huddled together in
wretchedness and filth, and where the air in consequence becomes poisoned.
This gas gives out no smell, so that we cannot know of its presence. A candle
will not burn in a room which contains much of it. — Effects. At first there is
giddiness, and a great wish to sleep ; after a little time, or where there is
much of it present, a person feels great weight in the head, and stupid ; gets
by degrees quite unable to move, and snores as if in a deep sleep. The limbs
may or may not be stiff. The heat of the body remains much tho same at
first. — Treatment. Remove tho person affected into the open air, and, even
though it is cold weather, take off his clothes. Then lay him on his back,
with his head slightly raised. Having done this, dash vinegar-and- water over
the whole of the body, and rub it hard, especially the face and chest, with
towels dipped in the same mixture. The hands and feet also should be rubbed
with a hard brush. Apply smelling-salts to the nose, which may be tickled
with a feather. Dashing cold water down the middle of the back is of great
service. If the person can swallow, give him a little lemon-water, or vinegar-
aud-water to drink. The principal means, however, to be employed in this,
as, in fact, in most cases of apparent suffocation, is what is called artificial
breathing. This operation should be performed by three persons, and in the
following manner : — The first person should put tho nozzle of a common pair
of bellows into one of tho patient’s nostrils; the second should push down,
and then thrust back, that part of the throat called “Adam’s apple;” and
the third should first raise and then depress the chest, one hand being placed
over each side of the ribs. These three actions should be performed in the
following order : — First of all, the throat should be drawn down and thrust
back ; then tho chest should bo raised, and the bellows gently blown into tho
nostril. Directly this is done, tho chest should bo depressed, so ns to imitato
common breathing. This process should bo repeated about eighteen times a
minute. Tho mouth and the other nostril should bo closed while the bellows
are being blown. Persevere, if necessary, with this treatment for seven or
eight hours— in fact, till absoluto signs of death aro visible. Many lives aro

THE DOCTOR.

1091

lost by giving it up too quickly. When tko patient becomes roused, he is to
bo put into a warm bod, and a littlo brandy-and-wator, or twenty drops of
sal-volatile, given cautiously now and then. This treatment is to bo adopted
in all cases where peoplo aro affected from broatking bad air, smells, &c. &c.

2676. 2. Drowning. — This is ono of the most frequent causes of death by
suffocation. — Treatment. Many methods have been adopted, and as some of
them are not only useless, but hurtful, we will mention them here, merely in
order that they may be avoided. In the first place, then, never hang a person
up by his heels, as it is an error to suppose that water gets into the lungs.
Hanging a person up by his heels would bo quite as bad as hanging him up
by his neck. It is also a mistake to suppose that rubbing the body with salt
and water is of service. — Proper Treatment. Directly a person has been taken
out of the water, ho should be wiped dry and wrapped in blankets ; but if 4
these cannot be obtained, the clothes of the bystanders must be used for the
purpose. His head being slightly raised, and any water, weeds, or froth that
may happen to be in his mouth, having been removed, he should be carried as
quickly as possible to the nearest house. He should now be put into a warm
bath, about as hot as the hand can pleasantly bear, and kept there for about
ten minutes, artificial breathing being had recourse to while ho is in it.
Having been taken out of the bath, he should be placed flat on his back, with
his head slightly raised, upon a warm bod in a warm room, wiped perfectly
dry, and then rubbed constantly all over the body with warm flannels. At
the same time, mustard poultices should be put to the soles of the feet, the
palms of the hands, and the inner surface of the thighs and legs. Warm
bricks, or bottles filled with warm water, should be placed under the armpits.
The nose should bo tickled with a feather, and smelling-salts applied to it.
This treatment should be adopted while the bath is being got ready, as well
as when the body has been taken out of it. The bath is not absolutely neces-
sary ; constantly rubbing tko body with flannels in a warm room having been
found sufficient for resuscitation. Sir B. Brodie says that warm air is quite as
good as warm water. When symptoms of returning consciousness begin to
show themsolves, give a little wine, brandy, or twenty drops of sal-volatile
and water. In some cases it is necessary, in about twelve or twenty-four
hours after the patient has revived, to bleed him, for peculiar hoad-symptoms
which now and then occur. Bleeding, however, even in the hands of pro-
fessional men themselves, should bo very cautiously used — non -professional
ones should never think of it. The best thing to do in these eases is to keep
tho head well raised, and cool with a lotion such as that recommended abovo
for sprains ; to administer an aperient draught, and to abstain from giving
anything that stimulates, such as wine, brandy, sal-volatile, &c. &c. As a
general rule, a person dies in three minutes and a half after he has been under-
water. It is difficult, however, to tell how long ho has actually been lender
it, although we may know well exactly how long he has been in it. This
being the case, always persevere in your attempts at resuscitation until actual
signs of death have shown themselves, even for six, eight, or ton hours.

4 a 2

1092

household management.

Dr. Douglas, of Glasgow, resuscitated a person who had been under water for
fourteen minutes, by simply rubbing tho whole of his body with warm flannels
in a warm room, for eight hours and a half, at the end of which time the
person began to show the yt ret symptoms of returning animation. Should tho
accident occur at a great distance from any house, this treatment should bo
adopted as closely as the circumstances will permit of. Breathing through
any tube, such as a piece of card or paper rolled into tho form of a pipe, will
do as a substitute for the bellows. To recapitulate : Rub the body dry ; tako
matters out of mouth ; cover with blankets or clothes ; slightly raise the head,
and place the body in a warm bath,- or on a bed in a warm room ; apply
smelling-salts to nose ; employ artificial breathing ; rub well with warm
flannels ; put mustard poultices to feet, hands, and insides of thighs and legs,
with warm bricks or bottles to armpits. Don't lleed. Give wine, brandy,
or sal-volatile when recovering, and yen-mere till actual signs of death are
seen.

2677- Briefly to conclude what we have to say of suffocation, let us treat of
Lightning. When a person has been struck by lightning, there is a general
paleness of the whole body, with the exception of the part struck, which is
often blackened, or even scorched. — Treatment. Same as for drowning. It
is not, however, of much use ; for when death takes place at all, it is generally
instantaneous.

2678. Cure for the Toothache. — Take a piece of sheet zinc, about the
size of a sixpence, and a piece of silver, say a shilling ; place them together,
and hold the defective tooth between them or contiguous to them ; in a few
minutes the pain will be gone, as if by magic. The zinc and silver, acting as
a galvanic battery, will produce on the nerves of the tooth sufficient electri-
city to establish a current, and consequently to relieve the pain. Or smoke a
pipe of tobacco and caraway-seeds. Again —

2679. A small piece of the pellitory root will, by the flow of saliva it causes,
afford relief. Creosote, or a few drops of tincture of myrrh, or friar’s balsam,
on cotton, put on the tooth, will often subdue the pain. A small piece of
camphor, however, retained in the mouth, is the most reliable and likely
means of conquering the paroxysms of this dreaded enemy.

2680. Warts. — Eisenberg says, in his “ Advice on the Hand,” that the
hydrochlorate of lime is the most certain means of destroying warts ; tho
process, however, is very slow, and demands perseverance, for, if discon-
tinued before tho proper time, no advantage is gained. Tho following is a
simple cure : — On breaking the stalk of the crowfoot plant in two, a drop of
milky juice will be observed to hang on the upper part of the stem ; if this be
allowed to drop on a wart, so that it be well saturated with tho juice, in
about three or four dressings the warts will die, and may be taken off with
the fingers. They may be removed by the abovo means from tho teats of

TIIE DOCTOR.

1093

cows, where they are sometimes very troublesome, and prevent them stand-
ing quiet to bo milked. The wart touched lightly every second day with
lunar caustic, or rubbed every night with blue-stone, for a few weeks, will
destroy the largest wart, wherever situated.

2681. To Cure a Whitlow. — As soon as the whitlow has risen distinctly,
a pretty large piece should be snipped out, so that the watery matter may
readily escape, and continue to flow out as fast as produced. A bread-and-
water poultice should be put on for a few days, when the wound should be
bound up lightly with some mild ointment, when a cure will be speedily com-
pleted. Constant poulticing both before and after the opening of the whitlow,
is the only practice needed ; but as the matter lies deep, when it is necessary
to open the abscess, the incision must be made deep to reach the sup-
puration.

2682. Wounds. — There are several kinds of wounds, which are called by
different names, according to their appearance, or the manner in which they
are produced. As, however, it would be useless, and even hurtful, to bother
the reader’s head with too many nice professional distinctions, we shall content
ourselves with dividing wounds into three classes.

2683. 1. Incised wounds or cuts — those produced by a knife, or some sharp
instrument.

2684. 2. Lacerated , or torn wounds — those produced by the claws of an
animal, the bite of a dog, running quickly against some projecting blunt
object, such as a nail, &c.

2683. 3. PunctvA'cd or penetrating wou nds — those produced by anything
running deeply into the flesh ; such as a sword, a sharp nail, a spike, the point
of a bayonet, kc.

26S6. Class 1. Incised wounds or cuts. — The danger arising from these acci-
dents is owing moro to their position than to their extent. Thus, a cut of half
an inch long, which goes through an artery, is more serious than a cut of two
inches long, which is not near one. Again, a small cut on the head is more
often followed by dangerous symptoms than a much larger one on the legs. —
Treatment. If the cut is not a very large one, and no artery or vein is wounded,
this is very simple. If there are any foreign substances left in the wound,
they must be taken out, and tho bleeding must be quite stopped before the
wound is strapped up. If tho bleeding is not very great, it may easily be
stopped by raising tho cut part, and applying rags dipped in cold water to it.
All clots of blood must be carefully removed ; for, if they are left behind, they
prevent the wound from healing. When the bleeding has been stopped, and
the wound perfectly cleaned, its two edges are to be brought closely together
by thin straps of common adhesive plaster, which should remain on, if there
is not great pain or heat about the part, for two or three days, without being

1091

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

removed. The cut part should be kopt raised and cool. When the strips of
plastor aro to bo taken off, they should first bo well bathed with lukewarm
wator. This will cause them to como away easily, and without opening the
lips of tho wound ; which accident is very likely to take placo, if they aro
pulled off without having been first moistened with tho warm water. If the
wound is not healed when the strips of plaster are taken off, fresh ones
must bo applied. Great care is required in treating cuts of the head, as they
aro often followed by erysipelas taking placo round them. They should be
strapped with isinglass-plaster, which is much less irritating than the ordinary
adhesive plaster. Only uso as many strips as aro actually requisite to keep
the two edges of tho wound together ; keep tho pationt quite quiet, on low
diet, for a week or so, according to his symptoms. Purge him well with the
No. 2 pills (five grains of blue pill mixed with the same quantity of compound
extract of colocynth ; make into two pills, the dose for an adult). If the
patient is feverish, give him two tablespoonfuls of the fever-mixture three
times a day. (The fever-mixture, we remind our readers, is thus made :
Mix a drachm of powdered nitre, 2 drachms of carbonate of potash, 2 tea-
spoonfuls of autimouial wine, and a tablcspoonful of sweet spirits of nitre in
half a pint of wator.) A person should be very careful of himself for a month
or two after having had a bad cut on the head. His bowels should be kept
constantly open, and all excitement and excess avoided. When a vein or
artery is wounded, the danger is, of course, much greater. These accidents,
therefore, should always be attended to by a surgeon, if ho can possibly bo
procured. Before he arrives, however, or in case his assistance cannot be
obtained at all, the following treatment should bo adopted : — Raise the cut
part, and press rags dipped in cold water firmly against it. This will often bo
sufficient to stop the bleeding, if the divided artery or vein is not dangerous.
When an artery is divided, the blood is of a bright red colour, and comes
away in jets. In this case, and supposing tho leg or arm to be the cut part, a
handkerchief is to be tied tightly round the limb above the cut ; and, if
possible, the two bleeding ends of the artery should each be tied with a piece
of silk. If the bleeding is from a vein, the blood is much darker, and does
not come away in jets. In this case, the handkerchief is to be tied below tho
cut, and a pad of lint or linen pressed firmly against the divided ends of the
vein. Lot every bad cut, especially where there is much bleeding, and even
although it may to all appearance havo been stopped, be attended to by a
surgeon, if one can by any means be obtained.

2687. Class 2. Laceraled or torn wounds. — Thero is not so much bleeding in
thoso casos as in clean cuts, because the blood-vessels are tom across in a zigzag
manner, and not divided straight across. . In other respects, however, they
are more serious than ordinary cuts, being often followed by inflammation,
mortification, fever, and in some cases by locked-jaw. Foreign substances are
also more likely to remain in them. — Treatment. Stop the bleeding, if tliero
is any, in the manner directed for cuts ; remove all substances that may bo in
the wound : keep tho patient quite quiet, and on low diet — gruel, arrowroot,

TIIE DOCTOR.

1095

and the like ; purge with the No. 1 pills and tho No. 1 mixturo. (Tho No. 1
pill : Mix 5 grains of cnlomol and tho same quantity of antimonial powder,
with a little bread-crumb, and make into two pills, which is the dose for an
adult. The No. 1 mixture : Dissolve an ounce of Epsom salts in half a pint of
senna tea. A quartor of the mixture is a dose.) If there are feverish symptoms,
give two tablespoonfuls of fever-mixture (see above) every four hours. It
possible, bring the two edges of the wound together, but do not strain the parts
to do this. If they cannot be brought together, on account of a piece of flesh
being taken clean out, or tho raggedness of their edges, put lint dipped in
cold water over tho wound, and cover it with oiled silk . It will then fill up
from the bottom. If the wound, after being well washed, should still contain any
sand, or grit of any kind, or if it should get red and hot from inflammation, a
large warm bread poultice will bo tho best thing to apply until it becomes
quite clean, or tho inflammation goes down. When the wound is a very large
one, the application of warm poppy fomentations is better than that of the lint
dipped in cold water. If the redness and pain about the part, and the general
feverish symptoms, are great, from eight to twelve leeches are to bo applied
round the wound, and a warm poppy fomentation or warm bread poultice
applied after they drop off.

c68S. Class 3. Punctured or penetrating wounds. — These, for many reasons,
are the most serious of all kinds of wounds. — Treatment. The same as that for
lacerated wounds. Pus (matter) often forms at the bottom of theso pounds,
which should, therefore, bo kept open at the top, by separating their edges
every morning with a bodkin, and applying a warm bread poultice immediately
afterwards. They will then, in all probability, heal up from the bottom, and
any matter which may form will find its own way out into the poultice. Some-
times, however, in spite of all precautions, collections of matter (abscesses)
will form at the bottom or sides of the wound. These are to be opened with a
lanect, and tho matter thus let out. When matter is forming, the patient
has cold shiverings, throbbing pain in the part, and flushes on the face, which
come and go. A swelling of tho part is also often seen. The matter in the
abscesses may bo felt to move backwards and forwards, when pressure is made
from one side of tho swelling to tho other with the first and second fingers
(the middlo and that next tho thumb) of each hand.

MEDICAL MEMOItAlMDA.

eCSq. Advantages op Cleanliness. — Health and strength cannot be long
continued unless the skin — all the skin — is washed frequently with a sponge or
other means. Every morning is best ; after which the skin should be rubbed
very well with a rough cloth. This is tho most certain way of preventing cold,
and a little substitute for oxcrciso, as it brings blood to the surfaeo, and causes
if to circulate woll through tho fine capillary vessels. Labour produces this

109G

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

circulation naturally. Tlio insensible perspiration cannot escape well if the
sldn is not clean, as the pores get choked up. It is said that in health about
half the aliment we take passes out through the skin.

2690. The Tomato Medicinal. — To many persons there is something un-
pleasant, not to say offensive, in the flavour of this excellent fruit. It has,
however, long been used for culinary purposes in various countries of Europe.
Dr. Bennett, a professor of some celebrity, considers it an invaluable article of
diet, and ascribes to it very important medicinal properties. He declares : —
1. That the tomato is one of the most powerful deobstruents of the materia
meclica ; and that, in all those affections of the liver and other organs where
calomel is indicated, it is probably the most effective and least harmful reme-
dial agent known in the profession. 2. That a chemical extract can be ob-
tained from it, which will altogether supersede the use of calomel in tho cure
of diseases. 3. That he has successfully treated diarrhoea with tills article
alone. 4. That when used as an article of diet, it is almost a sovereign remedy
for dyspepsia and indigestion.

2691. Warm Water. — Warm water is preferable to cold water, as a drink,
to persons -who are subject to dyspeptic and bilious complaints, and it may be
taken more freely than cold water, and consequently answers better as a
diluent for carrying off bile, and removing obstructions in the urinary secretion,
in cases of stone and gravel. When water of a temperature equal to that of
the human body is used for drink, it proves considerably stimulant, and is
particularly suited to dyspeptic, bilious, gouty, and chlorotic subjects.

2692. Cautions in visiting Sick-Rooms. — Never venture into a sick-room
if you are in a violent perspiration (if circumstances require your continuance
there), for the moment your body becomes cold, it is in a state likely to absorb
the infection, and give you the disease. Nor visit a sick person (especially if
the complaint be of a contagious nature) with an empty stomach ; as this dis-
poses the system more readily to receive the contagion. In attending a sick
person, place yourself where the air passes from the door or window to the bed
of the diseased, not betwixt the diseased person and any fire that is in the
room, as the heat of the fire will draw the infectious vapour in that direction,
and you would run much danger from breathing it.

2693. Necessity op good Ventilation in Rooms lighted with Gas. —
In dwelling-houses lighted by gas, the frequent renewal of the air is of great
importance. A single gas-burner will consume more oxygen, and produce
more carbonic acid to deteriorate the atmosphere of a room, than six or eight
candles. If, therefore, when several burners are used, no provision is made
for tho escape of the corrupted air and for tho introduction of pure air from,
without, the health will necessarily suffer.

LEGAL MEMORANDA.

CHAPTER XLIY.

2694. Humorists tell us there is no act of our lives which can be per-
formed without breaking through some one of the many meshes of the law
by which our rights are so carefully guarded ; and those learned in the law,
when they do give advice without the usual fee, and in the confidence of
friendship, generally say, “ Pay, pay anything rather than go to law ; ”
while those having experience in the courts of Themis have a wholesome dread
of its pitfalls. There are a few exceptions, however, to this fear of the law’s
uncertanties ; and we hear of those to whom a lawsuit is an agreeable
relaxation, a gentle excitement. One of this class, when remonstrated
with, retorted, that while one friend kept dogs, and another horses,
he, as he had a right to do, kept a lawyer ; and no one had a right to
dispute his taste. We cannot pretend, in these few pages, to lay down
even the principles of law, not to speak of its contrary exposition in
different courts ; but there are a few acts of legal import which all men — and
women too — must perform ; and to these acts we may be useful in giving a
right direction. There is a house to be leased or purchased, servants to be
engaged, a will to be made, or property settled, in all families ; and much of
the welfare of its members depends on these things being done in proper
legal form.

2695. Purchasing! a House. — Few men will venture to purchase a free-
hold, or even a leasehold property, by private contract, without making
themselves acquainted with the locality, and employing a solicitor to examine
the titles, ; but many do walk into an auction-room, and bid for a property
upon the representations of the auctioneer. The conditions, whatever they
are, will bind him ; for by one of the legal fictions of which we have still so
many, the auctioneer, who is in reality the agent for the vendor, becomes also-
the agent for the buyer, and by putting down the names of bidders and the
biddings, he binds him to whom the lot is knocked down to the sale and
the conditions, — the falling of the auctioneer’s hammer is the acceptance of
tlio offer, which completes the agreement to purchase. In any such trans-
action you can only look at the written or printed particulars ; any verbal
statement of the auctioneer, made at the time of the sale, cannot contradict
them, and they aro implemented by the agreement, which the auctioneer calls

1098

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

on tho purchaser to sign after Uio sale. You should sign no such contract
without having a duplicate of it signed by the auctioneer, and delivered to you.
It is, porliaps, unnecessary to add, that no trustee or assignee can purchase
property for himself included in the trust, even at auction ; nor is it safe to pay
tho purchase-money to an agent of the vendor, unless ho give a written
authority to tho agent to reccivo it, besides handing over tho requisite deeds
and receipts.

2696. Tho laws of purchase and sale of property aro so complicated that
Lord St. Leonai-ds devotes five chapters of his book on Property Law to tho
subject. The only circumstances strong enough to vitiate a purchase, which
has been reduced to a written contract, is proof of fraudulent representation
as to an encumbrance of which the buyer was ignorant, or a defect in title ;
but every circumstance which tho purchaser might have learned by careful
Investigation, the law presumes that he did know. Thus, in buying a leasehold
estate or house, all the covenants of the original lease aro presumed to bo
known. “ It is not unusual,” says Lord St. Leonards, “ to stipulate, in con-
ditions of sale of leasehold property, that the production of a receipt for the
last year’s rent shall be accepted as proof that all the lessor’s covenants were
performed up to that period. Never bid for one clogged with such a con-
dition. There aro some acts against which no relief can be obtained ; for
example, the tenant’s right to insure, or his insuring in an office or in names
not authorized in tho lease. And you should not rely upon tho mere fact of
tho insurance being correct at the timo of sale : there may have been a prior
breach of covenant, and tho landlord may not have waived his right of entry
for the forfeiture.” Aud where any doubt of this kind exists, the landlord
should be appealed to.

2697. Interest on a purchase is due from tho day fixed upon for completing :
whero it cannot be completed, the loss rests with the party with whom tho
delay rests ; but it appeal's, when the delay rests with the seller, and the
1 money is lying idle, notice of that is to be given to the seller to make him
liable to tho loss of interest. In law, the property belongs to the purchaser
from the dato of the contract ; he is entitled to any benefit, and must bear
any loss; the seller may suffer tho insurance to drop without giving notico ;
and should a fire take place, the loss falls on the buyer. In agreeing
to buy a house, therefore, provide at tho same time for its insurance. Com-
mon fixtures pass with the house, where nothing is said about them.

2698. There aro some woll-rccognizod laws, of what may bo called good-
neighbourhood, which affect all properties. If you purchase a field or house,
the seller retaining another field between yours and the highway, ho must of
necessity grant you a right of way. Whore tho owner of more than ono house
sells one of them, tho purchaser is entitled to benefit by all drains leading
from his house into other drains, and will bo subject to all necessary drains
for the adjoining houses, although tlioro is no oxpress reservation as to drains.

LEGAL MEMORANDA.

1099

Thus, if his nappens to bo a leading drain, other necessary drains may be
opened into it. In purchasing land for building on, you should expressly
reserve a right to make an opening into any sewer or watercourse on the
vendor’s land for drainage purposes.

2699. Const .ructions. — Among the cautions which purchasers of houses,
land, or leaseholds, should keep in view, is a not inconsiderable array of con-
structive notices, which aro equally binding with actual ones. Notice to your
attorney or agent is notice to you ; and when tho same attorney is employed
by both parties, and he is aware of an encumbrance of which you are igno-
rant, you are bound by it; even whore the vendor is guilty of a fraud to
which your agent is privy, you are responsible, and cannot be released from
the consequences.

2700. The Relations of Landlord and Tenant are most important to
both parties, and each should clearly understand his position. Tho proprietor
of a house, or house and land, agrees to let it either to a tenant-at-will, a
yearly tenanc}7, or under leaso. A tenancy-at-will may be created by parol or
by agreement ; and as the tenant may be turned out when his landlord pleases,
so he may leave when ho himself thinks proper ; but this kind of tenancy is
extremely inconvenient to both parties. Where an annual rent is attached
to tho tenancy, in construction of law, a lease or agreement without limitation
to any certain period is a lease from year to year, and both landlord and tenant
are entitled to notice before the tenancy can be determined by the other. This
notice must bo given at least six months before the expiration of the current
year of the tenancy, and it can only terminate at the end of any whole year
from the time at which it began ; so that the tenant entering into possession
at Midsummer, the notice must be given to or by him, so as to terminate at
the same term. When once he is in possession, he has a right to remain for
a whole year ; and if no notice be given at the end of the first half-year of his
tenancy, he will have to remain two years, and so on for any number of years.

2701. Tenancy by Sufferance. — This is a tenancy, not very uncommon,
arising out of the unwillingness of either party to take the initiative in a more
decided course at the expiry of a lease or agreement. The tenant remains in
possession, and continues to pay rent as before, and becomes, from sufferance,
a tenant from year to year, which can only bo terminated by one party or the
other giving the necessary six months’ notice to quit at the term correspond-
ing with the commencement of tho original tenancy. This tenancy at suf-
ferance applies also to an under-tenant, who remains in possession and pays
rent to tho reversioner or head landlord. A six months’ notice will be insuf-
ficient for this tenancy. A notice was given (in Right v. Darby, I.T.R. 159)
to quit a house held by plaintiff as tenant from year to year, on tho 17tli June,
1840, requiring him "to quit tho promises on tho 11th October following, or
such other day as his said tenancy might expire.” Tho tenancy had com-
menced on the 11th October in a former year, but it was hold that this was

noo

UOUSEIIOT.D MANAOEMBKT.

not a good notico for tlio year onding October 11, 1841. A tenant from year
to year gave his landlord notico to quit, ending the tenancy at a tiino within
tlio half-year ; the landlord acquiesced at first, but afterwards refused to
accept the notice. The tenant quitted the premises ; the landlord entered,
and oven made some repairs, but it was afterwards held that the tenancy was
not determined. A notice to quit must be such as the tenant may safely act
on at the time of receiving it ; therefore it can only be given by an agent pro-
perly authorized at the time, and cannot be made good by the landlord
adopting it afterwards. An unqualified notico, given at the proper time,
should conclude with “On failure whereof, I shall require you to pay me
double the former rent for so long as you retain possession.”

2702. Leases. — A lease is an instrument in writing, by which one person
grants to another the occupation and use of lands or tenements for a term of
years for a consideration, the lessor granting the lease, and the lessee accepting
it with all its conditions. A lessor may grant the lease for any term less than
his own interest. A tenant for life in an estate can only grant a lease for his
own life. A tenant for life, having power to grant a lease, should grant it
only in the terms of the power1, otherwise the lease is void, and his estate may
be made to pay heavy penalties under the covenant, usually the only ono
onerous on the lessor, for quiet enjoyment. The proprietor of a freehold —
that is, of the possession in perpetuity of lands or tenements — may grant a
lease for 999 years, for 99 years, or for 3 years. In the latter case, the lease
may be either verbal or in writing, no particular form and no stamps being
necessary, except the usual stamp on agreements ; so long as the intention of
the parties is clearly expressed, and the covenants definite, and well under-
stood by each party, the agreement is complete, and the law satisfied. In the
case of settled estates, the court of Chancery is empowered to authorize
leases under the 19 & 20 Viet. c. 120, and 21 k 22 Viet. c. 77, as follows : —

21 years for agriculture or occupation.

40 years for water-power.

99 years for building-leases. —

60 years for repairing-leases.

-2703. A lessor may also grant an under-lease for a term less than his own :
to grant the whole of his term would be an assignment. Leases are frequently
burdened with a covenant not to underlet without the consent of the landlord :
this is a covenant sometimes very onerous, and to be avoided, where it is
possible, by a prudent lessee.

2704. A lease for any term beyond threo years, whether an actual lease or
an agreement for one, must bo in the form of a deed ; that is, it must bo
“ under soal and all assignments and surrenders of leases must bo in the
same form, or they are void at law. Thus, an agreement made by letter, or
by a memorandum of agreement, which would bo binding in most cases.

LEGAL MEMORANDA.

1101

would bo valueless when it was for a lease, unless witnessed, and given under
hand and seal. The last statute, 8 & 9 Viet. c. 106, under which these pre-
cautions becamo necessary, has led to serious difficulties. “ The judges,” says
Lord St. Leonards, “feel the difficulty of holding- a lease in writing,- but not
by deed, to be altogether void, and consequently decided, that although such
a lease is void under the statute, yet it so far regulates the holding, that it
creates a tenancy from year to year, terminable by half a year’s notice ; and if
the tenure endure for the term attempted to be created by the void lease, the
tenant may be evicted at the end of the term without any notice to quit.” An
agreement for a lease not by deed has been construed to be a lease for a term
of years, and consequently void under the statute; “and yet,” says Lord
St. Leonards, “ a court of equity has held that it may be specifically enforced
as an agreement upon the terms stated.” The law on this point is one of
glorious uncertainty ; in making any such agreement, therefore, we should
be careful to express that it is an agreement, and not a lease ; and that it is
witnessed and under seal.

2705. Agreements. — It is usual, where the lease is a repairing one, to
agree for a lease to be granted on completion of repairs according to specifica-
tion. This agreement should contain the names and designation of the par-
ties, a description of the property, and the term of the intended lease, and all
the covenants which are to be inserted, as no verbal agreement can be made to
a written agreement. It should also declare that the instrument is an agree-
ment for a lease, and not the lease itself. The points to be settled in such an
agreement are, the rent, term, and especially covenants for insuring and
rebuilding in the event of a fire ; and if it is intended that the lessor’s consent
is to be obtained before assigning or underleasing, a covenant to that effect is
required in the agreement. In building-leases, usually granted for 99 years,
the tenant is to insure the property ; and even where the agreement is silent
on that point, the law decides it so. It is otherwise with ordinary tenements,
when the tenant pays a full, or what the law terms rack-rent ; the landlord is
then to insure, unless it is otherwise arranged by the agreement.

2706. It is important for lessee, and lessor also, that the latter does not
exceed his powers. A lease granted by a tenant for life before he is properly
in possession, is void in law ; for, although a court of equity, according to
Lord St. Leonards, will, “by force of its own jurisdiction, support a bond fide
lease, granted under a power which is merely erroneous inform or ceremonies,”
and the 12 & 13 Viet. c. 26, and 13 & 14 Viet. c. 19, compel a new leaso to
be granted with the necessary variations, while the lessor has no power to-
compel him to accept such a lease, except when the person in remainder
is competent and willing to confirm the original lease without variations, yet
all these difficulties involve both delay, costs, and anxieties.

2707. In husbandry leases, a covenant to cultivate the land in a husbandlike
manner, and according to the custom of the district, is always implied ; but

1102

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

it is more usual to proacribo tlio course of tillago which is to L>e pursued. In
tho case of houses for occupation, tho tenant would have to keep the house in
a tenaulablo state of repair during tho terra, and deliver it up in liko condi-
tion. This is not the caso with the tenant at will, or from year to year, where
the landlord has to keep the house in tcnantablc repair, and tho tenant is only
liable for waste beyond reasonable wear and tear.

2708. Insurance. — Every lease, or agreement for a lease, should covenant not
only who is to pay insurance, but how tho tenement is to be rebuilt in the
event of a fire ; for if tho house wero burnt down, and no provision made for
insurance, the tenant, supposing there was the ordinary covenant to repair in
the lease, would not only have to rebuild, but to pay rent while it was being re-
built. More than this, supposing, under the same lease, tho landlord had taken
the precaution of insuring, he is not compelled to lay out the money recovered
in rebuilding the premises. Sir John Leach lays it down, that “the tenant’s
situation could not be changed by a precaution, on the part of tho landlord,
with which he had nothing to do.” This decision Lord Campbell confirmed
in a more recent case, in which an action was brought against a lessee who
was not bound to repair, and neither ho nor the landlord bound to insure ;
admitting an equitable defence, the court affirmed Sir John Loach’s decision,
holding that the tenant was bound to pay tho rent, and could not require the
landlord to lay out the insurance money in rebuilding. This is opposed to the
opinion of Lord St. Leonards, who admits, however, that the decision of tho
court must overrule his dictum. Such being the state of the law, it is very
important that insurance should be provided for, and that the payment of rent
should be made to depend upon rebuilding the houso in the ovent of a fire.
Care must be taken, however, that this is mado a covenant of the lease, as well
as in the agreement, otherwise the tenant must rebuild tho houso.

2709. The law declares that a tenant is not bound to repair damages by
tempest, lightning, or other natural casualty, unless there is a special covenant
to that effect in the lcaso ; but if there is a general covenant to repair, the
repair will fall upon tho tenant. Lord Kenyon lays it down, in the case of a
bridge destroyed by a flood, tho tenant being under a general covenant to
repair, that, “ where a party, by his own contract, creates a duty or cliargo
upon himself, he is bound to mako it good, because ho might have guarded
against it in the contract.” The samo principle of law has been applied to a
houso destroyed by lightning. It is, therefore, important to havo this settled
in tho insurance clause.

2710. Lord St. Leonards asserts that “ his policies against firo are not so
framed as to render tho company legally liablo.” Generally tho property is
inaccurately described with reference to tho conditions under which you
insure. They aro framed by companies who, probably, are not unwilling to
havo a legal defenco against any claim, as thoy intend to pay what they deem
a just claim without taking advantage of anv technical objection, and intend-

LEGAL MEMORANDA.

1103

ing to make use of their defence only against what they believe to bo a fraud,
although they may not bo able to prove it. "But,” says his lordship, "do
not rely upon the moral foeliDg3 of the directors. Ascertain that your house
foils strictly within the conditions. Even having the surveyor of the company
to look over your house before the insurance will not save you, unless your
policy is correct.” This is true; but probably his lordship’s legal jealousy
overshoots the mark here. Assurance companies only require an honest
statement of the facts, and that no concealment is practised with their
surveyor ; and the case of his own, which he quotes, in which a glass door led
into a conservatory, rendering it, according to the view of the company,
"hazardous,” and consequently voiding the policy, when a fire did occur,
the company paid, rather than try the question; but even after the fire
they demurred, when called upon, to make the description correct and in-
dorse on the policy the fact that the drawing-room opened through a glass
door into conservatories. One of two inferences is obvious here ; either his
lordship has overcoloured the statement, or tho company could not be the
respectable one represented. The practice with all reputable offices is to
survey the premises before insurance, and to describe them as they appear;
but no concealment of stoves, or other dangerous accessories or inflammable
goods, should be practised. This certainly binds the office so long as no
change takes place ; but the addition of any stove, opening, or door through a
party wall, the introduction of gunpowder, saltpetre, or other inflammable
articles into the premises without notice, very properly "voids the policy.”
The usual course is to give notice of all alterations, and have them indorsed
on the policy, as additions to the description of the property : there is little
fear, where this is honestly done, that any company would adopt the sharp
practice hinted at in Lord St. Leonards’ excellent handy book.

2711. Breaks in tiie Lease. — Where a lease is for seven, fourteen, or
twenty-one years, tho option to determine it at the end of the first term is in
the tenant, unless it is distinctly agreed that the option shall be mutual,
according to Lord St. Leonards.

2712. Noxious Trades. — A clause is usually introduced prohibiting the
carrying on of any trade in some houses, and of noxious or particular trades in
others. This clause should be jealously inspected, otherwise great annoyance
may be produced. It has been held that a general clause of this description
prohibited a tenant from keeping a school, for which he had taken it, although
a lunatic asylum and publi c-house have been found admissible ; the keeping
an asylum not being deemed a trade, which is defined as " conducted by bu}7-
ing and selling.” It is better to have the trades, or class of trades objected
to, defined in the lease.

27T3- Fixtures. — In houses held under lease, it has been the practice with
landlords to loaso tho bare walls of tho tenement only, leaving the lesseo to put
in the stoves, cupboards, and such other conveniences as he requires, at his

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

1101

own option. Those, oxcopt undor particular circumstances, aro the property
of tho lessoo, and may oithor bo sold to an incoming tenant, or romoved at the
end of his term. The articles which may not be removed are subject to
considerable doubt, and aro a fruitful source of dispute. Mr. Commissioner
Fonblanque has definod as tenants’ property all goods and chattels ; 2ndly,
all articles “ slightly connected one with another, and with the freehold, but
capable of being separated without materially injuring the freehold;” 3rdly,
articles fixed to tho freehold by nails and screws, bolts or pegs, aro also
tenants’ goods and chattels ; but when sunk in the soil, or built on it, they aro
integral parts of the freehold, and cannot bo removed. Thus, a green-
house or conservatory attached to the house by the tenant is not remov-
able ; but the furnace and hot-water pipes by which it is heated, may be
removed or sold to the in-coming tenant. A brick flue does not come
under the same category, but remains. Window-blinds, grates, stoves, coffee-
mills, and, in a general sense, everything he has placed which can be
removed without injury to the freehold, ho may remove, if they aro separated
from the tenement during his term, and the place made good. It is not
unusual to leave the fixtures in their place, with an undertaking from tho
landlord that, when again let, the in-coming tenant shall pay for them, or
permit their removal. In a recent case, however, a tenant having held over
beyond his term and not removed his fixtures, the landlord let the premises to
a new tenant, who entered into possession, and would not allow the fixtures to
be removed — it was held by the courts, on trial, that he was justified. A
similar case occurred to the writer : he left his fixtures in the house, taking a
letter from the landlord, undertaking that the in-coming tenant should pay
for them by valuation, or permit their removal. The house was let ; the
landlord died. His executors, on being applied to, pleaded ignorance, as did
the tenant, and on being furnished with a copy of tho letter, the executors
told applicant that if he was aggrieved, he know his remedy ; namely, an
action at law. He thought the first loss the least, and has not altered his
opinion.

2714. Taxes. — Land-tax, sewors-rate, and property-tax, are landlord’s
taxes ; but by 30 Geo. II. c. 2, the occupier is required to pay all rates
levied, and deduct from the rent such taxes as belong to tho landlord. Many
landlords now insert a covenant, stipulating that land-tax and sewers-rato
aro to bo paid by tho tenants, and not deducted : this docs not apply to tho
property-tax. All other taxes and rates are payable by the occupier.

2715. Water-Bate, of course, is paid by the tenant. The water-compa-
nies, as well as gas-companies, have tho power of cutting off the supply ; and
most of them have also the right of distraining, in the same manner as land-
lords have for rent.

2716. Notice to Quit. — In the case of leasing for a term, no notice is
necessary ; the tenant quits, as a matter of course, at its termination ; or

LEGAL MEMORANDA.

1105

if, by tacit consent, ho remains paying rent as heretofore, he becomes a
tenant at sufferance, or from year to year. Half a year’s notice now becomes
necessary, as we have already seen, to terminate the tenancy ; except in
London, and the rent is under forty shillings, when a quarter's notice is
sufficient. Either of these notices may be given verbally, if it can be proved
that the notice was definite, and given at the right time. Form of notice is
quite immaterial, provided it is definite and clear in its purport.

2717. Tenancy for less than a year may be terminated according to the
taking. Thus, when taken for three months, a three months notice is
required; when monthly, a month’s notice; and when weekly, a weeks
notice ; but weekly tenancy is changed to a quarterly tenure if the rent is
allowed to stand over for three months. When taken for a definite time, as
a month, a week, or a quarter, no notice is necessary on either side.

271S. Dilapidations. — At the termination of a lease, supposing he has
not done so before, a landlord can, and usually does, send a surveyor to
report upon the condition of the tenement, and it becomes his duty to ferret
out every defect. A litigious landlord may drag the outgoing tenant into
an expensive lawsuit, which he has no power to prevent. He may even
compel him to pay for repairing improvements which he has effected in the
tenement itself, if dilapidations exist. When the lessor covenants to do all
repairs, and fails to do so, the lessee may repair, and deduct the cost from
the rent.

2719. Recovery of Rent. — The remedies placed in the hands of land-
lords are very stringent. The day after rent falls due, he may proceed to
recover it, by action at law, by distress on the premises, or by action of
ejectment, if the rent is half a year in arrear. Distress is the remedy usually
applied, the landlord being authorized to enter the premises, seize the goods
and chattels of his tenant, and sell them, on the fifth day, to reimburse
himself for all arrears of rent and the charges of the distress. There are a
few exceptions ; but, generally, all goods found on the premises may be
seized. The exceptions are— dogs, rabbits, poultry, fish, tools and imple-
ments of a man’s trade actually in use, the books of a scholar, the axe of a
carpenter, wearing apparel on the person, a horse at the plough, or a horse
he may be riding, a watch in the pocket, loose money, deeds, writings, the
cattle at a smithy forge, corn sent to a mill for grinding, cattle and goods of
a guest at an inn ; but, curiously enough, carriages and horses standing at
livery at the same inn may be taken. Distress can only be levied in tho
daytime, and if made after the tender of arrears, it is illegal. If tender is
made after the distress, but before it is impounded, the landlord must
abandon the distress and bear the cost himself. Nothing of a perishable
nature, which cannot be restored in the same condition — as milk, fruit, and
the like, must be taken.

4 B

1106

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

■2720. The law does not regard a day as consisting of portions. The popular
notion that a notice to quit should bo served bofore noon is an error. Although
distraint is one of the remedies, it is seldom advisable in a landlord to resort to
distraining for the recovery of rent. If a tenant cannot pay his rent, the sooner
he leaves the premises the better. If he be a rogue and won’t pay, he will
probably know that nine out of ten distresses are illegal, through the careless-
ness, ignorance, or extortion of the brokers who execute them. Many, if not
most, of the respectable brokers will not execute distresses, and the business
falls into the hands of persons whom it is by no means desirable to employ.

2721. Powers to relieve landlords of premises, by giving them legal posses-
sion, are given by 19 & 20 Viet., cap. 108, to tho county courts, in cases
where the rent does not exceed .£50 per annum, and under the circumstances
hereinafter mentioned ; i.e. : —

1. Where the term has expired, or been determined by notice to quit.

2. Where there is one half-year’s rent in arrear, and the landlord shall

have right by law to enter for the nonpayment thereof. As proof of
this power is required, the importance of including such a power in
the agreement for tenancy will be obvious.

In the county courts the amount of rent due may be claimed, as well as the
possession of the premises, in one summons.

2722. When a tenant deserts premises, leaving one half-year’s rent in arrear,
possession may be recovered by means of the police-court. The rent must
not exceed £20 per annum, and must be at least tbree-fourtlis of the value of
the premises. In cases in which the tenant has not deserted the premises,
and where notice to quit has been given and has expired, the landlord must
give notice to the tenant of his intended application. The annual rent in this
case, also, must not exceed £20.

2723. The I. O. U. — The law is not particular as to orthography; in.fact,
it distinctly refuses to recognize tho existence of that delightful science. You
may bring your action against Mr. Jacob Phillips, under the fanciful denomi-
nation of Jaycobb Fillipse, if you like, and the law won’t care, because the
law goes by ear ; and, although it insists upon having everything written,
things written are on!}' supposed in law to have any meaning when read,
which is, after all, a common-sense rule enough. So, instead of “ I owe you,”
persons of a cheerful disposition, so frequently found connected with debt,
used to write facetiously I. 0. U. , and the law approved of their so doing.
An I. O. U. is nothing more than a written admission of a debt, and may run
thus : —

15th October, 1860.

To Mr. W. Brown.

I. O. U. ten pounds for coals.

£10. John Jones.

If to this you add the time of payment, as “ payable in one month from this

LEGAL MEMORANDA.

1107

date,” your I. 0. U. is worthless and illegal ; for it thus ceases to be a mere
acknowledgment, and becomes a promissory note. Now a promissory note
requires a stamp, which an I. 0. U. does not. Many persons, nevertheless,
stick penny stamps upon them, probably for ornamental effect, or to make
them look serious and authoritative. If for the former purpose, the postage -
stamp looks better than the receipt stamp upon blue paper. If you are
V/. Brown, and you didn’t see the I. 0. U. signed, and can’t find anybody
who knows Jones’s autograph, and Jones won’t pay, the I. 0. U. will be of
no use to you in the county court, except to make the judge laugh. He will,
however, allow you to prove the consideration, and as, of course, you won’t
be prepared to do anything of the sort, he will, if you ask him politely, adjourn
the hearing for a week, when you can produce the coalheavers who delivered
the article, and thus gain a glorious victory.

2724. Apprentices. — By the statute 5 Eliz. cap. 4, it is enacted that, in
cases of ill-usage by masters towards apprentices, or of neglect of duty by
apprentices, the complaining party may apply to a justice of the peace, who
may make such order as equity may require. If, for want of conformity on
the part of the master, this cannot be done, then the master may be bound
to appear at the next sessions. Authority is given by the act to the justices
in sessions to discharge the apprentice from his indentures. They are also
empowered, on proof of misbehaviour of the apprentice, to order him to be
corrected or imprisoned with hard labour.

2725. Husband and Wife. — Contrary to the vulgar opinion, second cousins,
as well as first, may legally marry. When married, a husband is liable for his
wife’s debts contracted before marriage. A creditor desirous of suing for such
a claim should proceed against both. It will, however, be sufficient if the
husband be served with process, the names of both appearing therein,
thus : — John Jones and Ann his wife. A married woman, if sued alone, may
plead her marriage, or, as it is called in law, coverture. The husband is
liable for debts of his wife contracted for necessaries while living with him.
If she voluntarily leaves his. protection, this liability ceases. He is also liable
for any debts contracted by her with his authority. If the husband have
abjured the realm, or been transported by a sentence of law, the wife is liable
during his absence, as if she were a single woman, for debts contracted
by her.

2726. In civil cases, a wife may'now give evidence on behalf of her husband ;
in criminal eases she can neither be a witness for or against her husband. The
case of assault by him upon her forms an exception to this rule.

2727. The law does’ not at this day admit the ancient principle of allowing
moderate correction by a husbaud upon the person of his wife. Although this
U said to have been anciently limited to the use of “a stick not bigger than

1108

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

the thumb,” this barbarity is now altogether exploded. lie may, notwith-
standing, as has been recently shown in the famous Agapemone case, kec|>
her under restraint, to prevent her leaving him, provided this be effected
without cruelty.

2728. By the Divorce and Matrimonial Causes Act, 1857, a wife deserted by
her husband may apply to a magistrate, or to the petty sessions, for an order
to protect her lawful earnings or property acquired by her after such desertion,
from her husband and his creditors. In this case it is indispensable that such
order shall, within ten days, be entered at the county court of the district
within which she resides. It will be seen that the basis of an application for
such an order is desertion. Consequently, where the parties have separated
by common consent, such an order cannot he obtained, any previous cruelty
or misconduct on the husband’s part notwithstanding.

2729. When a husband allows his wife to invest money in her own name in
a savings-bank, and he survives her, it is sometimes the rule of such establish-
ments to compel him to take out administration in order to receive such money,
although it is questionable whether such rule is legally justifiable. Widows
and widowers pay no legacy-duty for property coming to them through their
deceased partners.

2730. Receipts for sums above £2 should now be given upon penny stamps.
A bill of exchange may nevertheless be discharged by an indorsement stating
that it has been paid, and this will not be liable to the stamp. A receipt is
not, as commonly supposed, conclusive evidence as to a payment. It is only
what the law terms primA facie evidence ; that is, good until contradicted or
explained. Thus, if A sends wares or merchandise to B, with a receipt, as a
hint that the transaction is intended to be for ready money, and B detain the
receipt without paying the cash, A will be at liberty to prove the circumstances
and to recover his claim. The evidence to rebut the receipt must, however,
be clear and indubitable, as, after all, written evidence is of a stronger nature
than oral testimony.

2731. Books of Account. — A tradesman’s books of account cannot be
received as evidence in his own behalf, unless the entries therein be proved to
have been brought under the notice of, and admitted to be correct by the other
party, as is commonly the case with the “pass-books” employed backwards
and forwards between bakers, butchers, and the like domestic traders, and
their customers. The defendant may, however, compel the tradesman to
produce his books to show entries adverse to his own claim.

2732. Wills. — The last proof of affection which wo can give to those left
behind, is to leave their worldly affairs in such a state as to excite neither
jealousy, nor anger, nor heartrendings of any kind, at least for the immediate
future. This can only be done by a just, clear, and intelligible disposal of
whatever there is to leave. Without being advocates for every man being his

LEGAL MEMORANDA.

1109

own lawyer, it is not to be denied that the most elaborately prepared wills have
been the most fruitful sources of litigation, and it has oven happened that
learned judges left wills behind them which could not be carried out. Except
in cases where the property is in land or in leases of complicated tenure, very
elaborate details are unnecessary ; and wo counsel no man to use words in
making his will of which he does not perfectly understand tho meaning and
import.

2733. All men over twenty-one years of age, and of sound mind, and all
unmarried women of like age and sanity, may by will bequeath their property
to whom they please. Infants, that is, all persons under twenty-one years of
age, and married women, except where they have an estate to their “ own
separate use,” are incapacitated, without the concurrence of the husband ; the
law taking the disposal of any property they die possessed of. A person bom
deaf and dumb cannot make a will, unless there is evidence that he could read
and comprehend its contents. A person convicted of felony cannot make a
will, unless subsequently pardoned ; neither can persons outlawed ; but the
wife of a felon transported for life may make a will, and act in all respects as
if she were unmarried. A suicide may bequeath real estate, but personal
property is forfeited to the crown.

2734. Except in the case of soldiers on actual service, and sailors at sea, every
will must be made in writing. It must be signed by the testator, or by
some other person in his presence, and at his request, and the signature must
be made or acknowledged in the presence of two or more witnesses, who are
required to be present at the same time, who declare by signing that the will
was signed by the testator, or acknowledged in their presence, and that they
signed as witnesses in testator’s presence.

2735. By the act of 1852 it was enacted that no will shall be valid unless
signed at the foot or end thereof by the testator, or by some person in his
presence, and by his direction ; but a subsequent act proceeds to say that
every will shall, as far only as regards the position of the signature of the
testator, or of the person signing for him, be deemed valid if the signature
shall be so placed at, or after, or following, or under, or beside, or opposite
to the end of the will, that it shall bo apparent on the face of it that tho
testator intended to give it effect by such signature. Under this clause, a
will of several sheets, all of which were duly signed, except the last one, has
been refused probate ; while, on the other hand, a similar document has
been admitted to probate where the last sheet only, and none of the other
sheets, was signed. In order to be perfectly formal, however, each separate
sheet should be numbered, signed, and witnessed, and attested on the last
sheet. This witnessing is an important act : tho witnesses must subscribe it
in the presence of the testator and of each other ; and by their signature they
testify to having witnessed the signature of the testator, he being in sound
mind at the time. Wills made under any kind of coercion, or even impor-

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT.

tunity, may become void, being contrary to the wishes of the testator.
Fraud or imposition also renders a will void, and where two wills made by
tho same person happen to exist, neither of them dated, the maker of the
wills is declared to have died intestate.

2736. A will may always be revoked and annulled, but only by burning or
entirely destroying tho writing, or by adding a codicil, or making a subse-
quent will duly attested ; but as the alteration of a will is only a revocation
to the extent of the alteration, if it is intended to revoke the original will
entirely, such intention should be declared, — no merely verbal directions can
revoke a written will ; and the act of running the pen through the signatures,
or down the page, is not sufficient to cancel it, without a written declaration
to that effect signed and witnessed.

2737. A will made before marriage is revoked thereby.

2738. A codicil is a supplement or addition to a will, either explaining or
altering former dispositions ; it may be written on the same or separate
paper, and is to bo witnessed and attested in the same manner as the original
document.

2739. Witnesses. — Any persons are qualified to witness a will who can
write their names ; but such witness cannot be benefitted by the will. If a
legacy is granted to the persons witnessing, it is void. The same rule applies
to the husband or wife of a witness ; a bequest made to either of these is
void.

2740. Form of Wiles. — Form is unimportant, provided the testator’s
in tention is clear. It should commence with his designation ; that is, his name
and surname, place of abode, profession, or occupation. The legatees should
also be clearly described. In leaving a legacy to a married woman, if no
trustees are appointed over it, and no specific directions given, “ that it is
for her sole and separate use, free from the control, debts, and incumbrances
of her husband,” the husband will be entitled to the legacy. In the
same manner a legacy to an unmarried woman will vest in her husband after
marriage, unless a settlement of it is made on her before marriage.

2741. In sudden emergencies a form may be useful, and the following has
been considered a good one for a death-bed will, where tho assistance of a
solicitor could not be obtained ; indeed, few solicitors can prepare a will on
the spur of the moment : they require timo and legal forms, which arc by no
means necessary, before they can act.

I, A. B., of No. 10, , Street, in the city of [gentleman, builder, or

grocer, as the case may lie,] being of Bound mind, thus publish and declure my last
will and testament. Revoking and annulling all former dispositions of my property, I
give and bequeath as follows : — to my son J. B,, of , I give and bequeath the stun

LEGAL MEMORANDA.

1111

of . to my daughter U., the wife of J., of , I give and bequeath the sum of

[if’intended for her own use, add, “ to her sole and separate use, free from the

control, debt9, and incumbrances other husband”]], both in addition to any sum or same
of money or other property they have before had from me. All the remaining property
I die possessed of I leave to my dear wife M. B., for her sole and separate use during

her natural life, together with my house and furniture, situate at No. 10, Street,

aforesaid. At her death, I desire that the said house shall be sold, with all the goods
and chattels therein [or, I give and bequeath the said house, with all the goods and

chattels therein, to ], and the money realized from the sale, together with that in

which my said wife had a life-interest, I give and bequeath in equal moieties to my son

and daughter before named. I appoint my dear friend T. S., of — — , and T. B., of ,

together with my wife M. B., as executors to this my last will and testament.

Signed by A. B., this 10t,h day of October, 1861, in our presence,"]
both being present together, and both having signed as witnesses, V A. B.
in the presence of the testator : — J

T. S., Witness.

F. M., Witness.

It is to be observed that the signature of the testator after this attestation
has been signed by the_witnesses, is not a compliance with the act ; he must
sign first.

2742. Stamp-Duties. — In the case of persons dying intestate, when their
effects are administered to by their family, the stamp-duty is half as much
more as it would have been under a will. Freehold and copyhold estates are
now subject to a special impost on passing, by the Stamp Act of 1857.

2743. The legacy-duty only commences when it amounts to £20 and up-
wards ; and where it is not directed otherwise, the duty is deducted from
the legacy.

2744. You cannot compound for past absence of charity by bequeathing
land or tenements, or money to purchase such, to any charitable use, by your
last will and testament ; but you may devise them to the British Museum, to
either of the two universities of Oxford and Cambridge, to Eton, Win-
chester, and Westminster ; and you may, if so inclined, leave it for the aug-
mentation of Queen Anne’s bounty. You may, however, order your
executors to sell land and hand over the money received to any charitable
institution.

2745- lu making provision for a wife, state whether it is in lieu of, or in
addition to, dower.

2746. If you have advanced money to any child, and taken an acknowledg-
ment for it, or entered it in any book of account, you should declare whether
any legacy left by will is in addition to such advance, or whether it is to be
deducted from the legacy. 1

-747- A legacy left by will to any one would be cancelled by your leaving"
another legacy by a codicil to the same person, unless it is stated to be in
addition to the former bequest.

2748. Your entire estate is chargeable with your debts, except where the

1112

HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT. c#*.

real estate is settled. Let it bo distinctly stated out of which property, the
real or personal, they are paid, where it consists of both.

2749. Whatever is devised, let the intention be clearly expressed, and with-
out any condition, if you intend it to take effect.

2750. Attestation is not necessary to a will, as the act of witnessing is all
the law requires, and the will itself declares the testator to be of sound min i
in his own estimation ; but, wherever there arc erasures or interlineations,
one becomes necessary. No particular form is prescribed ; but it should state
that the testator either signed it himself, or that another signed it by his
request, or that he acknowledged the signature to be his in their presence,
both being present together, and signed as witnesses in his presence. When
there are erasures, the attestation must declare that— The words interlined
in the third line of page 4, and the erasure in the fifth line of page 6, having
been first made. These are the acts necessary to make a propei-ly- executed
will ; and, being simple in themselves and easily performed, they should bo
strictly complied with, and always attested.

2751. A witness may, on being requested, sign for testator; and he may
also sign for his fellow-witness, supposing he can only make his mark',
declaring that he does so ; but a husband cannot sign for his wife, either as
testator or witness, nor can a wife for her husband.

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Full text of "The book of household management; comprising information for the mistress ... Also, sanitary, medical, & legal memoranda; with a history of the origin, properties, and uses of all things connected with home life and comfort"

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